Make a $100 Amazon Diesel Heater Even Better With This Simple Trick

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

What should we review next? VEVOR 5KW geni.us/WdBvLqh Newer model that doesn't tick geni.us/Tavz

[@raudpats0]

The difference is mostly in fuelpump. 22ml for 5kw and 25/28 ml for 8/10kw units. There is some s all difference in airpump revolutions. Quiet fuelpump i to not gnow yet, havent installed so far. There is shockload absorbers for fuel to Quiet the pumps down and rubber insulationsn for pump. Vevor has used oil burners.

[@bain19]

Honestly, ive bought the plasma and welders from your amazon reviews. I guess im buying this now too. How about you stop, my wallet is begging you :D

[@ВасилийВасильев-э9н]

8 kW can be larger and heavier then 5 kW. If it's same size and weight it's fake.

[@FFLFFS]

Amazon lineboring machines review👍 (Also would be interesting to see the temperature of the D heater exhaust coming out of the C can )

[@raudpats0]

@@ВасилийВасильев-э9н 10 kw is bigger. Smaller ones use same burningchamber, info aquired from vevor homepage. Needs some digging to get the data .

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I have a list of corrections that I think are important to share. I have accumulated hundreds, if not thousands of hours of testing on these heaters, and have over 30 videos showing how bad of an idea trying to burn waste oil is. The 5 and 8kw are almost always the same. Some cycle the pump a little faster and run rich in the highest setting. They don’t like being charged? Meant to be used when not moving? Please explain as this doesn't make sense. Charging while running is fine. Using these heaters while in motion is fine, as long as your set up correctly. The glow plug is for starting only. Fuel doesn’t hit it, it enters an area near it and flashes off on a mesh. This are is for flame initiation and the actual combustion happens in the chamber at a separate "wick" mesh material. (at the end of the fuel inlet) I don’t understand that the confusion is about heat energy. Things that lose heat slowly, can’t heat space quickly… you have x amount of heat and it’s either in the radiator, or in your air space. If you have a material like cast iron, that holds heat for a long time… this is NOT good … unless your goal is to have a hot radiator. I prefer a warm room. An aluminum radiator (or copper) makes way more sense. I grew up with a wood stove and furnace so I realize cast iron was used a lot... not because it heats a space after your fire goes out. The glow plug only needs to be finger tight. It doesn’t hold anything in, other than itself, and it can’t come out. The glow plug “screen” is basically a wick, not a filter. It doesn’t affect running operation at all, only start up. If it gets carbon, it I’ll effect start up only. Fuel is not filtered through this. This is not a diesel engine… it is a glorified candle, that has fuel delivered to the wick on demand. Viscosity of the fuel has almost no effect on these heaters as they use a dosing pump. Other than extreme conditions, one pulse of the pump will deliver .022ml of fluid. If the fuel is so thick the punk can’t cycle, the heater will shut off. The byproducts of blow by are combustible. Oil is made of carbon, so is diesel, and gasoline. The reason used oil doesn’t burn well isn’t because it is used, it’s because it’s oil and isn’t as refined as diesel or kerosene. It’s not the additives… diesel is refined oil. Burning oil leaves behind a what you would have refined out of diesel (for example). Mixing fuels does NOT cause the less volatile fuel to burn. Fuel doesn’t burn. The gasses that flash off burn. If you mix gasoline and diesel, in a heater, the gas will flash off instantly and you will be left with oil… just like in a distilling process. If they are injected in a mist, like in a diesel engine, then perhaps the heat of the gas burning will cause the oil to burn, but these heaters drool fuel onto a wick, they don't inject it. I have hundreds / thousands of hours on a pump that has run pure gas, alcohol, waste oil and even some diesel…. These pumps don’t wear out / fail due to lubrication. They make these units that burn gasoline and use the same pump. Pumps that fail, likely do so because of defects or moisture, causing corrosion. It's not the glow that plug screen that gets clogged with waste oil. It’s the burn chamber mesh. It’s not replaceable on most chambers, and is almost impossible to clean. Used or new veg oil can be used, but more important than filtering, is mixing at least 50/50 with diesel or kerosene. 60 diesel 40 veg oil to be “safe”. The issue is glycerin in the oil. If you remove the glycerin, you have biodiesel. I have personally done it at 60/40 and have an acquaintance who has been burning 50/50 (with a system with two pumps that mixes it) for a few months now, with no issues. The last few weeks running 24/7. 200% more efficient 🤔😤 … if you lost half of your heat out of the exhaust (you’re not) and recovered 100% of your loss… that would be 100% more efficient… no ? Such nonsense. The most you stand to gain by collecting ALL of the exhaust heat is about 1kw. The actual output of these haters is around 4.5 or 5kw (though they claim 8) It's a great idea to scavenge that heat... but I'm not sure wher the 200% number comes from. They are great heaters. They all have ticking pumps. You can easily quiet them or buy quite replacements. Detach the pump from the metal casing, as it amplifies the noise. Hang the pump form an elastic or zip tie... if the heater is stationary, this will work fine. Do NOT run them waste oil or waste oil mix in these …I have tried 80% diesel and gas with only 20% oil, and they still clog up. I have a 30 part video series on how bad of an idea this is. Hearing the oil, mixing it with diesel or gas does not help… heavy oil has ash. That ash will clog the burn chamber.

[@billparker8954]

You can take everything @loweredexpectations4927 says to the bank. Glad to see you're back after a long summer!

[@ferratilis]

Thanks for the info.

[@thieltech1]

You definitely have a good understanding of fuel and burning mixtures. Thank you ! The dude in this video only pretends or thinks he understands how they work. I'm glad to see you cleared up the miss information. Nothing more annoying then people explaining things they don't understand.

[@tomasviane3844]

Nice to see you here 👋😊

[@M.TTT.]

thank you for the info, I'll have to read it all later, but can you run used motor oil cut with kerosene/diesel?

[@sw5334]

Had one for years now. I converted it to run off Milwaukee 18v batteries and I use it as a job site heater when I’m working. Works awesome.

[@dusty1498]

What size of batteries and what is your run time? Mind sharing how you converted it!

[@FFLFFS]

@dusty1498 I imagine a small potentiometer would regulate 18v to 12 V Basicly why Vevor says not to put a battery charger on b/c that would be 14.5 volts. Edit: a regulator is a better choice. (Potentiometer make more waste heat )

[@dusty1498]

@@FFLFFS Thanks I know guys use 18v drill batteries on 12v kids electric jeeps etc maybe some of those videos will translate over to use with a heater👍

[@sw5334]

@@dusty1498 I run mostly 12.0 amp batteries. At full throttle they last 3-4 hours, turned down I can get 8 hours. Depends how hot and size of room your trying to maintain. I build glass solariums so I use it while working and it does a great job. Making the conversion is a bit harder than just bolting a battery on. I’ve had a lot of people ask how I did it and I would love to do a video on it but I’ve never made a video for KZbin. I think it would be a great second video for Rich to do about the heaters. If he sees this and contacts me I could explain and show photos on what to do.

[@sw5334]

@@dusty1498 A not so quick explanation, I use a 24->12v regulator to cut the voltage down. That’s the easy part. If you’re not familiar how these diesel heaters work here’s a quick explain. When turned on, they do a self check, then heat the glo plug, then inject fuel, it burns, glo plug turns off and the unit keeps running by the little filter looking element igniting the fuel on its own. Very low current draw when it’s running as it’s only turning a fan. When you turn it off, the fuel stops, fan lowers speed, glo plug turns back on and burns off any residual fuel, then it cools off, then it shuts down. This is important to know for the batteries to work. Cause the batteries don’t turn themselves off, if you don’t shut down at the correct time you can damage your batteries by drawing them too low, or not having enough energy in the battery left to do a proper shutdown sequence. Thus sludging up the heater. So what I do is install an electronic unit that watches the battery voltage, when it gets down to a preset voltage it turns the fuel pump off, heater sees a fault code, then the heater goes through the shutdown sequence and protects the battery and heater. It’s easier to set up than this sounds.

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

Those are 100% Eberspaecher knockoffs. The good thing is when something goes wrong, any big rig dealership should be able to get you spare parts. I've rebuilt countless numbers of those things. The first thing to usually go is the gasket around the burn chamber. It cracks and starts pulling in air and causes it to not light off or stay running. Keep a spare glow pin and burn chamber gaskets and you should be able to get it up and running quickly.

[@benjurqunov]

I used to sell Espar. These knockoffs are not the quality of Espar, but at 1/10 the pricetag... Well worth it. I have a few of these China things. In my shed and both campers. Also made a portable complete kit with flex duct, battery cable, etc. I'll leave it sit outside. The air is ducted into a wall tent or whatever.

[@markeh1971]

Hi, I’ve noticed eBay has them as a kit. Think I’ll be getting one. Take care M.

[@Sugarkryptonite]

At the price, I just buy 2 and have the second for parts, instead of going to a big rig dealership and having to order parts and pay their silly prices. Have had 1 installed in my van for years now with no issues. As long as installed properly they do well.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

The tiny burner screen tends to carbon up over time, along with the small intake port there.

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

@wallacegrommet9343 Yup. I forgot about that thing.

[@mantvydas8810]

My dad was a trucker for 43 years. He has lots of stories of these heaters, and always mentioned that the casings were plastics. And they weren't aftermarket installs, factory options in volvos, Mercedes, man, daf. Mentioned that some were more problematic than others. One time he was stuck in -25 celcius weather and the heater stopped running, would just cycle and puff smoke but not actually start. He ended up taking it apart and 2 of the meshes inside were so clogged nothing would clean them. He noticed there were multiple layers and ended up taking 2 or 3 out till clean ones showed up. When he tried to start it, it didn't and when he was about it to give up it finally started. Said it was putting out such hot air that he couldn't hold a hand near it and the plastic housing started melting and deforming. He ended up being the only one wearing a t shirt in his truck, everyone was surprised his vbasto put out such heat. The heater lasted another 3 years before my father's coworker crashed the truck and it was written off.

[@lavasiouxwindwater9789]

Badass!

[@techwolflupindo]

Thankfully, Espar current models have built in altitude compenstors that elemenated 90% of all the bad starts out there. Bad part is they only been out a couple years. So many trucks on the road still have the non-altitude version and all of them have issues starting in Denver, CO or anywhere above 1000 feet sea level.

[@GabrielKozsar]

@@techwolflupindo Wonder if blowing harder into the intake hose would help it to start in emergency. :D

[@mantvydas8810]

@@techwolflupindo Unfortunately wouldn't have helped cause the meshes were logged with a lot of soot build up.

[@blacksmokin]

I've been running these heaters for years. Just stick to fresh, clean, diesel fuel. I've played around with alternative fuel mixes, and the supply pumps hate it and fail prematurely. If you do decide to get cute with them, make sure you buy replacement pumps. You also want to run these heaters up to 100% every once in a while to clean out the excessive carbon build-up.

[@oby-1607]

Have a remote fuel tank outside witha line feeding inside. Using a portable marine fuel tank, your capacity goes way up and you can fill it while it is still running. And keep it outside so if you spill it you aren't smelling diesel the whole winter.

[@Cj032188]

haha this is what I do.. I have a small diesel fuel pump with a line drilled into the cap of the tank. I run the line right into my gas container to fill.

[@DB-yj3qc]

That is how I intend to install the one in my travel trailer, and most likely in my cabin eventually. Definitely only going to diesel fuel or at worst kerosene, off-road diesel is ready and available living in farming community.

[@MHLivestreams]

The pump is a pulse type, so use the original hard type of fuel pipe to avoid losses. Just a note in case anyone may develop issues.

[@markparr7224]

I made mine out of an old propane tank and painted it yellow. I only need one propane tank for my cargo trailer conversion, so it clamps down right next to it. All I really had to do was weld on a filler neck off a junk car, and put a fuel level sight tube and a pick up at the bottom.

[@Cj032188]

@@markparr7224 good idea!

[@shuttlepilot_]

Best upgrade for reliability I’ve made with mine was replace the blower bearings with SKF bearings. I’m only here for the music.

[@MrSenorhappy]

Specs on those bearings please?

[@NightshiftCustom]

Good upgrade for sure! I get about 6000+hrs on a set of the stock bearings and i never have had to clean any of my heaters as there always clean when I check them (burning diesel)

[@thedavesofourlives1]

what size replacement bearing is it?

[@shuttlepilot_]

On my heater bearing size is 625- 2Z id 5mm, od 16mm, width 5mm. It’s a common size in RC cars wheel bearings but most of those are the same Chinesium. NOTE - the fans and motor rotor are a balanced assembly. Just mark everything with a pen so you can reassemble close to the same orientation.

[@Rustyhinged]

@@shuttlepilot_Thank you!

[@outintheboondocks1466]

I've had one for a couple of years now. My house is completely off grid, micro hydro powered and about 1800 sq ft, and it keeps it warm in the spring and fall, but not warm enough when the temps outside are below freezing. (yeah, shouldn't have cheaped out on insulation) I have a 7 gallon external fuel tank, so on the lowest setting I can keep the house frost free for a week. I routed my exhaust into my wood stove and the natural updraft helps pull the air through the unit, at least I think it does...lol As for the recommendation of not using a battery charger, I use a maintainer, some call it a Porsche charger, and it keeps my battery up to snuff. As for the clicking noise, you get used to it! Never have run anything but dyed diesel and after probably 1000 hours of use, it's been trouble free. Great little unit and well worth the cost. Thanks for the review, and let's hear more about the Edison conversion!

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and how long does it run?

[@outintheboondocks1466]

@@Dark_Knight_USA The battery is from my excavator, 1000 CCA. Not a deep cycle but it works. As for how long it runs? Once the voltage goes below 10.5 the heater cuts out due to low voltage. So, it depends on the temp setting. If it's set at 1, the lowest setting, it lasts for a few days but if it's set to 6, the highest setting, it's good for a day and a half ish.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

@outintheboondocks1466 Group 31? Probably about a 5 - 7A draw. Thx. I was thinking of that idea Bcuz I am in the woods. I have solar but not enough 2 recharge that much current, run the heater and the few little things. My battery draws a few amps fully charged. Without saying it is not very good. Even with solar I have 2 charge it once a week or 2. More than a 5A draw will kill it in a few hours. 4 now I use fire. Not the safest thing in my makeshift shelter but it suffices . Thx. Bsafe.

[@ramman871]

I used to sell Building products. I used to tell customers to NEVER skimp on insulation! Probably the only thing in a home that will virtually pay for itself over time!

[@RichardHarlos]

@outintheboondocks1466 Since you're off-grid, and not quite getting what you want during sub-freezing winter temps, check out paul wheaton's youtube channel for videos on rocket mass heaters. It's a relatively simple to construct, and efficient/inexpensive option that might serve you well. He's got a sub-3-minutes introduction to them called "What is a rocket mass heater?". A good one to watch after that is titled "a day in the life of a rocket mass heater" and it's also less then 3-minutes long. Sounds like you're living the dream -- best of luck to you!

[@clevelandmatheson983]

I own a few Vevor products and so far I have been very happy with my purchases.

[@Prosecute-fauci]

Me too. I have 5 or so of their items. From a large ultrasonic cleaner to a 10 in meat slicer. It all works great and the build quality is well beyond the price point.

[@tommy2facetv]

I've bought 2 ice machines. 1 is a 130lbs per day model, and the other is a 140lb per day. The 130lb has been running for over 2 yrs straight. Still works great. Each was under $400

[@markroe8229]

I've bought a lot and am satisfied with most, instructions be damned! But don't waste your money on the lawn sweeper...itsa colossal POS that sucks to assemble then falls apart as you use it since most of it is held together with pins instead of fasteners. And when you try and dump it, it dumps all the contents directly on top of the sweeper brush, so that when you pull forward, you drag most of it with you.

[@Vasilyevich05]

I bought a $500 vevor fridge/freezer. In 6 months, started throwing codes and randomly shutting off. Customer service says turn it off for one hour, then back on. What a joke. My brother in law bought one as well. Same story.

[@mediocreman2]

Yeah, they're in the top 15 of cheap Chinese garbage.

[@reluctantfarmer]

@5:08 you can spot the difference between units. That casting piece that holds the turbine is thicker on the 8kw unit. If you look just below the blue computer unit, that casted flange above the heat exchanger is noticeably thicker. Wish he wasn't lazy and took apart the 5kw to compare because now I'm curious.

[@joshuaanothereraseddad]

Came looking for this comment after stopping the vid only 5:36 into it. Like seriously, how could you not see the differences guy?

[@JoelTremblayCA]

Installed a 5KW unit in my off grid overland camper build, has been going strong over 4-years! best method in my opinion for some cheap "off grid" heat! I also use one for ice fishing.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and how long run?

[@MothKeeper]

You freeze fish with a heater?

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

@MothKeeper Surely U jest.

[@JoelTremblayCA]

@@MothKeeper ice fishing is the ultimate winter Canadian pass-time. Unfortunately we our season of being outside enjoying the warm sun with a beer in one hand, a fishing pole in the other only last about 5 months. We spent the rest doing that but in sub zero freezing temperatures, so yes we need to use a heater to keep our fish from freezing.

[@Yugemos]

I've just started winter in my setup with propane heat. So far it's okay.

[@101perspective]

I installed a version of one of these in my van. I live out of my van on road trips and this type of heater is a game changer during the winter. It can be freezing out and you are nice and toasty inside just like if you were at home. Only issue I have with it is the ticking sound. Though, I've managed to muffle it a little bit. Still better than freezing though:)

[@jhuck8166]

Last winter I tried diesel/oil mixes of various ratios and no matter the mix, the burn chamber would carbon up and I had to chip the stuff out of the burn chamber. The oil was filtered and I started and stopped on straight diesel. After the third time, I decided to stick with off-road diesel. For my exhaust, I mounted a 10’ section of 2” conduit 6” off the wall and used a 90 to exit the building. I used a box fan to blow on the pipe. Works great.

[@kevinhoversland]

Did you use multiple filters or centerfuge it? I've heard good things for the last one.

[@SLeslie]

These Chinese heaters are not tuned properly from factory. Probably that's why it's carboning up.

[@robertelmo7736]

@@SLeslie No, its carboning up because he's running used oil in it, right? Reading comprehension is a lost art lol.

[@VMac822]

I ran clean, filtered WMO on mine as well and had the same thing, carboned up badly. Even starting it on pure diesel until it was hot before switching over.

[@SLeslie]

@robertelmo7736 The development of carbon deposits means incomplete combustion. And that happens with staight diesel too if there is not enough oxygen for complete combustion.

[@TheMajictech]

The screen isn’t to filter anything, it gets hotter than hell negating the need for the glow plug to remain on. The plugs only used for a minute or so to get it started then the atomizer screen/ flame front takes it from there.

[@fm9572]

"Road Tax" for clear diesel is around $1 (American) here in North Carolina, USA. I live in a fairly rural area, with more than one source for Dyed Diesel. I've been considering one of these heaters for my Travel Trailer for some time now. All of the gas appliances and plumbing were removed before I purchased it, and I use a small electric space heater that's good to around 20*F, but kinda struggles in that range and below. Good information.

[@patrickbodine1300]

I live in a 26ft travel trailer and have used one of these heaters for at least 5 years without issue. I only burn off-road diesel. You MUST replace that green fuel hose before use because it will fail. Excellent heater for the money. Absolutely no regrets.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Did you source the Espar hard nylon tubing and rubber hose junction pieces to do the butted fuel line connections? Duplicate the Espar installation practices as much as possible for optimal performance

[@Luddite1]

That radiator is a great idea ! I have a mains adaptor on mine rather than running off a 12v battery

[@retakenroots]

With the radiator I would consider putting the exhaust at the other side, so that the heat will travel through the whole radiator, heating it up more.

[@BlackroseTanki]

Ive personally added an intercooler off of some older hyundai diesel car that was sitting at a wreckyard. The exhaust temp rises up to about 200°c, and with only passive cooling by blowing the exhaust gas through it, it cools it down to about 35-40°c. Beware of condensation.

[@AncientMechanic64]

I have played with these for a few years. My advice...Burn only clean fuel, they will fail fast on used oil no matter how clean you think it is. You can run them for many, many hours on clean diesel. Run them hot before shutdown to keep them burnt clean. I made a heat exchanger from a princess auto surplus tractor muffler. I run a three foot coil of the generic chinese diesel exhaust in three coils down hill into that, with the exhaust going down. I blow an 8 inch fan up over it. Drops exhaust to almost room temperature, and recover a surprising amount of heat. I run it all on an old car battery with an old power supply supply charging it. Fuse it at 20 amps at 12 volts. They only pull 2-3 amps once they finish with the glowplug so a battery can keep my garage warm all day in a power outage

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Burn a gallon of clear kerosene once a year to clean out any carbon on the burner screen. That extends the maintenance interval on screen replacement.

[@trevortrevortsr2]

A Russian blogger reckons some 11/4 kw can be salvaged from the exhaust - he passed it through an old cast radiator

[@deadcarz4926]

@@trevortrevortsr2 Like he did in the video?

[@deadcarz4926]

How much fuel do they use?

[@AncientMechanic64]

@@deadcarz4926 they vary a bit and are adjustable. Generally from about 1/4 litre per hour on a low setting to about 3/4 per hour litre on full blast

[@ChristopherSeaDawg]

You’ll be replacing those cheap green fuel lines soon. Mine didn’t even last a year. So I replaced the fuel pump also with one that is a quiet one. So much better! And I added a fuel filter too. It’s been working great and you can’t hear that ticking noise even when next to it.

[@jamminwrenches860]

I have the same heater without the case and it heats my whole house. I got it after losing power for a week during a winter storm. I use a deep cycle battery and the included fuel tank. One tank lasts me two days. Best 100 buck backup heat ever. Way better than my Mr Heater Buddy, less fuel used and it's much cheaper.

[@keithwittman4741]

It's also safer than no vent lil buddy heater.

[@felicitous48]

How did you vent the exhaust?

[@jamminwrenches860]

@felicitous48 the heater is placed next to a window unit air conditioner with the exhaust tube routed through the opening next to the air conditioner. I use foil tape to seal out bugs and outside air. The foil tape easily handles the hot exhaust tube passing through it. Make sure everything that touches the tube is metal because it gets hot and melted the plastic part that came with the air conditioner. Once melted away I was able to keep plastic clear from the hot tube.

[@Gearoid120]

Been running my Vevor 8kw heater in my 16x10 foot shed for two years now. Now one problem with it. work like a charm.

[@recumbentkoala]

Way back in 1977, when I was doing a second year university unit called "Computer Architecture" we learned about computer manufacturers building one computer design, but selling it as two different models. By inserting a D type flip flop in the clock circuit they could sell a half power, lower priced version, and the higher power, more expensive version. That way, they could get maximum economies of scale on the manufacturing line, and also sell expensive upgrades. For the upgrade an expensive technician would, with everyone else banned from the room, remove the D type flip flop. Similarly, there was supposedly an IBM line printer sold as two variants. The (secret) upgrade process was to remove a cover plate and swap two sprockets.

[@fliegenmann2562]

I run one in my Garage for 4 years now, no complaints. 1 clean and 1 glow plug. Definitely cheaper than propane for me!

[@AshGTE]

I use a mixture of 50/50 heating oil (kerosene) and used oil (filtered) in a converted yellow burner from a house. I run double truck oil filters to keep the nozzle from blocking up. I bought a selection of nozzles, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 1.25, 1.50, 1.75 and 2.0 gpm. The smallest nozzle was actually the best after setting the air ratio. It's stinking hot and costs very little to run.

[@joeg7755]

Hey Rich, to increase efficiency, you will need to extract the latent heat from the exhaust, and your cast iron radiator is not a good choice for this application. It is much easier and cheaper to build a condensing, heat rejector out of thin wall materials such as aluminum, copper, or stainless steel. Think of a old car radiator with a fan. You will have to watch out for the different acids that will form in the condensation, that it won’t end up being a problem eroding your secondary heat exchanger. This upgrade should extract approx. 25% more heat. Secondly, to burn used oil engine oil, you have to remove as much ash as possible. Ash is what kills these heaters. Two easy (and economical) ways are 1) cyclone separator and 2) disk stack centrifuge. These are both very effective in removing ash from used oil.

[@jameswalsh2433]

He used a cast iron radiator wisely. the mass is a heat sink that will absorb and disapate the heat for a long time. You add a fan, he allows it to radiate.

[@MrRatkilr]

He is scavenging heat from exhaust. The problem will be moisture and water building up in the radiator. I used a huge aluminum intercooler from a kenworth truck. With a small fan to blow air through it. Heated my garage a bunch more. Until the water built up in it and blocked exhaust flow. Need a drain and catch can to drain water out from time to time.

[@MrRatkilr]

They only recommend a certain max exhaust length. Might get carbon and crud build up if exhaust is too long. With short 2 meter exhaust pipe. It never has clogged on me. Some guys run longer and get buildup to point of blocking flow and shutting off heater.

[@joeg7755]

@@jameswalsh2433 Have to disagree, yes it will help but not in the way you think. The cast iron rad will be a very poor vehicle for any latent heat transfer. But if Rich was to replace it, say with an all metal car radiator and fan (car radiator has good heat rejection), in comparison, its extremely efficient on heat transfer, (being used as a condenser), he will then have something to talk about, like possibly up to 20 or possibly 25% more heat from the same amount of fuel consumed. Ok, may not reach 25% but you really have to ask yourself this, do you want efficiency and save some money on your heating cost OR have some huge chunk of iron that may smooth out the temperature fluctuations as the heater cycles? Up to you, its your money, spend it or save it! And if he wants to run used engine oil, best to remove the ash as I stated before.

[@joeg7755]

@@MrRatkilr I agree, you should only be using recommended fuel and OEM recommended installation practices but this logic is seldom followed on the internet. Let the fun begin.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

3:14 It is mounted without bolts to allow for the rapid and repeated expansion of the cast metal parts. It's not to make it cheaper ... it's a safety and durability feature!

[@MAXIMUSMINIMALIST]

Good catch

[@kpc5]

I live in a very small house, i fitted one of these heaters in my basement and it really does a good job of heating my house, i watched a video on here that was putting used engine oil in with the diesel, DO NOT PUT USED OIL INTO THE HEATER, it will kill it, i had to buy a new burn chamber because the old one was so clogged with solid CARBON deposit, i run my heater on Kero and add a small amount of 2T oil just to lubricate the Pump, Kero is not a Lubricant so that's why i do that, my heater has been used by me for the third year now and i love it.

[@tonylam-u1t]

You will find after they removed much of the sulphur to reduce pollution the last decade or so, diesel also lost much of its ability to lubricate. Some car diesels hated the new fuel. One manufacturer had to redesign their diesel pump 4 times.

[@danielmeade3599]

Let’s have a moment of silence for all the missing 10mm sockets out there.

[@FFLFFS]

Ahhh yes …Chinese government probably have cut back on the supply, leaving the poor ass fs to hand tighten. Their pay is probably docked “NO MORE FO YOU”

[@rtz549]

Some company sells a 100 pack.

[@CrimeVid]

Why ? they are not gone... They're just resting !

[@robertfitzsimmons2507]

😅😂

[@Fatamus]

I found all my 10mm sockets and wrenches 😞 Sadly the wife had raided my toolboxes and was pleased with herself for repurposing them into wind chimes a water fountain ⛲️. 🥺

[@Fun.Guy.Forager]

Love the comment on the 10mm socket (also 8mm). Harbor freight and gearwrench sells sets of 10 and 8 mm sockets with every style of socket.

[@Don008Ramon]

I’ve had a trickle charger on my car battery that’s hooked up to diesel heater for 2.5 years now. Works without any issues

[@christopherhines2718]

yeah,but eventualy your battery will die,and so i guess you have a fairly low amps charger to it like maybe 5a as a larger charger would kill a car battery quickly start up and shut down requires around 10 ampere so if your battery slowly dies and you dont know it you will be left not enough amps the heater if you are lucky will go error or it will self destruct they cannot be starved of power in start shutdown cycles. you can make a power supply easily and cheaply from an old pc power supply.

[@cabinfevrr]

I don't know what he means by they don't like charging. I'm off-grid. I have 600ah of 12.8v Lifepo4 batteries. When the sun is charging my bank is at 14.6v and receiving 80amps from the charge controller. My heater does not mind running during the day or the night, when there's no charging.

[@DelCorbin]

@@christopherhines2718 A 3 ampere trickle charger would supply about 36 watts per hour to the battery and over a 24 hour period totals to 864 watts to the battery(amps x volts = watts). to the battery daily. That would run the 10 ampere startup mode(10 amp x 12 volt) for 7.2 hours per day(864/120. If we say that run time amperes is 3 ampere then the 864 watts produced by the trickle charger per day would run the heater for 24 hours(a day). The start up load last only 15 or so seconds at the 10 ampere level then the glow plug turns off. I don't know the exact amperes during run time when the glow plug is off, which I'm curious to learn. At any rate the 10 ampere glow plug circuit only runs for a small percentage of a 24 hour period(let's use 1hour = 120 watts). 864 watts produced per day minus 120 watts startup power = 744 watts left over. 744 watts runs the heater drawing 36 watts for 20.67 hours. My conclusion is a 3 amp charger should work fine if the numbers I've used are close to reality. Batteries and chargers run closer to 13.2 volts, so there there is that.

[@SpazziJackazzi]

​@cabinfevrr It's just coz it says in the instructions not to but doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe shortens the life of the electronics

[@julianfranck6425]

If you use a AC/DC converter. When you have a power cut your heater will be damaged. Using a battery which acts as a store permanently connected to a smart charger (which does not damage the battery) gives you protection from supply failure.

[@keithwittman4741]

In 2021, I set up a diesel heater exhaust through a wall heat exchanger (copper tube aluminum fins) 4 foot section. It really does extract that lost exhaust heat! So good, I added an old computer fan (12v) to it. I've tryed used oil ,and concluded its not worth bothering, due to the extra work cleaning, and future repairs. Just get bulk home heating oil and enjoy the warm shop.

[@marcp4313]

Love from Germania I run my heater on Mountain mode. This reduces the pumprate and it runs fine. On switchlevel 1 it burns 135ml per hour. Without nearly 200ml. Sorry for bad Englisch ♥️

[@frank-lr]

Verrust die dann nicht schneller, wenn das Gemisch zu dünn ist? (schnell übersetzen kannst Du mit DeepL ;-) )

[@marcp4313]

@frank-lr verrusen tut sie wenn's zu fett ist. Diesel verbrennt mit Luftüberschuss besser. Wenn ein Dieselauto zu fett läuft hat er mehr Leistung aber Rust.

[@frank-lr]

@marcp4313 ah, cool, danke

[@DanCone-nq8up]

thank you ,about checking the bolts .they where very loose like almost hand tight. i enjoy watching your show ,have a good day!!

[@dmorris1130]

You should try it with a baseboard radiator, a long straight tube with fins.

[@Halifaxbomber2]

I just finished installing mine in the garage.(I bought it 2 yrs ago!) Getting some furnace oil for the first run today. I've seen the radiator used before as well as a large sand filled tank. Something like that might be in my future! Thanks for the video!

[@Lobsinus]

Strongly considering this for DIY camper conversion. It seems to be the most effective and efficient method of heating without having to have a high power electrical setup.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

We will use it in the Defenders to go camping in when they get home next week

[@aaronvlahovich7606]

I spent the extra money last fall and bought a Webasto gasoline fired Airtop Evo. Pulls fuel from my pickup truck tank. Was our full time heater in our 1172 Lance Camper all last winter and starting this winter again. So far zero issues and great heat output. Very low amp draw to. I would consider one of these as auxiliary unit though.

[@Lobsinus]

@aaronvlahovich7606 those seem to cost so significantly more than this, so much that i can't justify the cost. Also, I refuse to buy a product that the manufacturer will not give me a price for.

[@marcp4313]

Love from Germania Unscrew the pump from cover and put some foam around it. No more pumpnoise.

[@briananderson1781]

Have you tried centrifugal filters? I bought a used tractor truck which I converted to a straight flat dump farm truck, this truck came with a centrifugal filter added on when it was new and it does seem to work. I clean the centrifuge each time I change oil and it has a coating of carbon like deposits.

[@Bululdaya]

I have used these heaters for years. In 6 years of running it all winter on the boat, it was replaced only once. Fantastic little heaters for the price.

[@cowboy6591]

The 8k version MAY have a larger orface in the jet. The circuit may be programmed to inject more fuel per minute. The honest way to comment would be to measure the ounces er hour of fuel consumption and calculate the BTU's per once of fuel.

[@inothome]

Agreed, surprised he didn't compare orifice sizes. Physical outside dimensions isn't a fair indication of being identical.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Numerous KZbin channels have repeatedly busted the 8 kw claim by conducting very careful tests monitoring fuel consumption over time

[@Fun.Guy.Forager]

It's programmed differently and has a different glow plug. The connector color was different which says it is using a different glow plug.

[@2hotscottpro]

On an 8 the fin chamber is longer.

[@BuiltbyD]

There is no jet or jet orifice. The fuel just drips in, under no pressure. The fuel pump meters it, but doesn't pressurize it. The programming could theoretically apply a higher pulse frequency of the pump, providing a higher flow of fuel, but that would also require more volume of air via a bigger or faster fan. That said, it's been proven ad nauseum that the 8K heaters are just 5K.

[@travishurd7619]

I've had one of these for a few years now I love it, use it for camping to heat the tent, heat the back shop area. I run a used oil mix 10% used oil 90% diesel, filter the used oil through a 1 micron sock filter and that's good enough for me and eventually I'll have problems with it. In my back shop I ran about 40 ft of 3/4 metal conduit for my exhaust heat exchanger for the maximization

[@KA9DSL]

I have one of these in my full size Van. It was funny, last winter here in Chicago my Van was the only car one on the block with no snow on it. Love these heaters.

[@markeh1971]

Hi, they do what the label says, but they are being killed off by emission standards. Strange how when it’s a cold country they worry more about not freezing to death. Take care and keep warm M.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and runtime?

[@michaellarose6192]

Been a mechanic, all my life, just subscribed to you. Just in case you know something that I don't. You're doing a great job.

[@ignasanchezl]

If you're gonna burn engine oil just remember that this is not a catalytic device and you will be emitting multiple flue gasses including metals, possibly chlorinated compounds and many other gasses from incomplete combustion. Note that in generally this thing might not do complete combustion.

[@douglange6863]

Instead of an old radiator, I used an old section of hydronic baseboard finned copper pipe for the exhaust out of my workshop. I can keep my diesel heater in the middle of the shop and run the exhaust pipe under a work bench. For those unfamiliar with hydronic baseboard heating systems, finned copper pipe is usually 3/4 inch copper pipe covered with 2x2 inch thin aluminum fins that act as a heat sink.

[@ThePaulv12]

Can you get a model with a louder pump?

[@thejollywrencher]

No kidding. That thing would drive me nuttier than I already am 😣

[@Serious-Man]

Preferably one that sounds like a cow bell.

[@gregmoessner3104]

Yes, I would like one louder too!

[@aerodoc2]

I bought an ultra quiet pump from a guy in the U.K. They are 90% less noise, with adjustable fuel flow.

[@florpdorp7190]

😂🤣

[@rogerdickinson920]

I'm on the West Coast and had one installed in my 22" Grady White. It's installed in the fwd cabin venting out the stbd side below the gunwhale. It pumps out more than enough heat and needs to be turned down during fishing. Fuel consumption varies with temp setting but it may go thru 2 l per 3 hr trip maybe so it's well worth it. Yours has a noisy pump, Mine is on the other side of the bulkhead so is not noticeable. The cast iron radiator is a good ide to capture more heat. I think this would work to heat or help heat a house when a power outage. Maybe sit it on the fireplace, vented out, using a battery as a power source and vent it up the chimney.. Maybe a couple of USB fans to push the air around.

[@andythewelder6181]

If you put the exhause ot in the opposite end if the radiator it would definately work better

[@NordicDan]

I clicked on this planning to recommend the radiator addition and thinking I was all slick, but it seems you've already thought of that! 😂 Matter of fact your radiator is nearly identical to mine, only mine is slightly taller and has fewer sections. The issue I'm having at this point is where to source appropriate sized fittings and adapters so that I can clamp the exhaust lines to the radiator. Luckily it looks like I can reuse the two plugs that are already in place. One recommendation I would make for the sake of better heat scavenging from the radiator would be to keep the heater connected to the bottom like you have it, but relocate the radiator's outlet to the opposite end on top. This will force the exhaust gas to travel all the way through the radiator, and if you run it for more than a couple hours at a time, it'll get warm enough to prevent condensation and prolong the life of the radiator.

[@canuckgarage]

Just used your link for the 8KW unit and in Canadian money it's $312!! 5KW unit is $162. Yeouch. I'll wait till I'm back in Arizona this winter to buy one there. Even with the exchange it'll be half price.

[@canuckgarage]

To be fair I searched around on Amazon and I think they changed the links on Rich. I found the Vevor 8K unit for $142. You've really got to be carful on the Jungle Site. Same item same part number but so many different sellers. Amazon is basically what's called a fulfillment center. They handle the distribution for a lot of different sellers.

[@thedavesofourlives1]

direct from vevor's canadian site they sometimes also sell refurbs. Shipped from canada to canada.

[@canuckgarage]

@@thedavesofourlives1 Your probably correct but I was trying to use Rich's links. They have a program that allows him to get paid if people use them. I wanted to support Rich but like I posted I think they switched it on him. Or the Canadian version of Amazon did.

[@TechOne7671]

For another 12 dollars you could buy 2 5kw heaters and have better distribution of heat, heat load matching and redundancy. Use one to keep your hands warm while you’re fixing the other one😂.

[@Huntinggearguy]

Amazon Canada sells these for around $120 Canadian pesos.

[@dagabbagool2600]

These things are fantastic. I use it in my shop, deer blind, camping. Even heated my entire house for the winter when my furnace failed. Much cheaper to run than the propane heaters.

[@Misteryman321]

A cool trick a fellow truck oil burner guy taught me was wherever you store your used oil, pick out a big funnel and ratchet strap a bedsheet over it and then pour your unfiltered oil in. He also attached oil pan heaters to his tank to keep it warm

[@markeh1971]

Hi, good idea. A low wattage heater would keep it warm an ease it’s flow. Stick it on an Jerry can, ideal and strong. Take care M.

[@thedavesofourlives1]

bezos also sells similar filter bags with elastic tops for filtering herbs/essential oils, pricier than a bedsheet however!

[@MostlyPosative-nj5ex]

I’m happy that you took it apart and showed the inside. I’m going to remove that internal screen and put an inline screen in it instead. That’ll allow an easy screen change/clean when it becomes clogged.

[@TheGalifrey]

The outside fan can never fail while the heater is running as the same shaft runs the heater core fan. If one stops the heater will flame out.

[@donlange1491]

I'm homeless in a tent in Michigan. I heat with a diesel heater and a small wood stove. While doing research about diesel heaters, before I decided to buy one, another channel that does reviews said there's absolutely no difference between the 5kw and the 8kw. They are identical as you have discovered. The only difference is they charge more for an 8kw. So save your money if you'e going to buy a diesel heater and just get a 5kw.

[@1958johndeere620]

My insurance company said no wood stove in a shop because its an open flame and could explode with gas fumes. I said, " a furnace is not a closed flame and would do the same thing " They said yes, your right, but you can't have a wood stove because it could explode gas fumes due to open flame. Its like an argument with a fool.

[@turbolab2376]

Furnaces/ water heater in Canada need to be a minimum of 18” off the floor when installed in a garage, that is supposed to stop vapour explosions. Why we can’t just lift the wood stove off the ground idk but insurance companies hate wood heat. In Alberta it’s way cheaper even with a shit furnace to heat with natural gas. Have a wood stove and your insurance will over double, can’t burn enough wood to make it worth it.

[@skaaly]

We live in Minnesota and this state’s constitution offers that we have a right to keep warm in our spaces during winter. They won’t outright say no, but they’ll make it sound like that is what they are saying. Same with permits and paperwork, city hall or county offices won’t say no, they cannot say no, but they’ll make you think you’re not allowed.

[@jakefitzpatrick8550]

Had nothing to do with that. You can go get wood for free. Insurance is guided by the government like every other successful business. They don't want you do great your home fire free rather then buying fuels attached to the system.

[@kobolila-yt]

I have been running these for 4 years now. I have the 'all-in-one' style like you have there as will as the kit with separate components. The easiest 'hack' I found for increasing output on these is to either run them without the end cap which holds the clam shell case together or just cut out the grill pattern in the cap. Try it, run the machine with and without the cap; there is a significant increase in airflow without it. That grill pattern on the cap really impedes the airflow. The second thing, for the all-in-one kits, if it has a grill pattern punched into the metal case, is to cut out that grill as well, it too impedes the airflow.

[@xgouldiex]

You can burn waste oil in these but they carbon up all the time so you have to keep stripping them down and cleaning them. Kerosene / heating oil can be a very cheap clean option to run these heaters on

[@MikkelSV]

Turn the heat up, been running on waste oil for months without having to clean it.

[@nerys71]

I wish it was it should be a cheap option but kerosene is $9 a gallon around here :-( absolutely horrendous

[@tangocharlie9291]

Man, I’m fairly handy with a slab of wood, but a nervous Nellie with anything mechanical. In my mind EVERYTHING is designed with X tolerances, never to be taken apart lest it never be reassembled correctly! Watching guys such as yourself just take sht apart, exploring options for fuels (pumps, hoses, connecting-rods, etc…) and slapping it back together again is mesmerizing. Love it. Subbed!

[@davidwillis5016]

You could do the same brother, just have more confidence in yourself, exercise patience, take pictures of things before you take them apart that way you can refer to them during reassembly, you can do anything anybody else can, May the force be with you!

[@johanlundkvist5363]

Get a 12v power supply. I run minne on a cheap 12v 10A fixed voltage supply.Works great and no battery to care about. Just have to remember to shut the heater off and let it cool down. Before shuting of power supply.

[@Brian-mp2mv]

same here, and I also use the same power supply to power some of my 12vDC LED lights.

[@bforster2237]

I just installed one in my friends shop and it's a great little heater, I used an inverter to power it so no batteries to deal with. He decided to add another unit that I'll be adding on the other end of the shop. The heaters don't make that loud ticking noise in the newer models, its still there but barely audible unless you're right next to in.

[@Sah-o5m]

I enjoy all Deboss content, and DUDE you tease us with the Edison Dodge electric frame in the background. Its right there , so close and yet so far away!

[@legitdelirium3446]

I put used oil in a 55gal drum and use a 12v fuel pump going to a filter base that takes small block Chevy filters and drains into another 55 gallon drum. From there I have a second 12v pump that pumps into a 5 gallon fuel can that I fill halfway with diesel from the transfer tank in my truck. Been going strong on the 50/50 filtered used oil and red diesel for 2 years now on my 5Kw vever heater

[@Middleman570]

I love these videos mainly because like the heater I wouldn’t buy it because a normal review doesn’t cover real details. I appreciate it I don’t think I could deal with the ticking. Would drive me nuts.

[@Bigal61]

Hi mate from Australia, have a suggestion, I think from what I can see that there are 3 entries to the space heater that you are using for a muffler, great idea to use this to improve efficiency of the heater by the way, I would make a small change by moving the exhaust pipe to the top entry of the space heater and plug up the entry you have it going into now, this way, the coolest air will fall to the bottom and be expelled and you will trap the hottest gases at the top, just my suggestion

[@merlepatterson]

Drill and tap a hole in the far end of the radiator and plug the hole the current exhaust is attached to and the radiator should heat evenly.

[@carwashadamcooper1538]

There should already be a pipe plug on the other end. If not, your idea is excellent. Either way, it needs cross flow for good heat capture and dissipation. I've removed a couple/few tons worth of those from old houses and I've never seen one with the supply and return plumbed into the same end. That's an oddball, and must have been very inefficient even when new.

[@merlepatterson]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 Yeah, I agree.

[@benjamindyer7348]

I like the radiator idea BUT the exhaust will cool enough that the moisture in the exhaust will condense into liquid water. Water that is condensed as a combustion by product is very acidic, it will rust through the bottom of that radiator in a few months. It's important to not let the exhaust of any combustion cases condense unless it's in a controlled way, in a Stainless steel heat exchanger for example. And has to he drained away in plastic piping

[@thisnthat3530]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 Water flow would be much lower than the exhaust gas flow, giving it time to rise to the top properly. With this setup the hot gasses should be piped in at the top with the outlet at the bottom for the cooled gas to escape, preferably, as you say, from the opposite end.

[@ascot4000]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 It was common in certain areas to have 2 pipes on one side, or even just use 1 pipe for both flow and return on cast-iron radiators. We used to see these in places like cotton mills here in the UK. Amazingly you can still see 1 pipe setups in modern-day life in places like New York. Things you notice in old and posh hotel in NYC. That and the excess steam being discharged in the streets and alleyways of a major city.

[@LKLM138]

How much water buildup in the radiator after some use? When I built my system, I hooked and old car radiator to the exhaust, and sucked the air thru the radiator, and into the heater (preheating the air to the heater) and after about 5 hours the radiator started gurgling. I had the inlet low, and outlet little bit higher. it had been filled up with water from the exhaust. Alto there was -30c outside.

[@cyber641]

The 8KW are made, they larger than the 5kw. You can tune the 5kw to burn to about 8kw as you can tune a truly 8kw to burn over 10kw, but elevation plays a big factor and.... More fuel more heat means it can overheat faster and it will!. Also, yes all the parts are replaceable but they cost 1/3 the price of a new unit. The only part that's economically to replace are the bearings in the Fan, the inner ones will start to go after a year or so of tuned continuous use (heat destroys the inner bearing) . Also, I made, welded a flange to connect to a Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR cooler and have a solar hot water pump allowing the exhaust to keep my block warm on my VAN life E350 7.3 Powerstroke.

[@cyber641]

@christopherhines2718 I'm talking about the larger units, with larger burn chambers, not the tuned 5kw units

[@bixby9797]

I just bought one on Amazon and it was $80 with a coupon. It is going to be here on Saturday for use in the garage. Glad I stumbled across this. I had a Webaso in my truck years ago and it was superb. Down to the low 20's I never idled the truck and it put out great heat.

[@originaldylanbaxter]

Wish you'd published this video a few months ago. My brand-new $1500 EBERSPAECHER AM3 D4R has given me a ton of grief and since they redesigned the burner (welding the atomizer screen into place) it REALLY SUCKS TO SERVICE. Replacing the atomizer on these costs over 200USD. BUY CHINESE.

[@daszieher]

This is exactly what is putting us (in Germany) out of business. Oh, and it's not the Chinese's fault.

[@TheBibliofilus]

The new small 5kw Webasto and Eberspächer diesel heaters are pretty bad compared to the older ones, have had several on Volvo diggers and farm tractors that won't work when it's cold or simply quit working without any errors..

[@tiggywink1]

Nice job.... You could use some one inch copper tubing zigzagged through a mass of sand for a heat sink as well....Sand stays warm long time after shutoff.....

[@Lagittaja]

The used radiator is a good idea. However your specific type of radiator maybe not the best. I think that's a steam radiator? I would try to find a radiator that has connections at the top and bottom. In my apartment the water filled radiators have the inlet on top and outlet on the bottom. For running diesel heater exhaust through, you would obviously reverse the flow direction with that type of radiator. When it eventually clogs up, just replace it.

[@Lagittaja]

Although obviously a vintage steam radiator will flow more easily due to the larger internal diameters. I would try and find one with inlet and outlet on opposite sides on the bottom, those should exist based on a quick search. Or find one that has extra ports on the top, I don't know what their purpose is, probably for cleaning? That would be best, you'd be able to choose the best flow path for your situation. Maybe these types can be cleaned and prolong their useful life before the other passages clog up.

[@wobblysauce]

It works, just it is a lot of mass to heat from cool, but once at temp it will do well.

[@zachary3777]

​@@wobblysaucethe exhaust gas isn't flowing through the whole rad. It's basically staying in the first chamber. With steam, the temperature difference creates a large pressure differential that draws steam into cold spots in the radiator, where it condenses.

[@Lagittaja]

@@wobblysauce Well, I did say "maybe not the best". Sure, it will work. The radiator he used might have an internal baffle to prevent the hot exhaust from immediately flowing towards the exit. But the thermal camera did show that only the closest chamber to the inlet/outlet started warming up significantly faster at the top than the rest. Sure, the whole thing will eventually warm up from conduction but if the exhaust was forced to flow from one end to the other, the whole thing would heat up faster and overall extract more heat from the exhaust before exiting the radiator.

[@haydenc2742]

Yeah...pump in the hot gas on the top fitting, exhaust on the bottom, plug one of the holes out...would definitely heat it much better, all that cast iron would take a long time to heat...but would also hold a TON of heat...even a cheap fan blowing across it would increase the heat output as well

[@asgeiryn]

I've had some experience with different diesel air heaters. If you go to the big boys, webasto, ebenspecher etc. The bigger output heaters tend to have a longer burn chamber. From our friends on the other side of the globe who make things at a reasonable price, it seams to be 50/50 whether it has a longer chamber, or just a faster ticking fuel pump. But you can do a lot for the fuel pump noice by mounting it vertical, just for a while untill all the air is out of it, or permanently. I honestly haven't seen any bad side effects of having it vertical. Usually if they are at 45° the manufacturer is just giving you the chance of moilunting it on its side without issue. The seccond thing you can do is to soft mount it to a surface that doesn't rattle. Just grab an old fan belt and mount it to your table leg and run a longer hose. The one thing I say is a must with the oriental units. Is to take the soft hose that comes with it and replace it. More times than not, it is made of cheap materials that slowly dissolve in different types of fuel. (Can you spot the issue?). Like your setup. The radiator makes a heap of difference. I like to put the exhaust input into the top of the radiator and out the bottom on the far side. I also run a hardline fuel pipe through the radiator to preheat the fuel. Then I just heat the pipe "manually" from there to the unit before startup. I have jet to make an electric preheater for that, it just works.

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

There's a guy in the UK with a KZbin channel named Joshua DeLisle who has done a lot of reviews and experiments with these heaters. Definitely worth a look!

[@demandred1957]

Helloooooo

[@larrydickman6016]

​@@demandred1957 That's David McLuckie.

[@cortlundtowell5252]

I use my vevor heater while camping. I just mix in my old oil from my Jeep (0w-20) into a jerry can with about 2 gal or less. the oil is light enough that I'm not too concerned with it tearing up the heater pump. the deisel is in there to help with ignition only. If it's below 38ish outside, it takes forever to get straight 0w-20 to ignite.

[@_vilepenguin]

The glow plug needs 15 amps at start up. Repurposed HP server power supplies from eBay power them quite well, if you are not using a battery.

[@juliogonzo2718]

The one I have in my pickup (the physically smaller 2kw) draws about 9-10a during the glow plug cycle, its the same glow plug as the 5kw. I am using a lifepo4 battery that is a volt higher then lead acid so would be a tad higher amperage if I was running it off the truck battery. First year I was using the starting battery but the heater controller is reading 1.2V lower than the actual input voltage so it was getting error codes for low voltage and failing to start. Probably could change the board and control head to correct that but I already had the lithium battery.

[@christopherhines2718]

actualy 15a is the headroom the supply needs so it is not stressed start up and shutdown cycles is around 10A and yes computer supplies are great because they are switch mode supplies fairly small but lots of power so yeah an hp server supply would work good but its a little bit overkill because you can use just about any computer supply my one i made from a mini pc its already got 16 amps which is well within spec so larger desktops with more hardware inside can be 20-25 amps of 12v and believe it or not? you can also mod A xbox 360 supply so nice compact supply also 16a and i know of a guy who has used one with no problems on his diesel heater for 4 years already.

[@rexhavoc2982]

Good job talking, I just ran my new 5-K heater today, it makes no pump noise, well, just enough to tell it's working. Why the legs are so short the exhaust pipe won't bend tight enough to come out. Thanks for busting the heaters apart, now I need to learn the remote control settings, it may have a auto temp setting. Why dose the fuel pump need to be at a 45 ?

[@doublehelix109]

the exhaust is suprisingly cool. I brought one as a tent heater for snow / winter camping. on the lower settings you can hold your hand infront and touch the exhaust and it doesnt burn. theyre a great little heating device especially for the price. was very suprised

[@gregmoessner3104]

Was it as loud as this model?

[@doublehelix109]

@@gregmoessner3104 its not loud at all. the pump makes a tick tick tick noise and then its just the fan blowing. it varies on what setting you have it on, my display screen is different and goes from 1 - 10. leaving it overnight for camping we only needed it on 1 and had it on 2 & 3 in the snow

[@martyheathers3549]

I’m on my second season with one of these. I run purple diesel. It sat all spring summer and fall with the same diesel in it and fired right up and worked great. All the research I did which was lots and the five and eight watt are the same. Just branded different. Never tried burning used oil figured why mess with a good thing. Bought a second one for my other small shop or if needed I can double up in the one shop

[@teeslunk]

22:10 Trying to work while that power hammer is going off right next to ya. 😂😂

[@DrFiero]

A lot of that is the mic picking up that certain frequency. I've got one of these and it NOWHERE NEAR as loud as the video makes it!

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

It also echo's inside the container. But, some headphones and some tunes going and its worth the cheap heat

[@CyberlightFG]

That would drive me nuts. Can you replace that pump?

[@DrFiero]

@@CyberlightFG - Ear plugs are cheaper. :D

[@hurtinalbertan3844]

I like the cast iron radiator idea, I've seen online people weld up a heat sink that's filled with sand and they hold almost all of the heat, but take longer to heat up/cool down. you could put that radiator inside a box of sorts and fill it with sand and maybe get the best of both methods and save some welding work. I also heard of guys having problems mounting the exhaust going into the radiator at the bottom from condensation running back towards the heater

[@Mastermindyoung14]

Vevor makes turbos and LS heads now. 🤯

[@workingcountry1776]

My house was switched from oil to LPG heat approximately 2 decades ago. The oil tank in the basement is about 1/3rd full of fuel oil and it looks good. This would be a fantastic way to use up that old fuel.

[@anomamos9095]

You can make a mod to run just about anything that burns through it. Get some Brake line and coil it around the exhaust and have one end fed up into the burn chamber . You will probably need to close the end and drill a few tiny holes to reduce flow and create a spray pattern. Have the other end of the line attach via a non return valve to a tank that you can seal and put a little pressure into to force feed the fuel if needed . Once the burner is started with good clean fuel and has warmed up the used fuel tank it should start to feed the burner so you can then turn off the pump for the good fuel

[@AxxySnipes]

I have one and ended up using an old PC power supply to run it. Snipped off most of the wires and just used one of the high power outputs. Can get one for so cheap, or even free if you're lucky. Cheapest way to convert 120v to 12v.

[@wiredforstereo]

They are identical, they won't burn used oil, won't burn your shop down, just won't work after a couple days. There is an 8 kW available, though still rare, which has a larger heat exchanger, and larger air piping.

[@andrewcornford2306]

I use one to heat the ground floor of my house and workshop with one of these or the last two years, were not dead yet. I also have a one in my RV, that's been in there for five years. I use a diesel additive once a full tank in both heaters and never had to clean the burn chamber.

[@braaapattack2937]

i literally just bought one last night (hcalory thou) for my snowmobile trailer... nice

[@Sackmatters]

You’ll like it. The Hcalory heaters work good. I have a few of these heaters, various brands and they’re for the most part all the same.

[@braaapattack2937]

@ yeah. I seen, I just liked the Bluetooth interface with the hcalory, make setting it up to maintain a heated level a lot easier

[@turtle1723]

​@braaapattack2937 Vevor now has a unit with a Bluetooth.

[@Kj16V]

Great video. I love the idea with the radiator. One thing: I don't think you remembered to explain why you have to have the pump pointing 45 degrees upwards. I just turned mine vertically downwards, now I'm wondering if that's a bad thing!

[@xgouldiex]

There is no 8kw units there only 5kw you could add more fuel but the can only add enough air to burn 5kw worth of fuel

[@LN997-i8x]

Some of the 8km units come with higher-dose fuel pumps.

[@igloo2862]

I love the idea of the big radiator as a heatsink for the exhaust. I wonder how hot it actually get after 5 or 8 hours of use.

[@stans5270]

Exhaust on the opposite end of the radiator intake. The hot gases must then travel the entire length before they are expelled heating the entire radiator.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

I could not for the life of me get the plug out the other end. I think the 28 layers of paint are now structural

[@79huddy]

​@@DEBOSSGARAGElots of heat and beating on it with a needle scaler will get it out

[@steve9326]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE I ended using a torch to heat mine up and get that plug out

[@wessteinbrecker1508]

I don't know about diesel but we used an old felt hat in a funnel to remove water from the air craft fuel that got pumped out of 45 gal drums Keep up the great work. blessings

[@thedavesofourlives1]

would the felt attract the water or something?

[@bachtomin213]

The problem with using used oil heating is FJT can't get his cut on taxes at the pump for his Masters at the WEF.

[@Tb0n3]

Of course it must be a tax conspiracy and not because used oil has all sorts of metals in it that aren't good to breathe in.

[@MrRonluker]

Who is FJT? ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE TDS.

[@Ellasmm2-h3k]

I believe it was a typo. It should have said "FJB and the puppet masters."

[@Tb0n3]

@@Ellasmm2-h3k oh. That brainrot.

[@brapbrapmafucka]

Castro

[@jrperrotta]

Install the cast iron rad and heater in series no bends or 90's. If your rad doesn't have on opening on the other end just plug the port beside the inlet and drill out a 1 inch hole on the other end. Use silicone or any other product like muffler cement to seal the output exhaust.Not only will your rad have consistent heat throughout you won't lessen the exhaust flow from the heater.

[@wild_buckwheat]

A by-product of combustion is water. We've all seen the steam and water dripping out of a car's exhaust pipe at idle on a cold day. That water vapour in the exhaust absorbs other by-products of combustion which are very acidic. Exhaust needs to be hot so that the very acidic water vapour stays a vapour and doesn't linger in the exhaust system. If the exhaust is cooled too far then the water vapour condenses and now you have very acidic condensate water in your exhaust system. That acidic condensate will quickly rust out any exhaust system. Your radiator will take a long time to rust out because it is very thick and will see limited use. For every day use I doubt it would last much past 2 years. That's fine if you have a scrapyard full of replacements next door and are willing to spend time replacing it. Just thought it was worth a mention. Your radiator is a very simple idea to capture some heat, but you'll notice the exhaust on literally anything that uses combustion is hot, and acidic condensate quickly rusting everything out is the reason why.

[@TronJockey]

True. I'd consider using stainless steel automotive exhaust pipe. A long enough piece with a few curves should provide sufficient surface area to transfer heat without worrying about the acidic condensation which could be allowed to simply run out of the end.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thanks for that! A drain on the bottom will solve that issue I'm sure, but it won't see much use. Just once in a while. The main use for the heater will be in the Land Rovers while camping in the winter

[@daszieher]

​@@TronJockeyI'd use a heat exchanger to heat water and run the radiator with water instead of exhaust gases.

[@TronJockey]

@@daszieher - I was trying to extract as much heat as possible as simply and cheaply as possible. The heat exchanger idea is interesting; however you would still have to deal with corrosive exhaust byproducts interacting with the heat exchanger itself. I'm not familiar with all types of heat exchangers so maybe they make a stainless-steel version that could handle a corrosive environment. Might be expensive though. Alternatively, for the more frugal individuals, one could coil a length of copper tube around the exhaust pipe (soldered or brazed to the steel pipe), to act as a conduit for an ethylene or propylene glycol mixture. But all this starts to get complicated (and likely expensive as well).

[@asbjrnkvisle5831]

True. But the time it takes to rust out depends very much on the quality of the fuel you use. Better combustion, less acid water.

[@tfodthogtmfof7644]

This was really informative. I wonder if wrapping and rubber mounting the fuel pump would quiet it significantly.

[@leifhietala8074]

This is NOT "200% more efficient." It is significantly less inefficient. Your radiator is recapturing a significant portion of the waste heat the exhaust would otherwise throw overboard. Be aware that the moisture that condenses out of the exhaust stream can be quite acidic and resultant growing rust inside the radiator can block passages and choke the burner.

[@Pahrump]

Just stop

[@SacredHeart0520]

So could you tell us. The percentage Of gained efficiency then . Cause you seem to have. Agreed but wanted to tell him he’s wrong