[SERVICE] Possibly The Roughest SEIKO 6139 Restoration? - PART 2

In this video I look over a very rough SEIKO 6139 chronograph. This is part two in the restoration story of this watch.
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[@michaelh.9794]

You make it look easy! Great Video, Thank You!

[@ajroy03]

Adrian thanks for this video, really nice to see this level of detail - would love to see the cleaning process and assembly!

[@hal0eight]

I have that on the to-do list. My cleaning machine is old but a technical marvel of 1970's electro-mechanical engineering. It all runs on giant cams and timers. I'll take the sides off and you'll be able to see it all run. As for assembly, I'll do that one day but find it difficult to get oiling right while running the camera and having little work space.

[@tods.9947]

Awesome video Adrian. This is giving me the confidence to try one myself soon.

[@hal0eight]

Go for it. The worst you can do is break it right?

[@BillMrWild]

Enjoyed your video, grubby Seiko indeed, a good idea to put back the 2 fine threaded screws takes seconds. Thanks for posting.

[@hal0eight]

I always put them in their own section in the parts tray specifically so they don't get mixed up. A few seconds there saves considerable time later going through boxes of screws or pulling things apart.

[@deegz]

Adrian. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!! I would love to work on one of these watches one day, have to muster up the courage :D Cheers man!!

[@hal0eight]

Go for it. Just start with a daggy one first.

[@a.aguilar]

Great video, thank you. Maybe I'll service one of these one day, so far I've only done 6119, 6309 and 70xx.

[@hal0eight]

Sounds good. They are pretty rewarding to work on.

[@hamishspencer]

Thanks for your great videos. I've heard Spencer Klein talk about the 'clutch' on these 6139s. He says the clutch gets more worn if you don't leave the chrono hand engaged (spinning). It would be great if you could show that part and explain if you think the central seconds hand should be left to run or not on a 6139. Cheers

[@hal0eight]

Will do. My take on it that it's mostly correct. Its not so much the clutch plates that are the issue, more so the clutch spring. When the system is engaged the spring is relaxed so it reduces the risk of it cracking. That said, most of the damaged wheels I've seen have been damaged by incorrect adjustment on the reset spring and/or dirty pusher seals. If the pusher seals are dirty and have hardened, the tendency is to push harder on them to start/stop the chrono. The down side is that it puts much more torque through the system. So I could argue that if serviced and adjusted properly, the risk is reasonably minimal that damage could occur. The other common mode of failure is a detached 4th wheel, which I think is related to the same issue. When servicing I usually weaken the reset spring as weak as possible without affecting the function.

[@hamishspencer]

@@hal0eight Thank you for the info