SCAGs, ZT5400s, by-pass valves, filters, hydro fluid, temps, and stuff...

A video on changing the Hydro-Gear fluid in a SCAG Cheetah ZT5400 hydros, talk about by-pass valves, hydro fluid temperatures, hydro filters, dino over synthetic and why.
If you have any questions please ask away in the comment section and I'll do my best to give you an answer.
I attend the GIE Expo in Louisville, KY in October, if there are any questions asked here that cannot be answered, I will do my best to find the answer at the Expo.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I appreciate you taking your time to watch and comment!!

[@Never_give_upforver]

Hands down the best video on a scag cheetah transaxle oil change and purge. Answered every question I was having after fixing seals on my left side. Great video and angles (you can actually see everything he talks about clearly) along with clear audio. Wish more KZbin videos were as informational as this. Great Job and thank you so much. My son and I will be watching more your videos!

[@pmtips4482]

Great to hear!

[@Johnrider1234]

I just bought the flagship. 61 inch 40 hp turf tiger 2

[@pmtips4482]

Sweet machine!

[@MrSteve8511]

I just changed the oil an 5400 hydros at 900 hours....still looked like new.

[@pmtips4482]

That sounds good! Thanks for watching!

[@mustachemanny4039]

always purge the farthest one. i put oil in my cheetah and thought it had enough hyraulic oil in it. i was wrong, i turned the mower on and only one side moved. after listening to this video, it made it clear to purge. i did that and now my mower is working.

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks!

[@pointseeker]

I always service my equipment on time. That being said I swore in the manual it said do not change it before 500 hours. We'll I was wrong it was 100 hours and I now have 200 hours on my 2018. The oil looks and smells perfect still.

[@pmtips4482]

Same here. I think as long as water does not make it's way into the HG unit or the reservoir, all is well for many hours. Thanks for watching!

[@philliphall5198]

Why not add a 12 volt fan ???

[@pmtips4482]

It's not needed. SCAG specs their own fan blade for excellent cooling. I've checked it after running 2 straight hours side by side a John Deere 1025R, in 90 degree temps and the Scag maintains surface trans temp of 160F while the 1025R was at 180F. Thanks for watching!

[@garrettc6231]

Thanks for taking the time to do this video and share! Very helpful before I do my first hydro fluid change on my scag cheetah!

[@pmtips4482]

Hello Garrett and thanks for watching! If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

[@joem8875]

10/10 video. I can tell you run the machine, and you maintain it. You are the kind of person I listen to about how to do this procedure. Although the procedure is simple, there are a few nice little tips and tricks you provided from experience. You do great with the tools and understanding the materials used (steel drain plug going into a cast aluminum case). I bet you have reliable machinery because you really understand whats going on, and thats rare nowadays. Even the folks that wrote the scag manually suggested the ole' weekly oil filter change. haha! What world are they living in? Thanks for the time you spent making this and the knowledge shared.

[@pmtips4482]

Thank you for watching and your comment!

[@LouisianaTractorworks]

Nice SCAG you got Pm! I love mine! Thanks for the great tips. I have to bring mine in this fall for a oil change. Have a good weekend!

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks John! On the hydros, just be careful on the little plugs for the drain and air purge, 40 inch pounds ain't very much, the o-ring does the sealing. Enjoy your weekend!

[@kwaguns]

Thank you for the tips just bought a 2010 with just over 200 hrs and getting ready to service the hydro’s

[@pmtips4482]

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!

[@waylonmccrae3546]

Your Oil should be Hi-Zinc 20w-50 Kawasaki Valvoline Castrol Classic etc. They need Zinc !!

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks!

[@stephenspann1261]

Great video! Your’s is the best video for the 5400 transmissions. I have a Ferris IZ2100 and the manual shows initial transmission oil change at 100 hours and next oil change 400 hours. Seems to be a very broad recommendation hours for oil change

[@pmtips4482]

I like the early change at 100 hours as there are lots of steel, cast parts, and metal injection molded parts in these Hydrogears. I'm changing fluid and filters in these every 2 years and right about 130 to 150 hours. I have not used any synthetic oil yet, only 20W-50 engine oil. So far the 5400s are doing great! Thanks!

[@spmlandscaping538]

Thank you for your time to share your knowledge 💪🏿

[@pmtips4482]

I appreciate you taking time to watch and comment!! Stay safe and have a good one!

[@rgarri6396]

My book say synthetic 15-50 oil in 5400 drive on gravely.

[@pmtips4482]

I noticed Kohler Engines are recommending 15W-50 whereas just a few years back they were recommending 20W-50 engine oil. I spoke with Hydrogear at the Equip Expo last year and now they are also recommending 15W-50 engine oil for their hydros. I haven't made the switch yet but probably will in near future. Thanks for watching!

[@docsspot]

Little late, but hydrogear has the torque spec for the filter caps at 54.23 to 65.53Nm, . Great simple to follow video, Jack

[@guckfoogle3737]

What size socket is that?

[@pmtips4482]

1 1/8 inch fits perfectly. Thanks for watching!

[@fivepointeightnate]

Thanks for the temp info, will be helpful for my custom mower build using the zt5400 drive units. I believe the Cheetah has a 5.8" engine pulley and 5" zt5400 pulley so 4186 RPM and they are rated for 1800 to 3600 RPM. I'm starting my build out at 3200 RPM without fans but using the optional oil cooler outputs for oil radiators.

[@pmtips4482]

Sounds like an interesting project you got going on! Good luck to you and thanks for watching!

[@failranch9542]

Other than the filter and perhaps the size, I wonder what the difference is between these and the “residential grade” Hydrogears. The residential grades are supposedly non serviceable but I’ve successfully rebuilt a bunch of them by simply sanding the grooves out of the pump and motor cylinder blocks and the center section. Wear material gets in there and since there’s no filter it cuts groves into the blocks and center section and it will not hold hydraulic pressure when hot. It’s an easy fix really if not a tad labor intensive.

[@pmtips4482]

Having a filter to change out sure gives peace of mind from a maintenance standpoint. I know guys will split the case on the non serviceable Hydrogears to rebuild them, but as you say, it is labor intensive. I've spoke with a HG engineer at the GIE Expo in Louisville about the difference, and he said the commercial models will use milled (CNC) steel gears versus cast gears in the residential models. It sounds like you have a good handle on repairing them! Thank you for watching and commenting

[@Chickennss]

Sir. The only way to know if the oil is good is to send it off for analysis.

[@pmtips4482]

I agree with you but most oil analysis labs are charging 30 dollar per test. With two ZT5400 pump/motors you're looking at 60 dollars. Currently I change mine every 2 years and use brand name 20W-50 motor oil. That puts about 100 to 120 hours on the hydros. SCAG recommends every year but I can't see it if the hours are down from 400. Thanks for watching and your comment!

[@SouthernStyleLawnCare]

Good stuff. Not sure why they advise change them at 100 hours then every 00. It used to be just every 400 hours. I think they are making us spend money on filters and oil....

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks for watching! I spoke with a Hydro Gear engineer at GIE Louisville, KY in 2018 about the changing of fluid and filter every year with only 100 hours on the hydros, and he said it really should be changed every year. The problem he explained was contamination (water, condensation or a cap leak) with the oil. I go two years as my Scag is never rained on and check the oil visually at the start of season. Them little 5400s sure do a ton of work!

[@2hotscottpro]

I have a log splitter 20 years and no condensation with original fluid.I’ll change hydros fluid and filter at 400 hours on my cheetah.Or every 4 years due to low hours.

[@sh839c]

My ferris zt 5400 has developed a good leak and I still can't find where it's coming from

[@pmtips4482]

@sh839c check the axle seal, I had over a quart wick out all over the garage floor after a single blade of grass worked its way into that seal enough to allow a leak. Removed the blade of grass and all is good now. Thanks for watching!

[@sh839c]

@@pmtips4482 Thanks, I will take a look.

[@josephpuchel6497]

Hey nice video Did you purge air out by running wheels free off ground forwarding and reverse then keep adding 20/50 until you see full mark

[@abrhamhernandez9528]

Great video. Did you had any issues with it by doing the purge that way ??

[@pmtips4482]

No, no issues at all and after 3 filter and fluid changes done this way, I may just be lucky. After this method, as soon as I start the engine, I have full control and seemingly full pressure at the Hydrogear unit. Thanks for watching!

[@1EVILZ06]

Question. I looked at my reservoir when doing my pre-season maintenance. The reservoir was low. The owners manual says the middle of the bottom slot in the sight glass is full. So it took about 3/4 of a quart of 20w50. Now I have a leak on my right trans-axel. It wasn’t leaking before. Is this just a case of over filling? Also. I haven’t ran the mower it’s been sitting it’s only been moved twice since adding the 20W50 and that was from trailer to shop. If it’s just over filling. I’d be relieved. Because once back to normal level it will stop. But if it’s a seal that’s leaking. I’m really concerned. Any ideas?

[@pmtips4482]

Hello, over filling the hydro reservoir will not cause any leaks at the hydro unit as the reservoir is above the hydros. I had one leak on the left 5400 due to a single blade of grass actually worked its way between the outer seal and the axle. That single blade of grass wicked out about 2 quarts over a 7 day period (between mowings). It made a huge mess as can be expected. I carefully pulled that blade of grass out and no more leaking. I still find it hard to believe lol. Now when I blow the debris off when finished, I make sure to hit the area just in front of the tires to keep grass buildup from accumulating. Thanks and stay safe!

[@kennyrowland1364]

my left hand transaxle part # 483797 has a hole in the top of the casing where the high/low selection linkage wore a hole. I have rarely/never changed the selector so I have no idea how it happened. Instead of spending $1500 might I JB weld the hole shut?

[@pmtips4482]

I would sure try it. I'm guessing it's a pretty small hole? I would also try to put a small bend in the linkage to give some clearance to the housing. Try to rough the area up around the hole with some rough sand paper, etc. Good luck to you and let us know how it goes!

[@rodneyjobs5297]

What size socket is required for the oil filter cover?

[@pmtips4482]

Rodney, a six point 1 1/8 inch fits like a glove. (1.125) Thanks for watching!