DC AIR CON FAIL//DC AirCon Part 2-Episode 147

[@craigscoullar564]

Thai is one amazing dude..he's missed his calling..he has a wealth of boat savie and a greater teacher and presenter

[@oldk4tz]

i would recommend an external tint by 3m that rejects IR and UV this will help lower your heat ingress.

[@peggykm4977]

Yes! I put it on my Tesla roof (all glass) and windows in Florida - helps a lot but pricy

[@spaRTan3246]

Compared to the cost of replacing a boat window it‘s peanuts. It might even reduce the (high) chance of getting cracks in the windows due to extreme heat differences (talk sunlight and water…). 👍

[@mikeferguson2828]

I ran the fresh water hose through mine DC units to charge to the correct weight of Gas Ty. It got very hot during the gassing phase. One it had the required volume of gas I then ran the normal 24v in my case pump. My luck is the aircon is under our bed so the head is about 0,5m

[@bretesmeier8652]

Try adding a booster pump. That is how we had one of our systems on Navy ships. Basically two pumps in a the line.

[@sudosu4133]

Have been following you for 2 years now. Always enjoyed them, but the videos you do now are pure gold. Thank you for your excellent work and sharing it!

[@ChrisHarding-lk3jj]

You should check out the bosch coolant pumps, I have used them for years for circulation of coolant through heat exchangers on turbocharged and supercharged engine applications. They are rated for 30,000 hours of operation and they aren't ridiculously expensive and they are available in a variety of voltages. It would be better to have individual pumps for each unit which gives you some redundancy. The smallest bosch pump is rated at 5gpm. I wouldn't think those air conditioning units heat exchangers would be any more restrictive than an intercooler. Those pumps are effective for cooling the intake charge air at 75 psi of boost on a 5000hp engine.

[@michaelm2683]

i certainly wouldn't use a single pump to power all my A/Cs, a boat is all about eliminating single point of failure. The beauty of having multiple of the exact same item (pumps, bilge circulation, AC units, etc) is the redundancy offered and carrying a single backup. In an emergency you could even swap the whole AC units if on a long voyage, if for example your master suite AC went out and the guest AC was the same.

[@chadclark5204]

You may need larger diameter line on discharge side to overcome the friction loss in the line.

[@hansjensen7823]

Every 90 also reduces your pressure and volume.

[@matthewtatarian147]

You need a smaller pump. The line and head are causing cavitation

[@jasonsharpley7395]

Just a heads up Be careful using those pvc ball valves. I have a salt water aquarium and after 12 months they are pretty much seized and can’t turn them on and off. The salt water must do something to the internal ball

[@nickcooper14]

You may need a grundfos submersible pump with a 7meter head pressure. I use this on my septic system to push the liquid around our property. It’s been in the 14 years and counting. Pushing the grey water around through 1” pipes.

[@peggykm4977]

Sorry about the protracted a/c solution! Most comments are over my head, but seems like some good suggestions in there,,,,, good luck! We are gettin a cold front here in Fla on Friday- it might get down to 84 😱

[@to5msheppard]

Since I started watching you and I watch parlay revival in spirit animal, the technical stuff you guys need to know is amazing your air conditioning units and then setting it up hurts my brain. God bless you. I love that you can do it because it amazes me that you can do all the stuff that you need to to run a boat well done

[@stevenkorsontest]

I don't know your specs, but I have ran two pumps in series to get the performance I've needed. Also, as a rule, smaller hose will not improve flow. In hydraulic systems, pressure is created by the resistance to flow. Great information on AC units. Looking forward to seeing your results. s/v Salty Britches

[@valerieb.4912]

Ty, I am learning so much from you. Thank you.

[@gregstevens527]

Head is not just height difference. You have to include k factors for fittings and tubing. Smaller tubing will increase pressure but decrease flow always.

[@EdwardTilley]

Great video. We don't get near enough insight into the engineering, problem-solving, and frustration that goes into designing a really great efficient boat that does everything, so thanks for the insight. Efficient AC is the holy grail of boating in the tropics, and so it's very interesting to see you come up with a solution when the big companies fail at it so consistently. What do you think the % diff between your solution versus a Prestige (for example) Chiller solution will be?

[@petertratechaud7277]

Ty, not sure what the spec was on those pumps, but it sounds like you need a higher operating pressure pump. Maybe try out this from Northern Tool. WWB-06618. It's designed for sprayer applications.. which have high restriction nozzles.

[@philmorrow4080]

Doing your part to heat the world's sea water so as to cool your boat......😮😮

[@sambarrett4590]

Did you try putting those pumps in series? Might help overcome the restriction challenge.

[@GOTHAM21]

It's a heat pump.

[@rkstreeter]

I bought a seaflo water pump and found I had the same problem as you... they lied about the output! I ended up getting 492G/hr iwaki pump from defender

[@lahoozer6694]

6:56 had todo a reenactment? That cans already pierced lol.

[@gezac440]

with that amount of ac units maybe you should get a tank of 134

[@daveg4963]

Didn't see you purge the refrigerant lines.

[@spaRTan3246]

As much as I like overengineering things myself - building a solution for a problem occuring every 5 years (Barnacle buster) which itself needs service every 2 years (that plastic stuff and salt water really don‘t like each other) seems a bit out of context… 😜🤣

[@rodwilliams2782]

Gringos pumps is what I used on my ground source heat pump . Don't know if that will help

[@paratyshow]

👍✅🏝 Great content, tks for sharing!

[@dalesmth1]

Curious if the air was purged out of the lines. You need to bleed the high point vents. Each unit will need to be bled from the discharge side of the exchanger.

[@ajwood8920]

every bend adds resistance + height ײ

[@gyropilot1]

Why not a sea chest and indivudual pumps ?

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Are bilge pumps able to handle continuous duty?

[@gezac440]

You should also consider when you in another country?

[@SailingRoam]

Selfishly, I want these DC AirCon units to work as much as you do! It’s 8:30pm sitting in our salon with the AC on and it’s a toasty 86F! A good friend and professional captain said I should chat with Ingham Engineering in Ft. Lauderdale for AirCon pumps. It sounds like you may already have a solid solution but, another arrow in the quiver can’t hurt.

[@Mechone11]

I didn't see you bleed the air out of yellow line by bleeding r134 thru ,thus inducing air into the system

[@rkstreeter]

I'll be watching this and taking notes! I'm in a 32ft PDQ installing a velair 10k BTU unit i think it draws 6 amps @120 volts at full blast. I'm docked for the near future but intend on cruising after my updates

[@matthewtatarian147]

My new sail boat came with a 16k Velair unit. There is no Warranty. They won't even send parts after sending incompatible parts that don't work. After a marine electrician and air conditioner tech I'm throwing it away. I hope I caught you quick enough to buy a reputable manufacturer

[@gyropilot1]

Send my note before seeing all video

[@creighton_]

Do you prefer Home Depot over Lowe's? I've always wondered if there's any major quality/experience difference between them!

[@GodlessDad]

My pond pump would do what you need. Not sure if you've looked into those.

[@fountainvalley100]

A good mechanical engineer should be able to put together a required system curve for you. Once you have that curve then you can select a pump. Also you can reduce your AC load by applying low-e window tint. It will block all the infrared heat gain.

[@mwide100]

Quick question is the water necessary to cool the unit because you aren't exhausting hot air out like a conventional AC unit ? Also, what is the temp of the water on the output side? Would it be possible to recirculate water from a separate fresh water holding tank that you could occasionally fill from your watermaker?

[@ericmartelle8694]

why not an above ground pool pump?

[@Wherestherum-e6v]

Where can I get the ac from??

[@Maxtcee1]

Where did you get the units from? Looking to purchase 2 units for our Helia 44

[@Lana_Warwick]

Curious why using pvc pipe, rather than poly? Also, would a pump from a high pressure cleaner be suitable? I like the well/bilge idea

[@mrmped1]

Wouldn't a 48v chiller system with zone valves be simpler and more efficient? As to the system you put in, why not run a heat exchange system with glycol through the AC units and then set up the single heat exchanger for all units?

[@ChrisHarding-lk3jj]

I was thinking the same thing, run the air conditioners on a closed loop system and circulate sea water through the other side of the heat exchanger.

[@SailingRoam]

Cost and efficiency - chillers are expensive - as in, new car expensive - and, not as efficient as DC stand-alone units. I have a 10-year old 30k BTU/hr chiller on my boat now and it’s at end of life. The boat needs around 50k-60k BTU/hr and the replacement unit would be around $35k and use over 3KW of power. Ty discussed this as well a couple videos back.

[@scottfuller6063]

For this aircon from this manufacturer .... its not your water flow. You have over pressurised the system with refrigerant and the software will stop the aircon. (Condensor may already have had R410 gas in it from the factory.) Vaccum (reclaim) out the existing gas and slowly recharge. You should not mix gasses. Check unit for correct gas shown on a label.

[@maartenvanrossen6138]

Except that you should never discharge R410 in the environment.

[@magnusenamd]

I do not understand. Drag a lot of pipes and with water in a boat. Why not regular air air pump and draw ventilation to all cabins? Instead of lots of pipes with water. Pulls little and less complicated and only one pump is needed then right?

[@allan80supra]

I don't like the idea of sea water pumped through the ac heat exchanger, a glycol loop with a water to water heat exchanger in a sea chest would be much easier to maintain

[@TedKidd]

Need bigger pipes

[@forgetn]

Bilge pump work best because the don’t pull water they only push water….good luck

[@peterhancox5268]

Why one pump for all your ÁC on the boat. If the pump fails ALL the ÁC goes with it. A water system using ‘headers’ is very hard on pump ‘head’ performance, individual smaller pumps, one for each ÁC unit would be far better. Looks like you have enough pumps for two boats now. To check/commission one ÁC unit, run the water system on a simple temporary one pump and line system, ie KISS

[@TonyZanoska]

Well you know what they say... Nothing runs like a Hooker pump

[@Young937phoenix]

This wasn’t even a video it was a waste of time.