Help - Schaublin electrical problem || RotarySMP

[@davidedwards9157]

US went metric when it discovered nobody could afford an ounce of coke.

[@RotarySMP]

LMAO!! Best answer :)

[@InssiAjaton]

What I heard was that US is going metric -- inch by inch. But hey! US actually was the very first one adopting a small part of the metric system, before even the French. Can you figure out what part it was? Hint: The British Pound was until recently 20 Shillings. Yes, the US money was 1 Dollar = 100 Cents before anybody else chose the decimal system. Now the funny thing is US wants to be also the last one to adopt the rest of the decimal system. Only problem - Myanmar is so stubborn, also wanting to be the last one to discard the Imperial System.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Nope just 8 balls 😂

[@etherealbolweevil6268]

Ah! The 70's - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metric_Conversion_Act

[@Azlehria]

​@@Yy-ig6fmWe just cheated and rebased our customary units on metric definitions. So we are a metric country - indirectly. 😏

[@SandBoxJohn]

One of the reasons why I enjoy viewing your content is because I never know what subject of the content will be

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks John. You and me both :)

[@Ivor_Nastyboil]

There's nothing better than sitting back on a Sunday afternoon with a mug of coffee and a large slice of cake and watching someone else work. Ahhh, the little pleasures in life!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for sharing your time :)

[@ScreamingDoom]

14:23 - Technically speaking, the US was one of the original signers of the Metre Convention, also known as the Treaty of the Metre. So the USA has been theoretically metric since 20th May, 1875. Which makes it even more insane that metric is so poorly applied today.

[@RotarySMP]

In theory, there is no difference be theory and practice, in practice there is. :)

[@claeswikberg8958]

god damn it Dave!

[@RotarySMP]

Nico will sort him out :)

[@GeoffTV2]

Thanks for the variety mash-up vid, I enjoyed it as always - Heather.

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you enjoyed it! Heather. Thanks for the feedback.

[@petergamache5368]

When troubleshooting relays, an oscilloscope can be tremendously useful. If you suspect back EMF spikes are causing your problems, set a scope to trigger on the falling edge of the relay signal, then look at the waveform. Another tip: make sure suppression diodes are close to the coils that cause the troublesome spikes. Placing diodes at the other end of a long wire run permits EMF spikes to affect other signal lines via induction as they travel back to the diode.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your tips Peter.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Mark, Good show today... Top tip on putting the grooves on the inside of the casting flask to help retain the sand, I have never heard that mentioned before, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Paul. It is nice and fast if you puit the grooves in first, before cutting the board to length, or ripping it.

[@adagioleopard6415]

We had the same issue with our CNC where the USB port got a voltage spike when the spindle started. I solved it with a clip on ferrite bead. Theyre cheap and easy to install. I'd try looping the wire through it a few times if there's enough slack.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks, I'll have to look up how to size ferrite beads.

[@adagioleopard6415]

@@RotarySMP the size isn't super crucial. Just as long as th wire fits through the hole.

[@RotarySMP]

@@adagioleopard6415 Thanks.

[@MrSchorschschorsch]

Since your hall sensors crap out even when you manually actuate the contactors, it's not a problem stemming from the contactor's back EMF, but rather from the motor. I'd suggest trying different contactors. They might be burned up and are creating excessive sparking when they have to break the motor current.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. That makes sense. Does that mean that the spike in the 400V cabling is induceing the trigger in the Hall sensor wiring?

[@graealex]

@@RotarySMP Possible, especially if they are routed in parallel to 24V cables without shielding.

[@burningdieselproduction5498]

Good point. Might try to shield the power cables.

[@RotarySMP]

@@graealex All the Schaublin cables are shielded, and I reused them up to my electrical panel. I have some unshielded wires on the electrical panel, and need to check whether I have the those hal sensor wires in the same cable channels as the 3ph wires. Thanks. Good tip.

[@gregorgombac5302]

@@RotarySMP That's a very very good point When the contactor is opened the current running to the motor must flow somewhere

[@yvinddahl1303]

Shielded cables, segregation, and perhaps additional relays for the contactor circuit. Normally for offshore equipment we use 230v coils on motor contactors to prevent EMC noise. Bet you could find Stahl cableglands where you live, they make some nice ones for terminating shielded cables. Also you could consider galvanic seperation of your 24v.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tips.

[@milloons2847]

The Siemens 3RT-thingy is indeed a suppressor of some kind but only to avoid frying the contacts of the relay driving the dc coil of the contactor. Noise suppression is a though one. Solutions may include shielding the sensor wiring, rerouting power and sensor wiring, snubber caps (100nF-ish) over the monitored sensor and on the io-board terminals. Perhaps monitor the 24v rail on a scope to see what happens on this rail when switching the contactor(s). The above with some educated guessing are the fastest way out imho. It's a rabbit hole, can of worms, ... I cross my fingers so everything works out for you 🙂

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your tips. I appreciate all the support.

[@TheDistur]

I like the job board. Good way to keep track.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. It is helpful and sometimes depressing in equal measures.

[@MikelNaUsaCom]

lol... I didn't even get to the garage again this weekend... spent most of the time in bed sleeping... for whatever reason, I was tired. That and I was trying to get up the gumption to do some cleaning in my dining room, which I've turned into a little workshop, because I can. It's been accumulating tools, which need to find a home and so I need to spend some time organizing it. =D Happy Sunday!

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you had a chilled out weekend Mike.

[@jimdean7335]

If you are operating the relay by the mechical overide, the coil in that particular relay is not being energized/de-energized, so any inductive kick is likely being caused by what ever load the contacts are feeding. I have an old Craftsman band saw, called a snowflake, that has metric bearings in it. It was built in late 1930’s. So the answer is “before that”…..😊

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Jim. That is interesting that metric bearings crept in that early.

[@durkee8713]

Haha the “Dave from California” made me do a double take for a second but I’m subscribed and I’m sure I’ve watched about 95% of your videos.

[@RotarySMP]

Just a guess, Californias population is large enough to trigger a whole gaggle of Davids :) Thanks for watching.

[@wizrom3046]

40yr electronics guy here, try to separate the motor wiring from the sensor wiring. I always run caps across hall sensor outputs, I suggested this to you in a previous vid I think. A 0.1uF monolithic type cap, or polyester cap, will be fine. Put it at the receiving end of the sensor wiring from hall output terminal to gnd where the sensor wire goes into the receiver board. With bad noise problems you might want to go up to 0.47uF. It is also a good idea to run power caps ie 1000uF electros on the power rails, for the 5v and 24v rails. Basically, anywhere a module is powered from 5v or 24v put a big electro cap on the + and gnd terminals where the power wires enter that module. I have caps like this on every module. And, always try to get big motor power wires away from sensor wires! It might look neat with all the wires cable tied together but is a nightmare for noise. Coupled noise is the inverse square of distance so doubling the distance between cables, (even if its just another half inch) gives 1/4 of the noise. Some foam blocks between wiring can do wonders.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for those tips. It takes me a while for these things to get through to my brain. I'll check after the MotoGP, but am pretty sure I didn't segregate the 3PH and Hall sensor within the cabinet.

[@LesNewell]

Yes, my first thought was to add capacitors across the halls.

[@graealex]

Yeah, it's probably noise from the 3ph affecting 24V cables running nearby. I would avoid caps though, only as a last resort, as it can introduce other problems. Especially big power caps on the power rails. That should only be done after reading what capacity the PSUs actually can tolerate. Because they obviously already have caps on the secondary side, and at startup will act as a short-circuit for the PSU.

[@foffu]

I've no experience with machine tools, but on other projects with motors and sensors I've found that lowering the impedance of sensor receiver can fix problems with suprious signals from sensors. I agree that a capacitor at the controller end might help. Also try a resistor between the signal wires at the controller end - say 1k ish.

[@RotarySMP]

@@foffu Thanks for the tip Iain.

[@steinovevikeb6004]

A lot of doall machines where rebadged European machines. Steve Summers has a Swedish Strands drillpress and a Spanish milling machine which are rebadged as doall. I can't remember if he has mentioned anything about his doall bandsaw, but from your measurements it appears to also be European.

[@RotarySMP]

This is not a rebadged European design. It is a DoAll 16-SFP, which is an american model. I can't imagine them making similar but metric gearboxes to the US ones. When I first saw metric bearings, I thought that the Belgian army machine shop might have just modified the bosses for metrix bearings, but he shaft spacing is original. The Gears are 11DP, 14.5PA so it looks like DoAll did a profile shift to match to a metric shaft spacing of 120mm. Wierd.

[@ObsidianShadowHawk]

Hey, it's a Falcon 2000! That's the best bit of gear to ever come out of France. Great airframe!

[@RotarySMP]

Good spotting :)

[@tapiorautio457]

Here are couple of thoughts for the EMI issue you are seeing: Since motors are very inductive things by nature, they may induce large EMF spikes when disconnected with a hard disconnect. (like contactor here) Thus they may require some kind of snubber circuit adjanced to the contactor itself, and afaik some specialized motor contactors should have this kind of snubber included. (not really an expert on these, my profession involves much smaller currents and voltages) Also I have seen very strong suggestions, that motor wires should almost alwaysd bew shielded cables, even when not driven by a VFD, by purely EMI point of view, but this may be somewhat overkill in most cases. There is also ferrite clamps that can be clipped around singal and power wires to filter higher frequency interference, but I am not sure if they would help in this case. Finally if nothing else works, the signals that are receiving the interference could be filtered, this can be done either analogically (RC-filter to input) or digitally, one would think, that Linux-CNC would have some kind of debouncing function for iinputs to avoid this kind of issues. (not really familiar with Linux-CNC) What would be interesting to see is, an oscilloscope picture of the signal which is tripped by the motor, to see how long of a pulse the controller sees, to determine if filtering this signal would even be feasible.

[@tapiorautio457]

And also one furhter thought: Are these Hall effect (?) signal wires routed how close to variator adjustment motor wires? Distance is usually best way (when applicable) to mitigate interference between different different "domains" in electrical systems.

[@RotarySMP]

A lot of good advice there. I definitely ran some of that signal wiring parallel to the 3Ph variator wires. I am just collecting al the good tips, and will go and apply them once the Moto GP is over.

[@gregorgombac5302]

@@RotarySMP Yes, voltage spikes caused by the contactor opening can cause a lot of capacitively coupled noise to surrounding wires

[@possumsolutions]

I came here to echo this. Some sort of snubber circuit should help. I had an issue with small spikes from relays at one point. Snubbers completely solved it.

[@RotarySMP]

@@possumsolutions Thanks Jarrett

[@MF175mp]

Inch has also been defined by the metric system for over 100 years. By C.E.Johansson initially, later followed by official definitions

[@RotarySMP]

I was mostly surprised that the DP11 gear set had a profile shift to match a 120mm shaft spacing. That the bearings were metric was less of a surprise.

[@bradthayer6782]

Actually, fun fact, the US effectively went metric in I think the 1920s. The inch, foot and pound are defined in terms of their metric equivalent. That’s why inch is precisely 2.54 cm. We just express the metric units in a funny way.

[@RotarySMP]

Nice one Brad. :)

[@LCalleja]

Grate video as always although most of it was top-secret. I also have a habit of starting too many projects at the same time but getting a bit better at finishing them all now.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Luke. Look forward to sharing that secret :)

[@melgross]

It’s kind of interesting regarding metric here in the USA. Back in ‘66, Congress said that the USA should move to metric as soon as possible for the benefits to schools, manufacturing and trade. It’s been a long slog. Oh, by the way, that was not in 1966, it was 1866. So a long slog indeed. Machines and some other products for some time have had metric parts where they would be needed to be replaced after time when they were exported to metric countries. But industry takes time to convert. In the UK for example, there are still machines not only part metric and part inch, but also using Whiteworth threads, for some reason and even BS threads.

[@RotarySMP]

RR had a royal dispensation to keep using Whitworth, at least on the military engines. I worked a bit on the RR Viper 680. Nightmare!

[@melgross]

@@RotarySMP I can imagine.

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good video RotarySMP

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for watching.

[@theromihs]

I don't have much experience with high voltage systems, but that looks like a spike caused by the back EMF from the motor. If you are seeing the same fault when activating the relays manually or electrically, then the problem is not related to the relay coil back-EMF (which those diode modules eliminate). You will need to figure out how to isolate the spike caused by the motor. - Run a shielded cable between the motor and the relays - Find a suitable diode suppressor for the motor I think that the shielded cable will sort the issue out.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. The cable is shielded from the motor to the control cabinet, but I ran unshielded within the cabinet, and also ran the signal wire parallel to it, in the same cable channel. I'll move the signal wires away as a first step.

[@gorak9000]

Because he's running the motor in both directions, you can't use a diode snubber at the motor, but you can use a capacitive snubber. You see lots of small DC motors with ceramic capacitors soldered across the motor terminals right at the motor to dissipate the back EMF of the rotational energy in the rotor when the motor is stopped.

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

We had a time in the 70s when an attempt was made to go metric so every once in awhile I’ll see a drawing from that period where they’re using metric units.

[@RotarySMP]

I was surprised at the metric features of a 1957 Doall.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

You should make yourself a feather board for the table saw so you don't need to use a push stick to hold it to the rip fence. 👍👍

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for reminding me. I already had the STL downloaded and just need to print it.

[@LetsJeep]

From my experience, the spike snubber is really only required when driving a relay from a semiconductor output. Since this alarm still occurs when manually activating the relay, we can surmise the error is not likely induced from a coil kickback. You might try some Ferrites on signal wires to choke noise. Low voltage Hall sensors can be very sensitive to noise. Having them on pull-up resistors to the inputs helps here when pulled low by the sensor. Generally speaking with control signals, there are dirty wire ducts and clean wire ducts. keeping signal wires out of the same ducts as inductive load switching ducts. Also avoid parallel runs(wires zip tide together) with signals next to power switching conductors. You can install arc suppressors filters across the contacts, although that protects the contacts from arc wear, I don't think it does much for EMI.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for you inputs. I think my lack of separation in the cable channels is probably a good place to start :/

[@LetsJeep]

@RotarySMP As you probably already know, If you do decide to go with shielded cables on your input signal wires. Only ground the shield at the signal source end.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. Those cables are all original Schaublin shielded cables, but to the control panel. Then it is my mess :)

[@jimsvideos7201]

Nice bit of work getting the variator under control!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Jim, so far it is only electrical connection. I really need to work out how to program the connection between an Sxxx speed commend and those three physical components.

[@Gobhoblin126]

@@RotarySMP It will probably help with programming if you have some sort of feedback on the variator position, at least run the end stops into some inputs, or even better measure the position with something like a potentiometer. Without feedback you will have to "home" it on power-up by running it one direction long enough that it must have hit an end stop and then jut trust it stays where you put it from there. If my reasoning is correct the gear ratio to position relationship of the variator is very non-linear so you may need closed loop position feedback to get any hope of accurate speed control. Just my 2 cents.

[@RotarySMP]

@@Gobhoblin126 Thanks for your thoughts. I was uncertain whether to use the end switches hard wired into the control circuit (which I have done), or feed into LinuxCNC and use it the ladder. I may do that. My ideas so far are to command the variator open loop, with 4x "gear ratios" set with dead reckoning of 1 sec between each. The VFD will be closed loop and compensate for the variator variation. Having said that, I still have little idea how to implement that, given Sxxx speed command words within LinuxCNC:

[@timhatch1299]

In my limited experience refurbishing older American tools, they use metric bearings more often than not in 50's and 60's. On machines with the original bearings I find primarily New Departure (made in U.S.A.) and SKF (made in Sweden). There are some really nonsense ones that are still made like a 6202-5/8 which is metric except for the I.D. 😣 I was expecting an arbitrary date in the future for the metric transition though, like the year 3000.

[@RotarySMP]

Thank might be a little too early Tim :)

[@HD-wp5le]

Didn't read all the comments. But I agree on the ones who advise to seperate power and signal wires. Have been building MCC cabinets as daily work. And always tried to keep the power wires away from the signal wires. Espsecially power wire/cables from frequency controllers and servo's. As for coilsnubbers siemens also has VDR units, at the standard 24Vdc relais they build them in. Seeing your video when you manual activate the contactors, the source seems to be in the power circuit for the motor, could also be the feed line to the contactors. There might be an other solution which doesn't take the problem but supress the the noise. Don't know your hall sensor setup but you might at a pull down resistor to the hall sensor input. This way the sensor needs to put out some current to get the input signal at its level. Check hallsensor data on current, use 1/2 to 2/3 of the nominal current. If you use a pulldown resistor, same goes for the pullup version, then you need a certain amount of power (voltage x current) to activate the input. Most case this works to reduce the effect of noise. Keep going like your video's although I'am not subcribed follower.....

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your detailed inputs for trouble shooting this. I'll feedback once I have got to the bottom of it.

[@steveggca]

Hi Mark after reading later comments about the fault caused by the contactors opening , I realized that it completely fell out of my mind that manual operation also caused the fault🥴.the contacts opening up will spark, possibly also causing interferance. similar to the RC network for the coil, there is a part, Siemens 3RT19 16-1PB3 Interference Suppression Module(obsolete) or 3RT2916-1PA2 (current) that will stop the sparking. While I'm spending your money😁 a schaffner EMC/EMI line filter in front of the 24vdc power supplies might not hurt either. It also occured to me after learning that DoAll rebadging some swedish machines, it would make sense that they might also have bought some components from them , such as an all metric gearbox

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your input on this. I'll give feedback in a future video once I get it sorted. I doubt the gearbox came fro the Swede's, as it is exactly the same design as is used in all the US sourced Do-All contour machines.

[@steveggca]

@@RotarySMP looking forward to seeing what the actual solution is , although semi informed speculation is fun 😊

[@RotarySMP]

@@steveggca Rather than just fix it, I am trying to make a video showing that I am following the commenters advice, adn working through it systematically. The set up and filming is slowing me down a lot, and yesterday I had to watch YT videos to relearn how to use my osci.

[@davidsamways]

I think the reason your DoAll bandsaw is made to metric dimensions is because it's possibly a clone of a German machine. I can't remember the brand now, but when I was looking for a vertical bandsaw some years ago I noticed that a certain German machine was identical in all but name to the DoAll machines. Of course, it could be the other way around, but metric dimensions in a 1950s machine point to European manufacture to me - even us Brits weren't using the metric system in 1957.

[@RotarySMP]

I think the 16" DoAll contour machine is the original DoAll design from the 1930's. My experience would be that the US was much more flexible on using metric bearings, whereas the UK remained committed to their flavour of imperial till they weren't :)

[@unclehunty]

We need to hear from Dave.

[@RotarySMP]

Nico will sort him out :)

[@steveggca]

Hi Mark module 3rt1915-1eh00(obsolete) is a surge supressor .Typically for this problem, as others have mentioned an RC (resistor -capacitor) is used 3RT1916-1CB00 appears to be the correct part ,and cuttent.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for you knowledge on that.

[@vincei4252]

Lots of cool little jobs done, bravo. I won't lie, for a few seconds I thought you were putting the empty bottles of Pinot in the washing machine! Me: Why ? 😂

[@RotarySMP]

LMAO :) I like that Vince,

[@nicolaspillot5789]

@vincei4252 i second this, never underestimate the small jobs. after all, a big project is only the sum of it's micro parts. keep going mark !

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the encouragement Niclas. It helps.

[@louiel8711]

Most sealed bearings are metric, got a 50's drill press all the bearings and even the electric motor bearings are metric. I inherited the machine from it's original owner, im the first person to disassemble it cleaned it up relubed and painted it.

[@RotarySMP]

The DoAll has open bearings, as the gearbox has an oil pump. I just through in the sealed bearings when I jumper it. Even more surprising for me than the metric bearing journals, was the 65.5mm shaft spacing. The gears are 11DP, and have a profile shift, to fit that spacing.

[@millwrightrick1]

The standard for all ball bearings is metric except when the are designated as inch sizes. Then the bearing number will be 6203-8 which means it has a half inch bore rather than a 15mm bore.

[@RotarySMP]

@@millwrightrick1 I would have expected Inch bearings in a 1957 US iconic machine like the DoAll.

[@millwrightrick1]

@@RotarySMP In 2000 I got a new millwright position in an auto parts factory. They had a number of 1930s vintage multispindle lathes. Even then the bearings were metric in those old American Acme Gridley screw machines.

[@GeorgeGeorgalis]

That wood looks like Poplar, it is a common fast growing hardwood in the US, frequently used for pallets. Oh, and there are a lot of hits for poplar stinks....

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks, that seems about right. Like a slightly more dense balsa wood :)

[@lumotroph]

Nice math rock at the beginning mate!

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you liked it!

[@CorollaGTSSRX]

You should make a grbr file and have those PCBs made :) it's really satisfying to get custom PCBs

[@RotarySMP]

I am tempted, but that would be another rabbit hole requiring me to learn it from scratch, and I really dont have the time. I like that you can get perf boards with the same pin connections as the bread boards, and transfer a design straight across.

[@HansWurst12345]

perhabs separating the motor wiring from the control wiring (only 90° crossings allowed, no parallel wiring), or a bigger pull up / down on the hall effect. Any way to set a bigger de bounce in linux cnc?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Hans, Those are good ideas. LinuxCNC can debounce,. I need to look into that if nothing else works.

[@HansWurst12345]

​@@RotarySMP oh yea, i meant bigger resistor as in lower resistance, higher wattage. I suspect the ones present on the i/o board are in the 50 kilo to meg ohm range and inside the chip itself. What you can put on there depends on what current the hall effect can source without being overloaded (if you find a datasheet). Lower value means you need a substantial current to reach the high signal threshold voltage. But software debounce might be the first thing i'd do, as its the least effort

[@andypughtube]

Steve Summers has a fair bit of Do-All kit, and some seems to have been bought-in from Europe. I think he said his mill is Spanish, and I think that the drills might be Swedish.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Andy, I know DoAll rebadged a lot of gear, including 600 group lathes for the US market, but the 16" contour saw is the original DoAll product from the 30's, and this gearbox is the same one used on all of them. The gearset is 11DP. I found it surprising that they used a profile shift to give the 65.5mm shaft spacing. I would have expected some imperial shaft spacing with imperial gears, even if the bearings were metric.

[@Izidor1111]

I have worked on ships and electrical guidelinies are very strict. It is forbidden to wire directly output signals of the PLC/VFD to the lamp or contactor that is large inductive load. Output of PLC/VFD has to go on the small relay first, and contact of the relay must be wired on the contactor. On the relay there must be varistor module. It is kind of galvanic isolation. On ships on the power wires of the PLC, you must put filter. Maybe this helps you.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your experience. I am collecting all the tip, and will go and try to implement them after the motogp.

[@Izidor1111]

@@RotarySMP Schneider has pluggable diodes for relays that will not allow the EMF going back to the source(PLC/VFD). Schneider has few modules: pluggable varistors, flywheel diodes, RC circuits... what to use depends on the voltage that is used AC, DC, 230V, 24V... One more good thing for using relays to engage contactors is that if you have short circuit, you will burn the relay, not PLC/VFD. You will have cost of 4€ and downtime 2 min🤗 On ship that is important you do not have spare PLC/VFD for every machine.

[@RotarySMP]

@@Izidor1111 I considered my relay board a kludge. Maybe it was clever ? :)

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Was that machine produced in the US? I don't know about Do All but Bridgeport and others made machines in the UK... Also check some of those threads and see if they are metric threads. The auto industry used bolts with metric heads and standard threads in the 80s. And yes I have had many weekends where nothing constructive was done other than to waste material... And yes I have a 4x8 sheet of marker board and and other big piece that I have not mounted. I have had them for 20 years or so... So no lists for me...

[@RotarySMP]

My mate in NZ has a british Bridgeport, but the Dall were built there in 1957, it would have gotten BSW and BA threads :) The threads seem to be all UNC, except for the ones the Belgian army stripped and helicoiled with metric. Of the four mounting holes for the gearbox, only one was still UNC. I am not sure about the lists. The seem to depress rather than motivate me. :)

[@encorespod2135]

snubbers, twisted pairs, LC stuff on the DC things, usual stuff

[@RotarySMP]

None of that is usual for this mechanic :)

[@ferrumignis]

Presumably the variator motor is an AC induction motor? If so then snubbers across the contactor contacts may be useful, typically this will be a 0.1uF capacitor in series with a 100R resistor. These can be bought as integrated components e.g. search for RE1201 on Farnell. These slow down the rapid rise in voltage when the contactor disconnects, not only helping to avoid coupling this pulse into adjacent circuits but also prolonging contact life. Do note that these will permit a small leakage current to flow when the contactor is off (due to the reactance of the capacitor), so don't be fiddling with the motor wiring while the system is powered but contactors are open. Physically locating the motor wiring away from any logic level circuits is also a good idea.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tip.

[@andypughtube]

Consider adding a software debounce to your limit switch inputs. 10ms delay in tripping them shouldn't matter, and LinuxCNC shouldn't ;et you hit them anyway.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Andy, Spumco also gave me that tip. I will try to address the voltage spike, and the cross talk between the systems electrically first, and use Debounce on whatever remains.

[@andrewwilgress4100]

U.S. is metric but coverts everything back to SAE for ponds.

[@RotarySMP]

I suspected that as well Andrew. :)

[@gregorgombac5302]

Hey Those snubbers DO NOT act as flyback diodes clamping the voltage to their clamp voltage and not to zero, hence you are feeding back a negative 12 V, or something like that Try adding a flyback diode to each contactor, and then as said by the others maybe even to the gear reduction motor But add the flyback to the contactors immediately Wrong as noted by MrSchorsschorss

[@LesNewell]

There is a very good reason why they don't use diodes. Flyback diodes slow down the rate of decay of the magnetic field, making the contactor switch slower. This can cause contact arcing. If you don't believe me, try a decent sized DC contactor with and without a flyback diode. You can hear the difference.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Gregor.

[@RotarySMP]

@@LesNewell Thanks Les, I will collect all the trouble shooting advice, and get onto it after the MotoGP.

[@gregorgombac5302]

@@LesNewell The circuit must be capable to carry the coil current after switch off anyways. There are cases where the flyback is harmful but other measures must be used to perform the same task. I would try with a flyback diode, cause currents here do not pose the risk of contacts welding, and the circuit clearly can't handle not having one

[@LesNewell]

@@gregorgombac5302 I think you have misunderstood my point. When the coil is disconnected it has a fair amount of energy stored in the magnetic field. That energy has to go somewhere. If you use a diode the energy is dissipated slowly in the diode and coil resistance. This is good from an EMC perspective but it means the magnetic field collapses slowly. This means the contacts release slowly, which risks arcing at the contacts. A snubber on the other hand allows the voltage to rise rapidly but at a controlled rate and dissipates most on the energy quickly in it's resistor. If you have no snubber or diode the voltage rapidly rises to a very high level until it is high enough to create a spark that dissipates the energy and radiates a lot of interference. If it's switched by a transistor the voltage gets high enough to reach the transistor's breakdown voltage. At that point the transistor dissipates the energy, possibly dying in the process.

[@LongnoseRob]

Get out the Oscilloscpe and check the 24V for spikes.. Maybe it would be good to have a small EMI-Filter in front of the contactors supply line

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Robert. Would my

[@LongnoseRob]

@@RotarySMP I think it might be a bit too slow, but would give it a try anyway

[@RotarySMP]

@@LongnoseRob Thanks Rob.

[@sanasilviu5408]

I have a Bridgeport milling machine ,its from Italy all the external screws are metric but inside gearbox are imperial...

[@RotarySMP]

It was probably sponsered by Snap-On :)

[@sanasilviu5408]

:)@@RotarySMP

[@FullSpeed_only]

Have you tried switching the Contactors off without them being connected to Power and then without your Load on them? Just to see if it’s actually a Issue with the 400V in the Contactors or the Motor. Generally your Cabinet seems like you could add a Metal Sheet between the upper Mains Section and the lower Low Voltage Part. (Clough42 had to add Ferrite Rings on his VFD Cables. But this sounds like you need Shielding and maybe something to clamp the Spikes from the Motor better.)

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your advice Tobias. I am collecting all the tips, and will get int othe trouble shooting after the MotorGP races are over :)

[@HuskyMachining]

I run a job shop in the states and 90% of the drawings I get are in metric and they are all locally designed. I even get military orders sometimes with drawings from the 60's that are all in metric. I just got used to knowing both systems. although I think large distances more easily in metric. I still think in "thou and tenths" on the smaller scale

[@RotarySMP]

I did my apprenticeship in Metric NZ, but since A/C are still mostly imperial, the vise we had to make in basic engineering was imperial. Since I learned to "feel" filling blocks of steel in thou, I also have an affinity for it. I also think thou and tenths are sized right for normal, and fine tolerances. 1/100thmm and µm are often too large and too fine.

[@HuskyMachining]

@@RotarySMP I completely agree that thou and tenths are decent quick terminology for the fine tolerances but for larger, mm cm and meters always made more sense to me but that probably comes form the decade or so I spent as a runner, for some reason the US uses metric for track and field but not much else for non machining people.

[@RotarySMP]

@@HuskyMachining NZ only went metric in the early 70's, so I grew up with my Dad speaking in feet and miles, and am pretty comfortable switching back and forth between them, except temp in Farenheit. Never got my head around that.

[@timogross8191]

What I never understand is why is 1/10 smaller than 1/1000 ? 🙂 Also there seems to be a big difference between ten thousands and a hundreds? Maybe because I have problems hearing the space :-). I do everything in 5/127 of an inch it is much easier.

[@jamesboulton2722]

There can be two sources for the spike. 1) induced into an adjacent wire next to the current carrying cable. 2) ground or ps spike from the coil inductor. In either case the first place I would look is the grounding looking for ground loops that could be causing the Hal sensor to false trigger. Or you could bias the hal sensor with a lower value resister. Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks James. I have. a toy Osci with about 10kHz. I am collecting all the excellent tips and will do the trouble shooting after the MotoGP. :)

[@jamesboulton2722]

@@RotarySMP The first step is to disconnect the load out of the contactor and trigger the coil. That will confirm if it’s the load or the coil. I suspect (big guess) the collapsing coil spiking into the ps rail via the flyback diodes as it’s a disconnect fault. You could check this with the oscilloscope in one shot trigger mode across the ps rail that powers the contactor coil to try and capture a spike when the coil disconnects. If it isn’t obviously that then it’ll almost certainly be a grounding issue - which can be ‘interesting’ to solve.

[@elanman608]

The add on snubber diodes could be across the relay coils rather than the contacts, you may need separate diodes on the motors themselves. Snubber diodes should be located as close to the relevant coil as possible.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks.

[@PeckhamHall]

The dead board looked like it had some fuses missing? the yellow things when you tested them.

[@RotarySMP]

Those are just the logic jumpers for active high or low. If non fitted, active high.

[@pycoed]

That wood could be Hemlock? It smells a bit like doggy doos, esp. when cut whilst damp. I remember years ago (decades!) doing a stud wall at home & taking my shoes off to check what I'd stepped in after I'd cut some wet 4X2's. Nothing on the shoes, but the cuts were the culprit .

[@RotarySMP]

This wood has been in my basement for a couple of years, and has the consistence of heavy balsa wood. I also tears out easily with the plane. I was thinking Poplar? I looked up the wood database, and it say "no characteristic odor for both species, so that was no help :)

[@stalkinghawk9244]

Similar to others, you could also use a few varistors. They short all voltages above a certain threshhold. you could use some on the 24v supplying the contactors (could also replace the diode suppressors with varistors) and you could theoreticly Put some on the contactors outputs however use fuses then vor each varistor. Might make sense to Just seperate all the wirings and maby use sone shilded cables.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for you tips. I will work though them all after the MotoGP.

[@Etheira]

Hmmm... how to kill Inductive spike from the contactor coil field collapse. Assuming you've already tried reverse diodes and snubber networks, then next steps are normally to see how your cable runs are arranged, and separate signal and power cable bundling where possible, then bypass and supress spikes at the sensor inputs. So in summary.. Step 1. Kill it where it lives. Diodes and snubbers. Step 2. Stop it getting out where it can cause problems,. Cable runs, shielding etc. Step 3. Stop it at the inputs. (esp high impedance inputs) Bypassing caps, ferrite beads and shielding. Good luck, these sort of problems can sometimes drive you nuts. Spikes of this type often have very fast rise time edges, and it becomes an RF coupling issue. So physical proximity of the various cables can be a factor.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tips and well structured approach. I definitely have signal and 3Ph wires running together in parallel in the control cabinet cable channel. I will separate them first.

[@flikflak24]

Flying in a A350-900 is like a dream compared to a A320-200/A320neo

[@RotarySMP]

Yeah, I have flown A350 long haul flights out to NZ. Incredibly quiet interior. The composite barrel sections damp sound very well.

[@flikflak24]

@@RotarySMP 350-900 total fav ( was on row 19 for 12 and a half hour witch was perfect ( munich germany to osaka japan)) but was stock on the back seat of a b767-300 for 14 hours and 20 min ( awake the hole time from tokyo japan to frankfurt germany )

[@anthonystermich6735]

A few years ago I discovered that the US went officially metric 100 years ago, only it was NEVER implemented. That was a surprise to me!

[@RotarySMP]

That "going metric" was just changing the definition of the inch from the length of Ben Franklins left thumb nail, to 25.4mm. Not much else was addressed it seems :)

[@gorak9000]

Your default wood screws there are pozi-drive? Or is that JIS with the 4 lines going to the points? I always get them confused as you hardly see either of them in north america, except when taking thins apart that are built elsewhere

[@RotarySMP]

These are from the hardware store. I dont think it even says on the box which of the various drive standards they conform to.

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

Wenn du den Schütz über den Handkontakt betätigst, ist das rein mechanisch, kann man zur Sicherheit auch im ausgeschaltetem Zustand durchklingeln. Also würde ich sagen, es liegt nicht an den Dioden, sondern daran dass es Motor irgendetwas induziert. Da du ja auch 5V Kreise hast, kann das durchaus irgendwelche Signale stören. Ich würde empfehlen ein geschirmtes Motorkabel zu verwenden und auch ggf. das Sensorkabel zu Schirmen was Probleme macht. Und auf die Verlegung achten, alles was Signal ist bestenfalls und deinen Antrieben getrennt verlegen.

[@RotarySMP]

Danke. Ich vermüte dass meine Verlegung sehr suboptimal was die Trennung betrifft.

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

@@RotarySMP Naja in einem optimalen Schaltschrank ist es halt so gemacht oder wenn wirklich große Antriebe verbaut sind. In der Praxis sieht’s so aus, dass du es in den Kanal packst wo Platz ist und den kürzesten Weg nimmst. Versuchsweise kannst du ja mal dein Sensorkabel und das Motorkabel fliegend mit genug Abstand verlegen. Schirmte Leitungen und EMV Verschraubungen sind nämlich auch nicht gerade preiswert, zum probieren. Da kostet eine M25 Verschraubung schonmal 10€ und die kann man nur einmal zu machen und dann war’s das.

[@RotarySMP]

@@Der_Edelpfuscher Ja, ich habe gestern mit der Troubshooting begonnen. Mussten aber YT videos schauen, um meine Osci wieder zu lernen :)

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

@@RotarySMP ganz wichtig, die Spitzen nicht unter Spannung wo anders dranklemmen, so hab ich schonmal ein Schweißgerät zu Elektroschrott gemacht😂

[@alexscarbro796]

How about running those modules temporarily from a bench supply to see if the problem disappears?

[@RotarySMP]

Do you mean the contactors?

[@burningdieselproduction5498]

Do a quick test with a diode. Take a 1N4007 diode and wire it across the coil. How do i send you the drawing?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks, my email is on the channel "About" page.

[@steveggca]

Oh and ballbearings in NA are (almost) always metric.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Steve. I was surprised that had already happened by 1957. Also that the Dp11 gear set have a profile shift to fit a 120mm shaft spacing.

[@boggisthecat]

The USA was one of the original signatories to the convention. It’s been metric ever since, but the general population aren’t aware of it.

[@RotarySMP]

Best to keep that a secret :)

[@pasterdaveheinl]

Try an MOV. Works great on these type if noise issue.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Dave.

[@Trevoroml]

Test the snubber modules on the side of the main contactors, failing that just test throwing a generic diode across the coil as a basic diode snubber

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tip.

[@toma.cnc1]

Ferrite doughnut around the motor wires might just be enough to stop that, easy to test. Wires at least once around the inside of the core.

[@RotarySMP]

What size ferrite would I need to source? It is a very low power motor. Like 60W.

[@toma.cnc1]

@@RotarySMP First i would disconnect the motor and test if just relays cause that. Any ferrite that you can loop motor wires once through should do, even old monitors have those around the cable, usually two per cable, printers, photocopiers, etc, just yank out whatever you can find and do a test.

[@RotarySMP]

@@toma.cnc1 Thanks. Good practical tip.

[@graealex]

The flyback diodes short out the voltage spike on the relay coils, yes. But what doesn't get mitigated is the motor itself suddenly getting de-energized. I assume that is causing some sort of transient on the 24V rail? Do the motors run on 24V (by the looks of 8:18 they do)?

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Alex, Which motos? The variator motor is 3Ph 400VAC.

[@graealex]

@@RotarySMP I misinterpreted the drawing - it shows the 24V coil of the contactor. Anyway for troubleshooting, I would remove the three phase output from the contactors, test again switching the variator motor. If the problem goes away, it's simply EMF from the 3ph variator motor. Then the question is whether it's a problem inside the cabinet, or outside. If outside, then use shielded cable outside the cabinet. I happen to have quite a large amount of four-wire shielded cabling lying around (3ph+PE, good quality from LAPP). Could send some over. Also always have the cable carrying 400V separate from any low-voltage signals like the end stop switches.

[@graealex]

@@RotarySMP Oh and if it is a problem inside the cabinet, you're going to be in a world of pain, cleaning up your cable routing to keep 400V and 24V as separate as possible.

[@RotarySMP]

@@graealex The Schaublin cabling I reused is all high quality and shielded. I didn't segrate 3 Ph from signal wires in my cable channel. Probably the cause :/ That is a big help, I will get into that trouble shootting... after the MotoGP :)

[@graealex]

@@RotarySMP That's unfortunate if the cables are already shielded outside, because that would have been the easy solution. Did you properly terminate the shields? Typically you leave about 2cm of shield, fold it back over the insulation, and then put copper tape around it, and then it gets put into a "shield clamp" when entering the cabinet, or better as close to the termination point inside the cabinet as possible, so it has a low-impedance towards the cabinets earthing. I think we talked about it a while ago when you started (when you installed the VFD I believe). Otherwise you might have to redo some of the 3ph wiring inside the cabinet, and again with shielded cables put into shield clamps screwed to the cabinet itself.

[@bitp1mp]

C'mon Dave!

[@RotarySMP]

Yeah really Dave, letting the team down :)

[@guidolamacchina6363]

Do you have an oscilloscope? Can you see the voltage spikes in the limit switches inputs? Sometimes to suppress spikes in the inputs a small capacitor may help...

[@RotarySMP]

I have a 10kHz toy Osci. I am collecting al the ideas provided, and will go and troubleshoot after the MotoGP :)

[@guidolamacchina6363]

@@RotarySMP should be enough to get a clue on what's going on... Connect the probe on the limit switch inputs while operating the contactor... (Mind the polarity... Ground signal of the osc probe is usually connected to the actual ground through the PE connector...)

[@RotarySMP]

@@guidolamacchina6363 Thanks for the tips. I was getting to that measurement yesterdaym but had forgotten how to set my Osci, and had to watch videos to relearn it.

[@guidolamacchina6363]

@@RotarySMP yeah... The most tricky part is to set the trigger at the right level, start to set it in the middle between and logic high of your limit switch... Normal mode not auto, otherwise you miss the event...

[@brianmunyon5669]

Since manually triggering the relay contacts is still causing the issue. Is there another relay/coil downstream?

[@RotarySMP]

No, those contactors directly control the motor windings.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

The USA had a "metric push" in the 1970s. It failed. No so many things have mixed measurements, a disaster in my job as in technical publications.

[@RotarySMP]

I was supprised to see the metric dimensions in this 1957 DoAll. I would have expected it to be pure inch, except for the Belgian army's repairs and maintenance.

[@bostedtap8399]

Was the DoAll made under licence in Europe ?, im assuming the 13mm A/F were metric thread, M8 coarse. I see many have suggested screened and shielded cable which is good practice, earthing, and better suppression on relay or contactors is problematic, flyback diode has zero suppression, BUT you manually operated the contactors, so this may be a red herring. Nice busy week, thanks for sharing

[@RotarySMP]

I don't think so. According to the name plate it is an American machine. I think the metric fasteners on it are metric helicoil repairs to previously UNC threads.

[@bostedtap8399]

@@RotarySMP Metric helicoils make sense. Always love the imperial (or Standard), V Metric discussions, for those who wish to carry on with using a British King's smelly foot, and his big toe, carry on. I'm British, started my apprenticeship in 78, so no problem using Metric, even after Sir Joseph Whitworth's contribution to engineering. Regards John from the Black Country UK.

[@RotarySMP]

@@bostedtap8399 Hi John. If the lord meant for us to use the metric system, he would have given us ten fingers :)

[@procyonia3654]

Many machine builders started providing metric machines to European customers in the early 20th century, just like many European manufacturers provided machines in Imperial for the US, UK, Canada, and Australian markets. I have a Union boring mill (East German made) machine that was made in the 50s that is all Imperial I have a Monarch lathe where damn near everything is Metric made in the 40s When i worked for Giddings and Lewis (we made Vertical lathes and and Horizontal borers) pretty much all our machines were metric, unless Imperial was specifically asked for going back to the 70s Since it was made for European market , the original customer may have specified the machine be metric when it was ordered or they would not have made the order.

[@RotarySMP]

If that was case they didn't follow the spec very closely. The fasteners are all imperial, except the ones which must have worn out and been repaired with metric helicoils. Wierd that they used a profile shift on the 11DP gears set to match the 65.5mm shaft spacing.

[@procyonia3654]

Maybe it was designed on a Friday in that case

[@RotarySMP]

@@procyonia3654 Yeah. Wierd design. :)

[@vin12666]

Does the relais on the relais board has flyback diodes? And i would try to add some normal diodes over the contactor coils

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tips. I will check.

[@tinygriffy]

Did you check if the diodes (your original modules) are okay ? .. maybe a couple ferrite rings on the signal lines ?

[@RotarySMP]

I havent. thanks for the tips.

[@tinygriffy]

@@RotarySMP that would almost be too easy, right ? :D good luck !

[@RotarySMP]

@@tinygriffy My troubleshooting is based on unjustified optimism :)

[@tinygriffy]

@@RotarySMP Ah .. the perfect mindset to shoot trouble

[@RotarySMP]

@@tinygriffy Unjustiftied opimism, combined with enough patience to provide time for the machine to fix itself.

[@vincei4252]

Do the VFD's accommodate a braking resistor? I'd add that to the side projects list. [edit] this is not an answer your question, just an observation. FWIW

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Vince. There is a mechanic brake on the motor shaft. I just haven't got around to wiring it up yet. I was going to a VFD brake resister only if that doesn't work.

[@vincei4252]

@@RotarySMP Ah. gotcha. It has been so long I completely forgot.

[@RotarySMP]

@@vincei4252 Me too :)

[@TheQuantumFire]

What is the software your doing your electrical layouts in?

[@RotarySMP]

QelectroTech

[@Andrew_Fernie]

Sticking to one project is boring. Better to move on so you can forget what you were doing. Also, don't bother quite finishing it. Those couple of tid-bits don't matter once it's working.

[@RotarySMP]

Oh you are a bad influence Andrew. You sound like the voice in my head :)

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@RotarySMP Just a self observation I'm afraid.

[@jdmorgan82]

Here I thought you were going to call me out because I haven’t watched in a couple weeks. Well that’s because I’m in Germany.

[@RotarySMP]

Nico is working through a list. Make sure you are no on it :)

[@jdmorgan82]

If you just schedule an appointment with DMG, I’m sure they would be happy to send me over to work out the rest of your problems. Though I can’t say the minister of finance would be pleased. It would give me a nice reason to stay in Europe longer too.

[@RotarySMP]

@@jdmorgan82 Yeah, don't hold your breath on that one :)

[@skullclamp1992]

Dear Mark, I've been following your channel for a while now. I really enjoy watching you work on your projects. As a skilled toolmaker, I would love to send you some new milling tools that I have had for a long time and don't use. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to reach you. Can you please help me? Kind regards from Switzerland

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. That is very kind. On the channels "about'' tab, there is an email link.

[@skullclamp1992]

@@RotarySMP Thanks for the tip. I will send you an email this evening.

[@BloopTube]

Damn, getting some weird post metal vibes off the music this episode, have you got a name for the band?

[@RotarySMP]

Was a variety of bands. At which point in the video?

[@lwilton]

Well, technically the US went metric when the inch was defined as exactly 25.4mm, which, believe it or not, was 1930. Now, if you want to know when the US started making things in millimeters, they didn't. The US auto companies started buying and rebranding Japanese cars and car parts, all of which were metric. This resulted in every auto repair shop having to buy a set of metric wrenches. For a number of years there were bastard cars that had both inch fasteners and metric fasteners, and you never knew which nut was going to be which size. Later on we started to buy everything from China and closed our own manufacturing base, and since China was metric, that is probably the best date for when the US went metric. As to the DoAll bandsaw, I'm betting that was an export model for Europe, and had been designed metric to make repairs possible.

[@RotarySMP]

The DoAll gearbox has imperial DP11 gearset, with a profile shift to a 65.5mm shaft spacing, metric bearings, and then all imperial fasteners, except those the Belgian army stripped and helicoiled with metric. Strange beast.

[@engineerwrecker8153]

I question the coil breaking as the cause of the issue. Why would Linux-CNC say E-stop. Why would only the contactors coils and no other relays cause the issue. Yes the contactor’s coil would pull more power than another relay but it isn’t pulling that much more power. I would test it by using a separate 24Vdc source to power the contactors only. If it faults than its not surges in the contactor coil. I think those are diode modules. If not, you could always put a diode across A1 and A2 directly. That is a fairly common practice in the US. Just make sure the current flow direction is A2 ->|- A1. I would now like to point out that this sounds like you have gremlins in your machine. Gremlins are often ground and neutral issues. Pay close attention to your grounds and neutrals.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for your thoughts. I helps with my trouble shooting. No other 3Ph relays make or break in normal operation. The spindle contactor is only used at machine start to power the VFD, after that spindle start and stop is handled by the VFD. That contactor also drops on E-Stop, but then the e-stop from the limit switch is also normal. The Z axis only uses it's Hal sensor as a home switch, not combined home + limit like X. The other Hal sensors in the tool changer I haven't connected yet.

[@engineerwrecker8153]

@@RotarySMP It just hit me. It tripped when you pushed it in by hand that means your not powering the contactor coil. How could coil emf interference cause the issue if it is not powered up. Turning off power going to the motor and push the contactor in. Does it still trip when no power is going through the contactor and you release it.

[@RotarySMP]

@@engineerwrecker8153 I was working on the trouble shooting, but then had to send time relearning how to set up my Osci.

[@johnmccanntruth]

I’ve found that the US tries to go metric every few, maybe 10 years, and then gives up… 😂

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks John :)

[@timogross8191]

What I really do not undestand is. Why are there no DROs, Servo motors or computers on your table saw? Something is wrong here :-)

[@RotarySMP]

I need the low gear, and then I can start cutting up DRO's :)

[@steinhest]

What cad program are the schematics created in? I am guessing it is not freeware?

[@RotarySMP]

It is freeware. Qelectrotech.

[@steinhest]

Thanks! I must look into that. 🙂 Btw i am a looooong time viewer, i do hope you get that nameplate cleaned one day. 🫡

[@RotarySMP]

@@steinhest Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate that. I suspect that the nameplate will be miraculously clean the day I declare this machine finished :)

[@tobiasripper4124]

yeah dave? wth bro!? lol

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Tobias :)

[@Si-Al-Ti]

They obviously had no choice after losing by a millimetre to Sweden in the women’s World Cup!

[@RotarySMP]

:)

[@Bob_Jones_]

small flyback transformer for the coil

[@RotarySMP]

Is the coil the problem, if it also happens when I manually push in the contact?

[@Bob_Jones_]

@@RotarySMP hmm...typically the coil will cause flyback and interference issues, however if it is also happening with manual actuation of the relay then it is likely something else happening to cause the interference.

[@RotarySMP]

@@Bob_Jones_ Thanks Bob.

[@curtisnewton895]

they did ? oh so you stole Old Tony's format...

[@RotarySMP]

Tony doesn't mind.

[@emilgabor88]

USA is metric . There standards are metric . The definition of 1 inch is 25,4mm they use the metric for their standards… just they convert it because they are not that smart

[@RotarySMP]

Ouch, that is harsh ;)

[@emilgabor88]

@@RotarySMP USA is part of SI but they convert alt of the units . There standards are metric 🤣🤣

[@RotarySMP]

@@emilgabor88 DoAll was a pioneer :)

[@grantofat6438]

They never went metric.

[@RotarySMP]

Except for DoAll, with the gearbox.

[@E1nsty]

NAMEPLATE!

[@RotarySMP]

Slowly coming along.

[@KF-qj2rn]

foreign export metric customer base, so early adopter

[@RotarySMP]

Then why were all the fasteners imperial, except those the Belgian army had stripped and helicoiled to metric?

[@624Dudley]

First? That’s a first 😄

[@RotarySMP]

Yes you are! Bit of a mish-mash this week :)

[@Oberkaptain]

Second?

[@RotarySMP]

@@Oberkaptain Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

2100'th