Sampling Rapid Set Mortar Mix + Concrete Counter Face Coat Pattern TECHNIQUES!

[@lederse]

I used it this weekend. I am posting here so people are aware, the SC and FC can chunk up - not sure which one. The effect is tiny potholes in the surface. this happened on the first batch where I've added the additives in the water... althou happen once on a bucket I added them after half bag of mix.. Overall great experience.

[@tommyeagle5706]

This is the exact kind of video I was looking for, the one where you painted the line or "vein" is the exact one I was looking for I saw another technique where the man poured small amounts of white and black next to it then poured the grey concrete on top of it and around it and after polishing it looked fantastic but what you did there with your paintbrush is a great technique that could be used along with what I just told you. Thank you for your videos the very educational

[@quarrytex8445]

Wish you were right in my shops backyard - excellent tone and training! ty sooooo much

[@guitaronwater9034]

This stuff is fantastic for repair work. I had bricks falling out of my front steps and was unsightly. I simply used it to place the bricks in place and created a stucco smooth front that looks great. I got bids to fix for $500. I fixed it with $50 worth of material and equipment.

[@detroitdiy]

It's uses are endless, it is strong at such a thin layer. Thanks for watching.

[@trappinout18]

Paste wax works great for easy form release.

[@patrickmclaughlin6013]

my votes the swirl one - looks great the painted vain - looks great the solid ones - look nice the splatter one - maybe would look better with some experimentation Thanks for the video!

[@detroitdiy]

Thank you

[@Matasky2010]

A man alone in his garage, just playing around with concrete...as soon as I get my garage I'll be doing the same thing! Love the videos, especially because I can't get these Rapid Set products locally, so I've gotta be sure before I order them...They're expensive (as all hydraulic cements are) but seem worth it for countertops...

[@detroitdiy]

I have seen a video that cuts cement manufacturing did on motar mix where they touch base on counteracts being made with it.

[@pensive69]

Agreed that this is fantastic for repairs and especially anything that needs fixed in a shortened time frame. Agreed that for molding or pouring you'd need both the SetControl and the FlowControl to give the mix and yourself a chance (time and workability) to make and finish the products. If they offered it in a white and a concrete gray product I'd be happier. Your videos are very interesting and well directed.

[@detroitdiy]

Thanks, I try to stay on point.

[@Spad68]

Michael build did a vane pattern . Came out really nice

[@detroitdiy]

I watched that video and I agree, his work is great.

[@mailemoore5017]

Thank you😀

[@detroitdiy]

You are welcome, Thanks for watching.

[@jrjewell1]

Great videos. thank you!

[@detroitdiy]

Thank you, I have enjoyed doing them and hope everyone can take something away to help in the future.

[@DadRandom]

Good experiment 🧪

[@detroitdiy]

Thank you.

[@kavontrades8250]

if we were to try the one with the line would you have to get it all done before it dries? Doing a larger piece may take a while. Love the look.

[@detroitdiy]

It will adhere better to the rest of the mix if it is not completely dry. Maybe break the project down into 2 or 3 pieces. Meaning work on 3 foot sections at a time from one end to the other. Thanks for watching. Will be glad to answer any other questions you may have.

[@ninalott710]

Great video! How soon can you put sealer on? .Do you have to wait for the 28 days curing time for the sealer? How soon can the countertops be used ? Do you have to wait for the 28 day curing? Thank you so much!!!!

[@detroitdiy]

If the countertop is precast you can deal it and use it in about 19 days. It is a different story if it is cast in place.

[@compassandradio6261]

Would you be willing to make a short video showing these samples with sealer applied to them?

[@detroitdiy]

I no longer have those samples.

[@compassandradio6261]

@@detroitdiy that veining turned out really well. Best I've seen. Thank you for the awesome content you provide 👍

[@smilejesuslovesyou8108]

So if you use the rapid mortar mix on counters do you need to use reinforcement with it? Like mesh or something

[@detroitdiy]

Depending on size yes, I used wire mesh in mine. Thanks for watching, If I can help in other way please feel free to ask.

[@michaelkiser7405]

really enjoyed seeing the patterns you made... i recently acquired some Mapei thin set mortar mix... the stuff used to set tile with... but thought i would try it as a pour in place counter top... do yo think this will work? is this brand a good choice? I cant seem to find any information where anyone has used it for this purpose

[@detroitdiy]

The thin set motar mix is not designed to be poured at the thickness required for a countertop, rapid set motar mix is a Mason type motar and can be used for multiple other purposes and possess great strength up to 6 inches thick. Another option i have not explored is quikrete 5000. Thanks for watching.

[@michaelkiser7405]

@@detroitdiy thanks so much for the speedy reply... i was very pleased to find your page and i just love the veining you got with your pours in this video... i guess i wont be using the thin set except just to set my back splash tile.. i am sure my neighbors can also benefit from my bargain find as I got five bags of thin set for seven bucks each today at lowes... the bags had holes n them so they marked them down less than half price... . i may check with our home depot as i think they have a rapid set mortar dunno if they have white or not i do truly want a white countertop thanks again.. .

[@daviddellariva]

Would this mix be strong enough for a cement fireplace hearth? Thank you

[@detroitdiy]

Yes it would, however if it is to exceed the maximum thickness recommend you should use cement all. Made by the same company and both excellent products.

[@daviddellariva]

@@detroitdiy my hearth is 2 to 3 inches thick. Which product would you use for that thickness?? Also do you think the flow control and set control is necessary for a smaller project like this 64in x 24in. I really appreciate it. Great channel keep it up 👍

[@detroitdiy]

I would use the motor mix, and yes i would use set and flow control. It will give you the time you need to get the trapped air out. Makes the project more relaxing. I would do a small sample just to get the feel for how it acts.

[@daviddellariva]

How long do you wait to strip the forms off?? I just made my first cement fireplace hearth and I don’t know how long to wait. Thanks!

[@detroitdiy]

The waiting is the hardest part, Minimum 24 hours with rapid set motar mix. Just be careful when pulling it apart, the forms are on tight.

[@daviddellariva]

@@detroitdiy is it best to unscrew the form completely, or try to pop the form off in one piece?

[@detroitdiy]

I think you will find it easier to take the form apart then remove the pieces.

[@daviddellariva]

@@detroitdiy I have some air bubble holes on the face of my finishing product. I have seen others fix these with a slurry of what I’m assuming is Portland cement. Do you have any recommendations on how to repair these? Thanks again!

[@detroitdiy]

A slurry of portland is the best way to go. You can also use a portland based grout that can be somewhat color matched.

[@ejtolle774]

can you use quikrete color with this rapid set mortar mix?

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

This is an awesome video!!! Mind if I ask... why did you use the RapidSet Motar Mix and not the RapidSet "Cement All"? I looked at the datasheet for both the mortar mix and the Cement All on the CTS Cement website, and as far as I can tell... the Cement All is lighter in color, and cures to 9,000 psi whereas the mortar mix cures to 6,500 psi (both after 28 days). I'd like to make my own counter-top and I want to choose the right product. You may know something I don't, so I thought I'd ask. Thanks for the great video. I just subscribed, so I look fwd to more.

[@detroitdiy]

Thanks for watching, the reason I used rapid set motar mix is because it attaines structure between one half inch and 6 inches. Making it a perfect mix for one and a half inches thick. Cement all attaines structure at 2 inches thick I think. I know it is intended to be poured thicker. That was the sole reason for using motar mix. I hope this helps.

[@detroitdiy]

Michael, I think I confused rapid set cement and cement all in my answer to you. I have been in contact with cts cement and am awaiting an answer. I will post what I get from them. Great question by the way. Thanks

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

@@detroitdiy That is awesome man! I was thinking about reaching out to them too! I know that with things like cement and concrete, certain statistics or figures can look great on a datasheet for a product, but that doesn't necessarily mean what it looks like. For example... when I see "X,xxxx psi"... I find myself just naturally thinking, whichever one with a higher "Compressive strength" must be the better. And... to be honest, that MIGHT be true. But, I can't help but wonder if things like... sand particle size might matter a lot. Or... other aggregates might matter too. Also... to be honest, I am not 100% sure what "Compressive Strength" really means. If you look at the datasheets on the CTS website, they also list a lot of other figures like... Slant Shear Bond... Splitting Tensile... and Flexural Strength. So, while Cement All might be amazing a repairing a crack in the side of a cement building, it might suck at being a countertop, and crack after 2 months, because it was not flexible at all. Or something. Let me know what they say! Thanks for the response.

[@detroitdiy]

Michael, Chris Adams, National sales manager for CTS cement manufacturing corporation sent me back an answer to the question can cement all be used for countertops. " You can use cement all for countertops as well. The difference is the grit of sand which makes up each bag blend. The cement all has a silica sand which is much finer than the plaster sand used in motar mix. Both materials are extremely strong and hold up well to stains and sealers" I hope this clears it all up. Thanks for watching. If you have anymore questions please feel free to ask. My playlist also has videos you may find helpful. Entrapped air will be the biggest battle so make sure you use plenty of set retarder to give you the time to vibrate the mix. Thanks Michael.

[@sgconer744]

@@detroitdiy Based on Michael's question and your response, I am still wondering which product is more suitable for the outdoor table i am building. I'm trying to make a fire pit table as lightly colored as possible so I'm using the same white pigment. It does not need to be pure white. If the cement all is lighter to begin with and a finer sand composition, I'm questioning my original plan to use rapid set mortar mix. I've seen all of your positive reviews and videos about rapid set mortar mix and that had all about made my decision final until I read Michael's question about cement all.

[@chasevictoriano7266]

Was the white True Tone’s too?

[@detroitdiy]

No, I got the white from Amazon. The white is not iron oxide. Just google white concrete pigment and it pops right up. Thanks for watching.

[@72jmunoz]

can you wet sand it to expose aggregate if added

[@detroitdiy]

You can sand it. Diamond sand paper would be required. Thanks for watching.

[@adrianarodriguez6999]

How can I use this product but make my counters a white cement instead of the typical gray? Thanks 😊

[@detroitdiy]

Just use the white pigment, you can find it online. 1 pound to 55 pounds of motor mix.

[@adrianarodriguez6999]

@@detroitdiy sounds great. Thanks so much

[@shawnschiebrel]

I think the reason your blended one didn't appear as blended as you like is, when you first poured the mortar in, you were unable to get that very thin coat of color off the very bottom... therefore your initial surface mimics the exact surface of the bottom of the mold. if you took a concrete grinder and smoothed off a 1/16 or so, I think you would start to see more of a blended or variegated surface come to light. Same thing happened to Michael Builds when he put rocks on the bottom of his mold. When he de-molded, you couldn't see any rocks. He had to grind down a ways before you started to see the embedded rocks.

[@detroitdiy]

Thanks for the input, i also watch Michael build videos. Don't think I have seen that one. I did try again with a video titled how to emulate marble. 3 different pours that turned out pretty cool. Thanks for watching.

[@shawnschiebrel]

@@detroitdiy i will check that out.. that's something I would like to do.

[@cliffdariff74]

Some mortar mix has lots of sand... would this be good for casting faces? Half molds for wall pieces. (Reliefs)

[@detroitdiy]

Sand mixes are fine. Rapid set motar mix uses sand for the aggregate. You want the higher p.s.i materials for strength of the finished product. If you do a face coat and then fill the remainder make sure you get a good bond. Face coat slightly firm but still wet enough to grab on.

[@detroitdiy]

Yes it would be good for casting faces and thinner molds.

[@cliffdariff74]

@@detroitdiy thank you

[@sgconer744]

What white pigment did you use that was left over from your previous project?

[@detroitdiy]

I used titanium dioxide white concrete pigment, I got it from a seller on Amazon. If you have anymore questions please feel free to ask. Thanks for watching the video.

[@detroitdiy]

@Drew Wright yes any will work. 1 lb. Per 55 lbs of concrete mix.

[@sancop]

Wait-That got pretty white!

[@detroitdiy]

The pigments are awsome, i was impressed with the white.

[@sancop]

@@detroitdiy Now I have to rethink everything! (:I am such a YT/DIY junkie!)