Warp in weaving are the treads going in the length direction. And Weft is the tread going "sideways/across" or under & over the warp ✌🏻.
@kentdirckx30123 жыл бұрын
The wax for the points is is described as "cordeweneris coode" or cordwainer's coad which is a mix of beeswax and pine resin that is used to make shoes. That stuff is incredibly grippy.
@stormiewutzke41903 жыл бұрын
It sounds very much like advice for older back country dressing before modern materials. We still wear sock liners from nylon but I think they used to be silk to keep from getting blisters since it doesn't hold wetness close to the skin and glides over the skin instead of grabbing. Cotton is one if the best wicking materials and ideally you use it in a middle layer so it pulls sweat off the skin and then move it to the outer layers. I think this sort of dressing would make sense to an outdoorsman in the early 20th century.
@danielloewenbein82253 жыл бұрын
With regards to fustian, the book "the fabric of civilization: how textiles made the world" by Virginia Postrel explains that fustian was used because at this point in history (in fact up to the industrial revolution) English spinners couldn't cheaply produce strong enough cotton to use as the warp thread. In traditional weaving techniques the warp threads are held taut by weights so they had to be stronger.
@ecchioni3 жыл бұрын
English spinners couldn't cheaply produce cotton up to industrial revolution because COTTON DOESN'T GROW IN ENGLAND!
@NevisYsbryd3 жыл бұрын
@@ecchioni Textile importation was commonplace by the Middle Ages. Britain was the major wool producer for Europe, much of it grown in England and Scotland and then processed in German territories.
@discerningscoundrel30552 жыл бұрын
One factor being the difference in the staple length between cotton, especially older varieties, and linen. The long linen fibres are much better suited for making the long warp threads than short-staple cottons.
@philw80493 жыл бұрын
Just a note on the waxing of the points, and this is a bit of a guess here but I am basing this off my experience with leatherwork. The type of wax matters, if you want something to be “stickier” ie as they said on the points they want the wax to help hold the knots together, use beeswax. Paraffin wax has just the opposite effect and can actually be used as a bit of a lubricant so you would not want to use that for this particular application. I use waxed thread quite a bit hand stitching leather and use paraffin wax to help the thread get through the layers of leather. I would never use beeswax for that because it would just make the thread want to “stick” to the leather even more while trying to stitch it.
@BlaBla-pf8mf3 жыл бұрын
Paraffin wax was first created in 1830, so it couldn't be used in medieval times.
@bwcmakro3 жыл бұрын
@@BlaBla-pf8mf I think the point wasn't about a specific type, but rather the idea of using different types of wax in general.
@AnotherDuck3 жыл бұрын
I've used wax for laces at one point. For ice skates. Those you want a bit more robust than normal shoelaces.
@Devin_Stromgren3 жыл бұрын
I'm pretty sure that when you buy waxed linen thread for leatherworking, that is in fact bee's wax. The point of the wax isn't to lubricate the thread, but rather to protect the thread from the abrasiveness of the leather.
@zsoltbocsi7546 Жыл бұрын
@@AnotherDuck yeah i wanted to mention this, without the wax the laces they constantly untie themselves. I tried that that was terrible
@andyedwards92223 жыл бұрын
My leg harness eats my knees unless I wrap my knee, I thin leather stitched to a linen wrap. The knee armour has sliding plates, with my harness the plates almost meet and my skin gets pinched if I don't wear thin extra layer. All armour is different and there is always a learning curve to make it work better.
@sanguma3 жыл бұрын
"cut full of holes" for me, doesent sound like "have attachment points", more like what Matt says, extra ventilation. Great video on details of armour
@randalthor7413 жыл бұрын
It really could refer to either (or both), because the attachment points are just laces that go through holes cut in the doublet.
@scholagladiatoria3 жыл бұрын
From a historian point of view, my hunch is that this must be something unusual, to be worth mentioning. Every arming doublet has a load of holes for points, so I suspect that the mentioned holes are for something else. So my money is still on the ventilation answer.
@duchessskye40723 жыл бұрын
@@scholagladiatoria Iirc the wording is 'a doublet of fustian lined with satin cut full of holes' so it might just be the satin lining which is cut for decoration.
@texasbeast2393 жыл бұрын
Perhaps a knight is meant to mix a gear component from an experienced knight into his own kit (ala "something borrowed, something blue" in wedding garb)? In that case, the knight might pick a doublet of an unfortunate knight who had been run through several times--thus, literally "cut full of holes"! 😋
@randalthor7413 жыл бұрын
@@scholagladiatoria good point: there wouldn't be much reason to mention it unless it was referring to something that some arming doublets might have while others wouldn't.
@emmanueleustache1793 жыл бұрын
Cheers for your great work; I had my first hema lesson an hour ago, and I can say your work gave me most of my motivation ! Cheers from France
@zoukatron3 жыл бұрын
I'm intrigued by the concept of leaving out the shirt. I recognise that the extra layer adds more thickness and that it will not stop sweat getting through to the doublet, but it would stop the doublet from getting as dirty from rubbing against the skin. My instinctive preference would be to choose a doublet with one less layer and then have the shirt too. Although, it could be that there are a minimum number of layers that the doublet needs to be strong enough to support the armour.
@scholagladiatoria3 жыл бұрын
While editing the video, I was also thinking about this. I suspect that it's a comfort thing, to avoid rucking up of the shirt inside the doublet. Arming doublets have to be extra tight, and once the armour is on, there is really no easy way to pull the shirt down if it rides up inside the doublet during movement.
@peterbrazukas77713 жыл бұрын
Gaining and losing body mass would have been a very important thing to manage then, given how close fitting it all is.
@LuxisAlukard3 жыл бұрын
Q: How A Man Shall Be Armed? A: With Style!
@jamesmiddleton12783 жыл бұрын
Satin lining - chafing and feeling cool. Wet linen/cotton especially of a looser weave really chafes those nipples and where the armour presses on the body. I base this on personal experience albeit wearing modern ballistic armour, when you need to avoid cotton shirts, and go for a softer lining fabric.
@fionafiona11463 жыл бұрын
Softer and smoother, satin is a particularly smooth wave of silk
@NevisYsbryd3 жыл бұрын
Composite properties might have played a factor. Linen, cotton, and especially silk, interact in different ways to being cut; a combination may have been a _jack_ of all trades compromise design, to make it moderately effective against a variety of threats. And/or similar composite features (eg different cushioning effects).
@GCCRACER3 жыл бұрын
Fascinating how much "precision technology" and material science was needed to produce a well-armored (and armed) knight. Thanks for the indepth-discussion. BTW, if you google "How A Man Shall Be Armed" the Royal Armories did some really detailed videos on the process of getting into the armor.
@prinzvongrorgenwugs74743 жыл бұрын
Perhaps the knee wrap was for helping the knee joints support the added stress of the armours weight, like modern athletes do wen they have an injury.
@laramyelliott29033 жыл бұрын
Considering the fact that the little roll he was holding looked just like an Ace bandage I'd say your right
@SuperOtter133 жыл бұрын
Thank you gentlemen for sharing your insights with us. Enjoyed it immensely and learned some new things. Which is what I love about this channel.
@blsancinet74093 жыл бұрын
I would love to see You make a video using your suit of armour. Maybe how to put it on.
@scholagladiatoria3 жыл бұрын
Yes I am planning this. I just have a couple of alterations to get done first, which is why I haven't done it yet. That being said, there are certainly videos I can do without those alterations being done yet.
@DJRockford833 жыл бұрын
The thrifty English knight by the sounds of things. On the "full of holes", given the money saving tips, I would think this was a colloquialism for something like "all the correct holes in all the correct places" ie for the laces. I like examples like this, the sources seem a little more down to earth and human.
@Devin_Stromgren3 жыл бұрын
On the point of the waxed points, in leatherworking with non synthetic thread, one is supposed to wax the thread. Part of the reason for this is that the wax protects the thread from abrasion from the leather. This may be part of the reason why the points are waxed, to protect them from abrasion and fraying.
@edwinrollins1423 жыл бұрын
Oooh, longer and more historically in-depth video, nice!
@ChristianThePagan3 жыл бұрын
German late 15th century Armour wasn’t normally extensively pointed to the underlying doublet. Whenever it was pointed to the underlying garment it was probably pointed to the mail, not the doublet. Generally you can wear a late Gothic harness without pointing it to your garments in any way except maybe the top of the leg harnesses. Other rules may have applied to Italian harnesses, including Alla Tedesca.just thought I’d mention this because the English wore a lot of Italian export armour, Alla Inglese, and the pointing instructions would not necessarily have applied to armour sourced in Germany.
@chronicdose3 жыл бұрын
Lindybeige mentioned in the context of military footwear that the US army had found that having a thin nylon sock on he inside with a thicker wool sock on the exterior. I wonder if using this same technique with silk inner layer with wool outer layer would provide padding, while still being cool and wool should wick away sweat!
@01ZombieMoses103 жыл бұрын
Yes I have personally found that wearing dual layers of socks is the thing to do when a lot of foot travel is necessary. It really cuts down on the chafing and insulates your foot from the shoe which more often than not is not great for regulating temperature (although to be fair I have used boots that have extensive, porous padding designed specifically to help regulate temperature)
@chronicdose3 жыл бұрын
@@01ZombieMoses10 I agree, it's personally worked for me in boots I wear for airsoft or in the winter. It is surprisingly cool even in the summer,and keeps my feet comfortable for many hours. I wonder if that strategy could be used under armor!
@wordwyrd3 жыл бұрын
Silk socks under wool is how backpackers have done it for longer than I've been alive.
@Taeerom3 жыл бұрын
Nylon under your thick wool socks in the combat boots is one of the deadly sins in the Norwegian armed forces. A lot of recruits do it when they get new boots and when walking them in in order to avoid chafing. But it really fucks you over when it gets cold. In the cold, you need those big woolly socks straight on the skin. Anything else is asking for frostbite. Nylon is especially dangerous, since it nearly completely voids the warming properties of wool. The actual way to avoid chafing is to use your boots extensively so that the leather fits your foot perfectly, keep the boots well treated, and be mindful of foot hygiene. Before going for a walk (as in several days or weeks marching), you need to file off all dead skin, have a good foot bath, cut and file the nails, all the pedicure. We were giggling like girls and finding it silly first time before going out. But you quickly take it seriously. Your feet are hella important, and you got to take good care of them. Having nice feet are more important than having a spotless rifle.
@barnettmcgowan89783 жыл бұрын
Great video. I enjoyed hearing practical historical details about wearing armor. It brings the past into the present for me.
@asahearts13 жыл бұрын
The should have worn Superdry. "Cut full of holes" makes me think of an American football jersey.
@01ZombieMoses103 жыл бұрын
That is actually a really good point. I think when the holes are small and uniform it probably imposes a lower cost on the durability of the fabric than if you made long, knife cuts for instance.
@kevinrobinson56543 жыл бұрын
Football and lacrosse jerseys, athletic shorts, swim trunks - "cut full of holes" is exactly how I would describe those specialized pieces of clothing. But nothing else I have ever owned... It seems likely that the contemporary and historical items were modified in similar ways for similar reasons. Especially when considering the context.
@Old_School_Builds2 жыл бұрын
Perhaps the silk was meant to be the layer closest to the body like the Mongols did. I believe that it aids in removing arrows as it wraps around the arrow as it's penetrates the body and the silk aids in its removal, from what I have read.
@stairwayunicorn48613 жыл бұрын
and here i thought this would be a response video to the playlist by Royal Armouries
@randallpetroelje39133 жыл бұрын
I absolutely love this. Thanks 🙏 this is practical and a brilliant view into warriors of the past.
@calumhunter8153 жыл бұрын
You are a grand chap, keep up.the good work.
@noraye25003 жыл бұрын
Jason Kingsley from Modern History TV did an video a few years ago showing how to put on his suit of armor, fun stuff.
@charlesdrew39473 жыл бұрын
I'm failing to remember the name but the was a chap working with ASH (armour services historical) something like medieval ratters, but anyway he made a doublet full of holes all over. These stitched holes made the whole thing really tough almost like a stab vest. Not just holes for the arming points.
@philhughes38823 жыл бұрын
Interesting. That would help prevent any stretching / moving out of alignment while providing ventilation as well. That "full of holes" means something important and your theory definitely works.
@airnt3 жыл бұрын
there is a German source where he talks about having a full mail shirt and brayettes under the full plate.... that source has even more issues with it in terms of source criticism, and of course it shows a regional distinction (also slightly later) this might also be to do with the 'at his ease' point in thaat aa full mail shirt is a nice thing to wear around camp, in case, adn then stick all the other bits on when battle is expected, voiders are not really any help when the main plates are not put on (yet)
@nutyyyy3 жыл бұрын
There were variations throughout Europe. Italian men at arms tended to wear full haubergeons during much of the 15th century. Which makes sense as Matt says because some Italian harness covered less of the body but there was typically more mail present.
@airnt3 жыл бұрын
@@nutyyyy we do indeed see a lot of italians wearing mail shirts, (although we also have good evidence of 'bolero jackets' , voiders etc) this with the much heavier curasses... it really adds up. in general the Italian styles tend to cover MORE of the body. The italians (like Pietro monte) seem to distinguish between heavy and light full armour. The Germans seem to only have 'full armour' Pietro Monte specifically talks about the lighter armour being more a German style. similarly the Burgundians have heavy and light fully armoured guys. the stereotypical Italian style armour, however, have larger coverage poldrins, that are thicker, it has a hinge curass that has more thickness and more coverage in the fauld, more likely to have tassets as well. The mail showing in Italian armour is often overlapping serious plate defenses. In some cases we have full mail sleeves over top of full plate armour on the arms. there is definitely in all geographical areas people who omit certain sections of the armour, or omit them on occasion (like in the battle of san romano where the commander did not have time to put on his curass and helm and rode in just a mail shirt) also open face sallets are a bit more common in Italy, but then again seriously heavy duty armets are the main other option. German armour actually seems to favour more tightly tailoured mail, though, This really reduces weight for the same gauge of mail. it also is remarkably common to have mail trousers of various kinds, full shirts, long sleeves.::: Italian typical voiders are short sleeved but so trumpet shaped that we see a massive weight yet not full coverage of the elbow pit. full mail shirt can be anything from 8-19 kg in itself (really a rather large variance) Typical Italian curasses are about double the weight of a German curass. So i suppose it is variable everywhere, but there is a distinct difference in the interval we typically see for Italian armour to be much heavier. The German and Burgundian armour, however is still proofed to 'longbow proof' or 'heavy crossbow proof' including brigandines in both those classes. The italian armour could really put a lot of metal in front of you, like the Avant armour where the main plates of the curass including the fauld are 4 mm thick in the middle of the front, so overlapping at 8 mm, and then potentially a full mail shirt underneath.
@johnladuke64753 жыл бұрын
Brilliant insights on this medieval text: "Hoes are more expensive than bits of cloth."
@jackrice27702 жыл бұрын
Chafing! Soldiers have dealt with this issue for quite a while, apparently. You might laugh, but maintaining skin integrity is really important. Soldiers have been incapacitated by skin issues (trench foot, anyone?) and it's a serious route for infection. So chafing is actually a pretty important issue. Modern soldiers use anti-chafing powder or cream all the time.
@fatpad003 жыл бұрын
"Without a shirt" and "Lined with satin" makes me think it goes on the inside for comfort/ chafing
@corrugatedcavalier52663 жыл бұрын
Very nice! Zac is a great guest.
@Adam_okaay3 жыл бұрын
Matt I know you emphasize that it's strong, but I'd like to point out that 3 layers of linen offers quite a lot of protection, and unless a person is accustomed to wearing a gambeson it's going to seem quite padded, linen is also more durable that cotton. Although quite susceptible to Stabby Bois, a thick bladed choppy boii is gonna have a very hard time penetrating. Cotton is also hotter, and retains a lot more moisture, capable of of absorbing 3x it weight in water.
@rogerhull20623 жыл бұрын
good one
@paultowl19633 жыл бұрын
Very interesting!
@ryankolick41173 жыл бұрын
So I got to ask since he mentioned a link to his tailer for his arming doublet what is that link? I'm looking at my opinions for getting started with harnesfechtin
@Jeffery00cox4 ай бұрын
Cotton soaks up sweat and linen evaporates it. Is it possible this combo helps one cool off faster?
@andreweden94053 жыл бұрын
In previous videos with Zach, I had thought that his main sword was the Albion "Burgundian". However, seeing it a little closer up in this one, it appears to be something similar, but slightly different. Is it the work of Mark Vickers over at St. George's Armoury? As for his other sword, it looks to be based off one of the so-called Castillon Hoard swords with the "scent-stopper" pommel. Also, some music to listen to that is pretty much exactly contemporaneous with the manuscript being discussed. From the Buxheimer Orgelbuch, a German music manuscript compiled in about 1460... kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqLPYYyYfqeladE And the opening of Guillaume Dufay's (1397-1474) mass based on the popular war song "L'homme armé" ("The Armed Man") from about 1455... kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpu8eZ2Ig6esjdE
@ZacharyEvans3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the question. The sword is an Arma Bohemia one, but they use several different smiths so I'm not sure who actually made it.
@ZacharyEvans3 жыл бұрын
The castillon one is a mark vickers, and it's the one I use in reenactment battles.
@andreweden94053 жыл бұрын
@@ZacharyEvans , Thank you for your reply, and I apologize for the misspelling of your name! All I had to go from was the description, and that's how it was spelled. Anything with a "fishtail" pommel catches my eye, as I do happen to own an Albion Burgundian. However, your swords are both stunning examples of two different styles from a period of immense beauty not only in weapons, but also in the Fine Arts, music, architecture, etc.
@SandraOrtmann19763 жыл бұрын
Wonder how often you had to exchange or repair such an arming doublet...as it had to hold quite a lot of items, and possibly withstand a lot of movement.
@climbernerd599510 ай бұрын
You're a worse fighter when you overheat and sweat must evaporate to cool a person so the better the sweat escapes the cooler/better the fighter is. So maybe not wearing a shirt helps as sweat is then absorped directly into doublet (useful for purposes upcoming). Cotton is a powerful wick so it pulls sweat out of the silk (inside lining I'd guess), away from the skin and towards the air where it can cool the person. Armour massively reduces your evaporation surface area which is an issue and cutting literal unhemmed holes leaves open/fraying edges that go through all layers. Maybe fraying edges on multiple layers helps by creating good surface area for extra evaporation and therefore cooling (when that place is ex[posed to air). Through all layers also might help by letting sweat wick directly along each layer (even the deepest ones) to the evaporation surface rather than needing to cross between. Also medieval fabrics don't stretch well I believe because they are woven not knitted (no knitting machines to make t-shirt fabric baack then) which might restrict movement a lot (they have clever tailoring I think but still potentially an issue). Cutting holes may allow stretching of the fabric as the holes can deform (depending somewhat on the placement and shape). I'm also wondering now if any style of armour and places they left uncovered were informed by needing places to let out heat. Like obviously armpits ar hard to armour from a movement perspective but maybe they are also an easy place to defend when fighting and expose to cool down. Maybe landsknechts wide, slitted, fabric clothing came about out of wanting clothing that didn't restrict joints (no stretchy fabrics yet?) and let in plenty of breeze for cooling.
@norbertschanne19433 жыл бұрын
Could the blankets on the knee also support the structure of the leg in order to reduce damage to meniscus/cruciate ligaments? Similar to modern medical sleeves?
@kevinrobinson56543 жыл бұрын
Step one: pop that collar.
@jm93713 жыл бұрын
Facinating!
@konsyjes3 жыл бұрын
10:30 Explanation of "points" 11:00 I understand the points. 14:30 ...STILL explanation of points.
@cloudcleaver233 жыл бұрын
They did not get to the point.
@AnotherDuck3 жыл бұрын
@@cloudcleaver23 But we did get the point.
@erichaines75803 жыл бұрын
@@AnotherDuck I'm glad you pointed that out
@AnotherDuck3 жыл бұрын
@@erichaines7580 You're welcome!
@trancamortal5 ай бұрын
didn't they fit the armor as necessary to keep It fitting the user or as It wasd passed along to other people?
@danieltaylor52313 жыл бұрын
Would the padded coif help keep sweat out of the knight's eyes?
@sameerthakur7203 жыл бұрын
Most important armament for the Knight: Knight Vision Goggles. (pardon me, my ingliss good not is)😀
@CitizenSmith503 жыл бұрын
Could the word after "leather-worker's" be "comb" as in 'honeycomb" = beeswax ?
@joejoelesh1197 Жыл бұрын
@12:04 I thought the modern term was flugelbinder
@frankharr94663 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I can see how that ll works. 1 cm= 3/8 or 1/3 in.
@philjohnson17442 жыл бұрын
Brigandine does not seem to need points. Is that yet another benefit of it?
@texasbeast2393 жыл бұрын
As the source appears to have been written in ME, do we know it to have been written for an English audience? Or was it a translation of an earlier work meant for an entirely different country and its associated armor style?
@duchessskye40723 жыл бұрын
No, it's definitely an original manuscript. The armour described is also very typical for mid-1400s england
@michaelwhite80313 жыл бұрын
Would the silk on the inside keep you cooler ?
@hypnotik13143 жыл бұрын
Love the vid, very interesting.
@strydyrhellzrydyr13453 жыл бұрын
They were just trying to figure out ways to make things fit nicely.. comfortably... That's all they were doing.. or trying to figure out as they go.. as they invent... And we should try and figure out ways to make things comfortably fit for us... These days... With the technology we have these days
@strydyrhellzrydyr13453 жыл бұрын
Wait... Did u guys happen to wear the same outfits... Or is this old footage from when u did the horse video with him... That was a while back
@MarcRitzMD3 жыл бұрын
Why are you in a tent and standing around? How would a Knight's tent be furnished?
@johnathanharris8883 жыл бұрын
No, tents and equipment were moved long distances by squires. Furniture would not have been included..
@MarcRitzMD3 жыл бұрын
@@johnathanharris888 damn, so knights on campaigns actually lived way less comfortably than LARPers. What a shame
@munstrumridcully2 жыл бұрын
I really don't get how medieval Knights ever developed heavy Cavalry Charges when a good Destrier had so much training to be able to be a reliable war horse that, purely in terms of money and time invested, would be like me riding into battle on something worth more than my house is, in today's money LOL
@bretalvarez30973 жыл бұрын
Zach looks like he's being held against his will when he's not speaking.
@stocktonjoans3 жыл бұрын
I've worked with some of the Destrier guys, sound blokes to a man
@Jim582233 жыл бұрын
16:18 dummy thicc, got a dump truck that fellow
@Zaeyrus3 жыл бұрын
For the Algorithm!
@ericstoverink65793 жыл бұрын
Aglets, their true purpose is sinister.
@jorgemiguel26413 жыл бұрын
This person looks like a very young Skallagrim.
@a-blivvy-yus3 жыл бұрын
I now want to see someone attempt - based on the immediately-corrected misspoken line in this video - to make a crossbow bolt out of twine.
@piethein43553 жыл бұрын
The shirt might not stop the sweat but it would still stop the greese and skin from getting in the doublet right.
@hic_tus3 жыл бұрын
we should mention, the age of cotton in europe came with a very unfortunate period for some other people around the world. ehm.
@vilijanac3 жыл бұрын
I want these waxed laces for me boots. :)
@dantherpghero28853 жыл бұрын
Any civilized man can act barbaric. It's is however, impossible for a barbaric man to act civilized."-Spock.
@scintillam_dei3 жыл бұрын
I did a video refuting the Metatron's propaganda about samurais VS Spaniards. In the Spanish Empire, the sun never set, so the Spanish didn't have knights then, but kdays.
@elshebactm67693 жыл бұрын
🤠👍🏿
@traviswebb75853 жыл бұрын
So you're wearing an undershirt and a golf blouse.
@johanneszimmermann32993 жыл бұрын
Erster!
@VompoVompatti3 жыл бұрын
When you grow older and fatter you need a breast plate stretcher.