How To Make a Giant LED • How an LED Works

3d files:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
AMZN RESIN:
amzn.to/3QvezuJ
AMZN LED
amzn.to/47pJJe2
Hi folks, in this video, I’m going to experiment different methods to cast epoxy resin instead of using classic silicone molds. I’m going to try to use wax paraffin or in any case try to use their 3-D printer casting it’s self for Apoxsee resin inside.
First of all I design into fusion 360 the file I need to have the mold and the shape of an LED a pretty huge one and afterwords I try to print it she can use any kind of 3-D printer for these purpose but in my shop, I have a racing 3-D printer, which is great to have perfectly smooth design objects After printing. Hi soon realize I have the mold that isn’t perfect. It’s all covered with square faces, which is a bad thing because we never seen his LED with the square faces to fix it. I mounted everything in elite and use a lot of sandpaper to make everything smooth again now that everything is shiny smooth I can then take a spray and apply it this patch layer that helps to release the mold. In this case it didn’t work well. It could be a great idea to use some wax or some oil as a layer for let the resident not stick to the mall to self.
After pouring the resin inside and mixing everything in a glass container, I can see I have so many air bubbles and that transparency of the Apoxsee raising isn’t good enough. I absolutely need to remove all these air bubbles and I can’t use a fridge air compressor to do this. You can use a fridge air compressor is a vacuum pump, just connecting the suction pipe and sucking away all the air now that I have remove all the air bubbles I can forward the Apoxsee resin inside the mold and wait for about 24 hours that everything cures the next morning I just realize that it wasn’t working, unfortunately the Apoxsee resin sticks to the rising of the mold itself, and it’s impossible to remove the two parts, I don’t switch method this time I want to experiment with some paraffin wax. This could work, but you need to choose the right Apoxsee resin. Otherwise it will get so hard and get hot very quickly and come out the wax itself. In this case I was so lucky that the room temperature and the humidity Wass Perfect and the Apoxsee resin took so much time and didn’t get so hot and didn’t deform the mold itself after this time I can then break open the paraffin, wax, mold and take away the LED. It’s perfectly shiny and smooth, and I Duncan connect power 12 V to the LED chip and that’s it. My LED is ready I’m pretty sure you can take inspiration from these procedures for your own epoxy creation. I’m here just to give you an inspiration, but it’s up to you to make yourself what you really need.

[@ThePravathor]

When exporting model as a mesh from Fusion you have to adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" window to get smooth transitions on curved surfaces.

[@bsod4144]

or just use obj format..most slicers support it

[@micah2936]

@@bsod41443Mf is even better than that. I wonder how he exported it. I thought save as mesh was the only way

[@ChloeCake]

You'd think a resin printer would be able to just use a collection of image files or something like a GIF file but lossless

[@pablix]

Obj - 2000 faces Stl - 30000 faces Step - 130000faces Use .step

[@WernerBeroux]

I don't know much about F360 but generally export as 3MF instead of STL, and in Cura you may also try ARC welder plugin.

[@antonkukoba3378]

Your problems with splitting the parts are usually related to the draft angle of the parts. You need to design your 3d parts to have some small angle at the side walls. If you do it they will disconnect much easier, than when you do straight walls. Now that you have them straight you had a hard time when removing it even from the wax, since when you pulling it you create the vacuum behind it. And if the walls were tilted at least 1-2 degrees it would split like a charm, because the air would have the space to come through.

[@AlexusMaximusDE]

I really enjoy the confidence of Italians, French, Spaniards and Portugues speaking broken English with so much confidence.

[@maxironpaw]

You didn't make a giant LED. You made a housing for a commercially-available LED. Click-bait titles are not appreciated, my friend.

[@EesaPatel-bl2br]

You are wrong, 1.He showed us the picture in the thumbnail, of his desein. 2. He said how to make a GAINT led not a normal led. 3. Your just some stupid guy/girl who stumbles across such inocent videos like this and say its click bait for no reason.

[@Petr214]

i was expecting him to actually make one as well. still a good video tho, and maybe it'll inspire someone into actually doing it. hopefully be a bit safer about it too 🤣

[@stask85]

this! expected by the title, that he would "make" a huge led model, which would work. but this is just a resin housing for a flashlight

[@rooikatza]

Shame,you dont pay to watch this channel,and you can choose to skip...so stop winning like a little biatch and make your own then.....And if you think of saying :"Why so angry?" Dont bother cause thats soo old already

[@stormchaser300]

WELL AT LEAST IT LOOKS LIKE ONE

[@cyphre]

You'll have to get a handle on silicone molds! Way easier for this type of molding. Easier release, and reusable. Also, export your file as a step file so that there are no 'sides' like a mesh model. Results look great so far though!

[@jimpumphrey7713]

So cool. The second attempt was perfect. The LED resin was completely clear and the light was beautiful. Thanks for sharing this.

[@richcoffing2105]

Easy "In and Out" with your lathe with a polish. Scaring or taking the risk of cracking your epoxy was hard to watch. Love your content. ❤ Back country solutions! We need more people like this!!!

[@sumnam8157]

The LED 3D file came out low-poly because the 3D file that was exported from Fusion 360 was also low-poly; it was shaded smooth to make it appear as though it had a higher level of detail. It will become more apparent when you import the 3D file into the slicer. The 3D LED file was also not an "optimized" 3D file, meaning there were some errors within it. I'm also not a chemist, but it seems as though the resins are too chemically similar and bond together, so you would need to add more release agent, use a coating on the 3D print, create a mold like you did in the video, or see if there's an alternative 3D resin that would be suited for casting. Awesome video, and the resourcefulness is incredible!

[@ColinWatters]

Might also help to print the mold in two halves.

[@soundspark]

By the way if you model something in OpenSCAD you can control the amount of facets in circles.

[@herenow2895]

Use silicon for the mold. Cut into the silicone with a scalpel to release, but only part way down each side. The cut faces will fit back together perfectly. Make a two piece outer support for the mold using fibre glass. The two halves can be clamped around the mold to keep it all together for casting. Use a mold release agent.

[@undefinedCat]

maybe you meant "silicone", silicon is the thing in your cpu

[@Laisch]

When exporting from F360 as a mesh you have to higher the polygon count for better quality mesh export. I don't know how resin slicers work, but most slicers for FDM are able to handle step files also and with the step format you don't have any polygons. For a reusable mold you could use 2K silicon 😉

[@user-lz8fm4dt2o]

😢😢😊😊😅😅😮😮😮🎉🎉😂😂❤❤

[@Antiextremistdude]

I do a lot of curvy stuff and I like to specify 360 or 720 for my loft detail, but sometimes need to go even higher depending on the curves. Also the splines control the detail depending on how many points you assign to them. The final meshes have polys about 1mm squared which is easily sanded by hand.

[@BillySugger1965]

Super video, thank you! You can make a positive master with 3D printing and then make a silicone elastomer mould rather like your wax mould. But you can use a silicone mould many times. If you can cast epoxy in your shop, you can cast silicone. You need to build a wooden box for the silicone mould you can screw together and unscrew to take apart, to keep the mould rigid while casting, and cut wavy lines through the silicone to split it into several sections for releasing. It’s a good process for batch production 😊

[@nonchip]

your mold release issue is most likely that the spray is just way too thin a surface because both resins are essentially the same material (just with a different "cure starter"), so they'll just LOVE to attach to each other. for a big part like this a negative mold of a completely different material (like your wax or some silicone or such) is pretty much the only safe option.

[@satyrsmodels8029]

He should have used a PVC rubber then the mold would have been reuseable.

[@JohnDoew-hz8qt]

silicon spray that will cure in air , is better solution, I guess

[@nonchip]

​@@JohnDoew-hz8qt just dont pour the same material the mold is made of into it (especially when the "material" is "bunch of chemistry just waiting for any excuse to weld those together on a submolecular scale") , problem solved. :P also the usual issues of "measure once cut twice" still apply, eg having *any* design process going into your mold (draft angles, etc) tends to help a lot ;)

[@surfcello]

For those interested, a little more depth on how LEDs work: It's not really that the semiconductor jiggles about to release light; rather it's the position and size of a gap in the range of possible energy states of the electrons in the material that is the defining feature of semiconductors. Conducting electrons fall into bound states in the lattice, giving off the energy lost as light. The size of the band gap determines the wavelength (colour) of the emitted light. The reason the device has to be a diode is that its poles need to be made up of what we call carrier-selective materials: one side is electron-rich (n-doped), which makes it easier for electrons to move about, while the other is electron-deficient (hole-rich, p-doped), which makes it easy for electron vacancies (holes) to move. Where these two sides meet, electrons move from the n side to the p side, giving off light in the process, until a voltage is built up that is high enough to prevent more movement. When an _external_ voltage is applied across the device in the "forward" direction (opposite to the internal voltage), this keeps supplying electrons to the n side and extracting them from the p side, thus preventing the internal voltage from fully building up, and thereby allowing more and more electrons to move across the junction, falling from the conduction band into the valence band and giving off light. Some types of LEDs have a thin layer of intrinsic (neither p nor n) semiconductor in the middle that acts as a quantum well to trap electrons and holes and encourage recombination in that layer. In this case, the band gap, and thus, the colour, is ultimately determined by the material of the intrinsic layer and its thickness.

[@eefvreeland9472]

Thanks. This was the answer I was looking for (but not find in the vid) 👍

[@taylord1337]

Instead of wax you could use silicon resin. Then you can reuse it and it will be much easier to remove.

[@England91]

I was thinking the same

[@codures]

If you wanna go for that 100w LED, you might wanna try distilled water cooling. You'll have a very small heat exchanger underneath the LED embedded in the epoxy, while the pipes will be led's terminals at the same time. The cooling/pumping of the fluid can be done in the base of the lamp for flawless esthetics...

[@chrisw1462]

Probably a good idea... a 100 watt LED will burn the resin easily if it's not cooled enough.

[@steve-paul]

I was thinking he could use a water block and use copper pipes with it.

[@codures]

@@steve-paul given that a 100w led throws about 15w heat, the system should be able to withstand 20w of heat. That amount of heat is more likely to be evacuated through a convection heat exchanger at the bottom using one small aquarium pump (cheap and effective). IMO it can't be done w/o the pump.

[@revmsj]

Perhaps a double layer peltier cooler (TEC) with a heatsink or heat tubes if you want to remotely locate the heat sink.

[@codures]

@@revmsj afaik heat pipes are common for short distance (some centimeters, not meters; I guess one could calculate ΔT with online tools). The Peltier elements (the rated ones, not the Alistuff things) come with efficiency/temperature and temperature/current charts. The rest is pure math to describe minimum power supply ratings 😉.

[@neilaldenarmstrong9806]

That LED is mega-awesome! Great job!

[@Slorida05]

Thats a really awesome idea i would love to give this a try myself. Awesome video

[@HERRESHOFFGSD]

Amazing project. great video. Best part is to learn from our mistakes. Thank you for sharing

[@halbvoll1]

As a technician i love this idea. Maybe you find the time to make a video how you made your vacuum chamber

[@grigoriperelman8976]

Is it in eletrica

[@Nobe_Oddy]

VERY UNIQUE!! I LOVE IT!

[@GeekSpeakDesign]

Dude, love your videos so much!

[@thelongislandguy]

Love this crazy project!

[@norooron333]

Man liked the project and the mold looked after fixed like a cool glass for water very nice indeed👍

[@kyfiss9176]

Your English is improving so muchhhh! Great project and love seeing your videos pop up in my feed

[@mtnsofutah]

VERY NICE JOB, thank you

[@williambryce8527]

Brilliant channel and great work!

[@gt8m]

Cant wait for you to make it big man. Best wishes from Greece.

[@ProAudioIQ]

So cool! Thanks!

[@jacobrollins37]

Very cool project. But just so you know the reason your resin mold stuck to your resin LED is because they are both resin. Happy to see your second mold came out so well.

[@CoolAsFreya]

Pretty interesting that regular diodes emit infrared light like an LED, but did you know that solar panels are also LEDs? If you put enough voltage across them they will light up (but not well) also an LED will generate a little power when a bright enough light hits it!

[@revmsj]

Solar panels also emit infrared light when a voltage is applied. This is why your inverters are diode protected so you don’t radiate off your electricity in IR at night after the sun goes down.

[@Bleats_Sinodai]

Also high power can transistors will produce some power if you delid them and shine light into their dye.

[@johnburgess2084]

If you put enough voltage across ANYTHING, it will light up! (At least for a time; though the time might be only slightly greater than 0.)

[@SamusSelf-Destruct]

This is amazing. I am definitely going to incorporate this into my next lighting design project.

[@shadowr2d2]

Thank you for posting this video. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work 🎉.

[@alllove1754]

Awesome finished product! Now you need to make your own giant laser pointer using blue LD.

[@GetRealwithMike]

Hey Rulof, Mistakes are more important to discovery and learning than opening the internet or a book and having the answer. You are a fantastic teacher. I am a professor and I see a genius in you. Can you make a video about a flat LED about the same size? I make signs and use the strips. They look terrible. One surface mount light in the center would be better. Thanks

[@Cheesecake1559]

U can use the 3d printed version as a positive instead of a negative like u did, make the mould out of silicone rubber from the positive with a little wax and I'm sure It's gonna work perfectly for many many casts

[@johnkoury1116]

Super cool!!

[@TheDixlexxik]

I didn't know you made a switch of channel ! I just realized that I never got notified of the new videos coming out from your last channel … always love what you made and still do !

[@jimkimbrell4878]

Man, I love your builds and ideas. Excellent job

[@user-nq3yt1ee2u]

Very interesting and beautiful work, thank you

[@muhammadalikashifkhan5556]

the best KZbin suggestion ❤

[@mark879]

It's so smooth and polished, you can stick it in your ... kitchen. Lol! Super cool idea! I want one.

[@user-xc2yc3vz5e]

perfect! keep up the great work!

[@manuel11341]

Amazing!

[@crazy-es8tr]

really cool video, it came out really well.

[@KingBikiOberoiOfficial]

Keep it up sir!!!

[@nanographics21]

Excellent Job Done....

[@joemurray8902]

Very cool!

[@gunsmachine5011]

NICE PROJECT MAN, CONGRATULATIONS

[@repairstudio4940]

That is just awesome!!!🎉❤

[@Protocol-X]

Interesting project. Based on the issues, I would suggest just making a silicone mold. And gilt some mold selease spray or powder. Silicone is very cheap there days and would also allow you to add a way to hold the internals easier. Your first approach was better, though, since you are not using a pressure chamber, the internals should be placed before adding resin to prevent introducing air bubbles from submerging the parts. The only thing I did not like "just cosmetic purposes" is the led you added. I probably would have used a cob led strip and lined it on the tathode and anode edge for a more realistic look and feel, but maybe then it would look to plain for use as a lamp. Either way, it's still a nice video, thanks.

[@denispol79]

Nice! I would also polish the LED, to get less stray light and a brighter collimated beam. Also I hope the resin won't get hazy or yellowish from the quite energetic blue wavelength of light.

[@Psychlist1972]

The resin slicer just lights up the pixels it's given, so it's not the slicing process. I can see the facets in the faces in your exported file. I don't know how Fusion 360's export works, but I know in Rhino 3d I can specify the resolution of the exported file, which then impacts the faces on the STL model. You can likely do the same in 360.

[@johnbrewer318]

Fantastic!

[@eagle36791]

Nice. Pretty cool

[@r.dtechnical555]

Good work BRO 🎉

[@jonnyphenomenon]

This is AWESOME! time to invest in a silicone mold!

[@phillipgarner6354]

Love your videos bro.

[@tahseenanwar2109]

Excellent job 🎉

[@user-dn4do5lw3u]

Thank you for information

[@upalisamarasinghe7827]

smart idea. good job.

[@Sb129]

This was great~

[@mechsmantg]

One thing I have seen done when doing epoxy pours is to pour it down a glass rod into the mold to prevent bubbles getting picked up during the pour.

[@Jappmannen]

I think you have to make the mould slightly cone shaped and I also think you have to make a litte air tube in the bottom to apply some pressure when you want to release the LED.

[@FixitEasyDIY]

Incredible channel! Glad to find you my friend! Watching to the end ;)

[@bitlong4669]

Wicked cool!

[@alessandrocicogna88]

Grande ! Speriamo che l’algoritmo giri bene. Qualora non volessi impazzirti con l’inglese oltretutto esistono tantissime AI che ti creano in pochi minuti la voce in inglese per tutta la durata del video. Rendendo tutto super professionale :) Big up Rulof 🔝

[@middlebencher6954]

This is amazing 👏 🙌

[@mkepler5861]

hey Rulof, new sub, if you would like to make a reuseable mold, you will need to use proper mold release agents. at our shop after the mold is completed, then comes the preparation, the wax we use is Partall paste #2 made by Rexco, made in the USA. this paste is applied like you're waxing your car, I use my fingers to layout the wax very thin and uniformly, you can use a cloth rag or paper towel to remove the wax immediately after applying it, rub and buff to get it shining, then do this again 2 more times, at this point the mold is seasoned. last part, we use a PVA as the mold release the one we use is Part #67 PVA green made by Finish Kane, I don't know if this comes in small quantities, it may only come in one US gallon containers. another option is a mold release that comes in a spray can, should work. the first mold you made would have worked out perfectly, but needed the wax and a mold release. if you would like any additional info message me back. mike ps yeah I would definitely buy one, it would make a cool room light!!!

[@baconthevainglorious7371]

thanks for doing this rulof. I love your channel and how the comments try to help you get better. I can't believe the quality here, this has been amazing. One thing I'd suggest is perhaps ease off on the music by making it almost silent or totally silent during the parts where you are talking in the studio space towards the camera. A mix of music montages and no music sound only makes for a smooother flow imo. Otherwise I love the editing, it is super easy to follow. Thank you again for your work good sir :)

[@gockemannen]

love your DYI

[@sleepyhead9756]

Pretty neat. Thanks

[@007007niki]

That’s great, I was wondering the other day if a led could be made large like that. It would seem to make great landing lights for a airport

[@Alfred-Neuman]

He didn't make the LED, he just bought one on Amazon... Even a 10 yo can buy some shit on Amazon. Not impressed...

[@avocadoarms358]

You need a lot More mould release, or get a silicone based spray lubricant, worked amazing for epoxy releasing. The proper way of doing it would be to print a positive then make a negative in silicone mould then cast the resin in the silicone mould. It’s telhmpreture resistant.

[@mothMagnets]

Thermal expansion between the different materials could potentially be an issue. Or just heating up one part of the resin too quickly. I also wondered if UV from the LED could damage resin over time, but they likely don't produce short enough wavelengths or in enough power. Like the intro by the way.

[@derbemobile]

Thanks for the video, sir!

[@richardbriansmith8562]

Awesome Video🙂

[@screwsnutsandbolts]

Excellent videos ! 👍

[@pilotsempor]

amazing creative idea I like it👍

[@tymz-r-achangin]

Thanks for the video. Easily got our thumbs up! Enjoyed watching it with our kids and hoping these types of videos will inspire them to be craftsman of some sort instead of them wasting their life with video games and shallow tv shows

[@GregAtlas]

In fusion you can control the quality of the part (controls the smoothness) when exporting. Even then it can be helpful to import the model into another program and apply a smoothing modifier. 3DS Max for example has Turbosmooth. Polygons are, by their nature, flat surfaces. You really only get the illusion of roundness when you have more of them and they're smaller. More polygons/vertacies means more detail, but it also takes longer to process and render the model and can cause problems with some slicers if you have too many (depending on the slicer and your computer specs).

[@87697]

Nice one 👍

[@kurtvara4918]

Very Cool Idea.

[@leostablet]

Awesome. You have a new subscriber. Cool.

[@lfmlokal-fernsehen9461]

Cool!

[@RockyX13]

I really enjoyed your video. You have a new subscriber!

[@salb2086]

Great work and craftsmanship, awesome idea for a lamp and all that. Now, I hope that that thing lights up as a 100w traditional bulb would instead of plainly consume 100w, that would be counterintuitive to the purpose of LED tech I guess. Well done. Good luck.

[@mfvancop3371]

This was a great video about how LED works! I work a lot with 3D prints, both the resin style (that you use) and FDM Style. The reason the model had jagged edges is because of the export settings, check them and set them as high as you can for your software. I am going to sound annoying for this but PLEASE when handling uncured UV resin, wear gloves and a mask, this stuff can cause some long term lung issues and can damage your skin. Really cool video otherwise! i would like to get into mold making at some point:)

[@osbornevoices]

I came to say the same about the gloves & mask, people underestimate the carcinogenic compounds in these processes unfortunately

[@Longyearbye]

Great Result made by a sympathic man!

[@joralte5600]

It was really fun to watch the video. So how did you retrieve the LED from the first one that failed? Also,, you could have remove the cast and make a bigger one and reuse the first one.

[@notsosunnyd8669]

Another awesome video, I always love to see what you get up to and appreciate the explanations

[@suprememasteroftheuniverse]

What's awesome in clickbait? He didn't make a giant LED and also didn't explain how one actually works because he clearly doesn't know.

[@maha-madpedo-gayphukumber1533]

For decades no one told us that this is possible. But you did..👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@markhodgson2348]

Great now make a matrix display 😎 I've discovered your channel and it's amazing I like the fridge compressor vacuum pump tip

[@imranyassin298]

في كل مرة اعاهد الله ان اقاطع فيديوهاتك .... لاكن يحدث ان اشاهدها .... فاندم مرة اخرى

[@althuelectronics5158]

Powerful😎💪

[@aahnafiya]

you can use the electrodes as metal pipe to flow water to cool the LED inside resin blocks.

[@lightscrafts]

Cool! 😃

[@jeffhaskin895]

1. adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" in fusion to make your prints smooth circles. 2. Use silicone molds, resin won't stick to it.

[@_BangDroid_]

Dude! You have one of the coolest intros on KZbin

[@dez7726]

I figured the answer was wax but I thought you were going to coat the other mold but the new method seems better as you can recreate the mold with the same material over and over. I really want to make some UV off road lights with this. how much heat do you need to dissipate? I love the tools by the way, the slow lathe and vacuum pump are brilliant

[@BerzerkaDurk]

The real answer is silicone. When he started talking about pouring epoxy into a wax mold, the first thing I thought was "does he realize that epoxy gets hot while it's cooling??". It's an exothermic chemical reaction. He got lucky. I also wouldn't recommend he use that light for any more than a few minutes. The aluminum part is a heat sink. LEDs get HOT.

[@austinduff8833]

subscribed good job