Sail Life - Working on the new rudder aka I'm a big dumb dumb ;)

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Thank you Mads for the new rudder video. Don't beat yourself up for getting the slow cure 3M 5200. The labels are usually so close to looking the same if you don't read the whole description you really can't tell which one you are ordering. Take care and looking forward to the foam pour.

[@rickhaass1133]

Not sure if it matters, but you might want to consider subtracting the volume of the metal rutter shaft when calculating the amount of needed foam. Good luck with the foaming project - very interested to see how that works out for you.

[@dormanshaw2173]

I came here just to make that comment

[@Garryck-1]

Instructions for the foam say to use the volume plus add 10% to ensure it's more than enough.. so the metal inside just counts towards the 10%, I'm thinking.

[@rickhaass1133]

@@Garryck-1 Between the mass of the metal and the fact that he took his measurements off of the mold and not the actual shells, I wouldn't be surprised if he didn't calculate twice what he needs. Using the mold will also not account for the thickness of his glass on the shells.

[@Garryck-1]

@@rickhaass1133 - If you check, he mentioned that he put the shell back into the mold to give it some support, *then* poured the sand into the shell. This is clearly visible in the video.

[@rickhaass1133]

@@Garryck-1 Good catch JAFO, I would still bet that the tube will reduce by 20%... apparently per the comment above you are supposed to be 10% over so, my guess is he will be spot on!!!

[@JjCoronet]

As an architect who has designed alot of strange concrete structures i know from experience getting air pockets out is very important, the way to do this is vibration, can i suggest you invest in a foot massage machine place the rudder on it vibrating while pouring in the liquid into the rudder shell this will dissipate the air pockets. Once an air pocket is formed it won’t move unless it is forced which is why vibration works so well, good luck with your endeavours

[@smokindauberdoo4204]

Jj Coronet great idea /a vibrating sander might work also :-')

[@opcn18]

Some foams will be destroyed by vibration before they set up. The goal is to have a lot of teeny tiny voids, just no big ones resulting from air entrapment in a part of the mold that product can't flow in to (which vibration probably wouldn't fix).

[@JjCoronet]

Emerson White the liquid goes in as none foam only once the heat reaction takes place does it expand so using a vibration device as its poured in won’t hurt the process

[@martyhandley4456]

Jj Coronet but I’ve seen that’s only true if u mix it cooler than hotter.....hotter mixes, higher amounts of catalyst tend to foam faster....but we did vibration with a sawzall with no blade and only when we noticed it was leaving a void....backlighting it........but yes too much vibration can crash a hot mix......reducing its effectiveness.

[@aserta]

I agree with Coronet here, vibration is key, and the compound isn't affected by vibration at the pour stage. I've done a few fiberglass+foam shells for repairs in the past and i got away with it on the cheap using my oscillating sander and a bag of bolts taped off-center.

[@paulcollins9397]

The large metal plates inside the rudder will allow uneven foam expansion. The underside foam will reach the tops of the plates before the foam expanding above the plates will, trapping air, if laying on its side, tilted & angled. Good for a bronze pour, not foam. Stand it upright, lean it over slightly so the trailing edge upper corners are high. Drill vent holes at both upper corners & pour it all in quick. Be ready to plug the lower vent with a wooden dowel when foam comes out. Don’t plug the upper vent.

[@mitfreundlichengrussen1234]

Ta daaaa - cliffhanger after cliffhanger - you are a true master of a nervous making kind. Thx a lot for the suspense and the good mood you are spreading around the globe..

[@jameslake8117]

Look forward to your videos every Sunday. Thank you for taking the time and effort to produce them.

[@miketucker3571]

A bit off topic but, when you get ready to plumb you diesel, you might consider FASS diesel fuel pump and filter system. I added one on my diesel truck and I love it. You can even add a Raycor water filter to it for better water separation. It also recirculates the filtered diesel back to the tank while in use.

[@kevintravis2078]

Interesting contrast in rudder manufacture as we had to rebuild our polyester water soaked rudder but elected to use solid closed cell foam to form the shape, so did not need to inject foam. We did not have the same metal internals as our rudder attaches to the stern and requires wooden architecture on the top for the tiller. The closed cell and epoxy has ment the rudder has not absorbed water even when an edge was damaged. It is now 10 years old and going strong.

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

Nice! Enjoying the ride!

[@wmm6563]

You just need brushes in the angle grinder. The really old (good) grinders used to come with a spare set of brushes in the plastic case...but because the old (good) grinders hardly ever wear out, most people lose the brushes...and the case.

[@buffettfanman]

Wm M Agreed! Here in Houston Makita has a service location for their tools and you can pick up the brushes at those locations if you would like to do it yourself!

[@_bodgie]

I agree too, depending on how worn the brushes are the armature may be badly worn so new brushes may not last as long. It certainly won't hurt to look and see if that's the problem as having multiple grinders is very handy.

[@iyurtygaming8588]

Get a battery makita brushless one, its only option I think

[@Cabsorx]

I've involentarily started saying goodmorning in the 'Sail Life Mads' voice at work. I may or may not be bingewatching. #newtothechannel #lovingit #dane

[@davebrown7321]

still loving your video's mate keep up the awesome content!

[@southjerseysound7340]

5200 is amazing stuff. I used to build high performance boats and laid a deck on Friday before quitting time. Well I assumed my partner who was inside had bolted it together and went home. Come Monday I picked the boat up with the gantry and moved it to fit out to finish rigging the motors. Well at lunch my partner apologized for leaving bolting the hull/deck joint together to me. Needless to say my jaw hit the floor when I realized I hoisted the boat by it's lifting eye and rear cleats being held together by just 5200 :-D

[@SailLife]

Yikes 😬 That's a cool story 🙂

[@geraldgerald6331]

Mads, This rudder project is what really got me excited about your channel. Went back and binge watched all you prior videos on Athena. Can’t wait for the foam pour. Please next week....oh as suggested by another, you might subtract the volume of the rudder stock. BTW, I think making the new mold was well worth it.

[@michaelnelson226]

You’re amazing. My favorite KZbin channel. Thank you!!

[@williamsetzer9898]

Mads, Great video and great progress! Patience is a virtue and will pay off in the long run. Typically slow cure is the better way to go in terms of any setting type compound. Slow cure is more stable, stronger and lasts longer. So, a little patience will pay off in the long run and you have peace of mind knowing the slow cure will make a better, longer lasting seal.

[@bill4nier]

Excited to see how the project will turn out! I think it will be pretty spiffy! 👍👍😊 Thanks for sharing.

[@newfization]

I would check the brushes before throwing out the angle grinder. Your old friend may get a new lease on life.

[@PushyFierce]

Have you thought about installing a drain plug in the rudder? Maybe in your case you aren't pulling the boat enough to put it to use. I find it handy here in Canada, but we store it on the hard all winter.

[@lkm5462]

Still think you should have filled it from the top. Have it verticle and with some high intensity lighting you might be able to see the fill.. just a thought. Still a nice vid, fingers crossed

[@odc43054]

Exactly. Mads - gravity will be your friend. Drill two large holes in the top of the rudder, one for foam going in and the other for air coming out. If you fill it at a slow pace and vibrate, all the air should come out. Spreading the trailing edge and trying to get foam in and air out will be a huge pain. You could always cut out some rudder stock shapes and use them on the outside to hold/brace the halves if you are worried about deformation of the rudder shape. Way too easy to just glass over a couple holes in the top of the rudder after it's all cured.

[@mikeflear5431]

I have to agree with Dave,trying to split the back to pour in the foam is a bad idea. Seal the whole rudder, drill two holes at the top, brace it vertical and pour in foam. Any extra foam will expand out the top two holes

[@justDIY]

Fantastic progress sir! Can't wait to see the foam pour next week.

[@sailingeden9866]

The fiberglass modifications that you're making are actually making it stronger than if it had come out of the mold perfectly. Make sure you take into account the volume displaced by the rudder.

[@Garryck-1]

Instructions for the foam say to use the volume plus add 10% to ensure it's more than enough.. so the metal inside just counts towards the 10%, I'm thinking.

[@sailingeden9866]

@@Garryck-1 Thanks for the info.

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

You can bring Mr. Angle Grinder back from the dead. Just replace the brushes. Oh the humanity!

[@WreckDiver99]

My thoughts at first, but it sounds like he toasted a bearing too, maybe shredded some teeth. Might be worth a quick look. Worse comes to worse see what it costs to ship to the Empire of Dirt and have AvE berate it for a while...LOL

[@lenscap8925]

See if Mr. Angle Grinder just needs a set of brushes to continue the "glorious glorious sanding..." As a preventive maintenance on the "new" angle grinder, repack the gear case with new grease and check the brushes it it...sand on!

[@ot0m0t0]

Plus 1 on that. Unless its brushless :) In that case its...hopeless.

[@billiondollardan]

9:45 was a very cool point in the video!. It's the first chance we've had to actually see both halves together and the result is going to be soooooo good!

[@OvertravelX]

I'm remodeling our guest bathroom this week. Every time I'm tempted to half-ass something, I channel my inner Mads and push through. Thanks for the example. Although if Mads had seen what I've seen, he might have ripped out all of the wiring in the house and started from scratch.

[@billmadden7407]

I would suggest warming the 5200 up about 10C to 31C, but that rudder stock is a mighty heat sink. 5 day cure is at 21C. 31C should cut that by half or quarter.

[@dancartier561]

Sorry to hear about Mr Angel grinder. Hopefully he can be rebuilt. Been there, done that with 5200, your not the only one. I have built a couple rudders, Very nice job you are doing. I would recommend having it vertical and with all the edges epoxy taped together, this will help hold the shape. I would insert foam on your rudder at the in two places : lower spot , top. flat spot , forward edge, of the lower section ( just below the lower attachment). Then. add foam from the top on both sides of stainless flat plates. Also can your move the rudder around to get foam into corners. Can the epoxy foam go in more than one pour, in case there is a void? I hope all goes well , all the best. Dan S/V Redundant

[@AzimuthAviation]

Proper use of 3M 5200. Also known a "F the next guy!" :D

[@tomharrell1954]

Great job

[@gregm2074]

Did u try replacing the brushes for the electric motor in the old Makita grinder?

[@Uukrul1]

It may have been mentioned below, but you should consider adhering the flange to the inside of your rudder before you seal it up with foam. this will prevent your rudder flange from wiggling inside causing it to prematurely break through the side of your beautiful rudder.

[@CheersWarren]

5200 also comes in self-leveling versions too which is good in the right applications like horizontal seams , just FYI. Cheers Warren

[@tombarker3608]

The rudder is looking great. The inner structure is spiffy. Keep on keeping on. Hi Ava.

[@geekdomo]

RIP Mr Anglegrinder

[@Dvseire]

Hello Mads, just wondering if you would consider doing a foam test to check the expansion rate before pouring the rudder, because now you have time to do so and extra foam by your calculations. Perhaps using a plastic container of a known volume, say 10 litres and trying to fill it accurately to a point of five litres based on your calculations of foam required to fill volume. Regards, Dave.

[@Garryck-1]

Mads already did those tests in an earlier video.

[@Dvseire]

@@Garryck-1 Thank You, I obviously haven't been keeping up and watching every video lately so, lol! :-)

[@NortyNige]

Ha, snowing! This last week on the hard working on my yacht fixing some blisters, filling in some holes etc in 28-30 degrees Celsius temperature with wind gusts up to 20 knots blowing though the yard. Then trying to mix Q-cells with epoxy in those conditions. Oh to be working inside. The tropics will open your eyes to a whole new level of horror where yacht maintenance is concerned. Enjoy the snow. ;-) Maximum temp inside the yacht over christmas while I was away (Cyclone season) hit 70 degrees Celsius. Are your eyes spinning in your head yet. Love the show keep up the good work.

[@larslange5482]

Hi,would it not be better if you drilled a hole at the lowest part of the rudder and a bigger hole at the highest point, then pump the foam through the lower end. BTW love your vids, plus the few scenery of my old country which my family left in 1973 to move to Australia. I was 11 at the time.

[@terrycavender]

Mister Angle Grinder is not dead, he just needs to have his power restored. Take him down to the Dwarves and have an elder restore it's magical runes. Figured being a Dane, you would have known to do that.... 😏

[@terrycavender]

@@philgray3443 that was your mistake, everyone knows that trolls are shite at that kind of work, your best bet is dwarves.

[@TheDecguy]

One other thing about 5200, bees love it. Years ago I recaulked the deck seams on a 60ft tug boat with 5200. I know now that 5200 isn’t the right thing to caulk a deck with but this was many years ago. The point of the story is that whatever VOC 5200 releases when curing attracted hundreds of bees that then landed in the wet 5200, basically committing mass suicide. It made a mess of the deck seams and more importantly killed the majority of the bees that landed in it. It was many years ago now but it still bothers me.

[@ruperthartop7202]

Great video thanks

[@almath9987]

Thanks mads sure this will be one speiffe rudder next week👍⛵🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@jeanhawken4482]

Wow never thought I would see the day when the Mikita angle grinder would give up.

[@PCStuart1]

Mads, just fit a new set of brushes into the grinder, clean the interior while your at it. Take care.

[@evilfluff6634]

Don’t forget to count the thickness of the fiber glass shell to the mold inside size. But if the foam doesn’t explain it’s okay But if it does and you put to much you can miss shape it or crack it. But you can mix half of what you think you need added it to the rudder let cure and top off.

[@6226superhurricane]

your makita isn't stuffed yet it just needs brushes. amazing they lasted 10 years. they only last 6-12 months on mine grinding steel mostly.

[@Bikerbob59]

Interesting stuff. Cheers from Western Canada.

[@torstenbehrendt870]

I haven't seen you putting epoxy on the edges of the rudder-halfes. Nor have I seen you sanding the surface where you put the glas on. Did you?

[@todmills]

I was wondering if cutting the bottom tip of your shell off, then standing it upside down on end slightly tipped with the leading edge down since that's where the "notches" are, and pouring the foam in, then capping again with the tip wouldn't pretty much entirely eliminate the risk of an entrapped air pocket.

[@jaycotty]

Nothing last for ever, the motor brushes worn out, replace them and it should be good as new again.

[@rethinkscience8454]

jaycotty - no burnt commutator winding - motor poling

[@EL90291]

No brush, mechanical failure

[@gregoriobelmonte8190]

A very good and strong adhesive is spabond 345 from Gurit. 2 compound epoxy. It’s flexible and it cures in about 12 hours. I’ve used it for a lot of stuff, including the joint between the deck and the hull. You should try it.

[@SailingWithVampires]

Mads, I have never heard you say “Less Spiffy”

[@scotthedderich778]

Don’t forget to subtract the volume of the metal rudder plate!

[@Garryck-1]

Instructions for the foam say to use the volume plus add 10% to ensure it's more than enough.. so the metal inside just counts towards the 10%, I'm thinking.

[@craigmunday3707]

Looks like there will also be a high spot on the lower half of the rudder

[@henrymorgan3982]

I was wondering why the 5200 was black. Hey, I learned something today!! Thank you!

[@Stepclimb]

It also comes in white.

[@nildefonsop]

Send the unit to AVE ! He loves to dig in to good tools, plus he has tons of viewers that would love your channel

[@BettySwollocks13]

Enjoyable vlog and a really nice guy, but it can be so painful to watch at times, I find myself shouting at my screen, 'get on with it man' ! :D

[@Rspri10104]

I have made the same 5200 mistake. What a pain in the rump for sure.

[@asdfdfggfd]

I was watching a documentary about composite construction, and vacuum infusion fiberglass has a 30% QC failure rate, so you really shouldn't worry about that failure, it is normal in fiberglass infusion.

[@bastian9945]

if the shaft is still spinning freely like it was before hence its not blocked by a dusty bearing or something like that... it might be the coal contacts. You can replace these very easily because these are wear items they can even be sourced from makita i think.

[@aserta]

You need new brushes. IF it makes sound it's either the brushes or the bearings. Considering you mostly grind against a surface with it, it's very likely just the brushes. Easy fix for under 2 3 doll hairs depending on where you get your brushes (i'd prolly go with the reputable brand, lasts longer, proper brush compound etc.).

[@mikecarnivale7304]

You should send that angle grinder to AVE. curious to see if he can bring it back from the dead and what actually failed

[@zoki.to974]

i bet that new pair of brushes will make it alive again

[@wdinns]

@@zoki.to974 after heavy use, the brushes wear, and also push/smear copper from the armature, across the mica insulation plates, in rebuilding old generators, you had to lathe the area where the brushes ride, and also under cut the mica to "break" the current connections,

[@zoki.to974]

@@wdinns understood. doable with some sand paper, drill press or just secured hand drill and fine triangle file. as matter of fact, i have rioby drill just gave up on me after 8 years. same symptoms. will try my advice :)

[@mikecarnivale7304]

@@zoki.to974 I bet you're right. It's probably something he can do himself. I just like when two KZbin channels mesh together. Haha. Plus I would love to see what 10 years of hard work does to a Makita.

[@ulbuilder]

I doubt brushes will help. That is the sound of shorted windings and would also explain the horrible smell of burning insulation.

[@timlewis840]

I truly enjoy your videos. You should send your old Mr Angle grinder to one of the restoration guys on KZbin, I like to watch them restore things like that.

[@opcn18]

This isn't a high stakes issue for you, but for everyone else, it's important to note that 5200 is an amazingly effective long term adhesive and a pretty mediocre sealing compound. Things will be held incredibly tightly for 15-20 decades after they start to leak.

[@thomaspaccione8237]

All Mr. Anglegrinder needs is some new brushes.

[@exploreseafaring]

Send the grinder to one of the restoration channels as a cross over. You'll get it back good as new and probably get some new viewers.

[@Martin-yl5zb]

When curing 5200... make sure ambient air humidity is high enough. Can be a problem at lower temps.

[@suckerfree23]

In the volume measurement of the rudder (using sand), did you remember to subtract the volume of the stainless steel insert?

[@MrDonutManJr]

Hej Mads! Remember to subtract the volume of the rudder stock! Given its shape that should be doable.

[@charlescurtius2261]

AGGG another week waiting :)

[@stevecoster322]

Hiya, what a great video, thank you. I'm told the slow cure 5200 is stronger, don't know if it's true but I hope so. Real excitement growing now as you move towards the great moment... Then... Tune in same time next week for the next thrilling instalment!!! Mads you've learnt this film business too well, lol. Cliff hangers are us .com Great news about the May 4th dodger even the right date..., Take care till next week. Sorry, May the 4th be with you!

[@unicolc1]

Hi Tom, have you consider the use of sekaflex instead of the 5200?

[@petervigil3822]

Probably a stupid question, but won't the foam be incredibly buoyant. Presumably the rudder stock will offset some or all of that, but wouldn't it be better to use a more buoyant neutral filler?

[@JjCoronet]

Just noticed a rudder builder using compressed air to compact the foam injection process

[@milt7348]

I feel your pain, been there done that. Oh well next week.

[@garyflippin1690]

Who is going to finish first SV Seeker or Athena? Mads has much more patience than I.

[@dirtroadsailing6418]

They'll launch at the same time, cross paths a few months later, collide and both sink starting a muilti-year repair process.

[@svbarryduckworth628]

Wondering why you didn't 12:1 bevel the rudder seam. Hopefully you don't build up the radius around the shaft to the point so that it doesn't clear the skeg and/or hull mating on the opposite side of the clearance fitment.

[@DuffyF56]

What about accounting for the volume occupied by the rudder stock and "wings" (Plates)?

[@MrJerryheffer]

Could you seal the rudder and then use the vacuum pump to to put the foam in that would sort the air pocket worry ?

[@zoki.to974]

cannot do that. if attempt to create vacuum in the vacuum bag, shelfs will collapse and most likely edges will crush. if attempt to build vacuum chamber big enough to fit a rudder, then whole chamber will fill up with foam. also foam its self will behave in who knows what weird manner when introduced to the vacuum. dont forget, foam comes in liquid form then start to BUBBLE :)

[@MrJerryheffer]

@@zoki.to974 I didn't mean to keep it under vacuum, perhaps I didn't explain myself very well, but to draw it through when in liquid form and then let it foam naturally.

[@zoki.to974]

@@MrJerryheffer i get it. not creating the vacuum, then release the foam as he did with epoxy, but vacuum pump to pull the foam from the opposite end/bottom simultaneously till removes the air on other end/top. if thats your thinking i see its doable. just dont know if foam has to fill whole rudder or like 3/4 of it so 1/4 stays as expansion space....

[@MrJerryheffer]

@@zoki.to974 Yes that was my thinking.

[@cv12steve74]

Pour a bit of foam into the 5200 waste cup to see how they interact.

[@cafriedrichsen]

Hej Mads, fik lige tanke ! de to 'vinger' der er på ror akslen får de direkte forbindelse med ror skallerne, eller kun skummen, det er ikke sikkert det betyder noget, da det er store flader, men jeg tænkte at skummen med tiden ville blive trykket i stykker, og give slup i roret, men jeg har ingen ide om hvor stærk skummen er, Bare lige en tanke !!

[@JCAJCA3]

Thanks Mad very good video! GOD bless. JC

[@azu2knoll]

Does 5200 prevent paint from sticking? Might be tricky when you paint the rudder.

[@Stepclimb]

5200 can be sanded and painted

[@BaronWeber1]

Ok, next week the rudder pour for sure?

[@stephenrankin2078]

Mads, to help cure the 5200 spray it sparingly water Doing this quickens the cure time

[@Stepclimb]

Yes, 5200 cures faster in warm and humid environments.

[@dww0013]

Great job as always!!👍

[@mikehartmann5187]

I with the people saying send the Makita to the Mad Canadian AvE and let him have at it.

[@Nicholas2011ist]

Change the brushes in the grinder

[@peterihre9373]

Just wondering, why not use 5200 around all edges of the rudder halfs?

[@erubeyserrano9100]

Hi mads, Great video like always... I see people mentioned brushes for grinder, well, check the ball bearing.. If you can NOT find the right size, try putting two together to fit. It works by my experience. In airplane paint maintenance, sanders, grinder etc. we use them a lot. Anyhow, keep up the great work.

[@geoffreyscottcornett9879]

WAIT!!!!!! don't forget to subtract the volume of the metal part of the rudder when calculating the fill volume!!!!

[@Garryck-1]

Instructions for the foam say to use the volume plus add 10% to ensure it's more than enough.. so the metal inside just counts towards the 10%, I'm thinking.

[@UweBehrendt]

thanks

[@peacekeepermoe]

I think Mads enjoys the repairs more than he does sailing, someone needs to let him know that this is what his passion is, NOT sailing lol xD

[@wdinns]

are you going to leave the very sharp spear points on your dodger window trim-- or are you going to change them to s rounded radius ?

[@fargley001]

anglegrinder: brushes?

[@olliesata]

Why not laminate and bond the rudder stock to the other half, when it is possible before closing the rudder. That way a possible damage to the rudder could maybe just peel off the other half and leave the rudder working mostly.

[@GeorgiaSlayrz]

FYI - next time you want to bond styrofoam try a hot glue gun. The hot glue sticks are easy to use, cheap, and bond super well.

[@SailLife]

Thanks :) I'll remember that but a hot glue gun is one of the very few tools I don't own :)

[@gavinhirt5231]

Send Mr angle grinder to AvE for a post op on it lol

[@buffettfanman]

How hard is it to get that stuff off your fingers or hands?

[@SailLife]

I can tell you it sticks very well to the disposal gloves I use ;)

[@drwindsurf]

I love the 5200 PSA :) I hate working with 5200 (it is so sticky and seems to get everywhere) and I hate it when I need to remove something that someone has inappropriately "secured" with 5200...but when you need to adhere something permanently and need flexibility (like a deck/hull joint) it is amazing. Thank you for another amazing video :)

[@Stepclimb]

I have found the only thing that works well with removing polyurethanes like 5200 is “Marine Formula” by the DeBond company. One simply scratches the cured 5200 with a knife and sprays Marine Formula. After waiting about 15 min, the 5200 gets soft and crumbly. It also works at softening polysulfide adhesive-sealants such as Pro-seal.

[@drwindsurf]

@@Stepclimb That is awesome! Thank you :)