Seismic Retrofitting Bolted Homes

[@rajeshdevadasan5588]

Thanks so much this is so helpful

[@lmadigital]

Yes, you are reaching people and it does help!

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Glad to hear that!

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Earthquake Bolt and Brace requires use of Standard Plan A or the Los Angeles standard which do have shear transfer ties by a different name. You can buy a cheap palm nailer and rent a compressor.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

That is right. Rebolting takes about the same amount of time and a lot of times the floor framing covers the bolts.

[@athenistrakis2032]

I reside in Oregon where we are vulnerable to an expected and extremely powerful earthquake due to the Cascadia subduction zone off our coast. Though our building codes may differ. I found this video to be very informative on how to mitigate home damage from seismic activity

[@donaldlee6760]

At 14:24 - I assume trying to fill the gap with epoxy or set of various-sized and shaped thin cylindrical metal sleeves is not a recommended fix to the oversized hole problem?

[@AshuPande-i4i]

Extremely helpgul Howard. Thank you.

[@whencani]

I think I have watched a dozen of your videos since last night. I find them very helpful to understand the whats and whys of bolting a house. I went in to my crawlspace today to see if I could DIY it. I could, but I won't...but it helps me know what to expect from contractors. Thanks so much!

[@howardcook1877]

I am glad to hear that. The videos have served their purpose.

[@infocook4854]

happy to help

[@noeaparicio7875]

Very usefull material sir greatly appreciated thank you

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Glad it was helpful! Please subscribe to the channle.

[@nathansarahkotzur6792]

Very Helpful video…. Thankyou

[@margaretferguson8626]

Information very good! Now I understand so much more of what is needed and what is not needed or useful in an earthquake. Would very much like you to do the retrofit in my house. Will contact you today.

[@davidiliyn]

Great video! Working on a retrofit on my 1948 house in Oregon... Fun stuff :) Thanks man!

[@daniellicon246]

Extremely Helpful. Getting into retrofitting on my own and your videos have been great.! Thanks

[@alanmillar2905]

For the oversized bolt holes, couldn't you just fill the gap with epoxy, then install a 3-inch bearing plate? Seems like that would be quicker than installing a whole new bolt.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Putting in a new bolt is easier. I used to do it the way you described.

[@JoseOropeza-b1p]

Thank you for all your work! How do we distribute pounds of force when we don’t have a perfect rectangle or perfect square? Meaning we have little walls, more that 4 corners, and mudsill breaks. Thanks

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Just pretend each rectangle needs its own retrofit

[@SeanCMedina]

Thank you Howard for explaining why existing bolts are considered inadequate - especially ones pre-1999. Your explanation of how oversized holes cause bolts to not work together, makes great sense.

[@diamondrocinc]

You mentioned, "re-bolting the mud sill after an oversized hole" Are you saying that one should cut out the mud sill and repair and re-bolt? Just so we are clear.. thanks.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

No, it means ignore the bolts with the oversized holes because anything over 1/16" is a code violation. Make sure they are oversized. If not you can consider effective and include their capacity in your calculations. Please subscribe to the channel.

[@diduknow99]

Thank you for making this video. It helps a lot.

[@ef7388]

Thank you for making the video... Retrofitting my 1996 Oregon D1 zone house I built. Real eyeopener!

[@BoundaryElephant]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@howardcook6432]

Please help the channel by subscribing

[@maryferrell-wyman2671]

Thank you. We are planing a seismic retrofit of a 1400 sf lake cottage on a steep lot. The foundation is accessible on the down hill side of the house. This leaves 50% of the foundation only accessible from outside the house. Any suggestions?

[@infocook4854]

Check with the USGS and see what seismic zone you are in based on the Modified Mercalli Scale and see if it worth the bother.

[@bobbycrosby9765]

I've watched a bunch of your videos and love them. Do you ever do slab on grade retrofits? I used to live in the Bay Area and never really saw those style houses, but I'm in Southern California now and they're all over the place. I currently live in one built in the '70s and I'm trying to figure out what might need to be done to it so I don't have to go into this blind.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

All the walls are bolted 6 feet apart. There is nothing to do.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Good idea but I would need to create the videos all over again and this is a ton of work.

[@MichaelLernerAtHomebodies]

Hi, I have one of those bolted homes you are referring to. I'm pretty clear on how to install retro fnd plates, but it's the sheer transfer plates that have me questioning. When there's no room to nail in the plates, what do you propose? Ive only see one video showing how to do this and it involves a palm hammer air tool, and compressor, which I dont have. If everyone was installing sheer transfer plates, seems I would find more about this. Also, CA bolt and brace doesn't mention sheer transfer plates at all. And when a bolt and brace contractor came to my home to do an estimate, he didnt mention sheer transfer plates at all. Would you recommend using screws and a right angle drilling tool for installing the plates?

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

You are stuck with a palm nailer. Rent one.

[@timr1810]

Your videos are great! very informative. One suggestion i would make is list the actual parts, bolts, screws, hold-downs, etc in the Show more section above. Along with a link to where they can be purchased. Many sites do this and they wind up getting paid every time some viewer like myself clicks on the link and buys the part - thanks

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

I appreciate it when someone tells me one of my videos helped them.

[@ellenturner4408]

I live in a 2 story home with full basement built in 1932. I have no bolts. I will be using anchor plates on mudsill to foundation. I will be using clips to attach end joists and rim joists to sill plate. However I am unable to access the south wall end joist to mudsill connection due to a joist falls just on the edge of the sill plate. Is there a strategy for accessing that connection from the outside of the building? I really appreciate all the videos.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Do it like this bayarearetrofit.com/retrofit-framing-anchor-installations/

[@ellenturner4408]

@@bayarearetrofit5814 Thank You!

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Glad to help. If you could write a positive YELP review and subscribe to the channel I would be appreciative.

[@clytriftg]

Thank you for this information. As a new first time homeowner in the Bay Area this is super helpful.

[@chrissilkwood5439]

Great video - two questions... 1 - sheer transfer ties were added to the top and bottom of the diagram, but why not to the other sides? 2 - are hurricane ties a good idea for securing floor joists to support beams and the mud sill (my mud sill is flush with the concrete)?

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

1 - sheer transfer ties were added to the top and bottom of the diagram, but why not to the other sides? 2 - are hurricane ties a good idea for securing floor joists to support beams and the mud sill (my mud sill is flush with the concrete)?

[@davidallantodd7999]

Just reviewed from Pacifica in our Linda Mar rancher. This house seems sturdy, but we want to be double sure. Calling your company now. Thanks!

[@stevecamuti5746]

You misspelled "Carpenter's Elbow", and nice video, appreciate the detail

[@georgedewey6439]

This was a great video - really thoughtful and really clear. Is a DIY retrofit of this type a permitted project? This seems like a great DIY especially if it only takes a day or so as you stated

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

The building department always wants your money and they will not crawl under your house to look. Best just to send them a donation and forget the charade.

[@brianjennings7824]

Hi Howard. I also have found your videos very helpful. Very helpful to know that my current bolt (which look identical to the ones in this video) are likely sized incorrectly for the holes. Going to look to redo them. Also very helpful to know that my posts are fine without needing additional T straps. One question I have related to the height of my basement/garage walls. My house is a typical 3-story SF Edwardian (25' x 40') with a garage on the first floor, and two levels of living space above. The garage walls are 6'2" to 6'8". Is it generally recommended to built shear walls for this setup as well? If so would you recommend 1/2" S1 or 3/4" S1 for the plywood? Thanks again for all the knowledge and learning that you take the time to put out into the world!! We're here and we do hear you.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

How wide at the walls

[@brianjennings7824]

@@bayarearetrofit5814 The main walls run the depth of the house along each side of the garage about 40' long. The back wall is 25' wide and has a door to the back yard and two windows. The front of the house doesn't have a lot of wall space and seem pretty vulnerable - it has a side door for the garage, the garage door and a void space that sits beneath the stairs that lead up to the house. I'd say the front wall has about 8' of wall space.

[@bayarearetrofit5814]

Put a shear wall there. I won't be enough but a lot cheaper than a steel column. Please be sure and subscribe to my channel