Small Block Chevy valve adjustment made easy

[@johnnyweaver9580]

I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Thanks

[@collamwells9570]

@@Myvintageiron7512 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa@aaaaaa@a@@a@@@a@@@AA@@a@AA@@a@a@a@@@@@@@@@@@â

[@duckguide4109]

@@Myvintageiron7512 No. Thank you. You have great helpful content :)

[@harp440]

Perfect....always remember boys, most dirt gets into your engine from your tools....make sure your sockets, up inside, are clean😎

[@rickcorbett8415]

You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment

[@kkyler9582]

I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

This won't work with a big roller

[@georgealmeida7382]

Thats how Ive done it for 40 yrs and don't know why anybody would do it any other way unless they just love all that extra turning of the crank..

[@rockfordhx2768]

@@georgealmeida7382 right idiots

[@YouTubeBestCreators]

@@georgealmeida7382 does this work on a 5.3

[@ejoshlee3192]

L

[@crapschamp4206]

I used a dog toy whistle and a rubber hose put it in the number 1.

[@dryver110]

Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod

[@dryver110]

@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.

[@jeffreydurham5342]

He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.

[@terryrangergrumman1453]

Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???

[@dariomendoza1518]

Probably the Easiest method for Beginners!! Thanks for sharing!!

[@michaelmangrum5460]

This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other KZbin instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.

[@nortonsspeedworld8771]

The setting of the GM/Chevrolet valves... GM/Chevrolet never turned an engine over and over and over to achieve complete setting. Timing chain when 1st (installed) dot to dot * IS * 6 up, set 8 of 16, turn once timing tab back to timing tab, set 8 more (obvious as to what ones are not set) set those. *DONE* Yes there IS more than one way to skin a cat, but why go around the block making 3 rights when your already standing there. And then you could set 1 at a time, or the EIEIO (farm pun) method given to people (that buy there cam's) as a way to get it done. I coulda set 16 valves in LESS time than it took to type this out... Run engines over 10 Thousand RPM in racing (as well as other) applications, NEVER experienced any issues or problems. Once the lifter is *OFF* the base circle your there (ready to set) GO... No. 1up cylinder, the setting may be adjusted Ex: 1-3-4-8. In: 1-2-5-7. Then turn the engine one more complete revolution which will bring up. ****** 6 first or 1 won't matter ****** No. 6up cylinder, the valves may be adjusted: Ex 2-5-6-7 In 3-4-6-8

[@Myvintageiron7512]

This does not work with big roller cams. I understand what your saying ive done it many times with small flat tappet cams However I assure you 90% of people reading this have no clue what you are talking about

[@nortonsspeedworld8771]

@@Myvintageiron7512 does on all of our 700+ lift SOLID rollers

[@nortonsspeedworld8771]

@@Myvintageiron7512 does on all of ours

[@void_dweller7851]

What an amazing explanation! I've never heard it explained any better. You sir, win. I learned so much from this .. thank you so much

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Glad it was helpful!

[@guyconnell2250]

I always verify compression TDC by watching the lifters. If intake closes just before TDC, then, at TDC, you are on compression.

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗

[@Supanova70]

I`m old school I get zero up and down lash. rotate 90 deg 3 times. then 1/.2 turn on all. done..

[@charlesmartin7347]

Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Thank You

[@dinonaccarato2989]

Thank you for a well explained video on how to adjust valves I realized what I did wrong watching you thank you so much

[@chrisbraswell8864]

Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.

[@ironhorse127]

Exhaust opening, Intake Closing. Never failed me yet. Great, clear, concise video.

[@Schlipperschlopper]

Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all petrol stations to only one state operated central gas station per city. From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.

[@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol]

Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!

[@THEMOWERMEDIC1]

Great video! Same procedure on hydraulic lifter kohler engines. You got a sub from me!

[@vilmazuniga7170]

I’m old school,after watching your video, I feel real comfortable in adjusting the valves on my 74’ Corvette ! Thanks

[@thenatedog55555]

I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Thanks!

[@oldbiker9739]

that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .

[@jameshester3831]

All you have to do is watch number 6 cylinder on valve overlap and you will be positive number one

[@houseofconversions]

Dude that's not your thumb. Lol

[@xlcrider]

Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.

[@RJ-ds6zo]

I learn so much from your videos. Have rebuild my first sbc with your videos! Thanks!

[@chris230483]

Perfect explanation and helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany

[@TimothyAnderton-c2f]

The best teacher on the Avondale campus I learned a lot from you Torres you are the man !!

[@65elcamino283]

are there other cylinders that you can lash at the same time as you do cylinder #1?

[@trucksfishing9857]

I was thinking of buying 383 storker kit for my 1997 k1500 I am keeping the bore size standard size what do you think sir?

[@SWTWHITEGSR]

Wow this man is awesome ! Literally best lesson i have ever seen .

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).

[@knockdolian12]

Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks

[@davidsmith5766]

great video but never use a deep well socket when adjusting valves

[@roygustafson7729]

We can clearly see why youre an instructor at UTI. I almost went there as a high school graduate. I regret not going everyday 🙏💪😎👍🍀🌅🌆

[@josephbrandt3359]

I'm rebuilding a 396CID with a new COMP-CAM flat tappet/hydraulic lifters, new push rods, new pistons, and the heads are being redone with all new parts. When I go to break in this motor, I'm going to use top grade break in motor oil, and would like to know... The valves have double springs, and I was curious to know if I should remove the inner valve spring to break in the new camshaft and other items listed? If so, should I also use this technique in your video for adjusting the rocker arms and push rods? Thanks, Joseph

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Yes remove them

[@josephbrandt3359]

@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you so very much. When I remove the inner valve springs for the break-in, should I use your method on the outer springs to tighten them… Example, you have a video showing how to adjust valves, giving the hydraulic lifter a bit of “Pre-Load” I’m assuming, once I remove the inner springs, I should tighten the out springs, as if I were adding Pre-Load? Thanks in advance, Joseph

[@darin8087]

On a running motor which has ticking sound do you adjust the same way.

[@jimh4167]

What I was thought With the engine running Back off each rocker until it clicks. Then tighten until it quites down and tighten 1/4 turn... I've run mine at 1/8 turn..

[@Myvintageiron7512]

it is not a good idea to adjust these with the engine running it damages the cam

[@jimh4167]

@@Myvintageiron7512 never had a problem

[@charleswittmer]

Yeah i even have a ser of covers with the tops opened up to keep most of the oil off the headers but learned this dry way is much better. When i was young it never occured to figgure out how they did new un-run motors that never needed to be reset.

[@jamest.5001]

I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...

[@rc2300s2r]

@1:55 hope you aren’t giving any one the thumbs up. 😉

[@rooky55]

The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.

[@strikeforcek9149]

Shit!!! .... I did mine by spinning them and when I felt just BARELY any friction and no slop, I went 3/4 more. :( But, my lifters were out of the motor for 2wks dry and there was no oil in the engine when I assembled it back. You think it'll be ok?

[@mfultz403]

So did you have issues? I killed a cam once going 3/4 past zero lash I have alway done 1/4 turn after lash

[@nicholashudson5020]

I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment. That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.

[@michaelmangrum5460]

You have to have the valvetrain completely installed and ready for adjustment. Watch the video again, because you missed something.

[@deankay4434]

Lift push rod, don't spin. Push rods have round balls on both ends, they are going to spin so false reading. Rocker moves side to side! Yes, it pivots on ball in the center and push rod. False. Used GM specs of 3/4 turn past zero lash, otherwise you will revisit the adjustment. Use sister cylinders as #1 Exh goes down, intake goes up. #5 is sister cylinder on base circle of cam, it is adjusted next. Order; 1,8,6,5,4,3,2 Sisters; 1-5 8-6 4-7 3-2 (Firing order, cut in half) Rock the first / adjust I & E on next sister. 6-1 5-8 7-2 2-3 Rock ------Adjust + 3/4 down. DK, ASE master since 78, retired

[@charleswittmer]

I never imagined there could be so many ways to turn a sbc over so many times to do such a simple job.

[@charleswittmer]

I like the two revolution way on flat tappet cams but the long way on roller cams.

[@deankay4434]

@@charleswittmer After all, I use metal dye on valve tips to see if the middle target is dead on. Ford 360cu in were the worst for guide wear. You could see light thru the sides.

[@victoramato4692]

Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs. This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional. All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that! Do it the right way! Great video!

[@DerrickTheMechanic1975]

You explain things very well..And you know your sh**......Keep the good build videos coming!!

[@pamcarter1708]

When you have the engine on number one com you can adj every rocker arm that has the lifter all the way down then just make one full turn and do the other ones then your threw

[@charleswittmer]

Except when its in the car and the intake is on the motor the lifters are hard to judge.

[@charleswittmer]

I do do it that way though.

[@All-things-shitbox]

I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster

[@markemery49]

The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate. He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.

[@charleswittmer]

​@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.

[@Ricky-mouser]

Am I in the Mandela Effect? I remember when I was young, before I went to diesel, All the manuals I looked at stated 3/4 turn static or running on stock sbc and 1 turn on inline 6. They stated, it puts the lifter in the middle of its travel. With the valve covers off I like the valve overlap method, as far as I know all piston engines fire on closed valves.

[@charleswittmer]

Except if the lfter pumps up and keeps the valve from completely seating. Closer to zero lash also gives the lifter more chance to stabilize with 1/8th turn down.

[@ar501dboy3]

I've tried this, and several other methods on my newly rebuilt L98 with 10088113 heads with Comp Cams hydraulic lifters, but have yet to figure out a way to quiet them down. Apparently they're notoriously loud. I've seen your Best and Worst sbc Cylinder Heads video a couple of times, and was wondering if you've got any suggestions on how to muffle these ridiculously loud heads? kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoGaiWeKjqmHftE

[@miffyleslie]

Quick question.... Do you adjust hyd roller lifters the same way with lash and preload?

[@anthonyevich3836]

Lunch can wait. I'm gonna watch your vid first. #knowledgeispower

[@mr.s.7166]

i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....

[@BruSitdee-kg2bu]

He made it a lot more confusing than it Hass to be. He keeps rotating the fucking engine probably because he’s old and he works for UTI. I’ve been spinning wrenches hard-core since I was 20 and a lot of those guys come out of UTI and you will swear to God they never touched a engine or any boats or nuts that are not attached to them. they sure know how it works though he could have cut the whole middle of his explanation out and it would’ve made more sense, but you know how those whole shop teachers are just keep repeating there self😭😭😂😂🤣 I bet he’s a good teacher if you pay the fuck attention but if he stuck to what he was originally teaching, at least what I caught from it first to the intake valve with your first 8 1/4 turns then go adjust the exhaust valves wit ya next 8 1/4 turns and that’s a wrap this is equal to four revolutions on the crank and that’s why they call it a four stroke😭😭😭🤣🤣😂 seriously I can do it without all of this malarkey but this is a method you’re just gonna need two more rotations on the crank, which would put you at four instead of two 🤷🏾‍♂️🤷🏾🥷🏾

[@kevinshiley9061]

My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

if the lifter is bled down you will be half way down the plunger travel before it stops spinning

[@kevinshiley9061]

@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!

[@kevinshiley9061]

@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.

[@privatename8888]

Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video

[@headlesnorseman701]

With a small cam, can you use the method where you do all the cylinders at TDC #1 twice?

[@joshhall8989]

Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

do it dry

[@youthmanrecords965]

I love your videos , you rascal Keep em’ comin

[@philiplochner8772]

Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???

[@C10chevy85]

I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?

[@briananderson3801]

Should have soaked all the lifters in oil first so they are full of oil then you don't dry start

[@RustyNail5856]

I love your videos, Keep them coming.

[@andylarkins1874]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJvboIRjnLGMhMk here's the derby week before I won. 8min for heat 52min mark for feature. Blew hose in feature. Lost all water never stalled ran entire feature till very end but it was hot hot my electric fan was junk too. Still won and motor was fine just changed head gaskets since it was like 300 degrees Fahrenheit

[@fleetwin1]

Great point about lifting the socket, I could see myself screwing the adjustments all up cuz the socket was holding the pushrod down... Still don't quite understand why the "spinning method" is wrong though...

[@Myvintageiron7512]

when you turn off the engine some of the valves will be open the spring pressure will blead all the pressure out of the lifter so after it sits for a while those lifters will have plungers that are loose you can push the lifter plundger up and down by hand the lifters that have cloeed valves will be pumped up they will feel solid if you try to move the plundger up and down so some of them will spin all the way down the the bottom of the plundger travel (Way to Tight) the others that are pumped up will not spin as soon as you get to 0 lash (too Loose)

[@fleetwin1]

@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for your reply, I think I understand now....I think what you are saying is that it is fairly easy to "spin" the push rod even when the plunger is compressed slightly, much less friction. I "readjusted" the lifters on my 73 Chevy when it had over 200,000 miles on it. There was no real clattering, just a bit more on cold start up...I remember the "half turn down after zero lash" method you talked about, but obviously did it wrong...The engine would barely run after I "readjusted" the lifters, so ended up loosening most of them a 1/4 turn or so.... Sure wish I still had that car....

[@pauljanssen7594]

Just watch the valvetrain when number 6 intake and exhaust overlap top dead center on number then you can just the valves by the firing order by marking the dampener 4 ways every 90 degrees it only takes two turns to adjust all the valves.

[@marioruvalcaba3779]

I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?

[@insomniacshotrods]

Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.

[@DarthMayers]

Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..

[@victoramato4692]

If your damper isn't marked, make tdc 12 o'clock, mark the damper at 3, 6, 9 o'clock with a marker and go to it..!

[@getgetoutout]

Stock or not, always adust intake, then the exhaust, on separate rotations. You adjust the lifter on the OPPOSITE order of fire from the one that is FULLY OPEN. That is the ONLY WAY you can be on the very back of the lobe on the base circle. With #1 intake fully open, adjust #6 intake 1/2 turn in from ZERO lash. 1 - 6 8 - 5 4 - 7 3 - 2 6 - 1 5 - 8 7 - 4 2 - 3

[@spraym88]

AWESOME Video Sir! But I have a question, I bought that exact same Balancer , the car hasent even been driven and it's all ready rusted? Is this a common problem with these Balancers? Thanks

[@Myvintageiron7512]

They are suppose to be painted just like the engine

[@spraym88]

@Myvintageiron7512 Thank You Sir. Love the content.

[@7DeuceCutty212]

Love your videos, thanks. Question? I just performed this on my SBC 350 to verify correct valve adjustments. I noticed that some of the lifters did not seem to "push" in like some others when I did the half turn to " pre load", is this an issue with the lifter or is it just because its probably full of oil and cant push in like some of the others? many thanks!! (As illustrate in your video at 06:40).

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Thats normal the lifters that had spring pressure on them because the valvers were open will blead down

[@7DeuceCutty212]

@@Myvintageiron7512 great, thank you much for your time 😎

[@rodolforios1057]

I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?

[@user-ds9zd8eq6u]

Turn or twisting the push rod dosen't make any difference, if u set the preload too much,or too little!!

[@dougcormack8240]

I have the other timing tab with the tube and small scale before it,can I install the other tab like you have or how do I do it?

[@wireboy253]

Faster way to do this is to pull up the chart for what valves to adjust at #1 compression and at #6 compression.

[@bradywilliams2666]

This is the way I do it. You only need to rotate the engine once. You just have to take your time and be sure you do the correct ones at the correct rotation.

[@havoc9926]

agree thats how i do it also

[@Myvintageiron7512]

that's not faster

[@wireboy253]

How? You only have to rotate it over once. Plus unless you are one of the few that has a balancer with 90 degree increments that’s pretty much the most accurate way to do it.

[@juanyiste9032]

Hola amigo e echo esa graduación en mi Suburban 93 motor 350 y no me queda bien el motor queda muy falloso ahorita si solo gradúa al final una cuarta si me queda más entonado pero metiéndole media vuelta no aque se debe q es lo q puede estar malo los taquetes..??

[@armandolopezdj2855]

VERY HELPFUL VIDEO NICE WORK 👍👍👍

[@nlg062701]

That motor in the video has two different timing marks on the timing chain cover. How do you know which one is accurate?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

I always find true TDC before I put the heads on and mark the balancer

I have a 400 SBC block that i want to build a 377 from. Do you have any experience with this type of destroking an engine and what are some ways would you go about it? I know many guys just use a 350 crank but I am not really to impressed with the idea of using bearing spacers on the mains to use the smaller journal crank. Does anyone make a large journal 350 stock stroke crank? Also I'm not sure which rod length should be used. I have seen both 5.7 and 6 inch rods mentioned in other builds. Can you give me a few of your thoughts on a build like this.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

the use of a 350 crank is a thing of the past, just buy a 377 rotating assembly from Eagle get it balanced and put er togather no clearencing required a 377 is a great engine big rev's big power do me a favor and don't put a set of crappy factory heads on it get something cool like trick flow or AFR and you will have yourself a real screamer

[@joshjarrell4072]

I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it

[@doggettsautomotivemachinin675]

Love your videos! Check me out! Let me know what you think!

[@jameshester1450]

Watch number 64 overlap and you will be positive number one compression

[@seahorse5677]

You have a video on measuring push rods?

[@Snailmailtrucker]

I'm just getting around to installing my 1998 062 vortec heads on my old Stock 1982 Chevy 350 engine... I want to update my hydraulic lifters...do I buy them to fit my 82 350 Block or the 1998 062 chevy 350 Vortec heads ?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

are you changing the cam?

[@Snailmailtrucker]

@@Myvintageiron7512 No I'll be using the same old Flat tappet cam. Thanks !

[@HDKennels]

Thanks for all your videos. I’m thinking of buying aluminum heads for my 327 sbc it has a comp cam with 292 lift. What do you think?

[@jugheadadkins257]

You may want to practice a bit more before making a video, first off i like how you put your "thumb" in spark plug hole to find compression stroke, then you said that if your not on compression stroke, your on exhaust stroke...ummm wouldn't that be the intake stroke ?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

nope your confused

[@CraigB-rw9cu]

Look up vice grip garage on adjusting valves and man it's more easier than this

[@chuckeast7399]

I come to the decision your about full of it as it gets. Have you ever sit and listened to the mess that comes out your mouth. I really need you to explain how spinning is incorrect to get 0 lash. Lol.. if it’s done correctly it really doesn’t matter spinning it or shaking it up and down it’s all gonna end up the same… wow…

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Ok listen carefully and think about what is being said. when an engine runs all of the lifters are pumped up, the engine is then shut off, some of the valves are open , others are closed, if a valve is open with the engine shut off the valve spring pressure is going to cause that lifter to bleed down after sitting there for a while with valve spring pressure on it, the lifters that have a valve closed are not going to bleed down they will basicly be like a solid lifter if you try and depress the plunger in the hyd lifter you can't because there is oil trapped in that lifter this is also known as the lifter being pumped up. so lets say you pull the valve train apart for some reason IE change rockers, repair a head gasket or whatever, the reason does not matter my point is the rockers have come off you have your lifters in the block some are pumped up solid some are blead down from the valve spring pressure hopefully your following. Next the engine gets re assembled, you install pushrods rockers ect. and it's time to adjust the rockers the first step of course is to find zero lash, so let's use your logic and run the rocker down until the push rod wont spin, on the lifters that are pumped up the push rod will be very close to the top of the plunger travel and the push rod will get hard to spin or won't spin at all, you are close at zero lash, then you go the next lifter that is bled down from the valve being open, the valve spring pressure squeezed all the oil out the plunger and lifter body can easily be pushed all the way down to the bottom of its travel by hand, now you start running your rocker down you are going to push the plunger in that lifter 2/3 of the way down it's travel before that push rods gets tight, and that is not zero lash, that is way past zero lash, the adjustment on that lifter is going to be way to tight I have seen guys use the push rod spin method and have a dead cylinder after the engine warms up because the lifter expanded and bottomed out thus holding the valves open, this is also true with new lifters if you install a new set of lifters most often out of the box they will all be bled down IE: plungers are easy to depress by hand, you then proceed to adjust them until the push rod won't spin, well guess what your hydraulic plunger will be 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down it's travel before you start to feel resistance on the pushrod as far as spinning goes, That is NOT!! zero lash and the adjustment will be out of spec, Bottom line spinning the push rod to find zero lash is just plain wrong, your valve adjustment will be way off it hurts performance and shortens the life of the lifter I have heard guys argue about this for years they will say "I've been doing it this way for years" just because you do the wrong thing for a long time that does not mean it's right, It just means you haven't known what you're doing for a long time. Any decant machine shop or builder will tell you this, it's just common sense, apparently, you're lacking in that area.

[@andylarkins1874]

Alot of ppl get lazy not doing it every 90. How I was taught long ago. Auto school did nothing guy who is like my dad has own shop ase certified master tec and learned 10x more from him. I run derbys he built me a motor that ppl thought I had 8 grand in . But only had 2000.Never got hot. 350 Honed to heck had sum 1104 cam that I think he degreed 2 degrees been 10 yrs lol 202 64cc heads Holley 650 dp. Ran ehh cold ran amazing hot. He tuned it while hot. Never had to touch dist. Adjusted carb in field to remove any hesitation. Timing was different then normal 350s I had 4.88 gears so we sacrificed power 4 heat starts. I don't know everything he did but best motor I've ran hands down. Wicked fast never stalled ran 45 min feature at 220 degrees. Radiator cap increasing BP by 3degrees SL one trick. U seem just like him its not about money it's how u build it

[@DarthMayers]

I have a question? I have a 73 Nova and will be putting on a better set of heads. I know I will have to readjust the lifters when I put new heads on. I take it this way of adjusting them will not work it only works on new unused lifters?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

no it will work no problem

[@glennrussell634]

Why do you have two sets of markers one on the timing cover and the bolt on marker

[@codered5431]

Your my engine guy Now. Thanku. Im gonna do bull run to your shop

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Right on

[@rubys35]

Hi thanks for the video, i have the same 327 in my vette, i on hydraulic lifter, i did exactly what you have shown and they are much more quiet but still to much i think at idle !! any advice

[@Myvintageiron7512]

turn the radio up and drive it

[@dankennedy9520]

Base circle of the cam...its called lashing the valves...you can actually do all valves in 2 rotations....this dude dont know shit from apple butter..

[@Myvintageiron7512]

nope what your saying is true for mild/stock flat tappet cams if you have a big roller the method your using will not work you clearly haven't delt with any high performance roller cams otherwise you wouldn't post things like this

[@dawsoncopeland1423]

I ordered a comp cams high energy flat tappet (part number on summit CCA-12-238-2). Its for my 94 chevy 350. The duration at .050 lift is 218/224 and valve lift with factory rocker arm ratio is .462/.469. It said I need to order comp cam lifters to go with but theyre out of stock. Can I just order a set of new stock flat tappet lifters to use with this cam and not change any of the other stock valve train. Ive been getting the mixed bag of you have to rebuild your valetrain and just trow it in it’ll be fine

[@Myvintageiron7512]

you need to upgrade your valve springs the lifters from another brand should be fine

[@terrydaugherty6377]

Sorry but I have done the spin method for 30 years and never had a issue.

[@bobdavis3389]

I know this is an old video , I've aways adjusted my valves this way .What do you think of all the videos that say start anywhere nd take out the lash , rotate 90 degrees and do it again . Rotate and repeat ?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

it works either way I just think the method I did her is way less work