Say Goodbye to Sediment in Bottled Home Brew

[@OPE08]

Its worth pointing out as well that "good" beer should ALWAYS be poured into a glass. And when pouring you can easily control the sediment. A bottle inhibits your ability to smell the beer as you drink it, meaning you are not getting the full effect of the beer that you either paid dearly for or worked hard on. I have four different styles of glasses that I use depending on the style of beer I am drinking, a habit I've noticed most serious homebrewers pick up to some extent...

[@oibal60]

Bingo!

[@Omizer]

Thanks for your videos and info! I bought 2 dozen of the Sed Ex catchers and they do work great. It's a bit of a workout for the fingers, but doable. I started conditoning a batch and decided to make a second batch and also wanted to use the Sed Ex caps. When the first batch was done conditioning, I placed the bottles in the fridge to cool overnight. The next day, I removed the Sed Ex cap, flipped on a Star San'd twist cap and capped it. It takes only a few seconds to twist off the Sed Ex cap and recap with a twist cap, so it doesn't lose much fizz and you don't have to pour from one bottle to another to eliminate the sediment. Check the price - buying 2 dozen was cheaper for me because we saved on shipping. I've watched many of your videos - some a few times, and learn more all the time. Thank you!

[@mshilko]

FYI: This company went out of business and these are no longer available!!

[@BapelZieN]

No wonder actually, might be the most stupid product I've ever seen in the home brewing community.

[@RANGER2D]

No knocks on you, Craig, as I would be lost without your videos, but a good heads-up and review for a great new product!!!! Whoever designed these is a genius!!! CHEERS!!!!!!

[@rouelibre1]

This the mechanical amswer to bottling champaign. They lean the bottle neck down and turn it everty day so the sediment falls in the neck then they freeze the neck. This ice plug containing the sediments is them expulsed. I prefer fermeting beer in a pail with a spigot at the bottom. Using a vinyl hose, I fill a 1st décantation vat, My trick is to use a 2nd decantation vat to pursue enven further the decantation. It takes an extra week, but it works very good. Beer does not oxydize.

[@rouelibre1]

This is a clever mechanical way to mock-up the freezing of champagne bottle necks. Myself, I prefer to have a first fermentation in a plastic pail with a spigot. Then siphon from the top into a Dame-Jeanne. The trick here is to give the brew another week in a second Dame-Jeanne carefully decanted. There are no sediments left whatsoever. Of course, one must top-up with good quality water in order to chase O² and keep an air-lock valve. Then, for a last carefull siphon decantation into the original pail. Add the carbonating sugar and bottle with the spigot. Quite a clear beer.

[@FormulaQ]

i think what hes saying is - transfer your beer to a secondary, then add a large batch of sugar and let it ferment. If you then siphoned it into bottles fast enough and re-sealed them, wouldnt a little carbonation remain?

[@peteswan5973]

Hi Craig, Great videos! Just getting back into brewing again after a few years off. Very helpful. The Australian bottle (stubbie) you show is a Crown Lager stubbie and is a nice commercial brew but no-one I know uses them for homebrew. All my friends use Coopers stubbies, some of them from many years ago that have dropped "shoulders". Thanks again, very helpful and good to see Coopers being appreciated by people around the world.

[@OPE08]

Fruit "esters" are the direct result of the yeast you chose, and the temperature at which your beer fermented. It is definitely not caused by the sediment, and unless you are unusually sensitive to the taste of esters you shouldn't see it in "most homebrews". Usually, better control of your fermentation temps, and proper yeast choices will minimize or eliminate unwanted flavors. Like the "bannana" flavor in a hefeweizen that was brewed too warm...

[@snydaleid]

Interesting idea but here are the problems I see. 1. Cost. This morning's exchange rate puts them over $3 USD per unit. (this includes the cost of shipping via sea) 2. Quantity They don't sell them in quantities to do a 5 gallon batch. So you're forced to buy at least 2 boxes and you're left buying more than you need. (If all you use are 12 oz bottles) 3. Bottles You're forced to invest into more bottles because they require the screw top type. This makes it impossible to cap them afterwards so you're left with the "Brodie" on the bottle. This also stops you from brewing your next batch until all the beers from the previous batch have been drank. Thank you Craig for doing the review on these and spending the money to show us this new product. I think I'll pass on this and continue to deal with the sediment as usual.

[@TectaKrabaj]

well shit. I don't know if you have individual bottles in your country but I have seen them in every store.

[@AJ-ds9xq]

HeadShot360IN that's exactly what I was thinking.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

what do you mean by transfer and every two weeks? if it ferments in the bottle it will still have sediment

[@ARCSTREAMS]

i got this problem solved using flip top bottles ,i simply invert them in my slotted box while conditioning and all the sediment falls to the bottom(have to rattle them every other day) i then bring em in my sink inverted as i slowly release the bail i do a quick flash burst just enough to flush out the crap and voila a clear sediment free carbonated beer in a bottle

[@Bmxmusikian]

@@wongchong-bi7xw duck

[@ratfink2099]

I can finally share my home brews without having to give the lame old sediment disclaimer to my friends! Thanks for sharing this. (and a belated thanks for all the tips I've employed from your other videos.)

[@RANGER2D]

I would totally buy them-- I'm new to home brewing, so I'm just learning all the tricks, but I can see how these would be huge. I'm enjoying the hobby immensely, but I can see how the sediment would be undesireable to some. This would be an easy fix to that problem, especially for those who you want to try your brew that enjoy drinking from the bottle. I have, unfortunately, run into a few people that insist on drinking from the bottle, and they dislike the last....................

[@buzzenator]

Exactly, the sediment in cider sticks to the bottom of the bottle, it does not pour out...so no issue for cider bottlers. If you are using bottle caps then you are not using screw on bottles, yet this product is for screw on bottles. You will have to change out your entire bottle inventory. Interesting that CraigTube has gone over to kegging.

[@GuydeLombard]

In my experience and from talking with other homebrewers, I've found that secondary fermentation and finings reduce much of (but admittedly not all of) the sediment. As far as the effect of 2ndary fermentation and finings on bottle conditioned carbonation, I haven't had any issues yet. I used one tablet of Whirlfloc in my last 5 Gal. batch of summer ale and it had a great head on it! That said, this product looks cool and I'd try it!

[@MrChip138]

I eliminate most sediment by pouring beer into a fresh vat on bottling day. I have the original fermenter on a table. The new clean fermented on the floor. Using a tube I open the tap and let it drain into the fresh fermenter. Most of the crap stays in the original fermenter. Then I let the beer sit in the new fermenter for a couple of hours to settle before bottling. My beer is very clear and I drink it out of the bottle no worries :-)

[@jizzily]

I don't mind the sediment. Beer should be drunk from glasses anyway. I like using grolsh bottles with snap caps, but thanks Craig, always enjoy your information to make brewing better.

[@Raggo12345]

I really hoped you would show us the sediments, in a small glass, also, at 9:45. Was sad when you poured it out! Just of curiosity. :) Great info! I will see if I can get these here in Scandinavia. Thanks for great videos! Cheers!

[@tmelan]

Let your beer clear out in secondary, rack in a keg and force carbonate will also give you the same no sediment results, i've been doing it for years that way and my beers come out crystal clear even if I pour the whole bottle in a glass.

[@YaMoonSun]

I thoroughly enjoy your videos. You put a lot of effort into them and I highly appreciate your contribution to the brewing community.

[@kiaya007]

thank you craig :) this is going to be awesome. i've got my order in for 150 of these. i'm going to share them with my father-in-law. he's retired now and wants to start brewing his own; so these along with all the other gear i've got for him will complete the total package.

[@galleon1968]

@@micahweiss Don't worry i have 150 tyres to burn! Muppet

[@Foxpest]

In the early 90s I was using a device called a Beerbrite cap, it looked like a long babies teat, trap the sediment in it and then bend it back on itself, trapping sediment. Leave it on, or chill the beer well and replace with a crown cap or plastic reseal. Per item cost very little. Cant find them now though, but the same device is still available for sparkling wine called Vintraps. Cheers Craig.

[@steveskiba471]

I switched to using corn sugar for priming and I no longer get sediment in the bottle. I get a "sugary film" on the bottom of the bottle which stays in there after I pour the beer out. The film easily rinses out to reuse the bottles also.

[@canuckmotovlogs6434]

I tried that as well! The guy at the home brew shop I buy my ingredients and equipment from said right from the beginning to use dried malt extract as a sugar supplement during primary for taste, and dextrose(corn sugar) for bottling it, he said it cuts the sediment perfectly and gives it a good combination. It has worked well for me! I have yet to worry about how I pour it, or how much it moves during transport. My buddy used the same equipment and ingredients, but he used regular sugar to bottle, and corn sugar to ferment and he had the most disgusting floating layer of crap in his beer after he let it condition for 2 weeks. It works.

[@BNAZZ55]

If you want to condition or age your beer you can store them upright, then flip them a week or so before you want to drink them.

[@Whiskeyaficionado]

Love it -- My ONLY little concern is how it LOOKS.. Now lets advance and see who can come up with a similar system that will allow the sediment to leave the beer & "somehow" you twist & cap the beer?

[@oldschoolman1444]

Get two corney kegs, cold crash and filter from one keg to the other and force carbonate. Cold crashing and filtering also removes chill hase and you can fill bottles from the keg plus you don't have to wait for bottles to carbonate. They sound like a pain to clean, I like using pint bottles, you don't have so many to clean that way.

[@alanross2876]

oldschoolman 144 wouldn’t your beer oxidize after bottling from the keg?

[@johngraham8052]

I have some 'champagne' bottles that Leffe beer use. They use a larger cap than standard (a Champagne crown). As part of the champagne making process they put a champagne crown on the bottle and (afaik) ferment upside down. When done they remove the cap (I don't know whether it frozen first) after which it is corked. Seems a superior and more environmentally friendly solution than this. Personally a little yeast in the bottom of the bottle isn't a problem.

[@ChrisMcLovin]

Probably removing the sediment catchers, then capping... but I see that being very time consuming, not to mention other problems. If you're worried about sediment, and have a little home brew operation going I would suggest Kegging the beer.

[@RetroRogersLab]

I can't help but think how much easier it will be to clean and sanitize your bottles using these.

[@frankromani8149]

Im from Australia and we mostly use your style of commercially produced beer bottle (with sharply tapered neck) too!

[@JustlikeEric]

The reason there is sediment, is because you are carbonating the beer. If you poured out the beers into a container and re-bottled your beer it would be flat again. sediment goes hand in hand with carbonating beer by feeding the yeast. The only way you can get no sediment while carbonating is using forced carbination and that means kegging and carbonating it with a CO2 tank, you don't get the sediment, because you are forcing co2 into the beer as opposed to feeding the yeast to create it.

[@aaronbergeron5729]

No matter what the Coopers kit instructions says - if you primary your beer for a minimum of seven days and then secondary for at least 15 days as well as you are carefull when siphoning with your auto siphon you will end up with very little sediment in the bottom of your bottles - maybe 1 or 2 millemters( for Americans 1/16 of an inch)

[@Edmontonrob]

Quite pleased I stumbled across this video today. I've decided to give it a go at brewing my own beer. I've drank home brew that friends have made before and the sediment was always a major deterrent for me. Having seen this video i'm excited now actually to get brewing and give these a try !! I was going to ask if you have a preference for beer kits or ingredients etc...but i'm sure among all of your vids you probably cover that somewhere. Going to settle in now with a beer and watch your vids. lol

[@joeroberts9502]

These are an adaptation of a method used to remove sediment from champagne and presumably, other sparkling white wines too. Beer is in fact a type of sparkling wine, albeit it is made from grain rather than from grapes, so no reason this wouldn't work.

[@mechreports1]

craig you are like a massive book full of brewing infomation, this info you give is probably worth money! but you choose to give it for free and thats awsome of you, keep brewing man :P peace

[@trbig67]

I hated bottling because of this as well. I finally broke down and got a keg and CO2 setup. After the beer gets carbonated up, I bottle into flip-top Grolsch style bottles. If you buy the bottles new, they cost @ $30 for a case of 12 of them. Or.... If you go to the store, a 12 pack of Grolsch beer is... $30. You get your bottles and the beer is free! lol. Next on the to-do list is getting the equipment for home canning beer.

[@Heybat]

Great! But what about poor people like me who live in Iran and can't get those stuff in this country? I tried using activated charcoal powder (it is used in case of food poisoning as an emergency absorbent) and it really does the job. It is just that I have to trash a bit of beer with sediments

[@FusionDeveloper]

Cool. So they eliminated the complication of how to remove sediment AND add a bottle cap, without exposing it to air. I know you can buy a fermentation vessel with that design, but you would still have to expose the brew to air while transfering to bottles. The only way to use the fermentation vessel and still avoid air, would be to use sterile collapsed bags and use the tap to fill the bags with brew, but it would still probably have air between them when connecting. As someone starting out on an ULTRA small scale, these would be a great addition.

[@Foxpest]

A great looking idea! And it works. My only reserve is that each bottle will need a device, and according to item cost, this could be very expensive. I appreciate they are re-useable but only after the beer has been consumed. Also its restricted to threaded bottles, Crown caps in the UK seem to be the norm.

[@godemunkey]

CHEERS, i knew there be a product for this problem. , Man Craig than x for all the Vids man ive been brewing with mr beer and coopers since june of this year and ive got to thank you for finding a answer before i could even ask the question about sediment! and ive never had a bad batch keep showing these great vids

[@PetraKann]

Craig, this Australian invention was show cased on a TV program in Australia called The Inventors An excellent idea - even though the initial investment is significant But the quality of the final beer in the bottles is worth the expense And of course the more times you use the caps the cheaper it becomes Used mine for about 13 brews so far without any problems

[@SS-pi2yi]

If any of you can share your experiences kegging: Once the beer is done in the fermenter for example, and we transfer the beer into a keg : 1a) My understanding is that we store the beer in the keg (say by removing the oxygen and having only CO2 in it) - is this indeed true? b) And if so, how long can it be stored in a closet at room temp this way? Is this the same thing as canned beer? or canned beer has preservatives so not exactly the same. 2) If one does not have a fridge for a keg , then is there a way to use a keg but no fridge available? 3) Lastly if no keg available, is there a way to bottle & carbonate the beer in other containers such as plastic 2L soda bottles placed in the fridge? effectively working mini kegs? could be a stupid question but asking in case it is possible - or others have actually done this? Anyone know anything on the above - please reply - thank you.

[@588158]

Hi Craig, Your video brings to mind something I think I saw on How Its Made about how sediment is removed from champaign. They rest the bottles neck down so the sediment collects on the cork and then they freeze the neck, remove the cork then they put on a new cork.

[@MichaelMickoHeyward]

Thomas Cooper would be turning in his grave!! these 'Australians' must be from Melbourne or something, the rest of us ask the bar staff to roll the stubbies before we hand over any money to get that flavour up and angry.

[@OPE08]

I always do a 2-stage ferment, even when its not neccesary, its just a habit I picked up from when I was an amateur. Force carbonating and then bottling is of course an option, I just don't get it! If I was going to the trouble and expense of buying a Co2 kit I wouldn't bottle, I would keg. And if I wanted to hand it out I could always fill a bottle or growler as needed. And I don't get "yeasty off flavors", because I choose my yeast, ferm temps, and clarifiers carefully, and pour carefully..

[@terpsichoreankid]

Looks like a pretty cool product--but would probably be best for home brewers that don't brew very often--aka wouldn't need a whole lot of them. I did some quick math and the cost for the 150 pack plus shipping wound up being more than it would be to buy a new kegging setup. If the devices were brought in by a distributor here in the States, and you could eliminate the $188 AUD shipping cost, then these things would rock! Thanks for sharing Craig! Great vid!

[@MoskiHomebrew]

With the amount we brew beer, i would need to buy out the company! Interesting concept, maybe good for competition brewers. But i will deal with the sediment for now until i can start kegging.

[@regpollock313]

Looks like a great product. I used to make five cases 3-4 weeks and sediment was always a negative for home brew. Having HCV stops me for starting again, but thanks for your video.

[@cormaccrawley]

@SionMorel You can get Coopers Ox-bar reusable screw-top bottles. Not sure what your UK brewing website is but I'm from Ireland and the Irish brew sites charge about 12-15eu for 24 500ml bottles. They're great!

[@mcflynguyen]

i actually got mr.beer (8 litre) kits on sale for 25$ ! so i bought 2. i didn't know anything about brewing beer, or beer kit prices. but now that i did some research and watched your videos. i should have bought the 4 that were left... oh well too late, i still have 2. its a start. great videos. i cant wait for my first 2 brews to be ready, 1 American lager and one Czech pilsener. next brew will be a coopers irish stout, my wifes favourite ! so i can get some WAF out of this video (WAF : wife approval factor)

[@gerrynicol7634]

Save your money. Just ferment in a carboy for 3 weeks, rack it into another carboy and prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar then bottle and let sit for a week. Very little sediment (if any) occurs. Better yet, after 3 weeks siphon off into a keg and toss it into your kegerator. No bottles to fill, no bottles to wash. :)

[@gurks31]

FYI the bottles that Aussie are using are Crown Lager Bottles... One of the best beers in Australia, I highly recommend you import a slab if you can Craig!

[@davidaharris2561]

Good Video, Fun Hobby. Hobbies are not cheap, just VERY Fulfilling.

[@kiaya007]

@tim291094 as a whole it's a two part system. the yeast catching part unscrews from the valve part, once your beer clears up and the valve part, which never comes off of the bottle becomes the cap. so be careful you don't throw it in the trash like you would a normal beer cap or you'll be buying more. if however you already knew this the simple answer is yes. (that is if you don't mind losing the majority of your CO2 and possibly contaminating your beer by exposing it to the atmosphere) just recap your beers like you normally would and there you go.

[@miketemby9245]

Possibly wasn't available at the time this video was posted, but a Blichmann beer gun is a much more practical solution. Bottle directly from a keg after force carbing = accurate and consistent carb levels and no sediment.

[@skipwebb7871]

I was thinking the same thing. For what you would spent on that system you could almost start kegging and use a Blichmann gun.

[@I_Am_Killer_B]

@welshbrew4u No, most of them filter and then force carbonate, or carb at a temperature and pressure that keeps the CO2 from coming out of solution before capping. Some breweries do bottle-carb, though. You can tell because there's sediment in the bottle, and also because they taste better. :)

[@RadioSnivins]

Correctamundo. I emailed the Sed-Ex mob recently with that very question and they confirmed that their doovers only fit standard screw cap glass beer bottles, and not pry-off types, nor PET plastic bottles.

[@CamStansell]

It is a Crown Lager bottle but they are not common at all. The top 5 sold beers in Australia almost all have different shaped bottles. And i would say that Crown isnt one of them.

[@SuperLAndrus]

I guess they will work great with screw on tops, I prefer to use the pry off lids. Screw top bottles are thinner and have tendencies to explode while carbonating.

[@11bayrat]

Oh boy!! Just went out and bought cases of flip top bottles.I wish I would have known one day sooner.a penny down and a day late. Thanks for sharing

[@petebaker7778]

jesus,,,all that messing around cuts into ones drinking time

[@csgauthier]

That wouldn't help with the sediment in the bottles. The sediment is a bi-product of carbonating, so beer fermented in a carboy that filtered out sediment would have just as much sediment at the bottom of the bottle after conditioning. More importantly, with something like this on a carboy, you wouldn't be able to take samples to check taste, gravity, etc.

[@OPE08]

Who needs fast? And you'd have to use a pretty fine filter to get the yeast out. Force carbonating and then bottling is yet another odd practice I don't get. If you are going to force carbonate then just keg, the whole point of bottle conditioning is the conditioning and aging...

[@RANGER2D]

Forgot the other question-- Are they re-useable?? I'm guessing they are. For those interested, the cost to use these on a basic 5 gallon batch is around $109.00 U.S. plus shipping. That will get you 60 of these. IF they are re-useable, I can see how the cost would be worth it in the long run, provided that sediment bothers you. I think they are great-- have not used them, but for now I will pour lightly, until I find the need for them.

[@timorum]

great idea,keen to try but shipping prices kill the whole concept

[@marcpotgieter7204]

Dan, according to specs, 8g per liter if you are BOTTLING, or 5g per liter if you kegging. Hope this helps

[@OPE08]

True! Its no different than making a cake from a box to learn the basics before you try to bake from scratch.

[@oBARFLYo]

As was mentioned below, it would be great if these worked with the Coopers PET pint bottles. Would love to get rid of sediment but I'm not prepared to replace all 72 of my plastic bottles for the glass equivalent.

[@weirdbeer]

Looks like a good product but a little expensive after shipping to North America. And I'm sure you'd have to pay duty by the time it got here.

[@sheiladelaney6706]

Number 1....Never add ANY sugars to you're beer....use "GYLE' (non fermented wort) keep refrigerated until ready for use..add to cleared beer before bottling.

[@sheiladelaney6706]

I am sure that some variety of homebrews do use cane or corn sugars...however I can't think of any major brewery that adds it to their product.

[@JIMMBAY1]

I'm Not a first time viewer, first time Question. Why Not use some "cheese" cloth on thee end of the Siphon,Hose, yes also Secure it with a Rubber Band etc.. Great filter system for me...

[@wickedspank]

+Jimmy Bayless The problem isn't with sediment getting into the bottle. It's the sediment that is created during the carbonation process.

[@frankblucher5867]

Hi Craig ,I have been home brewing for 20 years , i find racking the beer after 7 days & letting it sit for another 6 days & bottling i get about 90%of the dregs out of the bottles. I find i can drink from the bottle with no problems.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

ahh and you find a flat beer too no doubt ,you must be an englisman from the north,thye like it flat too

[@superdubsolo]

The sediment in my bottles mainly sticks to the bottom of the bottle so it doesn't come out when you pour anyway.

[@applefan236]

but then why not put the fermented wort from the carboy to another carboy then add priming sugar and put that carboy in the fridge. Then you can re siphon to bottle

[@uckridge1]

how to cut a short story long...

[@ShutUpDickheads]

A 7 second "Taste". I like your style! As for those "Australian Beer Bottles", they look like "Crown Lager" bottles. We have many bottles that are similar to the one you use with the "Shoulder" too, but most bottles I drink from have a slight taper.

[@bluebeard2011theorigional]

if yu poor into a second fermenter for a futher two weeks this elininates 99 percent of the sediment and if you poor slowly when filling you get now sediment in your bottles at all it take two weeks longer in the fermenters but the sediment is gone in the second fermenter and you still have to wait for gas to build but its clear from word go

[@LumocolorARTnr1319]

Too bad the company seems to be gone, I found something new that was similar called "Sed Cap" but it's not for sale yet.

[@davidhowell601]

Can't understand a dedicated brewer drinking from the bottle.

[@RadioSnivins]

If you put the Sedexed bottle in the fridge for a week it'll cold crash it and remove all the chill haze proteins.

[@thelongslowgoodbye]

Hi Craig! I recently got a beer brewing kit for christmas and I'm currently brewing my first batch of beer right now. One of the instructions is to use gelatin finings to clear up the beer. Can you give any tips on how to use/apply it?

[@grahamcope1829]

what a great idea i am a first time brewer and find your videos really helpful

[@duramax78]

You should have a amazon store, you deserve to make money on all these items Craig.

[@RANGER2D]

Craig-- Just a couple of questions: 1- You say a "standard" beer bottle. When you do, do you mean a twist-off or a crimp? I'm assuming a twist, as if the SedEx is threaded it would not just "fit" onto a crimper. 2- Are U.S. glass bottles, say, Bud Light, threaded the same as Austraillian or Canadian bottles? 3- Did I see a batch of cider brewing in the background in the first vid?? I hope so!!! Thanks-- REDRANGER

[@OPE08]

Hey Craig, I just can't agree with some beers not being "good pourers" as almost all of what we think of as flavor is actually smell. People who are into gadgets would probably like these things, they just dont make sense to me. I dont have any vids planned, but I am rebuilding my brewhouse so I may show that. ALSO! An old friend of mine is opening a Microbrewery and I am going to be assistant brewer! I'll be chief bottle scrubber too as i am the only employee, there will be vids of that .

[@NewVenari]

I used these on some recycled Budweiser bottles, and I'm getting some sediment on the shoulder and neck of the bottle. Perhaps I should use the australian type of bottle.

[@aseriesoftubes66]

Interesting product, I suppose. Here's what I'd do instead. Cold crash. Keg your beer. Clarify it further using gelatin/polyclar/whatever. Force carbonate. Pump off the first bit that contains the clarifier, and toss it. Beer gun it into your bottles, and cap as usual. Clear beer; no sediment; no funny caps to keep track of. Just my 2 cents.

[@CraigTube]

Not everyone has a keg, beer gun, CO2. Everyone has a soda bottle. Surely one can understand that.

[@TeNeVnTr]

Exactly, I live In an apartment and only have 1 fridge and a family. Bottling is my only choice.

[@MrRiczla]

kegging before and then bottling seems good but how long carbonation will last in bottle?

[@oldschoolman1444]

That's how I do it, so much easier and less cleaning to do. Oh use pint bottles too, even less cleaning to do. =) They look like a pain to clean if you ask me.

[@isunktheship]

This is about bottling.. not kegging..

[@micmacmoc]

good for mate! clearing my beer has become a problem here, thanks! Your brewhouse is so familiar...I think you'd feel well at home here! happy brewing bud!

[@martintiffany6194]

sediment is delicious! swirl it with the last qrtr of the beer then add to the top of the glass!Yummy

[@Potts2k8]

lol those wee things are awsome Craig, nice vd... oh and nice 'torch' too...ahem... yeah you know what I mean lol, when you showcasing the new one - and make sure to act like you don't even notice it's on... laughs all round :P. Speak soon. Potts.

[@JimboHD2005]

Thanks for the video. How long are you secondary fermenting? I've found that after 3 weeks of resting I've had great results without a significant yeast sediment, very negligible amounts. I rack a couple inches above the sediment as well so I do loose a small amount of finished beer but not enough where I'm concerned.

[@MsRhondaPea]

This just seems like a waste of good drinking time. What happened to just pouring slow people. Are we in that big of a rush!!!!

[@ARCSTREAMS]

how would this waste time? its the same thing only you can get rid of the crap once carbonated

[@kratomseeker5258]

to bad they went out of business i want these things because i decided not to use my little kegs anymore because i dont drink that much just alittle each weekend.

[@Januszthepollock]

What I'm not seeing is how full do you make the bottles when you use this? Normally when bottle fermenting as you do with these, you leave a bit of head room but only a little. Additional oxygen in the bottle can lead to unwanted flavors. Seems to me you would be better off investing in CO2 and just force carbonating. BTW, that video could have been half the length if you scripted it.

[@OPE08]

Okay, hang on a sec, you dont want to bother with boiling or mashing, quality yeast or any of that but you will pay money to have individual bottle filters? Why not just run it thru a filter when its on its way to the bottling bucket? Or, I have to say, if you were boiling your wort then you could use isinglass, irish moss or whirflock and drastically reduce the problem. Interesting product, but its like inventing a steel tire instead of picking up the nails in your driveway. No?

[@sockeye14]

You'll need to re cap right away One good trick is chilling the beer to 35 degrees to help the CO2 stay dissolved. You should always transfer beer at a very cold temp anyways,.

[@AliceinWanderland-USA]

Thank you so much for the tutorial! Much appreciated….love the product…can't wait to try this product!

[@jakeanddar]

Looks Like a brilliant idea,however can you fit them on plastic beer bottles and plastic pop bottles? Also are they reusable? I think you refereed to it but not sure. Last question,is the plastic they are made off durable so that it won't snap or crack somewhere when you are twisting them on or off? Thanks Craig. Cheers

[@kratomseeker5258]

i hope another company takes a crack at this because i want to do it like this.

[@dalemaurice7804]

Hi Craig, great video! I noticed that you screwed the sedex device onto the beer bottle. I use the crimp on bottle caps. Do these sediment catchers crimp on? I'm a bit confused.

[@damaincrespo8121]

But what about bottles that are crowned and not screw tops?Almost all craft beers are crowned and those are the ones I recycle for my beer.