Don't Let Your Boat Rot : Balsa vs. Foam Core | Step 392

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[@teddysdadcory]

43k views in 11 hours. That’s like 30 THOUSAND people watching you work in one day, egging you on. Literally imagine if an entire city is standing there with you.

[@scyz2807]

Boy, I really Stepped into this Step! : - ) Dan, I think your new nickname should be Patches. "I'm depending on you son" to pull Uma through. 🎶🎶

[@cheapme1850]

I’m betting he’s not familiar with that song. Pretty sure. 😂

[@scyz2807]

@@cheapme1850 I don't know. Could be Dan or Kika looked it up. : - ) BTW - You must be old like me! LOL

[@richardkerby5311]

I would like to thank you, Dan and Uma, for taking us through the process you are taking to rebuild Uma. It's so nice seeing someone go through the same process I could go through to get a fresh boat. I don't have the hundreds of dollars to have a new catamaran built and the only way I could refresh my boat would be the same way you two are doing. You sailors are sure talented and entertaining, thank you

[@-suncheez-]

Despite I love watching you travelling and showing us all the beauty of the world, I am really excited to follow your progress on refit since I'll have to do at least some of the same stuff with my own boat, so you're helping my feature a lot. Thank you SO much.

[@araadkins]

The deck being all sealed in looks like a fantastically professional job! Well done Dan!

[@0xKruzr]

the work they've learned how to do is worth tens of thousands of dollars apiece. when this project is over they could easily turn this into a business!

[@edwin-38]

If using Balsa or core foam you can also install compression skin fitting to make the fitting water proof which seal the balsa or foam core from the fitting without the need to take off more material than needed and you use less thicken resin. This is what we do at work with the yatchs we build its also super simple to do and it’s a extra measure for safety

[@newfiescreech7328]

I'm a new sub, binged the first 60ish steps over the last couple weeks. Dan, you're awesome...such a change in your confidence and knowledge levels. I may never refit a boat to this degree, but you're the champ for doing it and posting it to help everyone! Cheers & fair winds!

[@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017]

When there was a question of whether or not Uma would be fixed I knew in my heart they would go for it. The spirit of this channel is pure DIY determination.

[@uscaptainstraining]

It is so great that you are basically building Uma in her entirety! These videos remind me of your original hardcore boat works videos that are so good.

[@papa.mike01]

You two should be so proud of what you’re doing with Uma. You are basically going to have a new custom built mono hull sail boat. 😊

[@marciboytje]

@18.35 I felt your pain doing something as quick as possible alone and all works against you 😓 End result looks good!🤞

[@tomriley5790]

Hope you're getting some rest Dan you sound knackered! Good luck!

[@GlendaMixer-jz7vc]

We watched a boat building company put small rain-type gutters above the side windows thus keeping water off your windows. Just a thought. We love to watch. We are patrons

[@SailingUma]

It's not really the rain thats the issue. It's waves.

[@scotttan6377]

Appreciate you sharing your decision-making process , the products used , and how you've applied them . These are great teaching skills .

[@cliffstevenson5773]

You guys are killing it. Narrative power.

[@JrPow3]

I don’t know enough about boats to know if y’all are doing well with the project, but I have been watching for some time now and can say your dedication is admirable! Love watching your adventures on land and water. Thanks for sharing!

[@t.vanoosterhout233]

Just chipping in to say I think you're doing a fabulous job! The renovation is an integral and essential part of the Uma-experience. I'm a bit surprised that I still see some comments second guessing your decisions. Shoulder shrug and keep on keepin' on.

[@SailingUma]

If we let strangers on the internet dictate our life path, we wouldn't go anywhere ;) The community conversations and sharing of opinions are great! We love hearing what folks have to say. But it's just opinions. And at the end of the day, our opinion is the only one that matters in our own life.

[@CowboysCarnival]

As someone looking into getting into sailing this series is absolutely packed full of knowledge!

[@WSallai]

That was quite an exercise in patience. You can apply pressure to the center of your patch using a pole jack, which would give you a more contoured appearance and confidence that it will not collapse. The hot glue is a good idea, but mechanical pressure would definitely be better. Also, to make things easier on yourself, get electric shears to cut the glass. Expedition Evans demonstrated that electric shears can cut through even carbon fibre and zips along drawn lines, and prevents hand fatigue. Uma is starting to develop serious bones to build out. You guys are killing it.

[@obxarms7685]

I come to your channel just to feel better about the projects I've been putting off on my own boat.

[@randycollett1746]

Love the Safety Crocs!!

[@michaelholliday100]

I see using balsa core as a hug mistake. If you get any minor cracking or delamination moisture will enter, spread throughout the balsa, and because the moisture is essentially trapped, you will develop mold and rot...Closed cell foam will not rot and the moisture does not spread beyond the initial entry point. I will grant you that balsa has great compression strength. Keep up the great work, you two make a great couple and it shows in your videos...

[@fredread9216]

Wow. What a project. Looks like you are going all the way to do it right. Great work.

[@pslny]

I just got back from a bicycle tour in Sardinia, Alghero to Domus de Maria. Beautiful place to be!!!

[@breakfast917]

Give yourself a pat on the back 😐

[@youstolethecookie]

Keep kicking ass, great episode! Been watching since the beginning of when I started seeing you on my timeline.

[@BJ-xs7np]

Good job on the boat! You did great in spite of the wind. Thank you for sharing with us!

[@danfadden]

I don’t know about you, but my nerves were on edge just watching, but once that tray of resin tipped over, I had to get a drink.

[@spray3716]

I found myself holding my breath as he was fighting the wind and laying in the fiberglass.

[@mikefetterman6782]

King of Balsa! Great episode. I am still taking notes for the day after Publisher's clearing house shows up here!. First episode with no Kika? Keep up the great work!

[@ExposingReflections]

Great job, Dan. Some things you can't control, and the wind and sun are two biggies. You can only control your reaction to their irritating moves. Great effort at not letting it get you down too badly. You're teaching us, and i for one, appreciate the effort and extent you both go, to have a positive effect and result. You're both an inspiring duo. Thank you.

[@richtidd]

With all the work you guys are doing on Uma, I’m reminded of a saying I once heard: The best ax I had had three handles and two heads! So I’m guessing the purpose of this work of love is to make Uma 2.0: Better, Stronger, Faster!

[@brianluck84]

If it were me glassing up those hatches that hot glue would have absolutely failed! You've got some luck!!

[@churchofthegreenflipflop2436]

Great videos! Loving the refit process!

[@thomaswall4285]

Well done ! yeah what a hassle in the wind

[@soggybottom3463]

Great job, Dan! 👍👏👏👏

[@billhellmers2739]

Another awesome UMA video. 💪💪

[@brucemckelvy9920]

Great work and excellent explanation of how and why you did it the way you did Dan. Not easy in those conditions by yourself either. Great video.. having built a Luger 21 fiberglass sloop back in the 70's, I can still smell the glass as I watch you work.

[@nearlynativenursery8638]

Great job sealing all your boats orifices. Truly enjoy you both showing how and why do do what you guys do. The engineering knowledge and details. All the Very Best! Jim Rodgers

[@RJMSINCR]

Good episode. I love how you guys make what seems like what could be a PITA makeover of a boat seem like a fun project…no drama just 2 people having a good time remodeling their home. This is way better than any of the home remodeling shows on the cable networks. And everytime I see those new ribs I am loving the thought of how stiff your hull is now…everyone needs to do that! haha.

[@philkakid5617]

Since you are going to be re-surfacing inside and out, just shoot some screws into the interior plywood to hold it in place while you do the exterior glass work. Also, whenever you are working with mat glass, fray the edges of the piece so you don’t create a hard edge.

[@SailingUma]

Ha! It's like you can see the future.... Just wait until our next video.

[@TammyBillings-qt1ve]

Enjoy the video and the explanation. We are fiberglassing our engine hatches on our cruiser. Very informative. Cheers

[@williamgarry2635]

I’m loving having the chance to watch you do boat renovations. But I can’t help but see these episodes as “The Duracell Project’s” smaller international sister…

[@DYoung-vt8pq]

Love you guys! Dan, You handled that resin blowing over so much better than I would have. Well done! Be well. ❤

[@matrixmike4089]

Your boats looking really good, you're doing a great job and enjoyed this video. Look forward to next episode!😊

[@mumblbeebee6546]

People who think that bright sunny days are all that counts have never raced kicking epoxy and the wind was cruel! When that dish started bouncing I thought the arrow was to say “look, even the dish got blown up a bit” and then… _eeeek_ It looks like it turned out really nicely, great work!

[@KestrelYI]

Great video. Really enjoying seeing Uma transform into an ultra strong blue water cruiser. Thanks for posting : )

[@floridasailor3732]

The spilled resin notwithstanding, that was one of the best how-to videos you have ever done.

[@jasonandlesleyread7428]

You guys are awesome! I love seeing what you are doing to your boat. You are doing a fantastic job. Hope you make it to New Zealand some day.

[@MikeBanks2003]

Balsa has better adhesion and strong compression resistance, and heat does not soften it as you have said (I think half inch is a tad light). I use only polyurethane or PVC foam, or my own mix of which later. The only other alternatives in use, the paper honeycomb and polythene or polypropylene honeycomb core is only good in light load interior panels and cabinetry where some insulation advantages exist as far as my usage of them is concerned. Naturally, I have barely used them at all. For some purposes such as repairs in those areas where extra strength or impermeability is required, I often use a poured and trowelled or tamped into tight spaces, a foam-epoxy-fibre compound I make up using small polystyrene beads, epoxy resin, and Cabosil powder, or cotton fibres to form the cell walls in the resin mix surrounding the closely packed but not too tightly squashed styrene beads. They need to be neighbours, not crushed together. My little trick ONLY works with epoxy resin --anything else dissolves the styrene beads.. I roughly calculate the volume, make up the mix, wet the base area with slow set mixed epoxy, add the mixture, then put my ply or glass decking wetted with slow set epoxy on top. If it is to be a level finish, one can put a sheet of release compound coated material on top, remove it later, then after cleaning and sanding the finished surface to level perfection, add the glass, peel ply, and the finishing resin, then after another sanding in any places left imperfect, the two pack polyurethane UV proof deck paint such as Poly-U 400. The good thing about this rather tedious method is it can be moulded to fit, Nothing much else can do this well unless you shape Balsa blocks or strips of foam, an even more tedious job. Bending panels of balsa means the gaps that open have to be filled with resin. Because I only ever use epoxy resin, this is not such a problem. I do not use Balsa, strong as it is, because of the rot problems one will eventually always get where fastenings pass through it. Yes--I do know the O-ring trick, but that does not save vessels already rotten. Any older vessel with balsa decks or hulls, or even cedar sandwich, or Paulownia strip plank is a great future source of income for shipwrights. If you wish to try this styrene foam thing, never neglect the glue powder or Cabosil as this eggshell structure which forms around the thickly coated loosely packed beads together with the superior adhesion of epoxy resin, is its compressive strength. While its tensile strength as a block of the matrix would probably be as good as or better than foam, the tensile strength we need comes from the ply or fibreglass above and below the core. The epoxy is only its cohesive matrix and adhesion to surrounding or adjacent structure--an advantage no other system has--the others all have to be cut to fit to fit and bonded using with rigid-set inflexible epoxy putty or filler. I use these mixed beads and glue instead, to get a better fit for sheets of polyurethane or PVC foam, where it must alight exactly with surrounding structure. The astonishing strength comes from the cellulose fibres surrounding the styrene which itself has little to no strength. Cellulose gives Bals its strength too.. Do make up your test sandwich pieces or repair simulations using some quality waste materials. Then stress test to destruction the set and cured finished result. I use this mixture ploy when I dig out rotten cedar, Polonia or balsa, and as long as it is dried out using acetone and a hair dryer, the adhesion of epoxy to almost anything and compressive-adhesive strength in any direction provides as good as or better than original. The more glue powder or Cabosil or cotton fibres you add. You can even use coarse sawdust if that is all that is available to you--I have used it to repair rotten wood dug out from wood under badly fitted cleats, and it works fine as long as one takes care. The more cotton fibres one adds, the less mobile the mix becomes, but the stronger it becomes when it is set. I use slow -setting epoxy resins, but that is because. I work in the tropics.

[@largefarmant6798]

This is terribly interesting to me. I looked around and could not find more detail on this. Could you give some basic starting point guidelines? Like percentages by weight or volume, how big are the beads you use. Do you use cotton balls and if so, do you cut them up and what length. When you mix this, what do you add when? Could it be, epoxy, mix, add cotton, Cabosil, then styrofoam beads?? How does this compare to balsa in strength? I could see how this would work well if you could get the mix right.

[@jimfisk4474]

Thanks Dan,good going❤

[@robertbiron]

The first thing I would have done is put a wind barrier there but good on you for keeping your cool, I would have been possibly saying words I really don't ever want to use. And looks like you did a terrific job, now I know how it's done. If I only had a boat, 34-36 ft. would be nice. 🇨🇦

[@Milbssailing]

Couple flexible battens across the sheet material supported by vertical supports (1-bys for example)....will force the plastic protected sheet material to take the curve of the overhead. This will eliminate the gaps you discovered from above / on deck. That wind! :)

[@sallyb3]

Dan. I really enjoy these segments so much. Bravo Zulu 🎉

[@papa.mike01]

you surly have done your homework. maybe some day if you have the time you could edit from all these “Uma rebuild” videos into a master class and put in on one of the “how to” channels. You Rock!

[@williamdavis2565]

I follow four to five cruising channels, and a lot of those have moved on to V2.0 or V3.0 of their vessel. So glad to see you guys giving Uma some TLC and refurbishing her to V1C (with several mods in between). From what I can see, y'all are building her properly for many years to come. Keep up the good work. #reduce #reuse #recycle

[@largefarmant6798]

Yes I agree. They are putting in labor and time but "if" they bought one, they would have to pay somehow, more labor and time. This way they have exactly what they want. Any new boat would have faults if some sort. And it’s super interesting to watch.

[@gustavovieira4819]

Nice job. I suggest you roll the fiber in strip of wood or pvc pipe. Easy for work, you can progress you job without the wind flap it around. 😊

[@SVTapatya]

Nice glassing work!

[@marandam6019]

Great video!!!!!

[@glencrandall7051]

Looking good to me. Based on your explanation the leaks should be a thing of the past. Too bad about the wind and heat. But at least it's not rain. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

[@sailingheretic]

Oh man, fiberglass hell, been there. Well done.

[@user-lq3ss9xf8c]

Nice work and nice real world video (with the epoxy spill).

[@martineyer5336]

It’s so satisfying pulling off the peel ply.

[@graeme-sailingskeptic]

Dan I feel your pain. I have been exactly in that situation doing boat repairs. Windy day not enough hands to hold glass and roll and then the paint tray flips🫨🤯🤬🤣 it’s a pain but it’s repairable.

[@mickey-b3198]

Best attention getter: Buy the “Don’t get a couch!” T-shirt!! Today was the third time in 2 days when someone in a store started a conversation with me asking me what the slogan means!! If you want to meet people, just order a shirt 😂

[@SailingUma]

Ha! We’ve had and heard of similar experiences. It definitely starts conversations.

[@largefarmant6798]

A shot in the dark on why small areas of the resin are not setting when you use garbage bags to cover the resin. They make some garbage bags now to "decay" (biodegradable) for environmental reasons. To do so, some just add corn or potato starch to the mix and the starch rots. It's also a way to make cheap bags. Maybe your bag has corn starch in it and is letting small amounts of air in. Try using non-degradable poly film and see if that changes things. search term "What Are Compostable Bags Made Of?"

[@ArtemKlochko]

Looks like it is a long journey. Some rebuild took more time than build from scratch. Good luck!

[@user-rn8ej6jh3k]

It's a big volume when you see empty. Plenty of room for your designs. In addition it looks strong and that is so important.

[@duanemiller5606]

Here recently a bunch of people were arguing about the hole that you cut that you’re going to core and fiberglass over has to have rounded corners but think about your wood core. How many square corners are in that one patch in your large hatch area that you’re filling in, dozens, 100 or maybe even more. By the time you have all the fiberglass and resin on it. It won’t matter because the actual fiberglass skin that gives the strength is one smooth arc over the top of the deck. It’s when you cut the final hole for whatever hatch you’re gonna put in there, that’s when you gotta make sure you have rounded corners. One more thought, if you put a weight on the corners to hold the glass roughly in place till you can start to wet it out. It will make it a lot easier until that time the resin will take over holding it down and keep it from blowing around.

[@SailingUma]

Rounded corners is a think when the hole is staying there. Like for a portlite or hatch. But if you glassing IN something it makes no difference at all. It was just misplaced advice

[@duanemiller5606]

@@SailingUma yeah I know, but some of those people would like a dog with a bone.

[@andrewbrown2063]

You might find it easier if you load the fibreglass with resin in the shade out of wind and sun and quickly move it to the job location. They did this on Ran 3, in much bigger pieces.

[@red_ben3487]

You have some serious patience, I'm over here sitting on my couch yelling obscenities at the TV as the wind keeps blowing your fiberglass. And you just spilled your resin as I'm typing this comment, I would have lost my cool well before that.

[@HellyWelly93]

That wind looked like a nightmare!

[@paulas_lens]

That arrow…shakey-shakey…🫣

[@janecme]

Interesting but logical solution using balsa. Thanks for doing the research on this - I'd always assumed balsa was used because that's all there was in the old days

[@MikeHarrison3266]

So, flexible, water-resistant and easy to use, I'm thinking Playdoe. I have not looked at cost but as a fun factor just seeing you do such a thing would give me a good laugh.

[@ApexWoodworks]

Dan, if you're needing to do this again, might I suggest that you fasten the plywood to the underside using two-sided tape, followed up by bracing from the inside using long poles. That way you'll have a more conforming panel. Just a thought... As well, a temporary roof above where you were working would have certainly helped with the sun situation and you could have attached a wind-breaking piece of light plywood to the windward side of the frame to help you out. But, given that you were doing this all by yourself, hey, kudos to you for getting it done, despite the weather situation you had to endure.

[@buza1300]

Always start with the largest piece of fiber glass first! Due to strength😦👍 that's what I have learned in my 37 years of fiberglass repairs to make it strong!👍

[@sergeyn.syritsyn6748]

came here to say this too! kind of makes perfect sense once you know it!

[@SailingUma]

It's a heated debate. But in reality it doesn't make any difference in strength. You start small and work to large to avoid having all the exposed edges pup up when curing. Peel ply helps. But the goal is to match the existing layers of glass. We don't know any professional boat builders that go large to small. It ALWAYS small to large.

[@bdjm8595]

I like those "safety Croc's" !!

[@carbidegrd1]

I used blocks of balsa on my sailboat. I dipped each finished block in epoxy and sealed them. Then used system three with a thickener to stick them down like bricks.

[@Mmmyess]

What I liked most about this entire video was Dan saying that this is going to be a months-long project. Considering that videos likely get published weeks after the footage is recorded, we'll get more of your DIY refit vids into maybe October or November. I sure hope so! 5:32

[@SailingUma]

Weeks? hahaha we literally finished doing this last week .

[@Mmmyess]

@@SailingUma My bad! I thought you folks had videos in the can waaaaaay ahead of posting them. Knowing that we're close to real time, I can join the all those other geniuses telling you what to do. hahahaha (Don't worry, I won't...I just like watching the work.)

[@dmacpher]

@@SailingUmadang that’s quite the pipeline!

[@largefarmant6798]

I've been watching and learning a lot from you. Thanks. I normally don't comment on anything, but I think there's something you should add while the boat is stripped for safety. Have you seen what happens when lithium batteries short? You may have newer batteries that are less likely to do so, but it's my understanding all of them will burn fiercely if compromised. This is a boat. These are going to be constantly rubbed and flexed internally no matter how you mount them. You are putting these in the cabin and while they are very likely to be fine, but "if" they do catch fire, and you are on the ocean the likelihood you will die is not anywhere close to zero. I read an article where a guy had only batteries to run various portable electronics. Not big ones like you, like AA cells, and it burned the whole boat down, really fast. Superfast. Luckily, he was at anchor and escaped. But there is a way to protect yourself. Look up castable refractories. They use them for casting metal. You could make a fiberglass pressure vessel type enclosure lined with this refractory. Overlap the refractory tiles with two layers like you overlap glass fiber in vacuum layouts in corners. Not a super tight engineered pressure vessel, just a fiberglass skin to channel the gasses outside the boat. Each battery in a separate slot and then put a vent to the outside of the boat. If one or all burn, it will vent outside the boat. Maybe use a wax plug to close the vent hole. Lots of heat, wax melts, vents outside. Other alternatives are low melting temperature metals for a vent plug. I bet the whole thing would not be too costly and not weigh too much. The piece of mind in knowing you had this covered I suspect would be immense. As it is, you are gambling 100% that nothing "ever" will happen to them and maybe this is true but... Of course now that I'm making this an issue it will, or should, bug the hell out of you. And BTW I'm not a super safety nut of any sort but some things, burning alive, frighten me. Other options might be to add mineral wool which has a high melting temperature. Another is to add water jackets around the batteries which if a battery burns it will heat the water and, if vented, carry a large part of the heat outside the boat with the water vapor. Water has, as I'm sure you know, enormous heat carrying capacity and you could use this to keep temperatures in the boat down. Recap. Castable refractories are fairly cheap. I see online about $30-50 USD per twenty pounds. DIY versions even cheaper. Maybe you could get by with 40lbs and very likely 60lbs. I would make them in tiles. Like 6" or whatever You could mass produce with a few special hand cast for corners and the tubes going to the vents. Overlap layers like this guy did for buildings and subways that I give a search term for. Bolt or tie down batteries . Use a good silicon to glue down and "close" grout with silicon. Make each battery in its own refractory cement box with a relief at the top to vent. Some simple plastic bags of water around the batteries would likely take away a vast amount of heat, very cheaply "if" you have good vents. Search terms Guy who built buildings with tiles, you probably heard of him. Cool stuff. The overlapping is what I'm emphasizing. "Rafael Guastavino" "Guastavino tile" "castable refractory " "DIY Castable Refractory" "DIY crucible"

[@SailingUma]

Lithium “ION” is quite scary when it goes up. No one has that in their boat. Lithium IRON (LiFePO4) are a completely different cheater. They’re super stable and don’t burn up. In the incredibly unlikely event that they have a thermal incident, they just smoke for awhile. But don’t burst into flame. There are many safety features built into modern batteries to avoid this from ever happening. I’m not sure it’s actually ever happened in a boat.

[@largefarmant6798]

@@SailingUma My mistake. I thought these would burn too.

[@SailingUma]

No worries. It's a common question we get all the time. Wish there wasn't so much miss information out there painting all "lithium" as the same thing.

[@Jezebels_Dad]

Good show, Dan. I do miss Kika, but you have your own style. It has been fascinating to see your relationship grow over the years. That wind is tough to work in. Be good and see you next week.

[@deanberchenbriter8758]

Where is kika

[@Diggers57]

Nice one

[@faircompetition1203]

Really a lightly laid up boat . I suspect they were counting on the interior cabinets , rails and bulkheads . I rebuilt a shark a few years ago and was surprised how structural things like the slides for the companionway and the frame for the hatch were .

[@Mmmyess]

I remember you folks dealing with condensation and gluing foam to the inside of the hull...I think you were in Norway at the time. So now I'm curious... Do you have plans to insulate the hull? Also, might you install portlights below deck level (i.e., into the hull)?

[@DutchKC9UOD]

I am sure glad you like doing fiberglass! I worked with it for 40 years and would hire kids to do it! Lol

[@tomweinstein]

Would it be practical to set up some kind of sunshade/windbreak?

[@SailingUma]

We’re thinking about tenting the boat for the summer to create some shade. We haven’t got a quote yet.

[@gps831coast]

I usually put the resin on top of my mat as a anchor. Plus it will drip where it is going to go anyway. I really lothe the wind sometimes and love it other times. Love hate. Sweet and sour. Haha.

[@charonstyxferryman]

Those YT adds are really odd, The first was an ad for *laser cutting machine* 😂😂 - you know - those machines has easily a $200,000 price tag.

[@mikaelmartin9288]

Thanks again for a nice episode. You are amazing and doing such a great work. You are really hitting the nail in the discussion on core material. I understand you going for balsa again since the rest of the boat is made with that, but hoping that no water never will enter the core with such complexity as a boat with so many cuts and holes is to ne naive. I would never today buy a new boat with any organic material in the core, but better go for a Divinycell type of core. Togetger with Epoxy, Polyester or Vinylester that will never rot.

[@SailingUma]

True it can’t “rot” but it can still delaminate. As long as you do you’re fitting right. And keep an eye out for cracks, you can avoid any water intrusion.

[@eppot1]

good and strong !!!!

[@EdwardTilley]

Good video! I think I would take the shell out for a rigourous, twisty, banging sea-trial, BEFORE you install all of the interior finishings. This way, if there is a problem with adherence (between the new ribs and the 50-year old hull) you won't have to pull the entire interior out to fix a boat wide systemic problem.

[@scottduthie2912]

My Islander 21 has an interesting V-berth port light. There's a two foot by two foot area with rounded corners that didn't get gelcoat. It's solid and waterproof but the light can still get in.

[@SailingUma]

Light isn't the issue. We want to be able to SEE out of it, on anchor on at sea.

[@johnmayer3433]

Some lead weights from diving gear could be useful in that windy conditions.

[@claverton]

Really useful for me as I have to replace a hatch and will have to do some fibreglassing. Not sure yet on how to get the colour the right match on the last layer ...

[@adamaxe1]

Dan and Kikka good Job!

[@johnphillips519]

Geez you got more patience than me, I would have lost my shit when the epoxy flipped over🤣

[@northeden8661]

Hello from Nanaimo Dan. I live next to the yacht club on Stewart Ave. Ha !!! Small world.

[@marcellacruser951]

Just a thought about the CS blowing around in the wind . I use large, really heavy washers scattered around to hold tissue paper patterns down to fabric when I'm cutting out a dress. Would that maybe help when laying out your glass? You could toss them on a piece of film if they get sticky so they'd pop free after the resin cooked off, for reuse. Plus, they're relatively cheap and Im sure you could find them there.

[@sharimahigab1292]

Building Uma is the new channel name

[@williambremner9022]

Just wondering why you haven't used vacuum-bagging for all the deck / side-deck filler projects? Removal of air in places where you're filling with glass, epoxy and balsa core is achieved so well with vacuum-bagging. Just a thought. It's not difficult to set-up and use.

[@IanZainea1990]

16:58 i'm sire they sell tarps or sheets in Italy... Make yourself a work tent

[@paulhunter8486]

Hey you two, thanks for the continued inspiration. I wanted to mention the use of g10 compressed fiberglass dowels that is regularly used by the shipwrights in my area. Over-sizing a hole, filling, and re-drilling, is generally an outdated process and instead many are choosing to insert g10 dowels and drilling and tapping the dowel. This adds and incredibly strong holding whilst not needing to have any through-holes in the material. Also, curious why you do not use the peel-ply on the lower portion of the glasswork and are instead opting for plastic? I guess the process would involve plastic anyway (ply, plastic, peel) but curious. Best wishes.