Run and Gun Audio Safety Track Adapter (Attenuator) for Video Cameras

[@WillemVerb]

Really nice video, I absolutely love the combination of diy and film making on your channel. Very original :)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thanks Willem!

[@ImaginetMedia]

Another brilliant tutorial, Caleb. I learn something each and every time I visit your channel.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thank you for the kind words ImaginetMedia! Means a lot.

[@JesseDriftwood]

I just want someone to make and sell these. Would this work with a mono Lav mic input? Essentially splitting the signal and then knocking half of it down?

[@JWS1968]

As you just taking a signal and splitting it into two, yes. But that's not stereo a stereo signal has two different signals so all you would be doing is duplicating the same signal then sending one left and the other right at a lower volume. Which for our purposes is all we need. You're right though, someone should be producing these and selling them. I'd buy one.

[@bdonne07]

You've been killing it lately with these awesome hacks! Keep em coming--you deserve more subs!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thanks Brendan!

[@davidohland]

Just ordered the necessary parts =) Really liking these diy camera tips and tricks!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Nice! Happy attenuating! And thank you for the kind words David.

[@mike8418preview]

Never heard of the word "Attenuator" before! Many Thanks for the knowledge Caleb! Really awesome little tool to use for ultra safety on the field! Great content as always ;)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thank you Mike!

[@martinsimpson7297]

Thanks for giving us all another great idea Caleb; I ended up using your method to modify a Boya MM1 mic to give two mono outputs, with one normal, and one attenuated. Keep up the good work :)

[@DanielRicardo42]

Hey Caleb, this is an awesome hack, so I thought I'd help you out with a formula to determine the resistor value in order to achieve different attenuations. This formula determines the value of the smaller resistor, while the larger one remains at 1k ohm. R stands for resistor value, and A stands for the desired attenuation: R = [1000 * (10 ^ (-A / 20))] / [1 - (10 ^ (-A / 20))] This should give you a nice range of attenuations which you can achieve, just remember that you can't find resistors in any given value, so you may have to settle for a close but not exact value. If you still can't get the desired attenuation using this formula, try increasing the value of the larger resistor, and simply plug this value instead of the 1000 in the formula. Another simple modification which you can do, is to replace the smaller resistor with a 1K potentiometer. This would allow you to actively change the amount of attenuation on a single device (although you would lose some of that small form factor).

[@dslrvideoshooter]

That is impressive Daniel! I wouldn't even know how to approach that equation! Math was never my strong suit beyond basic algebra.

[@cpt_stvn]

Wow, Caleb just took it to another level lol

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Ha! Thanks Steven!

[@himanshuyeole7579]

What ohm should i buy too attenuate upto -40db..??

[@ssssss-m9o]

Thanks Caleb! i watch this video before i throw away my microphone because lot of noises, haha This Video Save my Wallet. LOL

[@noenken]

Now that this video is out for almost two years, has still nobody made this into a product?

[@JacobVossFilms]

Wow this would have saved me so many times. I was thinking about getting a second microphone to do something like this, now I can go without 😊. Love these videos. Definitely gonna be making one of these soon

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I wish I had thought of this sooner myself! Happy Attenuating! Glad you're enjoying my videos :-)

[@Ranger7Studios]

When soldering the jacks together, is there a specific number to solder to another number? My jacks have the numbers 1,2 and 3 on them. Do these correlate to positive/negative, or does it not matter which point of contact to which?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Hey Ranger! Yes it does matter. The most important one is the ground. Usually 1 is ground, 2 is left and 3 is right. If left and right are mixed up you'll just hear them reversed, but if ground is wired wrong you won't get audio. You should be able to test the wiring and hear if things are correct.

[@Ranger7Studios]

Thanks Caleb! I'll post a video when the mod is done.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Sweet!

[@Tetracarbon]

This is brilliant. This is exactly what I need with my Zoom H1!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thanks Phillip!

[@GregsGarage]

Very cool Caleb.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thank you sir Greg!

[@Juone87]

Hey Caleb, I'm loving the content you put out - simply amazing! I'm a filmmaker who does DIY-projects as well but haven't filmed any of them yet. Noticed that you have the price tag still on your soldering "third hand" holding tool seen at 02:31 :) Can't wait to see your next DIY-project - need to find some time to build few of these with different db levels. Thinking of a solution to mount this piece either on my camera, microphone or recorder so that it won't hang in mid air. This also works as a safety if someone accidentally stumbles on the cord and pulls out the connectors - its easier to replace this attenuator then the connectors on the camera body or the microphone.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Hey Joonas! Thank you for the kind words. And yes, bought that helping hands stand years and years ago and never took the tag off. You could make a small box instead of a cylinder for use with a camera. Using an angled male 3.5mm as the output connector would probably work really well.

[@Juone87]

Angled male 3.5mm sure sounds nice to be placed flush with the camera body. But this however makes the connector in the camera body in more danger to be damaged if the audio cable is pulled with force. Strain relief for the camera body connector is one of the best by-product-features your attenuator has because it is connected with a short separate cable and works as the first shield for possible damage. I could connect the attenuator into camera rig/cage with some sort of a pen holder and a screw/ziptie. This way the attenuator can be swapped into a different db-level one if needed. And the second reason why this angled connector wouldn't work for me is that I'd like to monitor the audio from camera and the USB-port is right below the 3.5mm port in my 60D and the flushed attenuator would be in the way :( pointing the attenuator away from the camera body for making room for the USB-cable would only put the 3.5mm connector into more danger of being damaged if one would bump into you while filming.

[@Centeoprogmb]

Great project! Definitely will try it out!

[@Jake12399]

Can I buy one of these? It's so helpful!

[@actingcoachjohnpallotta3645]

Great video as all of your work is great. I like this idea but like it better f it was on Amazon. is there anything you can recommend online

[@FalcoII]

Nice tutorial, I would be interested then how you manage this audio in post. I mean how you balance the too loud noise with your safety track during interview so it's not distracting for the viewer. I can assume that you basically replace the loud part with the -18db one and somehow normalize the audio?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I should do a video on the subject!

[@dizzystardust7452]

Great video, love the construction! But what if I wanted to attenuate both Chanel’s?

[@djaymigz98]

Do it to both

[@renarsvilnis]

Love theses DIY gear build videos!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Me too! Now I just need to finish my GH4 mod...

[@nicholasjude7937]

awesome video Caleb Pike !!!! :)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thank YOU for watching Nicholas!

[@DiMastaX12]

Super!!! Very usefull video. Thanks, Caleb!!!

[@DavidGriffin]

Caleb...I know your a busy man... But is there anyway I could pay you to make me 4 of those? I have mono lavs and I have 2 trashed projects and no time to do over or make those. Or do you know someone who sells them already made?

[@ToastedSynapseGaming]

Also posted a similar comment on another video that you did (about the Saramonic Smart Rig). I'm eager to find out if this Safety Attenuator will work if I place it before the Smart Rig -> Will the camera still get a Right Channel that's -18 if it's passing throught the Smart Rig (does it work with that kind of stereo attenuated input)?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Yes, the right channel should retain the -18db attenuation.

[@CoolerQ]

I wonder how this plays with AGC in cameras. Especially in DSLRs that don't have a manual gain control for their mic jacks. Have you found that they tend to apply the same gain to both inputs, keeping this as a safety track, or do they tend to do AGC separately on the two channels (negating the -18 dB effect of the right channel)?

[@GearGlassesGadgets]

Great info, thanks!

[@BrotherBloat]

that's a great DIY project! Thanks Caleb!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thank YOU for watching!

[@BrotherBloat]

+DSLR Video Shooter always :)

[@Mastechart]

amazing .... thanx for your awesome Simple videos

[@Albanez39]

Didn't work for me. The microphone works the same way, both channels at equal gain. EDIT: Success!!! I only tried it on my PC with Audacity, not realizing the jack ports on PCs are mono, and one of the channels gets duplicated. Works like a charm with the camera. I used a 3.5mm jack cable (female to male). It's a lot harder to solder two little wires together, but I couldn't find female jacks with a cylindric shape (only rectangular ones used for PCs). Used a long and thin marker cap to cover everything up and it looks pretty good. Thanks a lot Caleb!! :D

[@ToastedSynapseGaming]

Also I would like to ask if you have the designs for the same kind of attenuators but with other values ( I'm looking for a -10dB instead of -18dB)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Sorry, not smart enough to know. I'd ask this guy for help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYuzqmSVms-gntE

[@musicoscomexcelencia]

thank you

[@teymthebeast]

Killer tip! Thanks man.

[@brentthomasaustin]

Great tutorial!

[@gfraser7]

Very cool! Thanks a lot!

[@luboyanev]

Wow, that's really cool! Do you think it can work with a Røde Videomic pro (which is only mono)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Worked on my Rode VideoMic Pro!

[@luboyanev]

***** Nice! Usually with the VMP in the editing software, it only has one channel and I have to duplicate it to the other to get it to be stereo... that's why I'm a little confused if it can make it from a single channel to a dual channel..

[@dslrvideoshooter]

That is odd, because my VMP is stereo... Or at least has mono spread left and right. What interface are you using to hook your VMP up to your computer? The mono might be there...

[@luboyanev]

***** It happens when I plug it directly to the camera (Sony A7sII) and then after I transfer the footage and start editing, the audio is only in one of the channels

[@beatsbyandrew]

Beautiful

[@cinemagraphstudio]

How much watt in resistor 1000 ohm and 150 ohm???

[@arronasvenegas5035]

thank you for these helpful tips!:)

[@dejffjed]

Hey, Caleb. First thank you for all your videos. Now - do you think that upper class recorders such as Zoom H5 or Tascam you produce so significantly better sound than Zoom H1 with your XLR modification?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

They probably do.

[@bengregoire]

oh man! I have that shirt :) Great video

[@MattScottVisuals]

So sick, thanks heaps :)

[@karl0520]

Hey Caleb! When is that "GH4 DIY Top Handle" video going to be uploadet?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

2 weeks!

[@trevorpinnocky]

I'm curious how this would be modified if you wanted to attenuate both channels? cheers.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I'm not smart enough to say :-S I'm sure it would be easy to attenuate both channels the same amount, but attenuating each channel differently would be a little more difficult.

[@trevorpinnocky]

***** that's actually what I'm referring to. Right now, if you wanted to run say an H4n into a DSLR you'd have to buy a $40-$50 attenuation cable because the input signal is too high. I have all the part to make this. It just seemed like it would be fun to try and attenuate both line by say -15 or -20 dB. Cheers.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Ah I see. You might be able to do the same thing I did with the right channel on both channels. The only difference might be that you don't need the second 150 Ohm resistor. So you would need two 1K resistors and one 150K resistor.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

That would be my guess anyway...

[@trevorpinnocky]

👍🏽 thanks

[@JWS1968]

It's all very well saying red wire black wire but that means nothing if you don't explain which connectors are which on the actual jacks and how to tell the difference. Which wire is going to the tip and which to the ring?? and how does that affect which channel is attenuated???

[@AlexVisuals]

Is there one we can just buy, cus I don't have a soldering iron

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Maybe I'll make a few...

[@robsquad_films]

Would this work going from a lav to the attenuator to my camera (a7s)?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Yes it will!

[@robsquad_films]

Awesome thanks!

[@FernandoHStahelin]

Awesome bro!

[@_Jeremyxlewis]

this is amazing!!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thanks Jeremy!

[@Adam-wf9iq]

-10dB Resistor ?

[@alexpuro81]

Can i just buy it ?

[@hoggif]

That's one great idea!

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Thanks Hoggif!

[@shtrudel-pu1cm]

if i wont -20 db Attenuator,what the exact calculation? tnx

[@harviecz]

i use this calculator: www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-voltagedivider.htm you enter input voltage 1V, your dividing resistors and input impedance (approx 1000 to 2000ohm) and you will get output voltage. You then calculate dB from output voltage compared to that original 1V

[@rowangallagher]

Anywhere to buy this?

[@ThePhotodiver]

What gauge wire did you use?

[@dslrvideoshooter]

20 or 23 I think?

[@mhussain1942]

Can I purchase this from you bro ?

[@rowangallagher]

Link for 2x 3.5mm Female jacks is dead.... Only part I can't find.

[@pixelpearlproduction538]

U r the man

[@markandapps]

Thanks for the video Caleb. You're really giving the frugalfilmmaker a run for his money with your videos. Rofl

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Haha! I don't know about that! That fellow is one hell of a DIY'er!

[@JWS1968]

Awesome

[@lembeltran1738]

Please make an instructional video on how to hack the GoPro 7 mic adapter.

[@CoronaVirus-nx9et]

Where is the sound sample?

[@markshirley01]

is possible to buy something similar :-)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I'm thinking about making a few to sell if there is enough interest.

[@MoritzHolzinger]

yes that would be awesome

[@PostColorGear]

put a question out over at the Facebook page. I am sure there would be a lot of interest though, especially reading these comments. Hell, I know how to do all of this, and I might even buy one :P

[@markshirley01]

Caleb your America's version of 'M' :-)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Haha! That is an honor!

[@eladbari]

yeah! how did you learn all this electronics stuff? i mean, you can probably pick it up on a few tutorials here & there in general..but to come up with tools that can help videographers? thats something else..it requires a larger understanding of how it all works. and i bet that's quite satisfying

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I used to tinker basic electronics when I was a kid (taking apart beta tape players etc) and in more recent years got back into it. KZbin makes it much easier these days!

[@PooHPC]

i need some credit for this video...

[@dslrvideoshooter]

?

[@PooHPC]

nah I commented about attenuated cables when u did that $15 upgrade for the zoom h1...no shade. just talking, pay me no mind.

[@dslrvideoshooter]

Oh yeah you did!

[@Jwilkinsonstudios]

This is a really cool diy project. But for anyone who isn't super handy, you can buy these for around $10.

[@skaterat321]

Link please?

[@Jwilkinsonstudios]

www.amazon.com/Hosa-ATT448-Input-Attenuator-Female/dp/B000K67U52/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1471375744&sr=8-5&keywords=attenuator 3.5mm are a little more expensive I guess - www.amazon.com/Sescom-LN2MIC-ZOOMH4N-Microphone-Attenuation-Cameras/dp/B004U3S1JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471375914&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5+attenuator

[@Jwilkinsonstudios]

same cable cheaper, have no idea on seller tho www.markertek.com/product/ln2mic-zoomh4n/sescom-ln2mic-zoomh4n-3-5mm-line-to-mic-9-inch-dslr-cable-for-zoom-h4-pro-series-recorders

[@Kindersama]

Yes, but these cables attenuate on both channels, as opposed to only one. But the good thing is some have selectable attenuation (-10, -20 and -30dB).

[@rowangallagher]

Yeah, that's not what this is. That is for both channels.

[@TheKhaniProject]

hi

[@MoritzHolzinger]

wow

[@Kindersama]

Wow, great idea! I'd buy 2 from you for $20 :) (I'm not an electronic thingy guy...)

[@dslrvideoshooter]

I might be making these for sale, just need to make it worth the time!

[@deonvnzl]

I'm interested too!

[@guillermoetc]

Thank u Caleb! Incredibly usefull and cheap. I'll need to conect my Tascam DR-100 to the new GH5, but i'm from Spain and weirdly we don't have any brand here making THIS little cable: www.ebay.es/itm/Kopul-ACDR-35-Line-to-Mic-Attenuator-Cable-/271355081870?hash=item3f2e05f48e:g:YZQAAOSw3ydVjKsv (almost 40$ with shipping&taxes) It's a 35db attenuator so I could go from the Line output of the Tascam to mic input in the GH5. I'll try to adapt your design, but the questions are: 1)Do I have to do the same attenuation you did with the right channel but this time in both channels? 2)Hoy can I achieve -35db instead of -18db? What are the maths inside?

[@TechProof]

First Lel

[@588ta]

not handy can I just purchase this from you.

[@nicksweeney2316]

Where's team early at

[@Glennpictures]

Awesome until DIY came into play

[@dubariyajignesh786]

Dude. Zoom h1 is very expensive. so it would be better if you go a giveaway contest. for it.. it is really expensive as a indian. I want it because i am stsrting unboxing channel

[@rowangallagher]

I'll give you one.