Guide to Oud notes when making perfume (Natural & Synthetic)

[@ziachowdhury8222]

Hi Sam, as a chemist, I find your opinion on Oud oil interesting, knowledgeable and bias-free. As you have explained, the oud smell could vary due to the oud forest's origin and cultivation types. Moreover, there are several distillation types and three to six oil collection stages in each type of agarwood distillation. With zero knowledge of perfumery, I was on the hunt for oud oil for my research purpose at the beginning of this year. It is frustratingly difficult to find authentic oud oil of first cut or second cut (terminology of oil collection stage) of any origin of plantation or processing types from a marketplace or a so-called reliable source with a business interest. After visiting several oud processing plants, I finally had a rare chance to have a few cuts of oud oil on my hand. I would be happy to bring those vials to you if you wish to have a sniff!

[@franklinfuertes]

Well. Hello there I am cosmetic formulator and if he didn’t take you up on that offer please let me be the one 😇

[@letsgetitgaming3812]

I hope Sam took you up on this offer, you’re a saint for offering 👌🏽

[@elsafwah]

Good morning, I advise you to try Indian oud oil, it is fragrant and fills the place with a beautiful smell

[@saurabhrathore1]

12 ml pure oil cost around 100 usd.

[@salomonriefofficial5430]

I'm a barista, I'm about to learn, how to make my own parfum. And, your videos is extremely helpful for every kind of me. Thanks sam.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@AVINASHSINGHKHALSA]

World's best, complex and expensive Oud comes from Assam, India. Mention of agarwood (oud) is also mentioned in indian ancient script ~3000 years ago. Proud of being an Indian.

[@elsafwah]

Indeed, as I mentioned, I have this oud. I have more than 250 grams of it

[@dariumlondon5768]

Great video, as always. Don't be hesitant towards Oud Maleki, blend it with Oud Samrat and use in a very small amount, less than 0.5% in a perfume blend. Blends very well with Suederal.

[@thelake31061]

Yes please, i would love to see a video of a perfume made with oud

[@davidlohcc]

I have been a perfume enthusiast and have been looking for videos that go into such technical details. The closest I could find was Burr Chandler (who speaks really well), until I found this channel. Amazing! Please keep up the great work, really appreciate it!!

[@sammacer]

Thank you, I appreciate it!

[@angelalbornoz161]

Hey man, your videos are amazing(literal gold)! Super informative and straightforward. Thank you for making them, keep it up!

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@bluemystic7501]

Literal gold? lol

[@MusicKnowte]

Addicted to your channel. This video’s gonna be a BANGER.

[@sammacer]

Thanks!!

[@laavaneyasharma2591]

Nice vdo,Sam. I am using BLACK AGAR for some years,but the information about other synthesics helped really.Yes I am interested in accords/formulas because you make elaborate/comprehensive ones.Once again BIG thanks 🙏.Cheers.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@gordianusthefinder9862]

Hey Sam. Great video and I'd definitely love to see you do an oud-including perfume video, and/or one on oriental-class perfumes discussing the different sub types (floral, spicy, gourmand...) there are.

[@sammacer]

Thanks!

[@fhoeflich]

Same here. As an apprentice perfumer I've had my hands full studying raw materials, getting ready to try the first couple of other people's formulas, etc. but all I know about oud at this stage is that I do want to go there eventually. Anything you could do as a practical oud demonstration, particularly a compounding video of your own oud blend explaining your choices of raw materials, would be tremendously helpful (and I expect popular). Wearing your KZbinr hat: oud would almost certainly be a golden opportunity to create another *series* like the wonderful rose accord videos. Mideastern background/culture/origins, more details about infection of the trees with fungus, oud chemistry, Scent School evaluations again and ultimately a review of the Eastern perfume brands as well as Roja with their pervasive oud fragrance families.

[@magiccomments]

Your youtube is a gold mine! Thankyou very much

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@Perfumery_by_Sabin]

I only have black agar but I love it. Used it in one of my favorite colognes I’ve ever made. I called it OudManthus. It was themed around oud and osmanthus obviously haha

[@Perfumery_by_Sabin]

My wife loves it as well and she is hard to please when it comes to fragrance. Very sensitive/good nose. Sadly she is not interested in perfumery AT ALL lol

[@sammacer]

Cool, I never would have thought of that combination

[@thenoodee78]

Im from Kuwait and oud is part of our tradition and some of success combinations i made is wild oud very very low precentage ,Rosa damascena,sandal wood, cardamom, neroli

[@sammacer]

That sounds like a lovely combination to me!

[@elsafwah]

منورة بنت الكويت

[@mohammedzuber3478]

With rawoud oil we can blend make oud amiri,suyufii,maliki,and khadeem

[@fhoeflich]

@@mohammedzuber3478 We need you all to advise Sam on the making of more oud videos, and hopefully the series. I would definitely take notes - oud is clearly an important and integral part of your cultures and has been for some time. I'm eager to see such content.

[@Rasalghoul123]

Hey Sam, I am unsure how aware you might be to the arab oil market. But there are many brands some of which include Surrati, Al Haramain, Swiss Arabian and many more... I recommend / am curious to see you try a bottle of their CPOs. Also not sure whether the UK has an AbdulSamad Al Qurashi store but I believe they do. I recommend you go and ask to try the Dehn Al Oud they have. I think that will give you a deeper outlook into the world of oud. Also would love to see a video of you creating a oud perfume

[@sammacer]

I’m not very familiar with the oud market at all - for sure it’s something which would be interesting to explore one day, I’ll keep an eye out for those stores!

[@Fstop313]

This is why I cringe every time I read someone say that they didn’t like an oud fragrance so they just threw it in the trash.😢

[@pami333]

Oud Maleki is my fav oud base so far, while I didn't like Oud Samrat at all and haven't used it in maybe 2 years... because it smelled mostly of strong amber molecules to me, which I don't like, and it kept smelling of them even if used as a tiny portion in a blend.. Black Agar Givco is a nice woody resinous base, would come second after Oud Maleki in my list. I have a few samples of natural oud from Russian Adam (Areej le Doré), which all smelled quite different (and quite different than expected), none of them has barnyardy, not even incensy notes, some even were fruity or had green aspects to them. You must definitely get a sample of Firmenich's Leather Oud, this would most likely make you think of Oud Maleki being clean and gym friendly 😅

[@Shawn-gw7ns]

I have this(leather oud) and it's got a cheesy funky aroma going on😂

[@sammacer]

Very interesting! I knew someone would like Maleki - I haven’t seen the leather oud anywhere…

[@pkiler]

Besides the strong ambers overdosed in Samrat, it also has an overdose of Polywood (captive molecule.). Clearwood is overdosed in Maleki.

[@aphr0d]

Would love to see an out perfume making video from you !!

[@dammyhazeez1027]

Very honest guy.

[@chernyylebed2050]

Very educational and laconic. Thank you for this content!

[@josesaraiva9566]

Hello Sam Goodnight, I have 5 Oud bases, they are: Oud Synthetic 010760E, Oud Leather, Oud Firbest and Oud Samrat all by Firmenich and also Black Agar Givco 215/2 by Givaudan. for me my favorites are Oud Firbest and Black Agar, Oud Samrat has a super amber smell I think Amber Xtreme is not one of my favourites ambers, Oud 010760E is perhaps the weakest and Oud Leather is a mixture in my opinion of Oud Firbest with a Base that seems to me to be Suederal LT. I'm thinking of doing a simple composition with one of these bases, I still don't know with what, because they are very strong bases and easily dominate everything: They can almost be used alone, after all they are composed of several oils and molecules. As I'm not an expert in Oud, it doesn't seem easy for amateurs. I've already smelled several Oud perfumes and the one I think is most similar to the real thing is perhaps "The Night" by Editions Frederic Malle, a real bomb but with a bit of a barnyard smell. Best regards..

[@sammacer]

I haven’t got firbest but it sounds nice. I think oud pairs well with woods and vanilla so maybe try that, dosing it low if you find it overpowering.

[@josesaraiva9566]

@@sammacer Thanks

[@LucidDude]

I'm a big fan of oud, glad to see you covering this topic. There are some really awesome producers over here in America that will sell just a few drops of different types of wild ouds (Rising Phoenix perfumery is a great one) so I've taken advantage of that just to be able to smell some of the wild stuff without breaking the bank. I mostly agree with your assessments of these various oud reconstructions, funny enough though I find Oud Synth 10760e to be stronger than many of the others, must hit my nose differently! You are spot on about Oud Maleki, doesn't smell like oud at all, more like dirty civette with ambergris (the bad parts of both) lol. I would love to see another video with further experimentation, really fun to work with these materials in my opinion so I'd love to see how you use them!

[@sammacer]

Fantastic, I’ll have to keep an eye out for rising phoenix perfumery. My 010760e predilution has been sitting for a couple of years now so it could be that it looses strength over time on alcohol!

[@fhoeflich]

I agree. At least another video on oud experimentation/compilation, even if the entire series (above) doesn't get done. A little review of an experiment with Rising Phoenix or other cooperative perfumery partners getting test quantities of some less affordable bases would certainly be welcome, and could be built up as a little co-marketing collaboration between them and The Fragrance Foundry.

[@EsotericMedia499]

perfumer's world - nice guys

[@headless.scents]

Ohhhh excited for this one! I love oud notes 💫

[@sammacer]

Hope you enjoyed!

[@LTAS]

Great video, love it Sam! 🙌🏻👏🏻💯

[@sammacer]

Thank you Cody!

[@LTAS]

@@sammacer Always my friend! 🙏🏼💯

[@waqarghulam3548]

Hi Sam, please show us how to make an oud accord

[@leec1468]

Thanks about to put an order in !

[@sammacer]

Fantastic!

[@chrisatkinson5169]

First of all, thank you so much for what you do! Secondly, I don’t know if it is permitted, but it would be interesting to know what popular perfumes have each of those different food bases. Are you allowed to share that? And lastly, is there any kind of kit that a new person like myself who has maybe 100 colognescan buy two learn about individual smells?

[@sammacer]

Tricky question since it’s very difficult to find out exactly what’s used to create the oud note for any given perfume. As for learning about smells you could purchase a raw materials starter kit, for example the one we have over at The Fragrance Foundry

[@bobvog7123]

Thank you for your commentary! Very interesting.

[@sikeju92]

got some information about oud in this video. thanks sam. i recently doing perfumery at my home and wanted to try some honey-malty-cereal with some oud in it. does Black Agar Givco suitable for this gourmand perfume?

[@sammacer]

Yes I don’t see why not!

[@shallbee.]

Thanks Sam!

[@sammacer]

No worries!

[@yosoyyuenyuen]

14:34 “poop-like smell” must smell bad, and the funniest thing is you said “some people like this kind of stuff” cracked me up 😂😂😂😂😂

[@kwokmingng4548]

thank you and love your videos

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@787ashok]

Positively u shud do an oudh based perfume also try to get hold of oudh emiri Or oudh khaslkass these two r natural oudh and the resin quality is very superior

[@pamelacrawshaw781]

What do you mean by an Oud base exactly? So it's exactly that a base note so you would add a middle and top note to make a fragrance?😊

[@davidnapoleon2187]

Oud wood is my favourite cologne!!!

[@jfreddd]

yes, using oudh in a composition

[@oinkoink644]

How far can you dilute real oud, and still have a strong and long lasting impression?

[@unknowninfinium4353]

Can you do a cheap version of this?

[@ModernBladesmith]

Black agar is so nice

[@5wm562]

TRY: Maleki w/ Cinnamon Leaf+Galbanum Phenyl Hexanol+Honey Alternate notes accordingly: You'll find nuances of rose,pineapple, cherry, peach and plum in these chords

[@fhoeflich]

How about an actual basic formula with individual weights? This sounds like a great starting place for the beginner, with a chance to actually smell and try improvements to the fragrance rather than just parroting someone else's work.

[@5wm562]

@@fhoeflich There is no attempt here to present a formula or 'parrot' someone else's work. I've no idea why you'd make such a comment if you understood what a formula was at all, and I've been quite clear that it is an accord, not a full perfume. Moreover there's no one place to 'start' in perfumery besides starting, trying different things, experimenting with materials, including reproducing known formulas, which Sam has demonstrated several times (and beginners are strongly encouraged to do). That is how one goes about learning to use these materials. I'm not sure what your comment intended to say, but thinking about perfumery this way won't get much progress.

[@fhoeflich]

It was not my intention to snipe at your list. It would have helped *me* not parroting anyone else's work to have some weights and maybe a few ingredients to flesh out a basic formula or even just the accord. Sam has said before that thinking about your materials and doing some experimentation to try out your own ideas is much better than just blending documented formulae by rote. I meant no criticism of your post; I was just requesting a bit of amplification for an admittedly apprentice perfumer and others. To keep things genial here, I retract my request and thank you for what you did post, as-is.

[@5wm562]

@@fhoeflich But that's the whole point; no one can tell you how to compose your own fragrance. If I or anyone else did post any kind of formula, wouldn't _you_ just be copying someone else's ideas? Of course you would, that's they we exist as a community. As for supplying 'weights', again, once you've understood generally how to compose a fragrance formula, accord etc. it's up to you to decide which direction your composition goes in. The exact same list of materials with different weights will smell radically different from each other. You simply _have to_ experiment and see for yourself.

[@5wm562]

@@fhoeflich To answer your concern though, when we put materials together initially this is usually done with test strips to see if those materials will play well together at all _before_ we start formulating. Even then if they don't seem to, we can anticipate how they might in a formulation with weights. This is why I only suggested the materials without weights, since I've no idea how anyone will choose to combine them.

[@salomonriefofficial5430]

Hello Sam, can you make us a universal accord that can be used for all scents, be it woody, floral, aquatic etc.

[@sammacer]

Check out my video on perfume bases!

[@deep_z]

can i wear the synthetic ones youve mentioned as oud if used very slightly? or they can only be used in a perfume and not solely by regular users individually?

[@unclereamyaky6138]

Hi sam, im from malaysia and i want to now ware can i get popular perfume fomular. I want to make it

[@cristidumitru22]

Hi Sam i am a newbie in creating perfumes, at the moment i am working with e.o. i have dilluted them to 10%. I have made the desired combination but i have noticed that the perfume is not that powerful. I have not let it to macerate, is this the reason why my combination is not long lasting/not projecting? Thanks!

[@Sumida2]

Only essential oils? Then it's time to get into aroma chemicals too.

[@cristidumitru22]

@@Sumida2 what are aroma chemicals exactlly and where can i buy them if you could help me😅

[@cristidumitru22]

Are perfumed oils in the same type with the aroma chemicals? Would these increse the scent projection/longevity?

[@Sumida2]

@@cristidumitru22 Have you not been watching Sam Macer's other videos? You should check the one called HOW TO MAKE PERFUME // Full perfumery course (2022). It sums it up well, but you really need to watch/read other information to get into all the details. The rabbit hole of perfumery is extremely deep.

[@alfatihainstituteshaikhyas491]

Heck yeah!!! Plz do! And also is there a course that you offer in perfumery?

[@chrystals.4376]

Does Oud bring out any interesting notes in Gourmand perfumes?

[@sammacer]

I haven’t tried it myself but would be interesting to experiment with

[@chrystals.4376]

@@sammacer Maybe I should when I find a better living place and room to experiment with, dirty sexy chocolate honey with oud sounds interesting to me, though I’ll probably have to settle for an accord and or aromachemical due to the price of that ingredient even when wholesale

[@sikeju92]

@@chrystals.4376 interesting.. i like to try some honey-malty perfume with some cereal vibe to it. does it make more interesting if i put some oud on it?

[@chrystals.4376]

@@sikeju92 Only one way to find out

[@waqarghulam3548]

I doubt that

[@XxAlawi147xX]

if you're not sure about the purity of the pure oud you got the assumptions in the video made it lose the main point of introducing about oud. additionally just wanted to add the poo scent in the oud is mainly from the Agarwood from India. so if you wanna try the other types (Thailand - Philippines - Cambodia - Malaysia ) you will find the woody smell but without the poo

[@jamesrice3438]

Where to buy 100% oud

[@spcooper94]

I haven’t smelled that many oud scents but the immense trendyness of it draws me away from it. Maybe the selling point of how rare and expensive it is influences people’s perception of it

[@لاحولولاقوهالابالله-ق4ل]

Can i make oud fragrance from labdanium and styrax and cedrol and cedryl acetate and vetivryl acetate thank y

[@sammacer]

Sure

[@لاحولولاقوهالابالله-ق4ل]

@@sammacer woud y mind to help me becouse i try but scent becam amber not oud thank y very much...

[@justaddlight]

Very interesting! Love the tier list at the end Sam. A barn full of poo definitely not for me. 😄

[@sammacer]

Haha yes, and glad you liked it!

[@shihanpk2934]

i heard that Dealing with aroma chemicals cause cancer? Is that true?

[@sammacer]

No it’s not true

[@johnhamil7183]

He is probably dealing with benzene extraction since benzene will remain to some extent in the oil or perfume and benzene is cancer causing

[@rishashyamjha]

Hello sam I no to oud agredecn

[@787ashok]

I only work with natural oudh and for me synthetic and it's knowledge is very poor probably I m not keen in looking in that direction

[@fhoeflich]

But then you would need to have a sheikh's purse behind you, and not all of us have that. Synthetic may not seem as appealing as naturals, but trying it is much better than not exploring oud fragrances fully at all.

[@MarkMoore-l4g]

Wilson Edward Lee Charles Johnson Kevin

[@osamatheblacklotus8788]

Now they found away to make the infection to the tree to get oud.

[@photographedemode]

👏

[@duckjoss2206]

Make a series"How to make perfume easily"

[@sammacer]

Haha isn’t that all my videos already? 😂 But on a serious note, what do you mean different to the current videos?

[@fhoeflich]

Same advice as given above: now there is a Perfumery Course. So you can find Sam's video on that, sign up and Make Perfume Easily. Which is to say: all you need to do is all of the reading, prep, purchasing, compounding, iterating, and skills development to develop your nose and judgment and you'll be all done! 👼

[@-IE_it_yourself]

fecal notes

[@francoismakhoul3820]

good one mate, keep it up! have u tried pretty oud firmenich? harry has it give it a try, its kinda different and easy to play with. cheers mate.

[@sammacer]

Thank you! No I haven’t, I will keep an eye out for it