Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery

Here is my take on how I use Electrolysis for removing rust when restoring vintage machinery.

[@therealuncleevil]

I have been doing a lot of research on this process because I want setup a small tank for some parts. Of all the videos I have watched I have to say yours is probably the most informative. You actually got into the chemistry side of it to not only explain how it works, but why. Thank you for that.

[@shannonstebbens6992]

Keith, we use this process to restore old motorcycle fuel tanks that are rusty inside. We put the anode (a length of steel angle connected to the + lead) inside a length of PVC pipe to prevent shorting, insert the pipe into the tank which is filled with a solution of water and washing soda. The whole tank becomes the cathode and is connected to the (-) lead from the power source. It sometimes takes a couple of weeks putting 25 amps from a battery charger into the solution to come completely clean; the anode is cleaned about once a day. Once the tank is clean, it is drained, flushed and dried. Optionally a sealer is applied but not always. It works great.

[@MikeSmith-vb8ul]

25 amps over a couple weeks? Sounds like this takes a lot of electrical energy...

[@CharlesLeo]

What type of sealer do you use?

[@CharlesLeo]

@@MikeSmith-vb8ul It can but it has practical applications on complicated parts or items which are difficult to replace.

[@shannonstebbens6992]

@@CharlesLeo I have not found a great sealer for the inside of the tanks. There are several on the market.

[@CharlesLeo]

@@shannonstebbens6992 I should have clarified that I was wondering in general for exterior use.

[@serendipitiouscritter7635]

Thank you! I saw this process here and decided to give it a try on an OLD leather stitcher, one that was used for saddlers ect... The flywheel wouldn't budge when I found it in the remains of a burned out barn. I used a plastic trash can and 2 old computer power supplies. I let it spin for almost 48 hours. Just peering into the trash can I 'knew' that I had an interesting piece of yard art; BUT, when I pulled it out the wheel turned and after the remainder of the afternoon and a good part of the night not to mention a bloody set of knuckles I now have a usable machine....I just finished stripping it down and I wanted to thank you before I go to town for wax - I want to soak all the pieces in hot paraffin so that it stays usable! So, thanks again and nice to meet you!

[@asressaraia2340]

Thank you for a wonderful presentation on the use of Electrolysis for rust removal. Not only good information, well presented but also with self effacement and humility that is so rare but so endearing. thank you Asress

[@lordenki5952]

Completely agree. I loved this video.

[@JunkMikesWorld]

Keith, An excellent job on your explanation. One thing that I think you missed is to warn the viewers not to use stainless steel sacrificial anodes, as this would turn your salt water solution into hexavalent chromium. This is a very hazardous material and you can not easily dispose of it safely.

[@trickcyclists]

No stay away from that shit.. you're right there. Erin Brockovich will be all over your case if you start with that stuff :-)

[@_Undecided_]

Does it matter if the piece that you are cleaning has some stainless steel on it ?

[@xander9460]

Oof! Thanks! Close call x)

[@TechNed]

I suppose a chrome-plated part might also do that?

[@kennethkustren9381]

LOL !! SALT SOLUTION ?? WTF !! TRY BORAX. I USE SS ANODE AND CATHODE TO MAKE OXY-HYDROGEN, HHO, AKA... BROWNS GAS. AS FAR AS I KNOW ... IT MAKES PURE WATER AS IT COMBUSTS. I DUNNO WHICH ALLOY YOU USE... !!

[@edmedlin2936]

Good presentation. You got almost all the terminology correct. The main thing is that you explained clearly how to do it and got the desired results. Proud of you, Georgia Boy.

[@stephenwilson7641]

Hi Keith, As an amateur machinist and practicing engineer, I have watched most of your videos and greatly enjoy them. Keep up the good work! Regarding this video I felt I had to send you a comment. First, you will have faster results if you use copper wire (steel is not as good a conductor), which will lessen the amount of current being converted into heat. Also, spot or tack weld the end of the copper wire to your electrode to eliminate the contact resistance which also causes more heat. Secondly, regarding the USS Lexington, you might like to know that all ships with metal hulls have sacrificial anodes (called zincs) attached to the hull. As the ship moves through the earth's magnetic field a small current is induced and would eventually dissolve the screws (propellers) and/or rudder. Instead, the zincs erode and must be periodically replaced. Finally, I love it when an engineer such as yourself, takes the theory from physics or chemistry and uses it in a practical way to produce the desired result. Thanks again!

[@stephenwilson7641]

***** Keith, you are absolutely correct. I was specifically targeting the conductance of the wiring. I suggest that you keep the wiring out of the solution as you have done for your anodes in the video. For the cathode, a short stub of rebar tacked onto an edge or the bottom of the machined plate that sticks up out of the solution provides a connection point for the copper wire without tainting the solution. In any event, an excellent video and great example of practical science.

[@badazrod]

I've used this process on antique car parts. It works really well to a point. It is helpful with bringing sheet metal back to the point it can be patched. Thanks For Sharing!

[@VintageMachinery]

+badazrod I agree - it is good to a point. Not the only trick in my hat but it sure does have its place!

[@tenaxxband]

Thanks for this great video. I'm currently using this on my 1937 Studebaker President sedan rebuild. Just in the first few hours I couldn't believe the progress. Much easier than sandblasting and it doesn't damage the machined surfaces or warp the metal .

[@VintageMachinery]

+tenaxxband Glad to hear it is working for you. It has its place for sure!

[@larsonfam3861]

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org you didn't show where you connected the negative to the work material, I wondered if you needed to connect that in a certain way that kept the current coming into the piece and not just by passing into the anode? (or cathode, anode was negative right?) or does the current just proliferate through the electrolyte enough that a small amount of anode exposed before the connection doesn't cause issue?

[@graemedunstan2470]

[@irwinrommel4666]

Keith, first of all thank you for all your good hearted instruction, I enjoy watching and learning. This 58 year old dog can learn new tricks. I have improved this method by using a salvaged pool filter pump, the kids are grown so dad gets to use it.

[@randybonner7231]

Keith - thank you for this video - I followed your steps and my old cast iron caldron and griddle were de-rusted like magic.

[@jordansmith9718]

Excellent video, Kieth. I especially enjoyed hearing about the background of the process and its other applications.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Jordan Smith Thanks Jordan!

[@groefa]

Well done, Sir! Good video. I have some rusty machinery I have been procrastinating over... This inspired me to get going on it. Btw, it's not anoid and cathoid, it's anode and cathode. Thanks again! Cheers!

[@michaelfrederick9585]

KZbin is special...I went from watching videos about the video game Subnautica to ending up here watching a 30 minute video on rust removal. Great video by the way.

[@dananelson3534]

Thanks for the video Keith. That's some hunk of metal. Like what you do restoring old machinery. Our world has become so disposable.

[@VintageMachinery]

Thanks Dana!

[@pegbars]

It's "cathode" and "anode," my friend - not cathoid and anoid. :) I'm really enjoying your videos, however. You are a very talented, skilled, and knowledgeable craftsman. Thank you for taking the time to bring these informative programs to us. I am disabled, so you provide me an enjoyable way to work vicariously, through you and your shop adventures.

[@georgegordonbrown9522]

You seem to have a problem with his dialect, my dear.

[@joshprice6954]

George Gordon brown I live in nc and I say cathode and anode but I do say silenoid instead of solenoid .

[@georgegordonbrown9522]

@@joshprice6954 I had to search what solenoid means. But i do appreciate the value of cultural diversity - local dialects that is. The communists in my country have made dialects go extinct. Thanx for your response.Stay safe.

[@kotjmf1968]

Cultural Diversity and "Dialect are stupid jokes and have nothing to do with pronouncing words properly.

[@sirtango1]

You are right it is anode and cathode. Also check the galvanic table. You need to use an anode lower on the galvanic table that the cathode.

[@craigspicer4296]

Kieth i have done the experiment in year. This is such a straight forward recap on the subject. So visual and thank you.

[@48wilber]

It's one thing to show us what to do,,,, But your explanation of How it works,, and what's going on the whole time.,,, Is extraordinary!! (and the added safety tips!) Thank You!!!

[@Blazer02LS]

Chemistry is fun... For folks looking for "Washing Soda" Your local pool supply places will have it as do most of the box stores. It is cleverly disguised though. Look for PH +, or PH UP. That is Sodium Carbonate. It is used to raise the PH levels in pools. I've bought it in 80 pound bags for 20-30 dollars.

[@camilocolantuono9624]

Blazer02LS

[@kennethkustren9381]

washing soda AKA. BORAX

[@Blazer02LS]

Borax is sodium borate. Not the same as sodium carbonate. It will work but they are different chemicals

[@sshep7119]

Keith, great explanation of this process. Many people do not know of this process or realize its value in maintaining surface quality. I do have a suggestion that may help you with larger items like this. There is a tool called an electric burnisher, it is an angle grinder with a 4" roll on it. The rolls are available in the scotch-brite material and work very well for finishing this type of part. Metabo has one as well as other import companies.

[@12345mike6789]

I watched every minute here, You my friend are so very smart & such a wonderful teacher. Thanks ......Edit I subscribed

[@VintageMachinery]

+Mike's DIY Projects & More Thanks for the note and thanks even more for the subscription! I hope that you enjoy my channel!

[@magneticatastrophy]

It's true that this subject has been done to death, but you had some information to add even so. Great video!

[@carlamckenzie3985]

Keith Rucker Thank you for mentioning the USS Lexington CVA16. That was my dad's ship. He was the radar operator. How awesome, I knew they were using electrolysis on it and was thinking of that while you were speaking.

[@andywright2606]

Great video Keith, thanks for sharing. I'm looking to remove surface rust from car brake hubs/rotors and calipers and I didn't want to use acid based liquids as they would also start to degrade the finished surfaces. This looks like it will do a much better job. A lot slower than hydrochloric acid and such but much more controlled and safer. Also using acids has the potential to make these components more brittle and could cause failure into the future. Cheers Andy

[@derekspender7948]

Just an afterthought but an important one. Since watching engineering videos on KZbin I've seen quite a few descriptions of the process you described. Some good, some bad. What I liked about yours was the fulness of it. The description of the chemical process. Most times knowing the HOW is sufficient but when things go wrong, only knowing the WHY will get you through.

[@mrtimpowers]

Thanks Keith. Excellent demo. I have used this to restore old hand planes, chisels, saws, etc. i use a 3 amp DC power supply. Cathodic protection is also used on underground fuel tanks with a sacrificial anode.

[@peterkoch5105]

I like your way of explaining things. This video is proof of that again. Thumbs up. Greetings from Germany from Peter. Keep it up Keith.

[@scottleft3672]

19th century cast iron maschinery and tools.....gotta love it...... i first caught the bug when i got to sit in an old steam engine (traction engine) hooked up with a big belt pulley to a rock stamper/crusher on the goldfeilds in hill end in outback n.s.w.....i have been in awe ever since......good work saving that planer.

[@alanworland9478]

I have some parts cooking as I watched this - highly recommended! Good demo!

[@sportytone1]

Be sure to oil it liberally to prevent surface rust from forming. You may even oil it up & set it out in the hot sun to get oil in the pores of the cast iron to help preserve it.

[@NexusIncorporation]

i use a propane welder to heat up slowly works very well too (you sadly can heap out all machinery out in the sun on your own and tear down my Workshop to expose them to Sun is no option lol )

[@crowznest438]

That was fascinating about using the ocean as the solutuion to clean up the WWII ship hull. Thanks for the tidbits on history when you include those.

[@macbirt56]

Keith, great video but my comment is regarding your comment about submarines making their own oxygen. That was what I did. I was a bubblehead in the 1970's. We had a Treadwell 7L16 Oxygen Generator. You were close in your description of how we did it but we didn't take in seawater and get the oxygen out of it, not directly. We used demineralized water, that we made from seawater, otherwise the oxygen generator would completely shutdown from mineral build up. The electrolyte we actually used was Potassium Hydroxide or KoH. We ran a 1000 amps at 50 volts D.C. Anyway, great video. Keep 'em coming.

[@VintageMachinery]

+macbirt56 Very cool!

[@peterwilson6363]

Brilliant presentation thank-you very much - will now become a common process in my workshop. Peter, New Zealand

[@harryh1442]

Really enjoyed this. You have a very relaxing way about you while all the time giving out a good deal of information. I just started using this process a week ago on some woodworking tools purshased on Ebay - table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, shaper and drill press. All had little to no use but have a good deal of rust on the machined surfaces. Got my work cut out for me. Subscribed. Thank you!

[@Angus_McGyver]

I've seen other vids on this, but as usual yours is much clearer and more thorough explanation. Your talk about the machined surface has made me think. What I would really like to see is you hand scraping a surface to truth.

[@swarfrat311]

Thanks, Keith! Mr. Pete222 did some videos on electrolysis a while back. It's an interesting process. It looks like you have that saw table looking like new in no time. Thanks again! Regards, Dave

[@kyleackrill3405]

This is a phenomenal video Keith, extremely detailed and descriptive. I'm grateful to have come away learning a lot about Electrolysis.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Kyle Ackrill Thank you! I hope that you found it useful!

[@robertbrookes7126]

Concise detailed educated eloquent explanation. Thank you sir.

[@williamhall7618]

Very well presented and very informative could have listened to you all night. many thanks Keith

[@VintageMachinery]

+william hall Thanks William!

[@scheppach69]

For UK viewers washing soda is called soda crystals and is available at Asda for a quid per kilo bag.

[@forevercomputing]

Kevin Smith how about Tesco, Sainsbury's, Safeway, Co-op, Spa or Morrisons?

[@SteS]

Would Daz be okay?

[@googleuser859]

Could tide pods work?

[@SteS]

To answer my own question, it does. I've tried it on a diesel tank. Perfect result.

[@RogerBarraud]

Sodium Carbonate, in any English-speaking country.

[@not2fast4u2c]

That was neat to see the scale numbers showing up after cleaning ..Soon you will have the tilting table top in tip top shape !!!

[@derrick_builds]

Great use of a kid pool. Been looking at ways to clean drill pipe before welding. Thanks for the idea.

[@viscache1]

I’ve also used distilled water which is quite cheap... great lesson! This is something we all can use!

[@MrLukealbanese]

Another super video Keith. I've done a motorcycle tank myself and have never seen it on this scale!!

[@mrfester42]

Very detailed and it was explained very clearly and coherently. Well done.

[@TomWalterTX]

Thank You! As a kid, we used dry cleaning bags (super thin plastic) to capture the gas. We had fun with chemistry! Reminds me to check the TIG tank. It is 30 year old Stainless Steel Tank (300 series, not magnetic)... Need to look at the MSDS for the Miller Coolant...

[@davidhodge2459]

Great stuff Keith - thanks for the lesson...will try this on an old jointer I've got. I was wondering how I'd restore and I think you've shown me the way.

[@slots1407]

I've done this on a number of parts, the biggest being the blade of a press brake. I just used coarse salt and did it outside. It's easy and works well.

[@wb5rue]

Great video! Another big disadvantage of using regular table salt is that some of the chlorine will remain dissolved in the water and will react with the item you are trying to clean.

[@littlestworkshop]

Here's a tip, place some course plastic mesh on top of the table, put your electrodes on top. As long as you move the electrodes and mesh around a bit you will get much faster results as the current density will be much higher. I have also used rebar inside some plastic conduit with lots of slots cut into it with an angle grinder, you can take this protected bar and put it inside things or on top or whatever. You do need to seal the electrical connection though ideally so the wire does not rot.

[@littlestworkshop]

***** Leaving it longer works to a point but if the electrode is close to one part and far away from the other the current can end up so low it barely works even if you leave it for weeks. The paths through the water can be thought of like resistors, long ones have high resistance and short ones low resistance, the current takes the path of least resistance. This is why some people say it is line of sight but of course it is really that the far side is further away. Although we've not seen the finished result I'm sure it's fine but I wonder how much of the rust removal was actually the rubbing with scotchbrite.

[@clockguy2]

***** For the most part, Electrolysis works by line of sight from the closest rusted edge to the anode. Fiberglass window screening is another cheap separator between the rusty part and anodes if you are in a confined tub and are concerned about the two touching.

[@johndunney7181]

***** to

[@ChaosPootato]

I like that you took the time to get the chemistry right. That's proper educational content, props

[@BlueLineofthesky]

All your videos are so relaxing and informative and a pleasure to watch. Especially in this pandemic situation. I wish you all the best! God bless you!

[@fredyearian4968]

On my cast iron table saw I had some rust, probably not as bad as this one was, I cleaned it using steel wool with CRC22-6 spray. The CRC22-6 is available at Home Depot in the electrical dept. If I run wet wood over the saw I just spray the table lightly and rub it down with paper towel and it doesn't rust. The CRC22-6 goes into the pores of the metal and prevents further rusting. If you have a pair of rusty pliers, spray it into the joint and work the pliers. You will see the rust pump out of the joint and the pliers will work freely. I always wipe down trowels with this after using on concrete and mortar and they never rust. The CRC22-6 does not leave an oily film.

[@milwaukeeroadjim9253]

Subs also use "zincs" to protect the hull. Molten zinc is poured into a mold with a piece of strap steel running through. The steel is then welded to the hull under the superstructure. The zinc is etched away by the sea water protecting the steel hull.

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

Good effort. Nice to see this process applied to an object as large as this.It would make the process faster if you had a larger anode area, i.e. matching the rusted area, as then it won't cause a bottleneck of the ions reaching it.Also, to avoid the sludge created, some people use graphite on the anode or pieces of stainless steel. If you use stainless steel, always perform the electrolysis outside or in a well ventilated area.Short correction on the etymology of electrolysis: electrolysis = electron + lysis, both Greek and not Latin. Electron is the known electron, here used in the derived form "electro-" as a stem meaning basically "electric". Electron in its original usage means amber (which in turn is of Arabic origin) i.e. the fossilised tree resin. As amber was used in early experiments to produce static electricity by rubbing it, as recorded by Thales of Miletus in antiquity and much later by William Gilbert who coined the term "electricus" from it, it was that word that was used as a basis for describing, well, electric phenomena.Lysis means unbinding, breaking bond and by extension solution as in "problem solution" (even today). It is often used as the second part forming words such as dialysis, pyrolysis etc. where the chemical phenomenon of a substance being "dissolve" in constituent parts is implied. For example, in Greek today, the word for chemical solution is "dialyma" (in latin script) - the second part after "dia" comes from "lysis".All of the above can be found from Wikipedia or via Google of course.

[@KArts2004]

someone got his facts in order so compliments are in order! :-) thanks, great video!

[@VintageMachinery]

Frank-Michael Krause Thanks!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Keith, Very good video, lower current will produce finer surface cause then you end up with smaller crystals, takes longer but who cares, the thing been in storage for so long, a few days more won't change much. With very pitted mild steel the result isn't so good, too much of the original metal is gone missing, cant replace it all in a uniform surface. Thanks, Pierre

[@j.r.5130]

24:02 I thought this said catholic protection! Great video Keith, very interesting and informative.

[@celticgypsy6067]

I think molasses works better and also you can use it on delicate antique hardware and won’t loose any detail. Just rinse off the slurry comes up new and when dry paint on primer.

[@willwallacetree]

Thanks Keith, very nice description of the whole thing

[@zieketuute]

If I only had the knowledge, time, machinery and projects like Keith, I would be perfectly happy...

[@VintageMachinery]

Zieketuute My limiting factors are time and money.... I need a lot more of both!

[@magpieblue]

Outstanding video and information!

[@VintageMachinery]

Thank you!

[@slm171]

Respect the knowledge offered here, i believe its the opposite of cathodic protection used in tanks

[@dannyl2598]

Thanks Keith. I have a much better understanding of electrolysis now. I use it to clean up and preserve metal detecting finds. Things start off as a big ball of caked on rust. When it's done, you can see quite a bit of detail like forge welds, so you can tell more about how it was made.

[@whitecaps775]

Very well explained, very informative. Thanks for all the instructional videos. Great explanation too. Thanks Keith

[@markgriffin847]

Thank you for this video. Your a great teacher.

[@tt2468]

Not sure if others have posted but if you bake sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) at ~200c for 1 1/2 hours it will convert to sodium carbonate.

[@Beaches_south_of_L.A.]

That was a very enjoyable viewing experience. Thanks.

[@chemech]

Mnemonic for electrochemistry: Reduction Occurs at The Cathode (ROTC) Cathode = Cation (positive ion) attracting electrode Anode = Anion (negatively charged ion) attracting electrode. The frothy gunk that builds up on the anodes is an iron-oxide, which is an insulator... I've also gone after mild to medium rust on machined surfaces with a fine silicon carbide stone and light oil, or pumice (Rottenstone, Jeweler's Rouge) and oil with some moderate elbow grease... I've not personally had a piece where I needed to go to electrolysis, but as a chemist by training, it's a familiar tool...

[@nikolaosmallios1136]

Electrolysis is a Greek word my friend, "The word "electrolysis" was introduced by Michael Faraday in the 19th century, on the suggestion of the Rev. William Whewell, using the Greek words ἤλεκτρον [ɛ̌ːlektron] "amber", which since the 17th century was associated with electric phenomena, and λύσις [lýsis] meaning "dissolution"." You really enjoy your job and that makes us also enjoy seeing you, keep up the good work.

[@1Rowdy1derful]

Hello Keith. I would like to apologize for the flame war over the anode and cathode comment. Didn't mean to be so derogatory, I did appreciate your video, and did find it professionally done and lots of good information. I am also of primarily Welsh decent. Last name Legg. Keep up the good work Sir.

[@GearheadOutlaw]

Really educational and I've enjoyed every minute of the video. Thanks

[@davidreynolds4684]

The iron oxide makes a great catalyst for for rocket fuel made from pure cane sugar. Thankiins for tge video. That piece of equipment is a work of art. Technical advancement is great but sadly i doubt too many dewalt table saws will be getting refurbished in a century. Thanks for the video.

[@gjkozy]

I found out by experimenting that cleaning the anodes while still wet is very easy, but once they dry out it becomes like cement. The whole thing works better if you clean the anodes off and it bring back that bubbling action.

[@oldturbojettest9724]

This was really great to see. Never seen it before.

[@disrespectful7862]

I can't believe this iron structure doesn't sink! How does it stay afloat?

[@Ambidexter143]

I'm a retired U.S. Navy Chief and submariner. Yes, oxygen is generated on board nuclear submarines (which have basically unlimited electrical power) by running a high amperage current through tubes of sea water. The oxygen is collected at the cathode and stored in tanks to release into the ship's atmosphere and the hydrogen is released into the ocean. The other part of the atmosphere control system is removing carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and other contaminants through various chemical reactions. In the early 1980s I was in a submarine which operated for over a month near The Barn, the submarine force's nickname for the Soviet submarine base at Polyarnyy in the Arctic Ocean. We generated our own oxygen and got rid of carbon dioxide and other atmospheric contaminants because, of course, we couldn't surface or even snorkel during that time.

[@JohnBare747]

Looks good Keith and a very good explanation of he process too thanks.

[@lornanichol3905]

doyleaudio i agree .i have always wondered how electrolysis worked.nice 1 keith.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Lorna Nichol Thanks!

[@TheDarkalkymist]

works well on cast iron pots and pans, preferred deep cleaning method, also most ocean tugs have sacrificial zinc blocks attached to the hull, left unpainted they are there to save the hull from pitting

[@VintageMachinery]

+TheDarkalkymist Pretty much all ships have the zinc blocks on them like that - I think that is pretty standard now days.

[@TheDarkalkymist]

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org i remember seeing them on the tugs back in the Chesapeake Bay, been a long time since i have been there though left the area in 99

[@robinszemeti2638]

Just so you know, there is a common situation where you get hydrogen explosions in electrolytic processes ... if you get any soap solution in the tank, you'll get foam/soap bubbles on the surface. The ones around the cathode have the hydrogen, the ones around the anode the oxygen. If you get a thick layer of bubbles on the surface any tiny spark (eg from the wires connecting the anodes to the charger) will set it off. Very loud bang that leaves your ears ringing and electrolyte everywhere. I had it happen with a "cathodic degreasing tank" running hot caustic soda, which is not what you want flying around the shop ...

[@xenonram]

I don't think that hydrogen and oxygen will be produced because the the reduction of sodium is easier than splitting the water into 2 hydrogen cations and an oxygen anion. plus, in an open environment, there would never be enough build up of hydrogen to cause even a small flame. Even in a closed environment, with this little amount of electricity, it would maybe produce a liter or two of hydrogen over the couple days it runs. So definitely NOT an issue.... Even if he was using pure water, and not an electrolyte.

[@robinszemeti2638]

You could be right, but, from personal experience, I can tell you it does happen regularly in the plating industry in the "cathodic cleaning" process, where parts are immersed in caustic and stripped of paint/rust/oil etc .. and it is spectacular. I have personally had it happen in a saucepan sized cathodic cleaning tank when doing zinc plating at home too.

[@voxveritates2498]

Andrew, you are wrong. Na will NEVER be formed in protic solvents it would react vigorously and hydrogen

[@trickcyclists]

Andrew you're way off there. I've personally seen a few explosions from messing around with electrolysis.. We're not talking 'nuclear bomb' it's true... but certainly enough to blow your hat off and more.. You might be an educated chap, I'm not, but I do know that there's nothing hard about splitting water, no matter how much 'easier' it is to reduce sodium... Any build up of hydrogen is something to treat with respect, (especially when 'turbo charged' with the freed oxygen) ..or it absolutely will bite you hard.

[@marcryvon]

This Andrew guy knows nothing. I used to maintain deep charge battery powered janitor equipment used in malls, offices, industrial garages etc. Floor polishers, scrubbers some small & big, to small car size ride-ons. Those things had to be recharged every night. Hydrogen is produced during the recharging process. I constantly told the users to KEEP the batteries container lid OPEN while charging. And always connect the battery end first then the charger ON. In the morning, the opposite, charger OFF first then the batteries connector. "Yeah, yeah, of course". I had at least 6 machines busted, a big one totaled (explosion and fire)because some arss thought the security procedure was dumb. Another one used in a Fine Clothing warehouse. Two big, full racks of Armani suits ruined by the flying acid from 2 busted out of three large batteries. Employee with 2nd degree burns on his dumb face and arms. Huge damage claim from our client. "I didn't know, nobody told me". #@!!&?%%%*** !! So, beware of "oh no, so little hydrogen ain't dangerous!" As always, Better be safe than sorry! Get that Andrew ??

[@donaldwarner6988]

It helps if you add some TSP to the electrolyte. It helps to remove grease and prevent future rusting. Don Warner

[@VARocketry]

what is TSP?

[@johndoer903]

lysis greek word means to loose, unbind or disintegrate. It expresses the unbinding of what was previously tied up, or the disintegrating of what was previously

[@w056007568]

Most interesting on how to tackle large components, thanks.

[@bobbynate4271]

I've always wondered what a big version of this was like thanks for the show👍👍. I would like to add about safety the oxygen is equally dangerous here infact likely more so. This is because higher concentrations of oxygen lowers the flash point of any combustible. While hydrogen does burn it's not as violent as commonly believed. The extra oxygen is the Lions share of the danger here. In summary ventilation is your friend.

[@parkerbrough3852]

Subbed for how down to earth you are.

[@mr1enrollment]

I suggest that the anodes be hung over the top of the table. Having a roughly uniform distance from any point on the part to be saved to an anode presents a uniform electric field. Doing so has the rate of conversion be more uniform over the entire surface.

[@yellowskunk3465]

Thank you for investing your time and effort to film and explain the process of electrolysis. I was especially interested since I have an older Rockwell cast iron top table saw. I would love to see your finished top someday and tell what you did to it. Seeing how you do things, I'll bet it is slicker than snot. Thumbs up and thanks again.

[@VintageMachinery]

+John Michael There are some videos in my collection that show us restoring that Oliver table saw and you can see the finished product. Dig through my collection of videos - it was published back around May of 2014.

[@yellowskunk3465]

Thanks, I will prowl around some more on your channel. I will subscribe as a reminder, and for you doing such a nice job on the process of electrolysis.

[@paulogoncalves1071]

great demonstration

[@Rustremover]

Conservation and restoration always facinate me, especially when there is a bit of science involved.

[@whistlelips]

I used regular baking soda (that's all the wife had) and it worked fine. I noticed the more you add the higher the amperage went. With the higher amperage there was great activity.

[@VintageMachinery]

whistlelips The more electrolytes in the water, the better the conductivity and the higher the amperage will run. The higher the amperage, the faster everything works!

[@robincoulter3949]

Love swimming pool idea. wish you would have shown how you hooked the table top to negative. Again, fantastic idea using kiddie pool for container.

[@Templeman420]

I really enjoyed your video thank you for taking the time to explain all of that I found it very informative.

[@bryanlymangrover9576]

Nice video, very informative I do electrolysis the same way but I defiantly learned some great tips thanks!

[@manwithouteyes]

I've had quite a few old iron things in my "yuck bucket" over the years and never knew the black coating was magnetite. +5 for that fact nugget.

[@toolguy6057]

Very nice! I wonder if it would work better if after day one you change to clean water and new solution.

[@1AMERICANWORKER]

Sodium carbonate is also used to control the acidity in pool water. I was having the same problem finding washing soda and found it in a swimming pool supply as sodium carbonate Ph control.

[@john90430]

The rust-bluing method used on firearms is similar in its chemistry as far as converting ferric oxide into a more stable and protective surface, but does not involve electrolysis. Very interesting that there are often very different techniques used in order to achieve a similar end.

[@loftsatsympaticodotc]

Yup. ... and that is Ferrous Oxide, H₃O₄ the black 'magnetite' Keith refers to. same as heat or chemical 'bluing' we see on firearms, and hot rolled steel. It is the "reduction of the red rust, the red oxide ( H₂O₃ ) back to the less oxygenated state of iron called variously: hematite or magnetite (the ores) or black oxide or blued steel (generic terms) or ferrous oxide (chemical name) being all the same compound- 3 iron atoms combined with 4 oxygen- H₃O₄. Enjoy your new knowledge ⚛ . . . . . . 🙂

[@driverjamescopeland]

If you're looking for surface area, you can pickup scrap shavings from your local machine shop, or buy coarse grade steel wool.