#RoughCut2022

#roughcut2022 #SHOPMADETOOLS
Dear Viewers, here is my contribution to the RoughCut2022 video hashtag.
It's not a cutting tool but it will help you if you do use lathe cutting tools.
Enjoy!
In case you don't have access to a lot of machine tools, this tool height setter could be made from a 3D print quite easily. Even a wooden version would work. The key components are the two calibration set screws. Having adjustment built into the tool makes is reliable
For anyone who might want to make one of these tools, I am sharing the link to a PDF version of the 2D drawings, www.dropbox.co...
Some people have asked if I intend to make any of these for sale but the short answer is no. It would cease to be a hobby for me if I were churning out batches of small parts and the reality is that I would lose money on every one I sold.

[@Preso58]

For some reason this video has attracted a lot of negative comments lately. Rather than answer each comment individually, it is easier for me to pin this comment here and refer people to it. Firstly, this video was an entry in the RoughCut2022 video challenge in which KZbin creators were asked to make a tool. I made a tool. It didn't win. I don't mind. I had fun making the tool. Secondly, yes, you can set a lathe tool by trapping a scale/rule between the tool tip and the work. But this is a fairly subjective method. It does work and I have used it but it is approximate. Thirdly, I acknowledge that this tool is overly complicated but it does work, it is accurate and a similar version is made and sold by Edge Precision. Fourthly, I am not asking people to buy it and I only ever made two of them, one of which was given away as a subscriber gift. I wanted to make something nice for the gift which is one reason why I spent a lot of time finishing it. Fifthly, I like making things and finishing them well. I enjoy using processes like anodising, CNC engraving and bead blasting. If you don't want to use those processes, you don't need to and the tool will still work perfectly. Sixthly (is that even a word?) I wanted to showcase some techniques which may not be widely known for makers who watch KZbin. Even if you don't want to make a lathe tool setter, you might still see a technique that you could adapt to a different project. I hope this answers a lot of common questions. Regards, Mark Presling

[@260bossute]

awesome tool mate, I'd love to have one of those.

[@konaguzzi1]

you make what works for you if you enjoy making it and it works as it is supposed to then, anyone complaining is forgetting the first rule it's not their problem. By the way your finished product looked very well made and finished very impressed.

[@josemanon6295]

You are a true artist and a pro. Don't listen to youtube nincompoops. Thanks for sharing. I'll build one.

[@dirtfarmer7472]

Thank you Sir for your knowledge & video I do appreciate your efforts

[@robertlawson8572]

You look to be of an age where we did things simply, yet... You've developed an unnecessarily complicated tool for a simple task. The simplest ways are best...What we did was interpose a (straight) steel rule between the tool tip and the workpiece (I'd use a straight plastic rule, now, carbides tending to be brittle by comparison with HSS, or interpose a plastic pad between my hard steel rule and the tool tip), having got the tool up to something approximating the lathe spindle centreline. the rule then lies at a tangent to the workpiece. If the rule is vertical, the tool is at centre height. If the rule top is nearer the operator, the tool's below centre, and vice versa... Imagine... You're on a big Swift (or other) lathe, with an 8 foot diameter cast iron cylinder mounted in it... you have no means of getting to the tailstock after a tool swap or regrind... even if there's no workpiece in place, do you want to move the toolpost 4 feet to get a tool on centre? No, you get a rule out of your box (or top pocket) and interpose it between tool tip and workpiece, when it's loaded... Works with LH, RH, and upside down tools Not criticism, by the way, merely an observation... The old Cincinnati tool and cutter grinders came with a centre height setting tool as standard equipment, used for setting cutter teeth on centre before grinding, and, they could be used to set a tooth on centre whether it was pointing up or down, and to set the wheelhead spindle centreline relative to the workhead or centres... Same simple tool... Something similar or even simpler could be used on a little lathe like yours...

[@NASA-AU.]

I could watch that all day.

[@beetlejuice1989]

my mind was blown when you installed the tool and showed how easy it was to use! absolutely outstanding.thank you for the video!

[@grahamjones4888]

The last time I used a lathe was at school 63yrs ago! I always love watching professionals at work with lathes, it’s an obsession with me. Learning it helped me at work, 37yrs in the ambulance service, it helped me know a bit of what they were talking about when I was patching them up! 😅. Brilliant video.

[@Preso58]

Thank you. A lot of people misunderstood the purpose of this tool and the reasons I had for making it. There are simpler ways of setting lathe tools to correct height but I wanted to demonstrate some procedures and processes that can be carried out in the home workshop and the tool was a good way of doing it. However I made two. One was given away as a gift and I keep the other one next to my lathe. I use it often and it just works. I am glad you appreciated the content for what it was. Regards, Mark

[@nickb3005]

Nice little gizmo you came up with for tool setting. I like it!

[@aviationjmp8257]

Well executed machining and complete finishing process of doing not only this tool (which is well thought out) but any tool or part from cradle to grave. I'm retired from 50 years engineering, still active in my own shop. I have continually learned and asked questions from others like yourself for better, easier, more logical ways to improve our craft. Great job Mark, I like the tool and your build execution.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. I enjoyed making that tool and although it's a bit over the top, I still like to use the processes that enhance the finished product. I guess it's a case of being able to justify the expense of purchasing tools and materials. If you don't use them regularly, it's a bit of a waste.

[@MyLilMule]

Such a well made tool. I do very much appreciate the effort you put into finishing your projects.

[@allanthomson4639]

thank you - good health to you from South Africa

[@Bristoll170]

Another work of art. Very clever concept indeed. The copper pad inserts are a great way to hold things from moving. Another trick to bung in the 'Handy Ideas' folder. Thanks as always for sharing this Mark. Cheers from N.Z 👍

[@Preso58]

Thanks. A small scrap of nylon or PTFE works well too. We are actually in New Zealand now. Up in Whangarei. Shame about the weather. Regards, Mark

[@randyshivak8785]

I like it. I’m going to make one. I’ve seen several other types but this one appeals to me. ❤

[@Preso58]

I like it. Unfortunately a lot of people thought it was over done and too complex but it doesn't have to be anodised and it doesn't even need to be made of metal. Acetal or acrylic would be fine for the body. It could even be 3D printed. Regards, Mark

[@boblewis5558]

Beautiful job! I love the purple/green contrast. Glad to see someone engraving through the anodising. This is a technique I conceived myself some 47 years ago (don't know if anyone had done it previously) but with pantograph v groove engraving through black anodising for an audio amplifier panel. I had the black anodising done professionally for me, perfectly prepared to pay but despite trying (and succeeding) to black anodise some fine aluminium mesh (car filler support mesh!) for the air vent, AND doing the case cover they were happy to do it all free, they just wanted to see the result afterwards. They'd never tried anodising mesh so fine and were concerned it might all dissolve - it didn't! So some 47 years later how does it look? Wish KZbin allowed pics in posts, but suffice to say it STILL looks pristine and the engraved aluminium, despite being exposed to air for all that time is STILL shiny. Anyone who knows how to anodise and has a CNC engraver should try this. The results are superb. I didn't have access to glass bead blasting back in the day, but instead just used fine wet & dry (1200?? - LONG time ago) and gave the ali a brushed look prior to anodising. Today I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad or locate a glass bead blaster (I love that matte finish)! Not sure I'd go to the lengths you have to produce such a tool but having a 3D printer and not a Mill 😢😢 I might try it at some point. Before that though, my VERY recently acquired, bargain priced, Myford ML2 has to be completely refurbed & restored, together with a large format, heavy duty pillar drill (70mm column!).

[@Preso58]

Thanks Bob. I must say it has taken a lot of experimentation to get repeatable results with the home anodising. As you have found, the finish is very durable. What I only found out recently was that the PH of the dye can vary quite a lot and if it is too alkaline, it won't take very well or at all. I purchased a digital PH meter and found that some dyes were PH 9! A few drops of hydrochloric acid got it down again though. There's always more to learn.... Regards, Mark

[@boblewis5558]

@@Preso58 thanks for that! Highly useful tip. AND, at the moment, 36% Hydrochloric acid is perfectly legal in the UK so a simple PH meter can solve that problem for me too hopefully, although using Sodium Bisulphate may require a different PH or not even be bothered! We shall see! 👍👍👍

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

Mark, I generally don’t comment on some of the larger KZbin channels. Seems like they already get enough comments to keep them busy responding. But I do want to say your work is always very impressive, and I enjoy every minute of it. In this field was no exception. Thanks for sharing. Gary

[@Preso58]

Gee, thanks Gary. I wouldn't put myself in the "larger" category but it's nice that you deem me worthy. I feel guilty sometimes watching the Tom Lipton's and Stefan Gotteswinter''s of this world and not commenting for the same reason. When are we going to do a sticker swap? Regards, Mark

[@lindsaybrown7357]

I enjoyed this as it showcased a lot of thought and techniques in machining, plating etc. As a wise man once said " those that can, DO and those that can't, WHINGE"

[@Preso58]

Thank you. I appreciate that you saw the video for what it was. I did want to showcase some techniques and processes that I use regularly and that maybe some people haven't had the chance to try yet. It's all about sharing. Regards, Mark

[@lindsaybrown7357]

@Preso58 Hi Mark I've got an old Aussie made Advance Lathe which I've tinkered with over the years. It's a small model makers lathe, but I've recently picked up an old Harrison 13x40 and planning to do more substantial projects. Channels like yours provide a lot of common-sense instruction. Take me back to my days at tech in Ballarat back in the 70s. I'm now interested in Anodising aluminium after watching your work. Thanks again.

[@wildcatmahone-md6me]

Adding some ground flat stock with rare earth magnets to your old tool would work.

[@Hailon]

Quickest and easiest way to find the centre line of the tool. Spin the tool post around and set the tip to the point of the tailstock centre. Works every time, no tool needed! Also in the UK we call the projection a 'Pip'... great video as always Mark

[@Preso58]

That's how we used to do it at school. However, once you spin the tool post you lose your reference on the DRO. I wish I had one of those fancy schmancy multifix tool holders but an old cheapskate like me finds them a bit too pricey. Regards, Mark

[@johanneslaxell6641]

How we have done it at work: take an aluminium-sheet. Put it on the cross-slide. Make a mark with the tailstock centre. Saw on the mark and make the sheet to look as a "Z". There is the correct hight. We have made them from aluminium, made one last thursday (took about five minutes). With a good bandsaw one could make it in Aisi316 to last"forever". The inserts slowly destroys the aluminium edge so be prepared to make a new every 15-20 years 🤭🤣...

[@ADBBuild]

This also only works if your center is actually on center. All kinds of reasons why that might be out.

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

Me too, since it’s already there . 😊

[@johncoops6897]

Spinning tbe tool around assumes 2 things, which can be incorrect: A) the toolpost is vertical, hence doesn"t change height B) the tailstock is vertically centered.

[@rogerhill3984]

Very good. You must write out, in your best handwriting, “I must not remove swarf curls while the lathe is turning!” 100 times. I want to see it at the start of your next project!

[@Preso58]

I like to live dangerously. I'm a rebel! Regards, Mark

[@LastBastionLabs]

Great looking and functional part! Bravo!

[@reidgilker4527]

This man is a professional at his trade ,, nice

[@geppettocollodi8945]

I made one in 10 minutes. Screwed two plates on top of a pillar to be placed on the cross slide. The two plates look like an open scissors offering two surfaces for a normal tool and an inverted tool. No need to mount on any chuck which can be available unused or not. No need for late leveling. (the lathe may be free of twist but not necessarily level) Pop the "Gauge" on the cross slide, wherever the slide happens to be, no movement. m Move the tool older up or down for a rough adjustment and trim with the tool older adjusting knob to exact height. Done in 7.4 seconds. The tool presented has one advantage: The same gauge will work on any of the seven different lathes you own.

[@Preso58]

I already have a small tool setter made from injection moulded plastic. It looks like something that would be given away on a trade stand or machinery show. It works and it's surprisingly accurate but you have to hold it with one hand while setting the tool height. I guess what I made was unnecessarily complex but it was a nice thing to make and to give away as a gift. Regards, Mark

[@ajjskins]

I’m most impressed with how well the rest of his tools are set up, feed rates and everything. I have to agree there are much easier ways of finding center and making a tool to set up your machine so that it makes everything good and correct but you don’t have machines that are set up good and correct yet.

[@ianaristotlethompson4186]

Simple yet efficient and accurate. Watch those fingers Mark.

[@kenjohnson6338]

I'm a newbie. Got mill and lathe.. what a learning curve..!

[@markfoster6110]

Good job young man! I think you will make a great teacher with a bit more work !!!

[@Radiotexas]

You are just amazing!!! Thanks!

[@misterray5941]

That was brilliantly done by a genius, great to watch and I appreciate your attention to detail. Well done...

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Good one Mark ! The bearings really through me off...scratching my head till the end. 👍👍👍👍

[@Preso58]

Thanks. The prototype had only one bearing but the body of the tool wobbled about like a drunken sailor. Also, I cheaped out and bought Chinese skate bearings. Bad idea! I originally laughed when I heard that saying, "buy once, cry once". Now I understand what it means. Regards, Mark

[@endemiller5463]

Onya sonya!!! Nooiiccee!!! Love it. It's on the list now for sure. God Bless

[@Prisma011]

Hello Mr Pressling, most would consider the job done after milling (and chamfering) work. But from the point of view of a professional, the work is only over when the result looks convincing. As a layman, I would never put so much effort into the finishing. You have my utmost respect.

[@Preso58]

I know it's a bit over the top but I wanted to make something nice to give away to a viewer when I get to 30K subscribers. Regards, Mark

[@Prisma011]

@@Preso58 ...so, I am too early 🙂. I hope the lucky subscriber can appreciate it.

[@jacquelinesears1770]

My scale has worked flawlessly for years

[@Preso58]

That's great. You should use whatever system you trust and what suits the style of work you do. Regards, Mark

[@robertwalker7457]

Great retro colour too.

[@Preso58]

I'm glad you like it. I procrastinated for ages trying to work out what colour to use. Regards, Mark

[@onemischiefmaker7032]

You are awesome. Thanks for the info!!

[@passenger6735]

Absolutely brilliant anodising.

[@Preso58]

Thanks, but I must say it has taken a long time to get consistent results. I only found out recently that you need to check the PH of the dye. If it's too alkaline, it won't work well, or at all. Also, if you don't rinse all the electrolyte off the part, you will get bare patches where the dye won't penetrate. Regards, Mark

[@bostedtap8399]

Excellent design and manufacture 👏✔🧐. Certainly more versatile than many crossslide height setters. Again brilliant work and photography. Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John.

[@broglet2003]

Another great project and nicely finished as usual. The finish you achieve (anodizing, powder coating etc) really make your work stand out. I did miss the usual banter though.

[@Preso58]

Normal service will be resumed in the next video. I promise. Regards, Mark

[@asusy2772]

I do like this singing nightingale in the background 😍

[@Preso58]

We don't have nightingales here in Australia. It might have been a butcher bird or a magpie though. The butcher bird has a beautiful song. Unlike the sulphur crested cockatoos which are just raucous and screechy! Regards, Mark

[@roberthiggins1142]

That is a great little tool that would be so very handy to have in the tool box.

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Wow 30k! That’s a huge achievement. Great to see your hard work is appreciated.

[@Preso58]

Thanks John. Not quite there yet but getting close. I wonder if KZbin will send me a cardboard play button? Regards, Mark

[@BoB-Dobbs_leaning-left]

I have always used the ruler method. A small diameter rod in the chuck and a 6" ruler. Bring the tool up to the rod, pinching the ruler between them, then adjust your tool height so that the ruler is dead plumb. Simple but accurate.

[@Preso58]

That absolutely works and I have used it myself but I wanted to make something nice to give away as a prize. I will be doing an announcement with details of the give away soon. Regards, Mark

[@coplandjason]

Exactly the method I use, accurate enough for my hobby stuff

[@FinnoUgricMachining]

There is at least one bubble level based center adjusting tool I've seen but this one seems like a functional alternative. At first I thought that the adjustments went haywire when changing from tailstock to spindle but then my brain went on a thinking mode (rarely do) and I realized that the two measuring surfaces are actually equal. I think the best way to calibrate this tool is to do the calibration with a tool whose cutting surface is upwards. Just do the calibration both in tailstock and in the chuck without changing the tool. Then it is easier to access the adjusting screw as well. Cheers, Esko.

[@Preso58]

Why didn't I think of that? Since I finished the two tools and the video I have not actually used them. One is to be kept unused for the give away but the other is sitting by the lathe waiting until I return home. We are actually in New Zealand at the moment and we left just after the tools were finished. The design I came up with is a bit like the Edge Precision lathe tool setters. However, as far as I know they don't make one that will do both regular tools and inverted tools. Regards, Mark

[@geoffcrumblin9850]

Very impressive tool, in my apprenticeship were taught to touch the toolbit onto our 6inch rule against the surface of the work piece. The rule gives a quick indication of offset either side of centre

[@Preso58]

Yes, that works well and I do use that method at times. Regards, Mark

[@bulletproofpepper2]

ok you got me. i had no clue what you were doing or how it was going to work, till the end. thanks for sharing!

[@Preso58]

Thanks, normally I would explain as I go but all that got edited out when I realised that I was working to a 30 minute video length. Thanks for watching to the end. Regards, Mark

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Love it, my problem is the quick change holder is a bit inaccurate and the tool tip can be a bit off depending how one holds it when clamping. This sorts that and its on my lets make one list. Brilliant!

[@WaynesGarageTexas]

Very nice! I'm a great fan of your channel. Learn from you every time that I watch!

[@andersjackson4014]

Love your teaching skill (and your accent)

[@hobbyoverload]

And again, I'm very impressed! A nice challenge to reproduce this tool on my mini lathe ;-)

[@petergoodall6258]

Quite a workshop!

[@JohnTheHam]

Amazing craftsman!

[@rexmyers991]

Absolutely BRILLIANT! Good on ya Mate. Thanks for sharing.

[@WatchmakerErik]

I was taught to pinch my six inch (150mm) scale between the tip of the turning tool and the work. Vertical scale means proper alignment!

[@Preso58]

That absolutely works. Still, I like making tools and I have fun with the anodising and the engraving. Regards, Mark

[@WatchmakerErik]

@@Preso58 nothing wrong with making a tool to make things easier. The ruler method does work but it's not as easy or convenient. And I've dropped my scale in the chip tray enough for one lifetime 🤣

[@RiverBanks-OzarkStoryteller]

Very good workmanship! Retired now still do a bit of pt work. Wish they had something that accurate for a muti screw machine!

[@tsirron]

That would make a great addition to MY tool box. Wonderful project

[@HaxbyShed]

Very professional Mark, and many techniques demonstrated. It's a reference work. Cheers.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. It's probably way overdone but it sure does look pretty. Regards, Mark

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Pretty snazzy tool setter there. Well done.

[@Churchill250267]

Hey Preso! I spotted your engineering injury(finger nail)! Wear your scars with pride mate! They're character building! Greetings from Salford, UK!

[@Preso58]

I know. Gross, isn't it. Strangely enough, the accident that caused such a blemish on my beautiful fingers was fairly underwhelming. It didn't hurt at the time but the next day it was kicking butt. Regards, Mark

[@meanerkat4339]

That was some nice work.

[@hitnmiss49]

Great job making that beautiful and very useful tool. Thank you for sharing it with us.

[@foxwhiskey]

Great job, Mark ! With your equipment and your knowledge it's an easy thing for you. The precision is overwhelming. Thx for showing. Best regards !

[@Preso58]

Thanks. Sometimes you get lucky. Regards, Mark

[@robertwagner8596]

way cool bud,new subscriber here,thanks for sharing,im a old back busted trucker with not much to do so im impressed with these videos.keep up the good work and thanks for sharing....cheers from north carolina usa

[@nicolasaivaliotis6574]

Hi mate from Athens keep up the good work.

[@MalJ-eb7nv]

Very useful tool. Good video with the machining clearly shown. Thankyou

[@MrStrangegoo]

A brilliant little design and easy to use.

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

Thar was fun! I wondered about the Edge setting tool, mainly for the tiny carbide boring bars I use, which are 1.7 mm diameter, but I also need to set up 0.5 mm pitch threading inserts which are at steep angles. I think a modified version of your tool with a larger radius and smaller tip might work really well. Also, the colour is fabulous.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I really should get some of those little carbide boring bars. I have seen Joe Pi using them and I get very jealous. I have about 8 different colours of anodisng dye but that violet colour is my favourite. I only found out recently that the PH of the dye is really important. I bought myself a PH meter and found out that half my dyes were way to alkaline. A few drops of hydrochloric acid gets them back into range and the parts colour up nicely. Regards, Mark

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

@@Preso58 pH of the dye is interesting, I must have a check of this blue dye to see what it's acidity is. The Simtek tools are excellent although I think it's possible to grind them from scratch using a Deckel or similar. I made my own holders and the little boring bars last ages unless you do something brutal. Like knocking the carriage handwheel...

[@WesleyJolly]

That is a wonderful tool! I'm not a machinist, I watch​ @Cutting Edge Engineering Australia regularly and you showed up in my feed, and I have to say I'm glad you did, I'm now subscribed to two machining channels!

[@Preso58]

I too am a fan of Cutting Edge Engineering. What he does is scary and spectacular at the same time. Watching him parting off a 200mm chunk of high strength steel on power feed is "exciting". Regards, Mark

[@DudleyToolwright]

Very interesting approach and even nicer work.

[@joopterwijn]

Damn, that's a handy tool to have... all I need now is a lathe, a horizontal mill, a belt sander, some bits and bops , some metal stock,...😅 just have fun! Thanks for sharing, a couch like to watch metal worker (hahaha)

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Mark, A very nice design, I have not seen one like that before. An enjoyable video, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@Preso58]

Paul, Edge Technology make one similar but where I live they are very expensive. Regards, Mark

[@clayz1]

For a horizontal bed engine lathe… 1. Face it until the tit disappears. 2. Ballpark it by pinching a 6” scale against the work OD. Does the scale look vertical? This will get you surprisingly close. 3. Really nail it using a 40mm shaft that has been faced to the vertical dimension of your ways to centerline. Joe P gave me that one and it is simple and really accurate. 4. I’ll bet Mark comes up with something good though. He’s still milling aluminum…

[@Preso58]

Many have reminded me that my approach is over the top. My view is that I have to justify the investment in bead blasting kit, anodising plant, expensive CNC tooling and honking great milling machine. My wife thinks I am working. I am having fun. 😁 Regards, Mark

[@clayz1]

@@Preso58 Your tool centerline setter is a thing of beauty, artistic and functional. Typical of your work. I’ve watched all your vids for a couple of years now.

[@gutsngorrrr]

Very nice little tool to have and very well made, with great attention to detail.

[@dvig3261]

I just bnb use my thin blade 6" scale. I pinch it between the work and the tool and adjust the tool until the scale is vertical. 40+ years never went wrong.

[@Preso58]

I have used that method and it works but I think you missed the point of the video which was to make something nice as a gift for a viewer and also to demonstrate some techniques like drag engraving and anodising. Regards, Mark

[@davidmott2090]

Anodizing looks really nice.

[@cheway96]

excellent work my friend : )

[@minskmade]

this came out great. wonderful solution. the anodizing surprised me.

[@Preso58]

I love the look of anodised aluminium. However being able to glass bead blast it first is a great option for a low sheen finish. Regards, Mark

[@dagorithe]

Looks great . Thanks for the drawings.

[@buckw65]

Good design and nice looking too

[@loganlawlyes1980]

I have to use shims to set my height for my tooling in my lathe, altho this video was not helpful to my situation it looks like a fun project and I will be making one soon, thank you.

[@Preso58]

I used shims for more years than I care to remember but the "set and forget" method which utilises quick change toolholders and insert style tooling becomes very attractive if you can afford such luxuries. The tool height setter is another luxury but there are simpler methods of achieving the same result. Regards, Mark

[@johnspathonis1078]

Nice job Preso. However I sometimes find I need to check heights half way through a job with the job in the chuck and with either a tool or live centre in the tailstock. I use your old tool concept with a simple machined steel cylinder with a sharp top edge. Just use a finger nail to check for level. No need to worry about upsetting DRO settings if you use a 40 position European style tool holder. They fit back into postion very accurately.

[@Preso58]

John, I would very much like to own a multifix tool post. Unfortunately they are a bit rare and expensive out here in the colonies. The old style tool height setter works very well but you have to think ahead and get the tools all set before you start the job. Regards, Mark

[@johnspathonis1078]

@@Preso58 Hi Mark Thanks for the reply. I also live in one of the penal colonies - up the road a bit. Luckily my lathe came standard with a 40 position holder.

[@mikepettengill2706]

Cool Tool!

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Very well done as expected. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Harold. Regards, Mark

[@outsidescrewball]

Nice build…enjoyed

[@frankward709]

Very awesome tool Thanks for sharing the video

[@EmmaRitson]

enjoyed very much

[@Preso58]

Thanks Emma. Regards, Mark

[@DK-vx1zc]

Very nicely done! Looks great and works great.. Thanks for sharing. You are inspiring!

[@JB-yp6bd]

That's brilliant. I'd like to suggest a much simpler way though. Chuck up some stock, turn it to whatever diameter, basically a clean up pass. Measure the diameter with your micrometer or calipers. Bring your tool up close to the end of the part and use a depth micrometer or the depth feature on your vernier to adjust up or down as you know the radius of the part. Much simpler 👍 do love your videos though Mark cheers from Melbourne

[@eweunkettles8207]

push the tool tip against a steel rule between it and round bar in chuck it will be perfect when rule does not deflect ie should remain vertical

[@JB-yp6bd]

@@eweunkettles8207 damn that's simple too 👍

[@alank616]

Thanks Mark , Great work 👍

[@motionsick]

nice. never seen a spring loaded scriber like that

[@Preso58]

Nor had I until about three years ago. I have two but the one that I bought from Boring Research is the easiest to use. The carbide point is held in by a magnet so it won't accidently drop out of the spindle. The good thing is that you don't have to worry about having your part exactly level. Regards, Mark

[@billchiasson2019]

That’s an amazing project! Great video as well!

[@danarrington2224]

The roadblock here is that this machine is intended to make precision components and there's nothing precision about a bubble level. Yes, a bubble level is used to level the machine but after that you still need to make test cuts to ensure that it's cutting straight. A simpler solution is to measure from the centerline of the spindle to the top of the cross slide and make an "L" gage block that sits on the cross slide and overhangs the tool. You could even put magnets in it so that it will stay in place while you set your tool.

[@Preso58]

I have a gauge block and it is configured for both regular and inverted tools. However it is very sensitive to having swarf trapped underneath it. If everything is clean and clear it does a good job. Edge Technology make a tool very similar to the one featured in this video so there must be a market for this type that uses a bubble level. That is what gave me the idea to try out this tool. A lot of people who don't watch the whole video think that I am advocating this as the only or best solution. This is not the case. I wanted to make a nice tool to give away as a subscriber gift and I also wanted to showcase some processes that can be carried out in the home workshop like anodising and drag engraving. Having said that, I use this tool often and it works well. Yes it takes a bit more work to manufacture it but you don't need to go to as much trouble as I did. It could be made of wood or plastic and as long as you build in some means of calibration it will be accurate. Regards, Mark

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Excellent tool, made me subscribe...

[@Preso58]

That's great. Welcome aboard. Regards, Mark

[@n.b.p.davenport7066]

Use a stainless steel 6-inch rule put it against the cutter and your stock, adjust the tool where your rule is 90° straight up and down

[@Preso58]

I know. Please read the pinned comment on the video for my reasoning regarding this tool and how it was made. Regards, Mark

[@Jimmyzb36]

Wow!! I wish that I had thought of that. Well done. Thanks

[@iguanapete3809]

That was a long journey. I have one suggestion. Show us the finished product first so we have some idea as to what exactly you are doing step by step.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Preso, what a brilliant idea, I think I best be making one myself, the anodising really finishes the tool off nice with the engraving, awesome job as always mate and congratulations on clicking over 30k subscribers, Cheers

[@Preso58]

It probably seems a bit like overkill but I have one that was given to me that only has one bubble level so it wont' do inverted tools. It has a 90 degree vee notch which you have to hold against a cylindrical surface while you adjust the tool height. It is made of injection moulded plastic and it sort of needs three hands to use easily. Regards, Mark

[@oldmaninthecave]

Beautifully done!

[@willywgb]

Good job Mark. I may have to make one. Cheers Willy

[@garrattfan]

For the roughcut challenge a wonderful entry! It does seem a bit overly complicated to me though. I have a stunningly simple method: I use my height gauge. For calibration take a piece of round bar, halve the outer end in the mill, put it in the lathe’s chuck, measure the height of the flat from the crossslide’s surface with the heigh gauge and write the numbers down. When setting any tool, set the height gauge to the “calibrated” height, lock it and use it to adjust the tip of the tool accordingly. Works every time. Advantage: works even when your workpiece is already in the chuck 😉 Disadvantage: it is a lousy entry in the roughcut challenge 😂

[@Preso58]

It's the old "horses for courses" thing. I am sure there are dozens of ways to do the same job. I badly wanted to buy one of the Edge Precision tool setters but they are very expensive here in Australia and I am not sure if they will do inverted tools. You are correct though. I was looking for a topic for the roughcut hashtag and this one fitted the brief. Regards, Mark

[@garrattfan]

@@Preso58 I enjoyed it nonetheless, very much indeed. So keep on doing things, even if overcomplicated, your videos are seriously entertaining.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Nice and well done, but very advanced, complicated. Put a round stock in the lathe and turn it to a known diameter. Use a micrometer to get the diameter. Use a hight stand placed on the carriage and measure the height of the turned piece. Subtract half the diameter from the measured value. That's the center height for cutting edges. Clamp a straight surfaced block under the height stand measuring arm and You can measure inverted cutters.

[@Preso58]

I agree that this tool is a bit over the top. There are lots of methods for setting lathe tools using the inherent common axis between the tailstock and headstock and even the old trial and error method will get a result in a fairly short time. For insert tooling, you really only need to do it once but for the diamond tool holders (which use a tangentially held HSS tool bit) you need to set the tool every time you take the bit out for sharpening. Plus, I wanted to make something nice to give away to a viewer for the 30K draw. Regards, Mark

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

@@Preso58 You made an impressive tool worth all credit. Designing and making things is the fun. Making something the simple way or the advanced way... the importance is it's performing as You planned.

[@joseph.d5187]

Presso, RotarySMP gave you and your Titon 60 a shout out and screen time in his last video "Who needs a cylindrical grinder?" at timestamp 7:55. He was visiting the Craftsmanship Museum near San Diego, CA. I always knew you were world famous! I love your work and you have very much sparked my interest in machining. I look forward to all your videos. Thank you so much from Chaska, MN. If you ever would like a shop cleaner or better yet an apprentice... I have plane fare saved. : }

[@Preso58]

Thank you for those kind words. I did watch RotarySMP's video and was surprised that he found the Titan worthy of mention. I am very grateful that I got the opportunity to work on the Titan project. It really extended my knowledge and skill set. I think it is very important to take on projects that are just outside your comfort zone. You may have noticed that I had a few failures and setbacks but that's an essential part of learning. As a (former) educator, I encourage everyone to try to learn something new every day. Regards, Mark

[@richardkramer1094]

Ingenious tool!

[@josephmufdi4564]

Damn mister! You are good!

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I do like messing about with metal finishing techniques. Regards, Mark

[@gregwmanning]

What brilliant idea!