Behold! My new 3D Printer FINALLY!-but can I even use it?

[@InformatrIIcks]

quick tip : Dust is your worst enemy when 3d printing. it gets on your filament, and then block the small hole in your hotend and you get a clog, which can be a pain to clean. keep your filament in ziplock bags when not it use, and have it in a seperate room than all the woodworking shenanigans that happens at berm peak ! (don't keep it in an office though. even if it's mostly fine, you don't want to be breathing plastic melting fumes all day long)

[@DeffBaer]

i kinda think that what he was teasing at the end of the video is its own printing chamber, for reasons you have mentioned

[@SethsBikeHacks]

I actually did start doing this, but to keep moisture out. It's great to know there's another even better reason!

[@InformatrIIcks]

@@SethsBikeHacks moisture isn't really an issue with your typical plastics (PLA, PETG etc...) Huge issue with nylon for example. Still it's a good practice though

[@Sachiel235]

@@InformatrIIcks PLA will absolutely absorb moisture from the air. I use a food dehydrator if I'm using PLA that's over a year old.

[@InformatrIIcks]

@@Sachiel235 it does, but before it gets to amounts that are an issue to your prints you'll probably have finished the roll. Sure, if you live in a very humid area and/or keep your rolls for a very long time, it might become an issue, but for normal use in a normal place it generally isn't ...

[@jforrest2140]

Prusa is phenomenal. We have two at our office and they were bawked at by the naysayers but every print is flawless. Something to keep in mind, be sure that the direction of print is going to be strongest for the application..for example, if you are printing a clamp around a tube, every layer of the print should be the clamp shape that goes around the tube. once something is anchored, its more likely to fail at the bonding of each layer than it would be to rip the single layer apart. Just something to keep in mind when you think about how you're modeling or laying out the orientation of print. You can also remove the need for support structure if you use chamfers or gussets in some cases. 3D printers can incrementally print into unsupported space. For example, you can print a hole in a plate going vertically because you incrementally open and close the gap. You can also to come degree run a tap into parts if your hole has a large enough wall thickness. You could also just buy brass threaded inserts and heat them up with a soldering iron and push them into the plastic.

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

For the price, prusa mini, mk3s+ are overrated.

[@jforrest2140]

@@No0o0o0o0o0 I'd have to disagree. We had a lulzbot workhorse before and it was garbage. cheap bushings and awful construction. With Prusa, you are paying for higher quality components, 10's of thousands of R+D hours and their software...which if you ask me, is worth all the money. Depends what you're after I suppose! Plus, I mean..you get gummy bears with each purchase.

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

@@jforrest2140 I have to admit the gummy bears almost had me🤣

[@Sembazuru]

@@jforrest2140 To be fair... The software can be used on just about any consumer level FDM printer out there. But I also agree with you on the quality of the Prusa. I may be biased though... My first (and so far only) 3D printer is also a Prusa MK3. 😉

[@ash3423]

I Shaked hand with Mr. Prusa in 2018 at a 3d conference (back when we still shook hands) he's a great guy and started 3d printing as a trend when he open sourced his designs

[@nickmatney6605]

Looks great Seth! I do CAD for a living and live 15 minutes away from you. If you want or need to do some more advanced stuff and don't have the time, I'd love to help.

[@slimsqde7397]

what do you design? and how did you get into that career.

[@SteevyTable]

@@slimsqde7397 Not Nick, but I basically live in CAD. Mechanical engineer. Have designed everything from store fixtures to vehicles.

[@slimsqde7397]

@@SteevyTable how did you get into that career, im pretty interested in doing something like that

[@futsalkeegan]

@@slimsqde7397 i’m neither the two others, but i’m currently at a university studying mechanical engineering, have already done 2 internships in the field and will have job offers when i graduate. not the most affordable or quick route to CAD and design work but college gives a very solid foundation for understanding the science behind good mechanical design as opposed to a CAD certification or training which will just allow you to be a drafter for other engineers.

[@slimsqde7397]

@@futsalkeegan thats cool, thanks for the response, how did you get those internships? like how did you find those companies and stuff

[@3DPrintTechDesign]

Oh man, careful so you don’t get too excited about 3dprinting! You’ll end up designing stuff instead of riding 🤪. Love it! You did an amazing job introducing the start/journey most of us have going into 3dprinting. Well done!

[@chrisperrywv]

Dude- you have a great knack for 3d design. It’s definitely not easier to design than print- you just have a talent.

[@dibster7731]

i can’t explain how much i love these videos especially when i can’t go on a ride

[@snapped4433]

Oh man. Hope what ever happend gets better

[@torched80]

@@snapped4433 it's just raining.

[@steeki2518]

@@torched80 lol

[@aliens1990990]

​@@torched80 lmao you can still go riding if its raining -- get yourself a muc off jacket I got mine at a silly discount with then being on offer

[@jamestaylor5372]

Absolute perfect video for showcasing the capabilities of home scale 3D printing. Excellent work

[@sleepysnoot8881]

This is basically the reason I bought a 3D printer. I always followed channels around technology but they made it look so difficult. This was the first video I've seen where the subject (You) started the journey from the absolute beginning and made it look approachable. I did not regret my choice. Thank you Seth!

[@tims_builds]

Love 3d printers. And what you are doing is the definition of prototyping. You are using that printer exactly as intended (rapid prototyping) Keep it up. There is so much to learn about 3d printers, even just keeping it limited to the FDM style you have here (and there are so many other types) but keep learning and keep trying stuff!

[@outsidebrendan]

Love it Seth! As someone with a channel built around 3D printing for bikes I am SO stoked to see you dabbling in this.

[@SemiSendy]

Super slick!!! If I can get to a point in the future to take on something new, this is definitely top of the list. Thanks for making it feel more approachable 🤘

[@Hachiro]

Wooo! Finally! Another awesome free modeling software is Fusion 360. Way more advanced, allowing you to get into way more detail. But I still use TinkerCAD like 95% of the time, cause that’s all I really need for what I make xD Plus, Autodesk makes both of the two programs! So you can use the same account! (Models are not shared between programs) (Do note that Fusion 360 is only free for hobbyists / personal use. If you’re using it to make money, they have a commercial plan. I would think that if you just mention it and show a bit in a video, that it’s fine. So long as you’re not selling things you design in it. But please read up on that yourself, so you don’t get in trouble with them)

[@aaro_n]

I am so glad you got into making your own things right away!!! So excited

[@Evo_Spec]

Glad to see you finally bought one! There were so many times on the channel where I knew you'd absolutely love it because of how specific you like things to be. I think it's good that you went with a Prusa, I ended up going the Ender 3 v2 route and spent a good week tinkering things but I was prepared for that, for someone new who wants to figure out the 3d modeling side of things and not the printing side of things, it's definitely the right choice.

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

For the price he would have been better served with an Bambu lab X1 or X1C. Easier setup, 2-5xfaster prints, more variety of filament types, enclosed, larger build volume etc. Prusa has been riding the name and the models are showing its age.

[@BodieMoto]

I love that you post this on the main channel

[@Coyotewes14]

Haha Seth is slowly combining all my hobbies! Love it, Prusa is great 👍🏻

[@UnimpressedAussie]

As someone who has co-run a 3d printing business.. i am so glad you went with a prusa. Top choice!

[@dermax_hd]

You should really look into Filaments, depending on which one you use for a specific application it could be quite dangerous. PLA for example is great for prototyping, its cheap, easy to print and environmentally friendly. But its bad with heat, sun rays and pressure. could lead a stem spacer for example to slowly compress unter the tension from the stemcap and lead to a quite dangerous, unstable bike. You might want to use ABS or PETG for that then. Keep up the great content, loving the newer stuff :)

[@MrSatchelpack]

Your stem clamp bolts does the vast majority of holding the bars to the steer tube. If you've torqued your stem bolts properly, a properly torqued stem cap shouldn't even be able to move the stem; otherwise, your bars would move out of alignment.

[@dermax_hd]

@@MrSatchelpack yup. Holding the stem to the steerer. But the spacers are vital for clamping the fork and stem tightly to the frame and headset bearings. If your spacers get compressed, your steerer will shake around in the headset

[@MrSatchelpack]

@@dermax_hd Even if this were to happen, I fail to see how this is dangerous. When bearings go bad and there is slop, you replace them. It also doesn't mean you can no longer steer. To say that it is "quite dangerous" is a stretch.

[@dermax_hd]

@@MrSatchelpack It might be, depending on how severe the fail is yeah. fact is: plastic is less strong than carbon or alu, and if it were to fail catastrophically even stem spacers would be rather bad.. so thats a spot I wouldnt rely on in plastic.. for a CO2 cartridge holder, 3d printed plastic is just about perfect tho. plenty strong to hold such a small weight, and even if it does fail, it wont lead you to crash or something.

[@schwuzi]

The Prusa is a good choice. A bit pricey but really user friendly. While I prefer the cheaper options like the Ender 3, you can't beat the Prusa in reliability. I love tinkering and 'improving' my cheaper printer though.

[@CaptainNomae]

The Prusa MK3 line (MK3 MK3S MK3s+ etc) is pretty easy to mod. MihaiDesigns is probably one of the best examples of doing this with his PitStop 1 and PitStop 2 extruder replacements.

[@schwuzi]

@@CaptainNomae I know they are. They have a huge community. I just like to save money :)

[@Zach.O]

Ender 3 is shit

[@Obee270]

I’m so happy this day has finally come. I can’t wait to see what you make Seth!

[@povteer]

perfect for RC accessories and custom parts 😉

[@jpoulten]

Top tip, on Tinker CAD there’s a setting to adjust the smoothness of the curve on the circle, makes it look less like an octagon! 😉

[@Gremlin87]

I've never used tinker cad but was curious when I saw the resolution of his STLs. I might have to check it out.

[@chipper203]

Yup, came to make sure someone told him this.

[@milksponge00]

I love when my hobbies all seem to collide. Been printing for awhile have a couple Prusa's myself and was happy to see this video. Certainly made a good choice with the MK3s+, the thing is a work horse. Always enjoy the content you make, and interested to see where this takes you.

[@atchipmunk]

You made a great choice for your printer. People give Prusa crap about the higher cost for an older design, but the fact of the matter is that they just work, and work well right out of the box with about as minimal tinkering as possible (for a 3D printer). My first printer was one of the cheaper ones that was given to me as a Bday gift from my wife. Awesome gift, but the problem was that I spent more time tinkering with and tuning the printer than actually printing stuff...and the print quality was still mediocre at best. Picked up an older Prusa MK2S used and it's been SO much better. Better quality, better speed, and it just plain works. Loved the video though, and definitely looking forward to seeing what else you use it to make in the future...

[@willdupuis]

Welcome to the 3D printing club! I've had that printer for several years now and have been very happy with it. Great designs by the way!!

[@KieranAtkins]

Woah! I’ve been wanting a 3d printer for years and finally bought one last week and now you have one too! Coincidence? I think not! ❤

[@philip9776]

The 2 things I love the most in one Video: Bikes and 3d printing :D

[@bobross9846]

Couple of tips, I've been 3d printing for a while. Tinkercads great, but as you get better, making complex designs takes dramatically longer. Try onshape, it's a new and very different approach to design, but for your applications it's definitely worth it. Onshapes free, and browser based just like tinkercad. You can also eliminate the polygon like patter or cylindrical objects. If your not Interested that's completely fine. Last tip is with cylindrical objects in tinkercad, you can eliminate the polygon like pattern by increasing the amount of segments you have. You will find this in the same tab as group and ungroup. Have fun!

[@jevandezande]

Yeah, OnShape is the tool to use if you are Ok with your parts being public. It is incredibly easy to use and the built in versioning is super useful.

[@sidyoung2]

+1 for onshape

[@doxielain2231]

Fusion 360. Makes workflow easier too. It's a learning curve, but well worth it.

[@raphaelbrice2037]

Agreed. I use Onshape all the time. It takes a couple of days to get used to, but after that it's A LOT better than TinkerCAD. Worth the investment.

[@jerkyjones6944]

McMaster Carr has the stl and Solidworks files for 90% of its products. I 3d print tools hinges etc from there all the time.

[@JohnBrown-vo8dn]

I recommend making a 3d printer enclosure if you plan on printing filaments like nylon or abs etc. The enclosure will stop slight gusts of air from tampering with the part and looks cool. I recommend the ikea lack table enclosure. Also for print settings, I like using the honeycomb or 3d honeycomb.

[@jmsaltzman]

For sure! For those even too lazy for a Lack enclosure, I find that printing a shield can do a lot too, especially manually modeling one and having the slicer add another-- belt and suspenders ;) Cardboard box and photo light box can make good enclosures too!

[@KyleSantisi]

This is literally the best KZbin channel ever, watch it since I was a child

[@dougbrown7150]

The printer will come in incredibly useful with experience in use. The quick shot of your little one got a smile from me too

[@mikebrady7501]

Thanks Seth! I was on the fence on what printer to get and almost clicked on the Prusa a few days again. Love your videos and will be pulling the mountain bike down for some fall riding up here in WA state! Thanks again for all the great videos.

[@richcyclo2933]

There are sooooo many cycling youtubers doing their thing but I have found the best here and I'm actually mainly a road or Velodrome cyclist!

[@eitanpaster5692]

Here are some tips for 3d printing. Different filament types: Different materials print differently and are stronger/weaker. PLA is the most common and best for most things. It's strong enough but not that heat resistant. PETG is like PLA, a little harder to print well, but has a higher heat tolerance and is stronger. TPU is flexible 3d print filament. It I heard it is harder to print but I have no experience with it. ABS is very heat resistant and strong, but you need an exclosure to print it and it is very hard to print. Temperatures: The bed temperature is really important and changes based on the filament. The bed temp affects how well the prints stick to the plate that it prints on. 40-60 degrees is normal for PLA, but ABS and PETG can be around 80. The nozzle temperature is super important too. Too low and the filament won't go out, but too high and there will be stringing (when there are thin pieces of filament across points where the nozzle travels across) Retraction: The retraction setting helps improve the stringing. Retraction pulls the filament back during travels so it doesn't leak out of the nozzle and make thin pieces of plastic. A good retraction setting varies a lot based on the printer, temperature its being printed at, the material, and more. Fiddle with this setting to find a good one for what you are doing. Inkfill: Inkfill is what is in between the walls. You can change the percent to change how dense it is. The default inkfill shape is probably lines, but octet or cubic is best for durable builds with a infill percent around 40-80%. Layer hight: Layer hight changes the width of each layer. A 0.2mm layer hight is normal, with .16 being better for prints with more detail. Walls: Walls change the amount of outer layers that are solid on the print. 2 is normal but something around 4 is better for builds that need to be more durable. I hope you read this I spent like 20 min writing it.

[@thatoneguy274]

You said it was the closest thing to prototyping, but we call that rapid prototyping where you just quikcly and cheaply manufacture parts to see if the concept works before spending money on the full build, awesome stuff!

[@zeprahzzz]

Love that you jumped straight into CAD modeling. Me? I spent weeks printing plastic boats and knick-knacks. Fusion 360 is a big boy CAD software that has free a "hobby" license so you could look into that if Tinkercad isn't cutting it anymore.

[@Hachiro]

I still use TinkerCAD for like 95% of my modeling xD Most of the things I need to design, are just fine with low-poly methods. But when I need something more complex, F360 is my go to.

[@aaritbabu3398]

Hi Seth, I was actually super excited to watch this video when I found out you got a Prusa 3D printer. I actually have 5 of these exact same printers and I can tell you that you aren't going to find ones any better for that price. These printers work amazing and I'm super happy you chose Prusa because their customer service is great too. A couple of few for you, if you plan on making parts that are actually going to live on the bike, I REALLY recommend using ASB filament. It's just a little bit harder to print, but it's way stronger. Also, when printing towers like the original CO2 holder, you should use a ~2mm brim instead of supports, and that will prevent your tower from falling over. Also, TinkerCAD is a great software for making 3D models, especially when you're new to it, but to prevent the jagged edges on all of the cylinders you created, you can go to the options once you drop in your cylinder, and increase the number of sides to make it much smoother and closer to an actual cylinder. Anyway, glad you bought a Prusa 3D printer and I hope you have a lot of fun with it!

[@nathantebbens634]

It's so cool to see you learning 3D printing! It's one of my favourite hobbies

[@gradyluyt6998]

I’ve had the same printer for 2 years and absolutely love it. It’s been dead on reliable say for some adhesion issues with PLA but I almost always use PETG so it doesn’t really matter. Your cad program of choice will be open on your computer for the next 6 months as every problem you encounter will be solved with 3d printing.

[@jeromemarie4770]

That's a game changer tools for evryday day tinkering. It boosted creativity for lot's of us. Love your video.

[@emusp]

Tip. In thinkercad you can increase the cylinder resolution to get smooth round cylinder when printing.

[@1_CLR]

Came here to say this. Increase the "Sides" slider. No idea why they still have it defaulted so low, computers these days can easily handle modeling more facets. lol

[@MrAnimal1971]

Lovin the fabricobbeling.

[@FAB1150]

Man, welcome to the club! It definitely is addictive to start making your own things, haha 3D printers are amazing at solving those very specific problems that you can't find in forums. Whip up a part, wait a few hours, and you're happy! Prusas are truly amazing workhorses. You won't be disappointed!

[@NUeB_net]

09:30 If you want parts to be stronger, use "lower resolution" i. e. thicker layer height. Layer adhesion is the weak point in FDM printed parts, less layers mean stronger parts. And use the right filament for mechanical stressed parts: PETG is good for many, for others you may need ASA or Nylon. - Or even one of those fiber enforced, but then you also need a different nozzle. HAPPY PRINTING, SETH!

[@minozemstan]

That's not true at all. CNC Kitchen made a thorough test and a video about it (called "Which LAYER HEIGHT gives you the STRONGEST 3D prints?"). Have a look for yourself, but the actual conclusion is that printing at a layer height bigger than one half of the diameter of your nozzle will reduce layer adhesion significantly.

[@NUeB_net]

@@minozemstan Well, but "finer is stronger" ist still wrong. ;) I have a 0.4 nozzle and in a part test (PETG) w/ shearing force, 0.3 layer height won over 0.2. YMMV

[@raymondelder5004]

you could also print in ABS and smooth it with acetone, which also improves structural durability. I highly recommend the KZbin channel CNC Kitchen; he goes in depth into strength.

[@minozemstan]

@@NUeB_net Interesting. Did you increase nozzle temp to account for higher flow rate for 0.3mm print or was the temp the same during the whole test?

[@pooounderscoreman]

Line width, perimiters, dryness and temperature are more important than layer height for strength.

[@dericknewton9552]

I've been 3d printing for 2 years and can say it's more complicated than it looks but when you get the hang of it, It's the best. I use cura 5 for all my prints and it's 100% my favorite slicer I've ever used

[@raymondelder5004]

Prusaslicer is also really good, especially with recent updates.

[@niccsaramin7241]

I have been studying 3d design in school for a couple of years now and still for 2 more, really love this field of study

[@CyberNacho]

Solid choice! Look forward to more prints on your channel!

[@The_GreenMachine]

welcome to the 3D printing club! the Prusa is awesome, been loving mine ever since i got it in 2019!

[@whitmankwok1034]

Congrats - 3D printing is the gift that keeps on giving.

[@alexbarker7511]

Seth. You’ve ruined bikes for me 😂 I only just found out that everything is a cylinder. Thanks mate. Love your videos. Keep them coming. ❤

[@rosserobertolli]

This is awesome! I designed and printed my grips from flexible material with internal ventilation/moisture channels. They are great and highly durable! Oh, and props for the steep learning curve! TinkerCad is awesome and you can also use it for your crawlers

[@davidbinenfeld489]

Did u post the model anywhere?

[@ride6884]

This video was actually really cool, It's so cool how much Berm Peak (Seth's Bike Hacks) has grown!

[@Simplified_Engineering_]

Welcome to the community Seth like to see what you do with the printer.

[@TheEvilVargon]

Hey Seth! I just wanted to give you a tip that you shouldn't be using PLA for most bike parts. The orange spool you got is PETG and that's perfect. There are two reasons for PLA not being ideal for bikes, and that PETG works much better for. 1. It deforms during constant stress. If you imagine a shelf L bracket, that would sag over time with PLA. Same goes for things that are clamped on or especially friction fit. After a while they'll stretch and no longer fit. 2. It becomes soft in high heats. On a hot summer day, your PLA parts will bend and deform before your bike makes it to the trail head. Around 60-70 degrees Celsius is where it becomes really soft, which the surface on a bike in the sun might hit. PETG is difficult to print with, though you have a great printer for it. The default PETG profile is probably fine but print slow, print hot, and don't use the cooling fan. PETG is thick and viscous compared to the silver PLA you've been printing with. You might get a lot of stringing but you can do some pathing changes like avoiding perimeters on retraction to reduce it. Happy printing!

[@fried86]

Finally one of us, Mountainbikes and 3D Printers, perfect combination!

[@BobRides]

Seeing the successful Czech company on your channel warms my heart.

[@davidleonard8890]

Hi Seth, Love your videos! And love that you are already enjoying your printer! It looks like your parts might benefit from refining the angular tolerance when you export them (presumably to stl files?). Essentially your cylinders look like they have facets rather than being round. I'd even guess they have 36 faces because your CAD software is probably placing a corner after every 10 degrees of curvature on the round surfaces. Fixing this may help with things like the fit around your CO2 canister. Depending on the CAD software you're using, there's probably a box in the export window. You can set and forget this at 1 degree, your parts will be super round forever! Looking forward to seeing the next creations!

[@TheSpooniest]

Congrats on your new bundle of joy!

[@dude_chilax]

Hey, So happy to see one of my favortie channels getting into another favorite hobby of mine, I always loved your videos, and now i like them even more! Also you got the same printer that i have. You wennt the easy way and got it pre built lol. I had to build it myself. But it's a great printer, and you made a good choice. I hope to see more videos about it in the future.

[@MrDaehtop420]

That's a great machine. It is a work horse! Give it love and it will treat you right!. Nice job

[@Kleinholz235]

Prusa was a very good choice! More printing less careing! Nice to see ideas for bikes 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@brimmed]

i'm impressed that 3d printers have enough resolution that you can actually thread something on. i've always wanted to 3d print a mount for my phone. i sit in traffic a lot on my commute, and want to put my phone in the gap above my steering wheel so i can scrub through a video. i'm mainly just listening to the audio but i use the visual to know what part i'm scrubbing to

[@pedromesasalcover3905]

Hello from Spain, thank you very much for adding the subtitles in Spanish, if I already liked your channel before, now I will enjoy it much more. By the way, I am using the Google translator.😂😂

[@BenNawrath]

Great video! Most of my experience with a 3D printer is using one at work as a mechanical engineer. So I haven't used Kindercad or whatever. But I can tell you if I had one at home I'd probably be doing just what you're doing. Make a low-res proof of concept, then make a nice one. (PS you can literally bondo/sand/paint prints if you want a smooth surface). An area we used them a lot for at work was jigs an fixtures, which I could see being beneficial for you. For instance, you can make a hexagonal recess! Basically impossible to machine... but we would make a base with a couple holes in it and hex recesses on the back. Shove a nut in the recess, and bolt a toggle clamp or something to the top thru the holes. Done. Perfect fixture for drilling or milling a part or whatever. You could make some sweet tools with it as well as parts!

[@lukasm2810]

What I would recommend to you (I don't think anyone here has written it already) is to buy a 3DLAC or something similar, it helps with bed adhesion. I had problems with adhesion, and since I started using it, this problem no longer exists. Next, I would buy different sheets. I recommend the original Prusa satin sheet if you want to maintain a smooth surface, plus all materials which I printed on it, were very well printable in combination with 3DLAC (The smooth sheet is easily scratchable). And one more thing, sometimes the material can contain too much moisture and this will most often cause stringing. To prevent this, you can dry the filament, or what is probably the best way is to buy/build an enclosure where the filament will be hidden inside the chamber (such as the original enclosure from Prusa, or you can build a similar one as a project into the future).

[@davidwallis6765]

It's entertaining to watch you, Seth, learn about 3d printing and CAD

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Woohoo! Welcome to the 3D Printing fam 🙌🏼🙂

[@Wraith-Kryptos]

I saw the thumbnail and i was like " wait is this a thomas sanladerer video? Or cnc kitchen?" Then i saw berm peak and was like omgomgomg and btw, your cartridge holder looks nice. Way nicer than my first model

[@devinredus2313]

I'm stoked to see what the 3d printer brings for the rc content!

[@mtootm]

You being a content creator, I agree with your choice to get a Prusa i3 printer. My own i3 MK2S has been great for the last few years. I would like to recommend that you grab a Raspberry Pi and look at running some software like OctoPrint. it will allow you to wirelessly control your printer from anywhere in the house. With an attached webcam you can remote monitor prints for failures. With the proper setup of a reverse proxy you could even access the printer from anywhere in the world. OctoPrint is super simple to setup. Use something like Belena Etcher to install OctoPrint on an SD card, plug the SD card into the Pi, plug the printer into the Pi, power on, go to the web portal by accessing the IP address of the Pi, just follow the instructions to add your printer to the software.

[@derekatkinsonguitar]

Glad to welcome you to the 3d printing community :)

[@ryanwebster2167]

welcome to the 3D club! awesome to see tinker cad, i love using that for quick simple designs!

[@bryceridesbikes]

Beyond printing mounts my second favorite use for my 3d printer is to print tools for around the shop. Need something to hold your stem in the bike while your fork is off for service no problem.

[@jamestucker4886]

If you start running software upgrades like klliper and a few hardware things like a all metal hot end and a heated enclosure you can print Carbon fiber nylon which will be the the most useable filament for bikes, through klliper you can also run octo print for remote printing and easy monitoring.

[@pillo1000]

Bro Finally!!! Great Seth!!! Congrats on your new equipment!

[@mikeshemonski7491]

chainring-bolt spacers are perfect to put between the inflater and the co2 cartridge. You can thread them together with no risk of puncturing and it keeps the inflator more secure.

[@Henry_Stewart125]

Allways a great day when Seth uploads

[@andynegron5376]

Honestly the ender 3 v2 is a pretty good 3d printer for the fraction of the price, I got one on amazon for about $180 and I have had it for a long time. It prints like crazy and is one of the best that I have had. Personally blender is much more professional if you want to get more accurate and precise 3d modeling and in my opinion Cura is the best slicing software out there (in my opinion). Just a few pointers 😁. Also there are many reddit communities if you would like help and tips on how to improve. Hope this has helped😆

[@arturiskrzycki9726]

We just got a similar one in school last thursday. Cant wait to use it

[@tonnykorytak3604]

Hello, I have been using this Prusa model for almost a year and it is fantastic, for hobby prints it is enough. I can recommend building enclosure from IKEA LACK tables for more specific prints. Try as many filament types as you can, each one has different characteristics and advantages. I am using SolidWorks, it is not for free, but it is really good peice of software for professional application. If you want to make something stronger, try to increase your infill, increase the number of perimetres and decrese the layer height. Also keep in mind how the object is printed. The object could be stronger if you place it differently, so it won't brake in the layer. Happy printing !!

[@InfiniteCraftsman]

Excellent! I’ve got 4 Prusa Minis (and some other printers). Prusa slicer is simply the easiest and best slicer I’ve used. Couple tips: 1. Higher resolution doesn’t usually mean stronger prints. The thicker the layer, the fewer layers there are reducing the adhesion failure rate. Also, thicker layers squish and adhere better. 2. I’m impressed you picked up tinker cad so quickly. There is a free version of fusion 360. Follow Lars Christiansons 3 part beginner series and you’ll be off and running with a better software. 3. You’re killing it! You’re getting into all my hobbies and I love it!!! RC and 3D product design and printing!

[@whynotbuildit]

Modest Opinion---- PRUSA's are triple the cost of what they should even be close to costing, pretty outdated controllers and no enclosure. SV06 is literally the same thing and the sold it for 199 lmaoo

[@jonathanzj620]

I originally bought an Ender 3 and after about 48 hours of actual tinkering time and not being able to get a successful print I gave up and bought a prusa. Well worth it and very happy.

[@Goatee_yay]

I'm really impressed you did so well so fast. CAD, 3DP, and 3D Scanning is my career.

[@schwuzi]

Give your parts some tolerance. For instance if you have a hole or thread you want to print, make it 0.2mm larger in diameter so your parts don't bind and you get a nice fit.

[@Lizlodude]

So much fun to see some one else experience that progressions of "Neat I can make a thing. I wonder if it was different... Oh I can make it different!"

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

The the amount you spent you should have gotten a Bambu Lab X1carbon. It's 2-5x faster. Can print exotic materials due to having an enclosure. Faster, larger build volume, accurate, Lidar, auto bed leveling, around the same price. I fully assembled prusa mk3s+ is $1100 the bambu lab is $1000 for the x1 or 1200 for the X1carbon with a hardened steel nozzle, camera for monitoring, timelapse, side blower fan and the ability to added a multi material addon. ($1450)

[@Wynner3]

This rekindled my interest in 3D printers. I'm sure I can find many uses around the house, car, and photography bag.

[@GROGU123]

If you happen to live near a Microcenter, I really like INLAND TOUGH PLA, it's awesome!!!! Not brittle and it's really strong. It also prints really easily. I just wish I bought a dual extruder unit so I can print the supports at the same time with water dissolvable filament. That way, all you have to do is put your print into a water bucket and wait for it to dissolve the supports.

[@maxtsarenko9802]

Good choice on the mk3s

[@davecoen8824]

Ive got a Prusa MK3s as well, you cant go wrong.. they just WORK!

[@PabzRoz]

Lol it's fun to watch new people get into 3D printing. Been into the hobby for a few years now. Have some Prusas and Enders. Looking into getting a good resin printer now.

[@same1eka]

10:27 these little clips are the reason I subscribed

[@NoHairRedBeard]

Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for your content. I've watched so many videos in the last two weeks, it's great. You're a large part of why im getting into mountain biking now at 28, husband and father to two kids. I rode Park when I was younger, had a S&M LTF with all the goodies. Got the mountain biking idea from coworkers at my new job, in a new state I moved to. Researched and ended up watching a few of your videos, thought about getting the Trouvelle* off your recommendation. Ended up finding a 2021 GT Avalanche Black Edition(I think its called) With some work, nice bars, grips, saddle. Looking for a bike for my wife now too, so we can ride the trails together on weekends. So anyway, now that I wrote a story, thank you for helping inspire us. I cant wait to save money and upgrade little by little. Dropper post and 1× conversion going to be the first things.

[@mishmasta]

I mentioned you should get a printer in a comment to your wireless dropper post video a couple of months back. So, I feel partially responsible for this, and I couldn't be more proud! Haha. Wait until you start making parts for your RCs, printing random doodads for around the house, fixing things that don't have replacement parts...the list is endless. A 3D printer is a blessing and a curse.

[@bradweaver6124]

Glad to see you went with the Prusa! As you said, it just works and they're the ones all the "cheaper" versions are copying.

[@custer175]

Extremely clever ideas seth!

[@SherazChoudhary]

Impressed! You learnt a lot in a couple days! I love Prusa 😀 I love designing bike parts. But also check online 3D prints libraries before designing yourself (someone super talented might have already made the part). One caution once you start making parts from Nylon, PTE, Carbon, etc make sure to have an enclosure and good ventilation. PLA is less toxic and easy to use but it's less durable and strong.

[@benjamingrace2879]

If you need it made out of metal and investment casting place may be able to help. With their help you should be able to turn that into a shell and then have them pour metal in the same shape. It's not good at casting cylinders but for things without voids it's pretty simple. Love the vids !

[@vsd1988]

omg yes! so much cool things to print for a bike! on of the first things i printed was a mudflap & wheel air cap's