Sail Life - Blue Sea electric panels & first coat of varnish in aft cabin - DIY sailboat refit

[@RealityIsTheNow]

You wouldn't deprive us of the speedo, surely?

[@SailLife]

Trust me... You want to be deprived that experience! ;) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHTVfJailpyKgsk

[@RealityIsTheNow]

Wow.

[@Pat.Mustard]

Haha. But you could feel so European.

[@W4ABN]

So long as it's not a "mankini"

[@trailbarge12]

flush mount and surface mount

[@Jacoblejd]

Being an enthusiastic sailor, but not so handy, binge watching your videos has become my guilty pleasure. I guess I aspire to have the same lust for DIY and set of skills that you have, your videos are oddly captivating. My dear wife laughs every sunday when she hears the signature "hi guys" come from my phone.

[@jimjenkins673]

These Saturday nights get lonely on the boat till you gat back on Sunday morning.

[@powerelectronicsguyl306]

I install/refit electrical systems for a living. You made excellent choices with Blue Sea products. You will never be sorry for installing swing-down panels. Do NOT rely on terminal blocks behind the larger monitor access panel but rather reserve that space for future remote sub-assemblies/modules. To provide clearance for the adjacent DC swing-down panel, first swing down the smaller adjacent AC panel all the way (almost 180 degrees) down. Limit the DC panel swing to no more than 90-100 degrees. You probably already know that higher voltage means lower amperage which also means "skinnier" wire. Investigate whether or not 400 volt (2-pole+neutral) shore power is available at your marina. If so, then install the proper mating plug/shorepower receptacle. AC motors (for pumps, macerators, water makers, winches, etc.) will soon become a reality. Although the 230V inverter would be acceptable for your single pole receptacle breakers, a generator is more practical for powering (2-pole) higher voltage motors. When swung down, all AC breakers especially 2-pole (400V) breakers, should have rubber boots installed to guard against shock and/or short circuiting from a dropped hand tool. You will also discover that installing a headliner throughout the cabin with a 5 or 6 cm clearance above it, will provide an excellent maintainable access for not only lights and speakers, but also for wire harnesses, mast coax cables, etc. that cannot be easily installed behind side wall panels or under the cabin sole. Hope this helps. Jack, aka electricalpowerguy.

[@kirkbeaumont5295]

My Sunday feels complete now 😀

[@SailLife]

Hehe, I'm glad I could help :D

[@gasparddelaforce2764]

Monday mornings in Australia = new Sail Life episode. Thanks Mads

[@edlampkin]

I very much enjoy your videos, but I also dread the day you've finished the restoration and I will no longer be able to spend my Sunday with my friend Mads! Keep up the wonderful work!

[@Tinker001]

He'll probably buy another boat when that happens...

[@bobhope781]

I think it is great that you gave blue sea the benefit of doubt about the template. Thanks for sharing.

[@impirk3212]

Mads, I have been restoring a 30 foot Catalina I bought for $5.00. She has good bones but needed a lot of work. I was very scared to drill, cut and grind into the fiberglass. After watching your videos I have realized that I can do that work. Thanks for the inspiration!

[@JakeSpeed1000]

Great video Mads. If you will score the plywood with your utility knife and a straight edge, you can minimize or eliminate the chip-out you are seeing from your jigsaw (or circular saw). Just keep your blade biased the the waste side on the cut. I realize you will probably cover it with trim but it is easy to a chunk that is bigger than your trip.

[@edrussell4114]

Mads, just thought i'd let you know something I did the other night, I went to a major retail store and logged onto their free wifi back in the electronics department. I then pulled up Sail Life on You Tube.... on every single computer display! Of course I "Accidentally " hit the play all channel on all of them. oops hahaha. So enjoy the free publicity. Keep up the good work sir. Fair winds Ed Russell

[@harleyghost]

I really enjoy watching your videos. The people from your country must be wonderful if you are an example of them. Also you are doing a great job on the sail boat. Great job, keep it up.

[@moejaime2654]

WOW !! I wish I could go to New York and meet you Mads ; but I am disabled and really can't travel . I hope you make videos like always . I will have fun vicariously thru great videos you always take like always .

[@mrjsmoss]

For no more often than you'd need access, I'd just remove the four (?) screws and pull the panel out. You're doing a good job on your boat AND the videos. Thanks

[@svzephyrus1673]

For access to the back of the dc distribution panel you might consider placing a piano hinge directly on one edge of the panel itself. The panel on my boat is installed this way and it works quite well. All of the wiring is routed in bundles towards the hinged edge, which keeps things nice and tidy when accessing the back of the panel. Something that seems to happen far more than one would imagine.

[@Realtor_Rion]

Hello, In regards to the larger panel. You could use a Piano hinge vertically with a push magnet to open and close the door. This would keep it from shaking. Similar to a glass door on an entertainment center. Thank you for opening up your boats to us. I enjoy the videos you produce every week.

[@redhedrachful]

Interesting about the ice melting and gusts of wind blowing the hull into the ice! Had no idea about that. Great video as always!

[@legend343]

Looks like you can get to the prop from a dinghy instead of dipping yourself. Hypothermia comes on pretty bloody quick even if you have a good dry suit. And going under the water with a survival suit I don't think you'll be able to.. Good luck with whatever you try... You really are a pendant and it's wonderful to watch. Warren

[@gregoryyount6907]

Whenever varnishing, use the biggest brush possible - especially when laying on the early coats when you are trying to build up the surface film. When I am using a satin or matte finish varnish, I do the first few coats in gloss, with the satin reserved for the last two or three coats. The flattening agent in the satin varnish takes away clarity of the grain if used for too many coats, i.e., 5-7 coats. How about a horizontal piano hinge across the bottom of the 12V panel. You know that you will be wanting to get in and make changes/additions in the future, and that would simplify things. Looking good!

[@flyingdutchman6984]

I have found that the careful use of a heat gun and scraper is the best way to remove varnish. It takes a little bit of practice and can of course leave burn marks if you are too aggressive with the heat gun.

[@jerryf609]

Here's an idea for hinging your DC panel. Cut the plywood about 3/4 inches all around the panel. Hinge it along the bottom. To cover the seem, mount thin trim around the plywood that the panel is mounted on, overlapping the seem. You would need a hinge that swings out in order to clear the trim on the bottom.

[@Unwrittentimeline]

The distribution panel on our boat has the hinge at the bottom of the actual panel. You might need to cut a little more clearance for the swing at the top but it would save you from a visible cut. Great video.

[@Casetube100]

Funny! I started to look a bunch of videos of your channel during the last days (made those sad wheather days a lot better!). So fine to see that the work goes on. I got a smile on my face thinking about what would happen, if you dont upload a new video on sunday evening.. .I guess the followers will think that something happened .... accident or what ever on the boat. So I think if this would happen, the guys here would call the police or a doctor to look if everything is fine! Best regards from germany.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

As I suggested previously, a soy based stripper works very well on thinner coatings like varnish. It brushes on and starts working immediately. The finish literally melts and starts running down like hot butter! You need paper towels or old rags to mop up the melted finish. Almost no scraping and a small stiff nylon brstle brush will take care of the nooks and crannies. Best of all? Non toxic, biodegradable!

[@Bacoprah]

another great episode Mads. The first coat looks awesome. Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan

[@andrewballantine]

Mads, you made me wince when you were chiselling that small piece of wood towards your left hand which was holding the piece of wood. Might I suggest you invest in a small clamp or suction vice to hold small items as you work on them. I have dug a chisel into my left hand enough times to know not to do it any more. Great video. I'm looking forward to the rest of the electrical installation so please don't leave anything out.

[@sgtsquiggs]

For the DC panel seamless cut, just make the cut and cut a new piece from scraps to replace the small right end. You'll already have a template! Make is slightly wider and plane to fit!

[@terrywilke9398]

You could just access the main large panel by taking the screws out of the front and leaving enough wire length to pull it out. If you were worried about the screws wearing out their purchase you could put a bit of backing around the inside of the hole and then use machine screw inserts. Also whatever you chose to do, that idea you had of using terminal blocks is a great one! It's been my experience that it saves many times whatever the cost was in terms of time spent installing it. And it makes for super easy and electrically sound additions whenever they come along which they undoubtedly will eh?

[@renekongsbak8954]

Hello Mads Now I am going to bed after seeing your video, with a bet of cold, I most say the boat looks great See you next weekend 😉

[@Qbus]

Yet a great video. Looking forward for the rewiring of the boat :) Hello from Vanløse :)

[@Qbus]

These AC outlets are they marine specific?

[@SailLife]

Thanks! :) Me too :P Tænkte nok du var nogenlunde lokal med det navn ;)

[@chill214]

Looking forward to the next video. I've watched all your videos and you have done an excellent job on videos and work on the refit. I hope to one day do something similar to what you are doing/have done. I hope to cross paths one day with you. I'll buy you a drink. If you are ever in Louisiana I might be able to make a meet up.

[@alaingrignon4426]

Best varnish stripper I've ever used is called Ready Strip. It's from the states though, so not sure if you'll be able to find it in Europe. That said, it's amazing. No odour what so ever, non toxic, easy to remove and get rid of leftovers and it changes Color to tell you when it's ready to be removed. Actually, I'm in the middle of producing my own DIY vlog in which I'll be demonstrating how I used to strip off some old varnish myself. I'll send you a link when it's finally online.

[@ronharbin6678]

Thanks Mads - I was thinking it might be more appropriate to call your chart table area "Command Central". Perhaps you can start the engine on Oblix and just rev it up a little. With some good cavitation, you might be able to get enough of the growth off to avoid either of your stated options. Ron

[@aserta]

One old method to repair the rubbed off area would be to fill it up with color coded wood filler then simply paint the wood grain with acrylic paint. I restored a few cabinets using this method. You'd really have to look to see the repair. Worst i've fixed was a 1800s glass window cabinet where in time, the shelves were simply worn off by the repeated removal of items. Even wet stains, because some people think it's ok to just put it to dry there (nevermind the mold...).

[@fissh29]

locker looks awesome...you are a true craftsman and it shows...when you get to wiring please include wire sizes...would be helpful... favorable winds

[@ianmckay954]

Another enjoyable video Mads, been great to follow the refit. One aspect that concerned me while watching is that your DC switch panel is going to butt or collide with the headlining panels when they go back in, particularly on the left end. I expect it is me, my eyes, your camera or just none of my business but thought I'd mention. Keep on keeping on!

[@dallashallett3492]

Really enjoying the channel. I find it strange hearing about your Ice melting, I just did the anti fouling on the bottom of my Hunter 34 in temperatures ranging from 30 to 44 degrees. at least I had a cool swim after I finished. enjoy the cold water. best wishes from Sydney Australia.

[@tlaloclopez-watermann3499]

I really like your videos. I appreciate your thoroughness and the eloquent way you lead us through your projects.

[@rhirwin10]

Great video as always. Particularly like that you share your thinking about various approaches and then turn it into a very well executed end result. BTW - My wife says you are cute and hot, but she is not much for DIY sail things. In short, expect to fight off numerous mermaids when your bristol and well found vessel is well anchored in the trade winds of the Caribbean islands. ps: My quick survey on the other side of the Atlantic pond indicates that professional varnishers and marine refinishers dislike all types of chemical and solvent varnish strippers in favor of a heat gun and a good scraper (Sandvik!! )

[@BruceNdc]

I used Citristrip on my cabin doors with pretty good results - you just need to be sure to get it all off or the varnish will form a what I call a void around any residue. Good luck! Bruce

[@normanboyes4983]

Excellent work and a jolly good vid too.👍If you go diving on Obelix in this weather you will really only need small Speedos.😳

[@dgnikon]

Smooth transitions, especially at 6:50. you're just so natural around the camera, amazing!

[@Svdreamchaser]

Always a very helpful and entertaining video. I love the fact that you use hand tools to do trim work like that small support that was in the way of the DC panel. I must admit, I likely would have just trimmed off 3 cm and not carved the groove in the support :) The Panels look great !!

[@sailingvesselsouthernlady447]

Mads, I've used Citristrip with good results. The fumes are not dangerous.

[@SailLife]

I wonder if that is available over here :) I'll have a look :)

[@richhamel6810]

For your 12v panel, you could put a piano hinge on the aft side of the the locker so that panel can swing open to aft, without having a seam. You get full access to the back of the panel. Not sure if you would have clearance from the forward side of locker where your AC panels are.

[@mudcrutched1]

Pretty dang spiffy!

[@SailLife]

darn tootin! :D

[@cpobyrne1]

very Fargo!

[@TeamDive2795]

mudcrutched1 sound like a great t-shirt

[@1967rwm]

I'm guessing "dilly-dally" is also in repertoire somewhere.

[@olli_k]

That needs to be on a t-shirt...

[@SVWildHare]

Other than the 3 row DC (I have a 2 row with all the blanks filled) I have the same panels. love them and they have a lifetime warranty.. I have 2 shore inputs, one forward and one aft and a gen.

[@scottk9591]

I have an idea to be able to access the back of the DC distribution panel. Put a piano hinge on the top side of the back of the panel. And then use fastener clips on the inside bottom corners to secure it. That way you don't have a gap between the panels and you can still access the D.C. Distribution panel.

[@Vegvisir_Oceanis]

Picking up lots and lots of good information from you Mads. Doing almost the same thing with my 35 foot motorboat here in Norway. Piano hinges has been mentioned several times, but in my mind, cabinette hinges for such as kitchen cabinet doors would work better. IKEA has several versions that add clearance when opened flush-mounted surfaces

[@gladbjorn]

Awesome as always! You have made me think of getting a boat again... We shall see.

[@gladbjorn]

There should be a kitchen cabinet style hinge you can use on the right hand side and leave the hinge hidden.

[@Pat.Mustard]

I like this idea

[@jonas2000]

Mads, it's always so much fun to watch your videos. Thank you for sharing all these things! And yes, I voted for the speedo :D Greetings from Hamburg

[@briantotten6038]

Great episode as usual Mads! I'm not sure if your aware of this, but the March/April issue of Good Old Boat magazine had a nice write up about you; in the article about You Tube channels.

[@myblueocean2]

Hey Mads, I think you can get cupboard hinges that offset the door when you open them. Try Ikea. Maybe you can find something that works for the AC board (in combination with a press in lock).Too bad you're not closer, I'd do that prop for ya nice n comfy in my drysuit. Maybe you can find a diver. Ever think of Prop-Antifouling? Haven't tried it myself but heard you can get away with a clean prop for a few years even, if you use the prop regularly.

[@fdysopelkdfj]

I have an idea that meets your criteria using neodymium magnets. On all four corners drill a small hole for the magnets to counter sink. Then get yourself some round magnets the neodynamiam strong ones. Using six 10 west systems epoxy glue in place. leave an edge in the cobbled to grab and take the side off. I did this with my boat and was very pleased with it.

[@alansailing1387]

The timber work on your boat is really starting to look good. I like the contrast of the wood and the white. I think a lot of varnished wood is too much.

[@fla-bushcraftprepper941]

When I worked at a Corvette Dealership in Florida, we tried all kinds of liquid strippers and all of them were sub par. Then we tried an Aircraft Paint Stripper. It had a picture of a DC-10 or Boeing 747 on it. I used it to strip the Corvettes paint, the valve cover paint and their tire rims clear coat. Now I had to use it liberally, but it actually would lift the paint like the other products show in the pictures on their product cans. Don't you love that? You see it in the picture and hope it works like that, but it does not. Maybe they use Aircraft Paint Stripper for the product photos? Hope this helps Mads.

[@augustpendergast4478]

You could modify the D.C. Panel cabinet to be at an angle to the ac panel/computer monitor cabinet instead of perpendicular. Then you could install a piano hinge along the bottom of the D.C. Panel plywood and open the whole thing. Of course you'd need the depth for the chart table lid to open and the depth for the D.C. Panel. You'd also need clearance for the parts of the ac selector and ac panel that protrude beyond the face of the plywood.

[@gcancio]

I think the terminal blocks is a great idea. You would never need to have access to the back of the panel, and you could label those blocks and it would be easy to troubleshoot any problems you might have in the future. One thought is, and this has always been a general rule for electrician, splices will always be the weakest link in any electrical circuit. Just food for thought. I will try to join you on 4/2/2017. Thanks.

[@sheldontaylor82]

Another great video Mads!! I'm loving how the aft cabin chart table area is coming along, it's going to look fantastic once all the varnishing is done and the instrument panels and monitor are in place. You're giving me some ideas for my yacht ;-)

[@robertgarbe6348]

Haven't watched for about a year and just binged to catch up, whew. I would add to your earlier video on engine room insulation that a company called "soundproof cow" has some composite sound barrier/absorption products that are very very good. In particular the QUIET BARRIER™ SPECIALTY COMPOSITE W/PSA is very good and easy to cut and install. Don't know if you can find it in Denmark tho. You need a composite material with both absorption and barrier properties to quiet that Volvo diesel. Keep up the good work.

[@timlamarre8680]

You need quick access, similar to that of the screen, to the back of that panel. Find a way to get the hinge in there with some clever covering trim? Really enjoyed the video. Thank you for the info.

[@westervillegolfcenter5419]

You could still use the hinge on the bottom and hide the right side cut by attaching a flat piece of teak molding ( 1/2 in) adhered to the door side only.

[@TheSciFiEngineer]

How about mounting the low volt panel on some drawer slides? You could slide the unit forward for service and clip it back to lock the slides. A little lateral thinking but it would be a good solution. Very much enjoying the series, the detail is just great, good luck.

[@ekner]

Straighten out the leaning part of the locker and you can put the hinge and seam right in the corner. That should hide it perfectly and be physically possible to pull off.

[@albertasailor8452]

The plate around the HV receptacles would be an escutcheon plate. To turn the LV panel board into a hinged panel, would a pair of rising butt hinges laid on their side along the bottom of the panel swing the panel left enough as they open to clear the HV panel switch handles? If the hinge pins are tight enough, they would hold the bottom securely too. A latch or two of some kind along the top would hold it securely with chains restricting how much it can drop.

[@TheVIndings]

Nice progress in the aft cabin i see ... looks good, - make sure to get your little swim on cam as well ;)

[@markbernier8434]

The 220v box is just a surface mount receptacle box. I would call it a "triple gang" box but that is probably slang. Consider using some piano hinge on the right side of the DC panel and make the whole face open like a door. That might make it easier to wire any other instruments below the panel. I hope you have considered the possibility of RF interference between the AC panel and the SSB radio that I assume will be near by and for that matter the computer monitor.

[@SailLife]

Thanks but Someday Sailor beat you to it :) I'm glad I've learned a new word :) I haven't given much taught to RF interference. The old setup had AC and DC crammed together right next to the SSB. That seemed to work OK. Fingers crossed! :)

[@Pat.Mustard]

You should be fine with a good quality coaxial cable running to your radio. I've got my SSB running past an AC power board in my home and I have no issue with RF interference.

[@USMCCGAGNG]

The AC outlet box in English? No idea since your European electrical equipment is from Mars. 😁 Why can't ya'all just use ours since they're so much better, smaller, easier? And while you're at it y'all should speak English while you're at it. It's so much easier! Just kidding. As I've said before your English is great (better than many Americans) and as always your work is impeccable and your production techniques MUCH appreciated! See you again soon. I'd go see you in NYC but people (crowds) make me nervous so I'll stay home. Wish you'd visit me. 😁🇺🇸

[@TheDomin8rr]

I think that hinge like you fabricated for 22" monitor would be best solution for accessing back of A/C distribution panel innards as well.

[@davidmoran3659]

As always - a great video. Thank you. Things are really starting to come together. Well done.

[@Pat.Mustard]

Thanks again for sharing another great video Mads. I look forward to watching them when I get up on Monday mornings. Have you considered leaving the damaged door as is? I think it would add character to the boat and you could lay up some clear epoxy to help with water proofing.

[@SVKajsa]

First! Now I watch the video. :-) Nice job on the panel layout. I think you should take a quick swim to clean the prop.

[@SailLife]

Hehe, I hope you enjoyed the video :)

[@2CabrasLocas]

Holy cow there are a LOT of angles going on in that little room! :D Looking good though.

[@SailSmileReDo]

Jreat job, as always ))) It started looking a lot better already. Looking forward to your final results. Good luck!

[@leifpettersson4509]

Hi Mads, Thanks for a great and interesting video as usual! I would probably have used the 'prime' space where you currently have placed the 'source selector' and 'ac panel' for items which provide dynamic information.. Examples: Displays for Sonar, Wind & boat speed, fuel gage, VHF etc. Just a thought :-) Cheers // Leif

[@SailLife]

Hi Leif :) All of that information will be available on the monitor, a bulkhead mounted tablet and any phone/tablet connected the wifi network aboard the boat :) As a backup there will be a single GMI 20 under the DC panel :) All the best, Mads

[@MatthewBoothPhotographer]

Paramose. Knarly stuff for removing paint & varnish. I think it's professional use only but you may be able to get hold of some but you'll need lots of protective clothing. It's at least 5x stronger than nitromors.

[@arcanus55]

Dude, don't worry about the seam. Make the back of the panel accessible, you will thank yourself many times over later on.

[@nickjohnson5291]

i've used "citristrip" gel in the past when refinishing gunstocks. Smells like orange (more or less) and isn't too unpleasant. worked well.

[@nsmnsm8889]

Hi. Good to See your progress on the Athena. My Advice for you for that you don't cut that front face is one of the two. 1 you put a 5 or 6.inch oval Speaker on the left Side of that Box. 2 choice is to put a Exes removable cover instead of same spot. Me Would go for a Speaker . Good job. Nick New York.

[@wigglewoo3]

Yes, you can put a piano hinge on the bottom of the panel itself.

[@chesapeakesailingadventure870]

If you were to put a piano hinge on the back/bottom of tour DC Panel would the angle on its forward edge allow it to clear the selector and AC panel as it folded down like a table? Second thought, what about a piano hinge at the forward edge? It would swing like a door but wouldn't swing level. On the bright side of that it would hold itself open as you wire or investigate issues in the future. I really enjoy watching your work! It has helped me in my refit. The ziplock bag for thickened epoxy was genius.

[@khyvich]

As for hiding the seam, you could affix a thin 1" or 2.5cm strip of trim to the panel side. When it closes it will cover the seam. Using the same trim around the other panels even sparingly will remove any questions about why it is there. I wish I had a picture to show you but just think about it and let me know if you have any questions.

[@DirkHerrling]

You could cut that line you mentioned, but hide it with some overlapping frame. That would destroy the nice look of the board holding the AC distribution panel, but would be nicer to look at than a simple cut. Best wishes from Northern Germany!

[@briantotten6038]

I just watched Christian Williams latest video, and he hinged the bottom of the electrical panel itself. So then he just had two unscrew two top screws to gain access to the wiring.

[@Barbaria_Sailing]

Hi Mads and thanks for excellent videos. Have you considered whether you can mount the panel on sliding rails? That way you only need to loosen the screws and slide the panel out. Greeting Tom V.

[@Every_Day_Adventure]

looks like that one piece that covers the shore power connection has a drip/run in it post varnishing. ;)

[@ptroman1]

For access behind the panel have you thought of a piano hinge on the left side on the inside so it folds out towards your left side? BTW keep up the great work.

[@kellygreene4573]

Looks good from South Dakota!

[@SailLife]

Thanks! :)

[@somedaysailor7913]

That would be a gang box. in your example a 3 gang box :) Looking good!

[@SailLife]

Thanks! I've learned a new word :)

[@rogerpickering3751]

Great video , I had the same problem on my refit regarding the doors , was not happy with scarfing in new veneer. If it is fairly central, why not cut a ventilation hole in its place and then cover it over with a metal or plastic vent ? , or even a premade teak louvre vent , you can't have to much ventilation! . I also fitted Blue Sea equipment on board my boat Florence May a Twister 28 , with good results, are you going to fit "buzz bars " behind , to keep the wires neat and professional looking ? . Look forward to the next one

[@colinbagshaw1796]

Could you piano hinge the whole front panel from the right hand vertical side and turn buckle the panel shut. Then you could open it like a cupboard for wiring and the harness could be passed near the hinge into the supply area so not any extra length needed opening and closing?

[@SailLife]

That is an option! I hadn't thought about that :) Thanks!

[@allynonderdonk7577]

YOU COULD SCREW THE PIANO HINGE DIRECTLY TO THE PANEL. THEN PUT A FEW WING NUTS IN TO HOLD IT UP! rePEAT!

[@kevinpickens8085]

I would think the left side would make more sense as the right side isn't actually vertical. As long as the panel swinging would clear the AC panels. Or, you could hinge the bottom panel. That would give you less access, but it wouldn't interact with the AC panels.

[@leoinswlondon]

I am completely devastated because I did not manage to see the Single Board Computer. I don't think I can wait any longer.. ;-)

[@yottaforce]

Perhaps you could install the DC distribution panel using finger screws and use some zip-ties to prevent stress to the wires.

[@jimmyjimjimmyjimjimjimjim4437]

I use Jasco paint or epoxy remover here in the States. Works great but it's fumey and messy. Also, most removers use wax in their formula, so you have to be very careful to remove all of it when you clean up, otherwise you may get "fisheye" in your varnish coat.

[@mazdarx7887]

Angry pixies , hehehe , been watchin AvE , careful not to let the smoke out, keep your d**k in a vice. You should invest some time in learning to scuba, get a ultralight dry suit, and dive gear. maybe consider a portable hookah system for your boat. The Ultralight dry suit allows you to dive in all water temperatures, colder water , more clothing on underneath, warmer water, less clothing. No need to haul out to clean bottom. Put the hookah in your dingy and go dive for some tasty meals when anchored in nice coves.

[@PyeGuySailing]

I know it's an illusion due to the angle of the cabin top, but the panel looks wonky. I wonder how you will counter the illusion, or if you will. It's coming along nicely.

[@YMoonsterY]

This project is so nice

[@mitiempo1000]

I've been following your refit closely. I don't see a main AC breaker - what will you be using for main AC protection? Also I believe you should hinge the DC panel. They are tough to wire without good rear access. Without rear access after wiring the panel is pushed back for installation and the excess wire is messy. I wouldn't worry about the gap if it is hinged. Brian Marine electrician in Victoria B.C.

[@raymtl8892]

Great video as usual Mads but for Pete's sakes put on some eye protection when cutting wood!

[@theoldwizard998]

"Box thingy" I think translate to "surface mount, modular electrical box". In the US we don't have modular electrical outlets, or at least they are not common.