Servicing a slot car motor to improve performance (Super 16D Slot Stox) - Part 1

[@paulgrooveside2803]

This reminds me of the days in the BSL when I used to strip and rebuild these motors all the time, James.

[@billffromnh]

The Parma model for this motor is #502. It's 60T of 28 ga. on a .500" long stack. These are Parma's newest 16D design, but they first came to market about 30 years ago. These motors were sold until about 6-8 yrs. ago. Parma's older 16D designs had over & under brush springs.

[@CleaveTech]

Thank you Billffromnh. I have a few of the older style endbells with the “over and under” brush gear. The double overhead brush gear is just a bit easier to fit into chassis.

[@jtsinnett8691]

I've learned so much from watching your videos just love them please keep up the good work

[@CleaveTech]

Thank you for the kind words 😊

[@glene9986]

It's always a good idea to keep your end bell clean 👍

[@7732147]

One of you best videos to date James. Lots more like this please. I'm really keen to get started on servicing my own motors so this is a great start. More motor stuff please. Strap and GP12.

[@CleaveTech]

Thanks Ian. The same principles apply to Strap and G12 motors 👍🏻.

[@7732147]

James. I want to see how and where you put shunts. How you line up the armature bearings. Radiusing bushes etc etc

[@CleaveTech]

@@7732147 I have included a lot of that in the following videos. I have tried to show ways that these things can be done without having to use a lot of specialist tools, but some tools are essential 😁

[@waltersparks5271]

Great videos.thank you

[@mikeazeka1753]

Thanks for an interesting video!

[@DjMarcelinhoMG]

Agora sim...... Esse é o assunto que a iria te sugerir , a preparação de motores....

[@Fabio-ns4ql]

Should be able to get the S16D to scream if its been set up correctly. Lots of tricks you can use to get them to go way better than factory. We stopped using them in 2016 as they were getting harder and harder to source on a consistent basis.

[@glennirwin4710]

nice video.

[@marioaxuereb]

Hi Better start with a new adjustable timing S16D motor. Looks like this very old motor has received a trashing. This is one heavy can and new ones weight half that weight. Never heared any one repairing shafts that are worn or bent and only sultion I've experienced over plast 40 odd years is just get a new one. Have you a comm lathe, magnet zapper, motor aligment bars, can slugs, buzz bar, etc etc etc ( I'm sure youhave). Arm look long gone to me. I only know C and D can motors and thanks to you learnt alot on what I know as home slot cars etc. Love your videos. Yes a motor this old will hit every problem a motor could have and sure you will explain how to properly rebuild it. This will make a good practice motor in the end or on a home track but on a 8 lane commercial track I not so good. Instead of blu tack use a sonic cleaner cheap on Ebay. Iam from Sydney Australia and about a year ago lost the last commercial track and the closest is about 800klms away in Melbourne . Have so many tools laths, zapper, new cans, spares etc etc what a waste. One thing I do know that a properly blueprinted motor will be at least 25% more efficient. Waiting on next video PS those springs are shot and I have plenty different tension ones here just come over and pick them up.

[@CleaveTech]

Thanks for watching and commenting. I have a an ultrasonic cleaner but I wanted to concentrate on what people could do with minimal specialist tools. A com lathe is a must though! Shafts can definitely be repaired if you know the right people 😉. The motor is not having to perform on fast raceway style tracks. The tracks are small oval tracks and the tyres limit the grip available. It should be fine after a simple rebuild. Shame about tracks in your area. It can be hard to find premises in the UK as space is at a premium and rents are high.

[@marioaxuereb]

Yes I now understand why you choose this motor ( excellent choice for an educational video ) love watching your videos although I am ( was) into 12 and 20 wing cars. Keep up the good work

[@paulmenkens5997]

@@CleaveTech I've always sent my worn arms off to be turned down and rebalanced however an excellent racer I knew once told me that he did them himself by putting them in a drill and using a fine mill file on them as they turned. I never saw his exact method but it seems to have worked pretty well considering his excellent results, any ideas here?

[@hodaka1000]

You do know "Armchair Racer" and other places around Sydney ? I know they're more for 1/32 Scalextric type cars but the hoddy still exists in Sydney and you've got the real deal up at Lemon Tree Passage near Port Stevens with "Show Us Your Slots"

[@hodaka1000]

... and where are you ? So I can come over and pick up some of those springs

[@kevynbrownell719]

Plenty of electronic cleaner out there, probably better then that blue tac thing.

[@Slot_Racer]

You don't use an ultrasonic bath for cleaning?

[@CleaveTech]

I have used an ultrasonic cleaner on armatures in the past but have found that it can occasionally break down the epoxy and the wires become loose.

[@donwest5387]

I thought you already cleaned it with lighter fluid and a brush(?)

[@gregoryriga5929]

What could it be when the track can only power one car at a time ? Works fine with one but extremely slow or not working with 2. Also when I have both cars on it, only one controller can move both cars really slowly. Please need help

[@donwest5387]

looks like the hole in the pinion is over-sized

[@jedgilman3166]

Have a question. Can you brake in a super 16d the same way as the falcon motor in water

[@donwest5387]

ultrasonic cleaner!

[@slotripper]

Blu tac originally made by DAP.... Dayton , Ohio, USA.....