SBC Cylinder Head Valve Seal Install and Spring Assembly

Installing new valve seals on a SBC 882 cylinder head and then installing the valve springs.
Intake Seal PN: SS 72527
Exhaust Seal PN: SS 72526

[@cliffweinan3907]

Thanks ! Appreciate the detail, especially how to install o ring shape seal. It has to go on after the spring assembly just before stem retainers. That same o ring seal when old and hardened will grief you to get spring assembly off. Tip that worked for me; Compress spring well and use awl tip to pick down the valve stem and break it up old hardened seal. Just finished my 1973 SBC valve seals replacement.

[@nstereo.]

Thank you! Clean. Simple video that shows all the details. Great job sir!

[@scottzimmerman9619]

Side tip-use motor oil or assembly lube during seal assembly and on the valve stems when installing them-will make things easier and reduce wear!

[@iowadiy6361]

I must not have said that, I definitely recommend that! I used engine oil during assembly.

[@Mr_D555]

In my research the general consensus is use the umbrella type seal or the valve stem O-ring but not both. Using both will cut down too much on the oil supply for valve stem lubrication.

[@iowadiy6361]

I’ve heard that also now too. It’d be interesting to see if the valve stems have been worn down much more than expected after about 10,000 miles

[@jacobgonzalez8995]

@@iowadiy6361 so any update i got the exact seals u got and put both the oring and the exhaust with the intake seals but i am worried about the exhaust plastic umbrella thinkin it might break into pieces shoudl i change them?

[@iowadiy6361]

The plastic umbrella style exhaust seals last a very long time in an engine. The only reason they would break into pieces is if there is not enough clearance for the cam lift

[@dayslife]

thanks for sharing. it's coming along nicely..

[@iowadiy6361]

Thanks!

[@wreckanchor]

Well done.

[@171apples171]

Iowa huh? Well this viewer does his burnouts on the streets of Sioux City lol i thought my guide bosses were too big for positive stop seals but turns out i was looking at the wrong parts. Thanks for those part numbers.

[@iowadiy6361]

Sioux City is a little ways away from me. I’m originally from the Fort Dodge area. I’ve definitely ordered the wrong parts before but I measured the guide boss and valve stem with a caliper. Turns out measuring helps. Lesson learned.

[@171apples171]

@@iowadiy6361 oh yeah ive been there before, bought a 80s camaro from a guy. Yeah im hoping to have this engine together so i can tear it up on the dirt roads along the Loess Hills. Its just a 305 but i spent alot of time on the heads and the bottom end has less than 100k with a factory roller cam. Its going in a 2wd 89 GMC1500 with the 5 spd.

[@iowadiy6361]

That’ll be a fun setup. “Just a 305” is a common phrase, but that’s still a V8 that makes good power. Hope it works out good!

[@billydankert1764]

Thank you for the good info !

[@iowadiy6361]

You’re welcome!

[@stevenulbrich4969]

Can you use the blue seals on the exhaust valve too ? Asking for a friend who may have done that because that was what was laying around in the workshop....

[@iowadiy6361]

Yeah, the positive stops are ok for the exhaust valves too

[@ahmadaldahoud1719]

Hi there , my engine is a 78 Chevy 350 all stock, it's came from a 78 Camaro is these engine use o-ring?

[@jeremyking5684]

Those heads are post to be machined down for the positive seals,your heads has not been machined, under heat those seals will break from being stretched.

[@iowadiy6361]

It’s possible that the valve guides aren’t perfectly concentric with the original machining, but for this engine and this purpose, these will last a long time. The seals were spec’d for this valve size and guide boss.

[@jonathan-of1on]

Are you sure those aren’t the seals that require the guides to be machined down?

[@iowadiy6361]

No, they have a proper fit with the stock machining. The retainer to seal has clearance also with the cam lift for this engine

[@Thefinetime]

Im in the process of rebuilding my entire engine cause im tired of breaking down, and I decided to do the heads last. Come to find out the guy I bought the trans am off of never put any seals on at all. That or they got ate by the motor. Its been running for 3 years with no seals how I have not a clue. Not even serious smoke either. And I rag on that trans am 😅😂😂

[@iowadiy6361]

That’s not uncommon on performance builds.. but people tend to do that on street engines which isn’t exactly the right practice

[@dirtyski1114]

Why not just use the blue style seal on both the intake and exhaust?

[@iowadiy6361]

I definitely could, but the umbrella seal is pretty cheap and does a good job too

[@mikemccann9067]

Question: do you need the o-ring seal if you're already using the positive stop?

[@iowadiy6361]

You could probably get away with skipping the o-ring, but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s just a second defense for the valve stem

[@daisukeigawa769]

Do you know is this fit for 67 327 early SBC??

[@iowadiy6361]

These heads are from mid to late 70s. I measured the valve stem and seal to order the right one

[@martin971]

Can I use the same gasket set on a 1987 350 small block? I'm from Europe and it's not very well known here. Thank you

[@iowadiy6361]

The oil pan gasket and rear main seal are different between this early block and 1987. The heads should be the same, but the best bet is to measure them. If I remember right, it was like 1986 or 1987 that Chevrolet switched to a 1 piece rear main seal.

[@martin971]

@@iowadiy6361 So I don't know if I correctly determined the year of the engine. I have a 10066036 engine made in Mexico. It is intended to be a replacement engine for 1971-1985 model cars and light trucks. It is also stamped 2M0619 0VP. I don't know when my engine was made. I have been studying various internet forums for a long time, but this is the problem of many people even in the US. I will also replace the intake manifold gasket. I am also studying what to buy. It is complicated for a person outside the US and has no one to consult. I wanted to get things before I disassembled the engine so I would have everything ready. I'll have to figure it out somehow. Thank you and I wish you all the best.

[@iowadiy6361]

@martin971 I did some quick research and it seems like what you found was correct that it was a 2 piece rear main seal block. All of the bottom end and even intake gaskets will all be the same as the seals I used. I had some previously machined heads, so I’m not sure on the valve stem seals. That would depend on which heads you have and if they have been machined at some point.

[@martin971]

Thank you very much for your advice. Is the Fel-Pro MS 90314-3 intake manifold gasket suitable?

[@martin971]

Goodwrench 350 sticker on the engine. In the booklet that came with the car and which I am looking through now, it says that the engine was replaced in 2000, the price of the engine was $1447. ))

[@robertyocom263]

Do you have stock valves with those 882 heads?

[@iowadiy6361]

Yes they are. I did this cheaply so I reused the valves except for a bent one.

[@robertyocom263]

@@iowadiy6361 thanks! Same here, wanted to clarify to make sure the part numbers are correct. Great video and thanks for the info.