Save $100 and Upgrade Your Tuning Machines Yourself!

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DEWALT 8V MAX Cordless Screwdriver: amzn.to/44Txaqt
Foam Neck Rest: stewmac.sjv.io/3eZo5v
String Winder: stewmac.sjv.io/MmBy4P
Waverly Tuning Machines: stewmac.sjv.io/LXm4Ja
Waverly Drill Guide: stewmac.sjv.io/AW32rR
Tunder Drilling Reamers: stewmac.sjv.io/B0ybj9
StewMac Patternmakers Vice: stewmac.sjv.io/mgVa2e
Yellow Beeswax Block: amzn.to/3KnHe2M

[@johnfletcher7437]

Absolutely brilliant!!! I found out the hard way that not all repairs are done well. I had to learn how to do most of things myself and now do all of my own repairs, modifications and maintenance with confidence. Just takes practice and a little self-confidence! thanks very much! from Lancashire, rainy Great Britain. Best Wishes, John F

[@vagata123]

For those who dont want quite as much work. Just go buy some convertion bushings or buy tuners that fit in the holes present in the guitar.

[@rmaxtpmx]

Or....you can get what you actually want, and learn how to do a little work.

[@karljshaw]

As always, nicely done gentlemen... The more I see of what you do, the more proud (prouder?) I am of my Driftwood guitars. Keep on keepin' on! Kindest regards, Karl

[@respejo15]

Nice! I’ve been working up the courage to swap the factory tuners on my HD-28. Thanks for another great video guys!

[@paintnamer6403]

This is a good video that explains a lot. I took my open back tuners apart and cleaned then lubed them and that fixed the problem.

[@BradyMcCabe]

That dewalt screwdriver is freaking solid. I bought mine a few years ago. It is awesome for light touches and would be awesome for an electrician installing a ton of faceplates on outlets, etc. Once you get a feel for it's gyroscopic activation, it is the fizz indeed. Great video from Florida!

[@jchavins]

its $119........a Ryobi is $24.......I've been using mine for string changes for 4 or 5 years.....and everything else that doesn't take a more powerful drill....its solid too

[@vocalion9519]

Take care in removing bushings. I managed to put a crack in my headplate removing one. Buy or create a purpose-built tool that will push out the busing while supporting the area of the headplate surrounding the bushing.

[@dankygnome5083]

Bro, I got a set while on sale! I’m excited to use em on my first build. 😅🤞🏼 This is my favorite Lutherie channel by far. Love your work.

[@bmfilmnut]

I've done similar modifications to replace tuners but instead of using a dowel I made a plug using a plug cutter and then drilled it to the proper hole size and position. That way the grain is running the same direction as the headstock wood rather than across the grain when using a dowel. I can get almost a perfect match and it's actually less work than turning a dowel.

[@BigHeinen]

Hahahaha - I love your wood 'lathe' @ 7:25! Ingenious use of the drill press.

[@BenjaminGonzalez-wv3cy]

Wonderful! I am going to try those Waverly Peg Tuners - they do look great too!

[@jasper_north]

Had it done on my D18. Love it

[@johnmurret2290]

Great video. I’ll also call out that by using the original bushings you and not using the newer ones you don’t have to try to deal with the raccoon eyes that are there on the veneer from where the old bushings sat for decades. I dealt with this on a friends martin where I upgraded tuning machines and watched a few of Brian Kinsey’s videos…even he tells you that you can still see it when you sand and buff. Your solution avoids that headache. Nicely done!

[@LegsON]

I dud this on 3 guitars, their original Grover rotomatics are screwed so tight that nut dents are deep and you can't remove them completely without refinishing. Pain.

[@ScottDaviesCwrwHaf]

Try looking up cocktail sticks. Available in pretty much any shop in the uk. Round pointy sticks. I use them for the same sort of job 😊

[@Ron_Masterjohn]

Thank you for the great video showing how to do this. Bet you really enjoy working on guitars.

[@barrychristian4050]

Great video guys, liking the DeWalt 👍 Some useful tips, for making a dowel look up dowel making jig/plate plenty of easy little jigs videos. For fitting slotted screws first wind in a same size pozi/Phillips screw, take out then fit slotted screw with candle wax. For you guys over the pond check out Izzy swan's video on drill bits, he had some awesome drill bits on there but seemed they're only available in USA. For drilling square use the drill press to drill a hole in a scrap piece and then use as drilling guide, if no drill press use a scrap piece of wood with square cut end, mark 2lines on the end the size of drill , when drilling keep drill bit against end and between lines

[@goodknight37]

Those are fantastic guitars. My brother bought one from 77’ in the mid 90’s. Hidden jem👍

[@ptalbany]

very nice here are a few tips I use you can use any bar soap to lube the screws and tape on the back of head stock when drilling helps stop splintering as well

[@michael_caz_nyc]

Trying to upgrade the Tuners on my Bass ( Sterling Stingray SS-4 Short Scale ) but they don't make Drop-in Upgrades. Your camera is phenomenal = so clear & detailed. Enjoyed this one alot. Fantastic job.

[@bassnsax]

First off, congrats on the Sterling Short Scale Sting Ray - I had played one of those in a store, and was BLOWN AWAY! It made me seriously consider converting my Sting Ray to all passive (that thought still hasn't left my brain 😅). I had replaced the tuners on my Sterling by Music Man Ray35HH with a set of lightweight Sadowsky tuners (not as lightweight as Hipshot's, but similar design, and still lighter than the stock tuners) I had ordered from Thomann. The diameter of the tuning peg was the same as the stock tuners, but since I went from a 4 screw tuner plate to a single screw plate, I drilled out the 4 existing screw holes, filled them with dowels and put a coat of clear polyurethane over. I then put the 4 bass-side tuners into the slots, lined them up with a straight edge and marked out where the new screw holes would go (the single treble-side tuner alignment was... "something else" 😅). But, like they said in the video, it's just wood, you can try it yourself...or take it to a luthier.

[@joshuapaulsen7414]

Awesome episode, as usual. Loved it.

[@poorjudjement]

A good candidate for bridge slotting and solid bridge pins too!

[@SilasHumphreys]

Tuners are the second most touched thing on your acoustic guitar, after the strings, so it makes sense to get the nicest ones you can. I'm going to be replacing the tuning machines on my electric the next time Stewmac has a sale, or maybe even sooner if I get good progress on the telecaster I'm planning to build.

[@user-gp5fu2fd3z]

Can't wait until you cut it in half...

[@annunacky4463]

Ah man! Don’t remind me…it’s traumatic to see that even once.

[@MashaT22]

Always for science! 🎸🔬🧫🥼⚗️🧪👨🏻‍🔬

[@annunacky4463]

Tip. Make sure the tuners go on the correct side. I installed some backwards so they turned backwards to tune them!

[@Joe___R]

Philips head screws were originally designed that way so they would strip out before they were over torqued and the head breaking off. Flat head screws are a little more difficult to use, but they were not designed to fail. Waverly most likely uses them for the classic look just like the rest of that tuner.

[@daryllossing1340]

Nice demo! learned a lot...........Thanks for not sawing the guitar in half!!!

[@shadowminister4090]

Steve from Manotick Stringworks uses the same Dewalt screwdriver thing and it's amazing.

[@christianboddum8783]

Very enjoyable video - kudos!

[@scottakam]

Love the lathe!

[@guitartec]

Fun Fact... StewMac owns the Waverly brand, which is why they give them so much space in their catalog. Most Waverly butterbeans don't have a knob tension adjustment, but Grover butterbeans do at the end of the worm gear shaft. The Schertler tuners StewMac sells are some of the finest tuners I've ever used, but they don't have a traditional look, especially the oval gear plate. Even so, I put them on my Martin dread. Couldn't be happier.

[@SBanas]

There are only a handful of luthiers that I concider "Bob Ross of the guitar", You, Dan from StewMac, Ted Woodford... But for some reason only You've decided to go for a full steal his look kind of vibe.😂 Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love it! Thanks for the video!

[@guitarmanjoe9450]

6:15 you could also use conversion bushings

[@CMRWoodworks]

Some great tips. THANKS!

[@Kevin.odonnell]

That bit at the end is a stand-off bit, which functionally is basically what you described only intended for stand-off posts in electronics :)

[@patrickkeenan6331]

Amazing work! That guitar looks (and probably tunes) great!

[@kristopherk5454]

Great editing by the way. I can tell you put a lot of work to shortening all the working parts to something watchable!!!!

[@jakedooom]

I like the casual way you chuck away the old strings, and the tooth pick…. Nice and messy!

[@mhowden]

I've had that DeWalt for years and it is the only tool that I ever recommend to anyone.

[@RobertNolan]

It's like watching Wayne Coyne guest host on This Old House. I love it!

[@pabloplaysguitar]

These "lawsuit" Takamines have been gaining popularity lately, 1:05 doesn't surprise me he loves this thing. From my understanding, Martin set up factories and supply chains in Japan to make them for an international market, but plans fell through. Long story short, Takamine is selling guitars with Martin specs and stops when they get a cease and desist letter (not taken to court, which many people believe). "Hotel California" was recorded on one of these lawsuit 12 Strings, and I wouldn't say these are bad guitars by any means. Still, they're a modder's dream bones because dollar per dollar you can find good deals if you look hard enough. You have the EF360S. The S means that it has a solid top, not a laminated top, so if anyone finds one, that's something to look for. For reference, I played a lot of guitars, but nothing--with the exception of Luthier custom builds--really plays like Martins, but these are definitely close if you know how to fix them up. I'll take one any day over their X series, or Road series tbh Awesome video fellas, really gave that Takamine a 2nd life!

[@MegaTubescreamer]

Couldn`t have done it better myself,! even down to taking the `point` from the toothpicks,`i also araldite those in` to make sure, 👍 vaseline or petroleum jelly is an economical substitute for beeswax😁 and the wood `plugs` i would have stained mahogany ,it is reassuring to see how a real luthier values and economizes on their time , great job guys !and good fun to watch ,thanks.

[@TheSisrob]

I ((paid someone to 😁)) swap out my really unsatisfying tuners on my Fender Sonoran, which is one of these guitars that just seems to be better than it should be in the first place. We used Fender locking tuners. This video would’ve helped that guy! But an associate in a different store helped him think it through and come up with basically this method demonstrated here. That one change made this Fender acoustic 70% better. I am gonna try the bridge pin trick you fellas talked about, too!

[@GreggFellows]

i bought a 2nd had Alhambra from 1990 which had the same tuning machines on, a decent new pair made such a difference to the guitar..... new nut is next on the cards

[@deanallen927]

"It's their guitars" also their skillset and as responsible adults they have a responsibility to assess that. these videos are great and possibly prevent people from messing up their guitars by going in blind. What kind of metals are the bushings? BIG differences between drilling through brass, zinc and steel. Did you lube the inside of the bushings? So many times I've gotten the stickiness out of tuners that way. Great video as usual.

[@Maydoggie]

I bought my first nicer new guitar (a Martin 000-15M) about 2 years ago. I wanted to install a K&K Pure Mini in it, but didn't want to take it to a luthier or a tech, because a) I'm impatient, b) I'm cheap, and c) I have tools and KZbin. After watching several "How To Install..." videos, I nervously drilled a ½" hole into my brand new $1400 guitar. Everything worked out just fine, and although I'm not quite ready to tackle a neck reset or a re-fret, I'll take on most any guitar work. I've changed nuts on a couple of guitars, sanded and replaced a saddle, and I've been doing my own setups for a few years. It's not that hard to do a little guitar work. Kind of blows my mind that some people won't even try to change their own guitar strings.

[@howabouthetruth2157]

Man I'm glad I decided to "watch this video anyway" ( I already have the confidence to change out my own tuning machines ) for the sole reason that you DO have a video of a real high-end Japanese Takamine, and from the "lawsuit" era to boot. Posting this comment before watching the video and I hope to hear this guitar with decent strings here. I'm a diehard Takamine player ( Japanese only ) through and through. I've owned & gigged with 3 of them ( Japanese, all produced in the 90's & purchased brand new ) and all 3 were hands down better than any other acoustics I owned & gigged with, and that includes a high-end Taylor I also owned ( also purchased brand new ). The Takamine's had more authentic tones and were MUCH MORE touch responsive vs the Taylor, whether played acoustically or plugged into a PA system on stage ( all of you advanced guitarists know exactly what I'm talking about ), and when it came to the onboard electronics of both, the Takamine systems just can't be beat in my opinion. ( Some versions of the Takamine electronics sound better than others of course. ) If you play a Japanese Tak plugged into a PA system and you're getting that annoying "rubber band piezo sound", I can tell you that you are NOT using the proper settings on the Takamine system. Nothing beats well-placed high-end microphones of course, but the Takamine systems come closer than anything else I've ever tried........and I tried just about everything. Incidentally, I wound up selling my Taylor for all of the reasons listed above. It was a great guitar, but not as good as my beloved Takamine's. Every working musician in my area agreed. When it comes to comparing manufactured acoustic guitars, the fine detail and quality of true craftsmanship of the Japanese Takamine's take a back seat to no one. Just find the right body shape/model with tone woods that suits your own playing and ear. I can only imagine how great any of their custom shop handmade acoustics produced ONLY by their top 2 master luthiers must sound. YES.........Takamine DOES have a custom shop made to order division for those who can afford it. Guitars costing well into 5 figures. I've seen them, but never got to play one.

[@lodelface]

im selling my 1974 japan takamine lawsuit im in mexico but we can work something out (model f-310s ) like a matin 00-28

[@howabouthetruth2157]

Why not keep it? That's a special guitar. Thanks for the offer, sincerely.........but I have just recently discovered ( since posting my original comment here ) HSIENMO acoustic guitars. Founder/owner Li Chen is a Master Luthier, along with his entire team, who all have 15 to 20 yrs experience. Even though he ramped up & invested into a state of the art factory, (ALL of the assembly & finishing/details are done BY HAND ) Li Chen insists on producing LESS than 500 guitars a year........more like around 450 actually. He has the ability to produce at least a couple thousand a year. But he states he's more interested in building the finest guitars possible vs mass production. I never imagined that I would brag up a Chinese guitar factory......let alone buying TWO of his Custom Shop guitars within 3 weeks of each other. Loved the first one SO much, I immediately bought the 2nd.......and he's currently custom building a 3rd for me. INCREDIBLY THIN finishes, so his 5A Adirondack spruce/Sinker redwood tops ( just to name a couple ) and SOLID tonewood backs & sides can really move. His quality ( playability, overall builds, tone, volume, sustain, etc ) is outstanding, the instruments are neat as a pin on the inside as well.......not a splinter or chisel mark to be found anywhere.......and with strings removed, I used a small light and mirror to inspect. VERY impressive. Sure, we are truly living in the golden age of lutherie today, with SO many phenomenal builders/factories........but I'm here to say the world need to be put on notice: Li Chen and his team are currently producing the very best acoustic guitars in terms of quality & value for your hard earned dollar. Although ALL of his guitars easily stand up to, and compare to similar models from other makers costing THOUSANDS more.........he doesn't have a single "cheap guitar" in his entire lineup. His prices start at just south of $900 dollars for the less appointed instruments........and you can literally have him build you ( just 1 of many examples ) an absolutely killer knock-off of a Lowden F-50 model with the exclusive "Dolphin bracing", WITH SINKER REDWOOD TOP, SOLID AFRICAN BLACKWOOD BACK & SIDES, 5 PC WHOLE ( entire length from heel to headstock, NO "stacked heel" or "scarf joints" ) LAMINATED MAHOGANY/ROSEWOOD STRIPS NECK, GOTOH PRECISION TUNERS, QUILTED MAHOGANY ARMREST & BINDING/PURFLING, ABALONE/SPALTED MAPLE ROSETTE, MADAGASCAR ROSEWOOD BRIDGE, ETC (exactly like the Lowden that costs near $15,000 USD )............FOR ONLY $2800. BUILT CUSTOM JUST FOR YOU, AND DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR IN A QUALITY HARDSHELL CASE WITHIN 3 MONTHS.......I KID YOU NOT!!! (This is the guitar that I'm having him build for me right now. ) Or...... you can buy from his current stock, including many guitars available from his Custom Shop, and I swear, no matter where you live, that Hsienmo guitar will arrive IN ONLY 5 BUSINESS DAYS, ( both of mine did ) WITH FREE SHIPPING, NO DUTY TAX, OR FEES. I almost forgot: ALL of his guitars come with quality 2-way adjustable truss rod with twin carbon fiber rods inserted through the entire length of the neck, making them incredibly stable, PLUS he uses "the floating fingerboard design" like Furch guitars on EVERY MODEL.......and 3 of his models come with the McPherson style floating, cantilvered neck/fingerboard ( I own 1 of each right now. ) ALL models also come with genuine camel bone nut, saddle, and pins. ALL bridges are slotted nicely so that the string break angle over the saddle is very steep.......just the way they SHOULD be......but often are NOT with MOST MARTINS. Martin quit slotting their bridges & using solid bridge pins with nice, steep string/break angles back in 1945, so all Martins since NEED THIS MODIFICATION DONE IN ORDER TO SOUND BETTER. I'm 62 yrs old. I've been playing guitar for 50 years and gigged professionally ( guitar/singer/blues harp ) all over east/central Florida for many years. I'm here to say: the best kept secret in super fine instruments with the most expensive (and rare ) tonewoods for UNBELIEVABLE PRICES........are coming out of the Hsienmo Guitars factory. ( pronounced "She-en-mo"...after his first daughter ) But the word is spreading like wildfire. Check out their youtube channel of the same name. Also: see all of the reviews of his guitars all over youtube. With such incredible quality, then WHY the incredibly low prices? The answer is simple: when you live under a communist government, you're only allowed to make so much money.........any more profits than that, and that communist government will take it away from you........seriously. Li Chen also speaks to you directly via emails. Li Chen has made it to where you do NOT have to be rich.......in order to buy, own, and play some of the finest guitars with the finest tonewoods in the world. But guitarists interested had best act soon..........because sooner than later as word keeps spreading, that "2 to 3 month wait list" for a totally custom built guitar to your exact spec's.......will turn into a 2 YEAR waiting list. The exact same thing has happened with other guitar factories. @@lodelface

[@zwsh89]

You guys linked to the d’dario black plastic tuning drillbit but you guys were using the music nomad blue rubber-lined bit, which grips the tuner better and offers a little scratch and bump protection for the tuner and the headstock, nitpicky, I know, but in a video about tuners, I think the difference is worth the few bucks extra. Everyone go grab one of those, I just bought a backup one now that we’re talking about them, I like them so much haha

[@guybross1200]

Good one guys. Thanx Guy ruskin FL.

[@Mr.PhatsVarietyVibesShow]

those look dope

[@JoelBiger]

Superb !

[@rakentrail]

For those who don't have $200+ for Waverly machines the Grover 18:1 Sta-tite machines are a solid option.

[@stephenlevendusky1283]

Cool thanks

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@RobMods]

I like your channel, but respectfully, that was a confusing video. The dowelings were unnecessary. In fact having a 1/4" hole right through means the new string posts may bind on the timber. And they'll have to be drilled out if you ever need to replace the bushings. Plus there's a good chance the old machineheads just need cleaning and lubricating. Either way, I'd strongly recommend using a small smear of grease on the string posts where they rub on the bushings, especially since you drilled them by hand. (You have a drill press, and if you couldn't mount the guitar there, then you could have at least drilled a guide block, or even just taken the bushings over to it mounted in a scrap timber block, in which case, you could have even used an end mill.) Also, the timber won't "blow out" with a twist drill, since you are parallel to the grain. And FWIW, 80's Japanese stuff is excellent quality. Look inside that guitar and compare the fitment of the bracings, kerfings, blocks etc to one made by Gibson in the 1980's...

[@halfabee]

Having access to a metal cutting lath and a supply of brass. I would be inclined to make metal bushes to fill the hole and fit the tuners through.

[@RobertSpitzer]

Very cool.

[@caseyholford]

Thank you for not cutting the strings in the middle when removing them. It’s a small thing but it bothers me so much when techs or luthiers do that.

[@lust4bass]

Those original 40 year old tuning machines probably just needed some lubrification.... You make it look simple, but the amount of precision needed for properly installing new, different ones is actually quite high. Not for everybody.

[@scottmorris4914]

So, now that you have the tuning machines off, and the strings tossed. What else should be looked at and “fixed”? Doing a setuP, saddle work, nut work? Should a backer board be clamped to the back? Or because you are drilling end grain, the blowout is minimal if you apply light pressure? Soap works well if you don’t have bees wax.

[@CristianoCezar]

@driftwoodguitars , if you find interesting, please make a video comparing the effect a piezo element have on the acoustic sound of a guitar. In my opinion it "steals" vibration that would reach the guitar bridge and as a consequence, drags resonance as a whole. 🤩🤩🙌🏻🙏🏻

[@frankb518]

1/4" Shaft!!!! That's what I need on the Guild! A lot of the good ones are 5 /16" There are A set of Grafteks I really like but I'd have to drill out the Head stock.....not sure I want to go there....?

[@bassnsax]

Well timed! I was watching this while I was *attempting* to replace the stock tuners on my Squier Paranormal Cabronita baritone Tele with a set of staggered height Gotoh vintage tuners...and the hole was too small for the Gotoh bushings, and the Gotoh tuners are too large in diameter for the stock bushings. But, I'm going to try your tip of drilling out the stock bushings to work with the Gotohs! Question: Is it absolutely necessary to *also* plug the back side of the headstock's tuning peg holes in this case? Or would it be fine to just let the bushings take care of it? I've done the screw-hole-drill-out-and-plug-with-dowels trick for 2 of my basses that I had replaced the tuners (went from vintage-style 4 screws per tuner plate to tuners with just 1 screw), and replaced the stock tuners on a (n arguably excellent) budget semi-hollow 335-copy (which I bought used for $100!) with a set of locking, tulip tuning button tuners that were exact drop-ins.

[@jamesdavid7099]

So is there a disadvantage of just using the reamed bushings without plugging the remaining portion of the hole with wood and drilling to 1/4"? Is the space between the tuning shaft and wood a problem and is that why plugged it? On a side note, I bought a set of Waverleys years ago...the are definitely in a class of their own as far as open tuners go, and you are getting a premium tuner for the high price.

[@Runoratsu]

Pretty big for a Taka-Mini!

[@whatsupchicken]

I guess you can do the same but skip the fill the hole with wood part. Just use the old bushes drill them to fit to the new tuners, install the new tuners, use the old screw holes or make new ones and that's it. Do we actually need to put woods to the holes to hold the tuner pegs? The original was also loose and only the bushers hold them so...?

[@Torquemonster440]

My tuners are fine... but that "Mama's House" old lady haircut definitely does... 😂... jk.. lol ,.. love you Chris.. your channel is awesome.. please cut your hair.

[@MatthewPeskay]

Sam Ash will do a tuner swap for $40 and you can sit and play guitars while the tech is working. But I guess that’s not the point of the video. Thanks for all the great content!!

[@calebbhawkins]

They sell oversized bushings for converting these guitars. I’ve used them to upgrade guitars from shoddy cast tuners to butterbean tuners. A lot less work and only costs maybe $9.

[@robertdievendorf3312]

Yes, I’ve used the conversion bushings also. It was an easy, simple solution and look like the originals.

[@Satchmoeddie]

The term "Jobber" has to do with the length of the drill bit, not the tip style. Mechanic's bits are shorter, than jobber bits, twist drill bits are longer and aviation bits are really longer. I have the $800 USA made Copco full index + the #61-80 tiny drill bits, and both sets of Fisch brad point drills, and a bunch of Fisch, Pfel and other Swiss, Austrian, Swedish & German made Forstner bits, plus hole saws, hole cutters and draw plates. I use hypodermic needle tubing for cutting tiny plugs out of mahogany, maple, spruce, koa, bubinga, etc. to plug screw holes with out showing any end grain.

[@Keithphotorama]

I have Fender DC-60 acoustic and want to upgrade the turners, but which ones is best for this guitar?

[@williamdaly1005]

I want to work in this shop!

[@ErickvdK]

Drilling out existing tuner holes to slightly larger diameter can easily crack the headstock! Run your drill in reverse and you won't be sorry...😊

[@felderup]

i'm heading on down to the local for grover mini's to replace the gigantic... things... that are on my bass, they work, but they're so easy to bump, my other guitars, good tuners, but they don't lock, so i'm gonna get to them.

[@chuck540s]

Would 3/8” conversion bushings have made this a little easier? $17 usd. Are the takamine machine heads 3/8” or 10mm? Or 10.5mm cause in that case bushings won’t work? I just bought a take a mine lawsuit in mahogany. Love it!

[@blindboy1787]

Great primer thanks. But you didn’t even play it so we could hear what it sounded like! I had a lawsuit 1979 Washburn Dreadnaught D25 that I gave to my daughter and that is a cannon, volume and tone goodness. Quite rightly rated as great guitars.

[@jaytouvelle2359]

you are the best

[@kevinmorris7722]

Nice job. The brand shouldn't exist off of the efforts of others, but great job fixing shortcomings of a copy.

[@Ravenscaller]

A real Martin of that vintage would have Grover tuners which are fine and the holes match up. And yes these are great guitars. In the days of partnership they were Martins for those of us who couldn't afford Martins. Mexican labor and the Road Series or whatever it was called back then are their replacement. Cheaper Martins with real Martin stickers.

[@pmscalisi]

The Grovers during that time were Rotomatics. One screw hole and a massive hole through the headstock for the tuner mounting hardware. Unless you replace them with modern Rotomatics you’re going to have to do some modification.

[@1980bwc]

They probably send them with flathead screws in order for them to go in vintage guitars. Back before phillips head screws were used. However, as much as Waverly charges for their tuners, I think they can afford to send the customers both options. Lol. Just my thoughts on it.

[@frankb518]

Yes ! Just Bought A Guild " DS-240" New last Spring At A local Guitar shop and it has a real nice warm Tone. Bought the Tuners Are Horrible..... will check this out....... I've Been Shopping for several Months and still On the Fence what to get......

[@XSFlanger]

One question. If upgrading guitar tuners with relatively expensive ones, why not opt for GraphTech's gear ratio tuners where each string has its own matched gear ratio instead of fixed 16:1 by Waverly? They also have an open back tuning machine heads with butterbean buttons and I cost tad cheaper even. Wouldn't that be a better quality of life improvement?

[@Tobajjass]

Don’t StewMac have adapter bushings for these situations? Seems like the easiest solution for a non-luthier

[@robertshorthill6836]

I worked 22 months at Waverly in Bozeman before StemMac called the tuner shop back to Athens. We had a good crew of dedicated people. Sean Tolby ran the mill that cut the bases for the mandolin sets. Not a nicer fellow on the face of the earth. Anyway, I wanted to up grade the tuners on my mid priced Flatiron A-5, but Waverly tuners were way out of my price range, so I opted for Grovers from StewMac and have had no problems at all.

[@jasper_north]

What mm radius do they have? The newest? 21mm?

[@rkimberly985]

OK, where is the link to your battery powered tuning key turner?

[@tmeyer2022]

I would be leary about drilling out the bushings in the headstock. If the drill bit dug into the metal bushing, it could spin the bushing in place, possibly ruining the headstock.

[@DavidDavis-Central_FL]

Gooood afternoon from central Florida! Hope everyone has a great afternoon!

[@bunso212]

Is there a link for the toothpicks?

[@BrianODonohue]

I feel braver now. LOL! Seriously though. Thanks! I have a cheap little Hohner guitar that I picked up for $30. I thought it could be a decent Parlor guitar if I changed the nut, tuners, and saddle.

[@pmscalisi]

Grover and Gotoh make less expensive open back tuners, the Waverlies are considered the best.

[@jmj5150]

nice!

[@tonym1316]

You can just use the metal bit to drill the wood also.

[@matthewbleeker4580]

I wish i could make a guitar with you.

[@theflash1425]

Barring the difficulties on this Takamine, any luthier or tech that charges $100 to install a set of tuners is overcharging their customers, unless they have to "fill & drill" the screw holes, and even then, that's pricy. I try my best to find better tuners that won't require a lot of additional work, in some cases, even matching the screw holes. Other than that, I love your videos, and the quality of your work is outstanding!

[@TheSisrob]

I paid $100 to have mine filled, drilled and replaced (in MI) and it was worth every penny imho. Maybe the market’s lower where you’re at? Maybe it’s really just perceived value.

[@theflash1425]

@@TheSisrob Did your price include the tuners? If so, then it was reasonable IMcheapskateO!

[@adamdelarozza1985]

The guitar's head stock being clamped in a vice like that , supporting the entire guitar body in the air , did i see that right? That's literally putting caution in the wind as tat is usually where the neck breaks from the head but to each their own, luv the Waverly's thanks for the link.

[@robertdievendorf3312]

I was wondering about that too before I reminded myself that the guitar wasn’t a Gibson.😀 Seriously, I didn’t notice if the truss rod access was located on the headstock or not. That’s where Gibson puts it and is why their necks break so easily. Still…..

[@adamdelarozza1985]

@@robertdievendorf3312 Gibson Les Paul has that problem, i wouldn't risk any guitar's head by clamping it in a vice, with its body in the air? please. And then drilling the head in that stressed position is asking for a crack with the vibration from the drill....

[@robertdievendorf3312]

I agree with and shared your concern while watching he video. I kept thinking that the owner needed the guitar that night for a gig. A neck break would have been a disaster. I also kept thinking that the guy is a professional luthier and builds $20,000+ guitars, he must know what he’s doing. I’m glad everything turned out ok.

[@adamdelarozza1985]

@@robertdievendorf3312 True but he did expresses, that he has destroyed some of the guitars that he worked on.

[@FesJ]

I'm thinking about filling my headstock's tuner holes and drilling in new ones to fit 3 on plate tuners. The difference in spacing from the cylinders on the plate tuners to the separate ones is roughly 5mm, so the tuners will be smaller on the headstock(as far as spacing goes). How much does that matter? because I'm scared the intonation or something will get all jank, mind you I'm also replacing the nut and saddle with blanks, so I'm going to be readjusting the intonation from scratch. (all assuming I drill my new holes accurately and such) this is my first time doing this btw, im working on a fairly inexpensive guitar. I just need to know if my little project here doesn't end up meaningless because of some measurements I didn't take into account.

[@FesJ]

I'm actually just gonna use a reamer to smooth out the existing holes and put in machines that just drop in so the only thing I'll have to do is drill in mounting holes. I don't even know how to play guitar really yet and I'm tryna do the most for what? lol I am gonna make my own nut/saddle tho, idk why but understanding intonation and how the physics of the guitar have a part in it is fascinating to me. I'll try slotting the bridge as well.

[@1981FlyingV]

Are Waverly's worth the $200?

[@Mk1DzL]

The glorious MIJ EF360S (S for solid top) laminate guitar that arguably sounded better than a Martin. Too bad we didn't get to hear this one..

[@chrisgonzalez1597]

I only use tonewood toothpicks for repairs.

[@dalgguitars]

Harbor Freight power driver for 19 bucks, perfect for stringing guitars, also does the twisty thing. Totally love it. On a different note; I want his hair. NOT like I want it in a box. NOT like it would be a trophy. NOT creepy. (OK maybe a little creepy) Enjoy it while you are young my friend. I thought my thick hair would never leave me. At 60 I've been proven a fool. My wife has named my bald spot Jerry. She says things like, "good night jerry." Then kisses my head. (Life could be worse.) Don't ever cut it. Flaunt it while you have it!!!

[@johnroznovsky212]

Looks like a retired David Letterman now hosts Driftwood Guitar videos