Satisfying LED Mood Lamp - 3D Printing and Arduino DIY

[@LogicalWaste]

I think this is what i'm going to use as my introduction to arduino.

[@SixOThree]

I think this is a perfect first project.

[@leopardgaming8965]

good choice lighting is a very good way to start arduino. If you havn't used step down boards or soldered before i reccommend getting a solderless breadboard and just messin around with leds, potentiometer and basic code. Im 15 and have been intrested in arduino for a while. also as a really basic starting video i reccommend: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pH2WZa16ibWemdU

[@markus_enzinger]

What makes it special is that you care about cooling! Nice!

[@HDThorUs]

I love the fact that you spent time designing the base to have a place for each component and not just glue it in place with hot glue. Though you used hot glue after all XD Very nice design and great video as always!

[@agepbiz]

I love 3d prints with electronics! The end result is beautiful!

[@SLRNT]

this is one is the best looking Mood lamps i've seen on youtube. video quality is also top notch

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thank you :)

[@moimeme8827]

hello Joe ! I'm doing the same thing with strip of 50 led WS2812B. For more secure run, I think you must add 2 things: a resistor 470 Ohm on the data line D5 for preventing "echo" and a condensator 1000µF (mini 16V) between positive and negative 5V input. This will prevent burn of the first led at power ON. If you use 50 LED at 64 brightness (1/4, and max =255), power will be 300mA max. this is a good surprise from my led strip. so arduino nano can support that in direct connexion to led strip (max 500mA). have a nice day and see you for the next video !

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Awesome work. I see the nano has analog inputs. You could add a 10k pot to adjust brightness or maybe even a photocell to dim based on ambient light.

[@jparky1972]

Yes. I thought the exact same thing. Room in the base for a potentiometer. Or. I.R. or Bluetooth remote.

[@lucamengoli332]

i have a pot with switch butt but i dont have any idea how to configure it

[@TheGameIsFunny]

@@lucamengoli332 that's not a potentiometer, that is a rotary encoder

[@3DMakerNoob]

👇👇⛔️⛔️READ FIRST: ⛔️⛔️👇👇 As i said, this was my first proper project, so it's not perfect. cut me some slack :) YES, you can omit the step down DC-DC converter IF you are using anything up to 12 V power supply, however keep in mind that Arduino Nano's are only rated up to 1 AMP on the 5V output pins. LEDs consume up to 60 milliamp per LED, so you require 6 AMPS to power all of them at full brightness. YES, the red + from the power supply Should have been soldered onto the 5V pin on the arduino, but this still worked for this project. YES, LEDs do get fairly hot, hence why i installed active cooling, you don't have to install it, but i decided to install it on mine. YES, I will be using an ESP2866 in my next project

[@balls2bone]

If you took anything negative from my comments on the Vin pin I am sorry. I was only attempting to pass on information which could be useful. I'm an art graduate and am completely self taught in electronics, so, trust me, I have been in exactly the same position. Now I'm one of the directors of my local hackspace, so trust me things do change.

[@3DMakerNoob]

I would never take that as a negative, I’m always learning :) I put this comment there as I had at least 10 others say the same thing so I figured I’d let everyone know I read it :)

[@gimon2233]

@@3DMakerNoob is it possible to add another mode? Im planning to add a sound visualizer using a electret microphone.

[@iandawkins2182]

Another awesome video, just started getting into Arduino's literally a few day's ago. Just started like all newbies making flashing LED's but will be doing this project as soon as possible. Great to combine Arduino and 3D printing on your channel can't wait for more. Thank you Sir.

[@andy_warb]

That is a damn beautiful model you got there. Would love to see a 21st-century update using an ESP8266 and WLED library for wireless control!

[@turnerkirk1920]

The level of quality on this video is bonkers! It takes an insane amount of time and attention to detail to create all of the parts of this project not to mention planning/recording/editing the video itself! Subscribed! looking forward to watching more of your vids.

[@tomolsen8830]

Two questions. First can the base fit an uno that already has the headers attached? and Second can a Esp32 take place of the uno? It would be nice to be able to control it by wifi or use an Echo if possible to change the light. Awesome project! I will be starting one as soon as i order the parts. My printers will be busy. Just got an Ender 3. Should the base be PETG due to the heat generated by the electronics?

[@dr_j0nes]

You could get rid of the fan and the step down converter by using an appropriate power supply outside of the lamp. Just an idea. Love the design. Will build my own customized version for sure! ❤

[@jamesledcube5827]

WOW!! Just finished making this mood lamp and I have to say Joe, this is amazing. The design looks like something purchased from a shop, everything fits together remarkably well, the diffusion is perfect and even the Mrs approves!! Awesome

[@garyhoffmann1615]

You should not connect 5V to the Arduino VIN, there is a voltage drop going via the internal regulator and it may cause the Arduino to be unstable. Vin will take up to 12V with no problem, so just connect the VIN to the DC input. This will also put less load on the step down regulator PCB.

[@georgepeoples1209]

Just Downloaded the files and ordered the parts for a couple Christmas gifts. Look forward to this project.

[@andypodmore6721]

What a fantastic project. Think it would be perfect as a child's night light. Thanks for sharing.

[@3DMakerNoob]

It absolutely is, my daughter already stole mine for her room 😂

[@andypodmore6721]

@@3DMakerNoob Going have to print one for our Grandson now.

[@kumarvarun2184]

If you are using Vin in adriuno then you can give 12 volt will convert it automatically to 5 volt

[@Litruv]

on this specific Arduino, yes, you can.

[@Spaventacorvi]

I made a similar lamp but made with only 20 LEDs and Pringles caps. 😁 I see that you use hot glue to fix the components, I prefer to use joints, zip ties or self-tapping screws. In any case congratulations, nice project. I'll make one.

[@sambarnes1226]

You don't normally make videos with this type of camera shot (or I don't think so). I like it

[@OlimarFerraz]

It's still a great project. I made a simple one using a ws2812b (60led/m) and an RF controller and I'm going to update the electronics to integrate a pair on my desk and voice control by Alexa. I printed using Esun's cood white PLA+ and would like to get a little more light through the diffuser. I'm thinking about producing the cover in resin.

[@thomasmroz]

Going to build one for my daughter. Great project.

[@benhaenraets4369]

I'm in the process off making this now! It looks really good so far!

[@codingfun63]

maybe add pot or encoder to control brightness ? or even just use push button and hold for increase decrease brightness ?

[@oldsalty3d122]

This lamp is AWESOME! I can't wait to be home again so that I can print it and use it to learn a little bit about Arduino. 😁

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thanks buddy, trust me it will be worth it :)

[@Entityism]

Wondering if there is any kind of tiny bus bar for projects like this. I couldn't find anything. Would be nice instead of the dog-pile on top of 1 solder terminal. Much easier to add/remove wires if needed. Maybe something with screw terminals.

[@cpt_sumaiter9216]

Hey, nice projekt.Would still have the question why you have not taken directly simply a power supply with 5v 2A output voltage?' This should be easier or am I missing something?

[@nerys71]

seriously. I only have 14k subs and I Get that. but how the hell do you only have 44k? Your content is absolutely top shelf and you are crazy likable. I am honestly curious why you are not blasting well past 100k and fast.

[@3DMakerNoob]

I have no idea brother, trying my hardest. Even this video for example, it’s performing really badly compared to some of my other ones. Maybe I should just stick to Ender 3 videos :(

[@thesimbon]

@@3DMakerNoob maybe because it is more maker oriented and less 3D printer. Next time make a title like "Build mood lamp with the Ender 3" 😅

[@3DMakerNoob]

Yep, definitely should have lol

[@Entityism]

@@3DMakerNoob My 2 cents . . . this video is exactly what I like to see. I don't really need videos about printers I won't be purchasing, tho of course I do watch some just to keep current on what's available. I like to see content with what I can make with what I have. This is perfect, well executed, makes me want to make it. Big thumbs up. Looking forward to your next maker video. Thanks!

[@bossmonster3319]

This one is awesome! I am going to try it. The price is way way way cheaper than I thought it would be for something like this.

[@bjimx]

Your hard work paid off, looks great, nice design. Is there a reason for using a 9 volt power supply with a buck converter? Can I just use a 5 volt power supply? Thanks

[@3DMakerNoob]

Most power supplies are 9 or 12v, so it’s easier and gives you more options. Plus you also get more amps :)

[@bjimx]

@@3DMakerNoob I have a couple of 5v 10amp power supplies waiting to be used, that's why I asked.

[@3DMakerNoob]

In that case you don’t need it :)

[@rando7678]

Just curious as to how loud the fan is and how necessary it is to the operation.

[@TheCowboysdude]

It's been a while but let me tell you......you'll forget the fan is even there!!!! I can't even hear it. Here's the ones I bought -> www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRSF8RZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can't even hear them! :)

[@tinkertv]

Insanely good looking lamp! Great video! I will for sure look up for that nature white filament for my project videos!

[@3rutu5]

why use the fan? do the LED get hot? i would love to try this with a 5v bluetooth speaker project

[@markus_enzinger]

Thank you for that idea and work! would you mind uploading the source file for the bottom part, would like to modify for a Li Ion Battery... thank you!!

[@ProtonOne11]

I'm just working on a project like this too. Going with the Teensy3.6 as controller tho, adding a logic level converter to it. And i'm doing a more intricate lamp shape, not just a simple cylinder. And i will definately just go and buy a 230VAC to 5VDC power supply. There is no point in using a 2-stage voltage step down system.

[@mehdisherif2972]

at 6:49 what is that sort of joint called?

[@PhilBrindley]

Great work. Ordered parts, purchased files, base printing as I type. Can't wait for this one. Also, really loving wood filament so any suggestions (beyond Groot) for nice wood prints gratefully received. Keep up the great work Joe.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Will be doing a full video on wood very soon, especially on how to print it successfully on a 0.4mm nozzle

[@PhilBrindley]

@@3DMakerNoob Great! I look forward to it. It's working well for me apart from the stringing, so any tips there will be really helpful.

[@DJSolitone]

Please make us an stl for esp8266 board as WLED is the way to go with awesome integrations on top of LED strip management

[@patrickneijenhof4080]

Nice design and execution of the project Joe! I don't like to print with woodfill, but i have to say that seeing your base, makes me wonder if i need to give it another try someday with a bigger nozzle ;)

[@3DMakerNoob]

No need, a 0.4 will do, that’s what I printed with. I’ll make a video on how to reliably print in wood soon :)

[@zodak9999b]

This is great, Joe. I have the files and will start on it asap. I have a slightly different voltage regulator on hand, but it's pretty close to the same size, I think. Thanks!!!

[@shahanazbegum1260]

i think this video should get 1million likes

[@antonionunez1898]

Awesome project! now I need to order some natural filament and the RGB lights, might have it ready for MRRF! Tank you for another great video and project!

[@3DMakerNoob]

If so, make sure you bring it over so I’ll have a look at it :)

[@spikekent]

Great project Joe, looks great in the video and I know that LEDs always look even better in person. Remember this old adage that I picked up when I was a sparks (Electrician) Red to Red, Black to Black and Blue to bits :-)

[@mr.polskajunior6859]

Could You name the half-transperant material of the LED case specifically ? That would really help our project ! Thank you very much

[@GrafitTomi]

Wow! Joe.. absolute awesomeness. Very well documented project. Professional presentation. The quality of the video, the sound.. IMPECCABLE! Thumbs up Dude.. all of them!

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thanks buddy, I really tried to do this differently than the rest of my videos :)

[@thesimbon]

I'd suggest to use a wemos d1 mini with tasmota or other similar firmware that has some light shows and it can be controlled over Wi-Fi or even by the home automation controller.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Next project :) this was my first one so baby steps :)

[@thesimbon]

@@3DMakerNoob just add the wemos shape on the base, then makers will handle from there 😉

[@ScaldaYT]

Brillant as always. I just bought your lamp files thank you for sharing. take care and happy making

[@DMonZ1988]

wow Joe, this is really nicely done! its a very well polished model and the lamp looks beautiful!

[@allenovery10]

Hi - complete novice here! Do you still need a step down board if you use a 5v power supply to begin with? Also, the recommended board says it takes 6v minimum. Finally, thinking of working with a WiFi enabled microcontroller, any tips here? Much appreciated!

[@exhaustedproduct]

Hey, Did you find anything regarding your doubt? Actually, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

[@thepapatech2067]

You are the man! Absolutely fantastic! Congratulations on a great project.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thanks buddy

[@radiognome8969]

Hi! thank you for this project. I decide to make one for present. So can you tell me which power supply i need exactly. In video you have 9v-...1A. In the link below 9V-.....2A. When you show sketch you tell about half briteness and 9V-...3A. Why 9V? Why I can`t take 5V supply for example?

[@versus023]

Hye! great video! thanks for this! Im plannign a similar project, but people keep mentionning ESP32 or something like that as a controler, what would you suggest ?

The lamp is also very cool. But what is that black-red electronic components holder you are using for soldering? :)

[@DavidB-fy8oj]

Great project and I'm printing my second one right now as a gift for my granddaughter. But I do have a question about the effects button and not all of the effects working, it seems that I'm only getting 10 of the possible 19 effects (case 0 - 18 in the listing) with the FastLED Library and ALLEffects (Jan 3,2019 Ver 1.0). I followed all your directions for the build, except I skipped using the DC converter because I already had a 5 volt 4A power supply.

[@Opa10]

David, did you figure this out? my button does not work at all and just shows the default light show. i did upload the alleffects

[@DavidB-fy8oj]

Ruben, Here are a few things to check. 1. Make sure you check your switch for which leads are open and closed when you press the button. My switch has 4 leads on it but only one pair goes from Open to Closed state when you press the button. I had to check each button as I put each Light Base together. 2. Make sure you have a good solder connection between your switch and the D2 connection and GND (Ground) on the Nano board. 3. Trim down the Button Post block so it slides in the slot of the Lamp Base smoothly and make sure you can hear the "click" of the switch button when you push on the post. If the post is too tight it will either not contact the switch button or hold it down all the time.

[@karlnowakowski7866]

Great project. A couple of questions, could you run the light and the Arduino of a USB power supply and is the fan necessary? I’m guessing it’s to remove the heat from the LEDs.

[@3DMakerNoob]

You can use the USB as a power supply as long as the brightness of the LEDs is reduced. The fan might not be necessary at that point as they won’t emit too much heat

[@justinhawley7783]

Unbelievable tutorial man. Do you know where else you can get great button sketches? I find it really hard for some reason.

[@jazzmaster2201]

I made this lamp and it is great! Great modeling for the prints and great electronic instructions. I am a newbie at programming and am having difficulty replicating the really cool lamp effects you showed at the end of this video. I have used the AllEffects_FastLED code you referred to but as good as its effects are, they can't compare to the effects you demonstrated. Any change you could share that code?

[@jimjh2671]

This is AWESOME Joe I will be making this for sure

[@3DMakerNoob]

Awesome! :)

[@vansien]

You always turn out the best projects, great work

[@onlygamer1939]

you didnt need the buck converter. The Vin pin can take up to 12V and the internal voltage regulator makes it 5V

[@Av3rjkRRow]

nice project. Great light design!!something we can all use, and great for practice or beginers :)

[@marcushanke540]

Really awesome ... bought a starter kit some days ago. Glad that I did it. Now I have an additional project on my list 😀. Great job

[@thepixelpusher]

Do you have this .STL on Thingaverse?

[@Otaku437]

Is the diffusing shade 3D printed? If so how did you get it so uniform without any 3D printing artifacts? It would be interesting to print a Lithophane shade to see how the colors combine with the B&W images.

[@Anonymouspock]

He said it in the video: 0 infill. So there's an air gap between two solid shells.

[@victormorving7265]

amazing, how did you do the timelapse? please tell :) i mean without seen the extruder going nuts, and so smooth..

[@dannore8077]

If i use a 5v power supply, then i would only need the arduino right? Or will i have to put something different in

[@Strangeworries]

Hey, great project, but why is the fan necessary?

[@isaaclyonsf1]

The LEDs can get warm, especially in enclosed spaces. PLA doesn't like heat🙂

[@floridabatty]

What a great project to do!! It looks amazing!! I've printed all the parts, wired everything up......but I can't get the tactile button to change lighting effects. Any idea what might be wrong? One pin soldered to GND (Next to D2) the other pin to D2 on the Nano. I metered out the button to make sure I had the right pins. The final step before assembly is killing me.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Make sure the Arduino code reflects the D2 pin that’s all I can think of. Last step is to confirm the button actually does make the contact when pressed

[@floridabatty]

@@3DMakerNoob Thanks for the reply. If I were using the "Color Palette" example, where would I find the line in the Arduino code that would reflect the D2 pin (or where to define it)? This is my first time using an Arduino, but it's very very interesting.

[@Rushmere3D]

@@floridabatty From what I understand, that sketch doesn't have button function. The other sketch Joe shows uses the button function to change patterns.

[@GustavoCeron]

Awesome work. Does it work with Alexa voice commands?

[@justinhawley7783]

If anyone has wondered why the effects are not changing properly from one to the other (skipping or going back to the beginning), it's due to a problem called bounce. Basically, the switch is bouncing on and off and the Arduino is taking that information too quickly, resulting in unpredictable toggling. There's a common way to use a resistor and capacitor with the button, but that's a pain and requires a breadboard. I'm looking into a way to get it to work with code and will share once I get it to work.

[@aepfelpfluecker]

Just implement a simple debounce algorithm

[@christhornton7131]

just ordered everything off your list, hoping to build my own

[@AdnanASyukri]

Wow this is amazing! Salute to your great job! 👍🏻 you give me much inspirations! I'm sure i will make this

[@tapomoychatterjee]

I want to make similar thing but i want it to control via my smartphone. I want the option of solid light (colour can be changed via smartphone) as well as those patterns. But I don't understand what to do. I have already bought a NodeMCU and ARGB stips.

[@byseven]

AWESOME !!! Just Finished !!!! Thanks for sharing !!! AWESOME PROJECT. Next One will be with a ESP8266

[@3DMakerNoob]

I’m designing a special one right now, will be released soon ;)

[@byseven]

@@3DMakerNoob I just order a 5v 6amp power supply. I am changing the code . This is a great hobby.

[@stefanwentink]

@@3DMakerNoob Any chance that this will be up soon? I am really interested in it.

[@louis-ericsimard7659]

This is so satisfying; thanks for sharing !

[@printednest]

you were inspiration for our project, but we went by adafruit neopixel and touch button TTP223 its also cool, and kids love it

[@m00st]

Nice 3d print design, really thought through!

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thank you :)

[@stefi300972]

just finished building mine, i forgot to change the steps in marlin on z axis after swapping the stepper drivers and ended up with a lamp shade at 300mm so thought screw it and printed an extra tower part and now i have a really big lamp with 200 led's haha

[@tiredeys]

Great Project, have you maybe a link for the white Filament you use?

[@3DMakerNoob]

Filamentive natural ePLA, should be in the video description

[@Inventorsquare]

Fantastic tutorial and design Joe. Very easy to follow along. How could you make it a Bluetooth speaker?

[@esthereuticterra2314]

I am new to 3d design. Is there any 3d design software recommendation (for beginners)? Tysm!

[@torquebiker9959]

Nice project. I think I will try that, but with ESP32 and WLED.

[@oh_yeah_]

you could have used esp with wled installed on them.. would have been very easy and wifi controlled

[@TheHobbyNerd]

Great project and well filmed.

[@farmingo6649]

Hi everyone, I can't make a kind of white top cover. The other coins turned out great, but when making the white cover, the inner filling will ruin the entire lighting effect. When I make the filling 0%, it prints as a single wall. Can someone please tell me how I should make the cura settings for the white top cover as in the video?

[@acgkplh]

Thanks for this. I bought a few sets of all the parts from your links. When you say Filamentum Epla do you mean thier extrafil pla? Thanks

[@3DMakerNoob]

It’s Filamentive ePLA

[@jovian6367]

How do you know if the power supply can supply enough current? Great video!

[@PROTOCONCEPT]

These LED are 5V leds. One 2832 LED needs 60mA, so for 100 LED, you need 100*0.06=6A. You have to buy a power supply that can give a little more...With 5V 2A, you can power 2÷0.06=33 LED.

[@dognoseranger]

@@PROTOCONCEPT And that's if you run them full brightness. I set mine to 70 (out of 255) and they are more than bright enough. Mine has 60 LEDs, so really I can get away with an under .5 amp supply. FastLED also has power management methods so you can set max power/amps just in case: fastled.io/docs/3.1/group___power.html

[@dechrysen]

Do the LEDs get that hot? Or why the fan?

[@tomgray7049]

Nice project. I am having trouble with my ender 3. Any chance you can print these and sell me to usa?

[@nataliesilsbury1888]

Are you sure this is safe? You are only meant to draw a tiny amount of power from those arduino pins.. Having made a few LED lamps before, the biggest hurdle has always been powering it. (Especially for RGB). You need at least 1 amp for a strip your size at peak. If it's possible to make them /power with an arduino, please do share how, because as far as I know those arduinos safety ratings are at something like 25mA per channel.. 40 x less than what this strip would be using. But if we can power (and control) via an arduino, that saves 80% of the lamp costs.

[@lef149]

The LEDs aren't being powered by the Arduino.

[@krispyengineering7489]

Does this project need a fan? I understand the led's are enclosed but I can't imagine them giving off too much heat.

[@3DMakerNoob]

If you’re not using full brightness then the fan is not really needed

[@krispyengineering7489]

@@3DMakerNoob Makes sense, thanks for the reply!

[@KidCe.]

You should not use the VIN pin, it has a voltage regulator connected to it. Should only connect 7-12v to thos. You already have a 5V so you can connect it to the 5V pin

[@3DMakerNoob]

Check the comments....

[@janakaone]

Why not use wled with an esp32 instead of the arduino?

[@Chris90gr]

Are there any updated versions for this? Also, did you sand that PLA cover? How much total cost?

[@insaisissable3938]

Awesome project! Very well done!

[@n1C87]

Hey Josheph. Great Video. This will be my first arduino project :) One question: Would it work if I use the DC5V adapter to power the arduino directly instead of using the Step Down Module?

[@NikiHunwick]

Yes

[@williamfrice]

the power brick he was using supplied 9v so you technically dont even need the step down converter. The arduino nano can take 5-12v of power through vin

[@acgkplh]

Hi. Can you confirm how many LED's per meter the strip you purchased has please? I think the bangood seller has changed the spec since you posted your links. There are some people complaining on the reviews of the LEDs that you linked

[@grumpydude1598]

REALLY nice work Joe, i'll be sure to make some of these soon :D

[@samuelebaiano6505]

How you can feed that led with only the arduino, that can give only 40mah output?

[@sharkattack2009]

Nice project just finished printing one, but having problems printing the effect button extension. What setting did you use? Mine comes out really bad.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Print it in PLA and make sure you print extremely slow with the fan on so you give time for the PLA to solidify :)

[@sharkattack2009]

@@3DMakerNoob I tried at 25mms I'll drop it to 15mms and see if that helps thank you.