The Cure - RuffStuff Specialties

The Cure:
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/c...
OTK Steering Upgrade:
• "Y" Link Steering Upgr...
If you're Jeep wanders down the road like a lost dog... This could be your "cure." Often times a dead spot in the steering wheel is caused by the drag link forcing the tie rod to roll or rock back forth while turning left to right, right to left... This makes driving in a straight line difficult because your your steering components have to take up the slack of the roll before engaging properly. The Cure combats this and worked great in my set up! Learn more at ruffstuffspecialties.com.
Website: www.bleepinjeep.com
FaceBook: / bleepinjeep
This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
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[@kevinhornbuckle]

Excellent video. The image is really clear, allowing viewers to see a lot of detail in that beautiful set-up.

[@justxanotherxone]

Not one to be a stickler, but i don't see this working for too long. The Cure is used to the TRE on the y-link, not at the knuckle. "The Cure is only meant to be used on the drag link tie rod end in Y-link steering. Using The Cure at the steering knuckle/tie rod joints will not allow necessary flex in your steering system and could lead to failure of your tie rod ends or other steering components." - The bottom of the product page on RuffStuff's website

[@bleepinjeep]

+Brianna O'Connor Yep, you're absolutely right. We first put it at the drag link tie rod end and it stiffened things up too much! I was aware of the warning before installing it at the knuckle and that's why this isn't a "how to." In this particular instance I think the cure will work just fine the way we set things up. Thanks! - Tim

[@SuperAwesomeJared]

I found this video while looking for a howto and nearly installed it this way. Thank you for your comment!

[@Wooskii1]

Thanks, I may need to look into this! Mine clunks over bumps, but the Jeep handles fine at speed (It handles better at 70 then at 40, I don't know why). Also I don't have any sway bars, or steering stabilizer...

[@michaelgutierrez6293]

i like the set up from iron rock offroad over the knuckle

[@mikebalzerhuge]

Hey Tim I did my freeze plug without removing intake/exhaust Mani. Lol

[@thomasbrown6900]

I find it hard to believe you are not experiencing "bump steer" when your drag link and track bar are far from parallel. You need to either raise the pitman arm end of the drag link or lower the driver's side of the track bar (the joints pivot points need to be parallel) to have them respond to a bump in sync.

[@richtyler1353]

Very cool info thanks I actually building the same on my 98 Xj

[@ericfaley9019]

What about bump steer?? The track bar is now way lower than the tie rod? There supposed to be parallel. I'm fighting bump steer since I went from a short with drop brackets to a long arm radius arm set. I'm running the stock style steering with heavy duty tie tube. Camber -6 degrees. Well in spec. Caster 6.6 l. 6.5 r.( have low pinion diff can't go anymore) tie .23 toe in. According to our alignment rack at work my specs are spot on.

[@alnbaba]

I've had issues with tie rod roll with my lifted ranger. When I'm on the trail the tie rod will roll and you won't notice it until you get on the highway and hit a pothole or feel some vibration in the front end. I've chewed threw plenty of tie rods because of it.

[@arjanwilhelm3545]

Hi Tim, I have a question and hope you can / will help us. (I'm not the only one with this issue) First of all I want to say that I love the BleepingJeep vids and watch them with great joy. I live in the Netherlands and own a XJ. Just lifted it with a RC 4,5" lift. Now is the comfort in driving completly gone but I can't find any vids about this topic. All the modifications we see in the BleepingJeep vids are very nice and look great but if it affects the joy of driving then it's just not worth it! Please make a video / tutorial about this so I can build a awesome XJ which also is fun to drive with. Regards Arjan.

[@bonedigggss]

that jeep is so clean

[@ColinDies]

So, from what I can tell, you installed the "cure" in the wrong place, although, I'm guessing they were a little more lenient on where you "should" install it going back 7 years. Now, if you follow the instructions, you don't install it on the tie rod end, but rather where the drag link connects to the tie-rod (at the "Y"), and the newer versions actually replace the rubber boot itself.

[@hooleyboy]

Why did you remove your sway bar brackets? Didn't you bend up the OTK steering to clear them? Only asking because I will be doing the same, and was hoping to not have to relocate the sway bar brackets.

[@cableboxelite]

is that zirk fitting at 1:13 contacting the wheel?

[@JeepingJohnIrwin]

+cableboxelite Looks like it may hit the weight on the lip of the wheel!

[@bleepinjeep]

+cableboxelite Sure looks like it from the perspective of that shot but it clears the wheel and balancer. Everything about this steering set up is close to other components but nothing contacts. Works for me! - Tim

[@cableboxelite]

+BleepinJeep I saw it a pooped a little

[@billpickelheimer8142]

Mite not have tie rod twist but I can see it has bump steer like crazy , way different angles on drag link and Trac bar, I think that mite be way more important than tie rod twist

[@shaunfleming2211]

Do you need to do a new alignment after you install “the cure”? Sorry if it’s a dumb question, but I’m new to jeeps and have been learning as I go.

[@FreAkLeFtY555]

on a setup like this , do you need a steering stabilizer ?????????

[@user-rk5ub6lm6e]

On RuffStuff’s website they have a video with the owner of ruffstuff saying not to use the cure on the steering knuckle tie rod end, only on the drag link tie rod end. Wondering why you used it on the knuckle?

[@alex_ottomano]

will this set up work with 4 inch backspaced wheels?

[@khndenmark]

I like your videos very much. And I hear you and your colleagues ask us, the viewers, to give you thumbs up, checking your links and join your here on KZbin. When we do that, it gives you a lot of advantages, that is also ok, because you make the videos. But then, I also think that you have obligations to answer every single question we ask you. It must go both ways. Please think of that.

[@bradellis6223]

How do they do under articulation? Do they bind?

[@shaebossley7329]

So over 4 years later..Are you still running the cure on the passenger side knuckle? And how has it held up? I just tried the cure on the drag link in my setup and it didn't help much. I think it would work better on the knuckle but ruffstuff says not to.

[@jeremy8715]

Ditto, I may too go the knuckle route.

[@Nothingtoya]

so, it's been a while, how's this working out?

[@richtyler1353]

From the little demonstration you did and wasn’t to clear but your zirk fitting looks like it comes awfully close to the sidewall of your tire at the angle we saw it from it wasn’t to clear. Could have been just the angle of the video. If it is close however do you think it could be a problem when airing down for off road.

[@zefrimohd2619]

Do you have for RHD?

[@joe8388]

Just put JCR's 1 ton steering on my XJ, however I don't have tie rod roll, my drag link rolls instead. And tracks down the road like crap

[@Steeda04SVT]

joe8388 how are you liking that kit?

[@joe8388]

After some final adjustments I really like it. My alignment shop did a crap job that's why I was having issues. Put about 1500 good hard miles on the kit and they are great.

[@Steeda04SVT]

joe8388 was thinking of going with their 1 ton kit. Did you install it yourself and ream out the knuckles yourself or have a shop do it?

[@joe8388]

I installed myself and reamed. It's very easy. Just take your time on reaming. Follow the links on JCR's page on which reamer and drill bit to buy. If unsure of doing it, get yourself a trashed knuckle and practice on that if you can. When reaming, keep it heavily oiled while keeping a slow speed. Too fast will cause chatter. Stop very frequently to check your work. It is deep enough when you get the the tie rod end in far enough to thread the castellated nut on so you can easily put the cotter pin in. The pitman arm is the hardest part as it is hardened steel. It will take a lot of work and is the most frustrating. I did mine installed on the Jeep, but if you can set it up in a sturdy vise it might be easier that way. Just remember to keep the correct tie rod ends where they are supposed to go, as the taper for the drag link going into the pitman arm is bigger than the knuckles On the passenger knuckle, take off the dust boot and replace it with the solid poly spacer and make sure to use that to check your depth. If not it will go too deep. When that is fully installed you don't want to squash it, just so that it is tight in between the knuckle and tie rod

[@Wooskii1]

I have CavFab "high clearance crossover" steering, and I have bad drag link roll instead- the drag link flops/clanks on large bumps (I'm guessing it's due to it being all heim joints? bad idea???) Any "cure" or advice? it drives great on highway/ around town without sway bars... but I don't like that beating it must be taking!

[@bleepinjeep]

Loosen the jam nuts and rotate the hems so one is leaned forward and the other back. Then tighten jam nuts. It won't be able to move.

[@reprep2353]

Is this part useful for a stock XJ? I've got a 1991 4x4

[@jamesmerkel9442]

the gease fitting needs a bend 75 degs or so, comment 57 showing

[@vincewhat1]

Have you had problems with the cure being mounted on the knuckle ?

[@bleepinjeep]

No. I think it works better there even though RuffStuff says not to install it on the knuckle. I ran one on the Green Machine at the knuckle for a year without issue as well.

[@vincewhat1]

Awsome thanks for the info. I figured there isn't much flex at the knuckle anyway because the tie rod runs parallel to the axle.

[@joshprice7545]

what brand bumper is that?

[@15FAL]

+Josh Norman affordable offroad

[@MusicSoundPlayer]

Does 'The Cure' replace the dust boot? I'm about to go put'er on. It would be nice if that info was on their site(wink wink). I like businesses that valve my time(wink wink).

[@Robdutton91]

Did you ever find that out? It looks like it does from other videos I saw

[@bobhunt3197]

Very nice machine Tim, how did you like those tires, I'm looking at getting some, thank's in advance.

[@bleepinjeep]

BFG makes really good tired. I've owned two sets of KM2 mud terrains over the years and one set of the original KM1 muds they were all excellent! I really like the idea of their newish all terrains too.

[@bobhunt3197]

Thanks for the response, have a good one.

[@benclancy8005]

Seems like a lot of pressure on the gearbox.

[@traea.doornek4363]

Doing same steering system on my 98 w/4.5 lift & 33s. Will the stock track bar and pitman arm work on the ruffstuff setup? I do plan to replace stock with an adjustable trackbar later on. If not stock what's the drop measurement on pitman arm and what trackbar would you recommend for the kit?

[@15FAL]

+Trae A. Doornek i would go with a rusty's offroad track bar and ruffstuff sells the drop pitman arm already reamed out with a 3.5 inch drop! and you will also have to buy the drill bits to ream out the knuckles! i have this kit under the knuckle on my 2001 jeep cherokee with a 6 inch lift

[@johnjames5020]

Not smart. You're putting pressure on the ball of the tie rod end that it was never designed for. Here's what Ruff Stuff says: The Cure is only meant to be used on the drag link tie rod end in Y-link steering. Using The Cure at the steering knuckle/tie rod joints will not allow necessary flex in your steering system and could lead to failure of your tie rod ends or other steering components.

[@RockyXTV]

. Don't let ur meat loaf!!!

[@tinytrax1978]

You’ll be a tough man to beat!

[@escapethefallalive]

your front end geometry is all jacked up. your drag link and track bar should be parallel, they aren't even close. bumpsteer like crazy.

[@15FAL]

+Aaron Clark you would think so but i have the same track bar from rusty and the same steering setup from ruffstuff except utk , and no death wobble at all even with 6.5 inches of lift on mine! its more about if the drag link and the track bar are the same length!

[@adamcontratto6116]

Mounting points are dead on parallel. What are you talking about?

[@anthoniemarx2496]

AAAAAAron has never seen a bent (on purpose) panhard. Noob.

[@escapethefallalive]

Anthonie Marx i'm far from a noob. i'm not referring to the bends, that has nothing to do with it. all that matters is the geometry from mounting point to mounting point of panhard (track bar) and the drag link. the mounting points should be parallel with each other.

[@anthoniemarx2496]

Right on AAAAAAron

[@andrewdipietro4538]

This video should be removed. It's not installed correctly. The directions specifically show NOT to install at the knuckles. Ruffstuff's video shows correct placement.

[@matt487]

*yawn*

[@Wooskii1]

I have CavFab "high clearance crossover" steering, and I have bad drag link roll instead- the drag link flops/clanks on large bumps (I'm guessing it's due to it being all heim joints? bad idea???) Any "cure" or advice? it drives great on highway/ around town without sway bars... but I don't like that beating it must be taking!

[@Wooskii1]

@TheDude Thanks, and what crazy timing! I just started working on it again, but I had to get it towed to the shop today (fuel line blew, couldn't move it). I can't believe I've had that thing for over 4 years now. I found a double-shear heim high-steer kit that will work with my setup for $200 that I'm going to go with. At most, I might need to make a new drag link.