Secret Garage/Tunnel Update #6 FLOODED!!

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#colinfurze #tunnel #secret #update

[@2MuchColinFurze]

So in the freak storms of November water had got in more places than first imagined. Its starting to feel like a room now rather than a steel box, hopefully wont be to long till we start to dig a bit more out. SO SORRY this was late but we got there in the end. Subscribe if you haven't as nearly a Million Secret Garage fans.

[@professormastermind1607]

can there be a short peace of clear epoxy wal so you can still se soil😊

[@sampfrost]

don’t suppose you’re in the market for a secret swimming pool/canal are you?

[@2MuchColinFurze]

@@professormastermind1607 i'm looking into this but i think it will condensate etc on the rock side.

[@iztoktrebusak4269]

As a certified electrician I’m giving a fine for cleaning the wire bits

[@RatioPlease]

We 1 hour long video

[@northeastoutrider2124]

Colin. You really need to add a sump hole to the underground garage design with corrugated pipe around the remainder of the walls to allow any water a path to a location when it can be managed. Collecting any water that comes in at a level lower than the steal base will allow you to add an automated ejector pump to keep the space dry.

[@kiwifarmer8828]

Hope he sees this, because this sounds like good advice.

[@user-qb8nt9if6j]

Yeah, this is usual way of dealing with water ingress in underground workings

[@williammuseler5542]

Also, add in a de-humidifier. Takes care of condensation and will dry up rain leakage as well

[@DutchDread]

I know absolutely nothing of construction but this sounds exactly like what I was thinking about while watching this XD

[@goblinking4995]

It won't work cuz he concrete it their no low point

[@mitchellclark4377]

"A mop is conceding I've had a flood. Whereas this is merely... a spillage." Love the attitude there.

[@Dwigt_Rortugal]

I wish I had that kind of optimism! Whenever I find water where it ought not to be, it's a sinking feeling and fearing the worst.

[@mashrien]

4:22 As a former elechicken- Yes. That is the *_ultimate_* earth/ground for electrical lol Though I would still run a proper ground rod, even deeper, just to ensure the metal box you're in doesn't end up holding/running a charge and biting you.

[@JJFX-]

Once an electric chicken, always an electric chicken is what I say.

[@echota23]

I wouldn't want to be in there during a lightning storm.

[@SeanBlader]

@@echota23 You mean like a chainmail suit getting struck by lightning? kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqLam2iYdqh-mLc

[@spiritburners]

perfect faraday cage...... @@echota23

[@HighTreason610]

I almost wonder if no ground would be fine anyway. If the structure became live, then it would be live _relative to_ ground, but so long as you were inside it, there'd be no potential between you and the structure, as you'd be unable to touch anything else. Suppose I'm thinking along the lines of birds standing on power cables or people standing in Farrady cages. You can only get bitten if power flows through you and in such cases, it can't. Of course, in the case of the bunker, you might take a hit when entering or exiting if you touched something else in the process. People too often think of 'ground' as zero volts being an absolute, when in reality, all of these things are relative. Even the ground itself can have potential relative to ground elsewhere - sometimes experienced by getting a zap from garden tools on a long extension cord. I seem to recall this being a part of why those tend to favor running only two core cable instead of carrying 'mains ground' on the wire.

[@sbkpeace.24]

"To all the electricians, look"😆 (Sweeping up)😂😂

[@damedavidfrith55]

A sparky cleaning up a miracle 😂

[@PhilUKNet]

Made me laugh. I had some wiring work done last week and straight away had to sweep up little pieces of copper wire and plastic insulation. This was in Thailand, so it must be a global trait with electricians.

[@redwitch12]

@@PhilUKNet I think tiny bits of copper wire and plastic insulation is like the universal electrician equivalent of dandruff. It just spontaneously generates from them somehow. :D

[@theedgeisneverdull]

Laborer sweep 😂😂 just kidding I build ski lifts I love my laborers. I clean up and vacuum. Keep the laborers short of work and unemployed i do. Skilled wages only on my projects.

[@ThisChaoticKnight]

Made me laugh more than it should 😂 I cleaned up after one just last week at work, because ofc I had to lol

[@JerryRigEverything]

**takes notes**

[@sixthgreeny1880]

I keep forgetting to watch your stuff aswell

[@thomasfloyd6714]

You're both going to make an elevator soonish, colin for car you for human. Itll be interesting to see the differences

[@zarmambi]

Between Jerryrigs bunker videos and Colin's I am one satisfied subscriber

[@gc6528]

Jerry

[@WolvenSCP]

Same@@zarmambi

[@samlong3000]

You should definitely treat the wet areas with some disinfectant to kill any possibilities of mold growth once you get mold spores growing in a confined space like that it will be a nightmare in the future when humidity rises. Also running an ozone machine will kill any mold spores. And You should invest in a battery-operated Shop-Vac it makes little water messes like that go very easy. Great work on the videos.

[@Coolcarting]

No

[@861LJ]

I was going to mention a shop vac, too. Make life a bit easier and quicker clean up.

[@calebs4887]

I would recommend against the ozone machine, due to all of the safety risks that go along with it.

[@Coolcarting]

@@calebs4887 What are those safety risks?

[@zerumsum1640]

ozone basically will eat away at the lining of your lungs.@@Coolcarting

[@homeservicenews]

Dear Colin. May I tell you what I have learned about cellars and tunnels? 1) Never put anything directly on the floor! Raise it al least 1ft or put it into a sealed plastic container. 2) Do it like a submarine and separate the rooms and add a water barrier between them so water cannot creep from one room to the other. 3) You even might seal each iron bar rectangle on the floor and protect its filling from rot. 4) Why not add some sensors for each room? Detecting temperature, humidity and water would be nice. This will notify you so you can react when things get bad. 5) Maybe you even add pumps that can counter a water breach as a fun project (and connect them with the sensors). It surely is over-engineered but when you even have pressure tubes that should be easy. 6) Paint everything. Use paint even as a sealer. Keep it up! I'm digging it. :D

[@malcolmmuehlhausen7458]

can you say it in meters

[@natheyshiro4119]

@@malcolmmuehlhausen7458 30cm

[@lubuwei9314]

@mmuehlhausen74581foot = 33 cm

[@viloinvictus]

@@malcolmmuehlhausen7458 No, sorry. We use real measurements.

[@maevesmith2431]

@@viloinvictusYou're very right, the measure of someone's foot from 20 years ago that got randomly divided in 12 is a much better measurement than a fraction of the longitudinal lines of the globe, who the hell makes a measurement based off the world when we could base it off a person's FOOT? Stop kidding around, as an American, imperial has always been an absurd unit of measurement that's hard to convert between sizes.

[@mattiasknight-hagelberg1441]

hey colin, hope you now have planned for a proper bulkhead door, how's your fire suppression happening? choke it out? there is quite a lot of wood, carpet, insulation that would give plenty of nasty consequences + if spred... a pump well with an oil separation system. just considering you plan to keep cars and inventions down there... love the project

[@poofpoof9940]

even after years of watching you dig holes and weld steel, this is still by far my favorite upload of any week! never stop being you colin!

[@TheWtfnonamez]

Its just a shame that everyone downvotes the criticism mate. On this project he has made some horrific mistakes regarding water and the metal prefab, but every time anyone tries to warn him they get downvoted to oblivion. Love his channel but he will be pouring concrete into this thing in a few years because it will completely rust out.

[@blackkissi]

I have a whole bunch of videos from my subscription feed added to my "watch later" playlist. But this video immediately got bumped to the top. This is one of the videos that I get exited when seeing a new video in my feed :)

[@marionbloom1218]

And when the metal rusts out, he'll be left with the reinforced concrete box. No problem. @@TheWtfnonamez

[@DanteYewToob]

Colin, for your future peace of mind look into installing some moisture alarms in the floors. That way you can catch it early and potentially prevent any damage and understand immediately where it’s coming from. I live in FL and use the small battery powered ones so I know if my garage is flooding. It’s nice to not have to guess or worry and have an immediate alert whenever something happens instead of finding out when your tools are ruined or your stuff is all moldy/rusty…

[@sterlingmullett6942]

I was thinking the same thing. A sensor every ten feet (3 meters) would be useful, or in key areas, so, as you say, he could catch it early. With the efforts he's put into this build may need to up the thinking for long term maintenance issues.

[@JustAGuy1979]

Using your air compressor could you use the air to dry the sub-floor instead of having to pull everything up?

[@davidelliott5843]

For the small extra cost a sump and bilge pump would be wise.

[@davidelliott5843]

@@JustAGuy1979Or even wet vac it dry.

[@blacky05hotmail]

If you ever sell your house, please just plasterboard over the hidden rooms/basements/tunnels and let some future owner discover your hidden labyrinth.

[@DannyAckers]

Furzey! That water under the floor, get some of them smart home water sensors and put them at different points along the sub floor, then watch when they get triggered - it’ll tell you where the water is coming from and when the water is building up without you taking ye olde floor up! 💃

[@_aullik]

no need for the smart home ones. They usually are more annoying than they are worth and cost many as much as the non smart ones. Just take a regular one for $5 a piece and set yourself a remind in your calendar to check the batteries in 5 years time. If they go off you hear them.

[@Patrickitron]

Great Idea. It will also drive you nuts because they work really well and trigger at the smallest little drop of water...under your dishwasher, for example, or in your underground tunnel if you have one.

[@TheRavenCoder]

​@@PatrickitronIf you get a float switch like they use for sump alarms, that should be a non-issue. They will only trigger it there's standing water of a certain height.

[@itisjustacomment]

Sensor to a pump would be perfect .

[@hunglikeadonkeybutnotassmelly]

Or just do it right and hard wire an intruder panel with water sensors. fit and forget.

[@GoodwillCriminalsOfDallas]

Two things I would recommend to do at this point. One, set a pair of leak detector discs under the floor for future problem detection. Secondly, I would add a sump pump just inside the doorway. to the garage area. You should close or caulk the doorway into the tunnel into the garage. the pump will then catch any future influx of water. I hope you used marine-grade lumber for that floor. It will take water dripping in.

[@wobblysauce]

Segmented isolation, works a treat.

[@zyeborm]

I would be putting water detectors spread liberally around the place next time the floor is up. In 5 years time when there's a pinhole somewhere it'd be great to find it after a week than after a year.

[@fredericgrahn8348]

I recommend you source a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, to save on the paper tovels. You also might consider a Munthers adsorption de-humidifier which is simply the best for your type of application i.e your bunker

[@JonathanRichardsonMA]

Yes! I was looking for someone else with this thought. They’re brilliant. Water sensors from Ring are great, too.

[@dogefort8410]

"Dry" part of a wet/dry shop vac is good for getting rid of wire cuttings and mining leftovers as welll

[@eDoc2020]

It should be pretty easy to make a DIY wet vac. Just make two holes in the lid of a (somewhat) airtight bucket. Put the hose of a normal vacuum cleaner on one hole (do NOT stick it more than an inch into the hole) and put a second hose in the first hole. Seal the air gaps and tada. Just be sure to stop vacuuming liquid before the level in the bucket reaches the main vacuum's pickup.

[@bengrogan9710]

As a point on the risk of flooding in the tunnel Colin - I'd suggest where the car lift is going to be, or possibly by the entrance to the tunnel - add a 0.25x 0.25m x sump pit Maybe a small gutter trench across the tunnel entrance with a mesh border, falling off to the sump pit? You can then fit something like a Karcher submerible pump that has a built in float switch, and have it plumbed out to the drains It would give a perminant and easy to check solution

[@jeremy8189]

The amount of knowledgeable people in your comments section regardless of the problem your facing is mind blowing. So many incredibly smart and capable people all gathered to watch you and even lend some insight when they see a chance. So cool.

[@AdamMclardy]

It’s because it’s exactly the kinda content us makers love

[@Melmaster3]

Collin is the best substitute when we aren’t working on something of our own :P

[@Naesil89]

@@AdamMclardy Not only that, I think lots of people are also like me, working in a office in technical field, and watching someone actually doing something is interesting when all you do yourself is design shit on your computer and machine somewhere then manufactures it.

[@richw8342]

You suck

[@EternamDoov]

you're*

[@fordtrknut]

Colin, Cheap insurance would be to put a ground water sump pit in the corner somewhere out of the way. A automatic float switch turns it on if there's water intrusion in the tunnel. You might never need it, but if you did it would be there. Love the tunnel series, keep up the great videos! Wayne in USA

[@Vazzini42]

With battery backup. 100% agree.

[@engineeronabicycle178]

bridge engineer here: I agree completely, we often use Remondis pumps. They are in 's-Hertogenbosch, NL

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

This is a really good idea, especially since there is no connection to the sewer like a basement would have for water to drain.

[@purplekrizoffschannel2015]

i was thinking of a low point with a float switch too

[@saltmine]

I was about to suggest something similair but you beat me to it! great suggestion!

[@brianjohnstone2922]

i love the fact you are one of our own colin,by that i mean an eccentric brit. i mean that in the nicest possible sense too,can i assume this will be your forever home after the insane amount of work you have put in to this project,even so i would imagine it would add a lot to your house value...big fan,love the channel. keep up the cool content

[@tylergaming3622]

You should leave and exposed area (but with a 4 foot wall going below the opening) exposed with dirt and have some plants and a grow light. Maybe get some snake grass as well. It is one of the most efficient plants for making oxygen. It will help keep the air fresh.

[@nostolthegreat]

As a Carpenter, I REALLY APPRECIATE you chirping Sparkies whilst sweeping up wire trim. THANK YOU!!!!

[@balazsszalay6486]

Sparky here, i just looked away, it wars terrible

[@Addy_033]

Why is it that no one ever appreciates when we leave Bombay mix for them 🤷🏼

[@joeryan231]

An old bloke I worked with used to say it was beneath him (to clean up) which would be ironic considering the location

[@paulgrieger8182]

You had me at "chirping sparkies."

[@pahvalrehljkov]

as an electrician, your tunnel is also a perfect conduit for electricity. since this is underground and could get flooded, you should have raised those outlets. also, use boxes for outlets that have rubber gasket around it, with ip65 protection. all cables that are showing need to be protected with plastic pipes, there are bendy and stiff ones (english is not my first language so i dont know technical terms for it), because if object falls on it it may touch the metal and then youll have a human sized electrical bug lamp instead tunnel. you should put flood sensors around your tunnel, they are basically 2 metal rods that get short circuited when they get in contact with water, and some hub or something that will collect all their data.

[@TheAttacker732]

The English words you're looking for might be 'flexible' & 'rigid'.

[@bavarianmonkey8326]

Or simply use RCDs...

[@Max_Chooch]

To be fair, bendy and stiff mean the exact same thing as flexible and rigid, so you do know the right words and you did use them correctly.

[@andrewstones2921]

I’m not an electrician and have no qualifications in building trades, but even questioned the logic of having the electrics so close to the floor.

[@MrBikemech]

@@Max_Chooch Yeah, knowing the right terms for searching when looking to purchase/research parts is super useful though.

[@frankblom8546]

Colin, you should make the floor in compartiments. Just weld some strip between the box section and the wall. And seal everything with silicone. If you have leakage it cant creep. And you keep the water within one section.

[@user-fy7ru4ii1i]

Delays in projects are REALLY frustrating and really normal. Good on you for investigating properly and recovering well.

[@RossReedstrom]

Love the dig at sparkies not cleaning up!

[@cosmicinsane516]

And it’s so true.

[@caldosan5823]

Yup as soon as the clippings fall below their eyeline, they may well have disappeared into the ninth dimension

[@meaninglesskibble]

Yep - made me laugh like Muttley.

[@budgiefriend]

Kinda like "Kilroy was here"

[@legionofthedamned157]

cleaning up ? what is this cleaning up you are talking about ? as a sparki of 10 year i would like to know

[@Barry.ONeill]

@4:43 As I have worked in construction I could not stop laughing 😂😂😂

[@GreenJimll]

Yeah, you could spot the plumber in Colin as he brushed the waste out of sight under the dustpan.... 🙂

[@kevintessier3760]

Not only do I work in construction, I install flooring so I typically have to clean up their (and everyone else's) mess.

[@W1gglePuppy]

Biggest on site argument I ever saw, leccy clipped end of three core. Cut end flew into plasters bucket, about 5 min later it all kicked off! 😅

[@drewharrison6433]

It's funny cause it's true. Still, if I was a contractor paying my sub $120 an hour for labor and I saw his guys sweeping up, I might not like that when I have a cleaning person I pay $30.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

I'm rather taken by the power tool displayed around 22:05. I know it's not a brand new tool in the world, but it's new to me!

[@neilpinner5750]

Hello colin, ventilation will help a lot at stopping moisture, also having wick holes, that have a wick sticking out to allow moisture to evaporate away. Also with dehumidifiers if you have them working in a closed area they work great, so at night curtain off section and in the morning itl be dry,next night move along to another closed section thank you, great vid. Greetings from cornwall where it's always damp!

[@HunterDigi]

Since the water has been there for months maybe add some DIY water sensors to get "notified" when and where it happens. Simplest could be 2 pieces of exposed wire on maybe a piece of super thin tape to be as close to the floor as possible, going to an LED and a battery, scattered over the various sections.... or maybe there's more reliable ways to do it? Maybe something that covers an entire line of floor so you know if water passed that line or not.

[@sullyzworld4970]

Ive been workin with concrete n masonary all my life. Everything u do looks spot on. One thing i do to try to combat cold joints between pours. There is a special bonding primer. U apply between pours..... we call it milk. Simple liquid. Spray on heavily let dry 24 hours. U good. Same stuff u use on concrete flooring float. Before appling tile etc all same stuff. Concrete stuff cheaper tho

[@cbutler3118]

Look into adding a keyway in between each concrete pour. It will help lock the floor to the wall, and the wall to the roof. This will eliminate any cold joints in the concrete and could help with water intrusion.

[@STAG162]

20:43 "Every day... the garage give birth to a Furze!!" that had me in stitches.

[@bobfrankish8883]

Nice one Colin. On the subject of the electrics: the regulations call for equipotential bonding of any extraneous metalwork. In simple terms, any metal you can touch has to be at the same earth potential as the nearest source of power, which in your case will be your sockets. The fact that you have used metalclad sockets onto studs pretty much has that covered, so long as you link the earth terminals in the back boxes. As others have said, I don't like the look of the cable you have used, it may have a larger cross-section in real life, but it will be simple enough to perform some design calculations for the voltage drop, which will then lead you to the correct cable decision. You have mentioned insulation in the floor, make sure the cables are not in contact with it, or they will need up-sizing accordingly. Flexible cable for fixed installations is frowned upon, mainly because its' sheath offers very little mechanical protection, but as far as I can recall, it was not illegal in the 16th edition regs. which were the last ones I took.

[@JK-gl7bf]

Romex is the same thing and used in residential builds. Tho residential builds normally use wooden studs. I would have opted for conduit but armored clad cable like MC cable is a good go to when dealing with metal framing. I have a bigger issue with the size of the conductors being pulled. Looked like #16 AWG only good for 12.5 Amps. Here in the states we normally run #14 awg wire for residential outlet circuits, which is good for 15 amps of current. #12AWG for baths, kitchens and garages which is good for 20amps. For my house i went with #12 every where and 20A receptacles. As for voltage drop, if under 500 ft it will normally fall with in 3% which is what my firm specs for branch circuits. Still love watching these videos!

[@bobfrankish8883]

@@JK-gl7bf You are right of course, regulations are a bit different here, but physics is physics when it comes down to conductor CSA. The UK is starting to move away from ring circuits in favour of radial, as is common in the USA, which is a good thing in my opinion.

[@MrGreen_910]

As a guy that has just moved to Canada from the UK, I do not miss the cold of the UK winter. I was out shovelling snow in jeans and a t-shirt, thinking it was around 0c, wasn't until the wife came out calling me crazy because I didn't realise it was -14c. The cold here doesn't feel nearly as cold as back in the UK. The lowest I've been out in so far was -20c ish and it still didn't feel anything like -10c out in the UK countryside.

[@mogaming163]

Just don't live in northern Quebec, they'll make the kids go out for recess in -40c haha

[@MrGreen_910]

@@mogaming163 aha, while I'm not northern Quebec, I am in Gatineau, so still Quebec, and where the inlaws live they usually hit around -40c in the winter, but it's been a weirdly mild winter this year it seems.

[@chrisf6612]

I went skiing years ago in Bulgaria. I was sat on the balcony of the lodge with a beer at -19c. Very much did not feel like it. UK cold is just nastier. Don't know why.

[@mogaming163]

@@MrGreen_910 Yeah this year is a inconsistent winter, I'm used it now and luckily don't have to deal with -40c as often anymore after moving more south.

[@livedandletdie]

@@MrGreen_910 Do you know a guy named Jacques that moved to the US to work at Seaworld serving a youthful porpoise? I'll see myself out for making that great Reference joke to the late Canadian Comedian Norm MacDonald.

[@Jennifer-hq9sf]

Congrats on 1.01 million subs. Your tunnel work is truly impressive, and the purevideo feature on the Ace Pro is absolutely mind-blowing!

[@UltimateMadWorld]

Good point, if left unchecked the moisture can build up pretty quick as with many structures if left unchecked! Humidity and moisture sensors placed on each area of the complex is infact not a bad idea which can be isolated in order to establish the source. Whether it's the build up of condensation in the air (or) whether or not infact water from the elements is seeping thru from above! But it's the wiring thru the ring mains thats worrying me! This all determines the choice of materials for the electrical trunking for the wiring, if plastic pvc and it's cracked due to the pressure of the concrete poured in pending on the wiring config then it can potentially act like a water hose alongside the AC cabling if it is solely the cause!

[@Tom-2221]

Yes! It is a big earth rod. Make sure you do bond it back to your main earth terminal, as the whole thing is really an extraneous conducive part. Nice supplementary earth electrode for your installation 😃

[@garethcondliffe6238]

Lol I was just about to write the same. 😂

[@burnstick1380]

I'm actually not sure because whilst the steel would for sure conduct electricity but the concrete can act as an insulator if it's really dry (it's england so prob not). Concrete can range from 10^5 ohm-mm (wet) to 10^12 ohm-mm when dry (according to a paper i found online). So in total I'm not so sure.

[@xeno087]

​@@garethcondliffe6238 Same, definitely leaning towards extraneous conductive part though...

[@bkbroiler8069]

Is amazing all the misinformation here, from ignorant people totally sure of their opinions.

[@patemathic]

​@@burnstick1380I imagine the sheer surface area of the tunnel and garage make it a fairly large capacitor, plus the existing earth rod and some conductivity, this is definitely a lot more grounding than just the earth rod, for mains and AC in general anyway. Source: somewhat knowing stuff about electricity

[@jcerjak]

COLIN! DRY IT OUT. Mold spores can sprout in 24 hours. Treat wood & hardporous materials with a misted botanical chemical like Benefect or go heavy with a diluted pine sol. Do your best to close off the wet area with 3-5 mil plastic walls and heavy duty green frog tape. Rent 2-3 heavy duty dehumidifiers and 1-2x porta-filter. Use a mold specific air filter. Add some air movers and create a negative pressure zone down there to speed up the process. Grab some extra tube & and route the dehu condensers to the back garden. Borrow a moisture meter or find a sponsor. Next, add a some moisture barriers and preventative treatments in there. You need a sump pump. An emergency trash pump up top with a long intake set in there could save your life. Also, look at permanent air filters/central air and the like. A panic button system or simple directional intercom/radios might be smart. Fire protection and CO alerts too.

[@Loebane]

Panic button? Why?

[@demmidemmi]

Also don't put insulation on the floor, heat wants to go up and cold down so insulation doesn't make sense it will only trap and create moisture. Instead put gravel under the floor so water can drain and it will help insulate from the cold and wet ground.

[@alvatoredimarco]

@@demmidemmi There isn't any cold and wet ground. The tunnel is fully encased on all four sides by a thick shell of concrete.

[@demmidemmi]

@@alvatoredimarco if so then the insulation makes even less sense then all it's doing is holding onto moisture.

[@TheMrR9]

1:24 He's not lying, got up to -5 the other day and it was shorts and T-shirt weather. Caught me a good tan

[@Dwigt_Rortugal]

It's always nice to visit a warmer climate in the winter, and it'll be 15 or some such, and people are wearing down puffer jackets.

[@colewelden]

Less than a month ago it was under -30 here for a solid week straight. Warmed up to about -2 and I was getting sweaty working outside in a jacket. I'm always impressed at how well our bodies can adapt to acclimate to these yearly temp swings. Last summer the temps peaked at a bit over 38 degrees. Come winter time it's near the same in the negatives. Crazy.

[@IceInMaWeiner]

Nobody wants this to flood because we all want to make one if it's successful.

[@justanothaguy3714]

Flood tracking suggestion: if you drip food coloring around the edges of each room, on top of metal bottom, you will have an easy time hunting in the future. Id suggest you use different colors for each room and leave the hall space without. In the future if you have a puddle of clear water you know it didnt come from ether room. If its red its come in the red room and now you know for sure. An intentional sump plus pump might also be a good idea long term. Its not like the weather is gonna get any less extreme in our lifetimes. Happy 1M!

[@alazar4161]

Love your videos Colin! That being said 1. Where is your Wet-Vac Sir? 2. If you're still concerned about moisture/coondensate getting down your exhaust vent, reconfigure the end of your vent in a "U" configuration with open end pointing toward the ground. It shouldn't affect the CFM, keeps anything from dropping in. Thanks for the inspiration!

[@shannonobrien4729]

Colin you are a plumber right?

[@alxgu198]

🤦‍♂️ of course! Bloody wet-vac! 😂

[@Hobbies4Hire]

Great job on the video Colin! Thanks for making it.

[@wanhliu552]

You have amazing energy Cole, keep it up, I’m eager to see future videos !

[@oze-bikes4life663]

In Australia as a retired Electrican we have a rule of 300mm for general power, we can have skirting mounted outlets or floor mounted outlets under a reception desk or near a workstation etc. But skirting or floor mounted in wet areas, is a big fat NO. ! I would of put them at 300mm and used a IP65 Weatherproof outlet as an extra layer of protection. I imagine RCD Circuit Breakers are "compulsory" in England, is that Standard practise ? But hopfully when its completed you never see moisture like that again. Im loving this series, cant wait to see the Delorean rise out of the earth, a very "Back to the Future type scene" 😊 Great Work Colin 👏 👍 👌

[@cj.wijtmans]

gets flooded and puts the electrics right above the floor. heh.

[@imark7777777]

Nobody's answered this yet, I guess I'm obligated to. and as somebody from the US I feel fully qualified to answer this question about the UK. Unless it's an older residents and I mean Old there's generally a rcd for the whole house. Newer construction/the standard for a while was a split board with 2 RCDs to have some redundancy without punching the entire house into the dark. And the current standard is optional RCBO's. I suspect this house is somewhere in between. Yeah probably should've done some weather proof covers/boxes although the metal ones are probably more sturdy than the plastic. Although I think he's thinking this is going to be eventually an indoor location which would mean that's acceptable. Although he might've been a little early to connecting things with the weather.

[@Ronaldo___________]

Weather proof is for weather not flooding

[@oze-bikes4life663]

​​​@@Ronaldo___________Yes correct, but he's not installing these outlets "underwater" 😅 😂 Ip65 is for water proofing in all directions eg rain & directional pressure from high pressure cleaners in factory's cleaning walls around Outlets & switches etc, (i have installed a one way valve on some Outlets which were Surface Mount (IP65) to release any condensation and/or if seal is ever compromised to drain & dry outlet over time) but not full on submersion ofcourse as found in Swimming pool lighting. By putting outlets at 300mm high if outlets ever were submerged by that high of a water level then an RCD would safely disconnect circuit at 30mA leakage. End of the day if water level is 300mm or above, then electrical is only 1 ISSUE OF MANY !!

[@MrToberton]

​@@imark7777777 Although...

[@danielson9579]

Lol at showing the electricians how to clean up they always leave a mess lol 😂

[@Pomaufour]

That was hilarious ! I think before YT Colin was a plumber no ?

[@craigwelsh]

​@Pomaufour yes he was. As someone who had two electricians in recently I'm still finding offcuts of wire sheathing they left anywhere and everywhere!

[@canadiangemstones7636]

Only ones worse than sparkies are the effing hvac boys, leaving razor-sharp shrapnel strewn everywhere.

[@dgillies5420]

I grew up in central Illinois, USA. My parents were 5'11 and 6'2 so for their 2nd house they elected to build a full-depth basement (not 6' height but a full 8' I think). As a caution they built at the top of a prairie hill at least 20 ft higher than some homes just 4 houses away. Despite this, the basement would flood after big rains. It just turns out that the water table prefers 6' over 8', sometimes. After years of blaming people for flushing tampons down the drain and other horseshit excuses, we added a below-basement sump pump and the sump was the actual solution it just pulled water from beneath the basement and dropped it 20' out in the back yard ...

[@rutherfordjeffrey1]

I love your music choices! Your closing song, EPIC!

[@HayzeeHayes]

Underground swimming pool! You've gotta make that happen Col!

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

I was wondering what he could do to up the game after the car lift is done. An underground swimming pool would be epic!

[@josephharrison5639]

Agreed with high dive too

[@harrytraber8380]

Underground hot tub.

[@markedwards158]

Swimming pool could be an extension to the original bunker. Brilliant idea. 😀

[@Max_Marz]

Colin put some sealant in strategic places around the box tubes so that localized flooding stays contained in discrete areas, perhaps a couple of cheap flood sensors under the floor would be worthwhile. Highly suggest using Automotive Seam Sealer for this, its very tenaciously sticky and urethane based so it cures with moisture. It also remains pliable and slightly plastic after curing for decades. It's really good stuff. How cool is it that you had a real reason to buy one of those rebar tying guns!

[@2MuchColinFurze]

Good suggestion that stuff

[@codypatfield2812]

Ontairo canada hasn’t even had a winter much this year! Have a great day. Hope it warms up for you

[@gordontownsend1544]

Another Great Video Colin, Love the Stud Welder, And yes the frame is a great Earth, But Conrete can dry the Ground out, so can be a catch 22, but a good idea to connect your Earth on your Power Points to the outer wall so there is no potential difference. Loved watching the concrete pouir around the walls. Keep up the Great work. Gordon Australia

[@chevyfahrer]

21:10 you are absolutely right,my hands are sweating thinking of that wall collapsing with you being in there alone

[@user-tm1me9lu3g]

Колин, живи ❕

[@lochlanrivers1021]

I absolutely lost it when he started cleaning up his electrical mess 😂😂😂

[@yobgodababua1862]

We've had some electricians working a big project in the building garage, and those little clipped bits of wire and insulation are literally EVERYWHERE.

[@TheMattSturgeon]

In fairness those cable strippings are an absolute *pain* to sweep up without a vacuum. Even sparkies who attempt to tidy up often miss most of them 😅

[@notkenoagain]

Ive worked as an electrician for the better part of 13 years now and if I had a cent for everyone of these I saw, I'd be a trillionare by now! And even I, with a little bit of an OCD disorder and I need to clean everything up, I tend miss some here and there ;D @@yobgodababua1862

[@fromthegroundtotheclouds978]

Yep me too! At least he didn’t get out a hoover!! 😂

[@UltimateMadWorld]

Moisture and electricity don't mix 🤯⚡ There's no harm Colin in reviewing your ventilation systems regards to moisture absorbtion and making the necessary key re-adjustments accordingly. It's worth mentioning that the larger the space for every metre² the more it determines how much ventilation for every cubic inch² of space is going to have to accommodate for after the modifications under the driveway! Taking into consideration of how air tight your tunnel complex is! Stick down Silica gel grains underneath the sheets of 50mm Kingspan insulation to help absorb the build up of trapped condensation and hey presto Bob's your Uncle! 😉👍

[@MrHansen]

Drain pipe around the foundation leading to a sump drain would do wonders for your water management. An automatic sump pump could then eject the water when needed.

[@AdricBraithwaite]

Oh man, the first thing I thought of when I saw that water was mold. Might want to spray a mold inhibitor or a anti-microbial sealer on anything porous in there such as the wood. Having a mold outbreak would really suck in that confined space! Also, consider a sump or sealing up those steel subfloor beams with some silicone to contain the spread. Congrats on one million btw! This channel has quickly shot up to one of my favorites on KZbin.

[@stargazer7644]

Mold shmold.

[@forster46]

The joke about the electricians cleaning up was spot on

[@gsx1400madboy]

Colin your enthusiasm is infectious... Brilliant!!!

[@PipeDreamerJacques]

You could always use some close-celled spray foam at the major breaks where tunnels and chambers combine, and seal each little floor bit from each other section, so that you’d have some natural dams beneath the floor.

[@raymondheckard234]

Colin, word to the wise in the the Underground Garage put a sump to collect water if you ever have another leak, also with you parking your car in the garage, there is a risk of water getting in when the door is open, and doors do leak at times. a sump of 1 cu/m should suffice

[@DeivydasZeimys]

COLIN! Consider putting water sensor somewhere in floor garage/house bit Or just a spot glass in the floor If you ever have another leak you will be notified right away. Especially with the floor done in the future you might not notice otherwise

[@frankierzucekjr]

I just freakin love the Colin Furze channel and now the new one one. If I could have an ⅛ of the talent you have, I'd be set. I can't wait to see the whole thing dug out. So freakin exciting, I can only imagine how excited you are, lol. Stay safe, bud.

[@sarchlalaith8836]

04:48 shots fired!

[@ccoder4953]

Yes, that should be the ultimate ground. Many houses that have poured concrete foundations have rebar in them. It's become common practice to leave a piece of that rebar sticking out that becomes the ground for the house instead of having a ground rod. It's called Ufer ground. They're actually quite effective, often much better than a ground rod.

[@adamlesandrini312]

Except I don’t think he left rebar sticking into the soil. If there isn’t a continuous path from the plug to the earth there is no ground.

[@chrissanders1027]

Also what if you’re in there under a fault condition.

[@ccoder4953]

@@adamlesandrini312 Don't need to do that. Just need a good electrical connection to the concrete. Concrete in good contact with soil will have a little bit of water from the soil. That water and the concrete itself has enough free ions to conduct electricity. Concrete has a high pH, which means it has quite alot of ions available. Since there's so much surface area, it actually becomes capable of conducting quite alot of electricity. In fact, the Ufer grounds in common use in houses don't have rebar sticking into the ground either. Because they don't need it. There's a Wikipedia article on this type of ground that explains the physics.

[@ccoder4953]

@@chrissanders1027 The thing is a Faraday cage in excellent contact with the ground. Unless the fault is simply massive (we're talking like substation levels of energy), it's probably the safest place to be. The only bad part is if you happen to be touching the tunnel/bunker/garage walls AND an electrical conductor. You'll be the link between the electricity and a really good ground. Similar to if you were standing in a puddle. But otherwise, if an electrical conductor should touch the metal walls, it'll be basically guaranteed to trip the breaker/blow the fuse with virtually no danger to any humans.

[@adamlesandrini312]

@@chrissanders1027 that's a good point, but if you have good contact on either end with all that surface area you'd likely be fine.

[@Aviertje]

Colin, have you considered including little basins with buckets in strategic parts of your bunker, tunnel and garage-to-be? Not necessarily leading into the ground itself, but just little holes with buckets that other parts of the floor subtly slope down towards so that any future liquid-based issues produce a lot less mess. It would obviously be useless with a lot of flooding, but since your floors are so perfectly even, it ought to help immensely against puddles that slowly build up underneath your floor with you being none the wiser as the liquid will end up guiding itself towards a central catching area eventually. You could practically implement a dipstick style approach on your little catch basin buckets to find out if they'd gathered water on a regular basis, and easily diagnose such issues faster than by waiting several months to check out a flickering light like you did this time. (Of course, that implies you check whether those buckets collect water to begin with, but I think checking those once a week could just be a part of your cleaning schedule...)

[@MichaAlicki]

Colin could add some water sensor to those buckets, so he do not have manually check them. He could even add some nice lights on the wall to indicate that there is water.

[@Jonathan_Doe_]

His bunkers been ok for years without a sump/sump pump, the driveway will probably have more issues due to going up and down etc though, so a sump would probably be a good idea.

[@Aviertje]

@@Jonathan_Doe_TIL a new word. I never knew one of those was called a 'sump'. Thanks!

[@sonofkronos1]

Over here in the USA, when there is a basement that tends to flood, we put in sump pumps. Basically it is a submersible pump with a float on it and a permanent hose going out. I've seen where people take a 5gal bucket and put it in a hole they cut in the floor at a low point. This means any water that does get in, when it reaches enough to lift the float switch, will be pumped out automatically.

[@gr7788]

With out drainage mitigation to the outside of the walls ,floor / water management and full tanking I would be very surprised if this didn't leak. High MPa concrete and additives although a good idea by themselves won't prevent moisture ingress. Geograpic location, topography also has great influence on this. But none the less your determination, enthusiasm and the cool style of your tunnels is worth the watch.

[@muyoso]

Oh come on, it doesn't rain much in Britain. It probably won't leak often. Its not like its been common knowledge how to deal with underground rooms and moisture mitigation for like a century at this point.

[@user-eg8pv2om7j]

Mr F. Put those plug sockets and wires ½ way up the wall to give you some protection against floods. Also being a bit of an old chap & coffin dodger you won't have to bend down saving creaky ouchy sounds.

[@alanreid3063]

4 big bolts welded on, looks there on and staying on,

[@GARDENER42]

That was my thought too.

[@oranmcclintock302]

This information is For British Eyes Only

[@benwest481]

I'm from Minnesota where we get a lot of rain and water and every house has at least 1 sump pump to pump out any water that makes it under your foundation and will eventually seep through the concrete. they work amazing and i think it could solve your issue.

[@eclipsemn8806]

MN gang

[@Voltaic_Fire]

I'm sure it would but a tunnel that doesn't leak is what he's going for.

[@DougYeager]

Water will always find a way. A sump is in order

[@jafinch78]

Michigan thing as well. I did around the perimeter exterior in high school and worked good. Where I didn't, still can use.

[@sirlythan]

Ditto this. Also, put an alarm on it just in case.

[@ChuckUnderFire]

You seeing all the architecture with that one earth wall is really growing on me. I know it’s not ideal for sealing, but man it looks good to see a bit of earth as an accent wall.

[@JordanBeagle]

11:10 Apparently sometimes they pour concrete in the cold when they do big construction projects, but they also use very hot water and plasticizers to prevent it from stiffening up too much before curing

[@rons3103]

Collin, saw the lady over there that has a rotating car port in her yard, so she can drive in, turn around and drive right out her gate. Time to incorporate that in your underground design! Pull in, go down, spin car 180, raise car up, drive away. Just like the Bat Cave!👍👍👍

[@PhatOof]

That's his plan

[@s-w]

@PhatOof I don't recall him ever saying that was his plan.

[@arjei]

@@s-w He did say it in the video where he told about the plan and had the cardboard model of the whole thing. "Of course I don't want to back out of this thing mmhhm AHAHA".

[@PhatOof]

@@s-w In the very first video of the garage on his main channel I believe. He had a cardboard model and was talking about it for his delorean

[@rons3103]

​@@arjeiI forgot that he mentioned rotating the car in his plan. My bad!

[@XMooseManX]

I want to thank you for initially teaching me about safety squints. I’m an electrician now and I use them daily. Thank you for keeping us safe!!

[@Scott-sx9qq]

haha same im an electrician too. my safety squints save me every day

[@stevenelson886]

You should put a flood alarm under the floor boards. If you have more standing water, you won't know about it until there is a problem. A flood alarm would alert you to a problem before it becomes a BIG problem.

[@amievil3697]

Why run all the electrical at the lowest point? Maybe run it top down. Water leak alarm sensors? Run a forced air system under the floor? French drain to an accessible sump pump/bilge? Is all that metal grounded? Use flat stock for runners for the floor?

[@bakojay8002]

Need to put in some little bulkheads under your walkway mate. It will keep any future flooding from spreading and keep it localized.

[@Nbomber]

this, but really, he shouldve included 50mm ventilation space. pretty sure its in the building regs too. but that could just be for habitable space.

[@colingunn4822]

Colin its Colin from Canada. We use hot water for our concrete mix and pours in the winter.

[@nonickname1522]

1.02M Subscribers! Yay! ❤🎉 Congratulations 🎈🎉🍾🎊

[@Trakker44]

Colin, You need a sump hole lower than your floor level to gather groundwater and lower your water table. Any water accumulating can be automatically pumped out to drain with Sump pump.

[@aowest5904]

I was thinking the same, it's quite common in boat systems. make sure the rain water can not be siphoned back into the hole!

[@muyoso]

Wait, he didn't put in a sump system? LMFAO.

[@justinfielding]

Agreed, any abandoned WW2/Cold War bunker exploration videos I've watched have revelaed some sort of false floor, sump and pump arrangement. I guess the only alternative is to have the bunker fully watertight/sealed.

[@Nomadic2b34u-bt4zs]

Colin, the best attachment for your wet and dry Hoover is 6 - 8 inches of garden hose, wrap any tape at the mid point until it makes a tight fit in the Hoover pipe. Cut a fresh 45 on the end, Now you have a clean and dry finish evrytime.

[@jamesbeckett4390]

Make sure it's bonded to your main earth terminal as the whole thing is arguably an extraneous conductive part. Just sweep the cable waste into a pile in the corner, someone else will get rid of it.

[@mrscoot1]

With all that humidity and the cold weather, you should get a portable heat/ac (make sure it is the ones that have heat pump) I got a used one that a couple had a few months and said it did not cool enough, noticed the filters were not cleaned(looked like lent trap on clothes dryer) for $200 US. It cools, heats , and removes moisture out of my 400sqft. Tiny house and once it gets upto temp it maintains well and actually does not need to run much! It is Hisense and they are some that are supposed to be bigger and have dual hose ,but this one does great in 400sqft. And it removes moisture out of the air well, especially in heat mode. I think it will work well in your tunnel and help greatly with your moisture problem. If you do not fix the moisture problem before you insulate and add wood floor and carpet you will get a mold problem and that will be dangerous and could be deadly. And it will not belong before you have to suit up and mask and tear it all out ,and they may require a certified proffessional mold company to remove and certify it! I think you need to stop and wait until you get it completely cemented all around (dried in) and incoming water and moisture issue solved before installing any wood, because you will get mold faster ten you think and you will not be able to be in there without protection until all is removed and certified mold free! I mentioned the portable heat pump ac/with heat because in heat mode it removes moisture as a byproduct exstremely well also has an air dry mode! ** I would not have written all this if I was not 100% chance you will have an issue ,and that my suggestions would help! But if you do not think I am correct talk to proffesional mold removel workers or company!!! I am just trying to help , I love what you are doing , and only want to try to help you !

[@WolfsburgTech]

Hi Colin. If you truly wanted to find the source of your water leak into your floor, you would remove the plywood and insulation. Dry it completely with a wet-dry vac, and leave it open until it rains enough to start leaking again. If you're not present, you could set up a camera with time-lapse to catch the point of origin. Also, if this were my tunnel, I would put the mains wall boxes at least waist-high so they're less likely to be harmed in flooding situations. Our basement has a dry well with a sump pump. There's a float switch that turns the pump on to pump water out of the dry well. Cheers.

[@mikeanderson2730]

You can actually pour concrete at minus 5. In sweden we do that all the time, it´s an additive the concrete company puts in the stuff when they mix it, it stop it from freeze. Check with your company, we have a lot of different additives if you want to pour in subzero, under water, highten strenght, slow cure and so on. You gotta keep the time schedule. Keep up the good work, this is a once in a lifetime project!

[@maggotpudding]

A finn here, was going to say the same thing. Although, given what weather in UK is like most of the year it just might be that concrete companies don't do that or it is considered special service which would make it very expensive for those few days it is below freezing. Any brit care to elaborate?

[@MrTwisted003]

I thought you could poor in sub zero, but I was thinking it's exothermic and would keep it warmer than 0 for such a small difference. Minus 5C isn't that cold, it even takes a while to freeze water when it's still that warm. Am I wrong? Obviously colder temps would need an additive, but I wouldn't think -5 would. Even when I consider 5 degrees C is much more than 5 degrees F (5 degrees C is approx. 9 degrees F).

[@mikeanderson2730]

You are not wrong. But the additives helps when the concrete burns. Colder air contains a substancial lesser amount of condensed water, if you are not slow down the concrete with additives, it becomes very briddle and therefore weak. Lowest temperature i poured concrete in was minus 15. (celcius)@@MrTwisted003

[@SchwachsinnProduzent]

I think the concern was rather, that there could still be a layer of ice between the previous layer of concrete and the next one, so pouring at -5 could leave a void?

[@mikeanderson2730]

Aha. Well, when the concrete hardens, or burns, the temperature raises up to ten-fiftheen degrees above surrounding temperature, and when you build superstructures you always pour wet in wet, so thats not an issue. However, if you pour with seemes, like in this case, you have to heat the surface to remove condensation (snow/water (app 5-10% is ok, thats being absorbed)) you do that with metal lids equiped with butan burners. This is not recommended for superstructures as you weekens the seams with app 30%. But in the Furze application you have sides of stone/gravel/clay and steel, so thats not an issue.

[@cook13snip3aa]

@Colin, I’d recommend you check the thickness of the cable you’re using to run the sockets in the garage, as the length will effect your current carrying capacity (and how hot the cable gets under load). As well as the voltage drop over the length. As you may need thicker cable than what you already installed.

[@peterream9437]

Looks like he's used 1.5mm...not ideal for a large area ring main. Plenty of volt drop and only rated to 16amp

[@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_you]

As he's running it as a ring, not a radial, thats less of an issue. Its more loop area of the ring that is the limiting issue. But 2.5mm on a ring will be more than enough assuming the loop area isn't huge (which it could be). Other have pointed out however he really does need to run an earth bond from the tunnel steel to the main earth terminal at the henly block either near the CU or often the meter and incoming supply. The whole thing is an extraneous conductive path, and assuming he has a TN-C/S (where the DNO provides an earth connection) which is more common in housing estates than TT (earth rod needed) its possible a better earth impedance than the DNO, so could create a voltage differential on its own.

[@davideyres955]

good luck getting somewhere to bang an earth rod into. Secret tunnels, bat caves, secret bunkers. No chance. However he could probably change it to a TT and use all the metal that’s in contact with the literal earth as the earth rod. Bet it would be a low Ze reading.

[@peterream9437]

@@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_you He'll be the main earthing point for the whole estate..lol.. Everyone's earthloop should drop...Looking at the age of houses...Id say the dno network is all on pme... Btw I have nearly fourty years of experience in the electrical sector , and every ring main I've ever installed has been a minimum of 2.5mm. 1.5 on a final circuit when protected by a fcu at 13a.

[@gorasuhl97]

the voltage drop or size of the cable should be the last thing you should worry about. he should concact an electrician to check the outlets. if the MCB or RCD don't work properly, a hot cable should be the least of his problems

[@thoughtful_criticiser]

You were doing so well and have done so much, I thought you already have a sump and pump. As for sockets, Building Regs Colin.

[@berbandis]

He was so right about the cleanup or lack thereof when it comes to electricians. I Do my own work so I always clean up but whenever I find work that was done when the house was made its bits of wire stripping, short cut off wire, broken wire nuts, wire insulation and anything else that was not worth putting in a pocket when the job was done.

[@devenp.5508]

The plumbers and hvac guys sure do leave a lot of stuff behind. I think it’s just an issues with residential guys not really having good ways of getting rid of garbage. Some guys (me) argue when you buy the materials you also buy the garbage that comes with it. Idk but I’ve never had issues with any trades leaving things behind on commercial projects but just about every trade seems to leave their mess when it comes to residential. My boss always brought a garbage can with us to every job but he didn’t have a bag limit and now that I’m running my own jobs if the customer doesn’t have a dumpster I just neatly pack it up for them or offer to do a dump run which they will be charged for since I have no way of getting rid of it myself. Always clean up afterwards but the money won’t be coming out of my pocket for garbage. I don’t get paid enough to own a home so I won’t be paying for a homeowner’s garbage.

[@Arational]

In Canada, concrete gets poured at -5C. There are different formulations you can order depending on temperature. On hot days, they can put ice in to prevent it from setting up too quickly.

[@sirBrouwer]

In the UK concrete like that is a bit over kill. It only freezes like up to 3 weeks in total in a year. (Not even consistently ) so just waiting a day or two is much cheaper.

[@dean5828]

As the UK is an island the cold hits differently. As there is more water in the air. You can walk around in -20 in Canada but you wouldn’t be able in the UK.

[@morganater1232]

@@dean5828coastal Canada would like to have a word with you. Also after a certain temp all the water in the air is ice anyways so it’s really the same. But if you want to feel some real cold, come experience some dry -40, that chills you to the bone

[@mactech8167]

You put a bottle of coke a cola in there to keep it from setting faster!

[@davidduffett2188]

That bit addressed to 'all the Electricians', starting around 4:40, really made me laugh... Brilliant observation - probably based on years of experience 😂

[@hmcredfed1836]

7:55 I work in a Ship yard its a quite simular structure xD and its very likely condensation! If you have a metal sheet wall without insulation you will always get condensation on the cold site of the plate (If the delta C° is high enough.)

[@eschmitt89]

Colin these less edited videos are just as good as the main channel for tunnel updates. Us youtube consumers are addicts and we just want MORE content as FAST as possible. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming! We will literally take any footage you have no matter how "mundane" or "raw" you think it might be, we love it. Thrilled with the tunnel progress and can't wait to see more! Hopefully the weather improves to make your life a little easier :)

[@evan-edstrom]

For your question on the earth connection, in the US we have moved over to "concrete encased electrodes" as the primary means of bonding to earth for new construction. We attach to a >20' (6 meter) piece of rebar encased in the foundation and connect the grounding conductor to that. An inspector comes out before concrete to verify the length of rebar you are using and how you've attached to it.

[@justalonelypoteto]

what's perhaps more of a concern is how exactly you're wiring up those things, seeing as it's probably a good idea to add RCDs in the tunnel. Since they usually just measure the flow through neutral and not directly the earth wire they should be fine, however some other things might be different if instead of having an earth tie at the panel you have it at literally every socket, not exactly the usual configuration I'd say

[@zyeborm]

​@@justalonelypotetothey look for a current imbalance, the number of electrons going out the active should match the number coming back the neutral. If it doesn't then something is leaking electrons somewhere and it'll trip. Doesn't even have to go to earth, you could touch another phase and it'll still trip. Some countries run without local Earth's at all. Still have RCDS

[@Battusai1984]

@@zyeborm While i know that's not how it works, I'm still dying to find out how exactly you believe they measure the electrons ^^

[@andremaassdorf4515]

@@Battusai1984 By measuring the residual current. The magnetic fields around active and neutral twisted together will cancel each other out if no current is leaking behind the RCD. Otherwise the current difference (or the residual current, hence the name) will cause a residual magnetic field, which is used to sense and eventually trip. It's exactly how @zyeborm explained. No earth needed.

[@craigsharp88]

The steel frame of the structure will likely make a good earth, however you may end up with a difference in earth potential between the frame and the property’s electrical earth. Would be sensible to cross bond with some 10mm earth wire. Also, sensible to put the garage supply on RCD if not already.

[@adrianbravo2367]

Add a emergency water submerged pump with built-in floater. 12v 24v 110v...pumps are small. Recommend a dehumidifier .(Quest dehumidifier) are solid.

[@adrianbravo2367]

Dehumidifier will keep floor walls dry.

[@rdreynoldsbanana]

omg Colin I had no idea I wasn't subbed to you, I've been watching for YEARS -_-... What an amazing update I always enjoy your tunnel updates!

[@br6768]

Colin's attitude is wonderful. Every episode. Very inspiring.

[@PhewChurz]

Colin, obvs a big long time fan and all of your videos and editing is top notch. The cadence of your commentary is so natural to camera. Even watched the entirety of your sponsor spot coz it was so matter of fact and not just a plug. Keep up the awesome content.

[@bostedtap8399]

1 million subscribers, jolly good. Great project Colin, concreting is akin to icing on the cake, ref hard slog of digging 👍

[@DanielJamesSmithGB]

Cheers for the update, really enjoyed and look forward to seeing more videos in future. Swimming pool idea wouldn't be a bad idea as a future addition? Where would it go though? Be good though if built? Was thinking could build a lift from house to tunnels next? Lift that could go to first floor and maybe if expanded deeper? To another floor deeper underground. Would be epic future project? Look forward to seeing what comes next, cannot wait to see garage all finished and complete. Cheers 😀👍

[@michelhv]

I’m glad Colin anticipated my Canadian Sarcasm. Well done.

[@joopterwijn]

@04:24 I guess you have to splice the join the earth rod and connect it to the metal “bunker” shell. If you don’t it mite give you a shock because possibly potential difference.