2007-2014 GM Escalade motor mount replacement. Clunk from stop

[@ScarabChris]

Ok folks I just completed this task on my 2008 EXT with 6.2 and all wheel drive. One pointer I can offer that Rust Belt didn't do is to remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. It's only 4 10mm bolts and it came off in a matter of 45 seconds. It opens up a lot of extra work space and gives you a lot more visibility. You can actually see the bolts going up through the heat shield of the mount with the manifold shield out of the way. Other than that I did it pretty much the same as on this video but using a floor jack to move the engine up and down rather than a hoist. I did lift it by the cat converter that comes off that side manifold for the lift. I know lots of people will frown on that but I tried lifting from the oil pan and being the pan is in the center of the engine you really have to jack hard to get the engine up. Lifting from the cat converter required very little lifting to get the engine up as you are lifting the only side needed to lift not lifting from the center thus fighting the other mount. Plus I had a wood block ready under the hood so as soon as I got the engine high enough I jammed a wood block between the exhaust manifold and the frame then released most of the weight on to the block and manifold and not the cat converter. Once you get the new mount bolted to the engine lower the engine slowly and with a screw driver check the alignment of that pin on the bottom of the mount. Took me a few tries but it kept getting stuck on the pin leaving the engine up a little. I just took a little load off the mount and with a large Phillips screw drive and stuck it through the forward bolt hole and pulled the screw driver forward and it dropped right in. Lowered the engine down and put the frame bolts in. Two people would have made this part easier. The biggest pain in the ass was getting that steering shaft back in on the rack. The thing is at such an angle it makes it very tough to align it up. By this time I was tired as hell too. I pulled it back out again and spread open the shank as much as I could. I dry fit it without first putting it in the steering column and it seemed super easy. So I pulled it off, insert into the steering column and tried like hell to line it up by hand. I am working from the top too.....if I had a lift I could have easily got a rod and tapped it with a hammer to guide it home. But I got it lined up as close as possible by hand then blindly tapped it with a hammer and it fell into place. The entire job took me 4 hours but 2.5 hours was trying to get the damn steering shaft back in.

[@kylealvis7759]

Mlmlllmlmll plmlml ll

[@MWTravelNOutdoors]

Thanks for the extra tip. Doing mine in the morning. So I should expect a 4 hr job.

[@bryceanderton2552]

@ScarabChris and @RustBeltAuto - Thanks to you both for the details on this - I'll be tackling it soom on my '07 EXT. Appreciate the insight, greatly.

[@MWTravelNOutdoors]

Miss working in the shop with guys like this! My kind of coworkers.

[@RustBeltAuto]

The "bosses", service writers, and owners don't seem to like me so much. They always tell me I have an attitude problem ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

[@SteveMTexas]

Great Video. I've got a busted mount on a 2008 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2 and AWD. Can't afford to pay for the replacement right now at around $650.00. Mounts are less than $100.00 from a GM Website. Gonna try this myself. Use to fix anything on a car until they got so technical and require all those special tools. I can do this though. Thanks for your effort and the "to the point" video.

[@lamontgray6015]

You should look around that's a high price just to replace mount

[@quinnbrumfield1843]

FYI for those replacing this themselves it's not too bad of a job. My truck is a 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3. I actually used the Hummer H3 passenger side mount which is the same as the Police PPV mount GM Part number 25847739. I got it on Amazon for about $85. This was the second time I replaced my mount since owning the truck, so opted for the more heavy duty this time around. Unlike the video, I was able to access the bolts on the block much easier from underneath the truck.

[@raymondjourden3704]

how much more heavy duty is that mount and did you have to change both sides?

[@jetfxr27]

THIS. Search for the H3 passenger motor mount. GM P/N 25847739. It is solid rubber vs the OEM oil filled rubber ones which break. Also used on cop tahoes. Slightly more vibration but don't tear. The passenger side one fits both left and right sides of the 07-13 GM's 5.3 and 6.0's.

[@ScarabChris]

Assuming your truck is rear wheel drive and not 4 wheel drive. Nearly impossible to get access from under the truck on a 4 wheel drive truck. The one in this video was a 4 wheel drive but really they are full time all wheel drive so there is a transfer case, differential which is right under the mount and CV axles to the wheels.

[@joelpierce3940]

I am glad the clunk is being diagnosed. Most people kept saying it was the front driveshaft yoke.

[@death-hs4dh]

i have lived with this clunk for 3 years tried changing slip yoke and u joints didnt solve it. Did this solved it thank you so much omg life saver

[@RustBeltAuto]

Have someone go in the truck, put it in drive, and have them hit the gas with the brake on. You should see it move excessively, if the mount is torn. You can check the other side in reverse.

[@death-hs4dh]

@@RustBeltAuto I meant to to say it did solve it lol my bad I was thanking you

[@gordongreen5623]

Thanks for the walk through video. I replaced my mount 3 years ago and followed someone else’s video that took it out through the bottom. This looked way easier. Now I have to do it again. Got prices of $450 and $541 to have it done. I think I’ll do it again your way this time.😁

[@SteveMTexas]

I have a torn boot on the steering linkage, along with the mount. Your video showed me how to pull that bad boy out. Gonna save me a ton of bucks..... thanks for the video.

[@ScarabChris]

I have a 2008 Escalade EXT. I have had it almost since new it only had 30K miles when I got it. It now has 85K miles. In the last year I starting having a really bad clunking any time I turn or start from a dead stop or if the truck down shifts hard. I knew right away the CV axles were shot. In the process of replacing those I found the sway bar bushings gone so I did the CV axles and new sway bar mount assemblies. Took the truck for a ride and 90% of the sounds and clunks were gone. I still had a slight "thud" I could feel in the floor when taking off from a dead stop. I just did the test of putting the truck in gear, foot on brake and slight acceleration and sure enough the engine hops up on the driver side by about 3/4 of an inch. I'll be doing the driver side motor mount this weekend.

[@xnadave]

Nice - thanks for posting. I'm getting ready to replace the LH mount on our '07 as well. I wasn't looking forward to spending six hours following the official procedure. This helps a lot.

[@RustBeltAuto]

What little I can do :)

[@peoasdosdsdas]

I learned a new phrase today, If u don't put bungee cord on, clock spring will break and u will not like your self anymore , nice

[@TheMEXICANBEEF]

My father and I just finished up changing one on a 2011 denali. It was a massive pita even with a lift. Engine wouldn't move up enough on the driver side without hitting the firewall. I'll be much more careful with my yukon from now on.

[@williewright1586]

Did mine today on a 2008 Escalade Ext , drivers side from top and bottom , left steering shaft connected , crawled under truck and took front driveshaft loose and moved to side. gave me enough room to get hands up and loosen right hand side bolts to mount from underneath and did left hand side bolts on mount from up top. 2 hours taking off old one ,2 hours back on with new one.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Nice. Thought there wasn't enough room for that, so I did it this way.

[@Jerm727]

I followed your method and replaced the drivers side mount on my ‘12 Silverado today. Worked great about 4 hours. The hardest part for me was once it was unbolted, removing the old mount from the engine bay and placing the new one properly.

[@williewright1586]

@@Jerm727 Glad you were able to get it done, mine gave me a few skinned knuckles, but I know i saved some money not taking to a shop.

[@dangerousfandango5943]

I enjoyed the way you talked.. great video

[@stevenredman1582]

I'm doing my '07 Avalanche. Unfortunately, I already took the inner wheel well out. Now in order to not round off the mount to frame bolts, I need to get the steering shaft out of the way. I guess you took the one you're working on out of the steering gearbox. That should help a lot. Thank you for the video...it sure beats using a smoke wrench (torch) to get the old mount out. (Just kidding...)

[@ihateicecream2]

Pull your inner fender off it makes it far easier. You can access the bolts without any issue.

[@20tea]

Came in through the driver side wheel well was easier for me, but I had a 3 inch body lift. Driveline vibrations gone as well as the clunk after repairing.

[@batman3933]

Loved the vid. Thanks for posting it bud, helped me out a lot.

[@gjones5153]

The Passenger side is a lot harder I did mine today I removed the inner fender liner, the starter and the manifold heat shield then I got the motor-mount part way out and took the two bolts out removing the heat shield and plate so I could remove the mount completely then reversed everything took me a good 3 hours

[@TA-yg4vo]

Thanks everybody! My '07 Escalade definitely has the same motor mount broken and exhibits the same symptoms EXCEPT my left front tire chews into the wheel well lining under heavy acceleration. Spent lots of $ for a dunce to not figure out what is causing this. One suggestion from several sources is to check for a broken frame but the usual break locations look OK. In the comments a logical mention by MAC ACRZ of a broken tranny mount might just be worth looking at. Getting the motor mount done tomorrow as well more $ to reverse the damage done by a dunce. He broke my exhaust bolts to change the tranny fluid, maybe he f%$ked up the tranny mount too.

[@richardhooss4435]

Thanks a lot.!! Worked perfectly.!!

[@billmelody8618]

GREAT Video!!! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Going to do one this weekend, wish me luck.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Bill Melody try skill instead. Good skill?

[@teennomore]

Thanks for the advice.I have the confidence to do mine tomorrow.

[@jackjones6040]

you are pretty damn GOOOD!!! Jack from San Francisco: I have 2007 Escalade ESV

[@RustBeltAuto]

Thanks!

[@erdricksword3684]

Point of advice from a long time gm tech, replace the exhaust manifold bolt and gasket with this job. They probably have broken the front and or last bolt causing a ticking sound. Also, if you are doing the exhaust bolts this should be done at the same time. I never do one job without the other.

[@RustBeltAuto]

The bolts are broke flush with the head. Head removal would need to be done. He's been running it like that for the last 5 year's he's had it. Doesn't make noise yet. He doesn't want to do it. Rarely do I see customers spend all that dough outside the dealer, unless they make a lot of noise.

[@erdricksword3684]

@@RustBeltAuto if broken flush, dorman makes a bolt on part, 917-107 and 917-142 for a quick fix when they cone in making noise. I've had a few over the years that burn the plug wires from the exhaust. When I do get a job to replace the bolts though, I insist on doing mounts at same time was what I ment in first one. Always have to fix what the customer is willing to fix, and nothing more though. Can't make a living paying to fix others cars for sure!

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@erdricksword3684 thanks!

[@Tohliah]

Excellent explanation I wish I had the experience on a 4WD I think it's harder

[@RustBeltAuto]

This was a 4wd.

[@Tohliah]

@@RustBeltAuto Sorry I did not notice but the control panel did not have the four-wheel control arm It seems I was wrong Friend I want to ask you an expert What kind is good ACDelco or other kind

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@Tohliah just regular parts store stuff. Someone messaging on here claims that their is a heavier duty one used on passenger side Hummer, that fits on the drivers side, but I don't know about that?

[@Tohliah]

@@RustBeltAuto Thanks friend

[@mariochingon3842]

Great walkthrough brother!!!

[@carlcouey4112]

Not only entertaining but very good explanation. Doing both sides this weekend and will do it your way.

[@joelrisso1773]

Thank you so much for this video. The best

[@mattlucas8034]

GM told me to do this... F*ck dem guys! Doojamahicky! Hilarious!

[@mattlucas8034]

I actual said "Fck them guys!" exactly when you did when I got that bastard out! Had same situation. Shaft was frozen on the knuckle. Had to remove knuckle and slam the shaft out with a 3/8" 15" extension. Filed/brushed rust off and sprayed down with Fluid Film, love this stuff!

[@ScarabChris]

LOL at the comment at 12:16. That was great!

[@willhemsing9737]

Very helpful, especially the details!

[@fatcatclark8428]

one of the best videos ive seen in a while...

[@DUCKS2525]

Thanks for the video! Appreciate ya! You're pretty damn funny too!

[@yrlreyes6730]

nice job my friend thanks

[@duh7048]

I’m having mine done today. The left side is obviously done but I believe I’m gonna change out both even though typically the passenger side takes less torque and damage in terms of comparison to the driver side. Either way we are gonna inspect it and decided from there since its also gonna be much harder to get too! Thanks for the video Rusty lol. Liked/Subbed

[@johanseminario5194]

i'm thinking about replacing my motor mounts too. how much did you pay? do you feel less vibrations?

[@michaelnicoletta5519]

I have a clunk in my front left driver side. Sounds like it's right under the steering wheel, by the left driver wheel. Clunk is on my stop and go

[@RustBeltAuto]

Might be something else.

[@antoniop5889]

You figure out what it is mines doing the same thing

[@robertopaz9410]

My airbag and abs light came on. How do I reset or fix it ?

[@comaradelee]

does it apply with 2010 suburban? what is the part number for this?

[@juanmiranda7196]

Great video thanks a lot .

[@RustBeltAuto]

Welcome!

[@TheMax4541]

Very helpful video. Is the process the same for 2wd vs 4wd? I have read 4wd is more difficult but I don't know why. Thanks

[@RustBeltAuto]

I think you can take a 2wd out the bottom, because there is no axle. just a guess.

[@joshuamyers5650]

“Whatever GM said to do fuck them guys “ spot on mate

[@JuanHernandez-ff8lu]

Nice video! How many hours did it take?

[@fidelcordova9374]

Great video man you kick ass. I have one problem I can’t afford a cherry picker at the moment where else can I jack up the engine far enough to where I can remove the part.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Fidel Cordova. I dunno. You could maybe take the hood off, and tree jack it with a chain hoist. People rent cherry pickers too. That was just the easiest way I figured on how to do it.

[@tromponist]

Just did mine yesterdays removed 3 bottom bolts from the top,(harbor freight whobble extensions are a must) jacked up the oil pan with 8 inches piece 4x4 wood, took wheel off , removed plastic engine cover and heat shield , disconneced steering rod, peeled away mount shield to get to the bolts. 1 1/2 hours

[@RustBeltAuto]

Nice. I actually looked for a place to put a jack on the left side, and didn't see anything that I was comfortable with, so I just used a cherry picker. Nice to hear you just used a jack, and it worked. Thanks for watching!

[@jeffreygross3405]

harbor freight purchase and return it when you're finished.😁

[@scottytomcat4267]

Fuck gm I love it, do ja ma hickys🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@JasonSpitzMI50]

General motors is a piece of s*** which I will never ever buy another. But love your adventurous nature of wanting to tackle a project you haven't a clue of the out come.

[@octaviofuentes7781]

hey man my 2500 hd 05 Silverado does something lik that you said at the beginning of the video I'm guessing the motor mounts are bad

[@RustBeltAuto]

If you have a helper, that will not run you over, you can see how much movement there is.

[@viper200075]

Great video

[@ricardorodriguez-se7tp]

LOL when this guy said to the GM engineers fuck them guys LOL.

[@charlesvanallen7593]

Thank you very much! Very very helpful! Well done.

[@TheJetbreaker]

"Whatever GM said to do...Fuck them guys!"

[@1RJW381]

@12:25 15yr ex. Not ase certified. FUCK ALL THE AUTOMAKERS FOR BEING UNPRACTICAL WITH SUGGESTIONS TO FIX THIER RESPECTIVE VEHICLES. Ive had to improvise all my life fixin cars from geo's to AMG's From toyota's to masseratti's... good job my friend.

[@JBVantage1]

Can you jack the motor up from the bottom instead? I need to replace one of these.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Some people say they used a jack with a block of wood on the bottom of an aluminum oil pan.

[@JBVantage1]

@@RustBeltAuto I don’t like it. Hoist rental is $40, worth it.

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

Dude , youre fucking awesome.

[@keithstudly6071]

Ya take off the front wheel and work through the wheel well. That's why you take out the fender liner! GEEZ Oh the steerin shaft is a shaft, not a 'bar'. GEEZ

[@RustBeltAuto]

Either way, there is no wrong answer don'tchaknow.

[@wolleysegap9740]

LMAO ! "Whatever GM said to do, fuck them guys" Lol...

[@jamesguralski5156]

Are the mounts same for both sides?

[@RustBeltAuto]

No.

[@afterburnerboyz]

I have to do one of these this week. i was hoping not to remove the front differential! I'm going to try your way first. How long did it take you?

[@RustBeltAuto]

afterburnerboyz about 2 hours with setup of the hoist and finding a longer bolt and stuff. Maybe more. I could do it faster a second time. This was my first attempt. If it was too much trouble, I was going to remove the exhaust manifold, but didn't have to. The rear exhaust bolt was broke on this too. Very common. The dealer calls for about 3.5 hours their way. I can see it maybe taking longer.

[@morty346]

Rust Belt Auto I got one that needs done if you want to time yourself and do a second one! I'll pay! I'm in Florida!

[@RustBeltAuto]

morty346 with a free plane ride too?

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Sweet 👍

[@manny_fresh_80]

"Looking better than my last girlfriend" haha, thanks for the video!

[@czr5745]

I Have the same truck, with clunk noise, turns out mine was rear u-joints. All fixed now.

[@Sniperssx]

who to fix the traction track I accdaintly was loos when I did mount installation

[@RustBeltAuto]

Sorry, I don't understand the question. If you are asking me who can fix something, because you screwed something up, and cannot fix it, I would imagine my answer would be to take it to a mechanic.

[@Sniperssx]

@@RustBeltAuto Thanks , can you tell what dose clock spring do to the traction control or other sensor in driveshaft are responsbile for that error I m just trying to figure out the case....

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@Sniperssx what error?

[@juanprenteria5077]

Is this that same engine mount for 5.3 ecotec 2015 silverado ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

Juan P Renteria it should be. I do not know of any block dimensions that are different in all Ls truck engines.

[@TA-yg4vo]

@@RustBeltAuto My 2007 Esclade ESV has a 6.2 L LT4 engine

[@RustBeltAuto]

Lt4 is supercharged. That is the only difference as far as I know.

[@dannybordelon2494]

was that cross member cracked ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

no cracked A frame, or cross member.

[@PaulCTownsend]

GOOD JOB

[@towmaster86martinez54]

How long dose it takes to change

[@RustBeltAuto]

Ask the dealer 😝

[@harrytuttle8161]

why isn't this a recall part ???? Yep ! that's what's wrong with my 2007 Silverado . I going to spend extra and go with Polymer ( poly ) motor mounts . these OE rubber mounts will break again in 12 months .

[@RustBeltAuto]

Rubber is usually always better. Poly is cheaper to make. It is a two part mixture, not unlike how to mix epoxy, and does not require a vulcanizing process like rubber. If poly was so great, manufacturers would use it in everything. In order to get a recall, most need to win a lawsuit in court.

[@harrytuttle8161]

@@RustBeltAuto They use poly rollers in escalators , conveyor belts and all kinds of bushings , I replaced all the front end bushing with poly because the rubber just isn't that durable . my silverado has never been dogged , hot rodded , or towed any thing I drive it very gently . It just makes no sense to me that the motor mounts should just fail at 120,000 miles . I drove my Honda accord for 300,000 miles the motor mounts are fine . I'm very disappointed in the overall quality of my Silverado , I'm looking at getting a Tundra . Jap Crap just seems to be higher quality . thanks for the video .

[@keysautorepair6038]

Done mine without taking anything out but the mount

[@RustBeltAuto]

Wow?!?!?!. I would have liked to see that. How you get it out with the steering linkage in the way?

[@goldencosmonaut]

My 2009 Suburban makes a clunking noise when slowing down and when I’m about to stop I hear a bumping noise under the hood. Please help.

[@RustBeltAuto]

murad abdallah that sounds like it's not a mount. Possible driveline, or suspension steering issues maybe. Sorry, diagnosing issues over the internet doesn't work very well. People want me to diagnose cars over the phone all the time too. What a joy.

[@ScarabChris]

I know this is an old post and you may have found the issue. But if it's an all wheel drive then you need new CV axles. I have an 08 Escalade AWD and the CV axles were shot. I had all the same clunks and thuds. Changing the CV axles did the trick. Now I only have the engine mount.

[@dangerousfreedom4965]

👍

[@Simonsaysboxing]

Thank you aye you nowle

[@RustBeltAuto]

What's a nowle?

[@leroijr407]

You watched your video to see how to put back in, but then you fast forward so no one else can see? How does that help us? Now i have to hope you pulled it out in normal speed 🤦‍♂️

[@timwisdom9574]

Did my avalanche. Your so righr u cant c shit. But the video was awesome

[@usmc291]

I thought it was my transmission but they checked it mechanic told me motor mounts were bad that’s why I was feeling the little jump when I put it on reverse and every time I accelerate I can feel the gears going in I’m not 100% sure but the only way I’m going to find out is changing the motor and transmission mounts!!

[@RustBeltAuto]

MAC ACRZ if you feel it in reverse, you need to put it in reverse, with your foot on the brake, hit the gas, and the passenger side mount will move a lot. You should be able to see it separate. It usually takes 2 people. One to do it, and one to see it. The transmission mount is visibly noticable. Just get under the truck and look at it. It will be cracked.

[@usmc291]

Rust Belt Auto thank you that’s just what they did at the shop, front of me when they moved the truck it left a puddle of rust oil from the passengers mount !! They told me my transmission was good I hope I I get this fix I won’t have to feel the same jump as I accelerate

[@RustBeltAuto]

MAC ACRZ that is not a hydraulic mount, I do not believe. There should not be any oil coming from it. The rust is probably just car cancer that could be from anything. A rusty pile of oil sounds like a perculiar thing. Bells and whistles are going off in my head.

[@darrenosb81]

Whatever GM said to do.. fuck them guys. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 seriously though. Alot of the time there is another way.

[@RustBeltAuto]

The last one I did I put a jack on the oil pan. Others have done it. Dealer says do not.

[@darrenosb81]

@@RustBeltAuto yeah there was another video I watched some guys doing that. Hell whatever gets the job done.

[@45scoot]

Thanks for info..

[@shanavas9949]

2018

[@pantherplatform]

Dlmfo your from Wisconsin...

[@RustBeltAuto]

You won't :P

[@octaviofuentes7781]

watch my own video i like that hahah it helped

[@geopowless3452]

Mommarts that u

[@RustBeltAuto]

Huh?

[@geopowless3452]

Rust Belt Auto I asked if u was one of the Mommarts family members you sound just like them they have a big salvage and auto repair yard In my local area

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@geopowless3452 never heard of them.

[@ScarabChris]

I have a 2008 Escalade EXT. I have had it almost since new it only had 30K miles when I got it. It now has 85K miles. In the last year I starting having a really bad clunking any time I turn or start from a dead stop or if the truck down shifts hard. I knew right away the CV axles were shot. In the process of replacing those I found the sway bar bushings gone so I did the CV axles and new sway bar mount assemblies. Took the truck for a ride and 90% of the sounds and clunks were gone. I still had a slight "thud" I could feel in the floor when taking off from a dead stop. I just did the test of putting the truck in gear, foot on brake and slight acceleration and sure enough the engine hops up on the driver side by about 3/4 of an inch. I'll be doing the driver side motor mount this weekend.