Serger 101: How to maintain, prep, and use your serger sewing machine

It's that time of year when we are all sewing those sweater knits and cozy fabrics, so I thought I would share some of my basic serger tips.
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
02:35 Replace Serger Knives
06:44 Replace Serger Needles
07:36 How to Thread A Serger Sewing Machine
12:53 Finding the Right Tension on your Serger
_____
Products Mentioned:
Brother 1034D Serger amzn.to/33krJRF
HoneySew Serger Knives amzn.to/2rcfmZu
Serger Needle Threader amzn.to/36LXXay
Serger Mat: amzn.to/36CwI1W
_____
Please subscribe so you never miss an upload!
And, follow me on all my social to keep in touch in the mean time!
Instagram @InsidetheHem
/ insidethehem
Facebook /InsidetheHem
/ insidethehem
Twitter @insidethehem
/ insidethehem
Pinterest @insidethehem
/ insidethehem
Blog
insidethehem.com
-----
Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links in the video above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will add value to my viewers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”

[@susiesmeal4466]

Just a note here. Being a first time serger owner. It would be helpful to have the camera closer to the guts of the threading process when you are talking about needles and hooks and where you are threading. Hard to see what you are doing when camera is so far away.

[@Grammanonna1957]

Yes!

[@marrisartini5564]

Well i just ordered this serger and was scared of it, YOU have made this much simpler and easy to use. Not so scared now :) thank you

[@user-ft2vh4vp3i]

Thank you for this in-depth presentation. It helps me very much.

[@lesleymcneill1403]

I have been sewing for as long as I remember, but I’ve just been given a slightly used serger. I did not know it would be like learning to sew all over again. Thank you very much for this demonstration.

[@stickypawn]

So helpful. No small talk, just straight to the points! Thank you

[@nancypollard4531]

I feel that using canned air can push fibers into the machine. I much prefer to use a vacuum cleaner while I gently brush all the parts. I really appreciate your tension adjustment suggestions. That was really helpful to me. Thank you.

[@michaeltexeira6185]

You blowing the dust out

[@gumidtg]

I've cleaned a lot of sergers. You should not use canned air. Believe me, I'v seen the result ! There are som exceptions for BabyLock machines, where you can open the "door" and let the air/dust blow straight through the machine. Be careful! Use a vacuum cleaner instead!

[@rosiethornock4794]

You can also take the covers off the side opposite the knife (you first take off the stitch length selector lever, then the casing over that side) to clean from the opposite side. After a big project (or Christmas seeing season), I take off as many covers as I can to clean out everything. The first time I did it, I was shocked at how much lint had made it way far back into the machine.

[@louiselill1528]

Wow the Brother is so easy to thread than the two I have . Thank you Lindsey . I use a small brush and paint brush to clean mine

[@charlenejutras1595]

Great job, Lindsey, clear and concise! Thank you for sharing.

[@margaretphoenix8628]

Such a good introduction for a serger newbie! Thanks so much!

[@JanineKolasinski]

This was a super helpful video! I received a similar Brother model and was able to follow along. Looking forward to playing with the tensions to figure out the best settings for my needs.

[@nancylinnehan8765]

Thank you for a clear concise demonstration, I’ve been wanting to buy a serger for a while but know nothing about them. Still need more research on the machines themselves

[@NubianLockedPrincess]

Thank you so much! I just purchased a Brother 1034 DX. I never had a serger before. Thank you for making this video. It has helped me a lot.

[@InsidetheHem]

You are welcome!

[@canoneyes]

I am brand new to sewing, but since knit fabrics are my favorite, I was looking at different sergers this week online. This Brother model was one I was considering, but after watching your video I promptly ordered it from Amazon! 😁

[@laurastrele]

I have this as my first and I`m really happy. I see your comment is one year old. Hope you got it and get on with it well too

[@Grammanonna1957]

Canoneyes…how are you liking your Brother serger? Im thinking about getting this too!

[@laurastrele]

@@Grammanonna1957 been using my second hand one since April and it's been great. So easy to use.

[@lesliehickman5340]

Thank you I just bought that sewing machine. I watched videos that were not helpful at all of that. Yours was very helpful. Thank you thank you thank you.

[@kellyp6593]

Your tutorial was very informative. I don't currently own a serger, but I am thinking about getting one to bring my sewing to the next level.

[@InsidetheHem]

You won't regret it!

[@tonyak8848]

Thank you so much for this video. I've been told sergers are really hard to maintain and thread so i haven't purchased one yet, even though i really want one! You made it seem so easy to do. I know what I'm getting for Christmas!😁

[@InsidetheHem]

I was intimidated at first too. But it’s honestly no big deal!! Humans > machines! ;)

[@maureencullen1008]

This was brilliant.I don't have an overlocker as I thought they'd be too difficult to set up correctly,your vlog has made me rethink.thank you.

[@TheLongleggs027]

Thank you. Very informative!

[@sarahj6190]

Love your organiser box all labelled, given me fab idea will have to copy you ❤️ also thanks for this video as i am thinking of getting a serger for xmas for myself 😂😂

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi Lindsey! I just purchased this very serger. It's my first serger ever, and I found your video to be SO HELPFUL!! Can't thank you enough for sharing all this info! 🙌🙌🙌

[@InsidetheHem]

You are so welcome!

[@mechellewinslow65]

You make it look easy lol. I suppose after i learn, it will be easy for me too. I like the dust off idea!

[@mlm7598]

Excellent tutorial. I just got mine out after not using it for several years and I needed a refresher and this is perfect! Thank you so so much! Very excellent information! I will be sure to reference it again as a reminder if I have issues. :-)

[@susanshaffer7473]

I just got the brother pacesetter 2340CV, I’ve never had one before, so thank you for your videos! I need all the help I can get

[@michellehovanek3441]

Great video,, my serger always hated me! You make serger care easy! Much appreciated

[@starrngg1]

Hello Lindsey, My sister recently gave me an older Simplicity, with no instructions, or guidelines. I thought I could figurer it out kind of sort of, then I found your channel. My machine is similar in functions so I followed along every step of the way. I am threaded and ready to start creating. Thanks

[@InsidetheHem]

Omg! Amazing!!!

[@junderwood830]

Well, Lindsey, thank you so much. 71 years old and I have never changed a serger blade. I’ve always taken mine to a sewing repairman. Yes, I’m a total dummy...🤪

[@michaeltexeira6185]

You are smart. The screwdriver she used is not good. Will never hold the blades properly

[@acatladyiam3685]

Thank you for this tutorial. I plan to get this model or the DX model serger in the near future. I'll need to watch a few times to get the hang of it.

[@dianegould1696]

Clear and concise, thank you!!

[@ladylalaughlullalove4282]

Loved this! You were very helpful 😃 thanks!

[@bethysboutique]

This video saved my life! Thank you so much. And I totally feel you about daylight savings lol

[@nanastevens4094]

Well, that has allayed some of my fears. I was gifted a second hand serger and have never used it. That's it, today is the day.

[@InsidetheHem]

Yessss!!! Don’t be afraid of it!!!! You got this!

[@silviasaliva6948]

Well, I have the same serger and I'm a bit intimidated by her... but your video was sooo useful to me!! Thanks a lot for the clear instructions, I'll keep watching you 😊

[@InsidetheHem]

Aww. Thank you!! Glad it helped!

[@upriver7047]

Very helpful!! Thank you so much. I actually bought a serger and it's still in the box more than five years later. I've never seen one used so I had no clue where to begin. Can't wait to give it a try now!

[@InsidetheHem]

Oh my gosh!!! Get it out of that box!!!

[@upriver7047]

@@InsidetheHem LOL, I know! I cant believe I admitted it for the world to see. Hahaha!

[@mightymatt1725]

Excellent video!

[@sjoverbey]

Thank you. This is wonderful.

[@jacqpot9413]

Thanks for this very helpful video.

[@valeriepetersen3524]

Good instructions! Thanks!

[@annakinder8750]

Thank you I think I will get my serger back out and try again to thread it. I only had it almost 3 years.

[@InsidetheHem]

I also teach a serger basics class if you’re interested in live instruction. Email me if interested! Insidethehem at gmail.

[@kendal4452]

I liked this video, very helpful.

[@kelseyfaria4503]

Thank you thank you! Super clear and helpful! I got it on the first try :)

[@InsidetheHem]

Yahhh!

[@anjenettea6226]

Very helpful!

[@helenweatherby1694]

Really helpful. Thank you. x

[@robyn3349]

Thank you!

[@janinapink5495]

I just got my serger this morning so I’m subscribing to you! Hehe

[@InsidetheHem]

Yah! Congrats! I have a virtual class coming up next month if you need any help! Email me! Inside the hem at gmail!

[@josdiaz5295]

My husband bought me a serger about 4 months ago and about 4 days ago, I finally took it out of it's box and said I was going to use it. I started reading the instructions and looked at the serger... It was like trying to read chinese. I gave the serger a little look and it scared me because I couldn't even figure out how to thread it. So I put it back in it's box 😭. After watching this video, I think I can at least get the threading out of the way. Now I just need to figure out how to use it properly.

[@InsidetheHem]

You got this!!

[@susanzurales5206]

Thank you for this tutorial. Received this same serger 3 weeks ago and haven’t taken it out of the box yet! 🫤 I’m less nervous and feel more confident now.

[@MrsRebeccaSperry]

Great video. Thanks allot!

[@tommychapa6144]

Very helpful!! Ty!!

[@Dishcreator84]

Thanks just learn about the little hookie threads 💕

[@GrammaPatriot]

As far as removing any screws , I'd highly recommend having a good magnet lying under or nearby the screw...I took my sewing machine screw out one time and I thought by turning it upside down that it would easily fall out ...it didn't lol. That was the hardest part of the whole situation....took me almost four hours cuz it fell behind other hardware and got lodged. Thank you for this great video.

[@InsidetheHem]

GREAT tip!

[@julielanteri7584]

Great video! Thank you 👍

[@ChrisSmith-ye7vs]

Very good....cept, would be better if you shed some lighting where your hands are threading n would see into which needle you are threading. I enjoyed watching.

[@NatJ4reform]

Great thanks for doing this 👍👍👍

[@NatJ4reform]

🤣🤣 again my thanks, had the angled knife in the wrong way lol 😆😂

[@nickijaycox7773]

I just came across your video on how to use a serger. And I must say, i WAS thinking about getting one. But I think I’m gonna just stay with my sewing machine. This to me looked complicated 😮 with all the threads and setting all the tensions correctly. I would probably pull my hair out 😳. But thank you for sharing your wonderful video. ❤️

[@michaeltexeira6185]

Get a Janome. The best

[@nickijaycox7773]

@@michaeltexeira6185 Ok, thank you 😊

[@toniwilson3827]

I use universal sewing needles for all my sewing & machines

[@BJ7481]

Never use can air, it only blows the debris further into your machine and eventually you have a build up. (only professionals use it because they remove the entire cover off the machine) You can use a small vacuum cleaner to remove the debris.

[@sylviaanderson4294]

Thanks for this ‘refresher’ video! I see you have a cover stitch machine too. I am considering getting one so would like to know if you recommend the one you have?

[@InsidetheHem]

I only use it when I sew knits...which is not that often. But, when I do need it, I'm so glad I have it. It does make hemming look so nice!

[@campwisdom4312]

Can you tell me where to find the little hooky threader

[@vintagegirl68]

Thank you! I just bought my blades, it was past time!

[@andre1987eph]

I have a Singer ProFinish. I have to admit the stitches on your Brother 1034D

[@lindast.claire7410]

Hi there! Just got this machine and excited to use it. Please tell me what the little “hooky thing” is called, the thing you used to pull the threads back in. Thx.

[@InsidetheHem]

Yah for your new machine! It's called a Lil Hookey Serger Hook. There's a link in the description box. :)

[@emmasalyer874]

When I saw what this video was about I was excited as I own this same serger. One of the things I most wanted to see that you didn't address was where to oil and how often, however thank you for showing us how to change the blades and where to purchase them.

[@InsidetheHem]

Err...I've never oiled mine. Let me do my research and some practice and I'll report back!

[@2degucitas]

Thank you. I have a 3 cone serger and it sews wonky. Classes at the sewing business are $$$.

[@karinbperrott747]

Great video. I especially appreciate the part where you changed the blades.

[@jeanwalker3204]

Thank you for that show me how to do that tell me about your ironing board cover where did you get it at

[@InsidetheHem]

LOL. It's from Joann! I need to start linking it in the description box!

[@dianedavidson4844]

Excellent video. Just ordered a Serger and your video took away a lot of the jitters.

[@InsidetheHem]

You got this!!

[@leonakofoed289]

Thanks for this video. How often do blades need changed? Approximately how often does cleaning and maintenance happen? How often to change out needles?

[@InsidetheHem]

Blades probably once a year. I’ve gotten mine serviced once in the 5 years I’ve had it. I change needles almost every project because I’m using different fabrics! Hope that helps!

[@marykaren7542]

What about oiling? How often should you oil the machine?

[@rachaelhunt8268]

what is the tool you used to pull the tail back through on the finished hem?

[@InsidetheHem]

It’s called a “lil hookey”. Lol!

[@carogg8654]

Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I am wondering why you have two different sergers, which one do you like better? Why do you have a mat under them? they stick better to the table?

[@InsidetheHem]

The other one is a coverstitch! And yes. Mats help them stay out and reduce noise!

[@CM-xr7hd]

why my serger machine is only sewing with one needle? The number 2 neddle is off

[@rachaelb9164]

Very helpful. My friend just gave met her serger in exchange for childcare. I had no idea how to use it but wanted to learn how to make garments. What is the name of the little hooky thing?

[@InsidetheHem]

It’s literally called a Lil Hooky! Lol!

[@robinhatton5602]

Hello! Let me first say that I wish we lived close by so we could geek out on all things sewing together 😂 But I do have a question about sergers: I was given a serger about a year ago that had spent almost 20 years sitting in a closet it’s a husky lock 560ed- I immediately took it to the tune up shop. It worked ok for a while but later in the year I could not get 3 stitches in before threads would break or even a needle!! No matter what I do! Change needles, thread, clean it etc- so I took it for another tune up and I got through half a project before it went back to its usual M.O.. 😩 this is my first experience with a serger so idk if this is a common issue with sergers or if I just need to purchase myself a new serger.. 🤷🏽‍♀️ Iv done some research and the one you have (brother 1034) has great reviews and a great price tag! So my question is do you have a regular issue with threads/needle breakage?? Thanks!!

[@InsidetheHem]

I'll just say, I never have those issues. I've had my serger for more than 10 years, too. Either your service person doesn't know what they are doing, or she's a lost cause.

[@sheryllawrence6639]

Did the thread catcher come with your machine or did you purchase it seperately?

[@InsidetheHem]

Came with!

[@BrendaFaye]

In changing the blades: Does the straight blade go back in straight up or at a lower angle? Also, you mentioned in your video that you had a needle threader. Could you tell me where to get it?

[@InsidetheHem]

At an angle! And threaders are on Amazon!

[@user-hg3vp8wp6q]

How much is the cost of serger machines

[@livinglifegracefullee]

Hi, what kind of needles do you use? I just got a serger

[@InsidetheHem]

The needle depends on the fabric your using. Grab the needle guide from my site. It’s free. :)

[@cynthialindsley5117]

Was surprised to see you use canned air. Every machine dealer I have ever spoke to says canned air is ok for electronics but never any sewing machine/serger /cover stitch because of moving parts and motors. Use brushes and vacum has this changed? I have a sewing machine vacum and love it.

[@InsidetheHem]

Yea, yea. I've heard this too. But, I'm a rebel. LOL. I don't know for sure about this, but what I do know is that I've always used canned air and haven't had any maintenance issues.

[@danizg9081]

Can you use this sergers as normal sewing if you don’t want to use it as a serger?? I want one but I don’t want to have 2 sewing machines laying around and I don’t want to get rid of mine if I know I can’t use it as a normal sewing machine

[@InsidetheHem]

There are some things that you absolutely cannot do on a serger. If you only want one, get a sewing machine. They do have machines that do both but they are really clunky and I hear it’s difficult to change between them.

[@Vampkiki]

So how do you fix the plate if it comes off while sewing? (The little cover around loop 5 came off from vibrations while sewing it.) It isn't broken and i attempted to realign the hooks on the back with the openings in the machine and notta.

[@InsidetheHem]

Oh man. No idea. Sounds like you need to have it serviced.

[@Vampkiki]

@@InsidetheHem literally called up brother and they qere searching youtube for answers while i was on the phone. Think the clip on the thread looper cover was placed too low to keep it in place... aka defect. They are sending me to a local tech (who also never heard of it without it being broken sadly).

[@sarahj6190]

Ps do you buy expensive thread or unbranded??

[@InsidetheHem]

I buy sulky from Joann. Wawak has great prices on serger cones.

[@moorejazznow]

I was looking for little hookie and it is not referred to in your notes. Is that the correct spelling and name. I have had a serger for years, just now as using it. Thanks for all the informnation.

[@InsidetheHem]

It’s the lil hookey. You can find it on Nancy’s notions website.

[@louisejones3080]

So you used canned air to blow lots of dust and lint into the machine where you cant then get to clean!

[@bethpritchett]

My mom sent me a link for this machine, and the one thing we were seeing is that it's difficult to get maintenance on it. Has this been your experience, it is it simple enough to maintain yourself? Thanks! Very helpful video.

[@InsidetheHem]

I was able to get it serviced at my local sewing machine repair place no problem.

[@bethpritchett]

@@InsidetheHem thanks for your reply!

[@savingwithnadine3512]

So helpful, I am trying to figure out how to get my serger working right. My problem is I rethreaded it along withh you and it serged, (did a happy dance) but then I back my problem where it isn't stitching. I tightened the threads slowly but still nothing, can you help me please I'm newbie.

[@InsidetheHem]

It might need to be serviced.

[@savingwithnadine3512]

@@InsidetheHem I just bought it. I got it a few month now took it out the box excited to use it, first stitch was fine but second stitch nothing. Something happen when I watch your video, did the retreading with different threads, first stitch yea I'm excited but again second stitch nothing. I just bought it haven't get the chance the chance to serge anything yet😔

[@Grammanonna1957]

Such a good tutorial! Question….when you adjusted the tension, is there a particular reason why you only did the third dial and not all of them? Wouldnt you adjust all for the tension? Im going to use this video if I get this serger for Christmas…hoping Santa sees that i’ve been good all year 😂😂

[@InsidetheHem]

It depends. The third dial is the boss though. Most of your problems can be solved with it. And adjusting the others effects the third one. You gotta play around with them but for this fabric, just the third one did the trick.

[@jamiewormington733]

Can you make a video for thick fabric , Im trying too make prefold inserts that are really really thick

[@InsidetheHem]

Can you DM me on IG? Would like to know more about what's going wrong and what info you're looking for!

[@jamiewormington733]

@@InsidetheHem I don’t have instagram, but I bought some cotton and hemp to make inserts for cloth diapers , and by the time I get to fold it again and stitch it , it has 6 layers and my needles Always break 6 layers and under my needle is fine ? What size needle do I need for thick fabric

[@thelmawright2643]

I just purchased a stylist serger. I have watch a few videos and nothing has solved my problem. I know how to sew on a regular machine but not a serger. This serger looks like it may have been used for a demonstration because the needle are stuck down in the feed. The wheel only goes back and forth. How can I un jam this? Could the blade lock have something to do with this?

[@InsidetheHem]

I have no idea. Have you contacted the place that sold you the machine??

[@lesamontgomery1676]

Hello do you know how to troubleshoot a serger, I just purchased one and mine won't sew but cuts.

[@InsidetheHem]

I won’t be able to help other than the obvious like rethreading.

[@lesamontgomery1676]

@@InsidetheHem thank you

[@sarahanderson2456]

For someone just starting to learn. Only for altering clothing..i never sew a thing in my life.. Do you recommen a regular sewing machine or a surger ??..thanks

[@InsidetheHem]

You can’t sew on a serger. They are two very different things. Two different machines. Like a blender and a mixer in kitchen terms. Lol.

[@sarahanderson2456]

@@InsidetheHem I always thought a surgery was for hemming and taking in on the sides

[@Grammanonna1957]

What is the benefit of having a serger? Does it come with that little “hookie” gadget” for the end thread? And are you able to turn the blades “off” or does the fabric always get trimmed? Sorry…im a fairly new sewer and confused as to the primary purpose/benefit of owning a serger. Awesome video…thank you for being so clear!

[@InsidetheHem]

Serger finishes raw edges of fabric so they are pretty and don’t fray. Does not come with lil hooky. Yes. You can turn knives off with the flip of a switch. Hope this helps!

[@Grammanonna1957]

@@InsidetheHem thank you!

[@bethshuss]

I just got a new Brother 1034D Serger. Do I need both Universal and BallPoint needles? Included with the machine were both 80/12 and 90/14 sizes. Do I need both sizes?

[@InsidetheHem]

Yes. You need all the needles whether you have a serger or not. You should be switching out your needles based on the fabric not the machine.

[@woollyrover]

Thanks for this -- now I know how to change my blades! One question that I've never been clear about is how to position the fabric in the serger to make sure I get the seam allowance I need. Can you address this?

[@InsidetheHem]

For sure!!

[@kenthegreyadams]

When adjusting the tension, why was only one wheel adjusted? Did I miss something?

[@InsidetheHem]

You do one at a time. Each wheel adjusts something else.

[@kenthegreyadams]

@@InsidetheHem thank you!!

[@mariathompson9661]

Never use canned air! I was always told to brush out the lint or use a mini vacuum (like the ones to use on computers)

[@InsidetheHem]

I bet you also only use your fabric scissors on fabric, too, huh? hehe! I'm a rule breaker! Sometimes, finished is better than perfect!

[@happyhippiehomeschool]

I use canned air on mine too. 🤗 😬

[@bellaswan1459]

@@InsidetheHem it can rust your machine. Everyone knows for a reason not to use there sewing scissors for other uses. Its not a damn rule its to protect your equipment from costly repairs. Every person who fixs there machines are against it.

[@juliepedrazzi5680]

I want to open a swimwear small business and have never sewed before, I was looking into sergers-is this practical, or would it be impossible to learn on a serger? Be completely honest, thank you!

[@ShellyParchman]

Take a basic sewing class where they provide the machines and see if you even like sewing

[@InsidetheHem]

I think you could learn to sew on a serger first. Sure.

[@allendillon41]

Just so you know the Blades you have linked are for a different serger

[@InsidetheHem]

Uh oh! I’ll confirm and update the link.

[@carmensalome]

Thank you for showing how to replace the blades and needles. I got the same serger for Christmas two years ago and have yet to change the needles 😲. But now I will. Tell me about the black pad the serger is on. Is that so the machine does not move? My machine tends to dance across the table when I use it. Informative video. Thank you.

[@InsidetheHem]

Exactly. It also reduces some of the noise. It’s made just for sergers and sewing machines. I got it on amazon. I’ll add a link to the description box!

[@nylirama]

No to can air. It pushes dust into the machine, and it has moisture. Not good to put moisture into the parts.

[@mrswartsoff3116]

Why don’t you show how the thread sits,

[@InsidetheHem]

I’m not sure what you mean. Where it sits on the machine?!

[@eleana1239]

no one needs to do all this every time you start a new project - I have owned this same serger for 6 years and sew a lot I do it every couple of months it works perfectly... the same with the needles they last at least three bigger projects...