SCARY!!! How to Safely Route Large Profiles on Small Wooden Circles

Continuing on the build of the hurricane candle bases, today I'm routing the edge profile with a rather large bit, considering the size of these discs. There's also a little lesson about router slippage!
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Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
🛒 This is the router bit I used on the disc, but note, there's an Econo version below: amzn.to/37oZgh6
🛒 If I had to do it over again I think I would have purchased this bit for 1/4 the price. Is it as good? I'll order one and we'll find out: amzn.to/3CizxVM
To answer questions about the tapes I used, see this:
🟢 SpecTape is my favorite temporary double-sided tape: amzn.to/3uHEtPw
🟢 Since I mentioned temporary bonds, if you are curious what I use for stronger bonds with double-sided tape, SpeedTape from FastCap is my favorite: amzn.to/3a4bLjS
🟢 Finally, for truly permanent bonds with double-sided tape, there's no beating 3M's VHB tape. The version I reach for most is thin and transparent and is permanent even when used outdoors. It's the same that the automotive industry uses to attach the plastic, rubber, and chrome trim onto cars! amzn.to/3dcE1Ty Here's a link to Jimmy DiResta, who does a great job showing how he uses VHB tape: • Jimmy DiResta's Tips a...
🟢 My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: amzn.to/3sm3NcJ
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#CandleBase #TableProfile #LargeRouterBit

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

I have used the tempered fiber board for another purpose… when making a deep cut, I put down an 1/8” sheet on the table. After making my first cut… I pull off the board and make a finish pass. That does two things… it gives a nice finish cut with less pressure. The wood can move quicker so it doesn’t burn or chatter as bad. On figured wood it reduces tear out just like using successive passes with height adjustment do. Second, it reduces my setup errors when parts produced a few days later need the exact same profile. Scott, this was an excellent demonstration. Enjoy your vacation!

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks Dave. Yes, I do the same thing and I might have done it here if I hadn't been messing around with the motor so much before I took it out and did that maintenance on it. Anyway, I made a shallow pass then adjusted it up, but using a shim to lift it up for the first roughing pass is a smart move. Scott

[@markb8954]

Following this project along. I was wondering if we have seen what the finished product is going to look like? Wooden base with a hurricane lamp with a candle inside? A top? A routed out section in the base to hold the candle? Keep the updates coming. I think you might actually be traveling this week..

[@MyGrowthRings]

Hey Mark. Yes, we are on the road but have a vid already uploaded for next weekend. We’ll shoot a final video in Texas where they will be assembled and finished. Scott

[@jamesbrunk9817]

Nice tips. Thanks.

[@MyGrowthRings]

My pleasure, James. Scott

[@davesatosky5840]

about bit cleaning... i have yet to find anything comparable to simple green. its basically black magic as far as im concerned lol.

[@woodshopnerdery]

Plus one for Simple Green. Also, it's a general purpose cleaner for various garage messes.

[@chadnevels246]

In the machine shop, Simple Green is our "go to" cleaner on our equipment and tools. We buy it by the 5 gallon container.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Very cool! I don't recall ever using it for tooling, but I always have it around so I'll give it a go. Scott

[@curttundra]

Yes Simple Green (original) is fantastic for almost any cleaning job from skid marks on young grandkids shorts to a 100+ year old rusty anvil ,I learned the skid mark bit while attending gunsmith school, we used Simple Green to clean 95 percent of our gun clean process. Just need to know how to dilute it for the particular job! Also after I clean my router bits I hit them with a quick burst of silicone spray.

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@curttundra Great tip, Curt!

[@woodshopnerdery]

Nice to see the project progressing! In a practical sense, no project can be entirely completed on a Shopsmith, "you got to know when the hold 'em, know when fold 'em" as the song says. So, good to see a project advance through it's natural evolution. Are you cutting the entire profile in one pass or multiple passes? For the less experienced, and more skittish, among us would there be any harm in using the same technique but with a starting pin? Also, thanks for the mention!

[@chadnevels246]

I'm sorry Thomas, but I must disagree with the statement of "no project can be entirely completed on a Shopsmith", but I will interject with "most projects can't". For example, a simple bowl turned on the lathe can be completed entirely on the Shopsmith, especially sanding it, and even finish applied.

[@woodshopnerdery]

@@chadnevels246 Good points. I should have said "most."

[@ellisreeves8936]

I would say no project can be completed entirely on any piece of shop equipment not just ShopSmith, except as Chad says the lathe, but the SS comes close

[@MyGrowthRings]

I just scrolled back to give you a point in the timeline where I show that I was taking these in two passes, but I must have edited it out. Yes, I did an initial roughing pass followed by a finial pass or two. Taking this deep of a cut in a hardwood in a single pass is a foolish man's game! Scott

[@MyGrowthRings]

Ever notice how the comment section of a KZbin video is a lot like a high school grammar lesson? #WordsAreHard

[@daveschmitt6369]

As always a great video with great comments. Thanks for your work.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks, Dave.

[@toddharshbarger8616]

YES ROUTER CONTENT!

[@garyblack8717]

Man you make it look easy!

[@MyGrowthRings]

Well, it isn't hard but it can be intimidating. Just take it slowly and there's no shame in taking multiple shallow cuts.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video Scott. I always enjoy learning something from you 👍😊

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks, Mark.

[@berryconway4296]

Enjoy your videos and following along with this build. A couple of comments. Jeez I couldn't believe you weren't wearing some type of dust mask. Routing seems to me the dirtiest job in the shop. But in all the years I've done woodworking it never occurred to me build a shroud around the bottom of the table to contain the dust. I'm sure I'll try it soon. (I mount my router table to an old Black & Decker WorkMate. When not in use I can hang the table and/or WorkMate on the wall and get the floor space back) I would like to see how your table was mounted. Thanks for the video.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks to COVID I am so over masks! Seriously, if I feel I need the, I’ll wear them.

[@glendavis4930]

What is that double sided tape you use called. I'm making some patterns for repetitive pieces and the tape at the big box store is adhesive on foam backing. It's thick and I don't think it would work very well for my purpose. I know you had links before, but I don't see one above. Interesting video on routing not using a fence. Good information.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Glen, I’ve just posted some details on the three tapes I like to use in the video description. The tape I used here wasn’t my first choice for this type of application and normally I would reach for SpecTape 🟢 SpecTape is my favorite temporary double-sided tape: amzn.to/3uHEtPw Scott

[@ronalddenault1246]

Hi Scott, It would be great if you can do the same process on the Shopsmith. Thanks in advance

[@MyGrowthRings]

Hey Ronald. They could be turned on the lathe, but other than that I wouldn’t use this size of router but on a Shopsmith, if that’s what you mean. Scott

[@constantgardener4517]

Totally agree, easier and safer to cut a section at a time with better control rather than playing around with extra hand movement around a spinning finger biter.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks for the validation. Scott

[@grahamw2955]

Presumably if this is quite tricky with a table router, it’s next to impossible with a hand held one?

[@MyGrowthRings]

Correct. You have no business trying to route with this size of cutter with a hand held router.

[@benwhite3227]

Why not cut quick circles on the bandsaw (like you did), then turn that on the lathe? Wouldn’t that avoid the sanding to perfect circle and routing? I see the router is much faster!

[@MyGrowthRings]

Yes, that’s another option and there’s no reason not to consider that option, if turning is your thing. Because this was white oak I sis that want to have to mess around with the likelihood of end grain tear out, that would likely be an issue had I turned them. Also, I can route a circle in less time than it takes to mount one on a faceplate. Scott

[@benwhite3227]

@@MyGrowthRings Oh, I see. The router is faster AND gives better results. What about using the Shopsmith as a router or shaper?

[@GregulatorOG]

My push blocks didn't have the grip on them. Any advice on how to fix them it doesn't feel safe with out it.

[@MyGrowthRings]

There is a peel and stick replacement product available from Woodcraft and I’ll look to see if I can find some on Amazon for you. Scott

[@GregulatorOG]

@@MyGrowthRings I appreciate your time.

[@theshopshack3696]

Scott, I recently setup my Mark V for overhead routing…. Dust collection is far from optimal. Is there an option available for overhead collection? Have you done anything for this? I will be exploring options in the coming days, but I would have expected the routing shield to be collector enabled (it is far from it). Thoughts?

[@MyGrowthRings]

I haven't recorded anything on this because I never use my Mark V for routing. If you use it with the shaper fence there is an accommodation for dust collection through a hole in the table, but if you are routing dados or dovetail slots there isn't a great way to collect the dust. I've clamped a vac or dust collector hose next to the bit, but that still falls quite short. Scott

[@Jim-fr3gr]

Have you ever used a starter pin next to router bit.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Yes, I have. On some shapes, it can be handy, but with circles, I don't see the need. On something like a Shaker candle stand where only the top edges of the leg get routed a starting pin makes a lot of sense. Scot

[@curttundra]

So the router bit was moving up and down in the jaws of tge router and not the router body moving? If so this seems very strange that if the bit became loose wouldn't it eventually come dislodged from the router? I don't have any experience with a table mounted router, is this a normal occurrence?

[@MyGrowthRings]

No, the router body was slipping within the base clamp. This is only "normal" if the clamp isn't tightened properly, which is what was happening due to the motor and base galling. Scott

[@woodshopnerdery]

I thought the same thing, then I realized the video of the router slipping down was running in a loop over and over. That made it look like it was moving up and down.

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@woodshopnerdery Yes, exactly. I guess I didn’t make that clear.

[@elywalton1236]

Job for Mark VII with under-table shaping at 10k RPM? Also, starting pin? Just asking' TIA

[@MyGrowthRings]

Still not fact enough and no, I only use a starting pin when shaping the edge of a piece that is curved but not round. Scott