SamSon New PB at SCMP - Big Tire Slicks on Radial Prep Track - MSD Rotor Melting Issues Please Help!

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KevinWilsonSBC

KevinWilsonSBC

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 38
@conniekahl8015
@conniekahl8015 Жыл бұрын
Good job on PB and on your self,.Your looking good man!
@johnrobinson7980
@johnrobinson7980 Жыл бұрын
Check gap on crank trigger . Had similar issues
@a2zpreps658
@a2zpreps658 Жыл бұрын
I love your videos and depth of explanation you give. You don't just say how your adjustments affect things but explain why. This truly empowers others to make educated, calculated decisions. Initial thought on rotor button problem is some ground/ground loop issue. Maybe research the terms star ground and floating ground. The importance of good grounds is so often under estimated. Primary voltage should use a star ground IMO. A common example is trailer wiring. Some will rely on the ball to provide trailer ground. Some will tie the truck connector to the chassis with a bolt. Others will run a wire from the battery ground to the truck connector. The last is the most reliable and an example of a star ground. Secondary voltage is created in the coil, travels through the coil wire to the rotor and from rotor it is distributed to each plug wire and corresponding plug, jumps the gap in plug and finally sinking the secondary voltage to ground through the plug to head connection/threads. So, the only potential ground for secondary voltage should be the plugs following that path. And all of their ground potentials should be nearly identical (which becomes obvious below). A rotor out of phase can cause the secondary voltage to have to jump further than it should from rotor button to plug terminals in the cap. This can cause lots of issues from excessive heat to misfiring. If it's out bad enough the distance/degrees on either side of the rotor (the plug it just fired or should fire next and the one it should be firing now) could be nearly equal. If your doing any digital timing manipulation it could all get tricky. With a V8 you only have 45 degrees of rotor rotation per cylinder minus some degrees to insure the path of least resistance is the plug you want to fire. Say you run a max total advance of 40 degrees and you have 20 degrees of digital retard while cranking. If the coil fires when the rotor is exactly aligned with the center of the plug post with no digital manipulation its perfect. But when you add 20 degrees of digital retard you are now firing 20 degrees from that. This also means the rotor is only 25 degrees away from perfect for a neighboring plug post in the cap. Not much room for error. What happens in this scenario if the ground potential of the plug connected to the post that is 25 degrees from perfect is a fraction better than the ground potential of the plug that is 20 degrees from perfect? Advances that use mechanical manipulation come with their own problems but can buy you some distance/wiggle room. Individual coils are immune to this issue all together. The car is looking awesome too!
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
Thank-you! Great info and explanation! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@a2zpreps658
@a2zpreps658 Жыл бұрын
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks, congratulations on your health improvements too! Really enjoying that.
@keysautorepair6038
@keysautorepair6038 Жыл бұрын
I noticed when I bought a new msd rotor it was made like this a hole in the center my old one doesn't have one so guess what I didn't use it glad I didn't.
@BroomysGarage
@BroomysGarage Жыл бұрын
What do you log with the fueltech ? Rpm, Driveshaft speed, accel g force, shock travel ? Would be good to see driveshaft and accel g force comparisons as well with changes made run to run.
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
The FT 550 has a gmeter built in so I log that, pitch angle, RPM, Boost, EGTs on all 8, oil pressure, water temp and fuel pressure at the distribution block on the back of the hat. More sensors around shocks and driveshaft speed in the works. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@jeffdean1878
@jeffdean1878 Жыл бұрын
I’m sure you have checked but the only time I had that problem was the rotor was out of phase. Maybe it’s out at idle as most set it at full advance which would be correct. Car looked good!
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
Thanks! I will be confirming the phasing for sure!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@bryanmorris7052
@bryanmorris7052 10 ай бұрын
This is the answer right here the only way that much heat is building up is if the spark is jumping too far
@keithgriffith6002
@keithgriffith6002 Жыл бұрын
Think I would check the dwell.
@AustinBoil
@AustinBoil Жыл бұрын
Just use a matchbook cover like we did in the old days. 🤣🤣🤣
@redslewis4058
@redslewis4058 Жыл бұрын
Had the same issue. I figured out my ignition was firing before the rotor reached the terminals in my cap. May or may not be your issue. The 2 pickup wires to the distributor to the box will retard timing if backwords. Mine was wired as per msd. But, apparently wrong and retarding my timing. All I did was flip the wires and it advanced my timing and never had another issue.
@redslewis4058
@redslewis4058 Жыл бұрын
Oops, meant advanced. Hope you get what I mean. Lol
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
I fixed it by phasing the distributor. It was firing past the post, which was creating a bunch of heat and pulling the rotor button back toward the post. Thanks for commenting!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@paullatham3411
@paullatham3411 Жыл бұрын
As to the rotor bug, the primary voltage is not the concern. It’s the secondary voltage causing the issue. What’s your spark plug gap? Shrinking your gap should help reduce the voltage (heat) jumping to the cap terminals. I’ve been down to .022” to fix misfire and heat issues in my distributor. Or, your could upgrade to independent coils. Cheers!
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
Good info! Currently running .026" gap, but I will bring them down to .024". I just don't understand why some caps last fine and then others melt even during an idle warm-up, but your info makes sense!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@jeffreylong1841
@jeffreylong1841 Жыл бұрын
@@KevinWilsonSBC Take your plug gap down to .018 you won't have a problem. Top Fuelers run at .011. On my turbo Drag Radial car equipped with an MSD 8 I run .018 at about 1700 hp.
@toddsculley2710
@toddsculley2710 Жыл бұрын
Sounds like a bad connection even though it was tight arcing and got hot and melted
@shawnwieser7101
@shawnwieser7101 Жыл бұрын
Another great video... I noticed you do a dry burnout before water box... I assume that's to clean tires because track is sticky? A video on turning using tire pressure would be great too... you talk about not having too much tire pressure on tall end in this video could you elaborated more... i believe there are some tuning points with the front tire pressure too?
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
The dry burnout is to clean off the tires, grass and dirt, so I don't carry that trash into the water box before my main burnout. I will get a video out on tire pressure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@1320wolf
@1320wolf Жыл бұрын
We melted a rotor when our balancer key broke. Car ran good, then not good, then good. The relationship between the trigger wheel and distributor changed and caused it to fire out of phase.
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
I will definitely confirm phasing. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@mk-xg2kt
@mk-xg2kt Жыл бұрын
gap. you kan gain some on gap. but easily lose a lot. Of course, I'm not sure I'm right in your case. but know that if you have a small gap, the ignitoin parts will last longer than if you have a large gap. the energy has to go somewhere
@flinch622
@flinch622 10 ай бұрын
I can't speak to msd gear, but generally insulation materials failure begins with overheating, and primarily those incidents are brought about by loose or dirty/corroded connections. Guessing by how that tip is attached, I wonder about surface area as joined. Absence or loss of flatness between joined parts is lost surface area, which may cause overheating. If you have an IR camera, basic guidelines fall in 3 categories regarding temperature rise over ambient: 30C= trouble starting: watch, but should be ok a little while before corrective action is taken. 45C=action must be taken: one or two months left [maybe]. 60C=repair now: failure is imminent. The nature of a distributor is its own problem - can't use these cameras with accuracy on things in motion - gotta catch it immediately after shutdown.
@Nobody-ld7mk
@Nobody-ld7mk Жыл бұрын
Any electrical problems, I always go after all ground to chassis connections. Re-Seeding is the terminology for connectors, before the car goes to the track first time every season... re-seed all connections. (dis-connect re-connect all connectors) Brake, line-lock, battery to chassis... everything.
@garyrisley3781
@garyrisley3781 Жыл бұрын
OK so what did MSD say ???
@AustinBoil
@AustinBoil Жыл бұрын
A couple of things. You said the track had radial prep. (my pet peeve is why do radials require a special prep if they are supposedly a superior tire? Why do they always complain about running during the day or warm temps if it's superior? Run the same for everyone.) I digress. 😎😎😎 With a tight track you said it chattered the tires which you can see in the video. You want to take away some bite to get the slick moving instead of shaking from too much bite. You mentioned you added tire pressure. That ADDS bite, the opposite of what it's asking for until you get too much air & the tire is convex & riding on the center of the tire only. It's a myth you can't lower the pressure because the car will become unstable. I've run 34.5 slicks down to 4 1/2 lbs with no issue to gain wheelspeed at the hit. On a Ok track they would be 5.5 to 5.7 lbs. By lowering the pressure, it allows the tire to cup slightly to remove a little bite. It won't be unstable down track unless you get way out in left field with low pressure. On the shock adjustment side, to take away bite (either on a very tight track or at night when the track temp drops & it gets tight) a typical move would be to tighten Compression and loosen Rebound which allows the back of the car to come back up sooner which in turn takes away some bite as it moves down track. 2-3 clicks will make a move but not drastic. To add bite you do the opposite, loosen the Compression & tighten the Rebound which holds the back down longer. Don't be afraid to use the bars to get a little wheelspeed at the hit, that's what they are there for. Too low & they will lift the back enough to go into spin, it's a fine line but it works. A lot of people forget to use them as a chassis tuning tool. I know I've preached it before about shock sensors but it's the only way to really know what those changes are making as every set of shocks & car setup is different. It's only $$$ 🤣 On the MSD cap, that looks like a mechanical failure that got the rotor contact off enough to cause heating from the gap to the cap increasing. What plug wires & plugs are you running? I'm no expert but that's my $.02 for what it's worth, you are making good progress & not afraid to make testing changes, that's how you do it. Good job!
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
I absolutely went the wrong way on tire pressure!! Great point! Good info in this comment Austin!! Thank-you, Sir! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@AustinBoil
@AustinBoil Жыл бұрын
@@KevinWilsonSBC One more comment. If the tire chatter at the hit was the only place it ratttled, then you just need some slip at the hit which you can get with pressure or wheelie bars. If it's rattling the tires in the shake zone (1 sec - 1-3 sec) then the shock adjustment I mentioned above will help. You probably have seen the air dump you can add to your Penske's, that you program. The purpose is to launch with the tight Rebound, then dump the air which releases Rebound (typically .75 or so right before the shake zone to help reduce or eliminate the shake) Cheers, Mike
@truthboomertruthbomber5125
@truthboomertruthbomber5125 Жыл бұрын
IMO, you should go straight to crank fire with individual coils. You are likely running locked out timing anyway so your new distributorless magic box would be pretty simple aka cheap.
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC Жыл бұрын
Spot on... I need to switch over to coil on plugs for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@markgiraldes4062
@markgiraldes4062 Жыл бұрын
Maybe a defective battery on off switch ? 🤔
@RiversideRacecraft
@RiversideRacecraft Жыл бұрын
Definitely plug gap causing that. Tighten your gap considerably. .015 or less. too much Air gap in that much cylinder pressure is causing too much resistance. That will eventually burn up your coil as well.
@craigbowers4047
@craigbowers4047 Жыл бұрын
Just a guess, the crossover voltage requirement at the plug is high, to much antiseize or oil on the plug can insulate the plug. Personally, I think the copper based 3M antisieze is more conductive than the common nickel based stuff and a tiny bit goes a long way. If you're using copper washers they need to be clean. FYI Scott Wires has a pretty good low resistance plug wire, and it seems plug manufacturers are having more issues with quality. I would definitely check your rotor phasing at the minimum and maximum timing you run. I think the rotor is trying to tell you something is unhappy on the secondary side. I'd also check that the timing mark on the plug corollates with what you have dialed in. Good luck getting the issue resolved.
@patrickwendling6759
@patrickwendling6759 6 ай бұрын
Cheap plastic??. China copy??
@KevinWilsonSBC
@KevinWilsonSBC 6 ай бұрын
It was a phasing issue, so that was/is on me. When I ran the MSD ignition through the Fueltech it introduced a very slight delay in triggering the box. That put the rotor just past the post on the cap. When I put my phasing cap on it and checked it, I had to rotate the distributor to put the rotor back lined up on the post. That explains why I never had that issue until I switched the MSD over to be triggered by the ECU. Not an issue with the ECU at all, just the nature of introducing an ECU in the middle of the MSD CD box. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
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