Ruined HO Santa Fe 0-6-0 Mantua Steam Locomotive - Can We Make It Run?

[@MozanaRN]

Mantua locomotives are worth the time invested restoring them to their former glory. Thank you for sharing your efforts in bringing this particular locomotive back to life. They are excellent runners and pullers. It is sad that this kind of product is no longer manufactured. Keep up the good work Harrison. I will be watching this one again in its entirety!

[@callmebigpapa]

Maybe you could do video on re-lamping with LED lights ? I think it just requires a resistor to get the voltage to ~3v ? That said @18:21 the light is still blinking !!! This is one of the best channels on YT, you are the young Bob Ross of model railroads!

[@markwilliams2620]

One suggestion (as usual). For lighting wires twist them into a rope before soldering. Leave 2-3" of free wire length. Solder. Pig tail the excess wire so it will fit in the shell. I have done this one all Athearns/old Model Power/etc. I have bought. It helps during routine maintenance as you don't have to desolder the wires from the motor to get to stuff. The body rests away from the frame. Nice work, as always. Now to kit bash it into a CNR Class O-9. Edit: Nice paint job! And an 160 kmh 0-6-0! Paint her as a Hiawatha!

[@williammcgeehan3424]

Those white rim drivers are historically accurate. American Locomotive Company ( ALCO ) and Baldwin both painted locomotive wheel rims white for company photographer's builder's photos for their steam AND diesel locomotives.

[@josephbrandtner7713]

Rubbing alcohol will allow oxidation. Ronsonol, the lighter fluid, cleans just as well but does NOT allow for oxidation to take place. That is why video and audio professionals used Ronsonol to clean recording and playback heads!

[@gbwdude]

Didn't know that, I'll have to give that a try.

[@SMTMainline]

It won't remove oxidation but it's not there long enough to cause it. Lighter fluid would probably work well too although I don't think it's conductive so it would have to be wiped down carefully.

[@markwilliams2620]

Getting any petrochemical (lighter fluid/WD-40/Non-plastic safe oil or grease) on the white nylon gear will cause it to swell and crack, rendering the model a city park display piece.

[@SMTMainline]

​@@markwilliams2620 I've heard that theory before however when I was younger (before I knew better) I put WD 40 in many models and 12 years later the gears are still fine. Maybe it's the case with certain plastics but I've yet to see it.

[@magform]

Lighter fluid is basically naphtha, which as others have mentioned, can be hard on plastic. Denatured alcohol (ethanol) was what we used back when this loco was in production for cleaning. Methanol and isopropanol both have some properties unwelcome in model trains. A good LaBelle lubricant is probably the best antioxidant.

[@wintersbattleofbands1144]

I love when people try to "fix" stuff with no idea what they're doing. I took on a jukebox repair once. Didn't work properly so the guy started CUTTING WIRES thinking that would somehow help... LOTS OF WIRES (about 30)! After repairing them, I found a simple bent leaf switch. Luckily all the wires were color coded, so it was just time consuming. Anyway, after giving him an estimate for $450 (for my time), he sold it to me cheap, and I flipped it for a tidy profit. If he hadn't cut all those wires, I'd have been able to repair it for him for 50 bucks.

[@randallellison6421]

Another excellent restoration Harrison! Also, I wouldn't worry to much if the headlight burns out, there's companies that make brand new castings with LEDs installed for these types of locomotives. It won't be original and you will need a resistor, but you'll have a light that'll basically last forever!

[@tommurphy4307]

incandescent lamps are durable enough plus they have a more realistic glow. notice that the vast majority of harrison's repairs have working headlamps....its not that hard to put together a constant-brightness incandescent light.

[@randallellison6421]

@@tommurphy4307 that's true, several of the locomotives I own still have incandescent bulbs. That being said, LEDs do operating at a much lower voltage and have a cooler operating temperature than incandescent bulbs, plus they've gotten much better in the appearance department where they look more realistic lately. There's nothing wrong with using incandescent bulbs, but LEDs make a nice alternative too, I have a couple of Atlas U36Cs with the bulbs burned out and found some LED direct replacements that I'm going to stick in them.

[@greglivo]

One thing to look for on these worm drive diecast steamers is to check the gear lash, especially if the drivetrain seems tight. There should be a little bit of play between the worm and the axle gear. If the worm is tight on the axle gear it will cause binding and can burn up the motor. Some manufacturers have a slotted motor mount screw hole with the motor mounted on a bevel so that lash can be adjusted that way. Others recommend using paper shims between the motor and the frame. I really liked the extended running shots from different angles at the end of the video!

[@chrislangdon8182]

I've been holding off on fixing up a 50 yr old ho scale steam locomotive for three yrs, but when I see you fix them it makes it look like I could get it done in less than an hour.

[@tracynation2820]

A super video. I have a Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 that I will soon add a bought new old stock Tyco front end boiler hatch cover with a centered headlight so that it will resemble my Mantua/Tyco 0-4-0 steam locomotive. Both of these switchers were bought new, by me, almost fifty years ago, and still operate quite well on my railroad, both inside and outside, to this day. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: Think Great Northern Empire orange with Tracy Mountain replacing Great Northern. 🙂

[@abethpezarkar9946]

Another Successful Operation Doctor.... Well done.

[@magform]

Just a note when using metal Kadee couplers. Insulate then from any frame power runs through. Example: Athearn Blue Box F-7A double headed back to back. Instant short circuit when coupled. A lesson from long ago...

[@Scraghunter]

Good recovery on that old beast. Next challenge. Convert some of the old machines you have to DCC. I don't see any DCC gear on your layout, but you may want to give it a thought. Bit on the expensive to enter, but once in the door, it makes running (and wiring) your railroad so much easier. Amazingly enough, many of these old motors will work on DCC with little more than isolating them from the loco frames. See my 40 year old Athearn S-12 for a good example! :)

[@casstelles]

I would definitely repaint this engine not for the aesthetics, but to preserve the metal on the engine. I find that Zinc Rot seems to happen more often with the bare metal versus a painted surface. As far as the light bulb, it might be grounding out causing a minor shot which may be causing the dimness of the bulb.

[@PeytonYT1]

Absolutely AMAZING paintwork, you took a engine that almost anyone would give up on, one that was bent and messed up and almost completely ruined and made it work perfectly again! The new paint you put on it looks so good and I really love how you did the railing! Keep up the amazing work!

[@exarkun42]

Your redone paint looks great! I am also flabbergasted that that tender isn't derailing

[@MattKonsol]

Amazing restoration on it. Thats sad that the lightbulb is really burnt out it happened to the same thing kind similar but different scale to the lionel 1130 and got a new socket for it and i mustve wired it wrong thought but other than that i got it working! Btw Serenity on this! Also special thanks for florida northern railfan for sending this awesome autique to harrison aka smt mainline.

[@mrunitedstates5574]

Always a good day when SMT uploads

[@qwincyq6412]

“A short circuit on wheels”! Gotta luv it

[@LunyNephilem]

Been watching some of your videos and your enthusiasm is just contagious. Loving the videos, seriously. Regarding the light, it appears to flicker, so it'll be bright at points and then dim again. Around 16:18 onwards it seems to do that (wasn't sure if it was the room lights reflecting at first), but you see it again around 18:18 where it seems to flash on and off. Maybe an intermittent short?

[@tommurphy4307]

thats a marginal connection- easy fix

[@chrissharp5073]

Another wreck saved from the scarp yard. I find restoring old locos a great way of relaxing and let the world go hang it self much the same as watching you restore a loco. Well done.

[@garysprandel1817]

Maybe on your travels keep an eye out for some fracked beyond recognition Mantua steamers to serve as a supply of spares for fix it jobs like that one. Darn near 61 years old and the second I saw those trademark 50s/60s Tyco Mantua brown bakelite wheels I was once again a 7 or 8 year old boy with my first Tyco trainset. Mine was the PRR version of that in box CP Tyco set you found some years ago.

[@kentpool7414]

This channel is an encouragement. It gives viewers hope that they too can repair their broken items. And so they do. Well done.

[@andrewferguson5653]

Another great restoration, SMT!

[@patrickwamsley3284]

I have one of these that the motor was just a but worn. I replaced the motor with one from a newer model and after swapping the magnet out for neodymium magnets, it's genuinely the best running tyco I've ever seen that doesn't have a can motor in it. It can crawl easily at a scale speed of 1 or 2 miles an hour and has enough torque to maintain that crawl with anything behind it.

[@patrickwamsley3284]

I stripped and repainted mine as the original paint was literally falling off. Mine still has the original box and has the walschaerts valve gear kit.

[@SMTMainline]

Usually the washers fail and make these things run crappy. The lower "milage" ones run pretty well.

[@patrickwamsley3284]

I believe the original motor to the one I fixed up had a bad winding in it too. If given a turn by hand, it would start but ran very poorly.

[@suppylarue220]

just checked my reference material, and all photos show that model new with a blind center set of drivers . most likely that's a concession by mantua so that it's wheelbase would run on 15" radius and number 4 switches .

[@mercuryoak2]

Great restoration on this locomotive. I have that same exact tender but it's lettered Baltimore Ohio. The locomotive that would have gone with that tender I never got it but that was in a box of stuff with the Mantua Pacific I have and restored and custom painted it. The tender I have I hope to put with a 2-6-2 Prairie Mantua or another type. I noticed some of the comments within 5 minutes of you uploading the video it's like did they really watch the whole video or that did they skip through it? KZbin's algorithm is messed up but I hope people actually take the time to watch the video instead of skipping through it.

[@SMTMainline]

I think mantua tyco made several variations of this locomotive so the B&O must be one of them.

[@mercuryoak2]

@@SMTMainline yeah exactly but I think the tender was for a 0-4-0 for the one I have. But also they used it for multiple types. The 2-6-0,0-4-0,2-6-2 ,and your 0-6-0

[@KaidsTrains]

I just wanted to thank you for the videos that you put your time and effort into. I’ve been able to repair a lot of my broken locos with the information I’ve learned from your own repairs. I’ve don’t think I’ve ever seen a video where you can’t restore a locomotive, so good job!

[@joallawestervelt6918]

I love steam locomotives. This was a big joy watching it come back to life.. Not sure why I am just now finishing watching this. Perhaps it was late late night and I fell asleep. Glad I saw this to finish watching. Gorgeous locomotive 🚂 love it. ❤

[@gregnowak2492]

That is a cool engine sir. Nice work!

[@irenecraggs6123]

nice job harrison keep those videos coming

[@GaryDavis-ir6fh]

what a positively gorgeous ho scale 0-6-0 steamer, love it! switchers are one of faves!

[@asorexea]

awesome restoration man, keep it up

[@kroy1037]

Always enjoyable to see you work your magic on these old locomotives -- far beyond vintage, they are museum pieces. That gave me an idea: you have restored a number of these older engines in the past. Have you ever thought of freelancing a model railroad museum on your layout? It wouldn't require much -- kitbashing an old roundhouse to serve as an exhibition hall, a 'relocated' historic station to serve as a ticket / office / store, etc. Items from your collection of older equipment could be displayed inside and outside... Maybe something like that could be added to your layout expansion, adjoining the amusement park?

[@mollycaz1]

That was amazing might be your best find and repair job. The engine runs like it is brand new. Did the light stay on ? Can you replace the light if it stops working. I enjoy watching you bring back old engines from the dead to run again. You save them from the trash can.

[@n4pwx]

Great job on getting the old engine running. Congrats.

[@mdouglaswray]

Good work! That IS a sweet little engine, willing and ready.

[@davidztog9011]

No doubts, Harrison. She's a runner for sure. If you had put the Baby Ruth Chug Chug car in the consist, you could have messed with a few viewers minds and said it was sound equipped. 😁 Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍

[@dbtech7914]

I agree, the chug chug car would be great on that engine!

[@SMTMainline]

Haha, I wish I had thought of that lol

[@tracynation2820]

Super. 💙 T.E.N.

[@PirateChiefPC1]

He's an HO Wizard; there has to be a twist. This HO Wizard has such a soulful ...... skill set! "How do you think he does it?" "I don't know." "What makes him so good?" Another awesome resurrection of a by-gone Engine!!!!!!!

[@dylanmatros5877]

I Love when you run your trains After you Fix them The ones you buy off eBay and repair them I learned a lot from watching you I would like to one day fix my own HO engines from eBay To? 👏👍

[@SMTMainline]

Thanks. You should try it, it can be fun once you get the hang of it.

[@lawnmowermanTX]

I like the locomotive, the Bachmann has light and smoke fluid yet the front coupler, on the Bachmann is a fake and is fixed, yet can’t function on the Bachmann locomotives; yet the slope tender is horn hook. In the prototype real world locomotive a 0-6-0 was used as a switcher locomotive 🚂 to shuffle a few freight cars around the yard.. and both couplers worked. Most HO scale model railroading enthusiasts might notice the details in steam locomotives vs diesel locomotives. Mr Harrison did an Awesome job on this locomotive! Kudos! 👍👍👍

[@tommurphy4307]

of course they both worked on the prototype- never heard of a 'dummy coupler' in real life

[@lawnmowermanTX]

@@tommurphy4307 Ok I wasn’t clear.. on the HO Scale Bachmann 0-6-0 locomotive slope tender the front coupler don’t function. Bachmann never allowed working horn hook couplers on both ends. I don’t see a front coupler on this locomotive 🚂? Thanks for pointing out my errors, i saw your empty profile with no channels and videos or descriptions. Seems like a lot of people are criticizing my comments but too lazy to fill out their own profiles. I’m bored too! Thanks!

[@California163]

Nice job fixing the locomotive!

[@SMTMainline]

Thanks

[@NYandAtlantic]

Awesome job repairing that locomotive awesome looking train love watching your videos

[@thatsimulatorguy]

I love the 0-6-0 with tenders

[@MMRails]

What’s a steam locomotive without a little smoke? I chuckled a bit when the light started to smoke, only cause that happened to me recently. In my case I sent too much power to a small LED. Not sure what happened here. Still a great renewal to an old jalopy. Well done son!

[@JBofBrisbane]

Remember, you can only let the smoke out once!

[@paulbervid1610]

Number 8 falls to Harrison. Great work.

[@dbtech7914]

I love those old Tyco steam engines. They run great. You should be able to put at least 12 cars on there.

[@suppylarue220]

it's not a TYCO, it's a mantua.

[@tracynation2820]

Mantua and Tyco were the same originally, before the guys split up, and Mantua originally did locomotive kits, and Tyco did the Ready-To-Run, but company dealings muddied the lines, with both selling kit and Ready-To-Run locomotives, until finally they went their separate ways, with Tyco's Powertorque and Mantua's super detailed locomotives being the result. (basically.) Tyco also used Rivarossi, IHC, and other drives for a SHORT time, resulting in a non Powertorque drive Chattanooga Choo Choo and all wheel drive Tyco diesel locomotives, as well as Mantua's dual motor MU-2 and single motor all wheel drive diesels. Tyco quit and Mantua was bought out or absorbed by Walthers or one of its subsidiaries. (Basically.) 💙 T.E.N.

[@suppylarue220]

@@tracynation2820 the original company was Mantua metal works. tyco is a contraction of the Tyler company. tyco produced a cheaper version of the Mantua products aimed at expanding sales to the toy market for trains.

[@tracynation2820]

Yep, that was a Readers Digest condensed version. (Basically.) I know the full story, Tyler and all that, and Mantua Metal Products, but the all wheel drive Tyco diesel locomotive era still muddies the water. 💙 T.E.N.

[@suppylarue220]

@@tracynation2820 scale MRRg was in it's infancy at that time. HO was not yet dominate, the depression, WW2, the mind set of the 30s,40s,&50s was much different from now. it appears complex, but human behavior does not follow a existing pattern, those people at the time TYCO evolved, found themselves in a jungle of styrene. it was a perfect medium to mass produce cheap, toy HO. people try to create a reality. but others had their own ideas, some better, some not.

[@haxsa4467]

Cool stuff!

[@bandkid386]

Very nice build

[@northernrailfan4658]

The restoration is remarkable

[@SMTMainline]

Thanks

[@kylederry5031]

I don't even care if the paint job is not historically accurate, if anything it's making it pop a little more. I always loved white rim steam locomotives. There used to be one on display at Kempenfelt bay in Barrie ontario, CN #1531 Montreal Locomotive Works 4-6-0 built in 1910. They had to move it in 2008 to do a waterfront restoration and it is now at south Simcoe train museum and is going to be restored

[@SMTMainline]

Are they gonna restore it all the way to working order or just cosmetically?

[@kylederry5031]

I believe it's to working order as it has an Era correct caboose as well. But it's been at this museum since 2008 with little action, it's still on display outside as of 2021

[@keepamericayisraelgreat5708]

Yeah looks great now, good joy Mr. Mechanic.

[@SMTMainline]

Thanks 👍

[@thmasschutrop2197]

Great great restoration job. You do outstanding work

[@wintersbattleofbands1144]

You may want to invest in a can of DeoxIt. It's an electronics cleaner/lubricant that VASTLY improves connectivity. It's for audio and video controls and the like, but It's fantastic on other stuff. I use it on HO slot cars. Commutators and brushes love it. Also makes an EXCELLENT cleaner on a swab. It's formulated to break through electronic grime.

[@tjsimongoldenfigureoftheki3477]

Hopefully you can do the T1 locomotive a try to make it work again.

[@halliebohan884]

Nice job in.the repair and paint touch up Hal

[@kevinbreaker2683]

Great job😉👍

[@masonlong9633]

You should make a shirt that says,” We Got a Runner.”

[@tomcook5813]

I have found, a scotch bite bit for the Dremel tool makes the wheels shine nicely

[@brandonharris7516]

There were some back in the old west

[@tompPRR8976]

You can rehab that cab with snipping a tuna can and some JB Weld. Nice job.

[@Top-Trains-1943]

Awesome another amazing work from you Harrison how you can make a locomotive like that one is phenomenal by the way can you help me with a project that I have it's in York Central Hudson clean the motor and everything almost works except for the center wheel I lubricated but it doesn't want to work you know what happened?

[@Top-Trains-1943]

@Ye Old Geezer no only the two front and rear it's a 4-64

[@SMTMainline]

Can you turn the drive manually without too much force from the drive shaft?

[@Top-Trains-1943]

@@SMTMainline unfortunately no I'll do a video of it hopefully you could see it

[@tracynation2820]

Re-quarter the drive wheels, make sure that the drive wheels are correctly gauged and the drive gear is centered, check for cracks and gunk or missing teeth on the gears, and make sure that the siderods are free to move and not kinked, and that everything is slippery with the correct lubricant, along with good electrical connections and clean wheels and contact surfaces. This is assuming that the motor is working and doesn't have a weak magnet, bad brushes, or an electrical short. 💙 T.E.N.

[@Benthetrainkid]

y u no replace front coupler

[@johnathanlewis2049]

Great video. Could you make a layout tour video?

[@SMTMainline]

Once I get it a little more complete.

[@Brian_rock_railfan]

Awesome 🚂👍🚃

[@Petemonster62]

SMT - Is the headlight housing metal or plastic? If it is metal, maybe the leads of the bulb have scraped-off insulation and are intermittently short-circuiting? You could try using paint or some other material on the backside of the bulb to insulate the leads.

[@SMTMainline]

It's metal. I was thinking it could be a short too but the current draw is low without spikes so I'm not sure. Maybe the bulb is just too hot for the paint?

[@Petemonster62]

@@SMTMainline - It could be a bad connection too that intermittently opens & causes the bulb to flicker.

[@Lil_Pennsy]

Gonna say I saw smoke & quick question. I got an engine that was cleaned & lubed months ago, but it runs poorly after not running it, what do I do?

[@harveywallbanger3726]

I had one of these and it ran like a top 👍 It always ran good and fast.

[@wintersbattleofbands1144]

OUCH! The wires for the light were that long to allow servicing. You simply fold them up into the front of the boiler when reassembling.

[@Greatdome99]

2:50: Oh oh, wheels on tender trucks shorting out. Brass wheels have to be only on one side (opposite those of the live drivers).

[@heckingaxle6618]

If you want I can ship my Mantua 0-4-0 locomotive. I can't use it. the motor in it is apparently having issues. I have the old one but its got problem too.

[@Bob_Box]

I recently got an engine that looks VERY similar to this, but an 0-4-0. Same style motor and tender pickups. No front headlight though.

[@micoasters]

Idk what but the short circuit on wheels had me cracking up

[@vandenbricks]

Hey, just wondering what the conductive lubricant you use is, I use 107 on bits like gears and saw you used it too in parts of the video though I’m not sure if 107 is conductive or not, thanks.

[@tracynation2820]

For conduction, use a dab of mineral oil, TEN conductive lubricant, (Out of production.) or anti oxidant, (Ox-Guard is one.) on the contact areas, don't use oil on the contract areas, and avoid getting it on the motor commutator. However, a VERY small drop of oil, plastic compatible, on each rail, well spread out and completely wiped off with a soft cloth, will help with wheel/rail contact on both inside and outside model railway layouts. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: The 107 is fine for axle contact, but not bolster contact. 🙂

[@vandenbricks]

@@tracynation2820 alright thanks, I mainly need it for some bearings which also transfer power and the factory had oiled them with the wrong lubricant, a common issue with the first batch of the model in question.

[@jeremyjohnson457]

That locomotive is more than 45 years old it's right around 70 years old

[@jamesrucker]

Hello: when do you do mail call because I send you some vehicles for your layout.

[@randomrazr]

well they definately dont make em like they use to

[@northernrailfan4658]

Nice locomotive

[@psyar7829]

Do you have toys r us ho model train and cars?

[@charlievink1977]

Hi smt What transformer do you recommend that’s not to crazy expensive?

[@SMTMainline]

For DC and MRC Tech ii would probably be good.

[@tracynation2820]

An old-school MRC Tech ll 2400 will rock your world. I can operate up to nine modern locomotives or up to five older locomotives at one time with one of these power packs. 💙 T.E.N.

[@philiplawson5699]

Great video. Where do I buy that red handle tool that you used to polish the wheels and the motor's brass pickup plates?

[@SMTMainline]

I found it on Amazon, it's called a fibreglass pencil.

[@conductorjohnmthtrains2239]

Been a while since ive checked in , i've used Rubbing alchohol to clean my track for years never have any problems with oxidation or track to engine conductivity

[@Xtream__Attitude]

I have that same controller :) I love it

[@SMTMainline]

It's the best

[@rickygarrett6508]

Yay a steam locomotive 😁

[@jesikebiking]

What type of cleaning pen do you use ( the red one)

[@brandonharris7516]

Wow

[@SJ.Qhknmkk]

I have a similar one. Barely will run forwards. Backwards is fine. Do you have any tips

[@lawnmowermanTX]

Mr Harrison, is there plans of selling locomotives to subscribers? Would you repair locomotives sent in to you? My hematoma injuries ended my locomotive surgical repair skills. If not most Texas hobby stores in my remote area only sell complete sets $145 to $200 U.S. bucks and have don’t repair out of warranty locomotives.

[@nssrrailfan]

I got one just like this! Do you know how I can send in a couple things?

[@suppylarue220]

looks like that center set of drivers are missing their tires.

[@suppylarue220]

or were those made blind? does anyone know for sure?

[@Petemonster62]

That might just be dirt build-up on the wheel treads that looks like traction tires.

[@SMTMainline]

I don't think they ever had any.

[@suppylarue220]

@@Petemonster62 we're not talking about traction tires.

[@mercuryoak2]

@@suppylarue220 The middle drivers were made blind so they didn't have flanges on them. If it had Flanges on them the locomotive wouldn't be able to make the turns too easily if at all. They did the same thing a 4-6-2 Pacific and higher wheel configuration. Such as a Mikado 2-8-2 even the big boy the center two drivers on the 8-wheel configuration has no flanges to Aid in turning. Like give an example deleting driver on the Mikado or big boy or any locomotive for that matter unless it's a 0-4-0 the leading driver has flanges the next driver does not have flanges then the third driver if equipped such as in a 8-wheel configuration does not have flanges then the fourth axle has drivers.

[@agressive_cementbag]

Nice loco

[@User58747]

I can't even service a perfectly functional loco without turning it into a non-runner! Pretty frustrating really - I guess I just don't have the magic touch like you sir.

[@Gfysimpletons]

I use track bright on the wheels……..those fiber pens are expensive……

[@SMTMainline]

That works well too although I don't think the cost would be too different.

[@markphillips6154]

That thing is really cool

[@LL-ww6hr]

You need a new light on it

[@slr_393p]

very nice video!

[@DrayvenParks-ee5rr]

Do you have like a 6:11 class j toy because if you do can you show it to us

[@SMTMainline]

I don't have one.

[@betsymani2734]

Impressive

[@betsymani2734]

Entertaining 9/10

[@magform]

Sharpies work great as a filler on these old metal bodied steam locomotives in any scale as touch-up

[@Curious_Skeptic]

DCC it next! Lol. Have an older version being restored. Thinking of updating motor to 5 pole, flywheel and dcc. Why not. They just don't have a value in resale sadly.

[@SMTMainline]

I usually leave them DC for price and performance but if it's a sentimental model why not?

[@Curious_Skeptic]

@@SMTMainline Exactly. Also, a great loco to practice weathering on! Might even add lights and smoke! (sound...) It's in a million parts on the bench. Even took the motor apart to bare components. Love that old cast stuff. Just some special about it. Need to find some brass accents, like a bell , maybe railings. ;)