SECRETS They DON'T Want You To Know: Compounds & Polishes part 1

[@chrisbradley3224]

Jimbo, I think the DIY sprayable polish is simply the same regular emulsion or slightly tweaked for viscosity. It doesn’t have to be reverse gel or thixotropic. It just has to not separate or concentrate the abrasives when sucked up and sprayed out. The advantage is just distribution on the pad and repeatability.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Ya I think you’re right about that. Ive seen some reports of the DIY clogging the sprayer so I don't think they went the thixotropic route. Seems like something they would have mentioned too if they did.

[@tacticalofficer6103]

Jimbo and Tom Thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!!!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Any time! Thanks for watching.

[@dmrk0834]

"Much better than trying to get an explanation from a detailer" 👍🏽👍🏽

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Definitely!

[@j.coreyplestina234]

1:13:15 When I first bring up the how far down the rabbit hole do you want me to go, I always start with the thickness gauge just as a reference so if there is a scratch on 1 area of a panel and for whatever reason there is a lower reading to begin with, I can reach out to the client and let them know that "said scratch" is not going to be removed safely, but I can reduce the visibility of it!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I like that.

[@marioskosmidhs9454]

Mike Philips also , Scott Bley talked many many many years ago about clear coat, uv, and danger of perfect paint all the time

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Yes!

[@YanniObkirk]

HD Adapt was the precursor of 3D ONE. Marketed as the same type of product. If I recall HD Adapt had to be removed from the market due to some legal issues. I don't know if they infringed on someone else's IP or what the deal was. 3D ONE came out many years later.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Interesting. I didn’t know that

[@TheMobileDetailShop1296]

Glad to see Mr horvath back.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

He’s got so much great info.

[@BrillianceAutoSpa]

The best water treatment system includes an electro deionization system.

[@YanniObkirk]

Sonax Perfect Finish is an old school formula that dusts and there’s a huge cult following for that product.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Interesting. I wonder why so many people like it.

[@AmirAbdullah]

It’s not a bad product especially for beginners

[@mattsmagicdetailtechaustralia]

I will defend Tom's method but also the "sand more polish less method" . it makes more sense than sanding to 1500 grit then Farecla G360 or other compound then two more steps after that. Because machine polishing has more variables including the worst one - heat. Tom's method of finish at 2500 grit then Ceram XX with wool and foam is a great one I won't argue with him at all on that. However I love sanding and for several years have gone to 3000, 5000 or even 8000 then use a foam pad (my all rounder green is best nowadays) with Ceram XX or a finish polish and be done. by doing more sanding you reduce polishing from three steps to one maybe two if you want to be anal. the reason I defend this method is that the variables of polishing to name most but not all are user experience, polisher type (forced, random, rotary or drum), quality of the tool (not all are equal), pad type, arm speed, how much product, the cycle time, the technique (one speed, multiple speeds, start slow finish fast or slow,, start high finish slow etc) and how much pressure if any. Sanding is a superior and uniform material removal system whose performance and capabilities blows away machine compounding and polishing by giving a far bigger transformation, not creating heat and getting the exact same result every time unless your a bad sander or have a bad machine or abrasive tech. the timeframe to sand is very little and probably less than polishing. ten seconds to maybe 20 to 30 seconds to sand a section by machine (prefer machine as it's less aggressive) vs 45, 60, 90 to 180 seconds of polishing and two to three times. you remove less paint by sanding than compounding too. Compound and wool removal amount on average is 3.5 to 4 or maybe 5 microns. My preference now would be sand to 3000 or 5000 most often, sometimes 8000 then Ceram XX or Mirka Pro Iridium 1250 with foam. In one step the sanding marks are removed and paint finished out great. And if I get my After Burner pad to contour better this year my peers will be able to grab a DA, use at speed 1.5 and in one movement from left to right across the section of a panel take out 1200 to 1500 grit or finer sand marks and leave no marring or only the tiniest haze and pigtails which are removed with an ultra fine foam. Orange peel reduction of 25% with a finishing polish with my other pad on soft to soft medium paints and excellent correction on medium hardness paints with Ceram XX. better clarity and finish than wool. Just some food for thought. Example - sand with 800, 1000 or 1200 then 1500 then two or three step polishing vs sand 800, 1200, 1500, 3000, 5000 then polish once. both are either six steps total or at best 5 vs 6 - not a big difference. I am not experienced in hand sanding whole cars (done it once only) so maybe it doesn't work for that but if machine sanding after painting - sand more polish less is a no brainer. instagram.com/p/C_asVqwSp1x/ instagram.com/p/C3o48yCRMXf/

[@autodetailingpodcast]

it’s interesting to see how sanding more can streamline the polishing steps and reduce heat-related issues. Definitely some great food for thought-thanks for taking the time to share this!

[@j.coreyplestina234]

1:07:45 1:08:19 Want to look into this type of paint job was done and the end result. (I was born with the I NEED TO KNOW WHY everything works, like you said in the beginning of this podcast)

[@davidboyce6427]

Diminishing abrasives. So when they are worked they become smaller and smaller eventually gone. So what remains is the oil/ lubricant. That doesn’t diminish or break down 👀

[@autodetailingpodcast]

From my understanding that seems to be correct.

[@IamDetailedAF]

No scent, no color.... Lets gooo!!!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

The only way it should be!

[@chrisbradley3224]

I would like to see a one step that is biased toward finishing at the expense of cut if needed and will finish as good or better than Reflect or Koch M3. I’d also be curious if your chemist could make a pure magic with oxalic acid or any other acid instead of ammonium bifluoride. I know it’s effective but I simply do not want to have any product containing HF or ABF around.

[@xp2autocare]

oxalic, citric and sulfonic acid

[@autodetailingpodcast]

The goal for this new one-step polish is zero dusting, easy wipe-off, great work time, and top-tier finishing-all while still offering solid cutting ability. As for the second part, I totally get where you're coming from. I’ll bring it up with the chemist to see if there’s a way to achieve the same cleaning power without ABF. Appreciate the input!

[@chrisbradley3224]

@ Sounds good, thanks!

[@YanniObkirk]

Why hasn't Tom and CeramX ever broke into the detailing world? There was the partnership with Darren Priest years ago that seems to have fallen apart or pretty much went nowhere (except maybe increased the sales price of the product).

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I’m not sure what happened with them. But Tom has mainly focused on the auto body side of things with CSI - when it was system one they were in with detailers and were getting copied right and left by tons of other brands.

[@waltergray9182]

Whats the difference between ceram x vs ceram xx

[@autodetailingpodcast]

To my understanding XX has more cut than X.

[@YanniObkirk]

@@waltergray9182 Ceram XX supposedly is a 10 or 12 year newer formula than Ceram X. Tom was able to add more abrasives into the product to make it cut more without losing its ability to finish out the same as the old formula. At least that is what I've gathered. I have not had a chance to test Ceram XX. Frankly the user feedback in the detailing space on the product seems a little mixed. I've heard it will dust if you use too much product, overwork it, or just not keep your pads clean as you work.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

@@YanniObkirk- yes you are correct. It will dust which is prob why Detailers don’t love it. But it cuts and finishes better than most products I’ve tried.

[@YanniObkirk]

If you are creating new formulas please do not add any color dyes that stain buffing pads. That's a trend in the industry that should end!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

This was actually something I was going to ask people their opinion on. I’m leaning little to no scent. Is white in color the best option too?

[@YanniObkirk]

@@autodetailingpodcasta mild scent is ok. Nothing like ethos products. I don’t want the whole shop smelling like one product. Most polishes I’ve used that were white didn’t stain pads. Optimum Hyper Polish is a great product but because of the blue dye it stains all pads that color. No need for it to be blue.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Agree. Ok great feedback. Thanks for that.