Seeburg Restoration Part3

[@erwinspitz8774]

Great information I got my Seeburg 100B scanning because of your video. Now I am working on trying to get the transfer arm to work.

[@rongeernaert1208]

Very clear video lesson and also for my Seeburg Spectra LS1 (1968), I go to disconnect the clutch to clean it oil it and recalibrate it, and this winter electronic parts change !

[@bigredchnl20]

Amazing video, thanks so much for the help. You should be very proud of your courage.

[@harveysheppard3881]

great video very informative. I have a 72 Seeburg Olympian 160. it keeps playing 1 record at a time not stopping any suggesting's.

[@donfulton4875]

Amazing. It's also amazing that the Seeburg engineers made this work at all. I have a Seeburg SS160 and would never consider tearing it down for fear of it never going together again. Why didn't you show us your completed SE100 Golden Jet? It's one of my favorite small jukeboxes.

[@petebohler7047]

Great series of videos...thank you. So...this might not get an answer but I will try...does anyone know where I can get a Fibre Gear for my USC 2?

[@Omegaman1969]

This is a great video. I have the same mech in my Seeburg. The problem I'm having is, if I lift the lever whilst its scanning, it will pick up a record, the needle touches down and the it immediately puts the record back. Do you think this is a clutch issue ? thanks

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

I believe you need to clean and check the tension of the safety plunger at the back on the mechanism (you can see this part in the thumbnail just under the record holder). If I recall correctly this part will catch on any record that is too warped to be playable but if the plunger releases too slowly or catches at all the the mechanism will automatically eject the record after pickup. This is what I remember having go wrong as well but it has been a while since I have had to work on anything mechanical since I hardly ever get a chance to use mine these days. If you are gentle you can trip the mechanism and turn the fly wheel manually with you hand to cycle the mechanism and watch it cycle slowly to see that there are not parts binding up or sticking such as the clutch and safety plunger but you may have to remove your carousel to get a clear view of the back area.

[@bheasy1]

Does the little 1mfd 600vdc capacitor control the trip solenoid?

[@rongeernaert1208]

The orange colored cap I also curious !

[@kristinament6127]

very helpful videos thank you!

[@andreaconti4442]

Ciao un aiuto per regolare la lettura del disco perché non legge da un lato, non è lineare il braccio sul disco?

[@carlwarfield6546]

I have a STD160 seeburg it just keeps scanning, I can trip it manually and it will play and put record back, then just keeps scanning again what may be the problem. Thanks in advance

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

Sounds like the scan switch contacts are not opening after two passes, they are either fused together or the solenoid that operates them is not opening them. On this model it looks like the switch module is inside the control unit. There are two solenoids, one that starts the scan cycle and one that stops it after two passes of the carousel. Make sure the parts on this assembly move freely when you push in on each solenoid as they can get sticky. I think I explain how this switch works in one of my later videos.

[@josephmolion4345]

So am I missing something here? You showed people what it looks like when it's working correctly, but at no point did you seem to show how to actually calibrate the device.

[@davidg.1792]

hello, I have a seeburg carnival sl100, it has been working without problems, but for being a year stopped and when it works again when I select a disc the arm goes very slow and does not get to catch it well, how can I solve it.

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

Sounds like maybe something on the mechanism needs to be oiled or cleaned?

[@CaptKirk1701]

I have a SE100 that scans twice and stops, can you point me in the right direction?

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

If you are not having your credit write in but the machine is scanning then you need to check your Tormat control unit first. Make sure all connectors are firmly seated. There is a lever (just to the right of the tone arm) that you can lift while the machine is scanning to manually "trigger" a pickup to make sure the machine will play a record still. If the Tormat unit has not been rebuilt or serviced than it probably needs to not only be recapped but the SCR trigger may be bad or shorted as the originals are not reliable. There are a couple fuses in this unit too that may be blown indicating these such problems.

[@CaptKirk1701]

I figured it out, the reed switch that kills power to trigger solenoid was dirty, works great now!

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

@@CaptKirk1701 well that's much better than the alternative. If you get dirty leaf switches use some 400-800 grit sand paper and thin cardboard to clean the contacts. Use the thin cardboard to remove the small particles to prevent the switches from becoming dirty again from those particles. Hopefully this info is useful if you didn't know about this method all ready!

[@BrentonValet]

My Seeburg LPC-1 will scan but it won't stop on a record and won't load a record any help what are some troubleshooting ideas please help??

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

Try manually triggering the mechanism to pickup a record while it is scanning by lifting the lever to the right of the stylus and to the left of the trip solenoid (I show this in the video and your mechanism is very similar). It should pick up a record and play it. If it does not play it (puts it back) then you have a mechanical problem likely related to the safety plunger binding. This is a different problem from what you describe though, the problem you are currently having could be a write/read in problem in the tormat control unit or a bad connection with one of the cables. This is an all solid state model like my jukebox, filled with transistors that are no longer made so have fun if you have a problem in the amplifier or Tormat unit. The SCR goes bad in the tormat control units quite often, but there are reliable subs for them.

[@Jamesnov1970]

Shame you never bothered to complete this project.

[@TheCrazzyToobinator]

Actually I did get it "almost" completed... the entire machine has been rebuilt (including the mechanism, the tormat control unit and the amplifier)... I had it going and sounding really good for a couple of weeks until the stupid clutch went out of calibration and started slipping. Havn't had the time to get back to recalibrating it let alone to make an in depth video about how to do it... partially because I have forgotten how to do it and will have to dig through the step by step instructions in the manual I have. Anyways I did start working on a video on how to convert the 25 watt version of the amplifier from germanium transistors into cheaper more obtainable silicon devices which I have no idea where I will fit into this series of restoration videos since I sort of gave up on doing them a while ago. But on the bright side I found out that it is very feasable to convert the amplifier to use "modern" driver and output transistors by adjusting the biasing network to push more current through them and since germanium ones require much less voltage to bias them. The amp sounds clean and undistorted with the new parts so I guess that is all that matters!