S&W Model 10 Disassembly and Assembly

[@markd4109]

Probably the best and clearest disassembly and reassembly video of a S & W revolver on KZbin. Very well done....

[@JeffJBuck]

Huge Thanks! I bought a police trade in, had to slam the cylinder in, then it jammed after 2-3 rounds. Opened the side cover, saw the cylinder stop spring poking out sideways. Followed your instructions, got it placed corrrectly, light pressure locks the cylinder in, and it seems to be functioning smoothly. Big test will be at the range, but it that spring binds again, I'll have more data for the gunsmith. Couldn't have done it without the video.

[@brianquinn4528]

Great video! My son disassembled my 1905 and it's been in a baggie for 5 years. Re-assembly starts tomorrow.

[@lebommjohnson8101]

Straightforward, technically accurate, clearly expressed. A useful, informative video. Kudos !

[@wayneclark951]

Just FYI, this video works equally well with the model 66. Best one I've seen yet!

[@r.mercado9737]

Sir Two words, "Outstanding presentation and demonstration!" And of course, you worked on my all time favorite revolver, of which I have been searching as a purchase." My Dad owned one while with the NYPD and after passing away, it too disappeared. I have recently begun my search for the model 10-6, .38 S&W heavy barrel. With your permission, I like to stay in touch with you sir. In closing, this has been the best take down and reassembly I have yet to witness! Bravo Zulu! Semper Fi

[@TriggerHappy007]

Great job filming and explaining everything! 👏 Most people skip all that and i really appreciate you 🙏

[@dbx1233]

Thank you! You just saved me the cost of acquiring a gunsmith for my 1948 S&W 38 police special.

[@terryed6152]

Just brought a 10-6 exel con very little use. they are a treasure to own.Great video thank you.

[@The-Homecook-0000]

Why do you say they are a treasure to own ...I was just wondering

[@ojofelixnm3608]

Just completed cleaning and oiling my 1972 Model 18 which I purchased new and have never disassembled for cleaning and oiling. Thanks to you, it was an easy and enjoyable procedure. I am glad that I purchased the rebound tool from Brownells as that component is difficult to remove without the tool. Thank you again and happy Thanksgiving. Regards

[@wes7140]

Thank you so much for making this. Just picked up a model 10 that stopped advancing, and didn't realize the spring for the hand was in the trigger. Saved me a lot of time, Sir!

[@philiploria1702]

Outstanding video. I just repaired a friends S&W revolver thanks to you. It had been oiled too much and stored in an attic for 15 years. The oil turned to lacquer. a breakdown with ultrasonic cleaning and it's perfect. THANKS

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

That's great, I love that kind of story! But I'll bet you a buck it wasn't oil that lacquered it was WD40. I've seen that before, I've gotten rid of all my WD40 and switched to RemOil for lube and Kroll for penetrate.

[@philiploria1702]

@@ImminentThreatDefense May well have been. In any case you fixed the problem. THANKS!!!!

[@ypres1917]

Simply the best S&W disassembly/reassembly video on the net. I can now approach a detail strip on my Model 13-3 with confidence. However, I wish I had that special tool for the rebound slide - I'll have to make do with a small screwdriver. Thanks for a great video.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

+Ross Henderson Ross, I made that tool out of a piece of brass rod stock available at any hardware store. You can also buy one like it from Brownells on line. Another method is to use a file to notch your screwdriver, this will help keep the spring from sliding off the screw driver. I also saw Jerry Miculek use a Bic pen to do this work, the tip of the pen fits in the spring to help control it.

[@ypres1917]

Imminent Threat Defense Thanks for the great suggestions! I may just file a notch in the screwdriver - simple and practical. I have a number of S&W revolvers and need to keep them in tip-top shape.

[@douglassnyder1292]

Excellent video sir. I asked at a gun shop if I could remove the cylinders for easier cleaning and they told me not to mess with it, put the gun in a padded vice. So easy to remove the front screw and remove the cylinders. Thanks for the video.

[@richardcarpenter541]

Great video Thank you ...First time I did this was way before youtube ..But the gun was super nasty & would hardly work ..Here in small town kentucky we only had one gun smith at the time , And after seeing buggerd screws and scratches from some of his previous work ,I decided to do it myself..Re assembly was a real learning experience. After several attempts I got it back together and working fine ..Now I have in front of me a 14-2 Dayton pistol ..That needs a good cleaning ,,This video has refreshed what I learned and forgot many years ago...

[@timgmail6549]

Best 15 minutes I've spent in a long time. Thanks !

[@anonymoususer1952]

Very informative video! 10-6 had a fail to rotate one out of six every so often. Installed new cylinder stop, rebound, and main springs. Never knew about the hand spring inside the trigger assembly. After reassembly its running great. Thanks!

[@leonardonelson6895]

Simply exceptional, no intro, well explained, short and to the point. keep up the good videos. Thumbs up, of course.

[@nelsonnoname001]

THANK YOU SIR! (I took it apart, not too bad for guessing and my 1st time, even if it could be seen as reckless, but I 100% want to make sure it goes back together right haha. All I'm going to have trouble with is that rebound spring, might need to invest in one of those tools)

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

You can find the tool at Brownells but if you just going to do it once or twice you can take a cheap screwdriver and file a V-notch in the end. That'll do the job too. Thanks for watching.

[@JES2691]

A helpful side note. When removing the side plate screws mark small containers 4 and 6 and 9 corresponding to the position of the screws on the plate. Just in case so not to install the wrong one in a different spot. Great video.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Good idea! I've also seen were people sketch out the approximate shape of the part on a piece of cardboard and then punch holes in the cardboard with a knife blade and stick the screws in the appropriate holes. Thanks for the comment and for watching!

[@oldtoolie7211]

I noticed that you initially had difficulty removing the extractor rod from the cylinder when using pliers. After watching several times, I saw that you were rotating it in the wrong direction. Just a cautionary note for all, BE CAREFUL! A mistake like that can damage the extractor star.! On the plus side, I liked the fact that you removed the rebound slide before removing the hammer. Most other disassembly videos don't do this and I don't understand why. It makes the job a lot easier. Overall, this is just about the best tutorial on the subject I've seen. Excellent job and sorry to be a nit picker!

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Thanks for the comment. Good catch, it's been a while since I did this video, it was one of my first. I can't remember if I was trying to make a point that it wouldn't turn that way, or I was having a dyslexic moment :-) Either way I hope the commentary made it clear. Thanks

[@r.mercado9737]

I needed to revisit this site! This was again SUPER! Semper Fi

[@stetkal]

Thank you sir, this was very helpful in keeping my 10-6 shooting for mane more decades!

[@jeaservices]

Great job with the video. I can actually see what you're doing. I have a very gummed up model 36, and the special tool on the way. Thanks!!

[@vegdiver1]

Great tutorial, worked fine on my model 13. Thanks!

[@Texan1048]

I am currently on working on an old M&P that uses the old style cylinder block with just the plunger pin and no spring. The cylinder block on it broke, so I stripped it down, cleaned it really good, and am now awaiting a new cylinder block (got a new main spring too) to arrive. Your video will help with reassembly, thanks!

[@wilson8867]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Well explained!

[@williamdulohery2728]

Nice video. Helped out a lot on the 10-6

[@rdatkins1]

That's good work right there.

[@wilson8867]

You should put together a little tool set of the couple tools you use and sell them. I'd buy 1 to know I'm using exactly what I need to do the job simple but right

[@markbovingdon6376]

Wow! Many thanks. Excellent video.

[@chrisjanquart7550]

Always good to know.

[@harryreams6248]

I wish you'd do a video like this on a S&W Model 1917. Lots of videos on the Colt 1917 but none I can find on the Smith.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Just got a S&W 1917 in, I've shot the video, I'll be editing it soon so keep watching.

[@pappyboyington1650]

I'm a new Gunsmith Student....totally awesome video....great "inset" shots....great video quality...outstanding direction, narrative and illustration. This is the gold standard of a firearm instruction video. Thanks!

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Check out the S& M&P 1902 video I just posted. It's the predecessor of the Model 10 but has some subtle differences, like the cylinder rod on the 1902 is threaded the opposite direction. I appreciate the comments and thanks for watching.

[@catman351]

I used it to reassemble a Model 64. Lost a rebound slide spring, lol! Luckily, I had a spare.

[@cna430]

THANKS for your video. It sure helped me easily step through and disassemble a "vintage" (83) friends Victory model .38 which he inherited from his father. Dear olde dad had the hammer and cylinder chrome/nickle plated sometime after bringing it home from WWII. My friend wanted me to install a blued cylinder in the gun, for cosmetic reasons only. The original cylinder is serial numbered to the gun. The new one, obviously not. Both are right hand threaded and seem to be the same thread pitch and diameter. BUT the ejector rod will not thread all the way down into the ejector star, as does the original piece. Have you encountered this problem? At this point, I think I'm going to have to take this great old gun to a smith for some thread chasing as I don't have a tap for the job. Have you any suggestions/solutions for this "problem?" THANKS in advance.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Carefully compare the two ejector rods, if they are identical it seems odd one would fit but one wouldn't. I'd be inclined to spend a little more time cleaning the threads before trying to chase them with a tap. Additionally those cylinders were hand fitted at the factory to that frame. You may have issues getting the a different cylinder to function without fitting (not for the faint of heart)

[@joseadanalzategomez-gi6ln]

Desde cartagena colombia excelente video gracias

[@bearly1727]

I love your videos and I don't even own any revolver like this one.

[@dbx1233]

You seem like a pretty sharp dude, why don't you have an old S&W ?

[@VinniePepperoni]

Great video you are a life saver

[@harrisonmantooth3647]

Imminent Threat Defense, do you have a video for the assembly/disassemble of the Colt Diamondback? I really enjoyed watching this video you produced, you were very thorough in explaining and demonstrating how and where each part is placed and, functioned. Thanks. Stan

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I do have a video for the Colt Police Special, sorry I don't know how similar it is to the Diamondback. Check my channel site. Thanks for watching.

[@MATRIX1212able]

awesome video!! Thanx!

[@scottwest1813]

Excellent.

[@2541968joey]

thanks for a great video. I'm being offered a 10-5 with 2" barrel, might just have to close the deal.

[@tertia0011]

Much appreciate the video. Refurb of S&W Model 10 looks like totally worthwhile, great project for revolver handgun enthusiast. The revolvers have history, and much can be learned from this kind of project. I am waiting on Model 10-10 delivery & intend to do complete restore from parts to finish. I have fired Model 10 .38 at the range & after that I am hooked on S&W M10 .38 revolver - just right weight & calibre. It gave me confidence to shoot Colt .45ACP too. So many benefits. I love working with metal. My only concern with old revolver is springs. Well functioning springs are small but critical components of handguns. Can I get new springs for Model 10-10? If so from whom or where?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Wolff springs are a pretty good source for newer gun springs. For older parts Numrich and Jack First are my go-to suppliers.

[@nathanclark5771]

Great vid thanks so much. Hope you can give a little advice. Took the side plate off to put reduced trigger return spring and with the side plate on it will lock up but with the plate off it seems to function fine. It is not that the hammer block is not aligned for I tried it with and without the block. It seems as though when I tighten the plate screws it puts something in a bind. Thanks in advance.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I'm not sure which spring you are talking about, but that probably doesn't change the diagnostic procedure. Also, what exactly is locking up? I presume you mean the action, but is it only in double action or is it in single action? Start by putting back the original parts. Then like you tried with the hammer block, remove the parts you worked on one at a time and keep checking for the binding. The only thing that can bind against the side plate is the hammer block, unless a part isn't pushed all the way on it's stud and is raised up a little. So use a straight edge over the action and see if you can tell if something isn't installed correctly, (like the rebound bar). You can also putting some dykem on the back of the side plate and tighten up the side plate just enough that it rubs but doesn't bind and then look for rub marks. Good luck. let me know how it turns out.

[@Speed-Of-Light-By-Meter]

Excellent video - thank you for taking the time and effort to post it! Just wondering - would one be able to use these steps to perform the same work on a pre-victory S&W .38? 🙂

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

There were a few changes from the 1902 to this one but nothing significant from a disassembly standpoint. Thanks for watching!

[@Speed-Of-Light-By-Meter]

@@ImminentThreatDefense That's good to know - thank you very much for your rapid response!

[@mattmiller751]

great video. I have a question. So I have to hold the bolt back to cockvthe hammer...this isn't normal but can't figure out the issue. So I have to hold the cylinder release button on left side back in order to cocktail hammer. thanks

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Apologies for not responding sooner, I missed this comment when it came in. The issue is your extractor center pin stuck back inside the extractor rod. The center pin is what pushes on the bolt and holds it back so the hammer can cock. The center pin is probably just gummed up. You can try blowing a solvent like "Gun Scrubber" down the inside of the extractor rod, followed by some oil. Or you can disassemble the cylinder and clean it up. Good luck, thanks for watching.

[@mattthecat5036]

What are the micrometer measurements on those two screws...I got them mixed up! Is there a simple way to tell which is which? For instance, is one always longer? P.S. Thanks for the video.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

You can tell you've got the wrong one up front if the cylinder doesn't swing out easily. or if the yoke has any forward/back movement.

[@bobbybluarmz158]

I have a smith and Wesson 38 special ctg with serial number under the butt S 813308 but the cylinder seems to be locked the release button slides back and forth but will not allow cylinder to slide out,the hammer will not move back and the trigger also won’t pull back,this firearm was gifted to me by my best friend,I unscrewed the number screw to the cylinder and it still won’t slide out,does anyone have any suggestions ? I haven’t taken any other screws out or touched the knurled rod that runs from under the barrel through the cylinder,the revolver is beautiful and I want to know if anyone had any advice or input on what steps I could do to possibly get this firearm to function,what would cause this to be so locked up it isn’t rusted at all

[@andycorbymusic1560]

Hi there. I have a old smith wesson 38 V. Not sure which way to turn extractor out? Thought it should be reverse but no luck. Wondering if I’ve got it wrong. The yoke on this particular revolver dose not slide off rod, if that helps. Btw absolutely great videos.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

A Victory model would almost certainly be normal right hand threads (lefty loosey). But the direction of thread varies depending on which S&W revolver model and when it was made. Generally, and I mean generally, S&W revolvers made before the late 60's early '70's were normal or "right hand" threads. Sometime in the that time period on most (probably all, but I'm being purposely vague here in case there's an exception) S&W's they started changing over to reverse or "left hand" threads. So, depending on when they made the change on your model, it might be a different year on another model. What I do when I don't know the thread direction, is grip the rod in a padded vice or a rod tool and turn the cylinder, gently at first, with each attempt I reverse the direction of turn and slightly increase the amount torque. This is kind of tricky but has worked for me. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

[@andycorbymusic1560]

@@ImminentThreatDefense fabulous thank you. For some reason I had it in my head the other way round, revers more common on war time etc. All experience and again most grateful for yours.

[@josephlyle6562]

I have a model 10-5 that has an issue where after I close the cylinder after reloading that the hammer will not pull back and I can't pull the trigger unless I'm holder the cylinder release switch back. Any ideas on how to repair that?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

The center pin (in the cylinder) is probably gummed up and not moving freely. The center pin is spring loaded and it's what pushes the cylinder release back when the cylinder closes. Look to see if the center pin is protruding from the center of the extractor star, and when you push it in does it spring back out. If not that's probably the issue. Try ultrasonic cleaning and oiling, if that doesn't work then disassembly of the cylinder and thorough cleaning should fix it. It's also possible extractor rod and or center pin are bent, but that should be obvious.

[@CaptainRon956]

I just picked up a S&W mod 10 4" heavy barrel from J&G sales. I wonder if these pistols were inspected, cleaned, or should I take a look inside the side plate to see for myself if there's any dirt buildup inside?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I wouldn't venture a guess if they've even been cleaned, let alone inspected. :-) Any time you take a revolver like this apart there's always a little risk of scratching or marring the screws or the finish. Too many disassemblies will eventually effect the fit of the side plate. But given that it's a used gun and you don't know the history I'd say at least a side plate removal and inspection is warranted. Whether you do it yourself or turn it over to a gunsmith, I'll leave to you. A gunsmith or certified armorer is going to be able to give it a thorough inspection. Remember that yoke screw is a special screw keep it separate. Thanks for watching!

[@CaptainRon956]

My intentions were to eventually contact S&W to inquire if I can ship it to them for inspection/restoration work. I love model 10's & it's intended use will be for shooting bowling pins at our outdoor range, informal target shooting with the guys, home defense, and maybe... just maybe occasional carry. Thanks! And I enjoy your videos...

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Check with S&W but I don't think they'll take guns in for service if they are too, old. I can't remember how old is too old but I know they wouldn't look at 1930's revolver I have. You might have to go to a gunsmith or armorer.

[@CaptainRon956]

Just got off the phone with S&W CS, they'll be more than happy to take my 10-8 in for cleaning/inspection. They do charge $90 hr. however. And if any parts need replacing they'll do it, for a fee of course but in the end, I'll have piece of mind knowing it'll be good for another life time.

[@Lee-rq1ek]

It'll be covered by warranty, too. To answer you initial question, whenever you buy a used firearm, check it for debris and oil it. You have no idea how it was used by former owner(s).

[@JES2691]

How much would you charge for a rebound slide spring tool if you made some to sell? I would be totally interested in purchasing one.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Brownells sells them for $20, I'm not sure I could beat that (part 080-666-000WB). Mine only has about 50 cents in material but probably $50 in labor :-) You can make alternative one, by cutting a notch in the tip of a cheap flat screwdriver, that will allow you to hook the spring as well.

[@brandont9078]

Thanks for the video. Can the firing pin be replaced without removing the hammer (gun intact)?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

No, the firing pin (technically the "hammer nose", I got it wrong in the video) is riveted to the hammer. So the rivet has to be drilled out to replace the nose and then finished smooth, not an easy job. Alternatively, you can replace the entire hammer assembly, but that's also going to probably mean refitting/replacing the sear. Another advanced skill job and tricky too because it effects the trigger pull. So you're getting into gunsmithing level work. However, the parts are available and if you didn't mind ruining a part or two in the learning process well.... Thanks for watching!

[@brandont9078]

@@ImminentThreatDefense thanks but it seems like it can simply be hammered out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ape9pHx7nc2jjJI

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

@@brandont9078 Yeah that video pretty much describes the process for replacing the rivet. The answer to your original question remains the same, the hammer has to be removed from the revolver. And it requires special tools and skills. As I said not impossible just tricky if you've never done it before.

[@brandont9078]

@@ImminentThreatDefense I managed to replace it without removing the hammer by supporting the hammer and carefully driving out the rivet and installing/seating the new rivet. Thanks!

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

@@brandont9078 Well done!

[@ReinSman100]

Do pre model 10s have the hammer block???

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

+ReinSman100 The very first variant of the model 1899 did not. It wasn't incorporated till about the 4th or 5th variant, which by then was called the Military and Police model of 1905, which contrary to the name, didn't get introduced until 1915 was the hammer block incorporated.

[@ReinSman100]

+Imminent Threat Defense Is there anyway to tell what year that a pre model 10 was made?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

+ReinSman100 The best way is to make a "Firearm History Request" direct from S&W. Internet search or try www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_757825_-1_757814_757812_image

[@Texan1048]

Mine is pre-model 10. Check to make sure the hammer block isn't stuck to the side plate, that's generally where mine stays.

[@danielburns7519]

is the hammer spur suppose to move up and down .If not how do you fix it.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Yes it does move up and down. And technically it's called the "hammer nose", I got in wrong in the video, and one of my viewers corrected me.

[@danielburns7519]

@@ImminentThreatDefense thanks for the reply, my 10-5 moves a good bit and when I bought it. I took it to the range and it misfired one of the six and I thought it might be the hammer nose

[@SpartacusColo]

What happens if you swap the crown-head screws on the cover-plate?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

It could cause friction on the yoke. So when you open or close the cylinder it won't swing out easily. You can also get yoke end shake.

[@SpartacusColo]

@@ImminentThreatDefense So good of you to reply, sir! Thank you! I recently purchased a Malaysian Royal Police turn-in M10 (first Model 10 I've owned) which needed a clean-out, so your video was invaluable. Thank you for posting! One issue I am encountering, which partially prompted my question (I thought perhaps the screws had been swapped at some point in its life): the cylinder will not release properly, consistently. It seems to release better on some cylinders, but not on others: I can attempt to release, cycle the gun, attempt, cycle, etc. till it finds a spot it releases cleanly on. It could be random, but cycling will make it happy if it doesn't just release on the first go. Otherwise it requires a little force, or it is stuck in place and I dare not push harder until I rotate the cylinder. The resistance is, definitely, taking place at the tip of the extractor: the back of the cylinder does want to swing out. There is the barest of front/back play in the yoke where it meets the frame. It seems I can make the process easier at times by pushing back on the cylinder while swinging it open. I thought maybe the wrong screw might allow for the play, and cause the issue, but I see issues being potentially due to the bolt, the tip of the extractor, or the front lock bolt? On another note, the lock-up is slightly loose, but not badly: if you happen to have a suggestion for a fix, I would appreciate it! The spring for the cylinder stop is obviously bent, if that matters. Yours in the video is perfectly straight. The gun is definitely worn, late 70's manufacture and extensive service in a humid climate, but it otherwise operates perfectly! The trigger really is great, and seems to be perfectly accurate. I am a maintenance guy, so I get it that you likely won't just 'know' what is going on with my revolver based on a 'tech-support call'. Thank you again!

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

@@SpartacusColo I looked in the armorers manual and they list 14 different issues that can cause this problem :-). I'd start by having a look at all the moving parts, do a visual check then move them all individually. Look for wear or bent pieces or anything not moving smoothly. However, things that only happen at a certain cylinder position, point to a bent yoke. Send me an email at [e-mail] and we can go into more details.

[@SpartacusColo]

@@ImminentThreatDefense All praise to you for taking the time, sir! Thank you! All the best!

[@SilenCr]

Can I use this guide for my Model 14 aswell? Are they the same?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I've never disassembled a 14 but like the 10 it's a K frame. My understanding is the 14 (and 15) are just a fancied up versions of the 10. So this video should be similar, but I can't be positive. Take your time, stay within your skill set.

[@SilenCr]

Its the same, just did it. Thanks for the video :)

[@trentwilson855]

The 15 is 357 Mag where the 10 is 38

[@Hungwaylow]

My extractor rod won’t lock in place any ideas I don’t under why it won’t

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

do you mean the locking bolt (video at 5:18) isn't catching the front of the extractor. In which case the locking bolt pin might be stuck in the retract position (rust?). Or did you mean the extractor rod is too long and won't clip into the locking bolt. In which case you probably didn't screw the extracting rod in far enough or you cross threaded it so it won't thread on, or something else is interfering with the cylinder closing all the way. Or did you mean the extractor rod when screwed into the cylinder keeps coming loose, in which case screw it in tighter. Hope that helps.

[@alonsorivascastillo5740]

I’m trying to restore one of these, any chance someone can help to identify the exact model and frame?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Go to swhistoricalfoundation.com/ for a service charge they will give you an authentication letter with some history on the revolver. Otherwise, what markings can you see?

[@sonicice8340]

I have a small rattle in mine any ideas???

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

That it's probably not good? :-) Start by tapping various parts with a screwdriver handle see if you can narrow it down. Then take off the grips, that's were largest air void is so the most likely place something can rattle around. Be careful and do it over a towel or sheet so you don't lose what ever is making the noise it could be a part you need. Last resort take off the side plate and see if everything looks normal

[@youx5905]

Nobody in you tube does the disassembly of the firing pin from the hammer!!!!, i wan to know in case of a broken spring or firing pin. thanks grettings

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

The reason is the firing pin is held on with a rivet not a pin. The only way to remove the firing pin is to drill out the rivet. That get's pretty complicated and you risk wrecking the hammer. Plus replacing the pin requires grinding and finishing the hammer and it won't look factory anymore. So you're getting into that level 5 repair work. So while you might try it if you broke the firing pin, you wouldn't do it as routine maintenance. The sear on the other hand can be removed by just pushing the pin, and there's a small spring underneath it.. But if you replace the sear it requires some stoning/filing to fit it, again level 5 work. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.

[@tracyjohnson3177]

@@ImminentThreatDefense I was wondering about the sear pin myself. Thank you for that information!

[@alexisrodriguez6429]

Were did u get the gold tool

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I made that one myself out of brass rod stock but you can find a couple of different types at Brownells or Midway USA or just Google "smith and wesson rebound spring tool"

[@thomasp6333]

how do i tell what kind of letter frame i have?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

It's determined by frame size and features. On newer guns go to S&W web site. On older guns you'll have to do some research, see the link in the comment below to get a Firearm History Request, trying calling S&W customer service and just asking. or try this blog site (I can't vouch for the accuracy or the author) www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Smith%20&%20Wesson%20J,%20K,%20L%20and%20N-frame%20Comparisons.htm or just tell me what model you have.

[@thomasp6333]

+Imminent Threat Defense 38 s.&w. special ctg

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

If your gun was made before 1957 it will not have a model number, just a name and may not be marked. To find the model number open the cylinder and look on the yoke cut out in the frame on the left side, look for a two or 3 digit number that'll be your model number. Here's another web reference for frames www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp

[@ludsat1]

I do networking cable and my head is about to explode watching this....I only made it half way of the video

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

No way, I just did a bunch of CAT5 connectors for my house, I'll take the model 10 any day. :-)

[@thefinders4436]

I need a frame where can I get one?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

The frame has the serial number so it's a new gun, you can't buy a replacement frame because you're actually buying a gun.

[@thefinders4436]

Imminent Threat Defense so if the frame is cracked bent or damaged I can’t replace it I’d have to basically buy a brand new gun?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

The frame is the "gun" everything else is just parts. If you can find a frame you'd have to go through an FFL to buy it.

[@thefinders4436]

Imminent Threat Defense oh I see okay thank you!

[@sushiamezaki9869]

Great Now I Can Get Reincarnated In Another World....Just Need Some Magical Liquid Metal...

[@robertbrandywine]

Too fast. Slow down!

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

I feel your pain :-) It's a challenge deciding how long to make these videos. My first video was about 30 minutes long and even I found it boring, so I've tried find a happier medium. This one is about 15 minutes and still the average watch time by youtube viewers is only about 5 minutes and it's one of my most popular videos. I'll try harder in the future, but in the mean time you'll just have to use the rewind, sorry. Thanks for watching.

[@Lee-rq1ek]

You did a fine job. It is why there is a pause and reply button.

[@brianquinn4528]

@@ImminentThreatDefense This is great! You keep it all business and we can pause/rewind at any time. Vocal tone is excellent and there isn't any extraneous side stories. It's technical and palatable at the same time.

[@12bmwxxx]

nice n helpful

[@blackhawknj]

Excellent video. I like the orange cloth, provides a good contrast. I use magnets to hold small parts. Also having the hands work from the top makes for greater visibility.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Thanks for the feed back. I've tried all different camera angles and I agree this angle is best, but it means I have to work on the gun upside down, which technically doesn't make a difference, it just feels weird. :-) I picked the orange by accident really, I've got an old mechanics blanket and after the first video I put it on the table to reduce the clanking noise every time I set down a tool or part, now it's become my trade mark. Makes my video thumbnails easy to spot too. Thanks for watching!

[@timothybagrowski643]

Excellent Video, I made the mistake of removing the hand from the trigger, I had no idea there's that spring in there, put it back together and the Cylinder no turn, Back to square one, Found your Video and Boom, Back together and working again. None of the other S&W videos I watched mentioned anything about a spring for the hand. Thanks for saving what's left of my sanity.

[@farstrider79]

Excellent! I recently inherited a 10-6. I opened it up as far as removing the plate and putting a drop of oil on the obvious wear points because after shooting it, it felt like it had been a few decades since it had seen any oil. I was afraid to break it down further because lack of knowledge.

[@Texan1048]

Thank you! Managed to rebuild my pre-1945 Victory with these instructions- few minor differences but nothing major!

[@alehustle]

thanks!!! this video helped me with a question about the maintenance of my S&W

[@brandongillespie3355]

This is the best take down and reassembly video on KZbin, Thanks for such a detailed video.

[@ClintVWMusic]

I just used this video again!!! Its the best one for model 10 out there. Thank you!!

[@ranhat2]

Outstandingly clear demonstration and full of insiders' knowledge--especially the spring coments. The red pad and layout are something all of us should copy, as with your tools. One thing: with such excellent visuals it is frustrating when light does not penetrate deeper at all times to show clearly matching and fits. A two-light system, or more, even a light tent or emulation, would open up dark/shadow, if any other great videos are made. Bravo for this finest demonstration I have seen.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate the feedback. I have struggled with the lighting, the dark yet shiny surface of the firearms is very challenging to video. Plus I've got far more experience with firearms than I do with video's :-) but I'm learning. If I was going to do it over, I would have used a light blue or light grey background, it would be easier to color balance, but orange has kind of become my trademark, it makes my video thumbnails easy to spot too. This was one of my early videos (number 6 out of 41), I've since upgraded to a 3 x softbox system, an improved microphone/recorder system and a new camera. I have kind of homemade lighting system for closeups. If I could just get KZbin to quit limiting monetization on my videos (or at least tell me why they're doing it) I might make enough to justify some lighting and cameras for better closeup work. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@uzzivalencia9182]

Thank you so much! You helped me repair my victory model that I just inherited. The cylinder was not rotating because the hand had not been installed correctly. Now it works just fine and I can't wait to take it to the range. Thanks a million!

[@nickporter9264]

Excellent video! I am the proud owner of a 10-10 that is in great condition. I may have one issue with it. When the cylinder is opened, the cylinder has a bit of play on the yoke and can move back and forth in line with the ejector rod. Is this normal? If not, how do I fix this issue? Many thanks.

[@markg1291]

Thank you for this excellent tutorial. I run a small armourer business and one of my clients still run the mod 10 in their day to day operations. This is most appreciated.

[@ATINKERER]

I sent my S&W 36 to S&W for repair in early July, I got it back in February. First off, they got my contact information wrong so I never got the estimate so I could approve the work. Then they had my gun down for the wrong work and not what I asked for. Then my gun got misplaced!Then in late January when I called to ask about the progress of the work, I got a very combative customer service representative. I AM NEVER BUYING ANOTHER S&W AGAIN!!!

[@MrVWQ]

This is the best detailed video I have seen in a very long time on ANY DIY project. Thank you very much for making this!

[@kayagoktas7256]

I have a model 10-9 too. This video has been very helpful. Thank you so much.

[@tracyjohnson3177]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative!

[@bestmillimeter1858]

Where did you get that screwdriver? I'm having a difficult time finding one that will fit.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

That's a Chapman, they come in sets. There are other good screw drivers sets (Grace, Magna). All good gunsmith screw drivers have flat blades of various width and in each width there will be various thicknesses. Plus they are hollow ground, perfect for fitting precisely to the screws so you don't mess them up. I'm sure you can find these on many locations on the web, but Brownells has them. Go to the Chapman site first (chapmanmfg.com) and look at the gunsmithing sets. I bought mine a long time ago, but it's equivalent to the basic (9600) set. If you're serious about taking care of your guns, spend a little extra on good screwdrivers, punches (square shouldered brass) and hammers (brass/plastic). Basically all the tools you see me using in this video :-) But it sounds like you already appreciate the importance of good tools. Thanks for watching!

[@VCBird6]

You're a braver man than I, good sir. Nice work. EDIT: your video allowed me to be a braver man as well-took my old 40's Pre-Model 10 apart with your video's help. Thank you!

[@Nesmaniac]

Great video very well explained thanks for posting.

[@florianvolelli423]

Hello, i have one question: How to indentify cylinder screw from the others screws? Thank you

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

The best way is to keep track of it when you remove it :-) There are two screws that look identical, those are the front screw and the middle screw. The front screw is generally shorter. But try them both in the front hole then check the yoke for freedom of movement, the cylinder should flip out easily. Also check the cylinder shake the yoke shouldn't move forward and back. I've found when I mix them up the wrong screw causes the yoke to bind and the cylinder doesn't flip out easily.

[@florianvolelli423]

Imminent Threat Defense Great! Thank you very much, i will try that!

[@madmanmechanic8847]

I found out that I may have a special 10-6 but it is not a 38 its a 357 Magnum and I found out that in the early 70s NYSP special ordered this chamber for the officers it may be one of 1200 produced. It is in excellent shape but I don't think I am going to do a complete tear down just remove the grips and side plate and just do a flush and clean and lubercation. Be my luck springs would fly. Things have gotten bad with business I am going to sell it . Thanks for the video very well done Sir

[@OuijaSTi]

Thanks for the video, it was of great help in taking the old Model 10-1 apart that I got from an estate. Mine also had an interesting black plastic accessory mounted on the front of the grip to help lower your grip on the gun and ensure that your trigger finger is more in line woth the trigger naturally. The plastic even had a S&W marking so I assume it was a factory accessory from some era. I believe it was an old police issued gun.

[@ClintVWMusic]

I have three old 38's I parkerized. This was my go to video if I had any issues with the re assembly. Well Done! Thank you!!!!!

[@94233psu399154112333]

Great video. Thank you for posting this. Might help to get some sound damping panels or foam around the room to eliminate the echo. But good stuff.

[@chadbethea9005]

Found a easy way with the rebound slide a small flat head between the pin and the spring comes out easy and goes in easy that way hopes this helps if you dont have the tool

[@augustodelaselva2851]

the best video about disassembly and assembly of a revolver smith and wesson i ever seen

[@lonebeagle]

How do you know which direction are the threads of the extractor rod? You say, "Do your homework". Where can one find this information?????

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

There are various book sources, I've got the GunDigest book of Revolvers, I also attended the S&W Revolver Armorer school and have a bunch of manuals, but the internet is a wonderous thing, full of thousands of people who have no idea what they're talking about, and a couple who do. But the direction of thread varies depending on which S&W revolver model and when it was made. Generally, and I mean generally, S&W revolvers made before the late 60's early '70's were normal or "right hand" threads. Sometime in the that time period on most (probably all, but I'm being purposely vague here in case there's an exception) S&W's they started changing over to reverse or "left hand" threads. So, depending on when they made the change on your model, it might be a different year on another model. What I do when I don't know the thread direction, is grip the rod in a padded vice and turn the cylinder, gently at first, with each attempt I reverse the direction of turn and slightly increase the amount torque. This is kind of tricky but has worked for me.

[@johnhudson1545]

GREAT video, thanks so much.

[@ronaldcampbell3666]

Thank you. Awesome video

[@foghornnosehorn8383]

This is so much more complicated than my Glocks, wow! I'm almost afraid to try but I have a 1966 .38 Spl that the hammer won't cock back unless you pull it back and then give it an extra hard press to click it back. I'm afraid a full dissasemble & cleaning is what it needs.

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

Yeah I always get a bit of chuckle when people tell me how much simpler and reliable revolvers are. You pop one of these open and you realize it took an artist to assemble and fit the parts, then you reconsider just how simple they aren't.

[@zankichdesign]

I have a 10-6 I bought in pieces and your video helped me get it back together without an issue… save one. I cannot get the plunger pin (extractor rod plunger under the barrel) to go in without hitting the plunger. I’ve indexed the plunger so that the groove is in alignment with the pin hole, but just a couple small taps with it barely in and the plunger won’t budge. I know to push the plunger in slightly while inserting the pin, but 5 tries and no dice. Is there a trick I’m missing?

[@ImminentThreatDefense]

the plunger could be rotating when you start tapping on the pin. Try using an alignment pin//drift or a slave pin, either would be slightly smaller than the pin you're trying to drive. That way you can push the alignment drift in by hand since it's a loose fit, then chase it out with the actual pin, that way the alignment drift keeps the plunger from rotating. Also make sure the pin isn't larger on one end or disformed in any way. You can see how I use alignment drifts in my Colt 1903 video and I have a video on making and using slave pins. For what you're doing you could use a slightly undersized drill bit (the shaft end) as an alignment drift.

[@TXSTLIGHTBEER]

I guess I don’t need to take it apart anymore