Rusty's Off Road Steering Upgrade, 98 Wrangler TJ

Installation of Rusty's Off-road Steering linkage upgrade RS-SC250-UV.
www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-ste...

[@indridcold8433]

I just got a Rusty's Off Road® tie rod for my aging TJ. The thing is intimadating. The girth is extremely thick as compared to the stock tie rod. What Rusty's Off Road® aftermarket tie rod proves to the world is simple and logical. SIZE DOES MATTER.

[@oldschool240]

Excellent, thorough video! Thanks!

[@dukainmanning7246]

I had this on my 93 ZJ and now it's going on my 2000 XJ. It's a great system!!! It's pretty much bomb proof. Great video!!

[@05blkrado]

Dukain Manning do you have any clearance issues with your track bar bolt? Cause I have this kit and it’s hitting that bolt like mad crazy

[@dukainmanning7246]

@@05blkrado I did initially, I did get in contact with Rusty's and they told me about a lower profile bolt that would solve that issue. It should still be available from them.

[@rayaboomboom]

Thanks for posting

[@elvynortiz3456]

Thank u for this video very helpful sir

[@shawnpalmer2121]

thanks man and I enjoyed the video

[@lefato777]

great video. I installed 35s and now I have the dreaded death wobble.

[@erobles7044]

Leo Torres how did you fix it

[@lefato777]

E Robles so it turned out to be the bushings on the track bar. $6.99 online.

[@erobles7044]

Leo Torres is that tie rod ends ??

[@lefato777]

E Robles no do a search for track bar and you will see. If you have a factory bar running large tires it could be damaged. If you are running aftermarket everything is replaceable.

[@Sketchy_Vettes]

Have the same thing, I'm replacing the track bar, tie rod, and sway bar links, from what I've read it's the track bar 80% of the time

[@ccmusicandsounds4505]

Good video question I have a 1999 wrangler sahara, on the drag link(original in your video) it has a slight curve or bend then connects to the pitman. I have the same setup, my question is if a straight link also fit? most stores only offer a straight setup.

[@bned-hv3of]

Ok so I installed this product and went for an alignment but then mechanic at the alignment shop said that the flat side should be down. He also said that he could not align the upper bar due to that. Is there something I’m missing here?

[@indridcold8433]

I noticed you drilled a hole to mount your track bar over to the left of the original hole. Try an adjustable Track bar and use the original hole. It will prevent a lot of future annoying problems.

[@gldsmith61]

You got that right, been there done that.

[@gldsmith61]

The top bar is going to smash your shock when the right side flexes up.

[@Humorem15]

is the passenger side sway bar link bracket bent towards the tire?

[@marktucker3951]

You forgot to mention drag link MUST be parallel with the track bar no matter what you install

[@junkyarddog9534]

A couple previous comments said "the tie rod makes contact with the track bar bolt when turning to the passenger side." Is this a common problem?

[@FlashPerformance1]

I didn't have any issue with that. I had one bolt that was sticking out that the link contacted but I just turned the head of the bolt to the other side. That was the only clearance issue I had, everything else has I could put a finger between. I did have some adjustments that I did to the steering stabilizer to get it to clear everything but that was no big deal.

[@connorowens9408]

Did your kit come with the bolt and sleeve that connects the steering stabilizer to the bracket on the drag link? I just ordered a steering stabilizer and it didn’t come with the sleeve and the bolt to fit with the bracket so idk where to get it other than getting lucky at a hardware store

[@FlashPerformance1]

No, that was on the Jeep already I just repurposed it.

[@aaronm406]

Could this fix on a stockish Jeep tj?

[@johnkee1365]

Isn't the stabilizer supposed to be attached to the Drag link and not the tie rod?

[@FlashPerformance]

I think it can go either way, however according to Rusty's directions it goes on the bottom of the drag link: 7: Attach the supplied steering stabilizer bracket to the stabilizer and then loosely connect it to the bottom of the drag link.

[@dukainmanning7246]

I had it attached to the drag link and then one with a bracket attached to the tierod and differential housing. Same system.

[@AB714AA]

great video man do have a part # so I could used it for my 90 xj? you think I could used this 1? thanks

[@FlashPerformance1]

Yes, this is the same set up as your XJ. You will be very happy with this set up

[@jorgenoneya5382]

So what happens with the adjustable part on the drag link? The adjuster part to straighten your steering wheel? How do you adjust your steering wheel after the swap?

[@FlashPerformance1]

1st you disconnect the rod that connects to the steering wheel. Set the toe 1st with the drag link bar. Once the toe is set re connect the steering linkage, adjust just level your wheel

[@rustbucket11]

When you turn the steering full right or left, how close does the tie rod get to the diff cover?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Very close, if you have an aftermarket diff cover it will cause a problem. I think I have about 1/2 inch of clearance from the cover.

[@williamnowicki68]

Quadratec lists clearance issues with stock rims. Do think they are referring to tie ends or tie rod clearance? Have 04 Rubicon with stock rims and 285 75 r16 Grapplers.

[@FlashPerformance1]

I can't think of any reason for clearance issues. The tie rod ends are no larger than stock and they are in the stock location. Your best bet is to call Rusty's Tech Department directly and ask them, but I can see where there would be any issue

[@christophercastro8158]

I'm having some clearance issue when I turn it to the passenger side the tie rod makes contact with the bolt that comes in the kit for the track bar. how can I correct this?

[@FlashPerformance1]

I ended up moving my steering stabilizer to the steering drag link. That fixed my clearance issue on the bolts

[@FlashPerformance1]

Take that bolt out and turn it around. If I remember correctly you will be hitting the threads. I turned mine around and made clearnace

[@natedarosa3786]

So both sides of each bar need to have the same amount of turns on each side?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Yes, you want to have them as even as possible. When it comes time to align you might have to turn just one side to get it set right but over all you want to be very close to even.

[@gldsmith61]

Sorry but the round side is made for the bushing to sit in and the flat is for the bolt. And the shock always goes on the top so you wont feel vibration for the tire through the steering wheel. You might want to take this vid down and start over so others do not install this wrong.

[@jodyandmichelle1]

How does this compare to the Currie heavy duty steering? Is the Currie worth the extra money for a daily driver?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Jody Newell, the Currie steering step up is a great product. The Currie set up keeps the factory steering design. This has benefits of better road feel, easy alignment process, and easy set up and install. For a factory ride heigth or mild lift I would recomend the Currie set up. Over a 4 inch lift I would go with Rusty's.

[@jdsilvaca]

Jody Newell if its just a daily, I wouldn't spend the money on the currie.

[@shawnpalmer2121]

would you recommend this for daily driving

[@FlashPerformance1]

This was done on my daily driver. Once you get the alignment right and the steering stablizer in the right place it is a very nice driving set up

[@SLICKW1993]

Is this strong enough for 37" tires?

[@FlashPerformance1]

I think that would be a great question for the support team at Rusty's I don't see any issue with running this kit with 37' tires but they would know best. They can be reached at www.rustysoffroad.com/contacts

[@ddesilva61]

Snapon BFH :)

[@lakrabid]

Bumpsteer? The draglink and trackbar mounts at not equal.

[@FlashPerformance1]

Non at all, it is hard to see from the video, but the the draglink and trackbar are parallel

[@toddellis5197]

Will this work with no lift? Thanks...

[@FlashPerformance]

Yes, When you choose your kit from rustys it asks what your lift height is.

[@Nothingtoya]

you shouldn't need that stabilizer. Also, how much tie rod roll does this set up have?

[@FlashPerformance1]

95 XJ, if this was only off road I would agree that the stabilizer would not be needed. On my set up I get a lot of steering wiggle without it. The tiered ends have 2 inches of adjustment on each end. Rusty's can make these for your axle set up and lift height for proper fit

[@Nothingtoya]

So it still has a lot of tie rod roll? I was wondering about that. I think I'm going to do some kind of cross over steering.

[@FlashPerformance1]

95 XJ, ok I understand your question better now. When the steering is properly set up you have very little tie rod roll. The kit includes bushings that replace the tie rod boots to prevent the tie rod roll. If the steering link and the tie rod link are not properly aligned you will force tie rod roll. Once I had the steering link perfectly on top (vertical) on the steering like there was no roll.

[@santanerox]

Hey bro is your whole suspension rustys? Never met anyone who has this kit. I'm looking at rustys but still looking

[@FlashPerformance1]

No, This jeep is a bunch of different kits put together. I have ordered different pieces and parts from Rusty's over the years and I have never been disappointed. I am a big fan of kits, if you can get everything you need from one company I would recommend that. Let them figure out all the issues you may run into...

[@santanerox]

Chad Schnitz cool thanks. I really appreciate it. I went on line to look at their reviews but couldn't find too many of them

[@jonkern2325]

They have good setups. Most xj and full size jeep guys run rustysoffroad stuff. It holds up well and around the same cost as rough country but better quality.

[@enkneegivendaze1246]

Hey ..what is the Moog part # for the pitman arm tie rod end?

[@FlashPerformance1]

REPLACEMENT TIE ROD END PART NUMBERS: OEM part # J8136600 - - MOOG part # ES140R OEM part # J8136674 - - MOOG part # ES62L Note: ZJ Grand Cherokee's may use OEM part # 52000599 - - MOOG part # ES2223R at the pitman arm instead of the # ES140R Complete Replacement Parts Package Part # RS-SC250-PARTS (Fits: TJ,YJ,XJ Models) Part # RS-SC250-ZJ-PARTS (Fits: ZJ Models) www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-steering-components-conversions-upgrades/rustys-jeep-steering-systems/rustys-jeep-xj-tj-yj-zj-tie-rod-steering-system.html

[@enkneegivendaze1246]

Thanks what about the drag link ends?

[@FlashPerformance1]

@@enkneegivendaze1246 Everything should be in that link I attached. I took that directly from their website

[@garrettosteen2129]

Can you still run a 15” wheel with this setup?

[@FlashPerformance1]

I wouldn't see why not. This set up is not any bigger then the factory set up. I would still recommend calling Rusty's to ask. They will know much better then I will.

[@cvance66]

Hey man, what fender flares are on the jeep in this video....I have a 98 Sahara and wondering if they were bushwhackers?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Yes, you are correct. They fender flares are from bushwacker.

[@brunoribeiro109]

My jeep isnt lifted yet but want this upgrade. Do i need to install the lift kit first or can i do this before that step?

[@FlashPerformance]

It is recommended to do the lift first. When you talk with Rusty's they will ask you what you lift is because that could change the length of your steering link. If you know what height of lift you are going run in the future call the Rustys tech department if this kit can be ran on a stock and whatever lift you are going to do.

[@AB714AA]

which is the part # to get it thanks

[@FlashPerformance1]

RS-SC250-UV www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-steering-components-conversions-upgrades/rustys-jeep-steering-conversions/rustys-jeep-xj-tj-yj-zj-tie-rod-conversion.html

[@zacjason1610]

I’ve got a 4 inch skyjacker suspension lift. I took my jeep to the shop and they said it’d be $550 to replace my tie rod ends to fix my death wobble. Does this crossover steering have issues with that?

[@FlashPerformance1]

This kit is a perfect solution for your issue. I recommend contacting Rustys directly and letting them know your set up and they can get you into the right kit. This setup is much stronger than just replacing your current tie rod ends. and you can do it at home and save the money...

[@zacjason1610]

Chad Schnitz thanks a ton. Just ordered it. I’ll have to contact them to see if I have to put the stock pitman arm back on or if it’s better to use the extended one. I’ve wanted to replace the steering for awhile so this works out a lot better for me. Have a good day!

[@dillonglassford1814]

Does the tie rod make contact with the track bar bolt when turning to the passenger side?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Mine does not, it was very close but at full lock I don't have any contact.

[@ricardosanchez4802]

Dillon Glassford mine dose, it busted the drag link boot already.

[@tjfrogbutt]

Yes it does even without the bolt it contacts. Now I'm stuck with a $300 piece of scrap. get the Currie.

[@thelastofus6988]

Would this work on a 97 tj sport .

[@FlashPerformance]

Yes, the set up would be the same for the 97 as well.

[@bsideadventures2180]

What motor is in thejeep?

[@FlashPerformance1]

4.0 6 Cyl

[@mattdesruisseau82]

I would not recommend this setup. Hits my trackbar bolt. Adjusting the steering stop restricts the right hand turn radius so much I had to just let it hit. Should come with offset tie rod ends.

[@joelwolfe]

drop pitman arm or nah?

[@FlashPerformance1]

Stock, If you use a drop arm with this kit it will bump steer real bad

[@samuelyolo7413]

primer comentario en español

[@ArturoRamirez-ef5jg]

samuel #yolo buena.