Scullcom Hobby Electronics #1 - IMAX B6AC genuine viz fake

[@but531]

You are a very cool guy , I like how ou speak, you speak slow and clear and I like this style of videos not many people speak and make videos like yours video. I appreciate your time you spend to teach us. I will put your video in my list with the favorite videos in youtube.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Panayiotis, Thanks for your nice comment. Regards, Louis

[@sargesilva6165]

@@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702 agree ..thanks

[@ReadyUpGo]

Finally! Someone who explains the basics of charging a battery with this unit so that even the most rank beginner (me) can understand it. Thank you so much. ! Best Regards.

[@AstroBananna]

Best review of anything I've ever seen on the tube. Thanks

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thank you.

[@rogergibbs2937]

definitely the best run through i have ever seen, slow, precise and informative and have subscribed

[@wishmun]

Agree! :-D

[@KL3NCH]

First rate video. Subscribed.

[@davidferguson8478]

Does this automatically stop charging batteries or do you have to this in the settings ?

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

I must say, that is a quite compleat explanation!! You are certainly more advanced in electronics knowledge than I am. The Calibration information is extremely useful as well. If you're still responding to this old Video, I could really use some help!! I just got a "fake" B6AC... I charged a 7.2V NiMH Battery perfectly. However the second time I used it was on a Lipo, my very first. (And I've been in the Hobby for over 37 years) I plugged the unit in, and connected my 2S Lipo Batry. I fumbled through the Menus, but couldn't get it started... I then unplugged and replugged it in. Now all I'm getting on the Display is 0.00v 0.00v, 0.00v 0.00v, 0.00v, 0.00v The Buttons do NOTHING. Turning it off and on, leads to the SAME Display and no working buttons! Did I do something?? Is there anything I can do to mend this? I hope you can help me.

[@cedrikkaurit3078]

Great comparison, very informative. I cannot however get the calibration button combo to work. My fake charger is one without the built in power supply, perhaps it does not have a calibration option. I did notice a misreading of the voltage and would like to calibrate it. I'm also wondering if it is worth upgrading some features to like of the genuine model, e.g swap to thicker cables, increase air flow vents size and other similar features, or leave it as is?

[@joyesmith44]

*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*

[@tnxmatze]

i want to mention that there are different versions of the fake out there. is far as i can see you have version 08 as you can read at the pcb. i have a version 1.50 with atmel chip and larger power supply that fills out the space, but there are also version 2.0 with nuvoton chips out there. mine works well after calibration but actually i trying the cheali charger fimware.

[@guacamoleman87]

I've been using a fake for years!!! Thanks for showing me how to calibrate it

[@dieselrotor]

Thank You for posting this. I bought a knock off and found the rate/voltage off from a known battery. I did not know I was able to calibrate (Had not read the instructions if it even states it in them) the unit. Knowing this I will now pull it from the box and begin using it too. Again, thank You.

[@fun_ghoul]

8:25 I don't even own a balance charger (yet), but appreciate that you don't just leave people who have knockoffs to twist in the wind. I'm sure many knew the risks, but couldn't afford a hundred bucks for a better unit (I'm especially thinking of those using e-bikes/scooters/boards/whatever as primary transportation) or received as a gift from someone who didn't see your vid! You're a gem.

[@fun_ghoul]

I'm not rushing to try this out by any means, but out of curiosity, do you think a knockoff like this one would benefit from the addition of a larger power supply, 2% tolerance resistors for current sensing and input supply fuse? The PSUs in both units seem to be repurposed laptop bricks, so...maybe upgrade the wee one to a 90W or 120W? In the same vein, should people just treat (unmodified) knockoff units as downrated and only use them at 2/3 or so of max amps? Cheers.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for the comment.

[@BellA-mf1ti]

I actually have a fake B6 charger, and it works pretty goddamn well for 2+ years, and the price is only 1/5 of the so called "genuine one", if the real one comes with a reasonable price, I am sure I would choose the genuine one. with that price I just think they are robbing people.

[@devinduncan6922]

Bell A ah, the real one price includes the service, the design, the certification for safety, etc. The fake includes a fake CE mark and means nothing. You helped steal the work done by the original company... so who is robbing who?

[@BellA-mf1ti]

Devin Duncan thanks for the reply, first of all, theologically you are right and I agree with you. but in real world , basicly the B6 design is openly available, pcb layout,companant,even some better third party firmwares, if I want,I could make one by myself, and the cost is still much lower than the original one. talkiing about service, if it works well as it supoosed to do, why should i bother to talk to the original company in the first palce, and there is no service at all, so I have to pay the servce they didn't even provide. or some bugfix they should do free. it hardly to image if mircosoft to charge each update patches , that would be ridiculous. BTW, the fake one did come with aftersale service as well.

[@BellA-mf1ti]

Devin Duncan sorry for the not-sounds-right answer, my point is dont be greedy, I am sure they have made a fair mount of money from the b6 charger, lower the price or put some more powerful products to market, other wise fake B6 will come to outsell in market like things now. thanks for your repaly .

[@stefano.a]

+Devin Duncan The "CE" mark in both versions is not written correctly. It is strange but it is the usual "china export" symbol in both the original and the copy version

[@fun_ghoul]

_"You helped steal the work done by the original company... so who is robbing who?"_ You might have a valid point if, y'know, every knockoff was sold direct from a Chinese seller to the end user. They aren't. Many people with names and skin complexions like yours and mine make millions off this shit. Duh.

[@saddamhossainnasim7605]

Modern youtube reviewers should learn from you how you review a product with such details and information Great job, Sir.

[@MixYourWay]

Hi! The lack of a fuse concerned me. Could we install one of our own? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!

[@michaelpotter8547]

I'm glad you didn't just say fake and toss it.. Nice review and setup even for the *cough* clone.

[@lookoutleo]

+Michael Potter yes ive used one of the fake chargers for a year now to charge everyday an 8amp 6s battery and it had done this perfectly , i havent changed calabration and does it fine

[@clintoncoker6]

Yeah, weird that he reviewed and calibrated the clone and not the real one...

[@RCWilliam123]

Clinton Coker you didn't pay attention. he calibrated the fake one and said the genuine was spot on. and then kept on the review with the real one. got it now?

[@famady]

No he continued the review with the fake one, wich has B6AC printed in white on it.

[@dkongul]

so buy the clone one, change 2 resistors(optional) and calibrate done deal. way cheaper than skyrc wants even if you can find one in stock. set maximum charge to 4.1 volts to improve battery life (long term) and prevent overcharging. and you can always cut a hole in to the case and add a fan which i will definitely do even with the original one.

[@aldograsso5872]

Hello, congratulations for the very interesting tutorial. I wanted to say that I made several attempts following your instructions to the letter for the calibration but, when I turn it on, the calibrate screen does not appear, the lipo charge screen appears. Did I do something wrong? Thank you

[@dhgmllcshea5038]

Excellent info, thank you Sir. One thing I would like to add: SkyRC sells a temperature sensor for ~$10 that you can strap to the battery & plug into these chargers to end the charge when it reaches the temperature that you set. This plugs into the temp sensor port. It can be a good way to control NiMh batteries from overheating in case the peak detect fails. It can also be strapped to your Lipo batteries as a safety backup shutoff if they get too warm. When using this sensor you have to change 2 settings in the menu: Toggle USB to temperature and set the cutoff temperature to something like 35 or 45°C. Mind Meet Maker covers the menu settings well on a Turnigy Accucell 6 . Same SkyRC sensor works there, too! kzbin.info/www/bejne/sIa6maB7eMx0bsk

[@jayk2k]

Hi , Couple of questions if that is ok 1, once it finishes charging and beeps , you have to turn if off manually or it carries on charging ? 2, Would you know if tablet and laptop batteries can be charged and tested on this ?

[@HardcoreMusik]

Is there a way to use an Power Supply to calibrate ? Tekpower TP3005 on Amazon (not my, but similar) I do not have a good multimeter. Or is there a other way? With an 7805...or is this too imprecise ?

[@Citroable]

+Captain DJ If you use your multimeter to measure the output voltage from the power supply, then yes, you can use it, but dont trust the voltage the power supply states.

[@mikebloodworth9258]

Hi, When one just does the discharge test, mine does not show the capacity of the battery at the end of the test when unit beeps. I tried left/right arrows but just took me to other settings. Am I doing something wrong?

[@hyzenthlay7151]

Did SkyRC make a previous version of this charger? I'm asking, because mine has the same lettering on the front as the fake one, but it has the SkyRC laser sticker on the back and came in the same box as the real...

[@SelkoFPV]

on the 17:00 minute of the video you can actualy pres enter and the LiPo text flashes,then you can change it to LiIo Life LiHv

[@gseccull489]

hello, unfortunately i did not know about fake chargers when i purchased my used charger. so what components would i have to change to make a fake one read the correct readings. also i have since found out that once it has been calibrated, you cannot get that calibration option back, have you found a way to get it back????? looking forward to your reply.

[@toneault7499]

hi.im hoping you can help..ive just seen this video. only to find i cannot do as you do .. ie it will not let me in to make changs . but when i set the program from lipo to liion the meter did not move so i put my avo in place to find the bat volts were 4.21.. but display is 4.10. and did not move.. you might like to try your self. atb tone.. p.s. i tryed on the two new chargers and my old one . both the same..on 1s

[@TheBeerBox80]

Great comparison video. It isn't worth buying a cheap charger to save $20 and risk burning your car or your house down. the "B6AC" is in white on the version 2.

[@LordKaos666]

Nice work! Can you tell me if it´s necessary to calibrate the original one? In version 2, the combination of buttons when powering on, takes to a "system is updating" message. Thanks!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

***** Thanks. The genuine SKYRC unit comes calibrated so is OK.

[@christianwehrenfennig4368]

Nice video. Thanks. Came across it troubleshooting my charger which shows discrepancies between (a) current reading and the corresponding rate of increase of the capacity reading and (b) current reading on the charger and on my multimeter by a factor of 2 (!). This is when using a discharge program. Initially, I hadn't even considered that the unit could be fake, because I didn't realise how common this was. But having seen this video and others on the same topic, it was instantly clear. I then opened the unit up and couldn't believe my eyes when I saw that the case of the AC adaptor was cut open to be able to get the wires out. All in all, the thing mostly works for charging and balancing, but the large discrepancy on the current reading makes me a bit uneasy about the safety of the thing...

[@jayk2k]

What are the small white connector on the side , for balance charging , called ?

[@abdulben9304]

hi thanks for the video. I am having garage and i want to add hybrid service . So, what is the best hybrid charger do you think in the market for Nihm batteries (Toyota&Honda). I would love to hear from you thanks

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Abdulafah, I have not had the need to use a hybrid battery charger but you could check out the following link it may help hybridautomotive.com

[@rjasontwenty1099]

so you can actually use the fake charger to charge your airsoft batteries, and it's safe to do so?

[@mohamadiqbalalaziz5434]

Hello prof, can you tell me the imax can modif for fature mode motor brush? Break in.. same like thunder machine or antimatter

[@bds6920]

thanks-bought the cheap b6-it did not last more than three charges and started acting up-have an original b6ac on the way-ur vid taught us a lot-thanks

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+BDS Glad to hear it was of some help.

[@magicmaui77]

Thank you for the callibration tip - also works on my Hype-RC knockoff. How ever.. I've noticed if you callibrate at 5v f.e. it's way off at 12v and vice versa. Not good if you charge batteries with different voltages like I do ..

[@Sparkeater]

Hi, thankyou so much for this detailed teardown. it prompted me to do more research, the multiplexer that sends the voltages to the atmega is very often faulty (amongst the other things that can be faulty with the clone) But: if you can replace that, it gets A LOT closer to reading the actual voltages, and ideally, eliminate the overcharging problem. it's a 4051 multiplexer. it's under the screen. I hope someone can figure this out without pictures.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Sparkeater Thanks for you comments.

[@johngibson7447]

Hi, you've described the difference between the two chargers but how do you know which is the fake,maybe the fake is the better one ?

[@lukasostar3008]

so, is the knockoff a good charger? should i go for it? i'm currently unable to source the real thing... also, i'm assuming this is 'smart enough to leave charging safely overgnight? thanks

[@Asvybre]

Great video! Incredible differences that sure make a difference. One thing I would change is the 18650 you're using for calibration, that one is fake since 18650 can only go to 3600mah due to chemestry and material constraints. I would you a well know name brand and quality cell.

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

I also noticed the smaller electroytic capacitors. But what is the difference in price between the two?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Seegal Galguntijak In my case the difference in price was only about 20% more for the genuine one. Look for the SKYRC silver label on the base of the unit.

[@lutsifer5847]

How to calibrate the balancer? The second cell constantly shows too high a voltage, no matter which battery I connect.

[@paulgriffiths3613]

Hi,I calibrated the (fake)unit as you described.My battery is a 4 cell,2200mAh,14.8v.I have inputted all the correct values,but when I try to charge the battery,i get warning beeps and the message,Low Voltage.What should I do?Thanks in advance.

[@MikeGrayM70]

Didn't know this unit could be calibrated. Thanks!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Glad it was of help.

[@Smedleydog1]

I would imagine the white stuff you call heat sink sealant is probably just paste to keep the smaller power supply from sliding. I took my fake charger apart and it had the larger power supply and no paste on it. (I didn't check the resistors you pointed out) This was a good video to watch. Evidently the clones (fakes) vary on components used to build them, so if you buy one, it is probably a good idea to test it before turning it loose on your batteries.

[@darkknight145]

You mentioned the smaller power supply, but one thing you didn't mention is that it also has a lower power rating. It you try to charge at the full 80 watts the power supply will eventually cook .

[@jackiedines5229]

I have two of these, had no idea they were fake! I cannot get either of mine to go into calibration mode, any help would be appreciated.

[@dinos-sphere]

Thank you! Very informative! Well explained and simple so anyone can understand. I’m glad I got the original...

[@davidwatson7329]

Hi there.. Don't know much about batteries chargers etc, but my son has a xtar vc4 and was hoping this type of charger may be better for him, what's your opinion on this, batteries are for his 9v drill etc (converted) and random batteries he has floating around e place ...?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

These type of chargers are really aimed at balance charging of multiply cells. This requires the multi-cell battery to have a balancing lead in addition to the normal two connection leads. So if your 9 volt battery also has a balancing lead this this charger is just fine. If your battery simply has only two leads (+ & -) then there may be cheaper options for you or you could try build your own at low cost.

[@thegusk520]

When you were setting your voltage wouldn't it have made more sense to go a tad higher than +15? I'm just guessing but 4.17V would come in at ~ +20. So maybe a better setting to save would be ~ + 17-19. Basically just one click down from the 4.17V reading

[@Theogus45]

Which one should ı buy IMAX B6 mini or IMAX B6 V2?

[@DJBBBOSS]

thank you for such a well explained video. Very clear indeed. I didn't even realise that these chargers are a copy/fake of the real brand and now you have explained the errors with the copy version I have decided to spend some extra money and buy the real branded version. The copy/fake/clone what ever you like to call it defeats the whole reason for spending out on a professional charger and no longer using the cheap chargers that come with these rc models.... Even though the branded one costs almost twice the price I would sooner pay out and know the build and safety is far better..... Thanks again, Regards Steve

[@luisfj9]

between the real charger in the fake charger, how long can these two chargers can last before they have to be replaced? At some point these two Chargers will no longer be able to balance the batteries out properly?

[@chrisellison7720]

The mostly surface mounted components used have a pretty good lifespan providing they're not abused. Avoid running it flat out and you might get 15 - 20 years, say 10 years to be on the safe side. Mine's 7 years old and still working safely within it's original specifications and tolerances.

[@tdcentral3466]

Hi Louis, first thank you! I just bought one and tried the calibration, the display shows differently with 6 values at 0. Are you familiar with calibrating in this case?

[@johncoops6897]

You are referring to the genuine SkyRC charger, or a clone? In the SkyRC models, search online for SkyRC News Blog titled "[Update Notice] B6AC/ B6mini Calibration]" to find the new firmware v1.14 (for old models) and the calibration instructions.

[@cscentoamore1]

boa noite, amigo! parabens pelo video, sou brasileiro, muita coisa eu compreendi porem algumas não, minha duvida é a seguinte : o funcionamento do IMAX B6AC fake é semelhante ao original ou nao é confiavel? obrigado

[@Albanus35]

Thanks! That really helped me to choose before buy it. I'm buying a V2 version which is an genuine SkyRC one!

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+Albanus35 Glad it was of some help.

[@prckata]

+Albanus35 give link for buying

[@piecetoyou8285]

Hi Sir Thank you for showing the difference, please read below as I surely could do with your help. Or anyone reading this, Now in my 50s I gave up the cigarettes. I moved on to vaping that use different type of materials in their torch 18650 batteries. and 21700 and 20700 batteries, etc I bought SKYRC B6 and the SKYRC B6V2 charger and discharge to test my batteries but never got my head around the chemical make up on my batteries as I don't want to set skyrc on the wrong setting for the type of battery, I at the moment use a vape so the batteries are shown below, as I do not understand the chemical symbols and not sure if they are or lithium or lithium lipo or lithium ion I struggle to know what to set the device to, and I really need help please Molicel LI-ION 18650 P28A 3.7v What setting symbol on the SKYRC B6 OR B6V2 Would i set it to. Molicel INR 21700- P42A what setting symbol would I set it to, Vapes NCR 20700 3.7v I here ICR is lithium but why don`t it says lithium on the battery, Help please,

[@cmj20002]

The capacitors on the genuine look larger.

[@FM-fn7eo]

can I charge 2s or 3s or 6s of 18650 if I connect only + and - wires , without balance wires ?

[@tinkeringlabplus2516]

Very good tutorial. The calibration was well explained.

[@burhandarwish9247]

I 2nd that. Good on you mate , at last somebody covers what you really want to know. Straight to the point knowledge without all the crap. Thank you

[@dparham]

i just bought the SKYRC B6AC V2 and it powers up then powers off... if I let it sit awhile it powers up and works for a few minutes then powers off... I'm suspecting a bad power supply... but while Im checking... can I use the DC plug to a deep cycle 12v /60amh gel battery for a wheelchair?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

As the SKYRC B6AC V2 has a DC input jack you can supply it with an external 12volt source. . Your deep cycle 12v /60amh gel battery for a wheelchair should be just fine but would recommend added a fuse in series with it (say 6 amp).

[@dparham]

ok thanks! I'm now just looking for batteries lol i have a few and I ended up returning that charger as they were willing on sending out a replacement asap and the new one is working great! but Im glad to know I can hook up to battery :D I thought it would be ok but just making sure!

[@FrustratedBaboon]

Just bought mine and it does not match either of your boxes. It does not have gold printing and it does however have an authentic sticker on bottom. It did say it was not fake on Amazon. It works like a charm and I am not going to open it. :-). Thank you for bringing this to everyone's attention. I think the company just changed their printing that's all.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

+FrustratedBaboon Thanks for your information. Genuine ones should have a authentic sticker on bottom. There are may fake ones out there some of which are better than others. If you are happy with it and it works OK then that's fine.

[@70xke]

Hi Louis I have just bought a genuine B6AC version 2 and am running it together with a PC. I found your explanations very illuminating. The instruction book leaves much unsaid and I would like your insights. I am charging a new 10 cell NiMH battery stack and note that about every 30 seconds the current drops to zero, whilst the voltage stays high. I assume this is a sampling operation of some sort. Do you agree? During a 2 hour charge, this sampling occurred for about 45 minutes, then did not until three samples at about 70 minutes in and finally 12 samples at the end. This looks like normal behaviour but I have seen no comments anywhere Secondly a DVM across the battery during the charging process does not read correctly at all and fluctuates. Using my trusty AVO 8 does give a correct reading. Interesting. Thirdly the whole business of cycling and charge/discharge is not covered well in the book and I am confused. In charge mode there is a More setting to choose cycle count and "R_ PeakCount". Peak count I understand but what is the cycling referred to. A complete discharge and recharge perhaps. Thanks for your time Bruce M

[@av6966]

Hope this don't explode with that tiny PSU will have to devise a case for charging things in my room, thanks for showing me how to calibrate it!!

[@jamesandonian7829]

I bought a fake one and I don't regret it!

[@jamesandonian7829]

I bought the one w/o the built in power supply. I'm powering it using my bench top variable power supply. set it to 12.000v @ 5.000amps

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for the comment.

[@WarthogARJ]

Thanks: good video. I have a fake, bought from Ballistic Performance Components and they added their own sticker to the front. But mine is fake: obvious from your video. It doesn't charge a 4S L-Fe battery: the charging cuts out at 3.25v/cell, instead of 3.7v as claimed. So I only get it to about 20% capacity. Any ideas if it is possible to change the settings? Like I see you can calibrate it: that's not in the manual I got, nor the manual from the MAX B6AC. So maybe there are more "hidden" functions. Thanks for the video.

[@seeindarkness]

you should change the title of the video to add "And calibration". The video was very useful

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comment.

[@bobanofat2585]

great video. calibrated my charger. actually surprised to find mine was fake as this charger was bought in a walk in store I presumed sold the genuine article.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks. There are a lot of fake ones about but they still in the main work quite well if calibrated.

[@richardcorfield9926]

The software looks like the Hobbyking. I wonder if the charge circuitry is commonly used.

[@vicc6744]

does the "real" unit come with battery plugs?

[@griml0gic420]

If you calibrate the fake and replace the current sense resistors with high precision ones could you make them somewhat decent?

[@Robert.K]

I'm also wondering if this is possible.

[@vedasticks]

theres a post on rc groups about doing this on an Imax B6, not sure if its the AC version or the non ac version, but they repalced a bunch of resistors with 0.1% ones to greatly increase the precision, in both normal lipo charging and balance charging. the balance charging was particularly bad before with each cell having quite different voltages.

[@jameslinden6304]

My clone came with precision resistors from the factory. Maybe the first batch weren't, but I guess they made the adjustment.

[@fabts4]

+vedasticks Thanks

[@vedasticks]

James Linden maybe they have improved them i havnt opened mine up yet

[@kenoath007]

Thanks so much, very helpful! Even more so now that I realize I purchased the fake totally unaware they existed. I'll follow your instructions and calibrate and test if it's rubbish I'll try and get my money back.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Ken Oath Glad it was of some help.

[@smeemcgee8414]

tried to do the calibrate thing like you did but it does not come up have a knock off

[@juancarlosoanelli9626]

someone can have an answer with this charger. will use again after a while of having it saved and I find the surprise that does not want to charge more than any battery, the problem is not to read the resistances. Have not found bats, there is no Asian bat meter, read the voltage and the cells but not the resistance, this problem or any question?

[@russ.tech2you]

G'day, could you use that to charge an 18 volt drill battery?

[@CodeMasterCody88]

Russ Hicks 5s yes

[@richpaul8132]

BTW, When you were demonstrating the single cell 18650 battery, I noticed that it was a 3.7V and 5000mAh battery yet you chose 1.0 A setting. Why didn't you select 5.0 A charging rate? The way I understand it, matching the charging rate with the mAh of the battery will charge it faster. However, the faster you charge it, the less the battery's lifetime will be, is that right? Thanks, Rich

[@FilipMunk]

some batteris can't charge at the same capacity as they have, you need to see the datasheet on that exact battery you have. it's not just the chemistry name of the battery that determines the specs. if that was any help

[@exgenica]

Rich Paul said, "...the faster you charge it, the less the battery's lifetime will be, is that right?" In general, yes you are right. Faster charging puts more stress on the cell(s) usually in the form of heat. However, the real-life impact depends on multiple factors and can vary a lot and so the actual impact on lifetime MAY not be significant for a given set of cells and cooling while charging and so on. Also, you don't want to store the cell(s) fully charged as that WILL degrade the cell(s). You should also put stored Lithium cells through a charge/discharge/charge-to-storage cycle every few months. You'll note the B6 has a "Storage" mode which will discharge a cell(s) to some percentage of its fully charged voltage. If I remember correctly, the folks at batteryuniversity.com think a good storage voltage is around 60-80% of full charge so for a 3.7V (max charge 4.2V) cell, a good storage voltage would be 70% or 0.7x4.2V or ABOUT 2.9V. I forget to what voltage my B6 takes a 4.2V cell for storage. Read the info at batteryuniversity for more details.

[@KESLaser]

I have 2 of these! one I can calibrate the other I cannot,the one that does not calibrate has the Internal resistance function, the one I can calibrate does not have that function?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comments. I have found there are many variants of these clone chargers.

[@ricoeltico1]

spot on. Simple explanation on how to use a b6 snide charger. Thankyou. (BRAVO)

[@bingo475]

At 8:56, have you tested that fake blue 5,000 mAh battery to see what its true capacity is? I opened up one just like it from eBay to see what was inside and it had a very thin layer of lithium, leading me to believe the true capacity is well under 1,000 mAh.

[@jmpaq51]

Many thanks for an excellent review. I purchased a bunch of 20Vmax battery packs (5 cells)for which I can't find a charger. The pack has B1,B2,B3,B4 connectors on it. Can you show us (or provide a link) that shows how to connect the balance cable leads to such a pack. I have a picture if needed.

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi Jean-Marc, Battery packs usually have a separate balance cable with a plug which simply plugs in to one of the JST-XH ports on the charger. Checkout the following KZbin video by RCModelReviews: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXrFeX-XmNStfNE Download the full user manual for this charger from: www.pololu.com/file/download/iMAXB6ACmanual.pdf?file_id=0J525 Also have a look at: www.dronetrest.com/t/everything-you-need-to-know-about-lipo-battery-chargers/1326 Regards, Louis

[@darkkevind]

What an amazing and informative video! Thanks so much. Can you tell me please? Can you calibrate with a battery that's not fully charged as long as you know it's voltage obtained through a multimeter?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for your comment. Yes you can do what you suggest the important think is that you know the voltage.

[@johncoops6897]

Yes, but what is most important is that you calibrate using a battery pack of about the same total voltage as what you will normally charge. The fake IMAX is not very linear, so even if perfect calibration at 12V, it won't be accurate at lower or higher voltages.

[@deelan_]

Can I also use a clean 5v Power supply for Calibration? I have one of these Fakes too..

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

You usually calibrate to a know good fully charged LiPo single cell battery.

[@richpaul8132]

I guess this is an old video because I do have an original SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2, which has white print for the "B6AC" but also has the Laser sticker and though I didn't watch the entire video, I'm sure the differences I have are not only because this is an older video (hence, the company probably changed a few things), but also because the one I have is a "V2" model. I just got mine and I'm just about to ship the thing back because the LiPo 7.4V 27000mAh 10C 20Wh batteries that I have require an EC2 mating connector. The B6AC V2 has a blue connector that, in the ad, looked exactly like what I needed to apply to my batteries. Then I get the B6AC V2 and find that the blue connector that appeared to be the EC2 mating connector, was far too big. In fact, I don't know what that larger connector goes to because I don't see any batteries that have that size. Now I need to rig the thing with clips until I can either get some mating connectors or send this back, (which ever comes first). FWIW

[@josephgraham1065]

Hello I wish I would have watched this before I ordered the fake one... But thanks for showing me how to calibrate it. Hopefully once calibrated it will work well. Very good video thanks for taking the time.

[@stevec2196]

The calibration doesn't work as shown. If I hold down the 2 buttons and turn it on all that happens is that it starts to decrement the current when it come on.

[@masterchief416]

Same

[@mascardoliveira]

Mine too. But it's alright. Good review ever.

My (genuine) one goes into "system update please wait.." mode instead....

[@snowphrall2116]

Hello, what is the voltaje out and current of the power suppply of the original??

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

The power pack is 12V at 5 Amp.

[@snowphrall2116]

Thanks!!

[@richardnanis]

Can you set the desired end-charging voltage for Li-ion as you want, e.g. 4.1V instead of 4.2V ?

[@ValleyRC]

Yes, it has a separate li-ion mode for older 4.1v cells.

[@rickyfoster7912]

Are the ones with pc output the real ones the ones that are able to connect to pc to view the the data?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

There is such a wide range out there so hard to tell. However, some of the copy units are still reasonably well built and do function OK in most cases. Regards, Louis

[@davidsai]

hello i have a skyrc e6680 and it works prfectly with the 12 v car battery imput, but with 120 ac plug in, it starts and dies like a discharging capacitor . tlike it does not latch with the power suplly. would you know whats happneing. its same as imax b6 i believe thanks from colombia

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

I am not familiar with this charger but I think it is now obsolete. If you have issues when connected to 120 AC then the problem is likely to be in the power supply module in the unit. Sounds like the DC supply in the unit the voltage is low or dropping. Check the power supply input circuitry, and the DC supply to the rest of the charger unit (may be a leaky capacitor or diode).

[@johnbee1574]

very good review, interesting side note some of the later copies did away with the calibration function something I thought was essential to have

[@carlosclaptrix]

Thanks for the good explanation!

[@fookutube501]

I got a fake one 4 years because it was cheap..I still use it now.Only problem i had with it was a lose soldering on the power point,but beside that its been pretty good..I wouldnt call it fake,i prefer to say "a knock off" because it still work..

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Thanks for you comment. As you say the fake ones are still OK but just need to what out for the power build quality.

[@Cornz38]

I do like your videos but may i suggest a trip to specsavers if you consider those boxes to be "very similar". Apart from being made of cardboard, they are nothing like similar.

[@david.spitfire]

Hello dear spanish friend from Spain I was delighted to have your video about calibrating the imax copy I wanted to ask you a question I have the original max imaxb6 from the sky brand. It is also necessary to calibrate it as you did with the copy thanks a cordial greeting

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Hi David, If you have a original SKYRC iMAX B6 it should already be calibrated. So you would NOT normally need to calibrate it. Regards, Louis

[@david.spitfire]

Thank you very much for your very kind reply a cordial greeting from spain from carchuna

[@volcomjk3800]

Hello. I have a question. I just got my IMAX B6AC and recognized that it is a Fake. Now i'd like to know if i can use it nevertheless? Or is it to dangerous, could it catch fire someday?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

Yes you should be able to use it. They are all made in China even the original ones. The main difference is the build quality and may be calibration. With all equipment like this you should not leave it in attended when using it.

[@volcomjk3800]

Thank you for your quick response!

[@DarkAlaranth]

Just got some fakes recently, they have definately changed the build quality. Not for the better I'm afraid, the wires from the PSU are now smaller than in this one, and the heatsink goop on the pSU is replaced by a thin double sided tape. The front buttons aren't glued on any more, just friction fit, and I found the "updated?" firmware now locks up on the charged capacity cuttof, with one unit not even stopping the charge! These units might be useful if decent firmware can be applied to these units of mine. (My units advertise 80W capability too BTW...)

[@franklee90]

Hi about charging batt. That batt is Li-ion not a LiPo. I guess that Charger consider they are the same for charging ??

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

The charging requirements are basically the same for both types.

[@franklee90]

Ok thanks

[@robertedwards7695]

Great info , I wish I had of checked this vid out before I purchased my imax. Yes I bought the fake 1,It will be going in the recycling bin . And i will purchase the real thing.

[@micheals1992]

I tried this method to calibrate my fake charger and it seems to have bricked the unit, when you switch it on now the controls don't work and it instantly runs a discharge cycle on a 1s lipo, I tried to connect a 1s lipo to see if I could cancel and fix the glitch but it just says "overvoltage" and freezes on that screen instead of "connection break"

[@kojelautakamera4013]

Thanks for this review. You could add labels GENUINE and FAKE so it would be easier to follow.

[@JoshuaWhiteSierra973]

@Scullcom Hobby Electronics, When discharging of a single battery is complete how do I know how many miliamps its capicity was?

[@scullcomhobbyelectronics1702]

The information is displayed on the LCD.

[@p.v.jayaprakash4494]

Informative, nice. Sometimes 3 cells in parallel does not detect . Any info on that.