Rusty Sill Repair on the MG TF!......Part 2!

[@markh6157]

Do NOT get down hearted! That is a monumental task you have undertaken for a novice (hope you don't mind me using that word). Body work / panel beating is an art, many people spend years to become proficient remember. Your fabrication and welding are truly great for a relative beginner, so you should be very proud of your achievement. As for your painting, you should consider only painting whole panels with spray guns, particularly with trying to match near 20 year old metalic silver! Your presentation is excellent, thank you for making your 2 videoes (I shall make a point of watch your others now). I can't wait to see that MG with a new MOT sometime this summer. Enthusiasm is 90% of any project, please do not give up. Well done, cheers

[@wheatleysworkshop]

Thanks for your kind words Mark 🙂

[@MrSuperheterodyne]

"It's just not pretty...." Proceeds to show a really nice welding job..... Nice work mate... really good.

[@barrycox5007]

You didn't disconnect the battery during arc welding as you've introduced a reverse current into a DC system so you may have fried something important

[@broomad]

Lee - your welding was very impressive !! I think you should be very pleased with yourself. Spraying silver of any type is really difficult. The flake in the paint coming out of the can falls in a less random way than when it was sprayed in the factory so is very difficult to match. Might be better to get a professional to do the painting if you want to get a result to match your welding :-)

[@Choober65]

I found angling the spray fan a bit so the top is further away than the bottom seems to help a lot with flake pattern, as does overthinning the silver. I use multiple overthinned coats spraying each layer at a different angle. Comes out nearly perfect. I do the same with topcoat. The result is a glass hard finish with a finish that doesn't need cutting afterwards.

[@42alman]

Welding good for a beginner of sorts. Well done. One tip is when you have the sill open like that insert a long vacuum part into the sill as far as you can go, clean it out and use Bilt & Hamber internal protective wax with its long insert. Great way to add a layer of protection. I also sprayed rust converter I to the sill all the way down with sacrificial he's for access and after that had cured I added the wax. I feel its a good next step when you are already have the access that you have. Not a great amount of additional cost and the large can lasts a long time. Just food for thought.

[@iangleadhall8436]

Cracking welding for a novice that! Nice panel making too, I’d pass that side no questions now, you’re learning the hard way with paint (like we all do) either pay the money for a pro to get it perfect or paint the whole section, invisibly blending with rattle cans is virtually impossible. It keeps the water off while you save up though 😄👌

[@johnathandavis9626]

Fantastic fabrication. When prepping a panel for paint, its best to fine sand wherever you will have paint. Its called keying the panel,

[@MartinGtir]

Great work 👌 dont stress over the paint as silver is hard to blend and match.

[@b4tm4nrubin33]

I have the same rust/corroded area on my 2007 A6, I have looked at a load of “how to” videos and yours is certainly the one that is giving me the confidence to start cutting, shaping some sheet steel and make a new rear bit for it. Thank you and I hope mine turns out as well as yours does on the metal work/ welding. Dont worry about the paint. It protects at the end of the day

[@garrybestwick3525]

Great video Lee. Your welding was fine Lee, it really is a learn as you go experience, it does get easier, honest. The painting and body work in general has always been a nightmare for me, perhaps not for others. But again, it does get easier as you learn what does and does not work. I tend not to paper/tape off on localised repairs, I let the gun blend in to the surrounding paint naturally rather than a harsh line. It seems to work. I’m currently on my third restoration on an MGB GT and I do the whole car respray using cellulose in the garage. Seems to work ok. Keep up the good work Lee, I’m dying to get rid of this GT it’s killing me and back onto my TF. 👍

[@colinbooth6908]

Lee, get yourself a Compressor and a spray gun then you can spray the whole panel. Great welding by the way 👍.

[@TK42138]

Good videos. I had same issues when welding my outer sill and wheel arch of my 1992 Rover 216 GTi. Some of those outer panels were 0.75mm - horrible to weld when using a clunky SIP Migmate. Lowest setting - not enough penetration so increased the voltage and it would vapourise the metal. Ended up changing my technique - do quick, hot welds and increase wire feed to fill the gap before it can blow through and allow plenty of cooling down between welds. Also good idea to keep the earth clamp as close as practically possible to the welding area - even if it means removing paint on an otherwise solid part.

[@johnwall5624]

Hello Brother. Nice repair! On the finish paint, maybe mask off to seam lines, then when painting, do a bit of dusting of the paint, where you will actually get paint over the whole panel. However, dusting over and over, time after time, until the blend disappears. Otherwise, nice job! You're 😎 not afraid of negative remarks. I'll back you every time!! Thanks 😉

[@markfourtyeight]

Well done Lee, thought you did very well, good luck with the other side 😂

[@g.t.539]

Better use 600 grid next time to smooth out the edges of the primer before spraying basecoat and use finishing putty after the bondo. Always use 2k clear coat. 1k will not get hard enough. You will polish it away and use a real DA or rotary . That thing you've used has not the necessary rpm and therefore does not reach the temperatures needed for cutting 2K clear coat. Good luck.

[@robbokeys]

Nice work Lee, really enjoy your channel. I had a 2003 TF. I did a lot of work using your channel as a guide over lock down. In the end I got so fed up with the shoddy quality of the MG I decided to call it as day as rust was setting in… maybe get an Audi TT or Z4 instead 😂… however don’t as I love your channel & look forward to the next episode ha ha…

[@rudgefeist2366]

Fantastic display of Skill and Patience. All the best chief.

[@wheatleysworkshop]

Many thanks 😊 🙏

[@JAYPCARS]

Great job! Just looking into welding for the first time and found the videos useful! 😁

[@joseph6327]

Na pohled z vrchu moc krásná práce.Co mi však chybí ten detail od spodku kde se spojuje práh s podlahou. Ještě dopilovat videika.👍

[@Kendoddsdadsdogsdead532]

Fantasic work mate! I have exactly the same challenge on my TF. Mine is in Sonic Blue. Great fabrication and that repair will last longer than the rest of the car!

[@deerawselecta7709]

Tip on the painting,keep basecoat as local to repair as possible,always lacquer about 6 inches from where basecoat ends.silver is hard to blend out unless u use a spraygun to control pressure etc.these cars may have a fuel cut off switch,could be why it's not starting.

[@swifty2844]

When painting the panel I would probably of keyed the entire panel with a scotch pad, masked off just the door, window, bumper and boot. Then blended the silver paint out over the rest of the panel so you don't get a hard edge. Silver is a massive pain to blend as it is. Or do all the prep work, metal work and get a paint shop to spray just that panel.

[@kierankay100]

Sometimes it can be easier to just cut a section out that includes rust but is fresh metal at the cuts ... then you can use this piece you have cut out to mark out on the fresh sheet metal and bend and mold to suit ... Great work I'm getting into this sort of thing myself I've just found little ways to make it easier... have a look on ebay for buzzweld cavity paint it has a nozzle you can insert into the sills and spray it helps with internal corrosion that obviously can't be helped ...

[@neildallison4433]

This was really informative and highlighted the challenges. A good effort 👍

[@cezcars]

Just found your channel, Great video'. I tried welding for the first time yesturday which was fun and in a few months I will be tackling the rusty sill on my Daewoo Lacceti. Keep up the good work.

[@speleo1770]

Nice lathe work you do a brilliant job. anybody else would just use a nut and bolt and a couple of washers.

[@monkey555500]

really good video...ive not used my mig for years but its in the shed...its enjoyable to see the repair process

[@StewSims]

Great job - really nice filming with the detail on the repair patches you made. Don't worry about the paint - silver is a real bugger you could wet sand and cut and polish for days and it might blend a bit better but it'll never be perfect. I have a small amount of sill rust on one of our cars and I'm debating what to do for MOT time. Trouble is I know as soon as I start attacking it there will be a bigger area to repair and right now I just don't have the time for that! Maybe I'll chuck it in for MOT and see what they say.

[@trevormcilwain3912]

Really like your style and attitude about my level of ability was interested in your thoughts on the mig welding and the painting. Thanks

[@42alman]

Lee also ensure you insert a good drainage point when you are rebuilding as you are to prevent future issues.

[@theMGTF]

Another great video and a good effort on the paint job! I found blending starlight silver very difficult too. I ended up having the sill resprayed by a body shop in the end. The only other thing I tried to help with blending the edges was to use folded over pieces of A4 paper to create a softer edge. Was still pretty obvious though. I suspect our cars have also faded over the years too and the best way to get a colour match is to get the paint scanned by a paint shop.

[@CurboroughSprinter]

Somebody’s been watching Fitzee’s Fabrications! Cut and butt! 😂. EDIT: just read your description. Doh! 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@CarsWithWillo]

Great video, very clearly presented. The fabrication looks fantastic! As you mentioned, metallic silver is particularly hard to blend- I think a body shop would blend over the whole panel. Thanks for the video!

[@p.istaker8862]

Good work on the welding front and impressive work. As for the paint, you should feather out the base/colour cat to almost nothing. unfortunately you sprayed to the masking line, leaving an obvious spray line. masking line should have been at least another six inches away

[@markjones8846]

CFH = cubic feet per hour. I think you have a done a really good job with the rust repair. When it comes to painting and blending, its very difficult to blend because the original paint is water-based and what is in the rattle can is not (lacquer maybe?) and so the two colours are slightly different. The only way I know to get them to match is by a professional, who will paint the entire panel. But, I think what you have done looks good and will do the job for now, its going to keep the tin worm at bay.

[@philipslater9450]

I'm no mot tester but what I see is a good job. Well done.

[@johnrainbird1155]

Great video well done 👍 can’t wait for the next one.

[@EIKLURAM]

I'd just spray over the lines where the masking tape was. That would make it look less obvious maybe?

[@Choober65]

I would NEVER use rattle cans after having bought a spray gun and compressor. The finish is infinitely better and it is SOOOO much easier to feather in edges.

[@ashnyc90]

Great video mate I think you need a finer paper than 2000grit for polishing but it still came out ok. You can get spot putty for the pin holes

[@richards-garage]

Great work! Love it

[@remismar4416]

Did you manage to start the car? What was the issue? 😮

[@happygolfertimmins6132]

Great video, as always. Will T-CUT make any difference?

[@Allanicars]

while the vent cover was off.. get some spray underseal/wax into the area you only sprayed with primer

[@wheatleysworkshop]

It's a good shout Allan, I've bought some hammerite underbody with waxoyl, should help 👍

[@johnmcphee2201]

i think you may be better putting a top coat and laquer over the whole quarter panel. it maybe won't be so noticable as for the rest of your work top job for a bloke in a garage with minamal tools and experience.

[@gabrieln91]

Hey. Is that type of paint durable enough ? That is not 2k right ?

[@richardevans4529]

Mg Lee can you recommend a gas welder to me please?

[@stupidscruff]

Can of lacquer blender needed

[@halldorra]

I hope you disconnected the battery before welding?

[@slovert]

That would explain non starter...

[@bantampop3532]

10/10 AAA++

[@carlsagan2371]

This video was brought to you by Woolworths.

[@wheatleysworkshop]

😆😁

[@deep6thisdeep6this92]

don't see any problem with the process, just a bad color match, IMO.

[@MiniFun92]

u spend way to much time on 1 weldspot. Beter to have more power and spend a fraction of a second. Cuz more tim is more heat transfer.

[@akaski777]

Welding thin sheet is not easy arc welding can burn holes ,gas mig welding in the wind the gas screen can be blown away its better with a core welding mig wire , i welded some pieces on my car for MOT the tester rejected it dint think it was strong enough weld . i use some mini gas welding bottles with filler wire now as they are portable . still dont like welding rusty cars it horrible dirty time consuming job .

[@neilfranklin9891]

If you hadn't done this would the car had failed the mot

[@42alman]

Love your videos and attitude Lee but for an additional 30 mins of time and effort and filler you would have had it sweet.

[@loser2gravity]

Close masking always leaves hard edges that are hard to blend. Mask around the whole panel for maximum blend area, and if need be spray the whole panel. Eg: photos.app.goo.gl/LPXLkgcuvUgJi9mLA

[@johnhowell5338]

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