Sequence is Everything for Small Parts

[@mrc1539]

Having broken many small taps over the years , I held my breath the whole time you were taping. The feel is everything , and brass seems to be the one material that I have the most trouble with. Thanks for showing how it’s done.

[@billy19461]

You make everything look so simple and easy. And everyone knows that is not the case. Years of experience and the mark of a true craftsman. Well done Joe Pie!

[@joepie221]

Thanks you.

[@delstone1919]

Great educational video again, Joe. An excellent tip about reversing the tap before re-entry to align the pitch, which I have been using for years without really realising why.

[@jrkorman]

Dad taught me that years ago when I would be helping him on the car. Using a tap to clean some threads and even more important, when starting spark plugs! He was a machinist, so taught my why I should do it that way too!

[@ianrobinson509]

Thanks Joe. As an ex Jeweller of 26 years, used to making small parts with very small taps, this was an eye-opener. For a start I never realised my tap follower had TWO modes(tips)! And the multiple pressure springs is such a good idea. The little knurled tap holder is an excellent accessory, I won't use my tap wrench ever again.

[@joepie221]

Those additions to your process will certainly change the game for you. You'll love the increase in feedback from your small tools.

[@roadshowautosports]

22:05 it’s an excellent safety tip and many times professionals forget to teach them, as it is so natural the actions they’re taking that it becomes “implied” nobody would be stupid enough to do it but, being someone who’s been injured by that very same assumption, I know how much it hurts and how much it lasts that one second of dumbness we all have when we just don’t know better! Thank you Mr. Pie!

[@ednichols2748]

here's a trick I use to remove those sharp thin part-off burrs: my Kurt mill vise has hard jaws with sharp square edges. Set the jaws just wide enough for the part to have a snug fit between them. Use a soft mallet to tap the part down between the jaws, cleanly shearing off the burr. This works very well for plastic, aluminum, brass, and free cutting steel like 12L14 & 303 stainless. And it is fast if you have multiple batch of parts. Nice job with your videos , thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍

[@farmalltomf]

Joe, another outstanding vid and emphasis on "order of operation". One of my biggest challenges in training people over the past 40 years has been, "don't think about the current operation, think about the next one, and how it impacts the current one". Just another great perspective to share. Well played.

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Great video and machining, that nut is miniscule! You are the master machinist, thank you!

[@scootypuffsr.2277]

Master machinist... or a WITCH!!!!!!

[@claywells662]

Thanks for the reverse trick with the tap, great idea for bolts and screws too.

[@Motor-City-Mike]

Process IS absolutely everything. I used to turn custom 6061 aluminum metering rods for motorcycle carburetors on a conventional lathe. There was exactly one sequence of operations that was successful.

[@joepie221]

Its great once you find it.

[@Motor-City-Mike]

@@joepie221 Yes, very seldom will someone tell you, you have to figure it out for yourself

[@allensooter8429]

Hi Joe, I have a friend that makes nuts, screws and gears for pocket watches, Most of his work is under a microscope, and must be very careful not to fart or it will blow his part away. Very nice operation on this small part.

[@joepie221]

I did my formal apprenticeship in a company that specialized in the internal components of electronic watches back in the 70's. I built the fixtures and holding devices for the crowns, stems, gears and seals for watches. I get it. PS...never go to work with a hangover. Wearing a magnifier all day while semi nauseous is a real bummer.

[@allensooter8429]

@@joepie221 Oh crap, that would be a problem.

[@trevorjarvis3050]

I always had a box of wooden toothpicks handy to use a “catcher” of the tiny bushings, ferrules and what not I was parting off. Under the parting tool, I had a shallow tray with a layer of grease in it to catch the part and try to keep it from disappearing down into the abyss should it get away from me.

[@johndonlan5956]

Been there...... Definitely done that..... All too often! The layer of grease in the tray is a great idea!!!! 😉

[@garyhardman8369]

Great instructive video, as always. Really good tip about reversing the tap direction, when re-engaging a thread. I did not know this. Thank you Joe.

[@johndonlan5956]

I used to program CNC vertical and horizontal machining centers, 4-axis double turret lathes, 5-axis screw machines..... And I can testify that sequence is everything! As a rule of thumb I would try to get all of my heavy machining done while the part was still very beefy...... And then only the more delicate work when the part had thinned out and was less rigid. You're so right Joe..... The order in which you do your machining makes all the difference between success or failure. The saddest thing to face is when you have a part that's ready for its next machining operation and there's not enough material to properly hold it securely. You find yourself saying "darn, I should have done that the other way around..... I should have done that other operation first...". It's so important to take the time in the beginning to carefully think out every step of the machining process, making sure of how you will hold the part and that it will be strong enough to withstand the pressures and possible deflection of the next operation. It's like playing a chess game..... You have to think ahead. This is a great video!

[@joepie221]

I appreciate the comment. Thanks.

[@peteengard9966]

Great video Joe. Can't wait to see the final product. The chain and bucket videos were awesome too! Thank you.

[@joepie221]

thanks. That bucket was fun to do.

[@TheTsunamijuan]

Thanks again for making these videos, and taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with us.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching. I hope I earned a subscription.

[@TheTsunamijuan]

@@joepie221 I think you earned it about 6 months ago from me. Shortly after I saw one of my first videos from you.

[@vincei4252]

Man, that knurled tap guide is nice. Now I want to go make one and go tap some small holes just for the hell of it. Thanks for -another- more great tips, Joe!

[@brucec954]

Very useful video for me as I am scratch building an HO steam loco. Turns out its a lot harder making very small parts than the same part in a larger dimension.

[@joeziegler9054]

Another great video Joe! Thanks or sharing your wisdom with us. Its always great to see another machinist working in their shop and the methods they use to get the work done. Keep up the great work sir!!

[@johnswilley6764]

More Pearls of wisdom from the Master, Joe thank you so much, I always learn something from you. Best wishes!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@anneinfurna8528]

You can save one of the steps in a production by putting a 45 Degree angle at the back end of your parting tool-it automatically chamfers the part at the back as you part it off. Also you can grind a notch in the front of the parting tool to cleanly part it off with no burr--even with the thread hole there. Love your videos, Sir!

[@billchiasson2019]

Great video, love your common sense approach to machining, always learn Somthing! Thank you Joe.

[@craigtate5930]

Love your lil tap holder and guide setup

[@joepie221]

Great feedback while tapping.

[@arnoldsmachinetool4632]

Great information. Actually paused the video. Went and made the tap holder. The feedback you receive is outstanding.

[@joepie221]

it will give you great confidence with smaller taps. You'll use it a lot.

[@jabramo340]

More great stuff Joe. I make tiny parts like this all the time, but I still learned some things.

[@joepie221]

I try to work in a tip on every video. Thanks.

[@sblack48]

Your tapered bushing/collet thingy to hold the cannon from the last vid was genius. This is cool too.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Just don't move the compound between the part and collar prep and be sure the turning and boring tools are on center. It should work out well.

[@rickmellor]

"now you're smarter" ... that pretty much sums up the effect of Joe's videos.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Thats always the plan.

[@ronwilken5219]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKnde2qJebRrkKc

[@ronwilken5219]

Joe, your suggestion of turning the tap backwards to the "click" also applies when reassembling any plastic item that has coarse thread screws, self tapping I call them, turn the screw backwards until you feel the first thread drop into the mating thread. That way you don't cut a new thread and you avoid shattering the plastic post into which the screw is being driven. This reminds me of the story of the Swiss watch maker who drilled, tapped and made a screw to fit into the end of the smallest screw that an American company bragged they had made as being the smallest possible.

[@joepie221]

Thats the best trick you can teach a young mechanically inclined person.

[@carloeffigiati7275]

You don't mess with Swiss watch maker.

[@loydsa]

Wow Joe, I am looking forward to the single point video :-)

[@joepie221]

It should be fun. This stuff is getting too small to film it.

[@larrybarnes3920]

I've been using the old turn the bolt backwards until it clicks trick for years. I find it particularly handy when I can't see the bolt, oil fitting or whatever I'm installing.

[@joepie221]

Its a good one to pass on.

[@alexvonbosse5090]

How small is small? Small is not a problem! Where there is a will mixed with the proper skill level and necessary knowledge, most anything can be accomplished! And you just gave proof that you have what it takes! Thanks Joe for sharing!

[@joepie221]

Thank you. I could go much smaller, but I'd need a camera microscope to share it with you guys.

[@markhobster8113]

Great stuff, I didn't even know there are threads inside 5c collets until yesterday and now I know a good use for them, also that spring plunger for tapping fine threads is a good build thanks a lot for showing small things which are like a side story to the main subject, I find I learn a lot more that way other than just showing something being made without details.

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Great vid Joe, loads of good info, I do the reverse screw on most of my screw insertions but never thought of using it to tap. TFS, G :)

[@joepie221]

Especially handy in softer materials.

[@steveclark..]

Always great videos from Joe, look forward to part 2.

[@cogentdynamics]

your videos are so awesome! some things you show I know and still enjoy hearing again "take your tools out of the machine when using hand tools!" i learned that one while pulling a small part out of a 5C collet with pliers while still having the #55 drill bit (jobber length) in the tail stock... the drill went into the side of my palm to full depth. Much respect to you sir!

[@bhartwigutube]

Nice! Just read the comment below to see I am not the first to suggest it, but I also sometimes use the drill chuck in the tailstock to hold the wire or rod for catching the pieces while parting - especially if I am trying to two-hand the crossfeed where I am trying to use lots of cutting fluid and want to keep my brush in place.

[@cpcoark]

Good as always Joe. Why not put a small dimple in the end of your stop so the nib doesn't affect your spacing?

[@joepie221]

I have those too. Good comment.

[@carlpenney901]

I am learning so much form you! Thanks again for these video's.

[@joepie221]

Excellent.

[@Changtent]

Great video again Joe. Several good tips I picked up there. As far as "loosing your part on the floor" - have you got that pet wolf spider trained to recover parts for you yet? He's got to earn his keep if you take time to clean his feet like you did in an earlier video.

[@joepie221]

When I drop a small part, I turn out the shop lights and lay a flashlight on the floor. When the light hits the part, the shadow is 5 feet long. You can't miss that.

[@sierraspecialtyauto7049]

@@joepie221 ...if your floor is otherwise clean. If it's like mine, you see hundreds of 5 foot shadows.

[@Changtent]

@@joepie221 I do that too. Also important to keep the floor clean so that when I drop something, it's not lost in the 'old' mess. I'm sure you do too. Thanks.

[@Changtent]

One of those magnet-on-a-stick part retrievers is a huge help too for anything with iron in it. I always keep one handy.

[@CMAenergy]

Just a thought When parting off small parts like you have done Have you got a magnet with a piece of steel wire And place the wire in the hole and set the other end to the magnet which is attached to a piece of metal that is not going to move, like the head stock , And your hands fingers have nothing attached to anything moving

[@thrustprop67]

Inspiration,, I just want to go out to the garage and make a tap tensioner tool . Lots of innovation in that clip Joe . When I build things I usually find building the tools to make the part was just as much work as the actual project .

[@joepie221]

True. 30 minutes to setup a 2 minute cut.

[@LambertZero]

I had to learn the hard way that it's better to clean the machine before making small parts, rather than after. :-) Once spent like 20 minutes looking for a part in the chip pan.

[@TedRoza]

Hi Joe ... This coupled Video with the miniature cannon would be some of the best Instruction Videos, in regards to precision and How to tap and drill very small Items. Keep up Your Great Work.

[@joepie221]

Maybe I should have made a micro cannon !!

[@highpwr]

Joe I saw a comment you left on a different channel about using different size springs (spring rates) in your tap guide for different size taps to better match the axial force applied to the tap. Seeing it in this video just reminded me that I have a good stash of long lengths of various coil spring stock (Brownells) in different diameters and wire gage sizes. Looks like I have some spring cutting to do! Great idea - thanks.

[@joepie221]

Pretty sure that was a Blondihacks video. Once you cut some down, you'll see what I mean. Makes a huge difference in plastics.

[@beachcomberbob3496]

I put my wire/rod 'part catcher' in a tailstock chuck when parting off. No fingers endangered.

[@joepie221]

Safer the better. Threaded part will grab and form that hook everytime.

[@PaulSteMarie]

@@joepie221 Not only the hook, but the spindle will use that bit of thread like a bolo or a sling and send the part off like a bullet. It takes quite a shot to put an 1/8" deep dent in solid steel.

[@bruceanderson9461]

My son and I learned years ago that you always turn backwards screws that screw into plastic until you get the click before tightening. This is especially important in items that are assembled and disassembled frequently. If you don’t do this you will often wind up with multiple thread paths which eventually lead to a stripped out thread.

[@joepie221]

Sure will. It seems many fathers have shared that with their sons. Good to see.

[@billrichardson4873]

Great stuff Joe, thanks for sharing

[@angelramos-2005]

Excellent.You are getting closer to James A. Lea.Good,good,good.Thank you

[@FKreider]

Awesome stuff as always Joe! A friend of mine just made some 0-80 threads (and their mating parts) on a 14" lathe using a collet, is always cool to see!

[@joepie221]

I've never single pointed such a small thread. Curious to see how it goes.

[@ronringel9132]

Job well done. Thanks for sharing.

[@michaellinahan7740]

Joe, when drilling it looked like the drill bit had to climb to find the center. Could the tail stock be misaligned or was it an optical illusion? I second the comment from Bruce, that reverse feed trick is very important when replacing self taping screws in plastic.

[@joepie221]

Its an old chuck and the jaws probably did that. the camera makes it look worse that it does just looking at it. I'll have to investigate it.

[@planeflyer21]

This will be a good series. My buddy was in a shop where they regularly single-pointed 0-80 parts. He described it as "threading a cooked noodle."

[@joepie221]

I may have finally break down and buy an optivisor.

[@planeflyer21]

@@joepie221 lol Yeah, that's pretty fine thread.

[@garth849]

Hey Joe!,, Here's a fun idea for machinist skill test -- Single-point an ID ought-eighty thread!! Just thinking about it makes makes my head spin, but all I need is someone to tell me that it's IMPOSSIBLE, then I'm headed out to the shop. I had to make several hundered ought-eighty tapped holes in aluminum about 25 years ago, and I actually used a Tapmatic head in the bridgeport ! Pretty nerve-racking stuff. Anyway, if you just single-point an OD ought-eighty I'm impressed enough. Thanks again, Gbristol.

[@Notch90usa]

I've done it. It's definitely not fun. The tool is very fragile.

[@maciekm7953]

Pure gold 👍 Thank you Joe

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

8:00 I thought I was the only one with that annoying drill deflection. Love watching a pro and his experienced advice!

[@chuckphilpot7756]

4:31 Is that a wiper tpmt insert you are using or is it just built up on the corners? Always used to love manually cutting brass. That squealing gets delightfully louder the larger the chipload. 360 brass cuts like butter.

[@TheHunter2506]

bought a 5C spin indexer about three years ago....just found out what is was and what it does!! Thanks Joe

[@joepie221]

Did you watch the video where I made a diamond on a spin indexer?

[@TheHunter2506]

@@joepie221 No missed that one as I did not understand what it was ....Dumb or what!!!

[@roadshowautosports]

Two questions I have, since I’m geared to start with watches: - I don’t know how small machinist drills go but watchmaking have small as tenths of mm, and I use some small drills that I’ve been told are end mill bits and not drills, they have a 3.2 mm shank. Are those really bits? They are as skinny as needles and will go into your finger like one! Don’t ask… - when I first started, the machinist told me to use the center bit, then grab the first drill by the minimum possible on the Chuck, this way it would follow the center hole but, watching your videos, I understand that we must seek for rigidity as far as using stubby drill bits, I’m confused? Thank you for such marvelous content you share! Wish I could be your apprentice and have my own videos series “how to teach a 55 years old to be a machinist!”

[@norwegiangadgetman]

The trick with rotating the tap the wrong way to seat it correctly also works very well with the screew-on lid on my thermos cup. (This is relevant because my cup contains industrial strength tea... Can probably be used as solvent... ) In the case of making hex nuts, those of us that can't afford an indexer can use a Hex Collett block and a milling vise.

[@owenclark7210]

smallest parts I've ever made are my chain post sockets for wooden pocketwatches. 3/16" main diameter with a 1/4"x1/16" top flange and a 3mmx0.5 thread through the middle. Very finicky to do, but it allows me to unthread the chain post from the watch and swap it between different wooden bodies.

[@outsidescrewball]

Great tips

[@joepie221]

Thanks Chuck.

[@mrayco]

Great always joe thumps up every video 👍

[@johnwallace9002]

I use a brass bushing clamped in the drill Chuck in lathe or mill or drill press instead of a spring center so that there is no pressure on the tap. You just need bushings and wheels for #10, #8, and #6 and under.

[@julianlockyear8824]

Very nice work and thank you for sharing your skills.

[@smacknives754]

Would an angled parting insert/blade help solve the ugly "dag" on the end of the part, Joe?, or am I just looking for an excuse to buy more stuff;). As always, thanks for the tips, Joe, Scott.

[@joepie221]

On a non threaded part, that works well. The helix of a thread makes a clean cut almost impossible.

[@smacknives754]

@@joepie221 Thanks, Joe

[@MichaelLloyd]

The small scale of that part was amazing

[@joepie221]

I did a smaller one afterwards, but it was too small to film with my camera. Thanks for watching.

[@MichaelLloyd]

@@joepie221 I only have one of those Chinese mini-lathes (for now) but your work inspired me to try to make some small parts for a 1940's radio battery operated radio (think 90V battery). It's the first real part that had any use that I've tried to make and the first in over a year since I bought the lathe. The dial cord pulleys were made of wood back then and they were "expanded with water" then shrunk to the spindle. There were two pulleys and a spindle. The spindle had 6-32 threads (0.120 long with a .050 relief cut between the threads and the hex), a 1/4" hex flat (.050 deep, I don't have a mill so I started with hex stock), and a .090 diameter spindle (.470 long). The two pulleys were 0.520 diameter, 0.24 at the hub, 0.200 wide, groove width was 0.040, and the hole for the spindle was 0.080. I started with 0.750 stock (because that's all I had). All stock was held in a collet chuck. I had to watch a couple of your videos more than once, improvise some tool bits, and "endeavor to persevere" (Outlaw Josey Wales reference). The pulleys came out right the very first time. I must've measured them a dozen times but they were good so I accepted that I could actually do something right on a lathe and moved on to the spindle. I'd like to say the spindle shaft did too but it took 3 times before I was satisfied. The spindle diameter was a tad too small on the first to. If you see a package come in from me (YT name is real) it's just a little something that I think you can use sent in appreciation of what you do for us. With your help another antique radio will live to sing again. It's boxed up (and small) but getting to the PO before it closes has been a challenge lately. I addressed it to your business btw

[@joepie221]

@@MichaelLloyd Thank you. I'll keep my eyes open for it to arrive.

[@edwardnotebaart5268]

Love your videos! Your tap following guide, did you make it or buy it? Can't find one with a hollow and a pointed end! Can you tell me where to get one like yours?

[@joepie221]

thats a NIROL brand. I bought it.

[@barrygerbracht5077]

I see you have an interesting style of insert tool holder. I'm not sure how much experience you have with various insert styles and ot holders (lathe and or mill) but I would appreciate any insight you may have. I will be getting my lathe and mill later this year and tooling decisions are both daunting and expensive.

[@joepie221]

I like my TPG turning tool because it uses all 3 corners of the insert. More bang for the buck. Many 80 degree diamond shaped inserts used to profile only allow for the use of 4 of the 8 corners. They are great inserts, but unless you have the fore site to buy a milling cutter that utilizes the remaining 4 corners, you are throwing 50% of your money away. Thats something to consider. So look for a pair of cutters that use the same insert and compliment each other across both machines.

[@bwyseymail]

Oh, you are making a little nut. At first glance I thought you were making a crown for the King of Wolf Spiders.

[@RagsdaleCreek]

I would have dropped that part and never found it. Awesome video Joe. Never knew the tap guide had a cone on other end will have to check mine when my health's let's me back in shop.

[@joepie221]

That is probably the best kept secret in the shop.

[@ronwilken5219]

@@joepie221 second. First is where all the little bits you drop disappear to. Like the odd sock in the laundry ☺️🤣

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

Hey Joe, was your career mostly focused on these itty bitty parts making? You seem to enjoy it and obviously you’re quite comfy doing it .

[@joepie221]

I did my apprenticeship in precision miniature components. I cut my teeth making the internal parts for electronic watches back in the 70's. But my business was born of Surgical instruments and scuba camera platforms.

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

@@joepie221 Ahh, no wonder you do such fine work with finesse and dexterity . 😊

[@jamessherrill3454]

That is an awsome video, thanks for sharing.

[@bpark10001]

Comment about 5C collet stops: I have never found them good for doing anything other then cutting off stock to the nearest inch! The shallow taper magnifies any diameter variation of the stock into longitudinal position. I s'pose if you indicated off the face of the collet you would get more repeatable results. This would require turning a face at its outer edge to indicate from.

[@joepie221]

or you could hit nominal and not worry. Just sayin.

[@alangriff1]

Is it more desirable to use a suitable sized collett for turning small parts than the 3 Jaw chuck? Thanks J P

[@joepie221]

Absolutely.

[@fischermann5279]

Depends how accurate ur 3 jaw is and if its adjustable. I have a 3 jaw on my myford I would put against any import 5с collet.

[@bfpenner]

At 5:35 in this video I noticed the center drill jump up to center as it approached the apart. What caused that?

[@joepie221]

Old chuck.

[@danielmorrison7579]

To prevent the damage from when you part off the part, what if you thread in a screw past the point of the part-off, and cut thru it as well. It would have been nice for you to also have rounded off the hex as well.

[@joepie221]

Think about that. The hex nut would initially trap the screw, but when the parting tool broke through the nut ID, it would hit a now unrestrained threaded shaft. The initial contact would most likely stop the screw from rotating. At which time it would want to rapidly screw into the arbor or down the remaining threaded hole. It is possible to rig it up the way you suggest, but plan ahead or get ready for a mouse trap surprise.

[@danielmorrison7579]

@@joepie221 Yes, you are correct. Perhaps brass with some loctite near the end that was going to get removed, or at the point of cut. It was all just a thought. Perhaps in critical situations? I love the work that you are doing. Thanks for the videos.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Make extras if you drop it it could end up anywhere. I saw a video on a the best Japanese lathe operator drill a hole through in a mechanical pencil lead on a lathe. Thanks for sharing

[@joepie221]

saw that too. He must have had great feel for that machine.

[@kirklindstedt2018]

Did you make that work stop for the collett? If so, it might be a quick show to us to see how it was made.

[@kirklindstedt2018]

Joe, I see you answered this in another post. Can you show how you made the stop?

[@joepie221]

That may be a great topic for a video.

[@PaulSteMarie]

10:45 "Any time you're using hand tools on a part in the spindle, remove tooling from your tool post so any movement of your elbow or wrist does not involve a cut". /me looks at 4" cut on wrist and gouged knuckle and nods ruefully. "Parting off through a threaded hole" Oh man, that was scary. Parted off the base of a machinist's jack, about 1¼", threaded 1"-12. Part took off like @Taofledermaus shot it out of a 12ga. After that I started using a half inch catch stick chucked into the tail stock. My soft and tender bits were nowhere nearby!

[@joepie221]

I have seen many peripheral injuries on a lathe from loaded tools. I've also seen that whip and launch scenario you described. they can really pick up some velocity before they let go. It happens very fast.

[@bterzini1]

I’ve been working out a process for making even smaller 0-80 nuts in silver and gold without a flange for use in jewelry. Without a flange I can use a draw plate to form the hex rather than mill. I don’t want to have to chase down gold chips any more than I have to.

[@joepie221]

I used to make watch crowns for some of the worlds most exclusive brands. The entire crown, dome, stem, teeth, logo, were all done in one operation in a die. Boom...done. We started with a BB size gold blank. The only thing machined was the stem thread and maybe a dust seal cut under the head. very little waste, but accounting for it was a super big pain in the a#*

[@bterzini1]

Joe Pieczynski Yeah, the required accountability for working with precious metals in volume is its own workflow.

[@michaeltrumble3858]

Joe how did you measure the depth of the drilled hole when using the sliding drill chuck ?

[@joepie221]

I didn't. I over drilled it based on the part and tap profile.

[@paulinmt2185]

An enjoyable 25 minutes!

[@woodenhead8887]

That was entertaining Joe. The crazy thing is the effort to make a little nut like this isn’t much different than making a bigger nut (within reason). Yet folks asking how much $$ to make some little nuts sometimes have a hard time understanding that lol.

[@joepie221]

That is very true. The first piece is always the most expensive.

[@Amaysing79]

Thank you. Love your videos

[@oldman6495]

I couldn't find part 2 of this So I take it single pointing the mating part didn't go so well?

[@joepie221]

I found out my lathe can't single point 80 tpi. It only allows for 72 as the finest.

[@oldman6495]

@@joepie221 Thats too bad, would liked to have seen it. I am sure you would have made it look easy. Stay safe

[@christurley391]

I suspect Joe's floor is clean enough that that little part would stand out. Lol. The little burr on the back of the brass nut could have been sheared off with a sharp box knife blade then chanfered. Thanks for the video Joe.

[@joepie221]

I took it off with a pair of flush cut wire snips and hit it on some 400 emery. Slight chamfer on the hole by hand, re-ran the tap and done! OH, and you are correct. The floor is very clean. Thanks for the assumption.

[@bpark10001]

Your floating drill looked like it had excessive side-play. it wandered around before "finding" the center. It was jumping up on each penetration. Regarding the "catcher", why not chuck straight wire in your tailstock chuck? You can also use undersize drill bit as catcher. Clippings from paperclips are handy for this for such small parts. You can retract the tailstock after the spindle is stopped. Regarding the tap, use gun taps! They can be threaded straight in without stopping. Just be sure to have enough hole behind.

[@joepie221]

Its a very old drill chuck. The movement seen on camera, was due to the worn jaws.

[@robertspano4468]

Thank you. I noticed that you are using a spiral point tap. Would a spiral flute tap make tapping easier?

[@joepie221]

It does for me, but be aware that type of tap pushes the chips forward.

[@davidkarath6549]

Awesome as usual...😊

[@Wilett614]

LOL SEQUENCE is EVERYTHING when Machining ANY Part !! especially Complicated ones

[@tced2858]

lol....great video...I made a tiny screw in the same fashion for a old double barrel shotgun , I used a die to thread.

[@Ghostwalker71]

If you put a threaded scrap rod into the threaded piece when you part it off you get a clean part without worrying with the burr and it also works well to catch the piece when it comes free

[@joepie221]

As soon as the parting tool hits the threaded rod and stalls it, the rod will try to thread into the hole and blow the tool. It must securely bottom out before that has any chance of working.

[@Ghostwalker71]

@@joepie221 Sorry for not being more detailed in my post, I did forget to specify that you would only thread the rod just far enough that it would be tight in the threads and reach just past the point of parting to prevent what you pointed out. I also angle my parting tools leading edge so that they cut next to the piece being parted first to reduce the tendency of leaving burrs on the parted piece. This allows the piece of threaded rod left in the lathe piece to move away from the tool if it does rotate. I have never needed to bottom out the threaded rod in the hole and this would often not be possible when making multiple hinge parts out of a single threaded tube. Another thing to note is that the piece of threaded rod that is left in the material still in the lathe can be easily extracted with a opposite direction drill or similar tool. I would also like to add that I only suggest this method be used in soft metals such as gold, silver, copper and brass. Again, sorry for not being more clear.

[@noelmason2305]

Really great vid brother top skills 👍🏼

[@FredMiller]

I like it. I sometimes put a longitudinal angle on the vertical face of the parting tool so the part parts with no excess material on the back.

[@joepie221]

That works well with non-threaded holes. I haven't had much luck with the threaded ones.

[@rtkville]

Very good and informative thank you!

[@jayr1757]

Why does the tailstock look like it's not driving center when you're drilling? Does the attachment have slop or are you potentially boring a bigger hole at the start of the piece?

[@joepie221]

It has to be the chuck. Its super old. Plus, the chuck is being pushed with my fingers. The tailstock is not actually moving.

[@jayr1757]

​@@joepie221 I didn't get a good picture of what the throw was on the tailstock but I'll take your word it was drawn back. It looked like there was a decent bit of flex in that drill bit. And here I was thinking the weight of the tailstock barrel was bearing down on that little drill bit. Any way you could change out the chuck end on the attachment if it's got that bad a center?

[@joepie221]

@@jayr1757 Yes. dedicate a toolholder for your drilling operations. Fabricate, install and bore a block to hold your drill chuck. Put the boring head in a collet and line bore the block dead on. All you have to do is indicate the setup for the first use and you'll be golden. I did a video on this type of holder a while back. Skim through the videos.

[@jayr1757]

@@joepie221 I'll have to take a look, thanks Joe!

[@bruceanderson9461]

It might be helpful to use a spotting drill rather than a center drill to better match the taper of the drill as you start to drill?

[@lohikarhu734]

Nice... as always, good tips, sequence #looks# self-evident, when YOU do it ;-)

[@vincentmazza9221]

I definitely look forward to seeing the single point threading of an .080

[@joepie221]

Me too.

[@Bibibosh]

Ive always wondered if a milling machine can turn parts.

[@joepie221]

It can do simple OD turning if the tool is in the vise and the part is in the collet. Good trick to know in a pinch.

[@cojones8518]

Mount the part in a collet in the mill spindle and put the toolbit sideways in the vise and use the table as the carriage. Wouldn't recommend this for anything, but the simplest ops though like maybe a cir-clip groove on the end of a shaft or something, but in a pinch it could be done. I think it was Keith Fenner who showed how to do it a couple years ago.

[@deangiacopassi8757]

Good tips for my next project. Thanks.