Set Front End Alignment on 1967 Mustang

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

Thank you!! Just overhauled my front end suspension. Not a lot of classic alignment shops out there.

[@bncinc2002]

Wow thank you for the step by step video. Very informative 👍

[@shannonvaughan4354]

I recently had the same issue at the alignment shop. My car is a 1967 mustang coupe with the shelby drop setup. I gave the the guy the specs I wanted and ended up with the factory specs. Thanks for the video.

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

You're welcome!

[@I_like_turtles_67]

Yeah. If it's a younger tech. He's probably going to go with whatever the computer tells him. Unfortunately, it's tough finding a regular shop that understands the difference.

[@hughphillips67Mustang]

Great video. One of the best in explanations actually. Only thing I wish you did differently is, you didn't show how to adjust your camber if it was off. Since yours was at 1.2, you left it. My 67 has negative camber on just the left side. And I am looking for how to adjust it. I'm thinking to just turn the bolt with the offset washer. (Don't know the technical name of it).

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

Ah, good point. Yes, that eccentric bolt (with the cam on each end) is used to set camber. Loosen it, then turn the head to move the lower arm in/out to change the camber angle. That cam bolt is notorious for not holding its position - and I eventually experienced that. So I purchased a camber lockout plate to permanently fix the position of that bolt. It was a bit of trial and error finding the right bolt hole to use - but now it won't change.

[@ray6976]

Just subscibed. I have a 68..and i never want it to see the inside of a shop.

[@justin1978]

That lift looks pretty handy. Does it raise the car up on it's own or how does it work? Very informative video btw, thanks for posting this

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

The lift needs a floor jack to raise it. Then it locks into place. Thanks!

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

One end of the lift retracts to the floor. You drive on it, then jack up the lower end using a regular floor jack. Once raised, you lock the tucked legs in place and lower the floor jack. It's very handy.

[@ramman97]

You don't have to be a member of mensa to figure that one out. One bolt sir! But thanks for speaking slowly Einstein for we public school attendees. LMFAO But I did find this video useful. Thank you.

[@adamtravismeinhardt]

Who makes the alignment gauge you were using for the caster and chamber I like how the level fits inside an actual cutout? I'm going to speculate that when you zero the level you're supposed to rotate the level 180 degrees on the second button press so that your reference surface doesn't have to be perfectly level. Best explanation of caster angle the simple description of what happens if you had 90 degree caster sealed the concept. Thanks!

[@adamtravismeinhardt]

I think I found it on Amazon: Longacre 52-78298 Digital C/C Gauge LargeDunlop Style 22in nevermind

[@puppygadget3189]

Did you have a factory lower control arm on this car before then put this tubular lower control arms on it? Curious if it felt any different? Stiffer after installing the tubular arms?

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

The aftermarket looked beefier than the stamped steel OEM piece, so I went with it. But doing so introduced bump steer as I guess the aftermarket piece follows a different arc than OEM. So I had to come up with a solution to bump steer. In retrospect, I probably should have stuck with the OEM lowers. And I couldn't pair the new lowers up with their mating uppers as the pairing lowered the car - and my tires already hit the fenders on aggressive bumps. Probably if I had gone Globalwest (that's the aftermarket lower brand) for both uppers and lowers, I wouldn't have introduced the bump steer issue.

[@puppygadget3189]

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Thank you very much for the information and video.

[@puppygadget3189]

Curious how you make sure on the toe if both sides are adjusted the same and one not in bit more than the other side, so they are even?

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

Toe really is just a difference in distance as measured at the front of the wheel vs at the rear of the wheel. The tires will orient themselves to the road when the car is moving - so there really isn't a way for one side to be more "toed" than the other. What happens, though, is you could end up with the steering wheel in a position that looks like you're turning when you're going straight. And that may be what you mean - the toe is correct but one side is adjusted more than the other which causes the steering wheel to no longer be centered. I had come up with an approach that got me close. I basically, before starting, marked on my lift with blue tape the extension of a long straight edge laid flat to the wheel - with the steering centered. I then used that to keep my steering centered as I made my toe adjustments. It got pretty close - but you may end up back under the car adjusting toe after taking it on the road - to center your steering. Just make sure you do the same number of turns to go in one side as you do to go out on the other - so you don't change the actual toe.

[@dulcepicocito]

Hello Brett, do you happen to know where can I get a set of strut rods like those on your car?

[@I_like_turtles_67]

They're global west. Mike Maier inc, Street or Track and Ride Tech also make adjustable lower arms. I personally like the Mike Maier set up the most.

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

Sorry. Just now saw this. Those strut rods are from Global West in CA.

[@lynnh7694]

What car lift is that.

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

I bought it many years ago and I don't remember exactly who made it - but I do think they are no longer available.

[@klupeeteable]

67 Mustang he says,, but under it its a total different car ... lol.. No my stangs don't have that stuff ,, it works almost the same but not really !!! lol..

[@bretthusselbaugh1198]

The components are different but the adjustments, in terms of how to set camber/caster/toe, are essentially the same. Camber is identical - even though the lower control arms are Global West (I've since gone back to stock). The eccentric adjustment of the lower control arm is identical to stock. Caster is the same in as much as you lengthen or shorten the strut rod to adjust caster. Stock has a nut in front of and behind the frame - adjusting those nuts in unison to lengthen or shorten the strut rod is the same in operation as adjusting the length of the Global West strut rods. Stock steering is a box, pitman arm, drag link, and inner/outer tie rod ends - but the toe adjustment is at the outer tie rod - so it's the same adjustment as the Flaming River rack/pinion.

[@klupeeteable]

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 yea it works the same only looks diverend.. mebe confuse the beginners . That's what I mend.