Scullcom Hobby Electronics #14 - GPS System with Arduino Mini & OLED Display

[@coriscotupi]

I've been in the IT field or ver 30 years and had never seen someone take the time to explain code in such line-by line detail, let alone for free, let alone for an audience of perfect strangers. We are all indebted deeply to you. Subscribed, of course. Many, many thanks for posting this most interesting project.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your kind comments. I am no expert in Arduino code programming but if I go through the code I try to explain it the best I can. My training and experience is mainly in design, maintenance and repair of hardware electronics which I was involved in all my working life. When I was younger in the 1970's I also did some teaching of electronics for about 8 years. I am now retired and still enjoying electronics but now as a hobby in my spare time.

[@georgef7754]

Seven years later and still a great tutorial. Thank you.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks George for your kind comments. regards Louis

[@alehvalelabs7596]

Found this video today. Excellent material, the only sketch that actually works with the OLED and the GPS! Thanks for sharing.

[@XFolf]

I love how your white board drawing and the real thing are literally damn near about as simple. Brilliant selection of hardware and implementation good sir!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

XFolf Thanks for your comments.

[@visitslovenija]

Hi. Have only just discovered you channel. Marvellous stuff. This project may be a few years old now, but still very relevant. Thanks a lot for your hard work.

[@rickpercy87]

Thanks for taking the time to go through the code so clearly and thoroughly. Along with the block diagram this has made a relatively complex project easy to understand.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comments.

[@bunch8]

That half hour went by quickly. Very interesting project. I especially appreciate your line-by-line description of the code. The time you take to fully explain module connections makes this fairly simple to replicate. Very well done and professional. Thank You. I just subscribed (and Liked of course).

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your kind comments.

[@AmericanMaking]

Just found you. Great Tutorials. You deserve a lot more views.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

James Sesler Thank you.

[@djbare9]

Stopped by to say thank you, followed your instructions, devices are on a breadboard and working, thank you for your videos and help they give.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+djbare9 Thanks.

[@mitchellhw2006]

Terrific video. Well organized and thoughtfully designed. I like the fact that you go through your code and explain the processes as they occur.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks Harvey.

[@BY504A]

Thank you for explaining not only the build out, but the sketch as well. For this noob it was much appreciated!!!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Bill Younger Glad you found it helpful.

[@saulhunton7159]

just completed this project with great success!! thank you good sir!

[@RCTurbine]

Wow, one of the best presentations I have seen on KZbin. Thanks so much!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks Peter.

[@ImnotChuck.]

Although I subbed a Nano for the Pro-mini, and used a different GPS module, your code still ran perfectly (after I changed the OLED config in the library.) Thanks for a detailed, accurate, description. My next step is to add APRS capability and connect to my VHF radio.

[@Newsparklabs]

Another great project and video from Scullcom Hobby Electronics! I like that little OLED.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks.

[@ron7979]

That was, without doubt, the best arduino tutorial i have ever watched!!! Thank you for taking the time to put that to video!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Ronny Ronduino Thanks for your kind comments.

[@streetie31]

Great, thanks Louis, I will read up and give this ago. Will be a long process for but I'll keep in touch. Thanks again Jamie

[@jeremyhall3796]

Thank you for this video. I've just started watching your videos and like the format. I will give this one a try I think as it will be a great project to build with my son who is just starting to delve into electronics at age 12. He will love it!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Jeremy Hall Thanks. It nice to hear that young ones are interested in electronics, hope he enjoys it. Electronics is something that could be done more in schools!

[@bryansmith1303]

GREAT video with detailed display of project configuration (white board) and through explanation of the software. Question: Other than size can another Arduino be used? Thank You!

[@brandonlewis2599]

There's something about your style that reminds me of 16mm educational films. Maybe it's your "Engineer Brit" accent (I'm not up on this: are you from the North, or the Midlands, or Bristol or what..?). Or maybe it's the font you use in your titles, which is right out of Encyclopedia Britannica films. One thing I really have to give you credit for: you are direct, to the point, and you don't repeat yourself endlessly like a certain ausie bloke I know of. But at the same time, it's a very conversational style of delivery. I can tell you've prepared, but you're still kindof speaking off the cuff. Whatever it is, I like it.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Brandon Lewis Thanks. I am a Yorkshire man. In the 1970's I use to teach electronics. Mention of the 16mm educational films does bring back some memories!!!

[@robn7773]

Brilliant demo works perfectly !! well screen layout was a bit off but easy fix. Thanks

[@jimmystoba7899]

Did you blow up the first oled (before 6.45) by connecting + and - to gnd and scl? ;-p I noticed the colour of tape on the screen changed. It's good to point out mistakes so others don't make them. Great tutorial by the way. I want to do something similar as a tracker for my dog, to see how much more ground he covers than me when we're out for a walk. I've got an SD card adapter to store data, otherwise an identical set up. Jimmy.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Jimmy Stoba Well spotted ! One of the issues with these OLED displays is that the VCC and GND pins are reversed on some identical OLEDS. However, on this occasion it was my mistake when I plugged the first OLED in on the breadboard it was one position out so the positive supply was going to the GND pin in error and so damaged the OLED. I have been looking at these OLED displays lately and I have 4 which all have slightly different pin outs which are not obvious at first - I may do a separate video on the things to watch out for when using these type of displays. Thanks for pointing it out, I forgot to added it to my video at the time.

[@leighrobinson]

+Scullcom Hobby Electronics I know this is old now, but if you have a selection of these modules a video might help some people out as there are a few traps with these modules. There are a lot of Chinese companies grabbing these OLEDs using either a SSD1306 or SH1106 chip to drive. The chips themselves are not 5v tolerant, on either the VDD or VCC. It gets further complicated by the OLED actually needing at least 7.5v - which the chips can generate via an internal charge pump (if the breakout supplier fitted with the external capacitors) which must also be fed with a supply less than 5v. To fix this many of the breakout boards the modules are attached to have a 3.3v regulator for the VCC line. However without level shifters on the data lines (these chips can do I2C, SPI and parallel depending how the lines are broken out of the flat flex) they will die very quickly. Your module in this video doesn't appear to have the 3.3v regulator or any logic shifting on the data lines. At least it seems to have the charge pump caps across pins 2-3, 4-5... I have resorted to rolling my own little test board and remounting the panel to ensure I don't keep killing these things! Perhaps I should start making videos?! :D

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Leigh Robinson Thanks Leigh you raise some good points. I do have a selection of these OLEDs and it may warrant a video about them as you suggest. At the moment I am busy working on some other projects but will consider what you raise. Thanks Louis.

[@OffroadMXbohemia]

Hello, is there any posibility show the coordinates in other formats, like UTM? I need MGRS (similar to UTM)

[@pirateman1966]

Another masterpiece... Thank you Do you have any plans of working with FPGA's? I am sure their are many others like myself, who would be very interested in at least learning about them, and their use. There are other videos out there, but no one does it like you.

[@Roy_Tellason]

I wouldn't have cut an opening for the programming header, as presumably you're not going to be using it all that much. I would be interested in knowing what you used to cut that opening, though, and more specifically how you located and then cut the opening for the battery charging port, which you didn't mention in the video.

[@adrianglezmahe]

Fantastic !! It works perfectly !! Thank You.

[@brianjohnson6094]

One minor detail you omitted is that you need to verify that the Adafruit_SSD1306.h library is set to a 128x64 display. The default in the version I downloaded was 128x32 which really screwed up the display. Other than that a nice little GPS project!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Brain, Thanks for the comment and info with regards the library. I am sure this will help others if they have problems.

[@mr1983geek]

Just found your channel. Fantastic. Thank you for sharing your videos.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Mr1983Geek Thanks.

[@JerryEricsson]

Thanks a lot, I have been planning a project such as this for some time now, this is exactly how I wanted my setup to be, perhaps with a different display, but I do have some OLED displays that will work so instead of hacking up your code, I think I will just use one of them instead of the one I planned on using, it was larger, but used SPI instead of I2C bus.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for you comments and good luck with your build.

[@JohnnyWalkerArt]

Well done!! Looking forward to my project. You have set me on a good course. Thank you.

[@JonHeckendorf]

Thank you so very much for this project and your excellent explanation. I enjoy your teaching method. I am your newest subscriber too. I am looking forward to more of your videos.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Jon Heckendorf Thanks for you kind comments and to subscribing.

[@michael1unknown]

Cool !! :-) Very nice Tutorial ! I highly appreciate your work, code and all the details ! Thank you so much for showing !

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Michael unknown Thanks.

[@markbulla1851]

Very nice project - thanks for putting it up! I was concerned when your OLED module was one pin off, but it looks like you found that pretty quickly... Thanks also for going through the code - very useful! If you want "Feet" instead of "Meters" do you have to reprogram the GPS module or the Arduino?

[@EZtech]

Great video, The voltage converter isn't necessary on the OLED display and the GPS (assuming that is a Ublox 6m) both of these devices will work on 3.3v and the arduino pro mini is 3.3volts too if u wanted to go that route.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Revelation612 Thanks. Yes agree you could power both from 3.3v.

[@Tutoringservices]

Very good tutorial, indeed I have never seen anyone from start to finish clearly describe entire project from start to finish covering not only electronic circuits but building a case box. I like the process of thinking that goes in your mind as you encounter the problems. I wonder if I was to drop this box from the 2nd floor.... will it crack? Is there anyway to secure components inside the project box somehow that it can pass the drop test? If I was to put glue all over this circuit.... and encapsulate entire circuit in glue, will it maximize the chances of this box surviving drop test? Also.... most likely Oled will not survive drop test and crack.... Is there anyway to make it less likely to crack? What would be the way to increase strength of OLED? If I was to add some sort of transparent polycarbonate glass fiber type of material on top of OLED will it do the trick of protecting OLED from cracking and passing drop test? In regards to case cover, case looks durable enough.... to pass the test... I am fascinated by projects like this and trying to learn as much as I can, this video is solid and concrete and makes sense. Thank You for finding time to show this to us.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comments.

[@h311sb311s]

Thanks for the code, video, and time spent for our benefit. Have this running on Pro-mini. Now to convert code to use for Nano. Also subscribed to channel!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comment.

[@Maher-]

Thank you very much for the video, I like the way you set put the wiring in the box so neat, and thanks for the deep explanation about the code. May I ask about the Lipo charger is that, dose it charge all type of battery and how to know if the battery are full or still need charging? Thanks again

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks Maher for your comments. The charging module I used is OK for any single cell LiPo batteries (3.7V). Most LiPo batteries these days come with a protection circuit which cuts off the charge voltage when it is fully charged (if you look at the battery in my video you will notice the thin PCB with components on at the end of the battery) so you could leave it connected and normally the charger module would go in to trickle charge mode. The charging module uses the TP4056 chip, if you look it up on google have a look at the datasheet. Regards, Louis

[@Roy_Tellason]

@@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702 I have similar charging modules that include protection, both handling the charging of the battery and cutting them off to prevent over-discharge. That way I can use a lot of the salvaged 16550 cells I've pulled out of laptop batteries. I also have some of the 5V output modules but in my case I made it a point to get them with USB connectors on the board, so I essentially have some home-made power banks, with as many cells as I care to put in them. :-)

[@vtvt4447]

REALLY GOOD! Thank you very much!

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

The OLED on the breadboard is offset one pin to the right. You could have saved yourself some trouble by fitting the perf board the other way up, enabling the micro to be fitted with header pins. Great job, though.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comment. Yes at one point I had the OLED offset but then corrected it. Regards, Louis

[@alkuzaee2010]

Thanks for a fantastic project and explanation . , If we need to develop a completed project like google maps application using Arduino to use it like a portable GPS as in Mobile phone used in navigation, Can you advise.? Thanks again

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+alkuzaee2010 Thanks for your comments. Regarding your question - you could log and store the GPS tracking data on to a SD card (we would have to add some additional hardware i.e. SD card reader with some additional Arduino code) and then use it on google earth but you will have to first convert the CSV data in to a format suitable to be displayed by the Google Earth mapping program. Google Earth accepts KML (Keyhole Marked Up Language) and KMZ (compressed KML file) formatted files. There are many programs on the Internet that can be used to convert a CSV type file in into KML or KMZ format. Have a look at GPS Visualizer which is a free, easy-to-use online utility (www.gpsvisualizer.com). I have not done this myself as yet but may be it would be of interest for a future project.

[@tsounamye]

Thanks for your videos, they all are great! For this one especially I've a question, I'd like to know if we can recharge the LiPo battery and use it in the same time? I've a tablet DIY project and for this I need something to recharge a 3.7V battery, while I can use the tablet (I need something like 2A ~ 2A5 at 5V), is it possible like you did for this project? (Or will I need to use a circuitry like the LTC4155 ?) Thank you

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+tsounamye Sorry for the delay, I missed your comment. Yes you can recharge the LiPo battery and use the unit at the same time.

[@electro3976]

Great tutorials i enjoy them very much.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Piddy D Thanks.

[@tomwilliam5118]

I really like this video especially the detail step by step Arduino program

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks.

[@iantcroft]

Hi Louis, great tutorial! I am making a similar project, I am trying to make it low power and use sleep modes. Do you have any idea of the projects current consumption and consumption of each module? I am especially interested in finding out what the 5V step up module consumes. Thanks, Ian.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Ian, The GPS modules uses about 40mA. The Arduino Pro Mini takes about 5mA. The OLED display power consumption is about 0.5W so at 5V it could draw about 100mA maximum but may be lower. The battery charger module current will depend on LiPo battery current charge state. The 5V step up module current will be related to the total power consumption of all the other modules. The total power of the project could be as high as 150mA. Regards, Louis

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Just an aside. With regards the LiPo charger module there is a resistor on that module that sets the charging current which could be up to 1 Amp.

[@iantcroft]

Thanks for your reply Louis. I think I will have to buy on of those boost converters and measure the current throughout the lipos life cycle. I may buy one of those cheap single cell 18650 power bars as that has an all in one boost and charge module (I think!). 5mA is quite low consumption from the 5V pro mini, are you using sleep modes? I am measuring 16.5mA from a bare atmega328p chip (16mhz) powered with regulated 5V. I also have a 3.3V 8mhz pro mini, removed power led and regulator, and that is consuming 5.5mA Regards, Ian.

[@draghiciciprian4002]

Great job! Congrats! I'll try to made one! Thank you for great tutorial my friend!

[@jtn8170]

Very nice project. At the moment I am building a clock for my bedroom also using the NEO-6M. On my module I have a PPS signal which is used to trigger a interrupt, this makes it much more precise. Without PPS I could not get it better than 300mS off with PPS it is within a few ms. It looks like PPS, on your module is connected to a led (Neo-6M pin3) so it should be easy to connect to the Arduino. The only disadvantage is that the displays I have interfere with the interrupt, that is not a problem in my case, I am using 7seg digits and shift registers. But it is a problem to automatic shift between summer and winter time, how do you solve that?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks. With regards to automatic shift between summer and winter time. I am not sure if the TinyGPS library handles that. They use NMEA sentences $GPGGA and $GPRMC sentences in their library. The GPS also sends a specific Time Date NMEA sentences which is $GPZDA. You may need to investigate that and how to read it. Some info below and example below: ZDA - Data and Time $GPZDA,hhmmss.ss,dd,mm,yyyy,xx,yy*CC $GPZDA,201530.00,04,07,2002,00,00*60 where: hhmmss HrMinSec(UTC) dd,mm,yyy Day,Month,Year xx local zone hours -13..13 yy local zone minutes 0..59 *CC checksum The link below gives full GPS NMEA information: navspark.mybigcommerce.com/content/NMEA_Format_v0.1.pdf Regards, Louis

[@jtn8170]

Thank you for a quick replay. Yes, if only the the gps module I have had support for $GPZDA. I don't think the cheap modules support $GPZDA it would require some sort of calender function in the gps module to figure out when daylight savings start and stop. Anyway, it is fun to work with gps and exiting to see exactly how precise you can get the clock. Do your module output $GPZDA?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

The Neo uBlox should support $GPZDA. Below is a link for a Arduino library which may help you as it supports $GPZDA protocol: github.com/SlashDevin/NeoGPS Regards, Louis

[@jtn8170]

Thanks for the link. The problem is that my module don't send $GPZDA. If I connect the gps modules serial out to arduinos serial monitor I can see the NEMA sentences and $GPZDA is unfortunately not present. I have now read the "u-blox 6 Receiver Description and Protocol Specification" and on page 67 it say "Local zone hours, not supported (fixed to 00)" So it would not help even if it did send the $GPZDA string. I just have to live with a manual switch. By the way, did you consider using PPS? Regards Jesper

[@viswesh713]

cool sir..... I made a similar one with L80 module and AVR ATmega32A. not familiar with the arduino thing.. your project is awesome..

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thank you.

[@kerrytobias8753]

This is a great project I am excited to build it but having trouble with the display. I have the display you Under that all text is squashed I cannot read it at all. I tried multiple displays even white I also tried a Nano and an UNO and have the same results. This project means alot to me can you assist? Respectfully Kerry

[@jparky1972]

I know this is 'old' on KZbin an technology timescales. but thanks. Do you happen to know how much memory space the code takes up? I ask as I am working on a unit that interfaces an aftermarket car ECU system. My unit will read and display data from the ECU. But it would be useful to also be able to add GPS data to that and save it to an SD card. I suspect a 328p may not quite have the memory needed.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Jason, The sketch uses 19,710 bytes (64%) of program storage space. Global variables use 1,343 bytes (65%) of dynamic memory, leaving 705 bytes for local variables. Regards, Louis

[@jparky1972]

That is brilliant. Thank you. I think I might have to look at ways to shrink my code. Mine uses an OLED too, so there is some overlap. But I suspect as is it's not going to fit. Thank you for getting back to me. 😊

[@raffyturc]

Hi Would like to build this too. Good that it uses software serial for the gps(and not the hw rx/tx of arduino). Was wondering if it would still still work (like a drop-in. HW replacement)with newer neoM8N gps(BN-180 or BN-220). These are smaller gps modules for smaller quads. Great content btw 👍

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Reply to PIRATEMAN comments: For some reason You Tube will not allow replies to any of your comments. Could it be due to the fact that they are "Linked Comment" not sure why. Anyway thanks for your comments. With regards your question on FPGA's - I have not had much time to play with them as yet.

[@walterhynson2898]

please check the spec sheet for the gps module as I have the exact same model and its data sheet says "maximum supply voltage is 3.6vdc. not 5.0 vdc

[@gostuff]

What DC-DC Converter are you using? Is it adjustable to use the 3.7 LiPo?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Gustaf Rylander Gerdeman The DC to DC converter was a DC-DC Boost Converter Step Up Module 1 to 5V input to a fixed 5V 500mA output. It is not adjustable but simply gives a fixed 5 volts output if used with a 3.7v LiPo. You can get them cheap on eBay for about a £1. Simply search on eBay for "DC-DC Boost Converter Step Up Module 1-5V to 5V 500mA Power Module" and you should find lots of sellers of this module. Hope this helps.

[@gostuff]

+Scullcom Hobby Electronics Ok, thanks! I have been shopping on eBay for some arduino pro mini -compatible boards, and found some Dc-dc converters and chargers. I want to put together a couple kits ready with power(li-po) charger and oled. just ready to be programmed. To not have to worry about output and power options every time. Thanks for a great video and help!

[@jackmantus]

Молодец! Буду её собирать!

[@reinaldodesouza5831]

Hi.Great project, thank you for sharing. Is possible change the date and time to other time zone ? In my case is -3. Regards, Reinaldo de Souza.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

You could try adding an offset value to the hour reading for your time zone, in your case it would be -3 So in the Arduino code: hour = hour - 3; If you download the code for this project then look for the following line in the code: gps.crack_datetime(&year, &month, &day, &hour, &minute, &second); Then add the following lines below that one which reads: hour = hour -3; //time zone offset to UTC time if (hour

[@reinaldodesouza5831]

Yes, works very well. Thank you too much. Best Regards, Reinaldo de Souza

[@rajithawijayaratne2059]

Would the double-sided tape melt with the heat dissipated?

[@HollyMapf]

Hy, great project. It is possible to show speeds instead of the Longitude and Latitude. I would like to measure the GPS speed and the highest speed of my RC car.

[@giuba5041]

Great tutorial, it can save the gps data or not?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Giuseppe Badagliacca Thanks. This project does not save the GPS data, but the circuit could be easily modified to add an SD Card to log the data. There are a number of standard and micro SD card Arduino shields on the market which are very low cost. You would also need to add additional Arduino Code for the SD card to store the data.

[@yiannis579]

Very nice project indeed!Thank you! I am builting a 4WD bluetooth controlled rodot with a 1.8'' TFT screen (with ST7735R driver) in order to display data from the robot sensors and i thought i would be nice to add an extra screen like the one you use in your project. So i modified my code using your code and when i powered my Arduino MEGA the OLED screen worked perfectly but thr TFT was half black (no data ) and half sort of blared.... And the strangest thing is when i uploaded the previous code (without the OLED code) the TFT displays data in half screen and the other half is still blared... I changed the TFT with another one (exactly the same) but still the same... Any idea why is that? Any thought is welcome! Thanks!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Yiannis G. Suggest you use the Arduino TFT library and add additional code for your 1.8'' TFT display. A good stating place would be the check out the Adafruit website as they sell this module and provide sample code on their website.

[@yiannis579]

+Scullcom Hobby Electronics Thank you for your answer. I found the problem... it was just one line of the code.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Yiannis G. Glad to hear you sorted your problem.

[@BikinTV1]

u just got 1 sub from malaysia sir

[@rlarsen76]

Very interesting project, how would one go about converting the GPS format into a more usable Degrees and Decimal Minutes format? Thank you for a lot of interesting videos, gives me inspiration for some projects :)

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+rlarsen76 Thanks for your comments. To show the readings in Degrees and Minutes format I think it could be done by using some additional Arduino code. I will look in to it.

[@vicesde]

Hello, the screen is 0.96 "or 1.3", because I'm missing lines to leave. Thank you

[@kushagranalwaya]

Do it need to be connected to the internet all the time?

[@mk6595]

Where'd you get that breadboard? I've never seen one like that.

[@NOTuNOTme]

I'm pretty sure I killed the serial input pin on my Neo6m (GPS) writing 5V logic to it. I realise you're only ever reading from the GPS here but people might miss they should step down to 3.3v if they want to write to it.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

NOTuNOTme Thanks for your comment. The unit I built is still working OK with the 5 volt logic level. It could be that some Neo6m (GPS) modules are 3.3 volt. I have 4 of these modules which I purchased from different suppliers and all mine work on 5 volt supply.

[@djbare9]

Scullcom Hobby Electronics I'm using the CRIUS CN-06 V3 U-blox GPS module, it has an LDO 3.3v regulator, I'v had it running with 4 nimh battery's, now currently running the system from a single 3.7v li-ion, despite the pro-mini and OLED being 5 volt rated, it's all working with that li-on.

[@SajolKumarDas]

this video teaches me a lot. I want to make a tracking device. Like vehicle tracking device. And which can send data through GSM and also can store the location data on memory. So is there anything like this?? Thanks in advance.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

It is possible to log location data in an SD Card and then read it back later and link it to Google Earth to view tracking data. You would need to add a small SD Card and add some additional Arduino code. Take a look at a video by Jeremy Blum in which he shows how this can be achieved. Link to his video is below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqW9do2Phqxjrs0

[@tubeDude48]

Will an Arduino NANO work for this? That would make it easier to re-program the Arduino with a USB cable rather then adding another board.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

I think you meant Arduino Nano as it already uses a Arduino Mini. This project will work just fine with Arduino Nano in which case you will mot need the FTDI module.

[@tubeDude48]

Yes, My-Bad!

[@namenotshown9277]

I have oled with P24B rather than P24c what is the difference?

[@iankesbey1487]

having issues with mine.......both displayed date and time are wrong........date is always for tomorrow......and time is always 18 hours slow

[@guboss360]

Work, buddy. I tested it on my arduino and only had to make some modifications to run on my work. I have some doubts regarding the code, I would like to know how to put some different lyrics and how do I display the speed already in that work. how can I put on display the speed (which I have to insert, how can I do). Thank you very much in advance

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi, The TinyGPS.h library has a several software command s to show speed: gps.speed(); // returns speed in 100ths of a knot gps.f_speed_knots(); // speed in knots gps.f_speed_mph(); // speed in miles/hr gps.f_speed_mps(); // speed in m/sec gps.f_speed_kmph(); // speed in km/hr If you would like display say km/hr on this project you could remove the number of satellites showing on the display to show speed in stead. Look for the following lines on code in the software for this project: display.setCursor(0,30); //set text start position to column=0 and row=30 display.print("Sats : "); //print "Sats :" to display display.println(gps.satellites());//print number of satellites detected to display Now replace those lines of code with the following lines: display.setCursor(0,30); //set text start position to column=0 and row=30 display.print("Speed : "); //print "Speed :" to display display.println(gps.f_speed_kmph()); //print Speed in km/hr to display Regards, Louis

[@guboss360]

thank you so much. I am very grateful for your channel, and for your commitment to meet us

[@cnc-machine6453]

Отличная работа!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Никита Вихорев My Russian is not very good but I understand this translates to "Good Work" So thank you for your comment "Спасибо за ваш комментарий"

[@gsms5846]

How do you switch the size of the screen

[@iankesbey1487]

Hi i love this little project. i have just one thing i would like to add to it and that is the ability to display the day of the week. can anybody out there please explain to me how to code for this.....thx

[@sherhasankhan4578]

sir, My Problem is that how to interface GPS shield Model #NEO-6m-0-001 with Arduino uno as well as Fingerprint Module R305 and problem occur in programing code some help me. Pleas I am very confused.

[@joshuarowe8410]

What breadboard is that? Or, what can I search to get one like that.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Joshua Rowe I purchased it from Rapid Electronics. The direct link for this project box which includes breadboard is: www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Rapid-Project-Box-59-x-87-x-31mm-30-0652

[@MrMonomonster]

Very nice and elegant!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your kind comment. I use my GPS little module to set up my computerised telescope which needs accurate time and coordinates as I use it in different locations - the blue display is quite good out in the dark.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Robee Shepherd Nice thought but I did take that into account before I filmed that part of the video - so not everything you see is what it appears. So you would be lucky if you managed to get tea at those coordinates !!!!!

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Scullcom Hobby Electronics Nice job, thanks. I would rather have a beer.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Robert Calk Jr. Thanks. I will be enjoying a beer later today !! :-)

[@anarmalikli7636]

Thanks for the project. I plan to assemble your device. Tell me. How do I set the time zone?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Anar, You do not say what your time zone is, but I give an example below for a time zone with a -3 difference to mine. You could try adding an offset value to the hour reading for your time zone, in in this example say it is -3. So in the Arduino code: hour = hour - 3; If you download the code for this project then look for the following line in the code: gps.crack_datetime(&year, &month, &day, &hour, &minute, &second); Then add the following lines below that one which reads: hour = hour -3; //time zone offset to UTC time if (hour

[@anarmalikli7636]

Thanks for the answer. My time zone is +4. I'll do the test. as soon as the oled display arrives. Sincerely, Anar

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Anar Since your time zone is +4 (you have a positive time difference). The code for that section on my code I explained in my example should now be changed to the following: Now the bottom section of the code for this project should now look like this for your time zone: //GET DATE AND TIME FOR DISPLAY static void print_date(TinyGPS &gps) { int year; byte month, day, hour, minute, second, hundredths; unsigned long age; gps.crack_datetime(&year, &month, &day, &hour, &minute, &second); hour = hour + 4; // your time zone offset of +4 to UTC time if (hour > 24) //if hour +4 goes over 24 hours { hour = hour - 24; //the actual hour is (hour + 4) - 24 } { char sz[32]; sprintf(sz, "%02d/%02d/%02d %02d:%02d:%02d", day, month, year, hour, minute, second); display.print(sz); //Print date and time to OLED } } //------------------------------------------------------------------------- Regards, Louis

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Anar, When you get your OLED just be careful you connect it the correct way otherwise you will damage it. One of the issues I have found with these small OLED displays is that the VCC and GND pins are reversed on some identical OLEDS (they are not always the same). So make sure you check which connections are which before you connect it to the circuit. Regards, Louis

[@anarmalikli7636]

Hello, sir. Thank you very much for the detailed description of the sketch. Really nice when a person is so responsive. I look forward to the display to start your clock!

[@NeilHodgsonDARKHOURS]

Worked out great thanks!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Neil Hodgson Glad to hear your happy with the project and all worked OK.

[@narendranMaqunistian]

is it possible for an arduino to use a larger OLED display to make the gps navigation possible

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+naren dran Yes you should be able to use larger OLED displays, I would suggest you get one which uses a I2C interface as this would be easier to set up.

[@narendranMaqunistian]

+Scullcom Hobby Electronics I am making a smart glass and planning to get a transparent OLED display but quite nervous whether arduino would support or not. can arduino provide high quality graphics display.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+naren dran The Arduino can drive most types of displays. The quality of the graphics depends on the quality and type of display module used and not the Arduino.

[@SajolKumarDas]

Hello, I have done this all. I need to add a new thing to this project. I think the OLED I am using, no need to light up all the time. I need it ON when i want it ON.I want to use a push switch. one push OLED ON, one push OLED off. I powered the setup. wait for satellite connectivity. Then the location appears on the OLED screen. The i power off to the OLED only. it is off the. After that again I gave power to the OLED. But nothing came out. and nothing showing on display. I push the reset button of my Arduino Uno, and then the OLED display appear. What short of change i have to do now?? Thanks in advance.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

If you remove power to the OLED then when you power it on again it would need to be initialized again. The OLED is normally initialized in the Setup routine of the software so when you press the reset button it will run the Setup code again. You could try adding the following line of code again in the main loop of the software: display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C); // initialize the OLED and set the I2C address to 0x3C (for the 128x64 OLED) Although this is not the normal way try add it just after the main loop starts as shown below: //MAIN PROGRAMME LOOP void loop() { display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C); //////

[@jimmystoba7899]

+Scullcom Hobby Electronics Just copied your setup and software, and it works a treat. :-) Next I'll add the SD Card. Thanks again.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Jimmy Stoba Glad to hear its working OK. I also considered adding a Micro SD Card for data logging of tracking data but have not done it yet. Would be interested in how you get on.

[@DanielMendoza-oh1oh]

Scullcom Hobby Electronics excuseme i don´t espeak english very well and i would like to know if you can send me the code of the program please for i analize it and i can do this proyect you could send me for my email??

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Daniel Mendoza Software Code for this project can be downloaded from the link below: www.scullcom.com/Scullcom_OLED_GPS.ino

[@DanielMendoza-oh1oh]

Scullcom Hobby Electronics ok thank you so much

[@zigzag230687]

excellent video, thanks

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

zigzag230687 Thanks.

[@A2CVMAN]

Hi, Thanks for the good video.

[@WhatAmIGonnaGet]

Lord have mercy - is that display read out for ANTS ? It needs to be at least 3 times bigger than that

[@lm9704]

Thanks a lot for this great tutorial. Can you show us how to insert a micro sd card (SPI interface - GNC, VCC, MISO, MOSI, SCK and CS) to save tracking points (wiring and changes in code)? Please, it would be a nice idea and put your project very very very complete - this is already very very complete :). Thanks again.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Luís Miguel Thanks for your comments. Adding a SD memory would be useful as a later update.

[@rover8772]

nice tutorials!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Robert V Thanks.

[@vadimzhikharev1243]

Very nice!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Vadim Zhikharev Thanks.

[@israeldurandominguez7739]

I do not understand why (sats) means what is?

[@coriscotupi]

It's the number of GPS satellites that are being used to calculate the position fix.

[@SajolKumarDas]

What happen if i change the GPS connection D3 and D4 to D2 and D3? And if i changed in the phogram?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

You would need to change the following line in the software: SoftwareSerial nss(3, 4); //set sotfware serial communications to arduino ports 3 and 4 (TX = 3 and RX = 4) to SoftwareSerial nss(2, 3);

[@SajolKumarDas]

thanks.

[@gerimauxjean-pierre1516]

Sajol Kumar Das u

[@MrWilliam932]

How can I adjust the gps time to my local time?

[@lucasfitzgerald1605]

+MrWilliam932 The time you receive from GPS is in UTC. I think you just need to add or subtract the hours you are ahead or behind UTC time.

[@yogeshitaliya473]

Nice one sir

[@robbyxp1]

Great Video.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks.

[@ChMuhammadImran]

Very nice.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks.

[@leonbecker7604]

Nice work Well

[@angbui4766]

thanks you!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thank you :)

[@erayavci5625]

Respect!

[@hanspijpers2100]

I also found you, how is london street nowadays ?? very god tutorial thanks

[@hanspijpers2100]

ment gOOd tutorial ofcourse sorry for the typo

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks Hans. London is very busy this time of year. Regards, Louis

[@lucasfitzgerald1605]

Cool, but now you may need to move. MI7 just got your location. haha.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Lucas Fitzgerald LOL checkout the other comments!!!!

[@Nine-009-p9c]

Hola machote, esto yo realizando uno muy parecido.

[@kerrytobias8753]

SCULLCOM is half Yellow and half blue GPS System looks ok then squashed text

[@kerryt9162]

The answer is to go into the SSD1306.h library and open the file with note pad o down about 70 lines or so until you see where the display settings are, you then select 128X64 the default was set to 128x32, that was the problem.