Рет қаралды 15,329
The chart said: 4-6ft West swell, 12sec period, SE wind. This is a sick chart for the North Coast of Cornwall. Day 1 it was head high and perfect at first light and it stayed like that all day. Day 2 the swell jumped to 8ft but I had an idea where would be firing.
I surfed my 5.6 bonzer for the whole swell, everyone in the line up was amping.