RV Heater Best Solution For Cold Weather. Stay Warm And Protect The Water Lines.

Today I wanted to give you a rundown of the heaters we use to stay warm in the RV when it gets cold outside. Using the right heater in the right situation can make RVing in the cold freezing temps much more enjoyable.
Diesel Heater. amzn.to/3HNK4O1
Olympian Catalytic heater bit.ly/3hDTTDm
Etrailer Olympian Heater. bit.ly/3WdWYct
Amazon amzn.to/3hDSnkE
Portable Buddy heater. amzn.to/3v6kjAM
Heat Pump AC. amzn.to/3FC2X3u
Space heater. amzn.to/3FBfHaM
Extreme Heater. amzn.to/3BOg54s
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[@cryptickcryptick2241]

I used a Mr. Heater Buddy in a truck camper and found that the pilot light was actually useful to take the chill off at night. I was not comfortable running the Mr. Buddy Heater at night, but it worked great during the day and could heat up my small space well. The downside of having the heater off at night was it could be very cold in the morning. In the truck camper, just the pilot light could warm up the space 20 degrees warmer than it would otherwise be. Body heat alone will make it a few degrees warmer in the camper, and I normally had a window cracked for humidity control (plus the camper had plenty of air leaks). This was sort of like running a candle all night expect the pilot light puts off about 7 times the heat of a candle. Getting out of bed in the morning was a lot more pleasant when the temperature was in the 50's as opposed to in the 30's.

[@JAYFEATHERBOONDOCKS]

1. I’m glad you mentioned the lack of humidity from RV furnace. I hear that a lot that they do cause humidity but I know for a fact it is extremely dry heat. 2. My calculations on furnace vs diesel heater was that my propane furnace costs less to fuel and only used 1 Ah more per hour than the diesel heater. (My camper is 20’ and propane is relatively cheap where I’m at) so I will not get one simply due to me not wanting to carry around a third fuel even though I would prefer the diesel heater because it is quieter. 3. I’ve used buddy heaters in campers for a decade now and had great success. Luckily I live in extremely dry climate and the condensation become overwhelming. I too only ran it when I was awake and inside the camper. Shut it off when sleeping or outside. 4. Thanks for showing the extreme heat I hadn’t seen that before.

[@pdirv]

Some notes from a lifetime camper and mobile tech/mechanic: 1. The furnace and diesel heaters are what I call "uneven extreme heat". They'll put out ~180F-200F+ with no problem like you showed in the video. In a small space though, that heat is so hot, that you may find it that you have to take your blanket off while it's running, and then it shuts off and cools off that you need to cover yourself back up. Ultimately, it leads to not so great night sleeping. 2. On the class B diesel heater you showed, or really anything like that, where you're tying into the fuel line, the issue I see is people let it run too long, and it draws the fuel below ~1/4 tank, then they go to run the generator, or are also running the generator and the generator won't start or turns off due to the low fuel cutoff. So either occasionally check your fuel level, or install an auxiliary gauge if that's possible. 3. I know you didn't want to cover them, but on the Aqua Hot, Oasis, and other similar systems, you're basically dealing with a larger factory installed version of the class B system, but it normally also handles your on demand hot water, and potentially things like radiant floor heating. The key things with these systems is the maintenance. I would say 3 out of 4 service calls I get on these units could have been avoided. Like most things, turning a $50-$100 preventative piece into a $300-$500 service call. 4. It's possible, but probably unlikely that your 15K BTU A/C also does 15K BTU on the heat pump side. It probably only does ~12K BTU on the heat pump.

[@trevonkollars1874]

I own a 5k diesel heater and I have to say I love it! I keep it in my cargo van to keep my liquids (I'm a handyman) from freezing. It does shut off. It maintains the temp that you set and once it reaches that, it shuts off and then restarts at the temp setting you set it at, just like the furnace. I have no problem running it all night on the 1 litre tank it came with and the van battery. Never had an issue with it draining the battery. It gets cold here btw. We are in the negatives a lot here recently.

[@danemmerich6775]

Which Brand diesel heater do you own? Do you recommend another brand?

[@ltpsalm63]

@trevonkollars1874 I’d also love to know the brand of heater you referred to, and a year later if you’d still recommend it. Is it an all in one diesel heater?

[@larrydowns6267]

We’ve used the Olympian Wave 8 for years now, very happy with it.

[@ronb6182]

Outdoor only heaters are not for an RV. That includes all Mr and Buddy heaters. 73

[@warrenbaker2586]

One of the better videos on heaters that I have watched. Good job.

[@timothyculliver1993]

Great job! I would also recommend the 1,200-Watt Electric Oil-Filled Radiant Space Heater, they work very well. Cost less than $60.00 at The Home Depot.

[@jeremywaldrop3247]

+1 on the electric oil heaters, just picked on up the other day at Home Depot and work very well. We have left it on 24/7 since we got it.

[@NickKarpen]

I thought about it but worry about it leaking after bouncing around on travel days.

[@uhjyuff2095]

I heard that the oil filled heaters overheat and then the internal safety switch shuts off the heater so that means they don't actually produce as much heat as a space heater with a fan or heating coil. Try putting a kill-a-watt meter and blast it on full and then compare it to another heater on full power for a hour or two and see which one puts out more POWER!

[@magician2020]

I have a 38' Class A and used a Big Buddy heater upfront and Mr. Buddy heater in the back half (bathroom/bedroom) and used them for an entire winter in Phoenix. I would have the top vent cracked open and the fan on 10% and worked well.

[@MyMy-tv7fd]

the best RV heater is Florida

[@duane4972]

Great unless you are a Floridian and acclimated to the area. I have been out west to Quartzite Arizona, the nights are colder and the lack of humidity dried my skin terribly. Also the non stop wind and dust and allergens are the deal breakers. Florida for the WIN !!

[@Montu4g63]

Except I live in FL and it's going to below freezing over night for a few days over the holiday

[@donaldbailey5576]

@@Montu4g63 You must be above Tampa.

[@Montu4g63]

@@donaldbailey5576 yup, even Tampa is towing the line at 33 though

[@donaldbailey5576]

@@Montu4g63 Ya. These two days of winter a year are killer.

[@RVwithTito]

Tip: To heat a large area, put a fan behind an oil heater (on high). I've heated my entire house doing this with a box fan while on generator. Stay comfy! 😃

[@AllAboutRVs]

Great tip! Thanks Brian!

[@bobknob8440]

I use the oil heater in my house as well. Fan really helps push that heat around. I used a Mr. Buddy and separate fan when I lived in my RV and it worked great for me. I was cheap and didn't want to use to much propane so I found using it in the late evenings when temps are freezing kept the RV warm for a couple hours so I could sleep under a heavy blanket. In the morning, I turn it on again to get my body moving.

[@xXRenaxChanXx]

Another option that doesn't get discussed much is that some RV AC units have the option of installing a heat-strip or other type of heating-element. Although they're usually only designed for chilly weather, not extreme below zero cold. They basically turn your AC unit into a 1500watt space heater. (Or 5200BTU)

[@Apollyon67]

Would the electric strip heat help reduce the humidity from a propane heater? Also, why don't the RV dealers ask the furnace makers to have an "on" setting for use when you use an alternative heat source to keep the wetbay heated?

[@randybobandy9828]

May as well stick with a space heater. I bought my 1500w heaters for $12 each lol.

[@xXRenaxChanXx]

@@Apollyon67 I honestly have no idea. I just know they exist.

[@mondavou9408]

Thanks for sharing. I didn't know they existed.

[@goud2488]

Are you talking about a heat pump?

[@FelipeAdventures]

Great video! I really liked how you started talking about efficiency and cost of use of the RV furnace, but then you stopped talking about that and went more into safety and how you use it and that is amazing and great info. However, it would be really cool if you talked about efficiency and cost of use on all of them. I know that is extremely hard specifically since most of the heaters you mentioned have different applications. I think the information that most full-timers that are in cold environments are looking for is How to keep pipes from freezing and inside warm the cheapest! At least that is the info I'm looking for! 😆 I hope I was not negative towards your work into this video, it was great info! Thank you and Merry Christmas!

[@mgkleym]

The electric heaters are all 100% efficient. The heat pump is around 300% "efficient" since its moving heat instead of directly converting electricity to heat. The diesel heater should be similar to the propane furnace. The unvented propane heaters are technically 100% efficient, but in practice you're losing more heat than you would normally because you have to crack a window so it's mostly a wash vs the forced air furnace. The main advantage for them is zero electrical usage. If you have shore power it's usually cheaper to run resistive heaters than use hydrocarbon fuels. Heat pump is way cheaper since your getting around 3 watts of heat for every 1 watt of electricity you use

[@marciabrainard9837]

Watched for info on catalytic heater you mentioned many times but did not deliver any info, ?….?….

[@FelipeAdventures]

@@mgkleym thank you for that information!

[@ianberry5879]

I've got two 1500 watt space heaters in my 28 foot class C with no slides, it's a winterized unit with great insulation and sprayed foam insulation underneath, with temps ranging from 25 to 45 in Virginia right now, I'm only using about $10 a week in electricity at 10 cents per kw/h to keep it at 60 inside when I'm at work and 68 when I am there. If it's getting into the lower 20s overnight, I'll fire the propane furnace too with the thermostat set at 65 just to make sure the pipes don't freeze.

[@vernonsteinkamp1088]

I purchased an older RV (1981), and the previous owner removed the furnace and the water heater. I purchased a Little Buddy (propane, boondocking) and I also have a small electric heater (plug in campsite)

[@mtgut1962]

Remember if you have a diesel heater you can buy diesel for off-road which has no fuel tax. Depending on the state that is a significant amount of money. If you use your fuel card at the pump for discount. Just flip it over for reefer fuel. No tax on it. Just a suggestion.

[@gregpatey6355]

the standard rv furnace can be made about 30% more efficient just by SEALING the distribution manifold with foil ducting tape.... also, straightening out and shortening (as needed) the duct tubing will help a lot, as manufactures like to use a lot more than is necessary and just wad it up behind the access panel and call it an "install well done".... the fan in these RV furnace units run fast and blows reasonably hard, but due to the resistance of the many feet of corrugated flexible duct lines they use, a LOT of the heated air escapes thru the many small joints and cracks in the manifold, which then gets sucked back in to the furnace intake to be heated again, and blown out to start the cycle all over again..... the only heated air that gets pushed out to the registers/vents is what can get blown thru the resistive duct tube at the lower pressure in the manifold due to the leakage AT the manifold... ducting with a smooth inner wall is 50% more efficient than the standard flexible mylar foil ducting is, BUT, sealing the gaps in the furnace manifold can offer an average of 30% more efficient heating throughout the RV than it does without being sealed.... anyone who questions if their system has leaks, just take a piece of tissue paper and hold it by its corner and move it slowly around the distribution manifold while the furnace is running, and you will quickly know if you have leaks... or use a lit candle and watch the flame get blown out from the escaping air....

[@magician2020]

I'm laughing just because I am planing for winter now while roasting in Phoenix with both ACs and an evaporative cooler running.

[@aMeemsb]

Using a propane fueled fire heater inside but open a window? Was glad to hear you say never sleep with propane open flamed heater on. My father died of carbin monoxide poisoning because the flame went out and the gas filled up the space. (Not in an RV, though, on his job in a Steel Mill) SO PLEASE EVERYONE- DONT USE INDOOR OPEN FLAMED PROPANE HEATERS- Especially in a small space- too many risks and ONE that you wont recover from ever.

[@dennislynton7706]

Nice review, the diesel cab heaters have come along way. Lavaner is now making some more high end units that stand up to the Webasto bench mark units. I use these heaters in Co at high altitude. For me it is all about reducing the propane consumption an fan noise.

[@joshpeterson7216]

How high of altitude?

[@dennislynton7706]

@@joshpeterson7216 normally around 8000 feet. Rabbit Ears pass snowmobiling. Been a cold winter -10 at night or lower with wind chill. Propane furnace runs but not very much. One heater in the RV another in sled trailer.

[@larrytanton5787]

Yeah we have the Thermoking in our semi trucks they put a lot of heat out but do have to be rebuilt overtime from carbon buildup inside em then when i get up in higher elevations it has problems and will not work.

[@BottomleyAdventures]

Our home heat pump can still run effectively at 15 degrees F or above, though I know some can't go that low. Obviously, it's less efficient at that temperature than higher temperatures, but it is still more efficient than resistive electric heat.

[@robinrapport8728]

good information. In my fifth wheel in the front bay for the lithium batteries, I use a small radiant oil heater, which does a really good job and then I also have a larger, radiant oil heater that I use when I am plugged in at campgrounds, the Mr. buddy heater is great for taking the chill off in the morning in the living room. I was thinking about using a diesel heater to heat just the underbelly of the RV to warm it up more

[@webe1959]

Good video. Didn't hear this mentioned in the video nor did I see in the comments, I didn't read them all..... Anyway heat pump we had was a couple of years ago and those made today may work better now but ours did not work well below 40 degrees. Also, heat pump does not provide heated air in the belly areas so water pipes and tanks may freeze. Just be aware of this issue. Also, there are electric elements that can be installed in the some A/C units. Not all A/C units have this feature. Again, these do not heat the under belly areas but do provide heat at any outside temperature.

[@marianneburgher4177]

The best alternative source we found for our class c is an oil radiator. No flame great heat !

[@bobbliss9607]

We were taking a break and was surfing KZbin and came across you RV session. Nicely done, good video and very informatative. We went to your web site and found more.

[@al1here]

Try this electric heater, Newair 1500 watt ceramic compact. Keeps my trailer nice and warm. I don't use propane too much. Ebay for $95.00.

[@GirdHerd]

Jared, A very informative video. Regarding the diesel air heater, most of the time your heater will be running on Low or Medium heat mode. Turn the heater to High and let it run for a couple of minutes before turning it off to help prevent soot build up in the chamber. Also, a few of the diesel air heaters on the market have an automatic elevation adjustment feature so you don't have to manually adjust the thermostat.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thanks for tip on that extreme RV compartment heater unit. Have not seen that one before.

[@davidgates1122]

My RV furnace is also 28,000 BTU, but it is over 95 percent efficient. I upgraded my 12 volt system to be able to use it off grid.

[@martysk8r]

11:22 Good info. Just to emphasize and a bit simplified: All fuels, no matter how clean burning, combine carbon (C) with oxygen (O) and put out carbon-monoxide (CO) which can suffocate you - Be sure to leave a window or vent open with the inside, non-vented heaters.

[@mondavou9408]

Jared, you did a great job on this one. I have used all the same stuff, come up with similar numbers and have similar opinions. Now when people ask me, I can just send them this video. :-)

[@TomandLoriRVLife]

What an awesome video! By far the most comprehensive one out there that's really easy to understand!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks!

[@Clint3029]

Outstanding intro about heat sources!

[@JohnSmith-qj7hd]

What about the Dickie fireplace. Direct vent, propane, and can run without electricity and best of all. It’s quite.

[@darrylm3627]

😀👍Good Stuff, Great Tips

[@charlieodom9107]

You missed the best heater of all, and it is the latest addition to the RV industry. The Mini Split Heat Pump. They are the most efficient, by far, and many can work in really cold temps. I know you only have certain ones in your RV, but I would have liked to see the Mini Split at least mentioned, since van conversions and Cargo Conversions are becoming extremely popular, and the mini split is the go-to heat source for many of these builds.

[@jeffstangl1471]

Well done, shared with my full time RV brother.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Awesome thank you!

[@timwoody3835]

One type you failed to mention is the oil filled heater, which looks like an old style radiator. Most are lower cost, usually $30-$40 and have 3 levels of wattage 600, 9-0 and 1500. They give offs gentle heat and have a thermostat of sorts - a knob to turn it up or down but with no numbers to tell the temperature you are setting it to. It can get hot to the touch, but not enough to burn the skin nor start a fire. I would feel confident leaving this heater in my RV when I wasn’t there.

[@Premier-Media-Group]

We love ours, and have spent a few below zero winters in the Poconos, Ohio, etc. Only problem is it doesn't reach the basement.

[@capodad2u]

So how do you power that off grid ?

[@timwoody3835]

@@capodad2u You need a source of electricity for sure. Generator or a lithium battery solar system or a large rechargeable power station. In any case, it’s probably not the best solution for off grid, but it’s probably the safest.

[@capodad2u]

@@timwoody3835 I agree that they seem safest and creates a nice ambient heat, however when it comes to power consumption 500w or 1500w is gonna burn thru your batteries very quick. In a search for efficient heaters we tried several electric space heaters from 200w to 500w and none will efficiently heat our small 24ft rig and don't last long we have solar and lithium batteries and 1500w solar generator still not enough. The diesel heater besides being the cheapest and most efficient puts out the most heat far better and safer than our built in propane furnace or electric heat pump, its also the quietest. As to safety it's mounted outside the intake air is separate from the combustion chamber intake air so there's no chance of breathing excess carbon monoxide. There's always some risk when using any fuel source to create heat. What do you think is heating up the oil in a radiator? What do you use to heat your home? So you have to weigh up all the factors and choose what's best for your situation, for off grid I think diesel is the best choice for real heat it's almost impossible to create enough energy from solar alone to run electric heaters for any length of time.

[@brentmcmahon8188]

Dehumidifiers are the best for propane moisture.

[@garryhammond3117]

Thanks Jared - This was a very comprehensive list. Merry Christmas to you and your family! - Cheers!

[@butplug-s1k]

I have a 2006 23' BT Cruiser that has all the bells and whistles for that model slide out V8-Turbo Diesel and most everything works. The heater works great don't use it most of the time though. I'm a lone traveler these days so I carry a 20Lb tank and use the big Mr. Buddy And a Dewalt 20 volt batter/120ac construction fan to move the heat. The reason I do that is cause the only bad thing about the RV is it has a 15 Lb. on board propane tank that can't be removed. And I don't want to use it up in case I have to run the Onan Gen. and to heat water or what ever else oh yeah to use the house heater I have to have 120 ac It's gas but the blower is 120 ac And I leave the window by my bed wide open.

[@ChloeBensonBeautyBoxes]

I have had good luck with oil heaters.

[@davidpatrick1813]

Also, some diesel heaters have altitude compensation

[@rogergraves242]

When it ticks like it’s Re-Primeing to warm U up.

[@larrymartin5298]

I stoped upswing the furnace and the ACs on top of the fifth wheel I got a ductless AC and heater, no matter how cold it gets. It puts out 86° heat at all times and I barely use much electricity.

[@larkendelvie]

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

[@b.s.g.1586]

I use a Kerosene heater, it puts out lots of heat, kerosene/diesel is relatively cheap per hour, I set a small fan above it (not on it) to circulate the air & it keeps my RV toasty warm. I don't rin it while I'm sleeping but it says it can be used at night, soooo ......... ? As with propane I keep a window cracked open to supply fresh air & let CO out

[@gotthumbs2235]

If you use Off-road Diesel, it might be a better savings option, if you don't want to tap into your vehicles diesel fuel tank. Just a suggestion.

[@jamescorcoran4684]

Thank you for putting out a informative video.

[@williamfry6087]

I have real issues (safety) with burning fuel inside the RV. Outstanding presentation, thanks.

[@fabiangomez357]

If the built in RV furnace doesn't create humidity from burning propane, where could the extra humidity be coming from when I turn it on when it's cold out. When I turn it on I get condensation around my windows which are covered with reflective and tape sealed along the edges. We know there is an increase because the damprid containers fill up fast when using furnace vs not filling up when off.

[@DennisWintjes2]

Thanks, Like 7.5K+

[@bachello6218]

multi fuel stove for me with diesel heater as back up 👍

[@MistiMoan]

What about a grizzly cubic mini, Dickinson or Kimberly Wood stoves?

[@KirstenN-e4b]

I was hoping you would cover some heaters without a fan. The heaters you featured all seem to rely on a fan to heat the air and direct it into the RV. Is tehre no equivalen to a baseboard heater out there? I just can't stand the noise of the fan.

[@coachk7674]

Diesel Heater...Press both arrows at the same time to switch from C to F

[@lorrainelanning6016]

We're good when actually camping, but how do you keep the underbelly warm while driving without running the furnace?

[@robertburgess6100]

Great video! More bad more people don't pay attention to that stuff.

[@RamblinRoadies]

Have you ever heard of Cheap Heat? I think it converts your propane furnace to electric. I don't know much about it.

[@randym5975]

I have cheap Heat and love it. It uses the house heater to move the heated air without using propane. It uses an electric element to heat. It kept the RV warm when it was 10 outside. All you hear is the fan no burning of the propane.

[@RamblinRoadies]

@@randym5975 is it a DIY install? For the mechanically inclined.

[@randym5975]

@@RamblinRoadies I had my dealer do it but there are videos about it, I just didn't want to take a chance.

[@mychannelsirr]

can you leave xtreme heater running outside, inside the skirting of the travel trailer? or does it have to be in a compartment

[@JakeNeal-pe2pd]

12:06 😮

[@donnajodaniel4249]

What about”cheap heat” what is your take on it?

[@johndoe1909]

perhaps rv heatpumps are in efficient. i have house here in scandinavia and heat with a heatpump, all the way down to 0f. then again its a swedish heatpump...

[@timaz1066]

Another nice job Jared thank you and you and your family have a Merry Christmas. Just what do you use your project trailer for?

[@carmas54]

What about the truma combi

[@darrenlewis7001]

Would you use the diesel heater when you're not there?

[@marklaske2911]

What about the stock furnace?

[@RVAmerica]

Great information. Out of curiosity, would you run your electric fireplace overnight? We have done it several times and we're just wondering. Lynn and Danny

[@LoveShackBBQ]

So, tell me this. When you’re talking about a few of these heat sources and the efficiency, you’re considering your solar/battery usage? Maybe I missed that. Also, there are some incredibly efficient and safe alternatives to Diesel Heaters in the Marine industry. Check out the YT channel Sail Life. He installed one on his first Sail boat ‘Oblix’ several years ago. Very interesting topic. Merry Christmas to your family from The Love Sack BBQ!

[@uhjyuff2095]

Why am I looking at a graph of only 9 hours running the furnace? The sun goes down at 5 pm! I guess I could just add 50 percent to your numbers!

[@loveu2222]

Your heating system good if it has 4-8 air outlet....nothing better than Truma....

[@Joe-xe1ou]

Mini split????

[@michellegill-scott1437]

I have a cat living in the RV with me so I have the little window beside the litter box area open one for smell but to also help refresh the air all the time... I have been using a mix between my built in heating and electric heating....

[@rogergraves242]

It Will burn U out of the RV whatch out It’s Good. Fuel Efficient.

[@Erical65]

We love our electric fireplace! It’s getting a lot of use in AZ this year. Brrr

[@donnaevans7]

Would it do pretty good for a 32 foot or would be need to supplement?

[@tumbleweed4185]

If I had a diesel heater I would spill fuel all over the place and I would walk around smelling like an oil refinery. Probably not a good plan for me. I'll stick with propane.

[@Stepdaddy8969]

👍🏽

[@zanesutherland406]

I’ve been full time in my camper since sept 2019, and my main source of heat is an electric radiator heater. It’s really safe. I have it on a baking sheet on top of my rug. It’s on low, medium, or high all winter with no issues. I have 2 small 250w heaters that I occasionally use for a boost of heat, as well as my Cubic Mini Woodstove if it’s super cold. That was essential and a lifesaver during the -28°F weather not including wind chill. I don’t use my onboard water though because that does freeze. I think I was able to use my water lines till November, and then I was using my toilet for urine and flushing it manually till it froze in December. Hoping this will be my last winter in the camper. It’s hard if there isn’t normal utilities in the winter, but grateful for what my little home has provided me

[@Alyssasun353]

How do you Power without generator

[@deniceloes1552]

I used one in camper, caught outlet on fire😢

[@davidpatrick1813]

Nice job with all these thanks.

[@sunseeker8457]

Nice video! With the diesel heater. If you leave it on the elevation mode and put the Hz to a low setting like 1.3 Hz the fuel will least longer also (and the ticking sound is slower too) it's nice that they come with a remote control also. These are great has you can run them while you are sleeping in the night. What I like the most is that you can add extension hoses to this and connect extra vents around the RV / camper including the garage area and where your pipes, water and batters are, keeping them all warm and freeze free.

[@SquirrelDarling1]

As a truck driver and can attest that the diesel heaters work very well. I’ve left mine on in the truck when I’ve went home for the day to keep sleeper warm and to keep toilet and water on truck from freezing.

[@Obliticus]

I've used Mr Buddy inside my house, with all my safety detectors, for 4 months at a time, and never a single issue that ever set off any safety devices. The one caveat with Mr Buddy is if you use a larger tank with a hose, you gotta have a filter. Don't trust Mr Buddy's "filter free" hoses... I've already had to send those back under warranty. Just use a filter and save yourself a headache.

[@joanneleiser1044]

Mini split for the win! I bought 1988 class c. Furnace was shot and estimate to repair $1600. Removed a/c off roof, it was so loud we couldnt hold concersation, sold it for $300 and bought a mini split $750, used amazon prime no shipping charge, installed and certied for $150. $900 - 300 FROM A/C $600. Best choice ever! I snowbird workcamp. A/C and heat both totally quiet inside, work really well and also very quiet outside. 26' of comfort from Pioneer 9000, no I dont work for the company Just happy with the product. Have a soft start to get before i can run on my solar system and no worries where ever I park as a full timer. :)

[@okinawadonkichi]

I use a Dyson Purifier Hot+Cool fan and it works really well, very even heat with a thermostat. The only issue is cost of the unit, which has more than doubled since I bought it a few years ago. We only use the furnace as secondary heat if the outside temp goes below 28 degrees, to keep the belly from freezing.

[@canadianguy2612]

I live in a poorly insulated camper in Canadian winter and I get by with a Diesel heater - but the propane buddy is absolutely necessary because in frigid temperatures The Diesel heater always quits for one reason or another... also when I can’t seem to keep my feet warm I boil water in my drinking cannister and keep it at my feet and it works really well to stay warm and comfortable when you just can’t get that comfort level.. Great video thank you

[@58Tommy]

One thought is keep the rv just warm enough so nothing freezes, and use sn electric blanket at night.

[@austinado16]

Huge fan of the Olympian Wave heaters. We use a wave 6, and it runs all night, silently.

[@chachi5975]

Sounds like a nice unit, I wish he had actually reviewed it.

[@GirdHerd]

We're just recreational campers. We use the smaller Mr Buddy (with one heating element ) for chilly mornings and late evenings only. We never run it while sleeping or away from the trailer. A one pound cylinder lasts about 4 hours on High. I bought a dozen of the Flame King refillable cylinders before Covid when they were about $11 per cylinder and refill them myself.

[@SailProMarina]

I'm so happy to see a MaxSpeedingRods unit being used !! Do you know those units are far better than the other Chinese branded models ? If you look carefully at the combustion unit itself , it is German made and that unit is almost the same quality as a $1000 Espar type unit. I have 2 of them and they work GREAT !! I only suggest upgrading the supplied Fuel hose and clamps and to use an upgraded muffler that has the S baffle chamber to keep it quiet and efficient ! Thanks !

[@deltabravo1257]

In several of my recent RVs that I've owned, I install a new circuit breaker and wire run to a dedicated outlet specifically to run my electric space heater when on shore power.

[@P_RO_]

Though getting these wet is unlikely, always use a GFCI breaker or outlet for these. Almost perfect for shore power being clean, cheap dry heat but even those with built-in thermostats tend to run too hot or too cold. You can run a 1500W unit safely on a built-in 15A circuit but it should be the only thing on that circuit as that reaches the 80% limit of capacity for full-time power draw circuits are rated for.

[@joygypsiestv9883]

We gotta say, Jared, your channel is one of our favorite RV channels. Thanks for always delivering great information and tips!

[@michaelgalaxy]

Why are residential mini splits not included here? They are a totally viable option and there are many ways to get them installed.

[@jimbeaver27]

well how you heat when you are plugged into shore power is a whole lot different than when boondocking. For boondocking you can't beat a diesel heater, save the propane for cooking.

[@AndreAngelantoni]

== Webasto 2000STC Review (Cab Heater) == Great review. I have a Webasto in my gasoline (not diesel; Webasto makes diesel and gasoline versions) 23ft class C and it's excellent. Here's why. 1. It maintains the set temperature by lowering the fan speed and emitting only the amount of heat required to maintain the temperature once the desired temperature is reached. Unlike the propane furnace, which allows the temperature to vary by +/- 5°F (for a total of 10°F range between full blast and off), the temperature stays the same throughout the night. 2. It's MUCH quieter than the propane furnace. Between the atrocious sound of the propane heater in the winter and the atrocious sound of the built-in a/c unit in the summer, I wanted to pull my hair out. Trying to sleep with that noise was challenging for me. 3. It has a timer. (There is a mod available online to get the software to offer multiple timers, too.) 4. It takes its fuel from my main 55-gallon tank (regular gas, not diesel in my case). I never worry about running out of fuel. 5. It sips gas: just 0.12L - 0.24L per hour. On average a heater needs 100ml of fuel per hour, per kW. I use perhaps a 0.8 of a gallon a night on average. 6. It doesn't use my very limited propane, which reserves the propane for the fridge, cooking and hot water. A few things to consider: 1. It will accumulate soot even lower than 8000ft; after staying for just a few weeks at 2000ft and opening the unit, there was appreciable accumulated soot. Be aware that soot cleaning (or at least checking) is recommended once per season, at least. 2. I can't hear the clicking with my unit but I would explore getting a unit with a wider diameter output nozzle next time. It still has to push a lot of air through a small diameter hole and it is louder than I would like. Not unbearable like the propane furnace but still noticeable. 3. 95% of the time the unit is more than sufficient for my uninsulated 23ft rig. However, it runs at full speed and nonstop when it dips below freezing. This is the right size for my unit but it's definitely at the limit for cold winter camping and an uninsulated 23ft rig. 4. It's not the cheapest brand but I do a lot of boondocking so reliability and the additional features are important to me.

[@1UofACat12]

I own the Webasto EVO 40 diesel & it's awesome, works above 9,000' & haven't had the soot issues as long as its run for over 30 min. The cheap Chinese junk is just that... junk that may work, but they have serious issues... Mine is in a 29' travel trailer.

[@anthonyb2334]

Jared, another good and informative video. For me, as someone who has spend decades RV’ing, I’ve tried most of the items you show. They all have good applications, but simplicity is best for me. AND SAFETY!! I don’t full time ( about 50% time RV’er) and I don’t spend much time below 35 degrees but have camped at 10-16 degrees a number of times. I like it WARMER! I use the coach (Motorhome) furnace and boost the front or bathroom area with a small electric space heater as needed. I wish I had the heat strip on my AC units. I had it on my previous two Motorhomes and they made a difference in combination with, or by themselves. Thank you for your review

[@yellowglider]

Reagan ding the ceramic heater: I have a Lasko just a little bit bigger than the one you showed, around $40 at Costco. It has also a remote so you can adjust the temperature from the bed if necessary (…happening often in the mornings). It does go into a very low setting if it doesn’t need a big temperature gain, you literally can’t hear it, I have been letting it on all night long when the temperatures are not going to be lower than 30F, in which case I need to use the propane heater to keep the tanks from freezing. Highly recommended.

[@mattbfarmer]

Interested in hearing how you installed the "mid" roof top A/C unit!!!!!!!

[@ThePackDad]

We prefer the radiant (radiator type) space heaters (1500w) inside at about $60. We rarely need to use the propane when we have electric for the space heater. Turn it on early to warm things up. I also have 2" foam inserts I cut for ceiling vents and Reflectex for the larger windows. I've also cranked my radiant heater as hight as I use it, then laid it on its side on a piece of carpet and some balsa wood to test. No damage. That's my experience and damage may still occur. Be safe.

[@reddragonrvlife8469]

The downside of using heaters other than the furnace in sub zero temps is that the furnace thermostat will see that the RV is warm enough and not kick in, this can be a problem if it also heats your pipes underneath to stop them freezing, unless you also install a heater down there as shown in the video.

[@Cacheola]

#1 Kimberly woodstove, #2 oil heater - super efficient and nice radiant quiet heat. Heed the manufacturers recommendations with heatpumps operating at sub 0. If they don't have a defrost cycle, you can freeze em up and potentially cause damage.

[@joeblow3939]

I've gotten a thermal outlet off Amazon. Just plug it in the was, set the desired temperature then plug in your heater. It's never been used. Drop me a address I can send it to (for free) and I will send it rite out to you. I have a spare bedroom full of new tools and am looking to move overseas around March. Like I say, if you want it It's yours.

[@markreynolds9570]

Change out that fireplace outlet first.