Scratch Build HO Scale Buildings - Making a Scrap Yard Industry - Ep. 2

[@Musecrafter]

I like it that you show your mistakes. I think it is helpful in learning the techniques. I also like it when you say things like "The thought behind this is......"

[@bugler75]

Great idea with the backside of the blade 👍🏼 Thanks Joe, Ian

[@nicolaiitchenko7610]

Chunks from the nibbler tool can be added to a half full jar of Testors liquid cement where it will dissolve and become a somewhat viscous fluid that is perfect for using as a 'filler' for any plastic work requiring repair.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

I have made such a fluid using pieces of styrene strip, but the fact that your suggestion uses material I would have ordinarily thrown away is genius!

[@Weesel71]

OH angle worked well. Very clear to see what you are doing.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

Thanks. I like it. I think it allows the viewer to see a lot and I have to worry less about blocking the camera. (though it still happens from time to time)

[@williambryant5946]

The Walthers brick sheet you used for this are very thick. That's good in a way because you don't need to laminate it to a piece of styrene but it screws you up when trying to make precise cutouts for windows and doors and cut down to size. I'd rather use thinner material from another supplier and laminate it to 0.40 or 0.60 styrene. JTT Scenery makes a brick wall sheet that is less expensive than other suppliers of the thinner sheets and it works very good in my opinion. It's up to whatever the individual thinks works best for them at the end of trying different materials. With this, as with many things in the hobby; there is not really a wrong way or a right way to do scratch building. The right way is having fun and enjoying what you're doing because this is supposed to be fun. Great video. Very enjoyable. Always like scratch building videos. Stay well. -Wil 👍

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

I used the Walthers sheets for that very reason: I didn't want to have to laminate the large walls. I did use a thinner brick sheet (from the N Scale Architect) for the tops of the faux back walls. You'll (hopefully) see that in Part 2. Thanks for the kind words on the video!

[@w.rustylane5650]

I'm in the process of scratch building 2 HO scale structures; one is a single level brick house made from an old English Leather cologne redwood box--the whole structure is made from wood. The other is a 2 story business (probably a lumber company) which I'm making out of foam core board. I've been making small card strips and gluing around the outside to be batten board siding which is a very tedious task. Before I add the Tichy windows and doors I'm going to airbrush the 2 story structure (I've already painted the windows & doors) and put on the brick plasticized card stock from Rail Scale on the single story house. Cheers from eastern TN

[@ruatrainman2]

Hi Joe, you've done some great work. You can always mix filler with the similar color paint to hide seems and gaps. I've done that so many times, don't worry ,you're doing a good job. Sorry about the messed up video footage, I've also done that many times lol. I can't wait to see the finished project. Dave.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

Thanks, Dave. I didn't want to go too crazy here, since the filler wouldn't have the brick pattern. I think the way things turned out look pretty good. Stay tuned. :)

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

I had a 22" radius curve, half circle fit on a 4' wide surface. 6 axle locos ran good, at slow speeds. I don't have anything large like auto racks or 80' box cars though.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

For me it was less about how they ran (I’ve never had a problem with derailments and I use 4 axle power) than it was about how they looked. The long cars just look odd to me hanging over the curve like they do.

[@davestrains6816]

New sub here. Building has a good start, looking forward to the finish. You could always do a voice over the sped up part. Actually those above normal speed videos seem to do quite well. That nibbler is pretty neat, tough to use on N scale. Thanks for sharing. Dave

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

Hi Dave. Glad to have you along. The voice over method is pretty much what I'm doing. And luckily I'd taken lots of stills along the way, too. I've used the sped up video method to good effect in other videos for certain, slow or repetitive tasks, but this takes it to the extreme!

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

Hi Joe, to remove the bulk of the plastic, how about a "hot knife", melt your way through the excess material then do the fine finishing? Thanks for your videos, getting not only ideas but inspiration to boot.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

Have you tried this? I've never heard of anyone doing it, so I'm curious as to how well it would work.

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

@@ThePixelDepotLLC I rigged up a wire to the tip of my soldering iron, plastic melted pretty quick, too quick for any degree of control. Xacto I think has or had a set up with a #11 blade in an adapter for a soldering/wood burning iron some time ago. So I think if you were to try the soldering iron/wire wrapped around the tip, some sort of temperature controller would be needed to find the best temperature to maintain control do the business.

[@patapscofallsdivision2579]

A step drill bit is meant for cutting through thinner material and may help with controlling damage when drilling your holes. The Walthers brick is tough stuff. I miss the old Holgate & Reynolds brick. Currently I am using wood laser cut brick from Monster Modelworks and KC's Workshop.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

I've managed to amass a wide variety of tools over the years, but I've never gotten a step drill bit. I'll have to try it out. I did use a thinner brick sheet (from the N Scale Architect) for the tops of the faux back walls. You'll (hopefully) see that in Part 2. Monster Modelworks stuff is nice. I've never gotten anything from KC's Workshop.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I use the nibbler to do many cut outs and I use the little nibbles (tee-hee-hee) and I put them in a small jar (air brush size) and add some solvent and in a few days I have a jar of filler that is free (so to speak)... To drill the starter hole, I use a drill that has multi sized holes so I can start small and as you go down into the material, the hole will get bigger...And yes I use a drill press... To keep from screwing up the work piece I always drill in the center of the space I want to get rid of. Never drill out to the edge.. Never !!! To file the opening to size, I usually clamp the wall between 2 pieces of wood (1/4 to 1/2 inch thick plywood) so I can sand the edges and not have the work piece flexing. i usually use a small vice but sometimes I have to use 2 "C" clamps to hold the wood and the wall. The wood can be placed as close to the final edge as you want. I usually use it to line up the brick line I want to file to. Overhead camera angle is fine.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

I like the idea of having a building on a curve. I thought the exacto blade worked a lot quicker also

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

It never hurts to experiment a little.

[@ronscannell6942]

I really like your videos

[@abdullahabu1252]

Hi, Joe, I am interested in your show, I like to know more about how I design a staging yard for my HO Scale model like engine yards and in-out staging area. Thank you and happy new year 2022.

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

I can do something like this, but I would also suggest checking out the Layout Design Special Interest Group. (www.ldsig.org/) Most everything I know about Layout design comes from my membership with this group. They have a "Model Railroad Design Aids" section that is free even to non-members that is very useful.

[@abdullahabu1252]

@@ThePixelDepotLLC Thank you Joe for your support to my e-mail and request and have good day and a happy new year 2022.

[@brrrinalaska6411]

Could try using a wood bit to start your pilot holes.

[@uptownphotography]

Question please: Where do you buy that nibbler tool. Also, can it cut/nibble on say thin mat board and/or thin wood clap siding board? Thanks and nice video. Well done. Phil NYC/Jersey Shore Area

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

You can buy it at Micromark (www.micromark.com). If you use PIXELDEPOT as your coupon code you'll get 10% off your order. It should have no problem going through mat board or thin wood. However, I've never tried it on those, so I don't know if the pressure will damage the surrounding material, so I would test it on scrap first.

[@uptownphotography]

@@ThePixelDepotLLC Thanks for the info...Appreciated very much.

[@davidhefner8853]

Have you ever used counter top laminate?

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

I have not. Do you mean to provide structure for walls?

[@denisestevens6492]

Hi do enjoy yr channel with all yr tips..tricks & oops Mistakes. Your helping me along as I am rather new. Q- is a cutter better or do u like yr nibbler. Cheerz Denise W.A..

[@ThePixelDepotLLC]

The nibbler works really well when you have to cut something from the midlle like the opening for a door or a window. For most other things, I'd use a cutter. Glad you enjoy the channel!