Cam-Crank Correlation Trouble Code (1998 Chevy 5.0L)

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[@nickoglock]

It's great to have you interacting with us. I have seen one of these come in on a fleet truck as a no start it completely flat spotted the gear.

[@jeremyshanks6937]

Great video. This puts a picture with the "WHY". The gear is worn, and very noticeable. Great work.

[@BigD1395]

Man Paul, I sure as hell wished I could have found this video before I became nothing but a parts changer again.

[@raymondj7588]

Started getting p1345 on 1999 suburban with 5.7 Vortec. Measured CMP Offset was at -5.9. Dropped in new distributer and CMP Offsett went to -0.1 and no more p1345. Original distributer with 190k miles and comparing the gear with the new one it was worn alright. Appreciate the video.

[@joshgray2024]

So my buddy has a 98 2500. This issue happened. And he changed everything but the distributor. I think i may solve this 3 yr issue he has had. Thanks man

[@FinalStopMobileAutoTech]

Greetings Mr danner! i just wanted to express my gratitude for all that you do for this truly awesome profession. I am unable to attend your class in person, however, this channel has made that possible at my home. I am a huge fan and truly cannot thank you enough!

[@jayroncatalan8619]

nice explication paul tanks once again

[@rblodgett4766]

Fallowed through and replaced the Distributor starting out at TDC, had the chain and gears replaced. Ran great for 1k miles then back to the BS. I noticed this time the Harmonic Balancer had a piece of rubber missing so I replaced it. And 5k miles later still running like a 454 should.

[@kevbainbain]

Recently sorted a similar problem with a Jeep Wrangler. Same component but slightly different failure. At 2000 RPM and above cam signal was totally dropping out on pico. On examination the upper bearing in the distributor shaft was worn and the centrifugal force was causing the trigger shield to bump the hall sensor. New shaft sorted this. I was using MAXIDAS ds708 for live data which gave a useful PID for cam and crank sensor counts, it also showed the loss of sensor counts at 2000RPM.

[@WendelltheSongwriter]

You know that's all well and good, but we replaced the distributor, which will be the second distributor in three years, and I still get a code period changed out the crankshaft sensor, still got a code, changed out the new distributor still got a code. I should point out that before I brought this to the mechanic the truck was running absolutely perfectly, and all I had was a 1345 code. Since I was getting ready to take a long trip, I wanted him to look at that code, and he changed out the crank sensor, which made the truck run worse with misfiring and hesitation particularly at highway speeds. So he replaced the distributor and still got codes. At the moment, I'm waiting him for to put the old distributor back in and see if we can get it running like it was before. Other than that, I suppose it could be a bad timing chain. This is a 99 suburban base model 5.7 with 168,000 original miles. we are both at a loss as to what could be causing these codes even though the truck runs well, or at least did before he started messing with it. Any advice?

[@michaelstjohn6086]

Figure it out?

[@johnny0454]

The ignition timing correlation needs to be adjusted by using a scan tool and rotating the distributor housing (because the camshaft sensor is in the distributor) to set the cam position sensor/crank position sensor correlation to 0°. Similar to setting the timing on an older carburated engine, but in this case, you must have an actual scan tool (not just a code reader) instead of a timing light.

[@jesusmalagon4336]

thanks danner

[@surfertube44]

My gear broke off in the engine and proceeded to coast to the side of the road, just took a chance that it was the distributor and pulled it out very slowly only to discover it was missing the gear, proceeded to call a friend and have him purchase a new distributor and a flex magnet used to fish out the washer then the gear it self, mind you this was done on the side of the road, then installed the new distributor clamped it down and turned the key" no start" unclamped it and pulled it up and did a180 degree turn dropped it back down and clamped it up, started in 2 seconds and drove off purring like a kitten and never had a check engine light on, Yes Vortech 350.

[@robbiebooth2980]

I have drilled the hole bigger on the distributor keeper which gives you a few degrees to adjust

[@dylwes]

Had the same problem with a 5.7 and just changed the gear on distributor and worked

[@jesserousseau2481]

You can change just the gear? Or entire distributor

[@johnny0454]

You can change just the gear very easily, just have to drive out the roll pin with a punch or something similar.

[@josecarbajal5776]

Son muy buenos los videos

[@tireroastersgarage]

Thank you

[@austinclements4422]

It's a Melonized gear so that it does not eat up cam. So it's meant to wear.

[@keys2.0]

Can the p1345 code on my 99 Yukon cause it to stall out at idle, can barely give it gas if at all. Truck starts easy runs about 5 secs then dies out.

[@jhanlon1903]

if you replace the dis. with an aftermarket aluminum shaft dis. and you have the original gm dis. and the gear is in perfect condition, you could swap out the gear.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Maybe an extreme scenario, but could you also be off by a tooth where the distributor gear meshes with the cam gear to set the P1345 code? It looks like there are 14 teeth on the distributor gear, so off by one tooth would be around 25deg on the distributor shaft.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Looking like that may be a plausible in this scenario

[@TradeDiagnostics]

If the disy is out a tooth and going either way is to retarded or to advanced and say half a tooth would fix it you could always remove the disy drive gear and turn it 180 degrees and refit roll pin you will have half the tooth that you need.

[@timquigg6835]

Second time iv heard of the 13 tooth trick to get a half of tooth bye rotating gear 180 on distributer gear i would like to hear more about this trick and if it works there are very few that talk about this actually you are the second person iv read about knowing this it would make sence being a 13 tooth gear and rotating it 50% putting roll pin back in to get that half tooth so mant of us are looking for. please tell me why this will not work or why u think it would work or if its been done and it did work.

[@johnny0454]

@@timquigg6835 this would only be necessary if the distributor housing doesn't have the clearance to rotate far enough to accomplish the correct timing, otherwise you simply rotate the distributor housing.

[@SteveRobReviews]

Good stuff Paul. I do like the question and answer idea, we all learn, hope to see more.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

For sure and it is easier than finding a useful post in history. Especially here. Plus I want to help as much as I can on this channel. And while this is still small I most certainly can. Thanks Steve

[@martingarza3383]

On a 98' K3500 5.7cid I will dropping a crate engine soon. My question is do I have to disconnect a wire and set engine up let's say 6° advance (just threw that number in) than connect a wire back in and run over 45 mph for a few miles as I have done on old chevys before? I have zero problems dropping and clocking my distributor. I did same years back dropped a 6L crate engine on a 2003' K2500 but don't recall how what procedure I did on it been so long.

[@johnny0454]

No, on these vortecs the ignition timing is controlled by the computer. The distributor housing must be in an exact location where the cam sensor signal and crank position sensor signal are exactly correlated to each other at 0° You need a scan tool to see that data.

[@joep9219]

2003 Dodge neon 2.0 I have both a cam and crank sensor code. Replaced Both sensors but there is no difference. Timing belt has been done. So what it does is it dies when in drive and starting to drive. In reverse I can drive it and it won’t die. I can rev the engine at idle and it’s fine it also idels fine

[@robertkeys268]

I have a 97 GMC Sierra 1500 5.0 engine dead complete tune-up cap plugs rotor and truck still runs rough runs fine in park but when you put it in Drive it hesitates and surges but the truck's not throwing out any codes but an oxygen sensor

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

check your fuel pressure

[@cameroncollins]

My crankshaft sensor wire got cut and my truck runs with out it

[@tylerprather521]

Someone please help me I’ve spent over 600 since Thursday still haven’t found issue. 97 Tahoe 5.7 vortec once warms up gets out of second gear can’t stay at a steady speed without it sounds like trynna stall but never ever does just have to hit gas harder to get it to stop then goes right back to doing it bs when u try to go a steady speed. Only does it when warmed up and after 2nd gear. Brand new distributor and crank but still throwing out that code. That code is the only code my truck throws but that issue I’m just so loss I need help someone please help

[@thatguy-qr1vd]

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado and I sent it to the shop to get a new distributor put in and when I got it back it was running fine but not even a week later I got a crankshaft sense reading and it's almost an rpm cut off bc in 3400 rpm the gauge will go crazy and it is almost like it's not letting my truck shift into gears

[@thatguy-qr1vd]

Got anything that could help? Bc I don't know know besides a bad sensor but idk if that would cause this problem

[@jhanlon1903]

it could be ignition switch,

[@willryder2779]

The drive gear on my distributor was the same way! Is it possible the gear on the camshaft is the same way?! My timing is stuck at 27° BTDC!

[@johnny0454]

No, the distributor gear is softer than the cam gear. Cam gear should be fine.

[@frickschunnoutdoors304]

i have an 02 s10 4.3. has the correlation code. also has lean bank 1 and 2. i replaced the distributor 6 months ago. could it have gone bad that quick again?

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Post this to my forum. It is free to join and we have an awesome community that is friendly and willing to help. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html Hope to see you there!

[@johnnyjohnny2873]

Hi mi name is juan .. I have the same problem whit a 98 GMC yukon 5.7 195.000 miles. has the cam to crank correlation code the problem is that it has no power wen i try to take off ones is going is ok, wen i get to stop light it does it again ... I replaced the timing chain, distriburor , cam and crank sensor , spark plugs , the fuel pump and still the having the same problem ,,,, what other test. I can do to try to fix this problem... ? thank's for this videos they help me alot whit my every day work ,,, !

[@hoovagangswcqpent8621]

Injectors

[@cgunugc]

Did you ever get this fixed?

[@davidlittle611]

I installed a new cheap distributor on my 96 5.7L now I have a -23 degree timing advance for #1 cylinder. When I rotate it a tooth it points far away from the #1 cylinder pin on the cap.

[@joejoeevans]

i had the same thing and found the distributor had a #6 on it when it should be an 8. I have a 6cyl distributor that came with an 8cyl cap.

[@davidlittle611]

@@joejoeevans Wow. I wouldn’t have guessed. I put the old cap on the new distributor and now it runs great, but it’s still reading -23 degrees timing advance on my BlueDriver.

[@paulvigil6757]

Ha someone adjusted my 4.3 distributer

[@thatblue9110]

I had a cam crank correlation and I've replaced the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor plus a timing chain and it won't run still sounds like it's 180 out and I've reset the distributor timing and I've put it at top dead center from the harmonic balancer. Still won't run I don't know what it is I'm thinking it's a distributor

[@thatblue9110]

And it's a 350 5.7l in a 1999 chevy suburban at 269K miles

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

It sounds like it is 180 out? Did it sound like that before you did anything? Why did you replace those parts?

[@MiamiWebDesign]

My 99 Tahoe’s distributor rotor moves up and down about 1/4”. Is this normal or is it worn and needs to be replaced?

[@johnny0454]

That's a little excessive. You can buy a shim kit for these to adjust the shaft end play. If memory serves me correctly, I believe the spec is less than .050" but I'm not positive, you'll have to do the research to make sure, but there are other videos explaining distributor shaft end play on small block chevys.

[@johnny0454]

Also, I know you don't want them too tight, need to leave room for thermal expansion.

[@nicholasmcelhose9195]

I have seen way too many of those distrour worn gears on those vortecs

[@paulvigil6757]

Could it be i didnt set timing right

[@Elites-asthetic]

I’m getting the codes for camshaft and crank correlation bank 1 Camshaft changed still the same codes Van won’t start after a run But unplug the plug for camshaft it will start Scratching my head

[@mph5896]

Not sure of the history of that truck but, if the intake gasket was done the distributor may have been improperly reinstalled.

[@allanbrogdon7453]

I don't get it how does the distributor drive gear affect the correlation between cam and crank?Ir should only affect distributor timing.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

The cam sensor is in the distributor on this model

[@johnny0454]

The distributor is driven by the camshaft, so the position of the distributor is directly correlated to the position of the camshaft. The computer relies on a cam position sensor inside the distributor to tell it where the camshaft is (by inferring the information from the position of the distributor) in relation to the information it receives from the crankshaft position sensor.

[@elbuchepelon]

I have jepp 2012 3.6 engine, whit misfiring at id le, no condes, and the data .....cam/ckp synch-----FALSE. Bad gas cons. How a can check the cam and ckp sync. T.K . Senor danner

[@ScannerDanner]

If you want a cam crank waveform for that Jeep, search for it on iATN. Sorry, that is the best I can do.

[@robertkeys268]

the teeth on it look like they're bent also