Segmented Bowl Clamp Handle

[@toshibavoodoo]

I find my stress level drastically decreases as I watch your show... Thanks.

[@120Livi]

you're not alone, like therapy for modern life

[@gustavo13k]

Better than therapy

[@michaelcurley7801]

+toshibavoodoo This phenomenon is called ASMR. Do a search in You-Tube and find ASMR videos. Maria of GentleWhispering is a good place to start.

[@Samtagri]

So true.

[@hebierob]

Been meaning to tell you sir for months how much your your videos help me and how much I enjoy them! You have a certain unmistakable genius!

[@vallejokid1968]

My dad welded a nut to a pair of Vise Grips then cut the nut in half. That way he could quickly clamp the nut where he needed it on the rod then spin the tool to tighten it. His contraption was used for holding cabinets in the air when working alone. Worked great.

[@johntenhundfeld1529]

Glad to see I am not the only one who has lapses of thought. Primary concern was to have a handle with a lot of torque. Secondary concern was lost in the shuffle--the rings still have to fit over the nut. Thanks for sharing. The whole process has been fun to see as I am not a turner. The bowl was a great testament to marriage and a great gift.

[@excession777]

I am impressed about how quickly you've incorporated your massive CNC machine into your projects. As ever, a brilliant gem to brighten up ones day, keep on keeping on.

[@warrenwilson7836]

Thank you, Frank. I really enjoy your approach to designing solutions -- and the way your videography and post-processing skills create such a pleasing narrative.

[@rolliekelly6783]

Frank, your elegant solution certainly demonstrates the vast difference between a talented designer and a lazy hack such as I. Beautiful solution, Rollie

[@Everythingisgoingtobealright]

I love that share your thought process, your mistakes and the things that don't come out perfect (welds). Makes me feel better about my projects. Thank you, keep on doing what your doing.

[@CraigH999]

Your videos are works of art about your artful work!

[@ScottHampshire]

You're always good at finding solutions to interesting problems that come up. Thanks for being an inspiration Frank, I really love your work.

[@viruskid666111]

Great as always Frank! informative and entertaining.

[@1975mtl]

Frank, your handle looks just like one of the flowers on the side of the mystery van... great idea incorporating the handle and nut in one.

[@MrRobhadfield]

I love the pace of your videos Frank - as someone else said it lowers stress levels watching you work. Even when it doesn't go to plan ;)

[@ShawneeUnion]

for some reason I really like the composition at 1:30. The dark and light work well and the yellow jacket really pops.

[@tomhutchinson6539]

YAY, Frank's uploaded :)

[@bulkhead]

Fantastic engineering thought process. The weak link in the chain is the rotation to apply the force. A hydraulic bench press seems like the best solution to me. Short of that maybe a skateboard bearing would reduce the rotation ahead of the washer. I look forward to your videos every week Frank, thank you for doing what you do.

[@osfurniturepty7709]

As always every single detail is awesome. !!! Love it

[@Rasproc]

That's really cool. You could always make the metal plate the bolts are attached to small enough to fit through the smallest ring. Then make the wooden handle detachable. Like just leave the bolts on the plate pass through the wooden handle but don't bolt them on. That way you don't have to unthread it every time.

[@Barrysworkshop]

Looks like a nicer solution than using a wrench every time. It's nice to watch how your approach is evolving.

[@bigbluemsp]

Frank you are a absolute Genius

[@craigreichert7273]

Although I'm not a fan of the brevity of some of these videos (this one covered everything you wanted to cover), I DO enjoy the frequency of the videos. I realize that the two are related. I'll shut up now. I enjoy your videos Frank!

[@jbb5470]

Great solution Frank! Pretty cleaver

[@PaulTunnicliffeChannel]

That clamp system is brilliant Frank. The issue that you had with the weld would most likley be the Zinc coating on the plate which is a nightmare to weld through and will contaminate the weld not to mention the zinc oxide it gives off. I usually grind back to bare metal where I'll be welding. I hope that helps. Again great work and that CNC is awesome.

[@mihumus]

Great idea, very nice clamp Frank.

[@ponkkaa]

Quite clever. You have a beautiful shop.

[@waynegoebel395]

It's gratifying and somewhat wondrous to watch a simple idea evolve. I had suggested that you utilize the hole at the bottom of your bowl with this type of clamp back in the comments of the "omni-directional video experiment" (which, by the way, I thought was very cool; like being there). Or maybe the following one. Whichever one it was, you've certainly taken it to the "Matthais" degree. Frank certainly Makes. Well done as always.

[@TCP0011708]

Great video, please keep them coming !

[@joevitale2796]

You hit 200,000 subscribers! Congrats!! More stop motion please!

[@tomfafard]

Love the handle Frank

[@webslinger67]

Good stuff Frank. Keep up the great videos.

[@JeremyMcMahan]

Fun project Frank. (You could just get a few "coupling nuts" and use short sections of the threaded rod to make the length you need for any particular project.)

[@Zombieoutrunner]

Very cool Frank. I will be making one of those for me.

[@Mr2at]

As ever, a little gem of pleasure in an otherwise harsh reality.

[@bengy1977]

Your'e a very clever man. Really enjoy your videos.

[@stepcorngrumbleteats7683]

I think you're the Richard Feynman of shop processes...Great video.

[@johnbouttell5827]

Good sound effects, especially the final 'clunk'

[@tuloca011]

you deserve all the likes in youtube

[@xanokothe]

Looks like you are loving the CNC, good work!

[@ErikAnderson1]

Nice looking Frank!

[@loayabu-husein8864]

good stuff as usual. two ideas. 1) if you want longer rod you can buy an extension nut and simply thread it over the rod, then thread another rod into it. 2) instead of using a threaded rod, why not do away with that and use a smooth rod and a cam clamp that quickly moves up and down to where you need to clamp. just two cent's worth. love your channel. best regards,

[@MrAberbabber]

Love your work Frank. I would have just superglued the washer to the nut, but I am lazy 😋

[@KebDrajver]

Hi Frank, just an idea: you could use a long rod, just make a hole in your workbench and run a rod through it, screw it to the "negative" side, so you can always adjust the hight due to the depth of a bowl. Love your work, man!

[@MikeWaldt]

Nice video Frank, very interesting solution. Cheers Mike

[@TheBeerbelly007]

Nice solution Frank---

[@Wawwy]

Love the clamp. I had a thought on how to avoid the threaded rod swap and the endless spinning to get the handle on and off. Cut the bold in half and fabricate a quick release cam like those on a Metal chop saw so you can quickly slip the handle down the rod then engage the Half bolt onto the threads and snug it up. Just an idea. keep up the beautiful work.

[@howardmcewen]

Congrats on 200,000!

[@kortt]

Good video. I think I would have done something like a T handle that fit over the nut and plate....something like a die handle fitting over a die. Keep 'em coming Frank!

[@jakobhovman]

Frank the Inventor...! Nice to see your honest workflow. Next generation: Turn the problem on its head...! Why not turn the bolt (different lengths) and have a stationary nut in the base...? Also: Look at the split nut in your big Compass... another great solution. But All my cells, including all of the three in my brain chant: "Bar clamp...Bar clamp"...! Best of luck with this project.

[@Traderjoe]

Instead of a threaded rod, could you use a flat rod like the kind of rod that's in a bar clamp and then modify a bar clamps squeeze gripper to bear pressure downward by squeezing the gripper, and take advantage of the rapid adjustment action that is one of the pleasures of using bar clamps?

[@LabRatJason]

Consider bending the bottom of that allthread into a "J" hook, and swapping the welded nut for a cross-bar. Then you can unhook the entire holddown plate assembly after loosening, and just pull it out the top. Drop a few rings on, and re-hook it and thread it down again. Great project though.. I've wanted to do a segmented bowl for a long time, this might just be the thing to get me there! Thanks!

[@DanCarman]

I'd love to see a bowl utilizing the giant two foot rod!

[@stevesus3295]

I wonder if you could make a removable handle into a form of socket wrench to slip over the square flat metal square with the attached bolt. Then it could be easily lifted up and off the all-thread. Another thought is similar to the Harbor Freight metal cutoff saw. The vice has a hinged lift-up half nut allowing the user to easily slide back the clamp.

[@NikolaiPozdniakov]

Blast it with compressed air to spin handle either ways. Will be fast and fun. Your kids will enjoy doing it too.

[@bartonrobinson4266]

Nice..shorter rod make for less stress on the ankles stretching upwards to put it on and no ladder needed too; if you ever make a bowl and need a bolt that long..all I can say is Rotsa Ruck..cool fix !!

[@lv_woodturner3899]

Good looking handle. I think a future enhancement is a split nut so you can slide the handle on and off without screwing on or off. Metal lathes have such a device called "half nuts" which engage the feed screw. I can make the split nuts for you if you can come up with a way to press the two halves together then tighten the handle to the rings.

[@TheManLab]

You could of threaded the metal plate then used countersunk screws to make the finished piece a bit cleaner. Nice workshop btw! Keep the videos coming!

[@taikendive]

my two cents.. find a 2-3"x 1/8 thick washer that will fit a little bigger then the nut. cut out a section to match the space on the wood piece. inlay the washer(optional I guess) and epoxy into place and then there will be no over time damage to the wood from the nut. love your work by the way. keep it up

[@doubledarefan]

Instead of cutting the rod in 1/2, cut it about 3/4" above the base, and replace the nut on the base with a coupling nut. The rod can be hand-tightened into the coupling nut, and then the clamp can be put to work. BTW, the shape of the clamp handle looks like you gave it a Splat!

[@josejmourente]

Frank, eres un profesional

[@nathanhawkes6885]

I like what you are doing here...I was thinking you might be able to cut a smaller profile of the large handle that is "inlayed" into the large handle. This would allow you to quickly remove the outer large handle and not remove the inlayed smaller piece (which would house the nut section) I have been considering a bunch of turned bowls that would utilize parts cut from my CNC...There is some great potential.

[@upriders1]

what i think would be pretty handy and also fun is that you could add some mass to the handles so it has more momentum to go almost by it self up and down. I hope you understand what i mean :) And as Always great idea and great video

[@frankmakes]

+upriders1 I like that idea

[@dannyjepp985]

+frank howarth If you're going to take the time to make weighted handles, why not make one universal slide on knob that drops onto smaller threaded plates. That way you could make multiple clamping plates that all use one knob. Use the CNC to cut holes for some steel pins so the knob will fit on in any orientation.

[@Samtagri]

If you add mass make sure you put most of it on the outside of the handles and away of the center to get maximum spinningness. We need a physicist to explain why, but for now just trust me on it.

[@upriders1]

+Samtagri i agree with you, youre right

[@ltbigc]

+Samtagri I think you would want most of the weight towards the center.

[@alialg1621]

you are genius👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@johncnorris]

Where do you think bowl technology will be in 10 years?

[@The_Osprey]

+John Norris ROFLMAO...

[@AgentWest]

Most, if not all large C claps these days have a release button (or a lever, in some cases) to make it faster to adjust. You should build a release like that for this handle. You would need to get a large enough coupling nut and cut it in half longways. Then affix one half directly to the handle and add a small wedge to other half. Then add a receptacle for this half onto the handle. Now with both halves of the coupling nut in place it would act as a normal nut, tightening down as you turn it. When you need to remove the handle simply loosen it enough so you can remove the wedged insert and the handle will slide off easily.

[@advicevice]

Love your videos, but wouldn't it have been easier to put a second nut roughly below the top of the assembled bowl to prevent the washer from falling down?

[@brianl9342]

How about hinges on the handles, let them flip up when you need to add a ring? Or put threads on the handles so they can be removed from the center wheel like a feed handle on a drill press.

[@heelf5277]

1:59 AS AN WELDER, YOU ARE A great WOODTURNER...

[@r1master]

*applause* so much good stuff Frank, thank you. What about getting a rod with... now sure how to say this (new guy over here) a rod with a wider thread??? so each turn gets lower faster?? maybe... When I (if I) eventually get a place with a garage and setup some tools i will come back again and again for all your cool stuff. Thank you Sir.

[@jonathan__g]

I know it probably isn't necessary but I would have to think that a vertical handle of some sort that attaches to the flat part would get you better tightening against the rings and make it easier to loosen after. Such as instead of it being so wide it could of been a little taller. Great video though nonetheless!

[@UberAlphaSirus]

you could make the bottom of the threaded rod into a T. And the cut a slot in the base for the T to pass thru. insert T do a half turn, T sits in a shallow groove when tightening to prevent it turning.

[@BobBlarneystone]

I wonder if a heavy-duty lazysusan (or a thrust bearing) placed under the handle would make it both easier to turn and distribute the pressure. Also, a half-nut mechanism such as is used in quick release vise mechanisms might be useful.

[@GermanASLchannel]

Hey Frank! Thank's for filming! Wondering why you wear dust protection using the sander or the tablesaw. Why don't you use ear protection when using the angegrinder? What about eye protection?

[@MarcSchaefermeyer]

Excellent!

[@HomeDistiller]

just flip the wooden handle to the top, and use the square metal washer with the nut welded to it as your bearing surface. counter sink the holes though the washer on the bottom, then tack (weld) some screws in the holes and grind it flush (that way they stay in place, have a smooth bearing surface and are strong). then just drop the handle over the main threaded rod onto the washer and the screws..

[@HomeDistiller]

+HomeDistiller lol it seems +Danny Jepp has the same idea

[@JohnChapman7]

much nicer than a wingnut!

[@joetheturtle]

A good video idea would be writing a program for the CNC machine, would love to see how you write some lines for it!

[@AKendall808]

What about instead of a threaded rod you were to use a squeeze clamp with say a hook on the bottom plate? You could slide the squeeze clamp up and down as normal and the rod could reach into the rings and connect via a hood on the bottom plate and could thus be easily removed. I know there would be a loss in clamping pressure but I'm sure if you got a quality clamp it would provide some good pressure.

[@robertkutz]

frank nice jig.

[@MrMnchstr]

Tap the plate with the nut and use countersink (countersunk?) screws and ground them flush on the top. Nice and clean, no nuts required.

[@gilgrace1915]

I just found this video and I like the concept. I have an idea for the tightening nut. My metal chop saw has a quick release mechanism to make the clamp move in and out easily. This would fix the problem of having to spin the nut off to add each new ring. I don't think it would be too difficult to adapt something like this into your design. I can send a photo if you like or you could have a look at a chop saw in a Home Depot or a Harbor Freight store to see the mechanism.

[@nateauld]

Does the friction from the clamp spinning into final position ever move the bottom ring(s) of the bowl out of alignment? Other than the problem you addressed, that's the only obstacle I can imagine.

[@georgebell7103]

I enjoy your videos. This s the first time I noted bad design.... Just solder a washer to the bolt and call it good.

[@gregaltenhofel7326]

Very cool, much better

[@dennisbinyon9023]

Gday frank thanks for your posts. Have you ever thought about doing a welding course? It makes life so much easier knowing how to weld and grind.

[@artemiasalina1860]

You can use extension nuts to connect short lengths of rod together to make an arbitrarily long rod...

[@tonymontgomery1033]

Not to be too critical of your work, but have you considered that the tops of your carriage bolts will be making contact with your pressure plate rather than the entire surface of the wooden handle? Do you think that it will make a difference or do you think you should countersink the heads of the bolts? I love watching your work. I hope to be able to do some of the stuff you do one day.

[@frankmakes]

+Tony Montgomery That was the plan but they look like they are below the raised ring in the center.

[@whitewolf8758]

+frank howarth i was wondering if adding a ring glued to the bottom of the handle say like an inch thick then you would have better gripping power to tightened with your fingers wrapped over and under each handle? the ring would make full contact around onto the clamp piece.

[@ScrapwoodCity]

Nice!

[@TheBikerScout]

You should probably countersink the bolt heads so the whole flower handle presses evenly on the top plate. As it sits, it looks like only the 4 bolt heads are making contact.

[@StoneGarage]

did I miss the part where the bolt heads were recessed? if not do you find they are making contact first? Also to avoid all that threading you could put a 3 inch coupling nut at the base and make the rod removable with a double nut handle at the top. the coupling nut would keep your 90% and the handle at the top would give a quick release.

[@StoneGarage]

but that is still an awesome clamp!

[@stephenpetrie7576]

Does the walk on, scurry off clamp have a name Frank?Is there a story behind the clamps that you use?Love the interaction of high precision and low precision that shed time usually has.

[@BrianJNoah]

What about a quick-release rod? So the rod detaches from the base with a push of a button?

[@Nighthawkinlight]

+Brian Noah There's a good idea.

[@PyroShim]

+Brian Noah Or a spit nut. Then you don't have to worry about keeping the rod square to the base if your tolerances are off.

[@timkemp]

+Brian Noah Or a smooth rod. Put a chunk of externally threaded pipe in the nut in the handle. Slide the pipe/handle assembly over the smooth rod, clamp some vice-grips above the pipe and spin it tight. Might need to cut some notches at the top of the pipe to keep it from spinning against the vice-grips.

[@patsullivan9399]

+PyroShim Split nut... that's what I was thinking. Weld a nut in the jaws of a small vise-grips, then saw the nut in half. Then weld the vise-grips' non moving jaw to the metal plate.

[@justindesilets3526]

you can also find a threaded clip which can be used as a nut and is easily removable from threaded rod. don't know how it is called but I have seen that few times at work (aerospace industry). worth checking it out.

[@CRTF4Z]

good job. very clever. C.Reuter

[@Cactusworkshopchannel]

Awesome video! Why not just make the center threaded rod detachable? That would only need to be threaded the length of a nut and you dont need it to be fully fixed or totally square to do a good job as long as the clamp handle seats properly. You don't need to fix that degree of freedom so to speak :) (I think)

[@holdemNE1]

I'm thinking 2 handles (similar to a draw knife) sticking up from it so you can really crank it down instead of having to rely on finger power around the skinny edges.

[@zeroy]

Yeah but you had to use the wrench to fasten the 4 bolts? You should make handles for those too :) - nice project! On the weld, you could have tapped a thicker metal plate too.

[@flemminglvbo1176]

You can use the water pipes as thick slices when you need to glue your bowls together

[@scottbarber7256]

if you change to acme treaded rod it will work much better and faster

[@georges8348]

Have you considered a push button nut Frank? It's a quick release nut the type you find on newer drill press depth stop rods.

[@BigAdam2050]

Grinder makes me the welder I ain't.

[@Chadbordeleau]

You left out "and paint"

[@scott98390]

I saw plans for a speed vise that called for cutting a nut in half; squeezing the release pulled the nut away from the rod and let the jaw slide out... which would a pain in the butt to implement on this, but there it is anyway. ;-)