Salvaging Sunken Engines on My Yacht - Will They Run Again or Is It Game Over?

Todays episode is sponsored by merch! bisforbuild.com
❱ Shop - bisforbuild.com/
❱ Patreon - www.patreon.com/user?u=3364742
❱ Facebook - / bisforbuild
❱ Instagram - / bisforbuild
❱ Twitch - / bisforbuild
Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten

[@seanthompson6720]

if you watch tavarish most recent episode on his flooded P1 build. the wiring expert explains why your harnesses are not going to be good long term (the wires basically wick the water all the way through not just the exposed bits and they will corrode over time). It could lead to you being stranded or killing your expensive engines. get a new harness because it could cost you a lot more.

[@taznz1]

It's not just water that can wick along wiring harness, oil and fuel can wick along wiring, this is why you always want solid metal connectors to act as.wicking break on fuel pump power wires, otherwise fuel can wick all the way to your ecu or fuse box under your dash.

[@lutomson3496]

Tavarish is not cheating on not restoring it so its going to be a cheap McLaren not a P1 anymore proper treatment as i have already posted will mitigate with trichloromethane and dichloromethane cleaning circuits joints and everything as it leaves no residual and you can dry it have done millions$ of DOD circuit boards and wiring in worse condition over the decades..proper chemicals and treatment are the key not a youtube twit

[@beatingyou01]

It just needs to dry out and it will be fine.

[@Kornatzz]

Most of these wires should be marine grade. And this boat was in fresh water, so it wont really corrode as bad as tavarish’s P1

[@dannyipwn1203]

If you think the marina in Oregon (pacific ocean) is "fresh water" youre mistaken...@@Kornatzz

[@atomsbudgetreviews8713]

ECu’s need to be ultrasonic cleaned with distilled water before ANY power on. Use isopropyl alcohol with an old toothbrush and scrub the surface, exposed pins. Use electronic cleaner in the plugs. Then inspect under a scope to clean and verify for trace damage. You’ve got a cap that is blown. The coating you see on the board is called conformal coating. This helps against moisture and corrosion. This will definitely help recover those ECU’s. Definitely repairable and salvageable.

[@illililililillli]

This is 100% correct ^

[@Rckid28]

It hurt me when he said he was going to add heat 😢

[@Random-dq8ew]

Nah, send it.

[@ironmantooltime]

Rice!

[@pjotrh]

The dehumidifiers prolly did more in those boxes than the rice.

[@brucepeterson3246]

I am an Electrical Engineer and Failure Analysis guy. The blue green is copper corrosion from the sea water. The salt water is an electrolyte in a reaction that involved the copper in the printed wiring board traces and connector leads. All of the corrosion should have been removed and the part final clean in DI water and IPA with a thorough drying process. Putting it in rice is a good way to remove moisture

[@gannas42]

I was with you until you said rice. Rice is terribly slow to absorb moisture. Silica packs or granules work so much faster, even if more challenging to source. For instance, 7 days in rice is about half as effective as one day in Silica. So even if you needed to order online and wait 4-5 days for delivery you are still ahead.

[@brucepeterson3246]

@@gannas42 I agree with you. I was proposing something they have available. For me, I would put the board into my vacuum oven and actively remove all the moisture.

[@gannas42]

@@brucepeterson3246 Fantastic option to have!

[@DanielCapon]

This approach works well i used it for phones successfully many times. There is a decent video on Linus tech tips showing the process on a pc.

[@Zombiereaper1]

The boat is in a river, not saltwater.

[@Soundguy79]

You might consider putting those screens under vacuum with the desiccants. Lowering the boil point will help the water evaporate, allowing your desiccants to grab it.

[@Thierrywo]

The blue stuff on the electronics is corrosion from copper, Isopropyl alcohol also usually helps to get it off. You might want to consider taking the ECU's to an electronics repair shop or to Holley themselves, seeing as the part where the tune is saved might still be salvageable, although unlikely. For the digital dashes, I would recommend fully taking them apart. Using a heat gun, you should be able to pry off the top part (digitizer), after which you can clean between the digitizer and LCD, which has discolored. Any electronics behind the display can be rinsed with Isopropyl alcohol, which also displaces most residual water left. Putting the separate parts of the display in rice or using a dehumidifier of some sort and blow-drying them with a heat gun would give the digital dashes the highest chance of surviving. Edit: as @tmothyadams sugested, ultrasonic cleaning in distilled water is also a great (additional) option for the electronics (not the display), although you would need an ultrasonic cleaner.

[@Vteccer666]

if the electronics have been hit by salty water there is no saving it ever, no need to dry and test it

[@shawnm6621]

Willamette river is freshwater.@@Vteccer666

[@tmothyadams]

@@Vteccer666 ultrasonic cleaning in distilled water might help, but do not put power to the units until they have been cleaned thoroughly in the post above

[@Thierrywo]

@@Vteccer666 salt water does always wreak havoc on electronics, however seeing as they were submerged for a very short amount of time, proper cleaning can save some of the electronics. It definitely doesn't hurt to try to save them.

[@Thierrywo]

@@tmothyadams ultrasonic cleaning definitely would be a great idea, although it is a bit more expensive of a method.

[@terryhayward7905]

I wash electronic circuit boards very regularly in an ultrasonic tank, as long as you dry everything properly, in a warm place overnight, they will not be damaged, you turned them on when there was still liquid under components.

[@ulbuilder]

Back in the 90's one of our customers brought us the computer we sold him a few weeks earlier. It was wet and covered in soot. We figured the firemen had already soaked it with water, more water couldn't make it worse. Took it to the car wash and blasted off all the stinky soot. Disassembled, cleaned the boards with isopropyl and put fans on everything for a few days. Other than the floppy and hard drives everything worked fine. Did the same for my brother's computer when he had a house fire.

[@kimkeam2094]

Had a similar situation with a smaller boat. Removed all water oil etc, coated all external fittings with lithium grease and put all electronics first in distilled water, and dried in large containers of silica gel and rice. Still going great 20 years later.

[@RustedRides]

That's amazing! I know at my cottage there was a boat that sank at the Marina years ago...i asked why they didn't pull it out right away (they left if for 3-5days or something) and I was told that if they can't work on it right away, they were better to leave in submerged for 3 days before pulling it out and working on it rather than pulling it out and letting it sit for 3 days before getting to it

[@10_Remco_01]

As a boat mechanic, i would advise to replace all the critical wiring, like the kill switches and fuel relays. A lot of things can fail but you must think about what really shouldn't when you go out boating, you don't want to get stranded or worse, in a accident. Also saw a lot of wires where the corrosion goes very far into the wire. Consider chasing that down for sensors because that won't help with correct readings.

[@corlyscrawlies]

Remove as many screws from the screen units, then Completely Submerge the screens in 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, let them soak for about 5 minutes, the alcohol will go into the devices push out the water, then when you bring them back out of the alcohol leave them hung upvertically for around 5 or 6 hours for the alcohol to drain and evaporate.. i've done this many times with phones, tablets and a whole laptop! works a treat!

[@DrLamalama]

I tried it and the isopropyl started dissolving the adhesive betwetten the digitizer and the lcd, leaving heavy discoloration on the edges of my screen. It doesn't work for everything.

[@corlyscrawlies]

@@DrLamalama maybe don't submerge it for as long as 30 minutes maybe a quick 5 minutes would do it.. it shouldn't dissolve the adhesive that quickly..

[@lahaya237]

the alcohol is basically just there to mix the water with alcohol.so that it evaporates faster. it doesn't need 30 minutes for that. but glue and other natural products will also dissolve in it.

[@corlyscrawlies]

@@lahaya237 Not necessarily aslong .. it has never happened with my devices, i'm curious if it's a specific type of adhesive it removes then..

[@lahaya237]

@corlyscrawlies It is also used to soften the glue used to stick batteries in telephones. mainly with older Samsung models

[@towguy9557]

So, I have a 41 ft sailboat I keep anchored out at the local anchorage. When this freezing storm came through my area, I spent a few days out on it with a generator and a couple space heaters to keep the pipes from freezing. It was kinda miserable because they didn't exactly make things warm but they did keep things from freezing. I had to stay aboard the whole time to keep feeding the generator every 2 hours. There was debate as to whether it was necessary but then I found your video and realized that I made the right choice. I'm sorry your boat sank. Hopefully, your experience will educate others to the potential consequences of neglecting freeze protection and maybe save a few boats in the future.

[@mediocreman2]

But the good news is you had plenty of time to yourself to contemplate life and to watch KZbin. 😅

[@TheSkaireKrowe]

Im really glad to see this B is for Boat series not die...It has been a trip to watch your struggles, failures, ... then successes, and joy from having such a boyant (cough, cough) vehicle in your fleet... Best wishes to you Chris and team..!

[@Tieaga]

I love vids like this. I already knew your planning process because I've seen similar vids of salvaging flooded engines. I also love when you ask for solutions because the comment section is full of gold. I learned a lot from it already

[@pjbth]

Hey game over is Mike Finnegan's boats name you can't steal it 😂 FYI There's no way that hose is rated for hot engine oil like temperatures even hydraulic hose can't handle it so your going to want to take those things off asap unless you want to dump all your oil out with the engines hot and running.

[@slimndnjim]

I'm with you on this one.

[@kiesh.]

Especially at whatever operating pressure the sump sees

[@tomplumb1]

just needs the ball valve on the engine side/drain plug and not at the end of the hose

[@loganobrien3525]

Game over is disassembled hull sold and motor going in something else

[@rickway2039]

@@kiesh. the sump typically runs at a slight vacuum unless you have a ton of blow by or a clogged catch can.

[@austinking5281]

I can rebuild/repair the electronic componants for you. The Holly ECUs would be pretty easy. The coating on it is a coating from the factory to help protect the PCB from corrosion. I can repair them for you!

[@balltongue87]

you gonna warranty the ecus, harness, engines, and accessories, too?

[@MayesBuilt]

@@balltongue87 If he wants to strip, outgas, and re-conformal coat an ECU, it is going to lead to a much higher chance that the electronics will work.

[@austinking5281]

Also not going to charge him.

[@Shadow0fd3ath24]

@@balltongue87no dum my read what he said...theyre trash now. He will either fix them and save them money on buying new stuff...or theyll be in exactly the same spot they are now without them working and at least they tried. He isnt charging them to do so either

[@itskarl79]

@@balltongue87 yeah, full warranty, and he'll marry his mother, and adopt Chris...

[@willpoweredgarage969]

Hello, Yeah EPA.....ITs this boat right here with the oil slick around the bilge pump discharge. lol

[@audreyleithes2994]

Chris you &the team have a amazing ability to rise above adversity and tackle all problems love this team work.

[@joshlindemeier2434]

Send the electronics to Holley to have them looked at by professionals!!!

[@CrispyCars]

It's really mind boggling to me the amount of stress you can take on. This looks like a nightmare man. Your ability to just push through is incredible.

[@christophermorris6386]

Well, he is battling cancer 😢. So grace under stress is everyday all day I suppose.

[@CrispyCars]

​@@christophermorris6386 I mean I suppose there's always a chance cancer comes back but he's cancer free now.

[@buellb0y]

Well, Texas Speed most likely gave him the engines, Holley sponsors him, and every time he posts a video like this he gets paid. Bullshirt drama like this pays for everything.

[@vlognblog.]

his stress makes for sick content that helps pay for the damages, probably helps

[@patricks8876]

​Yep, I'd be shocked if this entire boat sinking wasn't an intentional stunt to gain YT views and subscribers. I'm watching, so clearly it is working. 😅

[@chrisnations845]

Chris-real question-where inside you do you find all your positivity? That’s my favorite thing about your videos-obstacles don’t seem to bring you down

[@holdawayt]

He's not short of money and problems like this create great content. I'd be positive too!

[@houstonrefinery719]

It's the same business model as Hoovie's garage. When tragedies hit people, it makes for good content. Since Chris is monetized by KZbin, tragedies = profit.

[@danpineda4447]

Financially happy

[@VLOGISGARAGE]

He was sick few years ago, now is fine and millionaire. Who cares about 40 year old junk boat and few ecu-s.

[@tuck6464]

1.65 million subscribers. Who knows how many paytrons. Who knows how many sponsors. Last and certainly not least OSCAR.

[@warbuli]

Glad the engines are running! Taking into ocnsideration that the boat sank, I would honestly change anything electronical that would potentially leave you stranded should they fail whilst you are out at sea. Alternators, engine wiring, bilgepump wiring, starters, etc

[@Jasta315]

I would remove every copper wire and electrical component on that thing and replace it. It may not be corroded now but it will be then you will be chasing electrical gremlins forever. Ask Tavarsh how copper wires and the ocean mix....

[@Seamus_Mc]

Wires on a boat are supposed to be tinned copper to avoid corrosion. Bare copper shouldn’t be on a boat.

[@emc84]

Did this go down in the ocean or the river?

[@spyrule]

What your looking for on the Oil pan's are the Fumoto valves. As for them getting knocked off, I know two separate rally teams that use them religiously. If your hitting something hard enough to break a fumoto valve, you're more likely to need a new oil pan anyway. The hose setup you did, will not withstand high temps of oil, and will melt. The fumoto valves have a kit that connects to the end and allow easy hose attachment when draining, but are removed when not doing maintenance.

[@richardlekawa850]

The clear hose isn't rated for the high Oil temps!

[@martinwink2063]

True rally mechanics don’t mind unscrewing a hot drain plug

[@jesperwall839]

If the oil temperature gets so high that it melts plastic, you have bigger problems with that engine. The biggest problem with this setup is if the hose is not rated for oil. The temperature might make the hose softer, but it will not melt.

[@chadvarnell1889]

@@jesperwall839 If the build any crankcase pressure along with the heat, I would bet it would *'Splode*...

[@kevincollins7911]

Miracle oil in cylinders first?

[@erniee7557]

I like your guys' optimism and humor after such a nightmare of an accident. Hope you guys set sail again.

[@RustedRides]

Totally agree! They are still having a good time even in such a bummer of a situation. Love their positive attitudes! One of the inspirations for us to start our channel

[@All_Systems_Nominal]

One thing that I didn't see mentioned yet (Didn't look too far) Is that water will gather UNDER the chips on the board if they're not completely sealed. Submerging the PCB boards in isopropyl alcohol will displace the water, if any, under the chips on the motherboards. As mentioned in another comment, soak for about 5 minutes, allow to completely dry, reapply electric lubricant, replace the blown capacitors that smoke and you may be able to salvage those ECUS.

[@kylewolowiec2853]

Use a heat plate for your screens, it will soften the glue used to secure it. When you remove it from the housing use a spudger and picks. Once out, use distilled water and give it a soak preferably in an ultrasonic cleaner. Pull out and give it a dry with a fan or compressed air (careful with how much pressure you use as not to blow off components from the Motherboard). Let dry completely for a day or 2 with a fan running and if you can a space heater. Then use your crc sprays!

[@howland24]

I agree, this is essentially the process I use to clean circuit boards after hand assembly using solder containing water soluble flux.

[@therealsasquatch7779]

A better way is a vacuum pump. It essentially makes the water boil off at room temperature.

[@dudaoutloud]

TBH I LOVE this kind of content…boat, car, it does not matter. It’s all about solving real world problems. The successes and failures are all great to watch…and to learn from. Thank you!

[@robertmarx4857]

So glad to hear you're going to participate in the Freedom 500. Been watching for years and it seem to be a blast.

[@VPTfab]

I have kids, they spill things. One laptop I have got flooded 5 times with fluids in its life. Each time I stripped it down, brake cleaned the entire thing boards and all. Blow gun everything super good! Still works to this day! I have done this with many electronics now and have had absolute GREAT success with almost all of them!!! No joke! Brake clean it all (displaces water and dries instantly) and blow gun (compressor blow gun) everything real real good! Absolutely works!

[@UncommercialGames]

yeah, but I guess a spill is a bit of a different story than having electronics submerged underwater for hours. If you look at power electronics, there are many different levels of waterproofness.

[@citizen77750]

Chris, I suggest putting an AN line from the drain plug to an electric oil scavenge pump to drain it from the button to a bucket. It's easier for oil change.

[@JoeCdaYT]

From the HVAC field we use vacuum to dehydrate our refrigerant lines. If you build a box to put the displays in and maintain a relatively high vacuum you should be able to clear the moisture out. I would think with about 80F and vacuum of about 13 inches of mercury you would be able to dehydrate those displays.

[@robwaz1547]

You are excellent at explaining all the different effects,thanks for sharing your experience thoughts and all your insights

[@frankgeimer5952]

Thanks for the update Chris! I am glad those engines started!

[@RustedRides]

It was really nice to see them start and run! I'm sure he was super relieved

[@JakesSRT8]

To effectively dry the screens, silica desiccant gel beads, there are some that change colors to indicate moisture absorbtion and can be dried in the oven to re-use. Place the screens in a completely sealed box with the beads (as the beads will absorb air humidity fast)and keep at a warm temperature (100F), replace and dry beads until the beads stop changing color. You also could fly them out to New Mexico for a few weeks but I don't think that will provide the best content

[@VegasMikeP229]

Salt water is horrible to electronics. Flush the system with distilled water, alcohol (quickly) and THEN into an oven with the beads.

[@TheAndrzejPan]

Chris i think youll have to replace the whole wiring harness on the boat.The water travels inside the the wire sleeve and corodes it from the inside.Even if you see only a little corrosion at the end of the wire it can be corroded down the road.Would suck to get stranded on the ocean due to that

[@jimtaylor431]

Massive relief to see those motors run! Really pleased for you Chris.

[@austinbignoli9250]

A good and simple method I have found for drying electronics is to use a shop vac and a sock. Put the hose into the output or blow section of the shop vac, put your device in the sock and attach it to the end of the hose. The warm moving air dries MUCH faster than rice or most other methods I have tried. Also, if you buy some 99% isopropyl alcohol, it will mix with the water and displace most of it, as a bonus it's non conducting.

[@Cutlerms]

You should not have left anything wet on the electronics, even the lubricant. The proper way would have been to completely clean with Isopropyl Alcohol, above 90%, and then let it dry and then try to start them. Rice also doesn't do crap for electronics. You should have got mini dehumidifiers and put them in the box with the screens and that would have been more helpful.

[@charlesk7687]

The idea of using electronics lube to displace the water isn't a BAD idea. Chris ain't perfect 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@victormackenzie-davis2711]

Yep you are very correct, I would just send the screens and ECU back Holley they are pretty good about repairing stuff

[@jwalster9412]

If you fully encase. A phone in rice, there is a none 0 chance it will work again. So I don't see when trying that on an exu would be bad.

[@ianhoyt2638]

@@jwalster9412 It's not really that rice is bad for the electronics. It's more that there are better, more effective things to do before the junk inside has a chance to solidify and corrosion worsens.

[@freedomfox8183]

It depends on what you're drying rice 100% will work but it will take a lot longer than plenty of better options

[@scottryana]

Last episode: Make sure you double hose clamp everything in a boating environment.... This episode: made a special bolt with hose to hold all the engine oil. -- No double hose clamp. lol.

[@freedomfox8183]

That's because there's no pressure on that line if anything it's going to suck it on harder ... Do you know how the oil sump works?

[@scottryana]

No the point is that marine applications see more vibrations than road applications. Do you even know how vibration transfer through a hull works?

[@brianwaldron1723]

You guys are awesome. Thanks for sharing this journey with us all.

[@werberderber6209]

In the future if you can't winterize in time use two or three spot lights (not LEDs) in your engine bay with the hatch closed and the lights pointed at the critical points of the cooling system, this will provide enough heat to keep it from freezing. I have even used several of the work lights to do this. and have a generator on standby just incase power goes out.

[@JuPac420]

The coating from holly on the PCB is Conformal Coating, used to keep moisture from ruining the board. Not enough to stop submerging however, as the housing wasn’t completely sealed. The blue is corrosion that can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol

[@itsreallymecasper]

A bilge pump alarm could have saved you a whole lot of grief. I know that most boat owners that own old, and especially wood boats get alarms on their cell phones on a regular basis for small leaks in the hull. That would have solved this sinking.

[@Juanperez-mz8oh]

Nice 👍

[@marvindebot3264]

closing the damn sea cocks like you should when you leave the boat would have saved a lot grief.

[@f.w.1318]

I made this comment on his previous video, regarding the alarm, also most inboard boats or at least the one I owned, had an independent high flow bilge pump that tripped a float switch once the water filled to a certain level.

[@davidrodman1783]

He already explained that the bilge triggers were frozen in a previous episode.

[@spanishtreasure9551]

yep dual bilge / light indicator pumps

[@zzttbb1]

Your boat sinking has been great for your channel lol. Lot of good content

[@pilotguychris7217]

Congrats on getting the engines running! That is freaking amazing. I would expect yes as you said at the end of the episode time to go to dry dock and start diagnosing all the rest of the flooded parts. Huge job what a great start again congrats

[@mattb6001]

coating on the PCB is called conformal coating. it does help protect it from moisture but is not 100% protection. isopropyl alcohol is your friend when it comes to cleaning circuit boards, although the conformal coating complicates things slightly.

[@bradi8548]

I use a hand pump oil extractor on my Mercruiser, but it has a rigid rubber tube (think; thick straw) that slides into the dipstick hole and has enough rigidity to get all the way to the bottom of the pan with kinking or bending. Not sure if you had that piece or were just trying to jam a flexible rubber hose down it. If only the flexible hose, there is no way it would work. Also helps with warm oil, which obviously wasn't possible in this setting!

[@who_is_tray4152]

(I want to get away from the blast zone) gets impaled by a water spear 😂😂 16:44

[@kennyray116C]

Great positive attitude. It's refreshing!!!!

[@markcollins457]

All the plugs should be pulled, fog the cylinders and re-fill the crank case with oil. Disconnect All the injectors and with the spark plugs out and ignition Disconnected crank the starter. You have to lube the cylinders. Good luck buddy and make sure the seacocks are closed the engines you don't know if a short could have tried to crank an engine and that's not good cranking with water could have cracked a head or block? You have to remember the marine exhaust risers were submerged so water came from every direction.

[@DrRainier]

Hey Chris! They do actually make for the small block Chevy based marine engines a drain hose that lives indefinitely onto the oil pan. Typically you would run that hose through your drain plug and drain your oil out when on the trailer or dry docked but you can also use it as a location to attach a pump to such the oil out. Since your drain plug in your pan is supposed to be the lowest point when you suck it out from the hose I mentioned it should get all the oil and water out. One of my boat engines I own came out of a commercial fishing boat and has this setup on the engine.

[@spanishtreasure9551]

and adding 1/2 to 1 quart of marvel mystery oil to each engine and running at idle for 5 minutes before draining / pumping them out / both- completely will clean the trash, , water residue , etc out them

[@Rcmiller]

Yea, this happened to my dad years ago , when stuff was not so much electronics. And after about two years was done. Even though he used the boat every weekend. Also any wires in the engine which happened to be a new engine with some electronics. Almost anything that goes into salt water is done. No matter how good it looks. Good luck.

[@Drunk3nMas7er]

Don't forget when you drown a motor you need to get it to full operating temp for a while and make sure you cook all the hidden internal moisture out of the engine, oil will turn milky a couple of times.

[@DoRC]

Rice does not remove moisture from anything. That's an old wives tale. Putting things in rice actually insulates them and prevents evaporation.

[@Wowezzersdozzers]

Also it doesn't do a single thing for all of the corrosion and stuff left behind. It's just wasting rice.

[@forgivenx1947]

It does tho

[@owenoneil951]

Silica gell will remove the moisture. Those little forbidden beef Jersey seasoning packs

[@shelbyGT40]

Wrong

[@XxmillerniaxX]

Rice is a hygroscopic material. IN other words it will absorb moisture, and yes it does actually work, Your best bet though is natural rice grains, not the highly processed stuff most people buy to cook with.

[@SovKnight]

I'm sure Chris wasn't planning on having boat episodes, but I for one enjoy the boat adventures.

[@themorganator]

Loving this series. I'm gutted it's happened to you and the team, but you're doing an amazing job fixing it! Can't wait for the next one!

[@taurota1554]

awesome.thanks for sharing and taking us along

[@MrShpaco]

Really quick idea to try for drying those screens. In A&P school, we were taught that pulling a vacuum lowers the boiling/evaporation temperature of water. That's one of the reasons you pull vacuum when charging HVAC. Obviously oil doesn't mix well with oil and electricity, and it's nearly impossible to verify all water in the evaporator and condenser without a vacuum. So, BUILD A VACUUM CHAMBER and let those screens sit in it for however long, maybe an hour or two. I would absolutely try this before using chemicals. Good luck! I hope you have success!

[@kb43ver]

It could even take days, but you are right, I konw it from the lab, where I was working. But I wouldn't take alle vakuum possible, only about 20% under ambient pressure. and a bit of heat could help too (40°C). For chemical labs, there are special drying ovens designed for vacuum and heating, but they are very expensive

[@warmfreeze]

vacuum will pull the layers of the screen apart.. not a great idea for this instance..

[@kb43ver]

@@warmfreezeExact, this is why I recommended only a little bit of vakuum and a little bit of heat.

[@VegasMikeP229]

Good idea but was that fresh water or salt water where the boat sank? Gotta flush the electronics with distilled water and alcohol, then the vacuum should finish it.

[@StevenKinnear-wn9dd]

Use way more rice. It attracts Asian people who are extremely good with electronics

[@irishpilot777]

I told my wife about your boat issues. She was super bummed and hope it all works out in the end. Much love from Seattle!

[@rockcityfpv9117]

Love that the engines are working !!

[@stuartparry1649]

Well done Chris and the team...super impressed you guys saved these engines

[@dreadpirateCarlos]

Damm Chris admit it. You have to put that boat on the dry and pull those engines out. You are just wasting time trying to do this in the boat.

[@L1Z1O]

This. Was shocked they didn't start with that the SECOND the boat was pumped out.

[@cdnroofer]

Best advice yet. I figured it would have been a no Brainer right from the start.

[@athhud]

Why? Probably thousands of boats get recovered and salvaged every year without having engines pulled. I would have liked to see them fog the cylinders with oil after they got the water drained, but other than that, after they get the transmission sorted and the fuel system cleaned out, they’ll be good to go as far as the non-luxuries go.

[@rannyacernese6627]

The water was muddy, engines need pulling apart to clean

[@redneckswitwheels]

In 40yrs of water salvage we have never pulled a engine unless we had alot of mud and that's with it goin down running..ur fine..

[@casperandthebeast5780]

Love your channel over here in the UK. Hope everything is well with you and the family from me and my family.

[@compu829]

One thing to add: that oily residue likely came from the moisture absorbing beads that were added to the rice. That is calcium chloride. As it absorbs moisture it liquifies into a salt water solution which dripped on top of your screens. I’ve had the best success with an electric bbq oven. You can set the chamber temperature to around 120f and the fan will constantly move air through the part and out as it sits inside in the rack.

[@rixtrix11]

In my much younger days, I got distracted while doing an oil change on the 302 in a 1969 Cougar. I returned to the car just before the oil crested in the valve cover using a bulk oil refill system. Pulling the drain plug, I recovered 34 quarts of oil. Adding the correct amount and test driving the car, it took 43 miles of city/freeway driving before the exhaust stopped smoking profusely! Best wishes on this endeavor! Be careful with that vinyl hose; it could possibly fail due to the heat of the oil! It's much better to use a pry bar to turn over a flooded engine as the starter can develop enough torque to bend a rod or blow a head gasket during the first revolution or two, even with the plugs out! Best wishes moving forward.

[@EB-dx7eb]

Use a vacuum pump and a sealed container of some sort. Water will boil off in a vacuum. Hvac tips!

[@JavierFernandez-bq5ks]

It might not be a bad idea to try a machine to vacuum food, they are not too expensive and if they are not suitable for the boat, they are always useful in the kitchen at home... Another cheaper option would be vacuum bags for storing clothes. On Amazon, for example, there are different sizes and you only need the bag and a vacuum cleaner.

[@cj.wijtmans]

which will leave conductive residue everywhere, you dont know what you are talking about.

[@GaryMclaughlin-vq2be]

My boat went down in fresh water for one hour. Every wire switch and magnet in every motor corroded and failed by the third season sorry buddy.

[@djwilliams4714]

Yeah I highly doubt he replaces wiring sadly

[@TraderDan58]

I had a 1/2 truck go into a lake and I can agree that EVERYTHING IS TRASHED. The engine ran after replacing all the fluids but every single switch, wire, relay, connector, and gauge corroded within 18 months

[@JWxUK]

It’ll be short term as you say, realistically everything will need replacing especially if it’s likely to leave you stranded one day.

[@670tazman]

That's something I can fix

[@tonyj5408]

definitely a true story , salt water will definitely destroy every wire , not just at connections but it will run corrosion the whole length of the wire

[@bergyboys]

Your Holley screens have "oil" from the white moisture absorption beads. Those boxes are designe to pull water out of an environment and collect in the bottom of the bin below the tray with the beads. I use these in my boat for winter storage, always have an oily water collection in the bin. When I saw you place those white beads right on the Holley screens I said "noooo!". Right idea wrong application. Rice alone was fine. Hope you can recover them!

[@bradmottishaw467]

SUCH GOOD NEWS! Nice save to all of you on the boat.

[@mausball]

That blue stuff in the ECU is oxidized copper, where the water got it. Your power supplies smoked, and those ECU are toast. The rest of everything electronic, and maybe everything electrical, is also toast. Sacrifices to the water god of the Wilamette.

[@hammervision6252]

Marine engines typically have a remote oi removal hose. Also, a vacuum extractor is typically used.

[@buellb0y]

These aren’t “typical” marine engines. They weren’t designed for use in a boat.

[@taconerd101]

This is partly true. I havent seen any LSx blocks in boats where I live, we do have a fair amount of I/O that use older chevy blocks. The only big difference between a marine and road going engines will be the cooling system. It is standard practice to drain oil from marine engines with a vacuum extractor and replace exactly how much you removed. Once done then you can run the engine and check levels. @@buellb0y

[@Iam_Yu627]

Fumoto valve is your friend.

[@gregfrancois4504]

Vacuum extractors are what we use. Never had an issue. However if I had water in that I’d probably still want to check the plug as I don’t trust I get every drop with the vacuum

[@burroaks7]

dry sump would be nice

[@lab-quade708]

Whenever we have a problem with contaminated electric or electronic devices we wash these devices with ultra pure water from our lab. You can also use an electric teeth cleaner for pressurized water. This water is so clean, that the electric resistance is close to 18MOhm. After flushing we use an electric oven for drying. The results are astonishing. 10 gallons cost us about 5 to 10 $. This is not available from the pharmacy, but medical labs use it for analysing specimens.

[@riverpirate1022]

Wow after watching this video I finally get it. This is a comedy channel, not a serious show. That's the only way to explain how you guys are still alive, or have any money, let alone over a million subs.

[@chrishenry571]

Just watched Cleet's last video and see that this guy is driving in the next race at the Freedom Factory! Congrats Chris! B is for Helicopter!

[@lindsayollenich748]

Blue stuff is Copper oxide. Good luck! Love a bit of boat stuff.

[@nikolamihaylov94]

If you watch the LTT video on cleaning PCBs and electronics, the correct process is to scrub them with soap and distilled water a few times, then do the same process over again with 95% alcohol and let them dry under a fan for a few hours, I've done it and it produces beautiful results.

[@rotax636nut5]

Excellent work, your positive attitudes in the face of such a disaster are an inspiration, PEACE

[@kylehewitt3108]

I'm an electronic repair specialist.....that blue stuff on the ecu is corrosion.....you should really clean and get a component check

[@cstoaks01]

My worry would be how dirty the water was. How much of that dirt is contaminating your bearings, rings, and other sensitive surfaces?

[@ChadNewitz]

Engines luckily don't have huge unfiltered openings in them. Basically most water would go into the engine from exhaust and intake

[@OffTheBeatenPath_]

Exactly. These engines need to be 100% disassembled and cleaned. Especially for boat engines, as you don't want to be stranded

[@SkidsJDM]

I drive by on the bridge every morning. Have been loving being able to check on the boat, to see it live to float another day! It sticks out down there with the other boats, so im able to spot it every time.

[@febrymd]

Excellent job, I enjoy the boat series much more than the car stuff!

[@ChrisScales17]

I would get fluid film and get creative with some nozzles and start spraying what you can now. It's fantastic for rust prevention and creeps

[@vwssit]

are those clear hose even rated for oil? and imo theres too many failure points on this setup(i mean you guys just had a massive failure sort of related to hose clamps), probably better just get a fumoto valve, or have the shutoff valve right on the drain plug

[@phejom]

😊

[@elite_shadower_6057]

I agree with you when the oil gets hot will that hose handle that heat? Also that drain bolt won't drain all the oil it will always have Abt 1 inch of oil remaining in the pan

[@georgepalm2307]

Fumoto drain Valve much safer

[@eriklarson9137]

@@elite_shadower_6057 No. That hose will not handle the heat. Period.

[@catfisher420]

Also they sell those hoses pre made to be able to run it out the drain plug so you can change your oil without getting oil in the bilge.

[@duckedup]

Just saw earlier that you are racing in the Freedom 500, that is awesome! Long time follower and fan, fellow (former) Portlander.. this is the 1st channel of this type I followed, way before Cleetus.. It kicks ass to see your progress and success on KZbin and now you'll be collabing with Cleet! Love all the content, and even though I'm mostly a car guy, the boat content is must watch for me, so glad you didn't just write it off! ... Thanks for doing what you do, it's inspiring, and entertaining for some of us who can no longer do the kind of things you do.

[@Timothy_Jacob]

You have to fog everything with a corrosion preventer. That will save you another year or so. Anytime you flood something with an engine, the absolute first thing you should do after getting it out is get the water out. Change the fluids, fog everything, heat cycle it a few times, repeat. After 3 rounds of that, it’s ready for a couple hours of run time, then another round. If everything’s doing okay by then, let her rip until electronics start failing. Then replace the wiring harness if you haven’t already

[@GeoffInfield]

16:51 I could watch that all day 😂

[@Rob_Ferreira]

Should have used oil drain plugs with valves that you can connect a hose to in the first place. They’re readily available all over online and in auto stores. A must on boats.

[@tonyking3125]

Yep, but that would require good decision making, haven't seen too much of that here.

[@mazda21626]

He did, did you miss the part where he installed them?

[@Rob_Ferreira]

@@mazda21626 you mean the most ghetto home built failure waiting to happen thing I’ve ever seen in my life?

[@kylef2254]

Oh! @NorthridgeFix too for the original ecu repair!

[@EthantheKing_]

So hype to see this thing running again AND you at Cleetus’s Freedom 500!!!

[@user-yf3or2nx8u]

B is for Boat series is awesome I sorry your boat sank my guy it sucks big 1s, can't wait to see it skip across the water again!!

[@nikh4003]

Sinking your boat and then doing a build series. Great Idea!

[@toast6135]

Hey Chris, great job but have you checked the gearboxes? They are separate to the engines and water can get in through the breathers. They look like ZF 220 or 240's. Chances are they have sintered friction plates inside but if they are paper then the water would of pulped them and they will need rebuilding. If sintered, drain the emulsified oil, flush with diesel then fill with oil again. They should be ok but worth doing another oil change later on.

[@johnschieffelin3226]

Wow, so glad you were able to save the engines. Well done.

[@normdyer94]

Bronze seacocks at each hull penetration. They are ball valves with flange to the hull. Then you only need to remember to close them every time you leave the boat for any length of time.

[@jeffdavidson8262]

Always a good idea to close seacock when leaving the boat unattended for a long period. But … Water remaining in the closed seacock (between the hull and the ball) can potentially freeze as well

[@KingB-10]

Hé didn’t prep te boat for winter should have closed al valves and drained al water systems and flush them with anti freeze

[@garylinnane917]

Dehumidifiers are the best thing for getting water out of electrical items like screens, drones, and phones. Place a bag over the dehumidifier and place the screen in the bag so it takes all the moisture out of the screen

[@SE4943]

Moisture isnt the problem, the drying and the leftover chriystals are.

[@davidbackman4442]

the ability to draw oil through the dipstick tube is also dependent on the viscosity/temperature of the oil. I can't drain the oil through the dipstick tube on my boat with my pump unless the engine is warm. One of my boat neighbours has a better pump, and his has no problem drawing cold oil. It's a bit slower, than running mine on warm oil but works fine. One option if you have shore power are those self-adhesive sump heaters. That'll give you warm, runny oil inside an hour.

[@keenanmatthews1208]

Just an FYI: At my work we use CRC electrical cleaner a lot. But we found the contact cleaner 2000 doesnt leave any film. We had boards shorting out from the use of cleaners like that. Most HF or QD cleaners from them leaves a film.

[@lewispaine4589]

I would add fresh oil into the engines as the internals might begin to rust with no oil and water residue, then crank engines with spark plugs out, blow the water out, spray wd-40 or ? into cylinders, change oil again

[@Zonotic2]

did you watch the video?

[@ChrisScales17]

Wd40 is a solvent. You don't want it in your engine

[@jwalster9412]

Maybe seafoam instead of WD40?

[@camdenspehl3688]

He did add fresh oil to the engines tho…

[@et7409]

Marvel mystery oil

[@killeguy]

Well oskar did a such a good job with the fridge. So he is surely qualifield for the engines

[@raffel3844]

I'd use an exiccator to dry the electrical components. An educator is a device used in chemical labs. It's basically a glass container with a load of siccagel (a moisture absorbant) in it. The container can be evacuated (near-vakkum applied), which makes remaining water to evaporate real quick and get trapped by the siccagel. Can also be used to dry out the isopropyl treatment others recommended. Good Luck

[@geierb387]

For the Holly screens the oily substance is likely from the desiccant you used. I use a desiccant regularly in our boat. It definitely generates an oily substance as it's consumed and that is what is left behind and needs to be disposed of. It doesn't act like rice and simply absorb the moisture. Just my experience!