Scarpa Boostic Vs Booster: Which Is The Sport Climbing Master?

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Scarpa Boostic Vs Booster: Which Is The Sport Climbing Master? | Climbing Daily Ep.1816

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Күн бұрын

The Boostic is Scarpa's latest sport climbing and multi-pitch shoe. Today we compare it to the Booster...usually considered to be a bouldering specialist. Is there a crossover between the shoes, and which should you pick?
Get the Scarpa Boostic: bit.ly/3wSpHap and the Booster: bit.ly/3gbv8v1
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Пікірлер: 57

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

Robbie And Nathan have to be shaking their heads at this repeated effort to classify shoes as for either Sport or Boulder. The Boostic is for standing on minuscule but distinct edges with precision, think off vert welded tuff with xenoliths and awkward pockets or shallow vesicles especially, whereas the Booster is for standing on small divots and irregular surfaces with precision, think windswept sandstone and granite along ribs and huecos. The Boostics come out with me alongside my Chimeras for about everything.

@mateotoro2395 3 жыл бұрын

It's interesting to see how mat chose worse but lower clipping positions with the soft shoe, probably because they gave him less confidence in his feet

@TheMacroGravity 3 жыл бұрын

It's all about terrain, not sport vs bouldering. Steeper usually means softer and more downturn, more vert usually means stiffer and moderate camber. The RRG in Kentucky is a sport mecca, but you want a soft shoe because of how steep it is. Squamish has some edge-y vert-ish boulders that suit stiff shoes. Best to have a quiver.

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

Being more specific for The Red, standing on pockets with the steepness of the madness cave, for instance, a soft rubber with flexible split sole but stiff and precise midsole as with the Mago or Testarossa or VSR or Solution is more desired than say a Drago or Theory.

@TheMacroGravity 3 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober Sorry I made a sweeping generalization of areas with 1000's of routes. You're right, but what shoe to take to the madness cave wasn't really the point I was making with my imperfect comparison.

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMacroGravity wasn’t meant as a correction simply adding in more specificity to softness, and used the madness for context, because much of The Red is overhanging pockets but the extremes are where the advantages of shoes are really shown.

@J_punkt_O_punkt 3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMacroGravity I'd say in general that a shoe with a soft rubber; but a stiff(ish) midsole is best for sandstone sportclimbing. Except when you get into the very steep stuff. 100% agree with the point about the quiver of shoes. I even use the same model with different sizing sometimes.

@nicjcorn 3 жыл бұрын

I'm a big dude, but actually really like soft shoes for sport climbing. The Boosters are actually my "Stiff shoe" for sport climbing right now, next to my Solutions.

@Goofygreyhoundgoober 3 жыл бұрын

My opinion of “sport climbing shoes/bouldering shoes” is that you should piick the shoe that works for the boulder/route. There is so much variation in climbing that’s it seems closed minded to say “this is a sport climbing shoe” etc.

@atapuma5756 2 жыл бұрын

I think you made the actual point when you said you're heavier. It's all about weight. The Booster, as many others shoes, are unisex model so it's really obsolete to declare whether they're soft or stiff. They're probably too soft for a climber above 70 kg while they could be perfectly fine for a climber below 60 kg.

@tomriddle2257 25 күн бұрын

The thing is that not only height but also foot size makes a shoe feel softer. Imagine you want to bend a stick; if the same stick was longer, you could more easily bend it.

@alpinekiwi 3 жыл бұрын

Such an great comparison. Those look very similar to my Scarpa Instincts. I have both the Instinct VS and the VSR. The softer 'Grip" VSR are sized down (uncomfortably) for indoor climbing or routes that matter, while my VS has the 'Edge' rubber and are sized the same as my street shoe. I use them for all outdoor climbing including multi pitch. They are both uncomfortable jammed into small pockets and camming into cracks, but I guess all shoes are. Today, I actually sent my Instinct VSs in for resoling and I requested them to swap the Edge sole out for the softer Grip rubber. I asked for the thicker 5mm Grip rubber to see if they will balance between the Edge and the Grip. I can't wait to see how they perform when I get them back. Will they be too similar to my VSRs? Will they be my new weapon of choice for everything? Way too exciting. I am literally beside myself.

@jeffreeatizado7074 3 жыл бұрын

Are these models meant to replace the VS/VSR models? Where do they sit in comparison?

@FunFactOfTheDay 3 жыл бұрын

Been wearing the Boostics for a month now - I'm 220lbs, they're sized very tight at a 44, and I bought them to replace my Muria VS's. I have to say, they are fantastic - the Muria's are definitely stiffer, but the fancy tension systems in the Boostics actually make it EASIER to stand on tiny holds, even with the shoes feeling a bit thinner and way more sensitive. You can actually feel what you're standing on! Also, if you have high arches and a thin heel with a flat Achilles, these shoes will fit much better than most. They dont have that "bulb" style heel cup that most LaSportivas seem to have. Honestly couldn't recommend a shoe more - for heavier guys there arent many options and these are fantastic.

@FunFactOfTheDay 3 жыл бұрын

I should also add that like 90% of my climbing is done on vertical to slight slab with very small holds.

@leonakadir3833 3 жыл бұрын

nah matt, second go up looked much harder for you!

@JanSchrewe 3 жыл бұрын

I like soft shoes no matter if I'm sport climbing or bouldering and I feel insecure with most edging type shoes. Seems to me a much better distinction: Is a shoe better at smearing type of footwork (think no edge) or edging type footwork.

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

Most of the insecurity likely has to do with a reduced sensitivity and feedback from many stiffer shoes, but the Boostic will amaze you on that. As well, simply qualifying shoes as smearing or edging or even stiff or soft is the same problem as boulder or sport, because varying elements such as shape or thickness or position or material of the midsole and length or thickness or rubber out of the outsole and similar can alter if the shoe is better for overhanging power smears or delicate off vert walking across divots, for instance.

@JanSchrewe 3 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober Yeah, I don't really stand on edges I think. I do with crampons, but most climbing shoes I tried aren't very stiff if a 90 Kg person with shoe size 45 stands on a tiny edge. Sensitivity does have something to do with it I think but it doesn't explain alle of it. I think that's what I meant with smearing type of footwork: In most cases it's easier for me not to look for tiny edges and really edge but to treat them as smears with increased friction if that make sense. My girlfriend with under 60 Kg wears stiff shoes and tends to look for (tiny) edges while climbing and really puts the edge of the shoe on it. Doesn't work for me. Same for XSEdge, that just feels slippery and I try to resole shoes with it as fast as possible with something softer.

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

@@JanSchrewe fully with treating all footholds the same in terms of the fundamentals, smear across an edge and edge into a smear, does not matter if on a comp volume or overhanging nubbin. However, I will note there are routes out there where there simply are not other options and trying to avoid the essential micro ripple edge by smearing with a soft shoe is implausible or requires you to drastically out fitness a route which becomes harder on the top end. Have to ask what you consider a soft shoe for yourself and a stiff shoe for her.

@JanSchrewe 3 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober I feel I have the option to either have a very very painful experience in shoes that are way too small or accept that size and weight matters in climbing and there are some holds I can't hold and some footholds I can't stand on. I prefer Futura (44) or Genius (44.5) for outdoor climbing (the whole no edge stuff seems to actually work for me, I was surprised) and very very old Katana Laces (44) resoled with XS Grip 2 for indoor (there doesn't appear to be any more support however, just less sensitivity which for me matters less indoor). I have also tried a lot of other shoes over time but those are what works best for me. She wears Katana Laces (37) and doesn't like smears ;)

@wayneoxborough6044 3 жыл бұрын

Interesting test. What size is Theresa - a 'soft' 37 is a lot stiffer than the same shoe in 42,43

@tomriddle2257 25 күн бұрын

Yes exactly! Both body weight and shoe size makes a shoe feel softer. It squares the effect.

@tomriddle2257 25 күн бұрын

I would like the same test for indoor bouldering. Is the Booster strictly better? Maybe the Boostic is good enough for overhangs but much better on slabs with tiny footholds.

@Gwynypig 3 жыл бұрын

Shoes are not meant for a specific type of climbing. They are designed for the type of footholds that you will be climbing on.

@J_punkt_O_punkt 3 жыл бұрын

I agree to a extend and i have used my stiffest shoes in bouldering. However but vertical boulders with very small edges for footholds are a small percentage of all boulders in most areas, while vertical walls with small edges for footholds are very common in sportclimbing.

@Gwynypig 3 жыл бұрын

@@J_punkt_O_punkt still, it depends on the rock and not the length of the climb.

@J_punkt_O_punkt 3 жыл бұрын

@@Gwynypig Sure there are some sport climbs where a soft shoe is just the better choice. But it's not very often the case. Which popular boulering areas have more or less vertical climbing on small edges? Second argument: Think of a more or less vertical climb which has mainly 3-5mm edges as footholds. If it's just four meters, a softer shoe with more feeling where you can smedge might be a great choice. Think Furia Air, Drago, or maybe (i don't own it yet) the Booster. If this is a sport climb with 30 Meters, i would absolutely use harder shoes. Instinct LS, my seriously undersized old Vapour V, maaaybe the Instinct VS; if there's a crucial toe- or a heelhook. Others might use a Katana Lace or a Anasazi Bianco. If i would use a softer shoe for this kind of climb, my toes would just be pumped after 10 meters of standing on those small edges.

@LastCookieToCrumble 3 жыл бұрын

Bouldering vs sport... The footholds on the climb matter more than the number of moves.

@antoinehalik 3 жыл бұрын

it is all question of weight. When I was younger (yeap - and lighter 🤭🤭) I used only soft shoes. Right now I struggle to loose few kilos, but for the moment I prefer stiffer shoes like katana or otaki for most of the climbs, and solution for step, overhanging rock. If I'd be 65kg once again - I'd like to try softer shoes like booster with pleasure 🤭🤭 Wish me good luck with my diet 😂😂

@CaldDesheft 3 жыл бұрын

How about a comparison between the boostic and the katana lace from la sportiva? Seems like direct competitors instead of doing the Boulder vs Sport shoe comparison

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

Instinct lace and Vapor lace are closer to the Katana lace than the Boostic which may be compared more to the Miura, though in my opinion the Boostic is a massive improvement over any high end edging shoe.

@J_punkt_O_punkt 3 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober Could you give more context to Boostic VS Instinct Lace?

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

@@J_punkt_O_punkt depends what you want for context, but basically the biggest difference is in the shaping of the midsole and a reduction in layers to provide sensitivity, plus the Boostic is far more aggressive than the Instinct Lace. Boostic is a full pad of 3.5 XS Edge whereas the mens is a half pad of 4 XS Edge while the womens uses 4 XS Grip2, and the heel is the same PAF system for the Boostic and womens Instinct Lace. To me, the Instinct line is clunkier but comfortable and after several sessions break in well for someone who wants a technical shoe but not prepared for the more aggressive fits. Think the Boostics are my favorite shoe out of the box, if I was on a trip needing to replace shoes that day for unknown rock type, I would get em, and they are true all arounders being there is nothing they cannot do well and some things they are phenomenal at.

@J_punkt_O_punkt 3 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober Thanks a lot for the elaboration. Full and Half pad is Full or Half/Split sole? Which shoe would you use for a vertical limestone climb around your limit?

@zacharylaschober 3 жыл бұрын

@@J_punkt_O_punkt third, half, and full pad refers to the length of the pad of climbing rubber from the toe. Shoes with split soles, aka third and half pad, are more flexible through the arch, and tend to be overall softer. Personally, I think the Boostics are my choice for anything under to off vert. The Instinct Line is less downcambered which has a slight benefit for vertical lines, but also are less supportive and less precise, thus is an easy choice for me especially being accustomed to climbing in highly aggressive shoes.

@dansmall13 3 жыл бұрын

Is there a reason why scarpa focus so much on narrow shoes? Their only wide performance shoes seem to be the VS/VSR

@Nannarii 3 жыл бұрын

The Furia Air works very well for me with wider feet, but it's also very indoor-oriented.

@philipppuchner1115 3 жыл бұрын

I think t Heinz Mariacher changed the lasts when he came from La Sportiva to Scarpa. That's why the newer models are narrower and have much less volume than before. Much closer to many Sportiva climbing shoes.

@penemankakaroto4286 3 жыл бұрын

9 uk street shoes at 8.5 uk climbing shoes? really? i used 2 1/2 numbers less than my street shoes....

@philipppuchner1115 3 жыл бұрын

WHAT climbing shoe? Sportivas in General? definately Yes. Scarpas? Maybe, depends. Boostics? definately NO! On the old Boostics, half a size down in enough. They are a whole size smaller than every other Scarpa climbing shoe. Like the 42 Instinct VS is the same size like a 43 Boostic. It is so stiff and the Lorica will eat your toes if you are a bit longer in them. In the video of the NEW Boostic. nathan said, that you maybe go down a half a size from the old Boostic. Which means: In total, you go down maybe 1 EU size from your REAL feet size (meassure them! street shoes are also different in size and many wear them very large) as a good starting point. 21min video - Spotlight: Scarpa - Boostic kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaumaqSpp7x_nas