RV Converter Replacement for dummies. Upgrade from WFCO 8735P to Lithium-Ready WFCO 8735AD.

[@lizandtimmusic]

Thanks, Greg. I need to upgrade my 8735 to an 8735-AD, so this was perfect!

[@benca101]

Thanks Greg! This is going to be very helpful for me.. so nice to see someone do this who hasn't already done it a million times. Thanks again!

[@katypatton1886]

This is so helpful. I have the same trailer model, a few months older. I was thinking to change this out before it goes out on a trip.

[@danjiles]

AWESOME JOB, THANKS FOR POSTING THIS. I AM DOING THIS PROJECT THIS WEEKEND, SAME MODEL CHANGEOUT. P TO AD. I AM SWITCHING TO LIFEPO4 BATTERY. THANKS AGAIN.

[@dragnldy52]

Thanks so much for this video. The amount of detail you supplied was awesome. I'm about to launch into the same exact project as I am upgrading my Aliner Ranger 12 battery from lead/acid to LiFePO4 and needed the correct converter. I hope to have as much success as you did.

[@dustingreen9075]

I'm planning the same job on my Jayco 145RB. Same converter swap. Supper helpful!

[@cherip4573]

You made that look so easy. Thank you.

[@kevinsonner2477]

Nice job Greg! I do appreciate the help!!

[@bjnslc]

Don't go for the WFCO auto detect unit. It's a tremendous pain to get it to recognize LiFePo batteries...if you can get it to work at all. The WFCO auto detect requires you to completely discharge your lithium battery, and then run through a complete charge cycle before it's supposed to detect the different response of the lithium vs. lead-acid. It failed to detect my new lithium battery. And I've seen reports of issues with the AD unit forgetting the lithium setting...forcing you do do the full discharge and long auto detect charging cycle repeatedly. The Progressive Dynamics 4100 has a similar form factor to the WFCO 8735 and it has a simple switch for selecting between lead-acid and lithium modes.

[@johnmichaelkoosbreazeal9748]

I discharged my lipo battery to 10.9v, kept the solar disconnected the whole time. Then plugged the trailer back into shore power only and it switched right over. I have the old firmware on the unit.

[@chrisz.9974]

Thank you. I think my converter is bad. Looking to replace with something lithium compatible.

[@dalekarraker6851]

Agreed - mine has been a bit of a pain. I'm not terribly savvy with electrical issues, so it has to be simple and easy to manage. Not feeling like this 8740 is helping me.

[@brianhogan386]

My question is the old converter has 12 Low voltage fuses and my new one has 7 low voltage fuses so do I double the feed lines to power up ???

[@mattpierce4108]

very helpful video thanks for posting

[@Rachel-zc8ur]

I'm going to buy a lithium power charger for my lithium batteries INSTEAD of replacing my old power converter. My question for you Greg is, for those DC wires on the right side, it should be easy enough to open it up and see where the DC output to charge the batteries comes from right? Basically, I want to dead end that cable so that my system can remain powered from the new lithium battery, but I want to disable charging to the lithium battery from the power converter. I have the WFCO 8935PEC.

[@tonioverby567]

The red light comes on and off then back to green by the fuse that’s labeled 6 - 30 amp battery fridge. I believe this is why my battery runs low at times causing my fridge to alarm. Any idea what cause this? Should I check the wire connection? Great video

[@netlans]

It looks like you had a lot of extra wire. I was wondering if it was possible to leave the wires hooked up and pull the unit out a foot or so? It seems like it would be easier to disconnect and connect the wires plus you could move them over one at a time. This would only work if you had enough slack.

[@GottaGoOutside]

The power center in my 180 was stolen so I have no idea which wires attach where. If I had removed them I'd know exactly where they go. Do you have any tips on how to determine the answer? Great video, thanks!

[@gregoutandabout]

Stolen? I'm sorry to hear that happened to you! What year was your trailer manufactured? This might be a good question to pose in the Facebook Rpod model 180 owners forum. Another owner with the same model year might have an answer.

[@aussiesandtrails]

Looking to get a spare WF-8955-AD in case my orginal 8955 fails. Also I want to install an EMP shield on mine. Unfortunately, my converter box is in a small space under my rv fridge. Not much room to work. Thanks for the tips.

[@projet2907]

What is an EMP ?

[@murdiesel]

Great video!

[@edyoung6573]

Well done!!!!

[@golombardo]

What is the Bluetooth battery monitor make/model you mention in the video? It seems very useful!

[@gregoutandabout]

Hi! Here is a link to the one I purchased on Amazon, made by Ancel: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCW49YM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@golombardo]

Thank you! Great video too, I like how you explain things!@@gregoutandabout

[@aussiesandtrails]

Is it waterproof? I am looking to get one for the marine battery that is in an enclosure sitting on the tongue jack of my rv right behind my propane tanks.@@gregoutandabout

[@gregoutandabout]

I don't think the battery monitor is rated to be mounted outdoor in potentially wet locations.@@aussiesandtrails

[@ChefBoiImHungry]

my 1989 terry resort has stock 30 amp fuse panel i ordered the wfco 30 amp an i got the 55 amp wf-8955 model.... can i still use this on my 30 amp system?

[@aussiesandtrails]

Yes. I have the 8955PEC and I called WFCO and was told all their models are 55 amp even though they work with 30 amp.

[@mikegentile13]

This was sooo helpful. I have the same power converter as you started with. I also just upgraded to a lithium battery. As I understand it, the lithium battery needs a little more voltage than the lead acid. If I upgrade the auto detect will solve thi?

[@gregoutandabout]

That’s what they advertise but I haven’t changed out my batteries yet so I will be looking for advice at that time, just as you are!

[@mark98070]

You can buy that converter only and install it in your power center. Don't have to change out the entire panel.

[@joeladams8921]

link?

[@DaveRisinger]

Hi Greg, I am looking to make the exact same change on my Ranger 12 A-Liner, I have the 8735P as well. I appreciate your video, very well done! Got an e-mail from WFCO today telling me I should not swap converters if my battery is more than 10 ft. away from the converter. Curious to know how far apart your battery and converter are and is the cabling to your battery #10 wire gauge. Thanks, Dave

[@gregoutandabout]

I’m guessing yeah 10 gauge but it might be 12. Converter and battery are probably 10 feet as the crow flies but I’m not sure how many cable feet there are once the wire disappears into the frame.

[@DaveRisinger]

@@gregoutandabout thanks for the reply!

[@mrq1701]

What has your experience been with the Auto Detect version?

[@gregoutandabout]

@@mrq1701 it’s been flawless so far, after 1 year of use.

[@carsteng286]

I’ve been doing a lot of research on this, and although the AD model stands for auto detect, according to WFCO spec sheets has the same output voltage for the standard model and the AD model, so the AD model still can’t fully charge lithium batteries. I’m not an expert nor an electrician, just going off what the specs say.

[@kims.8718]

My WFCO converter in my Model WF-8735P Power Center just died in my 2015 TAB S Max trailer, so this video was very interesting. I still have a lead acid battery in the trailer, but converting to lithium soon is my goal, so I want to replace my current failed power center. I've heard there are two choices in replacing your power center when you upgrade to lithium: One is the WFCO Model WF-8735AD as you show in this video, and the other is the WFCO Model WF-8740AD. I am wondering if the WF-8740AD is a newer version that has come out since this video, which might now be what I should replace with?

[@gregoutandabout]

To my knowledge the only difference between the 8735AD and the 8740AD is the amperage rating. 35 max for the 8735 and 40 for the 8740. Since I wasn’t upgrading anything that required a higher amperage, I replaced straight across with an 8735AD. You might consult the T@B manufacturer for their guidance.

[@kims.8718]

@@gregoutandabout Thanks, Greg!! I contacted the TAB NuCamp company, and they said they are currently putting in the 8735AD in their TAB 320's. I definitely want to make sure I get the newer V.19 (or possibly V.20??) firmware, however, when I order the power center. Now that a V.20 firmware is available, would that be the best one to get? I still have a lead acid battery in my 2015 TAB S Max, but would really like to change over to lithium at some point. Would the V.20 firmware then be best? Is the company you ordered your power center from able to determine which firmware number they are sending out if you specify the firmware you want?

[@gregoutandabout]

@@kims.8718 I don’t know anything about firmware versions so I’d go with what T@B recommends. Good luck!

[@muhjeepsrock3161]

I thought the converter alone could be replaced without replacing the entire power center? Is this not an option because you upgraded to the one that will charge Lithium?

[@gregoutandabout]

For this particular model, the converter is integrated into the power center, so if there’s a way to access and extract just the converter it wasn’t evident to me. Besides, I think the computers/motherboard inside the old power center are not lithium compatible, so you gotta replace the entire thing.

[@MarkSDCA]

Shame we can't just replace the converter board. I would like to upgrade my8735AD to a 45 amp unit.

[@Frenchy5117]

Does the 8735ad charge the house battery when plugged into shore power ?

[@kcstrom7676]

You can replace just the converter. You don't have to replace the entire wall unit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/haGXoaaKp85pn8k for example.

[@LupeGuevara-gm6ct]

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