Samsung FDBM evap heater add

This video is meant for professional appliance technicians.
Supco heaters - 120 VAC ONLY! 15 watt heaters:
www.amazon.com...
www.amazon.com...
Zip Ties, (220 degree F):
www.anixter.co...
www.amazon.com...
Silicone Grease:
Samsung Drain Kit:
partsdr.com/pa...
Displacement Connectors:
www.zoro.com/3...

[@DIYhandyguy]

Thanks so much for this solution. I was getting tired of manually defrosting the fridge every 2 months to get rid of ice buildup and noisy evaporator fan that was hitting the ice. I almost ordered a new fridge then saw your video. I ordered from Amazon Canada the Supco series sh201 15 watts braided aluminum heater because it was longer & covered all the unheated coils at the top. I also ordered from Amazon the high temp zip ties. I has been over 5 months now of trouble free operation. Thanks again.

[@madmike4]

My fridge is still kicking ass ever since I did what this guy is showing you. Listen to him he knows his shit. Thanks again and keep up the great work.

[@elmaico9753]

How long has its been working?

[@nsw8148]

You are the man! I have been frustrated with my fridge since it started acting up in the first year of having it, have had a few appliance techs out to check it out since it's been under warranty, but nobody could provide a long term fix. I did this and have had a normal fridge for months now, I am so grateful to you that I cant even really put it into words. I feel like a 6 year stress has been lifted, thank you again!

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Good to hear. I have been doing this repair going on 4 years with very high success rate.

[@shaeff865]

Just going to drop this in here even though it'll get lost in the comments. This video was posted for refrigerators that run on 120v. If you live in Australia, the UK, or anyplace else that uses 220/240v, you will need a different heater rated for that voltage and 15w. If you run the 120VAC heaters on 240v, you'll be twice as hot as it should be and cause overheating issues. This video is fantastic, ordered the parts and can't wait to get my fridge fixed once and for all.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

thanks, I had added the 120 vac only to my video description above the links for the parts.

[@cgomnaes]

Thanks! It wold be great with a link to an equivalent 220v cable. I have looked around, but no luck!

[@TIGERGAMERSEXE]

Outstanding! I was down to about once a week hearing the fan hitting ice. Forced defrost lasts about 2 days. Horribly designed fridge in so many ways, but the icing issue is by far the worst. Putting the ice maker in the fridge was dumb too. I used sealant at the seems of that to contain the freezing air. Bravo!!

[@arod5215]

My fridge would not get as cold as I wanted it too but my freezer would I bought everything shown on this video and my god it’s working like a charm. Thanks for the video my guy! You saved me a good amount of cash. When I removed the panel there was ice everywhere including inside the fan..

[@photopayne]

Thank you for posting this excellent info...it was exactly the problem in our Samsung and after 4 weeks since doing the new heater wire, no problems with the freezing fan so far. Much appreciated.

[@bluelazer6821]

This is a clever and sensible solution to the frost issue. Your installation process, workmanship and guide all very well done. In my opinion the best video on YT to address the Samsung icing with a viable solution. I'll be doing today to my RF23HCED. Thanks very much

[@tnlc8854]

Great video, permanent fix! Installed this a year ago. No more icing issue. Problem solved. Thank you!

[@michaelanderson4891]

I've been fighting this stupid problem in my fridge for over a year now. I ordered the SUP201 (all I could find). Thanks so much for posting this! I look forward to trying it!

[@MikeKapotsy]

Work for you or not? Didn't solve the problem for me.

[@allenwilson6585]

thanks, that should solve my final problem. I found that the foam across from the evaporator gets water logged, freezes and stops the defrost process. when the foam get water logged again after a replacement, it goes back to freezing up. I ran it for over a year with no problems by removing the foam and just having the aluminum plate bare. but still got freeze up in the top. thank you for posting this fix.

[@plainoldme7322]

Wish you would show zoomed in pic of which wire (color) you are splicing onto, or state it in video

[@gregbgregb8487]

Brown

[@weserlywinds]

I did this fix mid March 2021 after trying other fixes such as moving the sensor to other pies ect. but felt it was worth reporting that it has not frozen up again up to this point mid may (2 months). I have a blue tooth temp sensor in the fridge and the temp fluctuations are acceptable and consistent. The last time I defrosted with out adding this heater fix, it didn't last a month before freezing up again. I have not taken apart the fridge again just to check the build up as there is such a bad history when I take off the back panel but would love to check what is actually happening back there but I don't want to rock the boat. If I do I will report back. Thanks for the video! Really appreciate it! Edit, end of june 2021 - still no issues after performing this fix! Edit - Jan 2022 the fan just started to click again and ice is visible through the center set of holes at the back. I will tear apart one of these days and make sure I have my heat line in the correct spot. I can observe ice and where it is not melting. It's been just about 1 year so this is great! Edit - end of Jan 2022. FORCED DEFROST IS ALL I NEED TO SAY. So instead of tearing apart the fridge again I used the forced defrost feature for 20 or so minutes and then unplugged the fridge to stop the process. Plugged it back in after a min or so. There was no visible difference right away on the ice coming through the center holes. But over the next few days that ice slowly started to look different and looked smaller and looked as if it was melting. So I ran forced defrost again for 20 min. And today the ice that was coming through the middle sets of holes is nearly gone! Super happy! My theory is that the frost found a small area that is not heated enough or for enough time to melt it all away and that frost area was able to "crawl" around the new heating line and keep building up on it self making its way to where the holes are and apart to show it self. With a forced defrost cycle or 2 it broke the frost building snake and has melted away! I will just use the fd feature once a month ti stay on top of it. Here's to a great fix and another few years with this really badly made samsung fridge. I'll keep you all posted as I know how annoying this fridge is to everyone.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I went back out on one after 2 years, and found no frost build up. If you do this repair correctly, there shouldn't be any problems.

[@stephenkusen8730]

What was your symptom of the freezing problem? Was ice building up in the ice maker compartment as the overage from the ice tray couldn’t drain out properly?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@stephenkusen8730 this repair is not for the icemaker issue. it's for frost build up in the evaporator fan area in the fresh food, the frost causes the fan to stop and warm up the compartment.

[@MikeKapotsy]

@@electronicsprojects4708 I followed your repair to a tee and while it worked briefly it began freezing up again.

[@weserlywinds]

@@stephenkusen8730 no it was not cooling in the fridge area. The fan would start to click because it was hitting frost build up and then the fridge wouldn't cool

[@RavindranathRamnath]

Your procedure to repair this annoying, stressful and time-consuming problem is ingenious. This will save folks a lot of stress and money, including myself, since I was about to get rid of my Samsung refrigerator and replace with a GE. Your instructions while demonstrating the procedure was excellent. I followed it to the T but I still had a problem. The heater was not getting hot after I turned back on the fridge after the installation. The only thing that I did differently was use the red wire splice (11-18 GA AWG) instead of the blue splice (18-14 GA AWG). I acquired these from Harbor Frieght. The problem I had with the blue splices was that after crimping with the pliers, the heater wire kept falling out of the splice. When I switched to the red splices, the splice trapped the wire and, even when I tugged on it, it never came out. My question: Is there a problem using the red splice since you used the blue splice and the installation worked fine?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

different companies make different connectors, so one may work for me and not you even with same color. Use the one that when you pull on the wire, it won't get dislodged. The defrost won't kick on if the evaporator is too warm, sensed by the defrost sensor on the right. You may have to either freeze spray it, or just use the fridge and if it fails again, address it at that time. This video is meant for techs that have done the necessary troubleshooting already to confirm all other standard repairs are not necessary and this re-engineering is a last resort to the frost build up.

[@jimmoore7442]

So far so good for me. One exception is i used sh201 and when I attached heater i put it to close to the thermistor. Had a call back on that one. Otherwise Ive done a half dozen others will great results to date. Thanks for the tip Mike.

[@AndyPanda9]

What are the symptoms seen when the thermistor is too close to the new heater? How far away does it need to be?

[@spongaweb]

Very nice and detailed install with a good close-up shot. Installed today and tested to see if it warms, which it does. Hoping my sensor is still working and ordered one to replace it incase. Nothing but problems and icing over my fan area.

[@elmaico9753]

Thanks for the steps and links! Did this and so far it’s been two months it’s would freeze every 30 days. Hopefully it stays working.

[@DukeFerris]

Just ordered the parts. Thanks. This problem has been plaguing me for years. Tried the drain wire fix. tried insulating the upper coolant line. Nothing worked. This looks promising. I'm going to secure the heater with some 14ga copper wire instead of zip ties, based on the comments about burning smells.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If you get high-heat zip ties, it's no issue. At 160 degrees, you won't have any burning smells. If someone uses the incorrect wattage heater, I could see that causing smells.

[@jstutz101]

Just finished installing the supplemental heater per your video. Install went smooth. Tested the new defrost heater and it definitely got warm. Thanks for help!

[@kevinturner2258]

Would you share the code sequence to force the defrost cycle and test it while the cover is off?

[@e.shealer2417]

Ok, so I just ordered all the parts...wish me luck! Thank you so much! I appreciate your time and knowledge.

[@sbr38]

How did it go? I have the same issue

[@e.shealer2417]

@Sid Bharij it went well. I had no problems installing it. So far, it is good, but time will tell if I get ice build up again. I did everything exactly how it was explained in this video. I will have to wait at least 3-4 months to see if I hear the fan clanging again the ice. If I get any ice build up at all. I have my fingers crossed...

[@lewisvilleclemmons]

@@e.shealer2417 any update?

[@e.shealer2417]

@@lewisvilleclemmons I'm sry to say, but no. I have resorted to hitting the Forced Defrost button every month.

[@e.shealer2417]

@@lewisvilleclemmons oh,Im sry, I do have problems, I thought u were asking about another part I installed. I did have the ice come back after about 3 months then I install the part for the drainage hole, but it makes no difference. Samsung sold all of us a fridge which they knew was poorly designed... I think a class action law suit should be taken up.

[@1898PR]

Thank you. Very helpfull proffessional video. Straight to the point.

[@theRileyHamilton]

This video will make me a super hero! Can't wait. Thanks for posting

[@electronicsprojects4708]

lol

[@mikemartin347]

Thanks for the information. I just followed your process today on my RF323TEDSBR after once again hearing the fan thumping due to ice build up. I last had to open it up and melt ice buildup on March 28th 2021, then before that on Sept 6th, 2020. We'll see how it goes!

[@bobchin6555]

Hi, any luck with this?

[@videoaccount5676]

So, How it's going?

[@mitsuturbo]

How'd it go?

[@mikemartin347]

Well, a month ago everything was frozen up again. Adding the new heating element helped with a quicker forced defrost but for me did not stop the main problem. I may get around this by periodically forcing a defrost cycle.

[@jasb1133]

@@mikemartin347 could it be an issue with the thermistor where it is not turning on the heating element?

[@khilinski9906]

Those iced over coils look exactly like what we just found when we took off the back panel. While defrosting, found out the drain was frozen too. Thanks for the information, going to try fixing this week.

[@madmike4]

I want to thank you also for a great video and great idea. This solved my problem .3 months and going strong. I must have torn my fridge apart 4 times in under a month and replaced everything that they say might be causing the problem and nothing worked. i was still getting ice build up on evaporator fan. Driving me crazy and ready to give up on Samsung but Thanks to you its working fantastic. I appreciate you posting your ideas to help people out and saving them money. Keep up the good work and happy holidays my friend.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Glad it worked for you, I have gone back on one's I had put in after a couple of years and found no abnormal frost build up. It took a lot of time and effort to come up with the solution because you have to understand the system first, then the flaw in design to come up with a working solution. Cheers.

[@chilitoday]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Nice video. What do you think about wrapping the 502 using 14 ga copper wire instead of ties?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@chilitoday as long as it's insulated and snug fit, I don't see a problem, you can also wrap the heater like a snake around the suction line, this was a mod suggested by another tech to save zip ties.

[@Cumbiafan60]

My Samsung French door never froze around the fan but the drain hole was freezing. I bought the revised (longer) OEM drain heater probe and drain still froze. Together with the heater Probe I added a 10 inch long copper wire, wrapped around the heater element a couple of times and feed it through the drain hole for about 7 in. also lowered the heating element down slightly closer to the drain hole. It has been about a year and no more ice buildup. It took 2 full days to melt the ice in the drain line where i could feed a thick trimmer line all the way from the drain hole to the container back behind the fridge on the bottom. Vacuumed and cleaned the cores, cleaned both drain tubes as well. I had tried many different things before with no luck. Also lost 3 icemaker buckets where the blade flexes and gets trapped behind a metal shield.$100 bucket gone. So took apart the last broken bucket and saw how close the blade is engineered to the shield. So took apart the new bucket and bend the inner blade 1/4" away from the shield. Works like a charm for almost 3 years now.

[@doyourbest7655]

Silicone grease also used for automotive light bulbs so check your local automotive parts store as a source as well. 👍

[@dommed2978]

Very good video, thanks a lot! I have that problem in my samsung fridge so I willl tray this myself! Thanks so much again!

[@_abbilina_]

Wish me luck I’m going to try this.

[@21csilva]

how do yo turn on the heater mode without the fan a nd thermosta conectedfrom the front panelbeen connected?

[@dirkpeterson1855]

I did this fix and tested the coil and it heated properly. The light was on when I put the cover back on but now the fridge light does not go on when I open the door. Is it possible that one of the plugs came loose? Or what could be the cause for the light to no longer go on? Thanks for the video. It was a pain to fix but doable and saved me a fortune. Thank you again!

[@electronicsprojects4708]

There's no wiring back there that is related to the lights on the french door models. If it's a side by side, on some models there are led light connectors. I assume yours is French door. The most common problem for lights not working properly is a connection issue on top of the fridge at the hinges, not inside the fridge. If the heater was not tied correctly to the right wires, and you tied it into the low voltage section, I could see that messing up the lighting. That being said, I don't have a model number so I can't get any more specific.

[@dirkpeterson1855]

Turns out the lights appear to go out until the fridge is cool again. I checked in the morning and the lights were back on. Yay, thanks for all your help.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

some models that have incandescent bulbs have a heat limiter, so if the lights are on too long, they won't turn back on until the safety thermostat drops below a certain temperature. Those I see a lot on LG, not on Samsung. The Samsungs do have a standard timer that times out if the doors are open too long, but it doesn't have to do with it cooling down again.

[@dirkpeterson1855]

I did this fix and it has been about a month but unfortunately, the ice ticking noise is back which means it didn't work for me for some reason. I turned on the auto defrost 4 times yesterday with no impact. I am thinking the defrost sensor may be bad and the coil is not getting activated even though I felt heat from it during the initial install. Or perhaps the defrost heater itself does not work; there was ice all over it when I opened the fridge up last time. Or perhaps the ice that is the problem is encrouching from above where the heating cable is not. Do you have any suggestions about what I should try next?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@dirkpeterson1855 if the frost is built up equally from top to bottom of the evaporator, the defrost is not working. If there is only a chunk of frost built up in the fan housing area, then do a manual defrost and check to make sure the added heater is heating up. If it's not, the instal of the heater was done improperly. If it is heating up, you could have a sealed system failure, where it's cooling inefficiently, causing the frost to build up.

[@benzonaruckus13]

Did you have a link to the zip ties you use?

[@1painter4hire]

Very Nice of you to post this Sir , Thank You

[@stefang4495]

Would this work on a Samsung RF26HFENDSR/AA? I purchased the Samsung Drain Kit and applied it. The fridge still freezes but there is no icing on the vent ports. It freezes in the middle and toward the bottom of the panel.

[@janedoe5712]

How much did that cost you?

[@dommed2978]

Question Sr., Could I use any other sylicone grease? cause that one I can't get it as soon as I need it

[@electronicsprojects4708]

yes, as long as it is rated for cold temps. you can look up the data sheet online.

[@CW-wv4mt]

What if you just insulated the same little section of copper tubing that you attached the new heater to? Souldn't that also stop the ice build up??? HD sells 1/8" insulation tape made for refrigerant lines...

[@electronicsprojects4708]

give it a go

[@TanyaDutoit-hf4wc]

Hi I have a Samsung fridge and it's not cooling on top but freezer works what do u think is works it's been like this for two weeks please help

[@johnschnittker439]

I am not clear regarding wiring connections, understand parallel , but in video I do not see location of thermostat sensor that turn s coils on/off, in relation to added heater.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

wiring will differ depending on model you are working on. add it in parallel to the defrost heater wires on each side as in video. as long as you don't put the heater next to the sensor, you are ok.

[@eyip5261]

Hi great video , was wondering does the secondary heater work with RF268ABRS Samsung Fridge? After opening the panel , it doesn’t seem to have the connectors on the right side as shown on your video.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

if you don't see a 2nd loop (freon line) as in my video, (top right copper tube) then you have other issues. I have not needed to put the heater in one of those. I recommend calling a pro tech that can diagnose it in person that knows these Samsung refrigerators.

[@dimon3395]

What if the defrost heater is not functioning? Will this added Supco heater still fix the issue? I saw in other video that you should check resistance and make sure the heating element is not burned out. Thanks

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If the only frost you have built up is at the very top, the defrost is not the problem. If you have frost top to bottom on the evaporator, the defrost circuit needs to be diagnosed. That would be an unrelated failure.

[@invitationsetc]

So where did you put the thermister after you finished adding the Supco heater?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I do not move it from its original location. No issues.

[@eclipse0071]

So my samsung fridge is having some frost issues. I opened it up, replaced the drain piece, that didn't do anything. Still freezing and what I'm noticing is that there are chunk of ice on the bottom side behind the drawers. Not sure why there are ice buildup on the outside down there? Please advise.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

The video is for technicians, I recommend calling a professional to diagnose it that has experience with these refrigerators.

[@peterpoggi8763]

Hi, There is another video on you tube that claims this problem was fixed long term by using spray closed cell foam to cover the refridgerant tubing leading to the evaporator. Doing this blocks moist air from coming in contact with the cold tubing and the foams insulting properties keep the exterior of the foam above the freezing point of water. Any comments / thoughts on this approach? Pete

[@electronicsprojects4708]

More than one way to skin a cat. I have only used the method I posted, about 4 years now and have had good results. I would say it's over 95% successful, with only those that have a serious sealed system failure, like a restriction or inefficient compressor, that this heater can't overcome. I know of other techs that use the heater method and have reported their techs doing thousands with very good results as well. I have not tried the method described, but I am familiar with the method. I see no reason to change my approach.

[@davisgrier5162]

Installed this several weeks ago and the ice build up returned. I forced the defrost mode and it doesn't warm up at all. Any ideas on what's causing that?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If the defrost heater is working, but the new add on heater is not working, most likely the connectors are not tight.

[@frankcronin1060]

not sure if I need the extra heater , but the temperature in Samsung fridge will go from 34 to 48 in a half hour, and repeat. It is set at 35 degrees . Freezer was set at 0 degrees , but actually read - 10degrees . So I set freezer at 5 degrees , and the freezer seems ok , but I am concerned about the range of temperatures in the fridge section

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If too much frost builds up on top of the evaporator, it will hit the fan and you will hear a loud noise that stops when you open the door. If it's enough frost to build up to stop the fan, usually the temps will read 60 plus degrees on the middle shelves. Opening and closing the doors will affect the temp reading so do a temp reading 1st thing in the morning before anyone has opened the fridge. Do this for a few days to get the average temp of the fridge.

[@frankcronin1060]

@@electronicsprojects4708 hi , I'm using a thermometer that sends the temperature to a base outside the fridge . there is like a half hour cycle where the temp will go from 34 to 49 degrees with the doors closed the whole time and repeat . How can the temperature go up and down 14 degrees with the doors shut ? Milk has not gone bad, but I'm starting to get concerned about this . Are there sensors I should be looking at ? Thank you

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@frankcronin1060 if it goes through a defrost cycle, there will be a 30 minute time frame with no cooling. My recommendation is to get an averaging thermometer, not an instantaneous thermometer. Food will see the average, so it's the most important. This is beyond the scope or purpose of this video, which is an add on heater. This won't be of help for you.

[@frankcronin1060]

@@electronicsprojects4708 I appreciate your help . I had water in my crisper drawer. I took off the cover and found ice all around the drain and tray below coils . So I thawed out the drain and cleared up the tray .( a couple times ), I found the freezer was set to 0 degrees , but found it read -10 degrees . So I reset the temperature for the freezer to 5 degrees , and found the temperature actually to be 0 degrees , but for the first time I found ice blocks formed above the coils . So , I'm thinking the added heater may help ? And , would a temperature range of 15 degrees be ok in the fridge section ?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@frankcronin1060 the add on heater is for frost build up by the fan. If you need to address the drain clogging up, there's a drain kit for that, I'm sure there are multiple videos for this you can try.

[@gueritovera]

Hi, I purchased the wire and followed your steps for installation, but the wire did not heat up. Any idea as to why the wire is not heating up? Samsung - RF261BEAESR. Thanks!

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I would recommend calling a professional technician to assist you in this repair.

[@jasonpatterson947]

Any update on lawsuit against Samsung on these ?

[@luisflores7587]

I'm having this same issue both the drain and fan are freezing over. It happens about every 2-3months. I have a Samshng Model RS2544SL. I checked everything. Everything else on the fridge is good. I will be adding the drain kit. Which my fridge does not have at all. My question is this my model fridge also looks different once I open the back of the inside of the fridge. Will this work for my model fridge and if so where exactly is best to install it?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I have not had to instal the heater on a side by side Samsung. On those, I find the drain gets clogged and I do use the Samsung drain kit, very common. Also, clean out the condenser compartment, (including all vents inside and underneath) That makes the fridge more efficient and less prone to frost up again. You want to make sure that once you defrost the drain, you can power a glass of water in the pan and it flows all the way through the drain with no problem. I also widen the hole in the drain pan for the drain. It has a metal grid I don't like. I just make it into a round hole like a normal pan from other manufacturers. I use needle nose pliers for that. Make sure you clear ALL the frost from the cover (taking the fan housing apart to do so) and especially the top of the evaporator around the fan area. Easiest if you just unplug and let it defrost with the doors open for 4-5 days. It saves time in the defrost process. I don't have the luxury of that option with my customers, lol. But if it's a garage fridge, no big deal.

[@bX-rk2oo]

So how long should this model last? We've had ours for 12 years and the problem with the ice build up under the drawer is just starting. Should I buy a new Fridge or try the fix in the video?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

It's probably towards the end of life, maybe you can get it to 15 or 16 years, odds are against any longer than that. New fridges are worse though.

[@aivandivad]

Where is the correct placement for the thermistor now that a heater was added?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Just make sure it's to the right, not next to the heater and you will be ok. I find that the placement is makes no difference. Samsung has changed it, then changed it back. If you get it above the uppermost fins, you will be good.

[@aivandivad]

10-4 thanks Mike!

[@applianceprofessionals8016]

The issue I'm having with this is when the unit goes into defrost the suction line is not freezing because compressor is not running, I'm confused on how this is supposed to prevent ice build up around evaporator fan motor especially since ice builds up due to warm air being sucked in by the fan motor and not a defrost issue. Another issue is the original heater pulls a certain current and adding additional heater without slight voltage adjustment will affect how this unit works. Please explain

[@electronicsprojects4708]

since the heaters are in parallel, you have the same voltage across both heating elements, 120vac. the added heater heats the suction line that has frost build up on it already, it melts it, that way it can't build up into the evaporator fan motor housing. the moisture build up can be caused by a drain issue, which needs to be rectified (vast majority) or long compressor run times due to a sealed system failure.

[@Cat_Gamer_Official]

Hi.Great video man.A perfect solution to the eternal problem with defrost. And why did not Samsung do that? Can't or doesn't want to? And another question interests me ... how many watts in power does this heater have? Can the relay withstand the extra load? But anyway...Thank you so much !

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Thanks, Ivan, 15 watt heater, the lower defrost heater is around 100 watts, so that totals 115 watts, lowest relay I have seen on these is 3 amps @ 250vac, so that is 750 watts, plenty of headroom.

[@e.shealer2417]

Well, I added the heater, 2 months later, fan noise appears...any suggestions

[@davidwatson6228]

I am wondering what part I would use on my Samsung fridge in Australia, ours run on 240V.. any ideas…? Mine is an SRF752DSS

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I am not familiar with 240v drain heaters, where you could get them. I assume you can, since they are very common in commercial applications. You want a 15 watt heater, should get to 160 or 170 degrees F.

[@TahliaJustice]

Every time it heats up all I can smell is burnt plastic. I have taken the cover off and it's burnt the plastic around the fan and the foam on the back of the cover. What do yo8 recommend for this?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

What was the part number you used for the add on heater. I only recommend SH201 or SH502 Supco heater. You won't get any smell with these. If you use others, they may be too high wattage.

[@robertoice5880]

What the part # for the heater?

[@Trilandun]

Supco SH502

[@elmaico9753]

Can you check via touch if the original samsung defrost is working using the “rd” forced code?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

You can test it in forced mode, but the defrost sensor must be cold or control will not start the defrost process.

[@threedog22]

I just ordered the sh 201 for a unit I'm working on, and I'm wondering why Supco says the heater cannot be cut or spliced in any way?

[@fitchburgjay]

You can't cut the heater or splice it. But the lead wires can certainly be cut. Supco assumes you know the difference between the heater and the lead wires.

[@shanepat2161]

do you think the SUPCO SH540 Drain heater (25 watt) would be too much for my Samsung Fridge RF26J7500SR/AA. ? I like this heater as it is longer than the SH502 heater.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I have had success with SH502, you can cut the heat shrink off of it to double its length. Or buy the SH201. If it gets too hot, it can cause damage to the cover or liner, I have tried hotter heaters as the SH201 and SH502 have worked just fine for me.

[@shanepat2161]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Ok, thanks.

[@mr_blue_falcon]

I need to replace the entire assembly and I'm having issues getting the soldered water lines off, any help?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Hire a professional

[@frankish5314]

Hmm I came across your video because I have a Kitchenaid twin evaporator model and the evaporator on the refrigerator continues to frost up, but the freezer side is clear. It seems like the refrigerant diverter valve is supposed to pipe warmed refrigerant to the evap coil because there is no heater on that side (no air diverter duct either), but there is on the freezer evap coil. So then, what is to stop me buying a second heater and defrost thermostat and fitting to the fridge coil? I could add a relay to take the defrost signal from the freezer .. so when the controller calls for defrost it would simply run both coils. I would add a second power cord and a fuse to avoid overloading the existing circuitry. Thoughts?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

It's a big project as you would have to route the wires through the back, so that means drilling holes, making sure you don't hit the freon lines. I have seen this done before, but it's much more complex a challenge than what I do in the video. I find that the dual evaporator units on the KA fridges tend to have sealed system failures and that is the root cause of the problems. Usually come with a 5 year sealed system warranty from the manufacturer (If a compressor is running an inefficient sealed system, the static defrost can't keep up and builds up frost over weeks or months) So for the Samsung we are implementing a mod to fix a failed engineering design. You would be modifying it because the fridge has a defect. That being said, diagnosis by proxy is not iron clad, I have to recommend a professional in-home diagnosis. Appliances are very complex and a professional tech just have the field experience on appliances that diy'ers, no matter how smart they are, don't have. Good luck to you.

[@frankish5314]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Well funny you should mention that but after I posted this I said .. "wait, this fridge barely keeps up with cooling and relies on hot refrigerant to melt the ice" Now if the the system is low on charge that might explain both symptoms. So I am going to check the refrigerant level first.. Thankyou for your reply.

[@frankish5314]

Well I got my can of R134a and checked the freon level.. it was way low... pulling a vacuum on the suction line.. topped it up to +3psi and OMG what a difference in cooling capacity and it switches the three way valve from side to side as it hits setpoint in the respective compartment. Now I just have to wait to see if the defrost function has come back.

[@paramedicjoe156]

Why won't my forced defrost kick the heater on? I changed out the heat sensor and I also changed out the thermal disconnect...any ideas? Thanks for your time man...it will power on for a second but then turns off

[@electronicsprojects4708]

if its sensing the temperature is too warm on the defrost heater, it won't turn on the heater. If it won't kick on when frosted up, you may have a defective relay on the main board. Use the schematic and ohm out the circuit from the wire harness connector at the board. If you get 100 ohms approximately, it's the board.

[@cyei10]

I missed what should be connect to where? is it an electrical connection?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

connect the Supco heater in parallel to the defrost heater. if you are not sure, and you are not a tech, I would call a qualified technician to fix your fridge.

[@ελευθερία-ε2ο]

Hi I went to the displacement connectors link and there are two..which guage do I need? Thank you

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I have used both successfully, but the blue ones, I do prefer.

[@MikeKapotsy]

Well I tried this fix and it only worked for a short time and it's back at it again. I'm afraid I may have to throw in the towel. I have replaced the thermostat and defrost sensor behind that panel as well. Any more suggestions to prevent this issue? Is there a timer on this fridge? RF263TEAEBC thanks.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

You do have to rectify the source of the problem which is the drain, Samsung has a modification kit, part number is DA82-01415A. I don't mention it because this video is for professional technicians and techs know about the recurring issue. I would recommend calling out a professional to finalize the repair and make sure the added heater is hooked in correctly and working properly.

[@jatindersehgal5061]

Hi thanks for the awesome video! I recently tried this fix on my fridge, seems to be ok so far. I checked the back panel near the top and it appears warm at times and the top vent holes let out a small amount of heat, is this normal and expected?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

will only let out heat when in defrost mode, not when its cooling. Defrost usually lasts for up to 25 minutes, and it happens about twice a day. If you used the SH201 or SH502 heater, then it only gets up to 160 degrees, which is a safe temperature for the back panel.

[@bobguy6542]

Where do you put the thermistor? It was down at the start and end of the video. I'm looking for where to put it relative to the new heater.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

You can put it in the same location as it was before, as long as it's not near the new heater. Samsung had a service bulletin that said to move it, then another that said to not move it. I think they were just fishing for solutions. The only issue I have with thermistors is if they go defective on these French Door units, never put one in a different location that solved the problem.

[@bobguy6542]

​@@electronicsprojects4708 """The only issue I have with thermistors is if they go defective on these French Door units, never put one in a different location that solved the problem. """ So I had moved mine from that far right copper line where the black goop is, and moved it to the far left copper line where you attached the SH502. Should I move it back to the bottom of the far right copper line just below the goop? PS: I ordered all the new parts already and they'll be here Wednesday. I was seconds away from pulling the trigger on a $2,200 new fridge, and decided I'm going all out on this fridge before I trash it. I've been pulling off the back panel every 6-8 weeks to defrost it. It's been getting worse and worse as each time the styrofoam gets more and more damaged, letting moisture in. I ordered a new evap cover, moisture kit, drain heat probe, SH502, zip ties, Mylar foiled pipe wrap for the 3 left copper tubes, and a replacement thermistor. PSS: Thanks for answering. You're a real one.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@bobguy6542 yea, put it in the same place it was before. Good luck.

[@chilitoday]

@@bobguy6542 how did it go? Which copper pipes did you wrap?

[@yourselfdotcomlol]

So does this only work when the fridge is defrost is activated?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

yes

[@sergeylarry7202]

​ @Electronics Projects In the video you mention that this is not a solution to the freezing drain problem. Have you found any long-term solutions to the drain problem yet? How do you resolve those? People report that the revised (longer) OEM drain heater probe doesn't resolve the issue. Could a 2nd SUPCO heater be fed down into the drain line? Any other solutions that work?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Samsung drain kit works for me. Also, check the mullion flapper that it is not staying open, that will cause excessive frost. Make sure that not only the back cover slits and condenser, but the base and front of the condenser is vacuumed out.

[@Cumbiafan60]

My Samsung French door never froze around the fan but the drain hole was freezing. I bought the revised (longer) OEM drain heater probe and drain still froze. Together with the heater Probe I added a 10 inch long copper wire, wrapped around the heater element a couple of times and feed it through the drain hole for about 7 in. also lowered the heating element down slightly closer to the drain hole. It has been about a year and no more ice buildup. It took 2 full days to melt the ice in the drain where i could feed a thick trimmer line all the way from the drain hole to the container back behind the fridge on the bottom. Vacuumed and cleaned the cores, cleaned both drain tubes as well.

[@farhadfarhadian1111]

We must boycott Samsung

[@aqqlex1904]

@electronicsprojects4708 can I use 2 extra heaters, i see it's not defrosting in the middle too, so i thought to put 1 at the top and 1 in the middle

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If the fridge is not defrosting at all, you have a different issue. I recommend calling a technician to troubleshoot the problem.

[@aqqlex1904]

@@electronicsprojects4708 it’s defrosting just lower part. Half of the coil.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I have never had to use 2 extra heaters. What I have seen is the upper area where the fan is, above the evaporator gets frosted up. If half the evaporator is frosted up in your case, then you could have an issue where the heater is cutting off early, possible due to a bad defrost sensor, or the new added heater is right next to the defrost sensor, causing an improper read by the board of the evaporator temperature.

[@bchandles]

Great repair video. Would the the SH502 work for a RF18HFENBSR?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Yes, but typically I find it's the ones that have the second suction line loop that the heater is tied to that cause the problems. If the drain is clogged, and the evaporator drain pan has solid ice in it, then there is a mod kit for that and that has to be cleared for the frost not to build up again. Also the ff door mullion flipper needs to be operating correctly, or it can let air in the ff compartment, causing excess frost build up.

[@dianabrockwaysutherland2942]

Thank you for this video. I have a temperature sensor on order as mine is bad. I'm hopeful that this will be the fix for my icing up issue behind the Twin Cooling cover in my Samsung refrigerator. I measured the temperature of the existing heater coil with a multi purpose meter and it measured 133 degrees. Is that a sufficient temperature or correct temperature for the coil? Your added heater measures approx. 30 degrees higher.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I would recommend calling a technician to do proper testing. The video is made for technicians and is not a comprehensive how to fix a frost up issue on a Samsung refrigerator. It's a video demonstrating the installation of a heater when all the normal fixes don't work because of Samsung's poor engineering.

[@eaglescout911]

Do you find that the rd defrost mode is helpful for a RF261 fridge with ice buildup behind the panel in the fridge?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If you want to do that periodically, that can be a solution. Depends on how bad the frost is building up.

[@eaglescout911]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for the reply. Even after all the fixes my fridge wouldn't stop ice build up so we replaced it.

[@chrismallory4409]

Hey there just did the heat trace wire awsome video just got question how do I put mine in defrost mode model Rf260BEAEWW thanks no paper work

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Force Mode Press the Power Freeze and Fridge buttons simultaneously for 8 Seconds, until the display goes blank. Press any key within 15 seconds to cycle through the mode in the following order: Manual operation1(FF) → Manual operation2(0F-r) → manual defrost of fresh food compartments(rd) → manual defrost of fresh and freezer compartments(fd) → cancel(Display all off) 'rd' (Refrigerator Defrost) is what you want to see on the display. It will automatically exit service mode in 25 or 30 minutes, if you don't exit, or you can unplug it to reset as well.

[@RaulRamirez-gq7hh]

I have the same problem. What city and state are you located in?

[@sheldon22]

Hi about to try this fix on my samsung. I am in Australia which uses 240V, hopefully supco provides 240V version. Just with the cable tie, do I need to look for specific high heat resistance cables? or any standard ones would work? Thanks

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Find a heater that's 15 Watts and gets to 160 or 170 degrees F. You can search for high heat zip ties, you can also just tie the ends and wrap it around the suction tube like a snake, if you are concerned for heat.

[@sheldon22]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for the advise, i managed to find a 15 watts heater from supco at 240v

[@chilitoday]

Hey, good video. My question is, can the defrost cycle be changed to run longer so as to prevent the buildup? This will of course make the fridge somewhat less “energy efficient” but it would be worth it to keep the thing going. Yes, I have added the sh502. Samsung makes decent TVs but they gooched this baby.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

some you can, some you can't. Samsung's 'Enhanced Defrost Function' is engaged (if possible) by this procedure: [assuming your model has on the display, 6 buttons, 3 on left, 3 on right] -Press and hold middle left button and upper right button for 17 seconds until you hear a beep, display will change to ' 0 - 0 ' -Press middle right button incrementally until you reach option '17' on display. (There are many options you can change, and it will skip some numbers, this is normal) If it skips '17' as if it's not there, the info I have does not pertain to your model and I would have no other solution for you. If '17' is accessible, -press middle left button until display number changes to '1'. -wait 5 seconds until display returns to temperature setting -reset fridge by unplugging for a minute and plugging back in. -if successful, you will be able to go back into the options settings and if you go back to option '17', you will see it will already be on '1'. -that's all the info I have on this.

[@chilitoday]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank for reply. Btw instead of ties I used 12ga copper wire to coil around the heater and copper lines, loosely wrapping the entire right side loop helping the heat transfer get to all of the top area piping.

[@johntran9985]

Hi Mike, can I private message you with the photo that I took for the ice build around the evaporator? Unfortunately there's no attachment option in comment.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

The video is pretty self explanatory, if you are an appliance tech, diagnose it as you normally would, then if you need the heater add it on.

[@aravai1]

Very frustrated dealing with this issue. I am not a tech. Can you recommend anyone in the Northern Virginia area who could apply this fix? Appreciate your innovative solution. Thank you.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

what's the city/zip?

[@csul5961]

Thanks for the video, anyway to put in the description which wires you connect to? They look like the brown ones? Also how do we test it to make sure it’s working and connected right?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Not all wire colors are the same for different models, check the schematic. To test, put it in diagnostics mode to defrost after you instal the heater. It should be hot to touch after a few minutes, can't keep your finger on it for more than a second. It's about 160 - 170 degrees.

[@victorl5891]

obiously the two wires that the original heater is connected to. just follow the heater, it has a wire coming out on both sides. another way to test is to jump the defrost thermostat and that will trigger heating

[@singhbehramia]

What is the length of heater wire actually used Can any any body help

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Only use the Supco ones listed bellow part numbers SH201 or SH502. They are 15 watts. The length spans the top suction line of the evaporator in both cases.

[@willlo9156]

Hi, will this work on the samsung freezer? My fridge only froze up once but the freezer keeps freezing up every couple of months. Thanks

[@electronicsprojects4708]

I have never needed to use an add-on heater with a Samsung freezer evaporator, I would check the drain to make sure it's not icing up.The evaporator is much wider on the freezer, so you would not be able to put a heater on in the same fashion.

[@willlo9156]

@@electronicsprojects4708 thanks for the quick reply! After some researching, I'm going to test the defrost heater and see if it is broken. Thanks again

[@zdenanrehhelber]

But it does the defrost automatic right? You don’t have to do it every other day!

[@electronicsprojects4708]

when you put the heater in, it automatically defrosts it every 8 hours or so.

[@zdenanrehhelber]

@@electronicsprojects4708 thanks for the reply, also it was necessary to put the heat shrink? Mine does not have one, is just a Baer cable, I don’t think it make any difference

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@zdenanrehhelber I prefer without it, as you don't have to route the wire across the evaporator, you just have a wire at each end to splice in.

[@_abbilina_]

Will be trying this omg wish me luck

[@frankcronin1060]

does the heater fit my Samsung RF261BEAEBC ? thank you

[@electronicsprojects4708]

yes

[@larryroyovitz7829]

Do you have to strip the other wire (original from the fridge) or does the displacement connector cut into the shiething?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

the wire insulation of the heater is too thick, so you have to strip the wires.

[@larryroyovitz7829]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Sorry, so the NEW heater wire, you have to strip like you did in the video, but the original wire, you don't have to, correct?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@larryroyovitz7829 correct

[@larryroyovitz7829]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you, I just ordered that heater! Fingers crossed. Thanks again.

[@larryroyovitz7829]

Well, I've added the heater, so we'll see. I have the RF197, which is "supposed" to be fixed with the drain kit. We upgraded the drain kit last year, but still had to unplug the fridge for days to defrost. This is the last ditch effort...if this doesn't work, I guess it's landfill time. What a waste. We'll see.

[@Tssonyoutube]

Are you relocating the thermistor ?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

no, I have found that if it's defective, I replace it, other than that, placement has no bearing on the problem of frost build up.

[@edde820]

How hard was it to do this ? Man I can’t take it anymore with Samsung I spent over 2500 on the fold 4 with accessory’s only for the screen to break because of this heat when I opened it in a cold room

[@grantschomburg9990]

How many zip ties come in one pack? Thanks Mike!

[@danielberry1099]

Thank you for your video. I have this issue with my Samsung French Door (code: RF24FSEDBSR). I am based in the UK. (1) Will this kit work in the UK (where the standard voltage is higher than the US - 230V v 120V)? (2) Has any in the UK been able to find a technician willing to fit a part which is not "Samsung approved" to their fridge? Those I have spoken to are worried about the liability and I am struggling to find anyone; (3) Has Samsung produced its own kit which would make it easier for me to persuade a technician to fix the part? If I cannot find anyone i will have a go myself. The refusal of SAMSUNG to admit that their products have this inherent design flaw and/or to correct it is bewildering. For around a decade, it has been public knowledge and, despite a class action law suit being brought in the USA, they continue to sell fridges with the same issue. I will never buy another SAMSUNG product of any kind ever again.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

Sorry for the late response, YT stopped giving notifications for comments. The Supco part numbers provided only work for US, 120vac, wattage is too high and heater will probably just fail very quickly and get so hot, it may cause damage to the back panel, if used in a 240v setting. I am not familiar with any Samsung retrofit of this type. Because of the wattage limitations set my the federal government, they would not be able to just add components like this without getting reapproved which probably would not happen.

[@katherinereynolds8118]

I have a Samsung Model # RF28HMEDBWW/AA Rev. 04 S/N 066443BFC00488V and I have the same over icing issue. I have defrosted, removed the back panel safely, and have all the parts to add the heater. I just have a couple of questions, I have 2 plugs on the left, no plug on the right. I had a hard time viewing the connections and the correct wire that goes into the connector with the heater wire. Not sure what wire to connect to? I have a hard time viewing the schematics. With 2 lead wires on the heater, and my unit only having 1 plug that looks like the one you connected to, am I connecting on one lead wire from the heater? If you could please advise me as to the connections I would greatly appreciate it. Also, I am curious, will this make the heater only heat when you run the FR or FD or will it heat up automatically to maintain the buildup?

[@katherinereynolds8118]

My Apologies, I was thinking of only the 2 plugs I unplugged on the left when taking off the panel. There is in fact 2 plugs one on the left and the right. I just need to know if the brown wire is in fact the refrigerator heater wire and that this is the only wire that is in fact connected with the SH502 heater wire inside the connector? My Bad. I am figuring this out as I go.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

This is an advanced modification for technicians, it's not meant for a diy. I recommend you call a qualified repair tech in your area to install the heater. As to your other questions, this heater works when the defrost heater is on during normal operation. The tech should setup the heater in parallel to the defrost heater. If it's not wired properly, it could fry the refrigerator control board.

[@katherinereynolds8118]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you so very much, I just was advised by Supco that this part is not a compatible part for my Model. They referred me to Repair Clinic for an OEM heater. I have the OEM part # of DA47-00434A. This part appears much different in shape but basically the same concept. I will see about getting the OEM part and having a Tech install it for me. Thank you very much.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@katherinereynolds8118 If the only place that the frost is building up is at the top near the fan, that means the evaporator heater is working just fine. The reason I posted this video was for techs to be able to overcome an engineering failure in this series of Samsung french door fridges. This is outside of what the manufacturer or Supco for that matter recommend. But it's a modification I came up with and I have been doing it for about 4 years now, I know of other techs that have put thousands of these Supco heaters in these refrigerators with great results. But it is a more advanced repair, that's why I only recommend competent appliance techs perform it.

[@katherinereynolds8118]

@Electronics Projects Thank-you so much. This explains everything, why Supco wouldn't suggest I install this to my model, and why Supco referred me to the OEM replacement of the evaporative heater. The evap heater is working fine, so that was not what I needed. My unit was in fact only icing up near the fan at the top.I didn't end up purchasing the replacement heater. I cleaned up the fridge and decided to wait on the install or the evap replacement. I Put it back together, Running great for now. Want to see how long before it ices over again. I have had this fridge for 9 years and never had to defrost it. This was the first. If it freezes up again, I will have this fix installed definitely. I got nervous when you mentioned the fact that it has to be installed correctly or it could damage the circuit board, and then Supco not supporting the idea or compatibility either. I called a tech and they wanted $250 to come look at it. Fee is waived if repair is done, but they wouldn't use the parts I purchased. I will need to find a tech that will install it for me. It appears to be an easy install. It did not seem to me that this fix should even be a compatibility issue. This is a great fix, and I will definitely use it if it ices up again. I am sure it will. Thank you for what you do. This will help a lot of people including myself get around Samsung's engineering failure.

[@addramz]

Hey mate thanks the video very helpful. A question after installation I find the area near the newly installed unit is really hot and now the fridge isn't staying cool, any insight or ideas?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

if you installed the correct heater, it should be around 160 degrees. Test the temperature with an ir gun or thermocouple.

[@addramz]

@@electronicsprojects4708 it was working at around that temperature, but the main problem was that it was so hot that it didn't allow the fridge to cool. You could physically feel the heat coming through the back panel

[@addramz]

Could there be an issue with the frequency and duration that the heater is staying on?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

​@@addramz if it's 160 degrees you won't feel it through the panel unless it is staying on all the time. In that case it would be installed incorrectly. Has to be in parallel with the defrost heater. Stays on for about 20 minutes during defrost.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@addramz I have never seen the defrost heater stay on more than 25 minutes because it has a safety timer built into the board. So if the newly installed heater is staying on longer, it is not in parallel with the heater and needs to be reinstalled.

[@ramonangelovillanueva-ut8lp]

Hi mate. I'm in Australia. I have a samsung srs583hdp fridge. Since we have a 220v-240v rating here. I'm assuming the supco sh503 is the one I need?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

yes, it's 240v and 15 watts

[@ramonangelovillanueva-ut8lp]

@@electronicsprojects4708 awesome. Thanks you... 👍

[@luckyrefrigeration9825]

How many type we are test over heater is working please explain

[@electronicsprojects4708]

no clue what your question is

[@georgegabriel3572]

Good video. I have the same issue, and I installed the heater sh502 but is not working. I'm sure there's no issue with the wire installations. Do you think there's no power in one of the connectors because of the motherboard or something else?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

If the defrost is working, and the sh502 heater is in parallel with the defrost heater, you only have two options. Bad connections, or a defective heater.

[@georgegabriel3572]

@@electronicsprojects4708 I found out it's a defective heater. Thanks for your fast response.

[@Tolg]

Where did you end up attaching the right side thermometer to?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

based on your question, I would recommend calling a professional to diagnose and repair it. repairing appliances is quite complex and Samsungs have more complex problems than the standard manufacturer. get someone with experience on these units.

[@Tolg]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks, lol, wow, smacked down. Ouch. I asked because it's typically recommended to move the thermometer sensor a bit to the right when installing a heater element like this and not keep it at it's original location. This is so that the refrigerator does not think it's thawed out prematurely.

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@Tolg It's a 'thermistor' and I leave them in place. This was a Samsung 'I can't figure this problem out' moment, so they tried to change the location seeing if it would fix anything.

[@Tolg]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Ah! Thank you for proper terminology. Learned something new. "Thermistor".. not thermometer. And thanks for the feedback on leaving it in its original location.

[@druiz607]

My heater will not come on at all in forced defrost. I checked it and it seems to be fine. Is it supposed to get hot to the touch when turning on forced defrost?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

yes, it takes about 3-4 minutest to get up to about 180 degrees and you can leave your finger on it for about one second without it feeling uncomfortable and having to remove your it. If the Samsung defrost heater is working and getting hot (it gets over 500 degrees so be careful when testing) then you have a connection issue with the new Supco heater. If it is not turning on, you have an unrelated issue with the defrost circuit not addressed in this video. Note, if the evaporator is warm, it will not go into defrost. The evaporator sensor feeds back temp info to the board.

[@druiz607]

@@electronicsprojects4708 hmm so my heater is not going on. I attached the new heater up on top with posi taps and I started getting error code R1 g and f1g meaning error w the heaters. I figured I must have severed the wires so I removed the taps, cut the heater wire and spliced it together and the error code went away. Then I got the regular tabs like the ones you used, but it was difficult because the new heater wires are real thick and the existing ones are thin so one of the new thick wires kept coming out. I had to open the tap and remove it and use a new one. Now I'm getting only a error code f1g, meaning freezer heater is having problems. Anyway, I ordered a new main board hoping that is the reason the heaters don't come on. Any thoughts on the error codes?

[@electronicsprojects4708]

@@druiz607 I strip the wire about 3/4 of an inch, so the insulation does not sit in the connector. I don't think a new control board is going to fix anything. I would need the model # to look up error codes as they are different from model to model and people's interpretations of the erro code can vary.

[@druiz607]

@@electronicsprojects4708 Update! I finally got back to this, first thing I tried was the new board because the heater and everything else tested fine. As soon as I plugged it in I saw that there was no more error code. I then put it in forced defrost and after a few minutes did the finger test and what do you know, it really hurt! Yes I finally got the heater to turn on. I did your advice for the connection for the tub heater and that one turns on as well! Thanks for the help.

[@druiz607]

update 2: ok hours later, it was making a weird noise like a motor is running , and I checked the diagnosis and now I get the F1-g code again which shows up in the manual as: F-DEF.-Heater Error - F defrost part error. Model is rf267aars. I'm going to test the resistance between CN70, CN71 as it states in the manual, but I did that way back before installing the new board and it was fine. You ever get this?

[@mikesr3011]

Great fix! I have a french door model #RF323tedbsr/aa that had the ice issue. I just finished getting rid of the ice and reassembling everything. Does everything you have listed good for the model as well? We purchased the fridge new and it is the first time this happened. I suspect there has been either ice build up or condensation in-between the rear metal backing and the inside plastic panel as there is a large (wet) rust spot and water drip marks under it. The fridge is 7 years old. Thanks for the instruction!

[@electronicsprojects4708]

if the upper portion looks like the one in the video it will work. There is a drain mod from Samsung to prevent it from leaking under the deli tray. In general, I recommend qualified techs fix these as there are so many fails on these models.