Rust Repair is HARD on the Soul...Porsche 911 Suspension Pan Fun😀

#Porsche911Build
You need this tool from Ebay (Tram gage)
rover.ebay.com...
More suspension pan replacement videos in this series:
• Suspension Pan Replace...
• 911 Suspension Pan Wel...
• 911 Gas Tank Panel Rep...
• Early Porsche 911 Rest...
• How to Simulate Factor...
Check out this video on my suspension pan rust repair section. The job is always bigger than it looks on the outward surface. Once the cutting begins the real story reveals itself. The hollow cavity below the battery is a recipe for disaster.
This video series filmed in my home workshop highlights the technical details of my classic car restoration (An aircooled Porsche 911). I’m starting with a stripped out shell from 1974 and backdating it to the earlier longhood look. (Backdated Porsche means to make it look older than it is). It’s not easy to build a car in a small garage but I hope to inspire other gearhead minded people like me to build something cool with DIY style.
In the first few episodes I will focus on the autobody metalwork to transform this junker into something fun to drive. Extensive metal fabrication is needed to give the body the wide and low stance that I'm looking for. Metal fab can be time consuming but its the detail that set each car project build apart from the rest. My classic Porsche strives to be unique with custom hotrod touches throughout. There will be some rust repair in the front trunk area including the infamous suspension pan...home fab style.
I plan to update weekly videos detailing the customization of my classic sports car. This is a low budget build so I plan to make many of the custom parts myself wherever possible. I hope you enjoy my car vlog that will hopefully become an autocross racer or track car someday.
Engine plans are 3.0L+ with individual throttle bodies ITB
Custom brakes and suspensions mods are also planned.
Please stay tuned for all updates on this project series.
Product and tools info at www.ahhgaragetime.com
My Classic Car Restoration Future Plans
I plan to modify the suspension and brakes with improved aftermarket parts from Elephant Racing and Tarett Engineering as money and time allows. Larger brakes from a late model Boxster will be used since this car didn’t come with any brakes and they seem to be the best bang for the buck. The engine will be from a later Porsche 911 to with at least 3.0 liters and I hope to use a custom individual throttle bodies with a modern injection system and software.
In other words, this build will be a mashup of all Porsche’s best years. The classic look of the early lightweight body with a more modern air-cooled drivetrain. Call it a restomod or hotrod if you like, but I’m going to make it my own with custom touches along the way. Please join me in this detailed restoration journey.
Porsche...there is no substitute
Visit my website at www.ahhgaragetime.com or
facebook at ahhgaragetime
Instagram at ahhgaragetime
Here’s a recommended book.
amzn.to/2HCD3BQ

[@jalopidated]

"Village of tetanus" Best description ever!!!!! Nice Tom!

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

I hate rust. That was the nicest thing I could say about it.

[@sciflyer67]

Nice work. Got away cheap on the parts too! Tram gauge is almost sold out... People must be buying after seeing your video.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

There are a few different suppliers of good tram guages. I liked the one I linked in the description because he did a good job describing all the uses and benefits.

[@asicerik]

Great job with all those measurements.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Thank you! When there's a will there's a way😀.

[@Selmerpilot]

I have done this job and feel your pain! It is a monumental PIA to do correctly.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Yes, I've done worse. The good news is that this is the only area that needs to be repaired. After the left flare, it primer time!

[@fgjf1079]

Many people simply cut out the suspension pan, trace old out pan onto the new suspension pan. Prior to welding the new pan, bolt in the suspension points. This will ensure that it gets welded on straight.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Yep, I wouldn't recommend that on a 40 year old car especially with known accident history like mine.

[@fgjf1079]

Garage Time - Restomod I totally forgot that your car had been wrecked at one point in the past. Makes sense that to decided that you needed to measure.

[@uniflo2609]

Great video again!

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Thank you!

[@strofka0915]

I have a 1977 911 and my front drivers side front part of a arm is pretty well rusted out. I can move it a tiny bit and you can see cracks all around the 3 bolts that attach it to the chassis. I was quoted $4000. and since I have more time than money, I would like to do it myself. It just looks like such a big job, I'm not sure I can do it. I would think I would need the suspension pan, gas tank support, and fuel tank seal. Your videos are great. Thanks, Shane

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

wow, thanks for sharing your story. It's a big job, but you can break it into several smaller jobs and take your time. If and when you get stuck, reach out here and we can help.

[@strofka0915]

So will it be ok to just jack up the front of the car and support it with jack stands on the brace that runs from side to side in back of steering rack with out jacking up the rear of the car? And not remove the a-arms, but leave them in place to line up the holes of the new suspension pan?

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Hi Shane, yes the front cross member is a good place to support the car while working on it, however I recommend removing the A arms because they aren't good measuring devices (lots of sliding rubber pieces) and they will be in your way especially if you are replacing the side supports. How are your welding skills?

[@strofka0915]

I have a friend that has good welding skills that is willing to help. Should I just measure before I take it all apart and rely on those measurements -602 mm front to rear and 916.5 diagonally or could you send me a copy of those workshop manual measurements? I have a friend that will lend me his digital tram gauge. I ordered the suspension pan w/reinforcement brackets and the fuel tank support and fuel tank seal. Having the new fuel tank support, I could just cut out the old one and then just remove the spot welds for the seam of the suspension pan. What are your thoughts on all of that?

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

I wouldn't trust an old car with mounts that you can wiggle by hand. Best to use the factory measurements and make it like new again. The diagrams are available on a few pelican parts forum threads. Email me if you can't find them. My email is in the about section. A friend with a welder who's willing to help is a big score!

[@dennisvogel]

"village of tetanus" LOL 4:58

[@thinkerdoit]

Another interesting water level method! Applicable to our cars. Had similar questions to others you answered like rigid shocks. Are they welded? Tires equal pressure etc, are there additional variables that factor into nailing those measurement ranges?

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Hey Fancypants...thats fun to say!!! Send me an email and I'll send you some pictures of the temporary rear shocks. Other variables are minor as long as they don't change. For instance if the tire pressure changed on one side in the course of a day. I have another tool that eliminates the tires too that I used to fix all the heavy accident damage. Goto the about page here and send me an email and I'll send pics of that too. Are you contemplating repeating this method?

[@anonjag]

The leveling system is plain silly, just use some clear tube and fill with water and use it as a water level, much more accurate than the home made device that you conjured up, but the rest of your system is to be commended as a very good accurate method, the Trammel bar or Tram gauge in body shop vernacular is a millwright tool originally,

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Hey, thanks for your comment. Water level is the same no matter what you put it in, but if you think a flexible tube is more accurate than go for it! A simple channel with the ends closed off has advantages that you can measure off a straight surface.

[@anonjag]

@@GarageTimeAutoResto I spent a thousand on a laser leveling system for a particular job, and a drywall installer used his water level to complete the job before i set up the laser, I really felt like such a tool, never mind the good mannered ribbing i had to endure after that.

[@schuttrostig5729]

you measured without lvling the measure bar. the dimensions given in the manual seem to be horizontal diffrences, so you shouldnt you lvl the measurement bar by sliding the point pins in and out ?

[@fishfan0092]

Great work Tom! How did you figure the shim for the rear passenger tire? Did you do the same process to check the front cross member?

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Thanks Rob. Step 1 is to level the C channel with respect to the not so flat concrete floor. Step 2 is to level the rear torsion tube to the C channel using the adjustable height gage that I made. The shims on the left tire is what was required to achieve step 2. What I didn't explain was that my car has temporary solid shocks at the moment to set the ride height without torsion bars. So raising the left tire must also tilt the torsion tube making it perfectly horizontal. This method is much more accurate than a level for instance. The front was adjusted/deformed to also be flat. Since the tub is rigid you can't simply level front and rear without them affecting each other. I hope this makes sense. Good questions and sorry I didn't cover all this in the video.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

I said left tire and should have said right.

[@fishfan0092]

Thanks for your quick reply, and great explanation! That is what I thought, and appreciate your confirmation. You also got me thinking about matching tire pressure, shocks that aren't worn equally, etc. I will be doing this on my 69, as well as the Front Latch Panel. I will definitely be buying the Tram you posted. Looking forward to more vids.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

Hey Rob, you got me thinking too....about the difference between corner balancing and tub structure alignment. Currently, I'm only trying to align the chassis and corner balancing comes later. (chassis plus suspension). Its too bad that I don't have video or pics of this setup, but I'm going to link to my fixtures below. Don't feel like you have to buy them, please. See the pics of the ebay listing. They take all the suspension, tires, shocks out of the equation which is why I used them for the initial pulling/alignment. These things go inside the torsion tubes and provide a very rigid base on my "levelled" floor. Same method as my video, but instead of shimming the tire, I shimmed the fixtures. These were strong enough to push/pull my suspension points into alignment. Your car probably isn't as out of whack as mine was, so this may be overkill. Anyhow, thanks for the good discussion and let me know if this is confusing. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F232595363407&campid=5338270888&toolid=20008

[@brianboxall1488]

How many hours did it take you to complete this ? Im being quoted 40 hours

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

That sounds about right. I don't keep track of hours but I probably spent more like 60. I faked the spot weld appearance, TIG welded some seams, and rust proofed the whole front of the car.