Samsung Waterwall Dishwasher Motor replacement- Bonesonhomes

[@thomasbrown1866]

Nice video description but I would like to add a couple of comments related to the reinstallation of the parts. The video states to simply just do it in the reverse order. It may be obvious to some but not to me. This is what I learned and how I reinstalled the waterwall pump assembly and internal parts. First. I'd recommend the removal of the bottom washer access panel from the bottom of the dishwasher. It is held on by one screw and pops off. It makes access much easier to reinstall the pump assembly. Second. Leave the spray bar valve motor off until final assembly. This is the round white assembly on the right side of the waterwall pump assembly that Danial says to remove before removing the pump. Third. Leave the small white plastic pump removal tool from the left side of pump off until final assembly. This is the plastic part you would have used to pry the pump out of the washer floor. The seal and pump are quite tight when installed. Fourth. I noticed that the hole in the dishwasher floor when the pump assembly is installed has a rounded edge on top. The part was obviously stamped from the top when fabricated. The bottom of the floor opening is quite sharp. The top is curved and rounded. This makes trying to reinsert the pump and seal assembly from the bottom almost impossible. Fifth. On my unit, the rubber seal when removed was actually larger in diameter than the pump body when it was installed. I thought the seal had stretched and I tried to purchase a new one. I found the part number on the exploded Samsung part diagrams was 1-1-2-5. The picture shows it correctly but the actual part assigned to this number is for the spray bar seal inside the washer. I couldn't find a correct part so I had to use the old seal. The loose seal again makes reinsertion from the bottom impossible. Sixth. The reinstallation of the pump assembly actually has to be done from the top. Without the diverter motor and plastic pry bar installed, the lower pump assembly is slightly smaller than the hole in the floor. So the assembly will fit through from the top down. Seven. I placed the seal in position around the lower pump assembly. I used a piece of thin safety wire to wrap around the seal and twisted the wire to compress the seal diameter. (I happened to have a pair of aviation safety wire pliers. You can also use a regular pair of pliers) You might be able to reinstall the unit without doing this but I found it when back together quite nicely using the wire compression. Eight. I used a waterproof lubricate I use for my swimming pool filter gasket to lubricate the floor opening. Watch the sharp edges when applying so you don't cut your fingers. Nine. Install the top portion of the waterwall motion bar onto the lower portion of the pump assembly using the back two holes. Only tighten the screws to the point the seal top and bottom are contacting the top and bottom of the housings. If you tighten it too much, you will compress the seal and it will expand and not fit into the opening in the floor. The top portion will hold the seal when pushing down to insert the assembly. IMPORTANT POINT. The position of the rotary spray divertor valve when reinstalled is such that opening of the valve should be that big opening is at the top when looking down and the smaller at the bottom. The rotary valve motor cam limit switch should be positioned at the stop/start position between the two small ridges on the cam. (I wish I could provide pictures) Essentially, the start position is such that water should to be able flow up through the middle and upper spray bars. I couldn't find this configuration confirmed anywhere and Samsung tech people were clueless. If you were like me, you didn't notice this when you took it apart. Insert the whole pump and divertor assembly top and bottom into the hole in the washer floor from the top (inside of the washer). Push it down until the top portion of the body almost contacts the washer floor. Remove the top half by removing the two screws that were temporarily installed. Remove the safety wire used to compress the gasket. If you have managed to insert the unit without using the wire technique. You can skip this part. Reinstall the top half paying attention to the rotary valve position. Again partially install two screws. Push the unit down to fully contact the floor of the washer. Reinstall and tighten all four screws. From the bottom, you can now reinstall the spray valve divertor motor by pushing it on and rotating clockwise. You can now install the small white plastic removal tool. You can reconnect the wiring to the divertor valve motor, divertor valve limit switch, the waterwall motor and the proximity switch. The water inlet hose can now be reinstalled using the squeezable hose clamp. The installation of the washer internals are pretty straight forward. When reinstalling the position/motion bar, I would move it as far rearward as you can before installing. I'm not sure it matters as the control system and proximity switch will reset the bar's location on startup. Hopefully this will save you the aggravation I went through. I was quite close to scraping and replacing the unit. This design must have been somewhat problematic as Samsung appears to be phasing it out. In my case, the failure had occurred in the proximity switch. It was black and smelled like overheated electrical parts smell.

[@j0mbie]

You're not kidding around about that metal rim being sharp. I cut out an entire 1" x 1/2" section of skin from my finder when the part slipped trying to install from the bottom. However, I did find out that, if you take the diverter assembly and the plastic "lock" off the waterwall motor assembly, you can install the entire thing from the top (minus the arm). The diverter assembly is on the right of the motor, if you're looking at the back of the dishwasher, and the plastic locking tab is on the left. Both parts actually lock the waterwall in place by rotating the top towards you, which is a pretty weak design in my book, but so is the rest of the waterwall in general. I put a little Vaseline around the gasket before installing so it wouldn't catch, for what it's worth, but it hasn't leaked and the seal looked good. (That is NOT how gaskets should be used, by the way. They should be pinched in place by clamping action, not wedged between two parts. But I digress.) Anyways, like you, I couldn't find anyone that sold the gasket by itself. But I found out that, if you need to replace the motor completely, the cheapest place for me other than a sketchy eBay vendor was Sears Parts Direct. And for $15 more, I could get the entire waterwall assembly, minus the diverter motor and "ramp" bar. So, waterwall motor, waterwall sprayers, "ramp" bar track, gaskets, housings, etc. all already put together. That was worth the extra $15 easily. The part number was DD97-00484D and the diagram section was just "1". All I actually needed was sub-group "1-1-2" or even "1-1" but of course, Samsung doesn't make those by themselves anymore. The diverter position was a pain to get right though, because it's hard to tell exactly where it should be beforehand to line up with the sensor. I should have marked it before installation. But, I got lucky and it's close enough to do a good enough job, and I'm not taking it apart again if I don't have to. I'm glad you figured out which of the two edges corresponded to open/close on the unit because even the "repair" manual I found doesn't tell you. (It's really more of a disassembly manual than anything. Just says "do the steps in reverse" for assembly, which doesn't help in this case.)

[@serenapawluk1332]

This helped a lot! I was attempting to reinstall the pump assembly from the bottom and was slicing up my fingers to the point of becoming light headed from blood loss. Who knew the bottom of the dishwasher would have blades that rival those used by a surgeon? Your advice helped me to complete the installation and finish with functional fingers. I didn't end up needing to wrap the seal with a wire but instead set it in place with the pump assembly resting lightly on top of it and then working the seal into place while working the assembly in deeper. Thanks again for your post!

[@robertbussone9625]

Since my repair I have quite a bit of water leaking from the front bottom of the unit when the water wall arm reaches the front position. I must have something out of alignment after reinstalling everything.

[@SpartanYacoub]

Yes - Installing the motor and the inside housing together THEN installing from the top down was a LIFE SAVER. It will not reinstall from the bottom, it's impossible. Thank you for this tip, saved me my sanity!

[@barhoyou6959]

God bless you man you saved me THX A LOT

[@beetstreet3980]

thanks! just changed out the water water motor and assembly. your video helped me out a lot! i think you can pull up the whole assembly after you disconnect all the bottom clamp, hose, and side motor.

[@danheuser5148]

I couldn't quite figure out what other people were saying about the "spray bar valve motor" & "rotary spray divertor valve" alignment, so to avoid screwing that up I just unscrewed the waterwall reflector motor without removing as much. Specifically: 1. I did all the steps in the video up until 3:06, but I didn't need to remove the 4 screws that secure the pump assembly. I only removed the 2 screws that hold the reflector track in place. Removing the track will make it easier to line up the flat edge of the motor rod/axle/shaft with the hole on the track when you reassemble everything. 2. I removed the back cover (like in the video) and detached the hose, but that was only so I could get easier access to one of the 2 screws holding the motor in place. I had to use a small ratchet with a short screw driver bit to get the first screw out. It wasn't too bad if you have a small enough ratchet and short screw driver bit. 3. I then flipped the dishwasher on its right side so I could remove the bottom cover and get easier access to the other screw holding the motor in place. This will spill some water out of the dishwasher. I assume the water comes from the detached hose, but maybe also from the drain inside the unit. You could try reattaching the hose before flipping the unit on its side to minimize the spillage. You'll likely need a long'ish screw driver to access this 2nd screw, but it was very easy to remove. 4. Once you've unscrewed the motor and detached its power connection, remove the old motor and insert the new motor. I'm not sure if this can be done with the hose attached. 5. Screw the motor in & plug it in. If you did spill some water, now's a good time to try to dry the interior of the unit before putting the bottom cover back on. 6. Flip the unit upright if you haven't already done so and you may need to try to dry up more water via the back access panel. 7. Reattach all the internal parts (waterwall reflector track, etc.) and hopefully that fixed your problem. I got a water leak error the first time I ran the unit because of all the water that spilled out of my unit, so I flipped the breaker, and took the back and bottom covers off again to dry things out. Also in case anyone was wondering, prior to replacing the motor, mine was making a sort of grinding sound (like stones being stirred around), the waterwall reflector was only traveling half the distance it's supposed to travel and it was really struggling to move at all. It also beeped at me, but didn't give me an error code.

[@hobo225]

really helpful! appreciate the short video and funny quips

[@veronicahabeeb7790]

Hello! I'm trying to take apart the motor now, but I'm having trouble finding that "white tab" I don't know if it's the one I found, or how to push it anywhere without breaking the part

[@veronicahabeeb7790]

Otherwise, you video is the only one that has been helpful so far

[@issacasimov]

Is there a way to repair the motor? I heard it breaks because of moisture got in.

[@douglasesper]

Hi, what is the part number for the motor and anyone know where I can find one? Thanks!

[@kevinkennedy5076]

Useful vid. Funny guy!

[@mollieandresmatias4832]

Can I ask, was it making a loud noise even though it wasn't moved? I think this might be what's wrong with mine but it's making a loud motor noise.

[@troykerby2880]

I'm not sure what I've done wrong, I've replaced the motor and I see that was the issue, but now water gushes out to the right around the white part. I've taken it back apart and put it together and the water still leaks around that right part.

[@BrandonEnderson]

Were you able to get this fixed? I have a newer model of this dishwasher and the bottom rack isn’t cleaning. I figure it’s the motor but wanted some confirmation from others with the same issues. Thank you!

[@znaseer2162]

Horrible!! Video is not showing how to take it apart

[@kevinkennedy5076]

Moar of this!

[@semusmcgraw]

As others said this glosses over too much to know what to do, you'll likely damage it trying to figure out how to remove the parts he says (not obvious how they move) I went off the rails from what he said and had success: remove the panel and the black tube as he says, but not the smaller motor (step 2). I then tilt yhe DW on its face and take off yhe bottom panel for more access, it will leak a little. Now remove the two small screws on the back of the larger motor (matches the replacement part you ordered). Note, to unscrew those, i needed a two inch long or shorter screw driver, i made one by cutting a short screw driver with a Dremel or whatever... You can then pull the motor out and note the rotation angle of the shaft - you will need to mnaually rotate the shaft angle of the replavement motor to match in order to insert it. You will have to ofc plug in the new electrical wiring. Then put everthjng else back together. Worked for me!

[@matthewbates1591]

I do not recommend this video for the following reasons: - the video greatly simplifies some of the steps outlined and completely skips over actually showing you how to do them - following this procedure will quite likely cause your dishwasher diverter valve to get out of alignment and prevent it from functioning correctly because taking everything apart like that means you will not be able to reassemble the gears in the correct position. Either separate the assembly top and bottom, OR remove the diverter valve motor, but DON'T do both. - reassembly is *not* the reverse of disassembly in this case, or at least it will require a huge amount of swearing and probably blood from your fingers The only way to get the assembly reinstalled is by loosely assembling both halves and then installing them from inside the tub.